road trip to baja california

Drive to Baja California: The Ultimate Road Trip Guide

About the author

Nicole Abbott is a passionate travel writer and homeschooling mom of three, with a keen eye for unique destinations and a love for the outdoors. More info

One of the best ways to visit Baja California is by taking a road trip. The peninsula of Baja, California, consists of the desert and sea and is a popular tourist destination year-round. Baja California stretches over seven hundred miles and gives a stunning view of the Pacific Ocean waves and the west side of the Gulf of California.

Due to its extensive coastline, it comes as no surprise that Baja California boasts some of the most stunning beaches in the world. Beaches aren’t the only thing you’ll find that is beautiful in this vacation hot spot. Baja California has plenty of wildlife opportunities, snorkeling, whale watching, fishing, and more!

As you continue reading below, we’ve put together the ultimate road trip guide to Baja, California, to help you with your trip along the way. From crossing the border to required documents, and popular destinations, you’ll have everything you need to be well-prepared for your trip.

The Best Time to Take a Baja California Road Trip

If you’ve been planning a trip to Baja, California, the best time to travel is between the months of November and March . With temperatures staying in between the seventies and eighties, you’ll have the perfect ocean breeze and comfort. April is when you’ll see an increase in temperatures, so for a more comfortable experience, taking a road trip during this time is highly recommended.

Between the months of November and March are also the prime season for whale watching in Baja , California. Each winter, these whales migrate along the peninsula and make their way down to the Sea of Cortez.

While it sounds tempting, you’ll want to avoid driving to Baja, California, during the summer months. Not only is this because of the unbearable heat, but because of humidity, tropical storms, and prime vacationing time for travelers.

Crossing the US and Mexico Border

When taking a drive to Baja, California, there are two border crossings that travelers handle when taking their trip. These two borders are the San Ysidro border and Calexico/Mexicali border.

See also: The Best Beaches In Baja California

When crossing the San Ysidro border, you’ll travel through Tijuana and Ensenada, right along the Pacific coast, before traveling inland. When crossing the Calexico/Mexicali border, you’ll cross into Mexicali, right along the Sea of Cortez. For a more scenic route, you may prefer taking the Calexico/Mexicali border option.

When crossing the border, you’ll either get asked to move along or to pull over for an inspection. Crossing the border into Mexico typically isn’t a long process; however, on the way back to entering the US, it may take a bit longer.

Documents You’ll Need When Taking a Road Trip to Baja California

One of the most essential questions when driving to Baja, California, is, “Do you need a passport to drive to Mexico?”

The answer is yes. To enter Mexico through the border, you’ll need a passport or valid green card to show. Since Mexico gives travelers six months on their tourist visa, your passport should be good for six months after your border crossing travel date.

To get a United States passport, you go to a post office, library, or clerks of court. Passports can take two months to process, but you can pay more to have it expedited.

Auto Insurance

Another question travelers ask is, “Does my insurance from the US work in Mexico?” The answer is no. When driving to Mexico, your insurance from the US is not valid.

This means you’ll need a Mexican auto insurance policy to cross the border into Mexico from the United States. To buy Mexican auto insurance, you can visit Baja Bound . Baja Bound is one of the most trusted insurance names and has the best ratings for an insurance company. 

See also: Best Hiking in Baja California

Check out my guide on everything you need to know about Mexican Car Insurance .

It’s important to note that you can’t buy Mexican auto insurance at the border, and if you don’t present your paperwork, you won’t be allowed to drive to Baja, California.

U.S. Driver’s License

If you have a legal driver’s license for any state in the United States, as a traveler, you can legally drive in Baja, California.

Vehicle Registration

When you cross the border into Mexico, you must show your vehicle registration documents. If you forget to bring your vehicle registration documents, you won’t be allowed to drive in Mexico.

TVIP Car Permit

When traveling, you can get your temporary vehicle importation permit card when you get to the México border or before taking your trip to Mexico. To save you time when crossing the México border, it’s best to get a TVIP car permit in advance. You may apply for a TVIP Mexican car permit sixty days before beginning your trip.

FMM Tourist Visa

Your FMM Tourist Visa is your México travel visa. When traveling, every traveler in Mexico is required to have one to show proof that they are legal in Mexico. During your trip, make sure you have your FMM tourist visa on you at all times.

In some circumstances, you can get your FMM visa here before your trip while also being able to get one at the México border. An FKM visa costs 595 Mexican pesos, which is $30 in US dollars.

See also: Best Time to Visit Baja California: Events and Festivals

Pet Vaccine Records

If you’re planning to bring any pets along on your drive to Baja, California, you’ll need to bring your pet vaccination records. If you’ve talked to any pet owners who have completed this road trip, they’ll tell you that they’ve never been asked for these documents. However, just to be on the safe side, you should have them on hand for anything unexpected when entering a different country. 

What You Shouldn’t Pack for Your Baja California Road Trip

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There are certain items that you’re not allowed to take when crossing the border into Mexico. Some of the things you’ll want to avoid packing are:

• Product – Any fruits, vegetables, meat, or cheese. If you need any of these items, you can visit a grocery store in Baja, California.
• Guns & Ammunition

Tips When Driving to Baja California

1. avoid driving at night.

An essential tip for driving to Baja, California, is to not go at night . Not driving at night is not recommended in Baja California for several reasons.

One of the reasons is poorly lit roads. Roads that aren’t well-lit make it challenging to locate hazards like animals, other pedestrians, speed bumps, or unexpected curves. It’s also prevalent to see livestock roaming around these roads, which can make night driving dangerous.

In addition, services are limited at night if you happen to break down or have an emergency, so driving during the day is highly recommended. Therefore, plan your itinerary for day driving and to reach your destinations before sunset. 

2. Stay Alert for Topes

Topes are just another word for speed bumps that you’ll find while taking a drive to Baja, California. Speed bumps are put into place to slow down traffic. Hitting a top at high speeds can damage your car tires or under your car, depending on what type you’re driving. 

3. Fuel Up Your Gas Tank

Before taking a Baja California road trip, Gas stations don’t come by too often, especially when traveling through more remote areas. This is true when traveling along the peninsula of Baja California.

Before starting your trip, have your gas filled up ahead of time and research the locations of gas stations to avoid any unexpected problems. It’s always best to be over-prepared than not. 

4. Be Aware of Narrow Roads

In Baja, California, narrow roads are very widespread. Narrow roads, in addition to traffic and bad drivers, can make driving in Baja, California difficult. When traveling on narrow roads, be extra cautious and keep a safe distance away from other cars .

When making your traveling plans, always plan for extra time when navigating narrow roads. 

5. Be Aware of Winding Roads

In addition to narrow roads, you’ll also need to be aware of winding roads. Baja California is a very ace drive, with some areas having winding roads. If you plan to stop and check out the scenery, make sure you pull over. 

6. Be Alert of Military Checkpoints

When taking a drive to Baja California along the main highways, it’s very common to come across military checkpoints. Military checkpoints are typically put into place to check for drug and arms trafficking.

When you come across a military checkpoint, follow any instructions given by officers. As a precaution, always keep your documents on hand, such as your license, registration, and proof of insurance. 

7. Have Supplies and Essentials

Taking a Baja California road trip can be an amazing experience, but you should always make sure you’re well-prepared. For a safe and smooth road trip, you should make sure you have the following supplies and essentials:

• Passport and identification
• Registration and Insurance
• Water and food
• First aid kit
• Tore deflator
• Portable air compressor
• Dash camera
• Downloaded maps
• Cellphone charger
• Emergency contacts

8. Have Cash on Hand in Pesos

Although you can still use your debit and credit cards in Baja, California, it’s always a good idea to keep cash on hand in pesos. When visiting a small town, they sometimes have limited access to machines, so having pesos on hand can help you pay for food and gas when needed.

9. Download Maps Offline

One of the challenges you’ll face when taking a drive to Baja, California, is not having internet access. Before beginning your trip, you should make sure you download any maps you need so you can have them offline.

