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The Traveller edit: What the editors are loving right now

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Right now we're making the most of London's best restaurants and London's best bars , taking UK staycations and taking advantage of restrictions easing abroad. Here, the editors of Condé Nast Traveller share what they're up to at the moment.

23 August 2024

August 2024

Sarah Allard, digital director

Where I’m eating

Spending most of August in London means one thing: finally getting around to ticking a few restaurants off my ever-growing bucket list. And the month couldn’t have started stronger, with martinis straight from The Connaught Bar ’s famous trolley, followed by dinner at The Grill . We tucked into starters of homemade scotch eggs and scallops dripping in seaweed butter, mains of charred pink beam and perfectly-roasted chicken, and ended the night with sticky crepes suzette flambéed tableside. Next up was dinner at Ria’s , a charming neighbourhood pizzeria and wine bar in Notting Hill. Pizzas here come Detroit-style – prepare for deep, pillowy, cheesy slices with a crisp base, and don’t skip a side of the fried potatoes with garlic-infused whipped feta.

The final spot for this month is Leo’s in Clapton – an Italian(ish) restaurant in a retro, pastel-hued cafe on the Chatsworth Road. The menu, devised by chef Giuseppe Belvedere (formally Bright), is full of Sardinian-inspired pastas and grilled meats and fish. Although it’s the tiramisu that’s really calling me – soaked in their house coffee and topped with a thick layer of crème anglaise.

What I’m buying

I’m starting to think about my transitional wardrobe, so planning purchases that can work for late summer into autumn is key. I’ve been eyeing up a pair of  Birkenstock clogs  for a while – they’ll be perfect for any last-minute beach holidays but still look chic with socks back home once the weather begins to turn. I feel like woven bags are everywhere I turn, and this one from Jigsaw looks like the perfect size to fit the many items I deem necessary to carry day-to-day inside.

I’ve been loving Hush recently, especially this belt – a clever dupe of the cult Khaite version. White jeans are an absolute wardrobe staple, and this pair would go perfectly with so many items I own, while this black maxi skirt will be great paired with t-shirts in the summer and a jumper come winter. Finally, a makeup bag refresh is definitely in order, so I’m going to restock with some Merit bits I’ve been wanting to try. Their flush balm receives rave reviews, while the minimalist complexion stick and brush will be super handy for my travels.

Where I’m going

This month I had my very first medi-spa experience, at Lanserhof Tegernsee . Forgoing alcohol, coffee, sugar, dairy (and just about everything I love!) was made a whole lot easier thanks to the setting, with beautiful Bavarian countryside as far as the eye can see. The focus is very much on gut health, the idea being that our wellbeing all stems from a healthy gut. Alongside adopting a stripped-back diet, I learnt a lot about the importance of not only what we eat but when we eat and how we eat it. The treatments and activities were a welcome distraction from any initial hunger pangs, from relaxing therapeutic massages to hillside hikes with llamas!

It also helped that I have a break in Greece to look forward to; my first stop is Santorini, for a stay at Andronis Boutique Hotel . Perched on the rugged cliffs of Oia overlooking the Aegean Sea, there couldn’t be a better place for taking in those famous Santorini sunsets. Then I’ll be hopping on a ferry over to Paros to check out Cove Paros – a small, female-run hotel right on the beach. With an all-day beach bar and a brand-new spa, it promises to be the perfect spot to unwind. I can’t wait for a week of sun, sea and tzatziki!

Charley Ward, commerce writer

Where I’ve been

I’ve had a bit of a whirlwind summer. I’ve been ticking some restaurants off my to-visit list in London, heading to Stanley’s in Chelsea for al fresco British small plates (although it was the cocktails that stole the show) and a truly impressive Colombian tasting menu at Abajo , the new concept space downstairs at buzzy woodfired restaurant Humo. A must-try for barbecue fans. I spent a weekend feasting, dancing and laughing at Wilderness festival in July , hosted by the lovely team at IHG Hotels, which returned with its Hotel in the Wild activation for the second time in 2024. If you’ve booked tickets for next year, it’s well worth spending an hour or so inside – it’s a kaleidoscope of colour and texture, with plenty of comfy sofas, tasty cocktails and its own entertainment schedule to help you recoup after a heavy night. We were treated to tarot readings and surprise sets by beatboxer Kimmy Beatbox and spoken-word artist Sophia Thakur while we were there. Bleary-eyed, I headed straight from the festival site to catch the Eurostar to Paris , as I had some hot tickets for the Olympics. It was my first time watching a basketball game (commiserations to Greece, who were narrowly beaten by Germany) and we also caught some of the athletics. No, I didn’t see Team GB win any golds, but we bagged two silvers – including one nail-biting photo finish. It was a privilege to watch the athletes at work.