Having maps offline can ensure that you won’t get lost along the way. When using your offline maps, you can access your GPS and other navigation features.

10. Avoid Parking on Painted Roads

If you see painted roads and are unsure if you’re allowed to park in these areas, don’t worry, we have you covered.

• Red curbs = no parking zones
• Yellow curbs = for taxis
• Blue curbs = disabled parking
• White = anyone may park

Where to Go When Taking a Road Trip to Baja California

📍 Where to stay: Hampton Inn by Hilton Tijuana  

View this post on Instagram A post shared by Hampton Inn By Hilton Tijuana (@hamptoninntijuana)

When traveling to Tijuana, you may have heard that it’s one of the most dangerous cities, but if you talk to locals, this isn’t true. Tijuana is filled with some of the best things to do, many of them including eating and drinking. This city also has a unique cultural history, as you’ll see when you visit their museums.

So what are some things you can do while you’re there? First, we’d highly recommend checking out as many breweries as you can during your short visit. Three favorites among travelers for breweries are Norte Brewing Co , Mamut , and Insurgente .

Since Tijuana is located only a short few miles from the shire, you can visit the beaches at Playa de Tijuana. If you’re looking for a way to spend the afternoon, basking in the sun is always a great idea. 

📍 Where to stay: Rancho La Puerta

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If you ask any traveler about Tecate, they’ll tell you it’s one of the most magical towns in Baja California. When stopping through Tecate, you’ll see beautiful landscapes and a town with much to offer.

Surrounded by mountains and luscious green countryside, Tecate also has many wineries. At the Tecate Brewery , which is owned by Heineken, you can go on a tour to view how their beer is produced. You also may receive a free beer along the way. 

In addition, when stopping through Tecate, you’ll notice this town has a more relaxed atmosphere. After driving for hours, it’s a great place to stop and rest along the way.

Many travelers who visit Tecate like to experience its abundance of outdoor activities, such as hiking, camping, and shopping .

3. Ensenada

📍 Where to stay: Estero Beach Hotel & Resort  

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Known as the wine capital of Mexico, Ensenada is surrounded by the Sea of Cortez and has a lot of natural bluffs where travelers may enjoy the outdoors. In Ensenada, you’ll find two national parks: The Constitucion de 1857 and the Sierra San Pedro Martir.

Ensenada also produces around ninety percent of its wine and is one of the most visited seaports on the Pacific Coast. If you’re a nature and adventure lover, Ensenada is the perfect stop to enjoy the outdoors. During your stop, you can go hiking, fishing, surfing, camping, zip-lining, and more!

Ensenada is the perfect spot for hot days, so if you need a place to cook off, Ensenada is the ideal place to make a pit stop!

4. Valle de Guadalupe

📍 Where to stay: Meson Del Vino

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While staying in Valle de Guadalupe, you’ll quickly find out that it’s the center for restaurants, boutique wineries, and hotels. This rustic and relaxed atmosphere is sophisticated and filled with miles of dirt roads, with opportunities for endless exploring.

At the beginning of August each year, the fun, but crowded event, Vendimia Wine Harvest Festival , takes place. This festival occurs over a few weeks and is an exciting festival to attend.

If you’re looking for something affordable to do during your stay, you can visit the Museo de la Vid y el Vino . For only a $4 fee, you can learn about the entire winemaking process, including the history of Valle de Guadalupe.

Since Valle de Guadalupe is located inland, the weather can tend to be warmer, with temperatures reaching up to 100 degrees in the summer and 70 degrees during the day during winter. If you’re visiting this area, make sure you pack according to the season. 

5. Rosarito

📍 Where to stay: Rosarito Beach Hotel

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Situated just thirty-five minutes from the United States border, you’ll find the city of Rosarito, so this may be one of your first stops during your Baja California road trip. Rosarito has various activities that make it an attractive location for travelers.

Rosarito is known by travelers and locals as having one of the most scenic landscapes and is popular among those who love basking in the sun because of its beautiful beaches. Rosarito is also one of the most accessible drives from the border.

From RV parks to its assortment of accommodations, Rosarito has something for everyone and every budget.

📍 Where to stay: Hotel Catedral La Paz

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Situated in southern Baja, California, you’ll find the sunny capital of Mexico, La Paz. From sports fishing to budget-friendly boat tours, La Paz has plenty of outdoor activities to fill your itinerary while you’re in town.

It’s here you’ll find gorgeous beaches, whale-watching adventures, and delicious seafood. La Paz is also home to the Malecon , where you can take a bike to explore around town or book a paddle boarding lesson.

This area of Mexico is genuinely considered paradise. With its hot deserts, ocean breeze, and turquoise blue waters, there’s nothing like the city of La Paz. La Paz is best known for its white sandy beaches, which beat any other beach in the Caribbean.

If you’re driving from the southern border of the US on Highway 1, it will take you around twenty to twenty-four hours. There is also a car ferry that crosses La Paz into Topolobambo and Mazatlan.

7. Todos Santos

📍 Where to stay: Villa Santa Cruz  

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During your stop in Todos Santos, you’ll be captivated by a beautiful oasis of gorgeous views that overlook sandy beaches. Todos Santos is actually considered Baja California’s best-kept secret among travelers .

Todos Santos is a top favorite for nature lovers with its hikers, kayakers, snorkelers, and fishermen. While in town, you can try out fantastic restaurants, beautiful hotels, shops, and beaches.

Todos Santos is a great place to relax and enjoy the downtime of your Baja California road trip. 

8. San Jose Del Cabo

📍 Where to stay: Marquis Los Cabos

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For couples who are taking a drive to Baja California, San Jose Del Cabo, this city offers a charming feel for romantics, award-winning restaurants, and plenty of outdoor adventure.

There’s a diverse amount of attractions in San Jose Del Cabo, so you’ll have an array of choices when spending your time here. One of the top things you’ll want to do during your stay is indulge in some of the best food in San Jose Del Cabo.

One of the top restaurants in San Jose Del Cabo is La Revolucion . Here you’ll be able to indulge in cocktails, appetizers, and main courses that will keep you coming back for me.

Before you leave San Jose Del Cabo, you’ll want to escape to a nearby beach. There are several beaches in San Jose Del Cabo that are popular among travelers. One of the most classic beaches here is Costa Azul , a beach with a very laid-back vibe. 

9. Cabo San Lucas

📍 Where to stay: Sandos Finisterra  

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With its combination of weather and scenery, Cabo San Lucas is a great Baja California destination. Cabo is filled with great beaches, restaurants, and all-inclusive hotels.

It’s also known for being the home of the stone arch, one of the most famous landmarks that you’ll need to add to your must-see list. One thing to remember is that unless you enjoy crowds, you’ll want to avoid traveling during Spring Break.

Baja California Road Trip FAQ

Are there certain items i should avoid bringing on my baja california road trip.

When taking a road trip to Baja, California, you should avoid packing any produce or guns and ammunition, as you’re not allowed to cross the border with these items.

Where can I buy Mexican auto insurance?

To buy Mexican auto insurance, you can visit Baja Bound . And you should also check out my guide on everything you need to know about Mexican car insurance .

Which destination is excellent for couples?

San Jose Del Cabo is the best destination for couples who are living for a romantic getaway.

When is the best time to take a road trip to Baja California?

The best time to travel to Baja, California, is between the months of November and March.

When planning your road trip to Baja, California, it’s essential to travel during the best time, know the procedures for crossing the border, have the required documents, pack important essentials and supplies, and to travel and stay at the best destinations along the way.

From Baja California wine-tasting experiences to relaxing on the white sandy beaches, your Baja California road trip is guaranteed to be like one you’ve never experienced.

Nicole Abbott is a passionate travel writer and homeschooling mom of three, with a keen eye for unique destinations and a love for the outdoors. She brings a wealth of knowledge and enthusiasm to the travel community. In her free time, she enjoy arts and crafts, hiking, and sharing insightful travel tips and stories. Her articles aim to inspire and guide those eager to discover new places and experiences around the world.