I have a few exciting trips lined up from now until the end of September. Firstly, I’m dusting off my riding hat and heading off on a five-day trek across the Icelandic countryside on horseback. We will be covering at least 30km per day, and will be joined on our quest by around 50 wild horses every day – my inner child can’t believe her luck. I’ve loved Iceland ever since I spent three months working at a magazine there around seven years ago, so I’m thrilled to be returning. I’m trying not to think about how rusty my riding skills are – it’s been over a decade since I’ve spent any meaningful time in the saddle. After that, I’m off to Santorini to decompress for a long weekend at dreamy boutique hotel Canaves Ena – you’ll find me poolside all weekend – before rounding off the summer with another long weekend at Hyde’s new opening in Bodrum . This hotel has a good party scene, so I’m looking forward to a last hurrah before we say goodbye to the summer for another year.

What I’m packing

My packing lists for my upcoming trips are a curious mix of bikinis and wet weather gear. I’ll need new sundresses for Bodrum and Santorini – Nobody’s Child always comes through with the most flattering-yet-comfy cuts – and I’m looking forward to finally use my new Stone & Mason beach bag , too. However, in a swift about face, I’m preparing for the worst in Iceland, with its notoriously wet and unpredictable weather. I’m packing my new Peak Performance waterproof coat and some thermal layers. I like these long sleeved tops from Uniqlo, which are a bit more stylish than your average, so I can repurpose them when I’m not cavorting across a volcano on horseback. I’ll be packing all of my gear into my new Carl Friedrik Core carry-on – I absolutely love this case, I think it’s one of the most stylish cabin bags I’ve seen.

Connor Sturges, digital assistant

I’ve been a bit slow at ticking off bucket list eats recently, having recently swapped restaurants for street food markets and beer gardens thanks to the pleasant temperatures. However, I’ve made exceptions and been fortunate enough to tick a few more off my list – which continues to grow at an alarming speed. On a drizzly summer’s night, a friend and I enjoyed one of the best Indian feasts we’ve had in a very long time at Kutir . We devoured juicy prawns and mopped up pools of fragrant curry with freshly baked bread in an unsuspecting Georgian townhouse and put the world to rights before sheltering from the rain and people-watching on Sloane Square. I also finally made it to Bancone , the buzzy Michelin Bib Gourmand pasta spot in Covent Garden . I’ve had plans to visit multiple times over the years and, for some reason or another, have never made it through the doors. Luckily, it didn’t disappoint. Over lunch, we mopped up dollops of plump burrata with bouncy focaccia before diving into a generous portion of spicy pork and nduja ragù mafalde – a playful pasta shape that I must source during the upcoming autumn stockpile. I’ll return very soon with an eye on the signature silk handkerchiefs in walnut butter with a confit egg yolk.

Then, there’s been the treats. A recent delivery of Borough 22 doughnuts certainly lifted the mood in the office, as did a spread of wholesome goodies from Lebanese bakery Common Breads . The doughnuts are vegan, gluten-free, and free of all major allergens – lacking in taste, they’re not.

After a semi-disastrous festival experience in summer 2023 (think Shrek’s swamp), my experiences this summer have restored my faith. Firstly, there was my first Glastonbury . After years of trying to secure coveted tickets, luck was finally on our side, and we spent a glorious long weekend dancing all day and all night. Collapsing on an airbed in the early hours of the morning before waking up a few hours later to the sound of Joe Wicks was one of this summer’s most unexpected (and confusing) twists. Day festivals are also very much on the 2025 agenda after unforgettable days at Hyde Park British Summer Time , seeing Robbie Williams and Kylie, and a glorious day at All Points East in Victoria Park.