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While traveling to Ensenada be sure to spend at least a day in Valle de Guadalupe © Jorge Malo Photography / Getty Images

Baja California evokes a rugged, wild west kind of adventure. Stretching some 760 miles south from the US border, this Mexican peninsula is a land of compelling contrasts — a dry, mostly desert geography with hidden enclaves of lush vineyards, jagged mountains and solemn cactus forests bordered by crystalline waters and wide sandy beaches.

Baja is at once a sparsely-populated no man’s land, and home to thousands of species of marine life and millions of vacationing tourists. Here's what you need to know for the ultimate Baja California road trip.

The Free and Sovereign State of Baja California

Estado Libre y Soberano de Baja California , the aptly grandiose official name of Baja’s northern state.

Removed from the Mexican mainland, Baja California has evolved its own distinct aesthetic and culture. From low-key towns with just the right amount of civilization to unmarked dusty roads awaiting exploration, Baja has a charm that keeps those who know coming back for more.

The peninsula is divided into two states: Baja California in the north and Baja California Sur below the 28th parallel.

The infamous border town has finally grown into its own. A growing middle-class and burgeoning cultural scene has helped turn this former hedonism destination into a Mexican city with its own identity.

With an international airport, a solid bus system and many rental car options – along with its proximity to major US cities like San Diego and Los Angeles – Tijuana is the most convenient starting point for a Baja adventure.

But first, take a moment to get to know TJ (its local nickname). Stroll down Av Revolucion for Mexican nightlife options like Las Pulgas , sample local craft beers at Norte Brewing Co , and perhaps most importantly, chow down on spicy tacos or fresh seafood at one of the city’s many street vendors. Beyond the tourist trinkets and margarita-callers near the border, Tijuana has a vibrant food and culture scene worth exploring.

Expert tip: If you have some extra time, take a quick cab ride out to Playas de Tijuana. This beach suburb offers a lively local experience, with family picnics, seafood cocktails, and a close-up view of the US-Mexico border wall as it trails off in the Pacific.

Once you’ve given Tijuana a go, turn your attention south. Baja awaits.

A 2-hour drive down the Pacific coast you’ll find Ensenada . A major port town and vacation destination, Baja California’s third-biggest city is a good example of the state’s varied character. Arriving in town you feel the transition – from the border region’s hectic and often hard urban life, to a more relaxed Mexico.

Ensenada has an impressive waterfront promenade ( malecón in Spanish), a serious fishing and seafood scene, and a lively nightlife. Pass by Hussong’s , a cantina that’s been around since the 1890s, for mariachi. For freshly-caught seafood, stroll through the Mercado Negro fish market, or head a few streets off the main strip to Tacos Don Zefe for tasty fish tacos.

Expert tip: Ensenada is a great home base from which to access Mexico’s biggest winemaking region. Valle de Guadalupe is a lush valley and wine-tasting hot-spot. There’s a growing selection of vineyards at affordable prices and tours can be easily booked from Ensenada.

The Road South – Baja California Sur

After Ensenada, Baja California’s remote and unsettled side begins to show itself. And it’s where most travelers must make choice – how to get south?

If traveling by car, the famous one-lane Highway 1 is a spectacular winding road with epic views. It can be slow-going and there are stretches of hundreds of miles with nothing but stoic cacti, tiny fishing villages and empty coastline. Leave early and plan your fuel stops carefully.

The bus system works quite well, with many options leaving from Tijuana or Ensenada. Travel times to Baja Sur range from 10-20 hours depending on your destination.

Expert tip: At about the halfway point of the peninsula, there are worthwhile stops like San Ignacio for its lovely lagoon and world-class whale watching; Mulegé for a lush oasis and white sand beaches; and Loreto for a time-machine colonial town.

The capital of Baja Sur, La Paz , like Ensenada, is an example of a major city that has maintained its smaller-town Baja feel.

With a charming malecón and a seafside main strip, La Paz is a relaxing vacation alternative to uber-touristy Cabo San Lucas. La Paz is the launching pad for Isla Espiritu Santo , one of the 244 islands that form a Unesco biosphere reserve famous for its overwhelming selection of marine life (French explorer Jacques Cousteau called the Sea of Cortez “the world’s aquarium”).

Expert tip: La Paz is also an ideal location for day trips, with windsurfing mecca Los Barilles and many secluded beaches within a 1 to 2-hour drive.

Todo Santos

Imagine a mix of sleepy Mexican village and chic Southern California boutique hotel, where dusty roads and charming cobblestone share the same block. Sprinkle some yoga studios and art galleries, with beat-up pickup trucks off-roading on deserted beaches – and you begin to get a picture of Todos Santos .

The latest destination for well-off artsy types, Todos Santos is part manicured tourist town, part rustic Baja escape. Deemed a Pueblo Mágico (magical town) by the Mexican government Todos Santos, despite intense gentrification, manages to blend high-end options with a laid-back vibe.

People who love it, love it a lot. You’ll find many Americans living here full-time or coming down for the season. There’s no shortage of pricier hotels and restaurants, with kale smoothies readily available.

Budget travelers generally have a hard time in Todos, but a family-run hostel has finally opened up, with Todos Santos Hostel offering dorms and cozy glamping options in a relaxed surfer/artist atmosphere. For quality pub fare and friendly locals, check out Chill N’ Grill where you’ll always find an ex-pat ready to gush over Todos Santos’ charm.

For those looking for a truly amazing experience check out Todos Santos Eco Adventures . Owned and operated by husband and wife duo Sergio & Brian you can find all your sustainable adventure needs in one place. They can take you to a remote island for glamping where you can sleep under the stars by night and paddle board with sea turtles by day. They can take you birding and whale watching and basically help you enjoy the Baja in all its natural glory in an intimate, friendly and sustainable way. Plus the food is amazing too.

Expert tip: About 15 minutes down the main road you’ll find San Pedrito and Los Cerritos beach , well-known surf destinations in a picturesque yet raw Pacific setting.

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How To Prepare for a Baja California, Mexico Road Trip

Want to go on a Baja California road trip? Learn everything from what to expect crossing the border, what to pack, wifi, camping info, & more.

Stretching 760 miles south from the US/Mexico border, the Baja California Peninsula is a jaw-dropping international road trip destination that’s easily accessible from the US. Split into two states – Baja California (North) and Baja California Sur (South), the northern region is famous for its wine while the south is known for its incredible beaches and marine life.

With the Sea of Cortez to the east and the Pacific Ocean to the west, the Baja Peninsula offers endless opportunities for exploration – everything from waterfall hikes, hot springs, surfing, street tacos, UNESCO World Heritage marine sites, and colorful small towns – all at a much slower pace of life.

But planning a road trip – let alone an international one – can be stressful with navigating border crossings, language barriers, and unfamiliar roads and scenery, so that’s why I’ve put together this Baja road trip guide. I spent two months doing van life in Baja and gathered all the info you’ll need to have a safe and fun time in Mexico.

Want to go on a Baja California road trip? Learn everything from what to expect crossing the border, camping info, how to get internet, what to pack, and more.

This post may contain affiliate links.

Best Time for a Baja California Road Trip

The best time to do a Baja road trip is between November and March . The highs range between 70s-80s with lows in the 60s, and combined with the ocean breeze, it’s close-to-perfect weather. It starts to heat up in April, but as long as you are near the water, it doesn’t start to get uncomfortably hot for camping until May.

Winter and early spring are also the prime whale-watching seasons in Baja. Grey whales, blue whales, and humpback whales migrate along the Baja Peninsula each winter from November to March as they make their yearly journey from Alaska down to their winter homes in the Sea of Cortez.

I was in Baja from early February until the second week of April and had near-perfect weather. It did start to get really hot inland by mid-March, and the temperatures driving north were 95F+ in early April, but as long as you are prepared for heat and mostly stick to the coast for camping if visiting during the summer shoulder season, it is manageable.

I would avoid driving to Baja during the summer months because of the scorching heat, humidity, and high chance of tropical storms from August until October.

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US/Mexico Border Crossing

There are two main border crossing options that people take when starting their Baja California road trip: San Ysidro and Calexico/Mexicali. The San Ysidro border crossing takes you into Tijuana and down the western route which runs through Ensenada along the Pacific Ocean before heading inland through a number of small agricultural towns. The Calexico border crossing takes you into Mexicali and down the eastern route which runs along the Sea of Cortez and passes through San Felipe.

The route you choose will be up to you and based on your itinerary. I chose to cross into Mexico at Calexico/Mexicali because the drive along the Sea of Cortez is more scenic and less hectic than the western route.

Crossing the border into Mexico isn’t nearly as intimidating as it seems. When you arrive at the border, agents will either wave you through or ask that you pull aside for inspection. I was directed to pull aside and the agent asked to open my side and back van doors. He quickly looked around and the inspection took less than 5 minutes. Because I was planning on staying in Mexico for more than 7 days, I then pulled into the small parking lot to go inside to get my FMM visa (more on that below). From arrival to departure, it took about 20 minutes total to drive through the Mexicali border. 

Note that crossing from Mexico back into the US generally takes much longer. On my return to the US, the wait to get to the border took about 1.5 hours at Mexicali, but it can take much longer than that, especially if returning via the Tijuana/San Ysidro border (which tends to be the busiest). I wasn’t pulled aside for inspection when crossing back into the US although that is something that could happen.

Documents You’ll Need to Drive to Mexico

Along with your physical passport, I recommend bringing a few copies of your passport to stash in your vehicle. Once you cross the border, you should never need to hand over your physical passport again. Always present a copy if you are asked.

FMM Tourist Card

If you plan to stay in Mexico for more than 7 days, you are required to get a temporary tourist visa, which costs $35 USD and allows you to stay in Mexico for up to 6 months. You can apply online ahead of time, or get it in person at the border. If you apply online, be sure to print out BOTH the receipt and the tourist card. If you do not print both documents, you will have to pay again at the border. It’s important to note you cannot use a credit card to pay for your FMM at the border – it is cash only, but they accept USD.

Even if you apply online, you still have to stop to get your visa stamped inside at the border. I highly recommend skipping the online application and just getting your FMM card at the border. I applied a week before crossing but my visa was never processed, and I had to pay again at the border. This happened to the entire group I was traveling with and I’ve heard of other travelers having issues with the online application as well. Save yourself the headache and money and just buy your FMM at the border.

Mexican Auto Insurance

Car insurance is required by Mexican law because US policies cannot prove your financial responsibility to the Mexican authorities – your US car insurance will not work in Mexico. There are many companies that you can get car insurance through, but the most highly recommended (and what I went with) is Baja Bound .

Pet Vaccinations Records

If you are bringing your pet(s) across the border, you will need to have their vaccination records handy. In speaking with multiple dog owners, none of them were asked for any records at the border, anytime during their stay, or upon re-entry to the US. However, it is best to have them on hand just in case. Get more tips on road tripping with pets here .

Driving in Baja

There are basically two major roads that run through Baja: Highway 1 (crossing from Tijuana all the way south to Cabo) and Highway 5 (crossing from Mexicali). The roads are quite narrow with potholes and minimal shoulders, so be sure to take it slow and pay attention while you’re driving. 

Military Checkpoints

There are approximately 6 military checkpoints along the highways in Baja all the way down to Los Cabos. These are usually quick checks to make sure you do not have any drugs or guns with you, and they will usually ask questions like “¿De dónde vienes?” ( where are you coming from? ) and “¿Adónde vas?” ( where are you going? ).

It can be intimidating seeing men with large guns, but they are typically friendly and non-confrontational. Sometimes they will wave you through the checkpoint, and sometimes they will ask to look inside your vehicle – I was asked to open my side door about 50% of the time. I highly recommend keeping your valuables out of sight and staying in the vehicle or standing right alongside to watch as they search your van, just to be safe. I personally did not have any issues during these checkpoints.

Tips for Driving in Baja

• Avoid driving at night : this is not a personal safety issue, this is because there are typically cows and other roadside hazards that are hard to see.
• Fuel up often : Gas stations can be few and far between on the long stretches of road and sometimes they run out of gas. Be sure to fill up often.
• Bring a spare tire : Baja has tons of bumpy dirt roads and the chances of getting a flat are high. Make sure you have a spare tire and it’s aired up.
• Beware of speed bumps : Baja is notorious for sneaky speed bumps as you get closer to towns. Sometimes they’re signed as “Tope”, but many times they are not and they can really test your vehicle’s suspension.
• Have pesos on hand : Some gas stations are cash only, so be sure to have enough pesos in your vehicle.
• Save the Green Angels number : The Green Angels are a government-funded patrol crew that acts similar to AAA in Baja. Save this number: 01-800-987-8224 in case of emergency. They can assist with mechanical issues, towing, accidents, and more.
• Know common driving etiquette : Drivers will flash their hazards to signal you to slow down, typically because there is a road hazard (usually cows or goats) ahead. When drivers turn their left-hand turn signal on the highway, it means it’s clear/OK to pass (this is usually done by semis or slower vehicles).

Cell Phones + Internet in Baja

Having internet in Mexico is ideal for getting directions, staying connected to loved ones, and working from the road. Here’s a breakdown of how to get internet in Mexico:

U.S. SIM Card

The easiest way to stay connected while you’re in Baja is to check if your current cell phone carrier offers international coverage options. Some carriers offer a limited service, such as unlimited calls/texts to the US and a small amount of data roaming per day included in your plan, while others charge a flat fee per day to use your phone outside of the US.

If you’re in Baja for a short trip and/or don’t need internet for work, this is usually enough service, however, since you’ll be roaming in Mexico with a US SIM card, don’t expect the same internet speeds and reliability.

Tip:  I’ve been using my Visible+ phone plan in Baja which offers unlimited talk, text, and roaming in Mexico (data up to .5GB/day). In areas with cell coverage, I’ve been able to call and text family and friends back in the US as normal and use my phone minimally for Google Maps, social media, and light internet browsing. You can learn more in our full review of Visible Wireless .

If you’re road tripping through Baja in your camper van and work remotely (or just want internet access anywhere you camp), Starlink is the best – but most expensive – option. There are many areas in Baja without any cell service, but Starlink’s satellite internet offers incredibly fast speeds, even in those cell phone dead-zone areas throughout the peninsula.

This winter I’ve been traveling with several friends who have Starlink, and it’s been a game changer for exploring more remote beaches and having peace of mind with full internet access.

Local Telcel SIM card

If you don’t have Starlink but want to be able to have consistent cell signal in areas with service, or will be working in your van in Baja, I highly recommend buying a local Telcel SIM card from any OXXO store (similar to a 7/11). You will need an unlocked phone in order to use Telcel. Even though T-Mobile and other US carriers use the same towers in Mexico, the signal is never as strong as those with Telcel plans.

During my first Baja road trip in 2022, I used Telcel exclusively (since Starlink didn’t exist then). I initially paid USD $7.50 + $2.50 activation fee for a SIM card with 4.5GB of data that lasts up to 30 days. Since I worked remotely, I needed more data than the plan provided, but with a Tecel plan, you can also buy unlimited data for 2 hours for $.75 and top up when needed.

I’ve also relied on Telcel in 2023 when traveling solo or without access to a Starlink. Telcel is by far the most economical way to get reliable internet in Baja if you’re working remotely.

Tip:  If your cell phone only has 1 SIM card slot, see if you can switch your US SIM to an e-SIM before coming to Baja. Using Visible’s e-SIM, I can leave my Telcel SIM inside my phone and use both carriers at the same time. I use Telcel for unlimited data to work, and Visible for calls/texts to friends and family.

Roaming Rivers put together a working in Baja e-book that I bought ahead of time that helped guide me step-by-step through the process of getting a SIM card and setting up unlimited data that I highly recommend. I also recommend turning on “Low Data” mode as soon as you cross the border and leaving your phone on airplane mode anytime you’re not using it to ensure you preserve your data.