In another first, I attended Wilderness Festival as a guest of Champagne house Veuve Cliquot . Far from the regular experience of dusty sleeping bags and biscuits for breakfast, the team hosted us in a luxurious tipi – complete with uber-comfy beds. We experienced all that “Britain’s fanciest festival” had to offer, from stand-up comedy to banquet suppers with Andi Oliver and sets from the likes of Jessie Ware and BICEP. Ahead of the festival, the team sent a Cliquot Cooler – a head-turning addition to any picnic set-up that keeps fizz at optimum temperature for up to two hours. However, there was no need to keep bottles of their Yellow Label chilled on the go at Wilderness; the hospitable team ensured our glasses were never any less than half-full in the Veuve Clicquot Champagne Garden .

As a committed sun worshipper, the approach of autumn fills me with a slight sense of dread. I’ve enjoyed the recent sunshine and warmth in the capital but, as the temperatures drop, you’ll find me at the airport in a desperate attempt to extend the summer. First stop, Ibiza . I’ll be checking into a couple of hotels; a laid-back spot in the middle of the island, followed by a beachside hideout in Cala Llonga – a resort adored by families but great for accessing Ibiza Town and other nightlife spots. I had limited time to explore some of the island’s iconic spots last September , so I’m looking forward to sundowners at Café Mambo , late nights at Pacha, and some R&R on Formentera ’s beaches, which are some of the most beautiful I’ve ever seen.

Shortly after my return from the White Isle, I’m heading on the ultimate bucket list adventure – my first safari in Kenya. We’ll be checking into two of the most exquisite lodges in all the land, and I’ve got my fingers and toes crossed that all the big-hitters make an appearance; lions, elephants and elusive leopards among them.

Sarah James, deputy digital editor

It feels like summer might finally have arrived – and the sunshine has brought with it a sense of excitement for what this season has to offer. This cute Wolf & Badger backpack is perfect for picnics or day trips out and about in the sunshine (with a nifty secret pocket on the back for your valuables), and has quickly entered the chat as one of the bags I reach for most days. Of course, I couldn’t resist trying the Uniqlo viral puffy bag for myself, too – at just under £25, it's a steal, and the olive and cream colours are both perfect additions to any smart summer wardrobe. This Arket swimsuit in lip-smacking orange is high on my wishlist for summery holidays, as is this Kitri crochet dress (on sale at £65, down from £165!). Finally, I’ve fully boarded the Cowboy Carter Western trend train – I just ordered some sparkly cowboy boots from Vinted, but this fun silver pair are a great option too.

What I’m doing

Banging on about the weather, like every other Londoner right now. The longer days and warmer evenings mean, for me at least, making the most of the capital city’s elite summer vibes. I’ve promised myself I’ll go swimming at least once a week from now until autumn, and I would love to try a handful of London’s best lidos across the season (my favourites right now are London Fields Lido and Parliament Hill Lido, but I’m happy to change my mind if I find somewhere better). I’m also going to take up tennis again – I started (trying to) play last summer, but The Challengers -fever and tennis-core obsession has made me keen to give it another go.

I’m staying at the Hansel & Gretel House at Bradford Estates in Shropshire for a cosy weekend getaway in the woods. I’m really looking forward to the chance to decompress after a busy few weeks I’ve got coming up – I’m heading to Las Vegas for the World’s 50 Best Restaurant Awards , then flying to Edinburgh for Taylor Swift’s Eras Tour. Later in June, I have tickets to Glastonbury – I’ve already started stocking up on bits and bobs I need, and my spare room is currently a holding ground for cold brew coffee cans (essential for caffeine-lovers to have on hand when waking up the morning after the night before – the best I’ve found are these from Grind , who also just launched this cute Hello Kitty collaboration with a stainless steel coffee cup that's perfect for camping) and cocktails to sip on while watching the likes of Avril Lavigne and Shania Twain – these MOTH ones can’t be beaten.