Public Wi-fi

If you’re just coming down to Baja for a quick trip and don’t need consistent internet access, it’s possible to rely on public Wi-fi. Cafes in larger cities like Todos Santos, La Paz, or Cabo usually have strong Wi-fi, but in smaller towns, reliable Wi-fi is hard to come by and pretty slow.

However, it’s much easier to stay connected if you either bring your existing phone plan with you to Baja, have Starlink, or buy a local Telcel SIM card in Mexico.

In addition to getting your phone set up in Mexico, here are a few helpful apps to download:

• iOverlander : great for finding campsites, water refill stations, dump stations, laundromats, mechanics, restaurants, showers, and more.
• Google Maps : be sure to download maps for offline use ahead of time.
• Google Translate : you can download Spanish for offline use.
• XE Conversion : easily convert pesos to USD.
• Libby : link a library card to download e-books and audiobooks for your trip.

>> Read Next: 15 Must-Have Apps for Van Life

What to Pack for a Baja California Road Trip

A Baja road trip requires a little more preparation and packing than most other road trips . If you are heading down to Mexico with friends, make sure you have all the essentials covered between you. For example, I didn’t personally bring recovery boards or an air compressor, but a few of my travel companions had those items.

This list is tailored to those planning on car camping in Baja and/or traveling in a van, so keep that in mind if you are renting a car or staying in hotels/Airbnbs.

Here are the essentials to pack for a Baja road trip:

• Max Trax – to get unstuck from soft sand beaches. Recovery boards are a must for Mexico!
• Foldable shovel – also essential to dig yourself out if you get stuck.
• Tire deflator – if you plan to spend a lot of time beach camping or offroading, being able to deflate your tires to a set PSI easily and quickly is really convenient.
• Portable air compressor – to be able to refill your tires to the proper PSI when you hit pavement again
• Tow strap – another way to help you get unstuck
• Spare tire – there are lots of bumpy, dirt roads in Baja so make sure your spare is aired up just in case.
• Walkie-talkies – essential if you are caravanning. This is the easiest way to communicate about military checkpoints, road hazards, gas station stops, and just passing the time on long drives! There is limited cell signal on many sections, so walkie-talkies are a must.
• Extra water jug or adapter – there are “agua purificada” water refill stations everywhere in Baja, but if you have a hose fillup (especially one that screws on), you may have a harder time finding places to get water. Either bring an extra water jug , funnel , or find an adapter to make refilling water a breeze.
• Sand-proof mat – sand is inevitable during a Baja road trip, but a sand mat makes it a lot easier to manage.
• Shade structure – my van has an attached awning which came in handy on hot, sunny days. If you don’t have one, we recommend the portable MoonShade since it fits on a variety of vehicles and is budget friendly (use the code “BEARFOOTTHEORY” to get 10% off and find our full review here ).
• Snorkel gear – there are tons of awesome snorkeling spots right from the beaches so I highly recommend bringing your own gear!
• Inflatable SUP or raft – bring your favorite water toys because there are incredible paddling opportunities, especially on the Sea of Cortez side of the peninsula.
• Prescriptions and personal care items – make sure you bring enough meds to last you the duration of your trip, and maybe extra if you’re not quite sure how long you’ll be staying since not all prescriptions can be filled in Mexico. I’d also recommend bringing along digestive enzymes if you have a sensitive stomach.
• Specialty food – it was hard to find great vegetarian/vegan options at the grocery stores in most towns (outside of major cities like La Paz and Cabo). I recommend stocking up on your favorite dry/non-perishable foods and items such as tofu, shelf-stable oat milk, snacks, plant-based meats/cheeses, etc.
• Pet food – stock up on your favorite brand (and bring extra!) because you will likely not be able to find your favorite brand in Mexico.
• Jerry can – I personally didn’t bring a jerry can for extra fuel and instead made sure to fill up anytime I saw a gas station, but bring one along if you want peace of mind or plan to go serious off-roading.
• Inflatable lantern or string lights – Some beach campsites have adjacent palapas (shade structures) and it’s nice to create a little ambiance for your outdoor living space. I loved having the inflatable MPOWERED Luci Solar Lantern which lit up our entire palapa in the evenings.
• Portable toilet – dispersed camping in Baja is not like dispersed camping in the US. Most of the time you are on exposed beaches or around lots of other campers, and public toilets aren’t as common. In order to keep the beaches clean (no one wants to see a beach overrun with poop and/or toilet paper), I recommend figuring out a #2 bathroom solution, like the foldable Go Anywhere Toilet .
• Portable shower – without easy access to gyms or truck stops, it’s handy to have a way to easily rinse off salt & sand at the end of the day before climbing into bed. The compact Geyser Systems Portable Shower provides hot water to rinse yourself and your gear ( read our full Geyser review here ).

What Not to Pack for A Baja California Road Trip

There are a few items you are not allowed to cross into Mexico with – here are a few of the big ones:

• Produce – fruits, vegetables, meat, or cheese. There are plenty of grocery stores and markets in Baja for fresh produce.
• Guns or ammunition
• Drugs (including CBD)

Camping on Your Baja California Road Trip

As I mentioned previously, I was doing Baja van life and camped for the majority of my time there. There are tons of amazing campsites in Baja, including beach spots, lagoons, RV parks, and more. iOverlander is a great resource for finding both free and paid campsites. Here’s what you need to know about camping in Baja:

Beach Camping in Baja

• Most beaches are public (free), but some require a small fee that goes toward maintenance, trash collection, and (sometimes) pit toilets.
• Average paid price: 200-250 pesos/night ($10-15 USD). Cash only.
• Fees are usually collected in the afternoon, but sometimes there is someone who will collect the fee upon arrival.
• Beware of soft sand – it’s a rite of passage getting stuck in sand in Baja. Be sure to be prepared with recovery boards and a tow strap.

RV Parks and Paid Campgrounds

• Average price for dry camping: 160-600 pesos/night ($8-30 USD). Typically cash only.
• Many RV Parks are first-come, first-serve and do not accept reservations.
• Most charge a different price for hookups vs. dry camping, so be sure to ask for what kind of spot you need.
• Typical amenities include on-site laundry (for a fee), showers, and Wi-Fi (although Wi-Fi is often very slow and unreliable, unless they have Starlink on-site).
• Some RV parks will allow you to shower even if you don’t stay overnight. I paid 50-100 pesos ($2.50-$5) to shower at RV parks, and would reach out via Whatsapp ahead of time to confirm if they allow it.

Planning a trip to Baja? Check out our guides to make the most of your adventure:

• 4-Day La Paz, Mexico Itinerary for Outdoor Adventure
• Best Things to do in Todos Santos
• Best Places to Visit in Baja California Sur

I hope this blog post makes planning your Baja California road trip a breeze! If you have any questions or want to share any Baja tips, please leave a comment below.

Courtney is an avid hiker, yogi, and music lover who left her corporate career in fashion to pursue a life on the road. She's backpacked throughout Europe and Southeast Asia and now is a full-time van lifer, traveling the US & Baja in her converted Ford E150 van. Courtney is Bearfoot Theory’s content manager.

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10 Comments

I would like to drive my van down but stay in a house, apartment, mobile home I can rent. Do you know if that’s possible?

Hi Amy, definitely! There’s plenty of short/mid term rentals available down here, as it’s a very popular “snowbird” destination too.

Great post! Hoping to leave the Central Caribou of British Columbia by end of October. As a 75 year old woman travelling alone in a small truck and canopy plus a tent, this is becoming quite an organizing adventure. May not make it as far as LA Paz but hopefully Santa Rosalia, taking the # 5 route. Thank you so much for this ever so helpful post. Donnette, [email protected]

Hi Donnette, thanks for reading & glad you found this post helpful! Enjoy your Baja adventure… the prep can be a little daunting, but the gorgeous Baja towns and beaches more than make up for it 🙂 Don’t hesitate to reach out if you have any questions.

Thank you for this excellent overview for planning a Baja adventure. This was very helpful!

What is your recommendation on bringing cash in terms of how much? I’m planning to be there from next week until the second week in March. I have a wedding to go to in Cabo the third week in February, any advice on how to handle this for cash/ATM/credit card usage?

Do any of the established campgrounds take credit cards? It’s hard to find info on this aspect – I don’t use Facebook so I’ve had trouble finding blogs with these details thanks!

Hey, I really wanna do this trip but I am on a tight budget. How much would it cost to do the trip in 1.5 to 2 weeks with camping. Obviously I want to see the whales and stay at nice beaches and a few nights at a nice air bnb in la Paz. How much would that be with van rental and camping supply’s? (I plan on renting a van in Mexico for cheaper insurance)

Thank you so much. This is too useful

Thank you for your posting and sharing your experience. One question could I do it with my well equipped Honda Civic and a tent with canopy for shade?

This was written by a Bearfoot Theory contributor, and I have not done it myself. But my understanding is that you can do it in 2wd. You’ll just have to make sure you stick to more well-traveled paths. With that said, I’d do some extra research to see what other people say.

The Perfect 2024 Baja California Sur Road Trip Itinerary

12/27/2023 by Kristin Addis 6 Comments

The plane glided overhead, me eagerly watching the landscape below as we made for Cabo, cerulean lagoon after rolling mountains populating the landscape of the peninsula. 

One could see the entire width of Baja from the window seat. The mountains made way for washes, carved by water that used to roam through it in abundance, now literal wrinkles in time for wild mile after wild mile of that arid desert. Home to cacti, low bushes, and a surprising abundance of life both in the mountains and the sea, I was witnessing the rugged beauty of Baja California Sur unfold. 

I had two weeks ahead of me to road trip through Baja California Sur in Mexico, beginning in San Jose del Cabo. Since I didn’t get to head north this time around, I have invited Sally from Sally Sees , who visited most of the beautiful spots that I couldn’t make it to on this trip to share her experience. Here’s an epic Baja Sur itinerary for you: 

Table of Contents

1. Todos Santos

Upon landing in SJD, G and I picked up the rental car (more on avoiding scams later in this post) and immediately made our way for dreamy Todos Santos. 

Translating to ‘all saints,’ — which is a nice name, no? — Todos Santos is a designated pueblo magico, or ‘magic town’ in Baja. With its sweeping views of the Pacific and bird’s eye views of whales breaching on their way south, this artsy little town fits its designation.

To be honest I just chilled the F out in Todos Santos. The beach isn’t swimmable, due to big waves and rocks, but this is something you get used to in Baja. Book a place with a view and a pool and you’re set ( I loved this one! ).

Things to do in Todos Santos: 

• Hike the Sugar Port Trail: Get gorgeous views on this 2-mile hike along the coastline. Check the starting point here.
• 4×4: Want to access the wild side? The mountains are right there, too, and lots of fun 4×4 roading that those terrible rental cars can’t do for you! Rent in town or take a Jeep tour and let someone show you the best spots.
• Surf: Just south you’ll find a surfing wave if you’re into it, or consider hiking to palm beach for a lovely beach day.

Where to Eat in Todos Santos:

• Seafood: Santos Pecados Restaurant & Bar, Todos Santos not only has amazing service, but amazing seafood! The tequila fish is to die for (and doesn’t taste like tequila, don’t worry).
• Brunch: The vibe is on point at La Esquina Todos Santos. It’s mostly outdoors, open-air and has veggie and healthy options as well as great breakfast. There’s a farmer’s market on Sunday, too!
• Tacos: Tacos El Poblano in the evening for cheap al pastor and Tacos George’s for fish tacos during the day. They’re right next to each other with opposite hours.
• Dessert: Baja Tasty, near Santos Pecados, has amazing ice cream!

Where to Stay in Todos Santos:

The pool photo featured above was at Los Colibris Casitas , a gorgeous boutique hotel with plenty of privacy and awesome views. I loved the King Suite!

La Paz, meaning ‘the peace’ — also a nice name, right? — is the best jumping off point for the gorgeous beach pictured above and whale shark swims.

La Paz is certainly bigger than Todos Santos, and I recommend you follow all traffic rules perfectly because the police are out in full force, but once in town you’ll see why people love La Paz. The Sea of Cortez is beautiful and it’s perfectly positioned for amazing sunsets.

Things to do in La Paz:

The Sea of Cortez is brimming with life, and depending on the season, you can swim with all kinds of amazing things out there. Keep in mind for Espiritu Santo you’ll be required to wear a life jacket, which some people won’t mind and others (like me) will mind a lot!

• Swim with Whale Sharks: La Paz’s whale-shark season runs annually from October to May. Unlike in Cancun , you don’t have to wear a life jacket in the water if you’re wearing a wetsuit. It’s tightly regulated, and the only way to see them is via boat tour. It was too windy when we were there to go, but Alonso tours were so responsive, upfront, and helpful and friends of mine who went with them later loved them. If you prefer to book in English, you can do so here . (BTW both are much cheaper than some of the bigger companies, and both are good!)
• Visit Isla Espiritu Santo: Swim with sea lions in beautiful bays on this trip. When I saw this island from the plane, I was dying to visit, but life jackets are required even in the water. I understand it’s a regulation, but that would ruin it for me. If that wouldn’t bother you, sign up to do it here . I’ve heard great things, and sea lions are so interactive!
• Visit Balandra Beach: You’ll need a vehicle for this one, or a taxi. Balandra has strict capacity limits and usually operates in two time slots, morning and afternoon. Check with your accommodation for the latest restrictions as they change frequently. Or, take a boat or jetski over from a neighboring beach. We found a tour guide on Pichilingue who just added us to his boat and dropped us off, then picked us back up five hours later for 500 MXN total for two people. Ask around, haggle, and find yourself a private stretch of sand – there’s a lot of it, see below:

What to Eat in La Paz:

• Bakery and BBQ: Vrentino Restaurant has delicious pies and cakes and their grilled fish and pulled pork were on point!

Where to Stay in La Paz:

Since we splurged a bit on other spots, we went budget in La Paz at Araiza Palmira , which was fine, especially for the price, but had I known strong winds would have meant we’d spend a lot more time inside, I would have booked Hotel Catedral with that awesome rooftop instead.

3. Magdalena Bay

Single-handedly the most amazing thing I have ever done in my life was to see the gray whales in Magdalena Bay.

Each year between January – March, gray whales migrate from the cool waters of Alaska to the warm, sheltered lagoons off the Pacific Coast of Baja to mate and give birth.  

But something really special and unusual happens down here. The gray whales in Baja are friendly and interactive.

They approach boats, stick their heads out of the water to look at you (spy-hopping) and welcome pats and kisses. No one really knows why, but the experience is completely ethical. The whales are free to move as they please, and if you don’t give them the attention they want, they will find another boat that will!

Things to do in Magdalena Bay

• Gray whale watching: It’s all about the whales! To see them, you will head into the bay on a panga (skiff-style boat) with a local captain. It’s a game of patience waiting to find whales, and sometimes they won’t be interested in playing or interacting. We saw lots of whales from a distance on our first day, but it was our second day that we had some amazing encounters with a mamma who spent hours with our boat. 
• Snorkeling the sardine run: Magdalena Bay is still worth visiting if you can’t make it for the whale season. Between October – December each year there is a sardine run, which draws in predators like marlins, sea lions, dolphins and sharks that you can snorkel, free dive or dive with.

Where to Eat and Stay in Magdalena Bay

We opted for a package with Magdalena Bay Whales , one of the local tour companies. We glamped for two nights on an island in Magdalena Bay and had all our meals home cooked for us. It was one of the greatest travel experiences we have ever had, and we can’t recommend this enough!

As soon as I saw the iconic photo of Mulege, with the river snaking through a grove of palm trees and arid mountains rising up in the background, I knew I had to visit.

Mulege is a very small town known as ‘the oasis town’, for its large freshwater source in the middle of the desert, the Rio Mulege (Mulege River).

A historic Jesuit mission, some of the best beaches in Baja and a picturesque oasis, there is enough in Mulege to see and do. But it’s also the perfect place to slow down, relax and take it easy.