After a relatively quiet April, May has been full of travel with trips to LA and Florence. In LA, I was lucky enough to stay at two of the city’s iconic addresses – Hotel Bel-Air and The Beverly Hills Hotel . Both lived up to the hype; in Beverly Hills, I felt like a celeb sat pool-side during the day and tucked into delicious dinners at the Polo Lounge in the evening, while in the Bel-Air, I ate the fluffiest pancakes on the patio for breakfast before a day spent working from my very own private terrace overlooking the hotel’s perfectly manicured gardens below.

For my first trip to Florence, I checked into Il Tornabuoni – a super-smart spot in the heart of the city. I couldn't have picked a better base for exploring everything Florence has to offer – we fuelled up on breakfasts of eggs, pastries and fruit in the hotel’s light-filled ground floor restaurant Il Magnifico before plenty of shopping, eating and drinking, and collapsed on a cloud-like bed at the end of the day (via a spritz on the rooftop terrace, of course).

There are few places better than the UK for the peak summer months - long picnics in the park, day trips to the beach, and barbecues in the back garden. In June I’ll be staying much closer to home, with weekends at the seaside and kicking off festival season. I’m headed to Margate for a stay at Margate House - a beautiful guest house painted almost entirely pink! Then I’ll be stuffing clothes for every kind of weather scenario imaginable into a backpack for my sixth Glastonbury (cue me spending the next few weeks praying to the Glasto gods for sunshine).

A summer spent in the UK means being prepared for all weather. If the worst should happen and a soggy Glastonbury is on the cards, Hunter’s City Explore ankle boots are going to be a lifesaver for running between stages in the mud, while a pair of Crocs will be ideal for the campsite.

For when the weather is being kind, I’m eyeing up this floaty, black Doen number – perfect for flouncing around in the Margate sunshine. After seeing woven leather bags just about everywhere, I’ve been lusting after this one from Massimo Dutti - perfect for throwing all of my summer essentials into. To top it off, I love these oval-frame sunglasses from Le Specs – they’re so chic, and at £55, I won’t be stressed about when I inevitably sit on them.

As the first signs of spring appear, I make way for the Kent coast. The changing of the clocks allows for long walks along the beach after work, stopping off for fish and chips in front of the sunset in Broadstairs or Margate . Otherwise, I’ve just returned from back-to-back trips to Athens in Paris . I was fortunate enough to check into The Monument Athens for a long weekend – a spectacular boutique property in one of the city’s cooler neighbourhoods, where long suppers turn into late nights now summer’s arrived there. In Paris, I was with Airbnb for a preview of a super exciting Olympics pop-up. It was my first time in the city as a free-roaming adult, so I finally got to explore Montmartre and the surrounding areas after café-hopping and croque monsieur-munching.

As unpredictable as it can be, spring in London means one thing – rooftop season . Los Mochis City recently opened its doors on Liverpool Street, and the ensuing launch party is still the talk of the town – think giant tuna deliveries, free-flowing Champagne and DJs taking guests into the early hours on the huge terrace. There’s lots happening in Mayfair , too, if you know where to look. Sparrow Italia’s rooftop terrace is open for business, so I’ll be returning for tiramisu in the sun as soon as possible while word of The Dover continues to spread around town; my recent gut-busting visit has been a recent foodie highlight.

I’ve crammed a lot into spring, having not learnt from the slight chaos back-to-back trips last year resulted in. Following recent trips to Paris and Athens, I’ll be checking into Maxx Royal Bodrum once it opens. If my stay at Maxx Royal Kemer is anything to go by, I expect we’re in for a treat, not least because the resort’s restaurants include a Turkish outpost of Caviar Kaspia and a dining space led by Wolfgang Puck. After many long childhood summers spent along the Bodrum peninsula, I’m looking forward to exploring new areas beside the glittering Aegean. Later in the year, I’ll be returning to the White Isle, checking into Hyde Ibiza before a villa stay – the new Ennismore property is part of a larger complex connected to Mondrian Ibiza in the family-friendly bay of Cala Llonga.

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The First-Ever LGBTQ Visitor Center in the National Parks System Is Finally Here

Before the Dyke March takes its first steps out of Bryant Park this Saturday and the NYC Pride Parade floats through lower Manhattan on Sunday, make sure not to miss the opening of the new Stonewall National Monument Visitor Center (SNMVC) this Friday, sitting just a door down from its iconic namesake bar .