Things to do in Mulege

• Visit the Misión Santa Rosalía de Mulegé: A Jesuit mission that was built here for its freshwater source. The main drawcard of the mission is the vantage point to see the river and the palm grove below.
• See the oasis in the desert : It is such a rare sight in Baja to see fresh water and lush greenery, the Rio Mulege really is an amazing spectacle. We wandered along the banks of the river near town, but the best view was from the mission.
• The incredible beaches of Bahia Concepcion : Between Loreto and Mulege is this enclosed bay, with dozens of empty beaches. Some of the best in Baja, the water is bright blue, calm and so scenic with tiny offshore islands and mountains everywhere you look.

Where to Eat in Mulege

• Beer and bar snacks: Mulege Brewing Company is the main watering hole in Mulege, with craft beers on tap, pizzas and other bar snacks.
• Street food stalls: For some cheap local tacos, burritos and aguas frescas, head to Mulege’s main plaza Jardin Corona and see what stalls are open.
• Mexican fare: Try Restaurant Bar Los Equipales for a typical Mexican restaurant with colourful tablecloths, all the usual suspects on the menu and friendly service.

Where to Stay in Mulege

• In town: There is nothing fancy in Mulege. Accommodation is typically in self-contained casita-style rooms. Clementine’s is the best option.
• On the beach: There are some really unique stays along the beach in Bahia Concepcion. Sleep on a sailboat in the bay or go glamping .

Loreto exceeded all our expectations and turned out to be our favourite destination in Baja. We think it is completely underrated! There are some retired snowbirds who come down for the winter, but you avoid the crowds and craziness of Cabo, with a real laidback Baja vibe.

Loreto is the second of just two pueblo magicos in Baja Sur, and it totally deserves its title. It’s a small, historic town with charming plazas, a waterfront Malecon and so many outdoor adventures on sea and land.

Things to do in Loreto

• Explore the historic centro : Home to the first Jesuit mission in Baja, tree-lined pedestrian streets, cafes in the plaza and a waterfront Malecon boardwalk, we wandered aimlessly for hours.
• Hike Tabor Canyon : A stunning hike into a desert canyon, requiring some rock scrambling and a bit of intense climbing but we loved it. You can go solo ( follow this trail ) or take a local guide.
• Visit Isla Coronado: One of five islands in the Loreto Bay National Park, Coronado has the best beaches in Loreto. We took a boat tour out to the island, spotting dolphins, sea lions and blue-footed boobie birds on the way.
• Get underwater in the Sea of Cortez: Jacques Cousteau did not call this the aquarium of the world for nothing! Snorkel, free dive or scuba dive to discover sea lions, dolphins, whales, rays, turtles and other marine life. Blue Nation Baja is a great dive shop.
• Go blue whale watching: Witnessing the biggest animal in the world up close was an incredible experience. From February – March blue whales hang out in the Bay of Loreto. We learnt so much from the marine biologist on our tour with Loreto Sea & Land .
• Visit the San Javier Mission: The one-hour drive into the desert was so scenic. Another Jesuit mission, built in the middle of nowhere because there was a freshwater source there. The colonial-style building in the desert landscape was so unique. Drive your rental car or take a tour.

Where to Eat in Loreto

• Tacos: El Rey del Taco is a Loreto institution with the best Baja-style fish tacos. Asadero Súper Burro is the go-to for meat tacos, with juicy arrachera and asado.
• Seafood: El Caloron serves up all kinds of seafood, overlooking the waterfront on the Malecon. Hotel Oasis does a clam bake buffet on the beach every Saturday night.
• Coffee: La Route café in the plaza was some of the nicest coffee we had in Baja.
• Desserts: La Creperia for amazing crepes with all kinds of toppings. Try a traditional southern Mexican marquesita from Mare Lindo food truck (check their Facebook for their current location).

Where to Stay in Loreto

• Top end: There are some lovely boutique hotels in Loreto. Many resorts are out of town, but it’s worth staying in the heart of the action. Try Posada Las Flores or La Mision Loreto.
• Budget-friendly: There are some cute apartments on Airbnb for something private but affordable. We stayed in this apartment and it was the perfect location.

6. La Ventana

La Ventana is a favorite for kite boarders and lovers of the ocean. I heard it’s so-named for the window of time in the morning before the winds pick up and create the perfect conditions for kiters.

There was a weeklong wind storm that foiled most of my plans for the Sea of Cortez and Isla Cerralvo, which doesn’t have the life jacket requirement.

Though I didn’t see as much as I’d hoped, we nearly managed to get in with a HUGE pod of dolphins and we swam with sea lions as well. You can see some of it in the video below:

When the conditions are better, I’ve seen amazing videos with Orcas, Sperm Whales, and big fish. It’s enough to make me want to try again!

Things to do in La Ventana:

• Snorkel and freedive: Isla Cerralvo is typically pretty good for swimming with sea lions and having better clarity than other areas closer to shore for snorkeling. Again, I got unlucky when I went, but we still swam with a few of these guys. It’s best to book this directly with a boat captain, as hotels will double the price. Check out my where to stay section for help on getting a cheaper (and just as good) boat.
• Kite Board: La Ventana is famous as a kiting spot. Don’t know how? No worries, take some lessons from Girl on a Board .
• Mountain Bike: This isn’t so much my sport, but if you’re into it, there are many trails through the mountains that frame La Ventana.
• Check out the hot springs: They’re right on the beach! Find them here . Be careful, some of the areas are suuuuper hot!

What to Eat in La Ventana:

• Tacos: The best tacos I had in Baja Sur were right here . It’s just a little yellow stand with a friendly female owner and 20-pesos taco heaven.
• Seafood: Mariscos El Cone has yummy grilled fish and the portions are huge!
• Pizza: If you want some pasta or pizza, San Siro – Risto.Pizza.Bar does it well!

Where to Stay in La Ventana:

I stayed at an Airbnb (pictured above) that was a little off the beaten path but beautiful and affordable. I loved the landscaping, the remoteness, the sunrise and sunset views, and the cool way it was constructed into little pods! Ask the host to help you book a boat excursion directly with a captain.

7. Santiago

This desert oasis in the interior of Baja Sur was magical, and I highly recommend checking out the hot springs and the Canon de la Zorra. Consider spending the night , as well!

It’s a dirt road for much of the drive out of Santiago, but it was passable in our chevy sedan rental. I know things can change after the rain, so reconsider this trip if it’s been pouring lately.

Things to do in Santiago:

• Sol De Mayo: The waterfall pictured above is truly magical. The water is crisp, there are several crystal clear pools of water, and bonus, there are little fish in there who will nibble your feet – hey natural fish spa! Entrance is 150 mxn per person via the Rancho Ecologico Sol De Mayo , which I recommend staying at, too!
• Santa Rita Hot Spring: There are two hot springs in the area, but this is the prettier of the two. Access it via San Jorge. It’s easy to hit both the waterfall and the hot spring in an afternoon! Entrance is 150 mxn per person, and you can camp here as well. Avoid visiting on weekends when it can get busy. It’s also closed on Wednesdays.
• Canyon tours: I didn’t do this, so can’t recommend a specific tour, but if you’re down for canyoning and going through caves, you can book a tour in Santiago or nearby to do this!

Where to Stay in Santiago:

You can camp at the Santa Rita Hot Springs if you have your own gear, or you can spend the night at the Rancho at the waterfall on Airbnb . There’s no electricity, but it looks like a wonderful experience and one I’d probably do next time!

8. San Jose Del Cabo

I have a confession to make, I stayed at an all inclusive in San Jose Del Cabo and I honestly loved it, though I felt torn, too!

My reason for going back down to Cabo was to swim with sharks out of Cabo San Lucas, but I don’t find that Cabo San Lucas has many redeeming qualities, so I decided to book Garrett and I into a fancy hotel in San Jose with a gorgeous view. I honestly hadn’t realized until after I booked it that it was an all inclusive!

The great part: How easy it was to just relax and enjoy the surroundings. We didn’t have to think about anything, and I thought that the food was good.