The visitor center is a collaboration between Pride Live , a nonprofit dedicated to LGBTQIA advocacy and community-building, and the National Parks Service (NPS). The site is a place of many firsts: Stonewall made history as the original site of the Stonewall Riots of 1969 that catalyzed a new political movement for the queer community to stand against state violence and discrimination. The new visitor center, which opens tomorrow on June 28, provides direct access to the history of Stonewall as it’s never been seen before. Additionally, it makes history as the first queer visitor center within the National Parks System .

Earlier this week, Condé Nast Traveler got a preview of the SNMVC. Here’s what visitors can expect from the first-of-its-kind landmark.

What’s it like in the Stonewall National Monument Visitor Center?

The window display of the center presents a loud-and-clear statement of purpose written in purple neon light: “In the name of those who came before me, I pledge to be brave, to be true to myself, and to fight like hell for equality.”

The exhibitions inside the center demonstrate various manifestations of that pledge from the LGBTQIA community. To the immediate right of the entrance, there’s a piece by trans digital artist FEWOCiOUS titled How are you? The piece is a dynamic abstract painting with swaths of red, white, and blue paint and bright scrawls of words and affirmations like, “ALiVE” and “i FOUGHT.” Across from the contemporary painting hangs a touching dedication to Pride Live co-founder Diana Rodriguez’s uncle—Tony Torres, a Vietnam veteran who died due to complications from AIDS in 1989.

The SNMVC’s unique curation juxtaposes moments in queer culture which finally share a space to intersect and exist together. Experiencing all of these fresh combinations is far from a quiet and sobering walk. For instance, as I made my way down the History of Stonewall timeline, I couldn’t help but move in time with Diana Ross’s “No Matter What Sign You Are” coming from the period-faithful jukebox, its tracklist courtesy of Honey Dijon. The tokens visitors use to play the hits from Dione Warwick and Bowie are bespoke quarters with a hand raised in a peace sign on the face to commemorate the Stonewall rebellion.

Towards the back of the center, the jukebox tracks wind down and visitors can sit in on programming in the theater. The theater area is tasteful and minimalist with its two columns of black chairs and gallery-like white-walls. Golden shovels with sponsor names line the theater in their own lit displays—they truly run the gamut with names like JPMorgan Chase and Christina Aguilera side-by-side. When I was there, a Booking.com video hosted by queer travel influencer @raviroundtheworld was on loop. The video was a center-exclusive for Booking.com’s Travel Proud series, where Ravi toured the queer highlights of Pittsburgh, New Orleans, and San Francisco.

The theater’s future programming will include more Travel Proud productions and Pride Live’s own screenings that celebrate the stories of global queer cultures and communities. On the center’s collaboration with Booking.com, which made the theater possible, Ann Marie Gothard, the chairperson of Pride Live, tells Condé Nast Traveler , “This immersive experience will, we hope, inspire future generations to carry on the important work of achieving full equality.”

Booking.com’s partnership with the SNMVC is the latest success in their Travel Proud initiatives. Ongoing examples include leading inclusive hospitality training for over 70,000 properties and conducting research on queer travel with leading organizations like the International LGBTQ+ Travel Association (IGLTA). Booking.com’s CMO Arjan Dijk summarizes the motivation behind their efforts as part of the company ethos: “Everyone should be able to experience the world as themselves, always.”

The SNMVC is an intentional work-in-progress of reclaiming the original Stonewall property for the queer community in New York and beyond. I was impressed by how expansive the center felt and the captivating amount of detail given to honoring Stonewall as it was—one highlight I loved was the outline on the ground of where the original bar stood. The center also keeps a close eye on the future of the LGBTQIA community in the US—attention well-represented by a living tapestry from the Parsons School of Design, called The Community Weave. It collages memes, advertisements, headlines, and many other media forms to portray, “the complex and politicized aspects of queer history.” The Weave also invites visitors to, “physically leave a piece of themselves with the exhibit,” in various prompt journals.

Come to the Stonewall National Monument Visitor Center for an all-new look into queer history. Revisit for the vision of the future it continues to imagine.

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