The bad part? All inclusive tends to inspire a lot of excess and therefore tend to be quite wasteful, I also didn’t appreciate all of the plastic that they used in the hotel. I’m talking everything from shampoo bottles to the device you use to order room service (that has to be torn out of the plastic to charge it anyways) were wrapped up. I really wish they wouldn’t!

That said, for one night of bliss, we were super careful to only order what we would eat, and if you’d like the same experience, this is how I paid for it entirely in points, and this is where you can book at yourself.

Things to do in San Jose Del Cabo:

There’s all kinds of sea life at the end of the peninsula where the Sea of Cortez meets the Pacific. At any given time of year, you could see whales, different kinds of sharks, Mobula rays, and more.

I recommend freediving with sharks with Baja Shark Experience, who also run Magdalena Bay trips. The trip was a bit pricey, but totally worth it when we got to swim with a blue shark for over 2 hours! 

Road trip itinerary

When planning your Baja Sur road trip, you have two options in terms of the route:

1. Do a round trip, renting and returning a car from the same place. SJD (Los Cabos International Airport) is the best place for this, and you will fly in and out of this airport.

2. Do a one-way rental, starting from Los Cabos and returning the car in Loreto. You will fly into SJD and fly out of LTO Loreto International Airport.

Our road trips were both return trips, starting and finishing in Cabo, and the route we shared here is for a return trip.

But if you want to do a one-way trip, we would recommend this route:

• San Jose del Cabo
• Todos Santos
• Magdalena Bay

Renting a car at the airport in San Jose Del Cabo

If you’ve ever rented a car before in Mexico , you’ll know that what you see is not what you get in terms of the price online. Even if they promise that it includes all of the insurance, you will still arrive in Mexico only to be told that the insurance costs extra. I’m always prepared for this in Cancun , but in Baja Sur it’s the worst, where the price can quadruple.

For this reason, I recommend not booking and paying for a car ahead of time, but rather haggling in person when you’re there. Make sure that you get everything clearly in writing, do calculations for the currency rate, and film the car before renting. It’s one of the more scammy rental experiences I’ve had – just Google any car rental agency down there and you’ll see nothing but one star reviews. But if you know how to play the game you’ll be fine. We were able to get a 16 day sedan rental from Sixt for $480, which wasn’t bad!

The best way to get a good price is to take a van to Hertz or Sixt and negotiate in person, or only talk to the people at the actual labeled booths right near the exit of the airport. Always be willing to walk away.

It’s annoying, but it’s just the way it’s done down there!

Renting or returning a car in Loreto

There are a number of car rental agencies at the airport in Loreto. If you don’t want to do a round trip and drive all the way back to San Jose del Cabo, you can coordinate to pick your car up in Cabo and return it in Loreto or vice versa.

The same rules apply about the confusing pricing and insurance add-ons if you’re picking up a car in Loreto.

Loreto has a small international airport that has limited flights within Mexico and to some US and Canadian cities, so you can start or end your Baja California Sur road trip there.

READ NEXT: Baja Norte vs. Baja California Sur, which one is better?

All in all, Baja has so many adventures, and there’s something enchanting about the way the cacti stretch right out to the sea, and this road trip through Baja Sur gives you an amazing taste of it. Enjoy the starry nights, the calmness, and the amazing aquatic adventures!

About Sally: Sally Rodrick is the voice behind Sally Sees . She has spent months travelling in Mexico and Central America, and helps thousands of readers discover the magic of Latin America. Sharing detailed guides to inspire and equip them with the knowledge they need to plan their own epic adventures in this incredible part of the world.

About Kristin Addis

Kristin Addis is the founder and CEO of Be My Travel Muse, a resource for female travelers all around the world since 2012. She's traveled solo to over 65 countries and has brought over 150 women on her all-female adventure tours from Botswana to the Alaskan tundra.

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12/18/2020 at 8:38 pm

Another great write-up of a trip I’ve always wanted to do, although I think, given the time, I’d prefer to drive down from California, rather than fly. Did you guys have many problems driving around in the bigger cities?

Kristin says

12/20/2020 at 3:54 pm

The police pulled us over for ‘running a yellow’ in La Paz, which is obviously not against the law but he just wanted a bribe. I’d just show your license rather than handing it over and only keep a small amount of money in your wallet to show, like 100-200, to get it squared away if it does happen. Just keep talking and keep it light. The longer you keep him talking the more he’ll just want to take what you offer and get it over with.

12/24/2020 at 1:09 pm

Good advice – thanks!

01/15/2021 at 7:14 pm

Thank you for this. Very Helpful

Claire says

07/02/2021 at 3:31 pm

Hi, Thanks for this info, super helpful! I have a question, do you know if there is always water in the santiago waterfalls? Or is that seasonal?

07/03/2021 at 10:29 am

I believe it’s always going.

Baja California Road Trip: Your Perfect Itinerary

Disclaimer: This post contains affiliate links. At no cost to you, I might earn a small commission if you make a purchase through the links in this article. 

Baja California road trip is one of the most fun experiences in Mexico!

Spanning 760 miles south of the US border, Baja California is a land of contrasts. The dry, seemingly empty desert is home to lush fruit orchards, hidden oases, and mountain chains with deep canyons that are home to ancient petroglyphs.

Driving in Baja might feel like you are in the middle of nowhere, but this is not true: it’s a popular destination that attracts millions of tourists, and while distances are long, exploring this region is a lot of fun!

In this article, I will give you a detailed overview of how to plan your trip and make sure you don’t miss any highlights of this vast area.

Baja California road trip: A step-by-step guide

Day 1: Arrive at San Jose Del Cabo International Airport 

If you are starting your Baja California road trip from the south, begin your trip in Cabo San Lucas, the main tourist hub of the region. When you arrive in Cabo , you can rent your car near San Jose Del Cabo Airport and spend a couple of days in the area. 

✅ CHECK CAR RENTALS IN CABO SAN LUCAS AIRPORT

Make a stop in San Jose Del Cabo

Where to stay: One and Only Palmilla

San Jose Del Cabo is a small cousin of Cabo San Lucas and has a more residential feel to it.

While San Jose Del Cabo was overlooked by many visitors not so long ago, things are quickly changing, as more tourists stop here to explore its Art Walk, and enjoy the cute downtown and main square. 

There are also many beachfront hotels in San Jose Del Cabo that are perfect alternatives to pricey resorts in Cabo San Lucas. It also has a turtle conservation program that allows visitors to release newly hatched turtles into the ocean. 

Day 2-3: Spend a few days in Cabo San Lucas

Where to stay: Me Cabo  

Although Cabo San Lucas is mostly known for its resorts, this popular destination has so much more to offer! You could easily spend a few days enjoying some of the best things to do in Cabo San Lucas.

Here’s a brief overview of some of the popular activities in the area:

Best things to do in Cabo San Lucas

• Los Arcos – the famous arch is a trademark image of Cabo and is a must-stop. You can catch a boat ride to Los Arcos from the Cabo marina for about 300-500 Pesos. 
• Sailing tour – When visiting Cabo, don’t forget to take a sailing tour! There are all kinds of sailing tours, like sunset tours , kayaking and snorkeling tours , and party tours . 
• Kayaking/paddle boarding – One of the most popular activities in Cabo that is typically done early morning before the waves pick up. Book a fun kayaking tour here .
• Visiting local beaches – Cabo San Lucas is home to several beaches that you should visit during your trip. Don’t forget to spend some time beach hopping in the area. 

Best tours in Cabo San Lucas

Day 4-5: go hiking in santiago/dive in cabo pulmo national park.

Santiago is a small town about 50 minutes north of Cabo San Lucas that makes for a perfect stop on your road trip. This hidden gem is home to many cool trails in the Sierra De La Laguna Mountains and amazing hot springs.

👉 Many travelers miss Santiago, and I also had no idea about it, until a local told me about this place. Although it’s not as famous as other places, it’s absolutely worth a stop.

Cabo Pulmo National Park

As an alternative, you can go diving or snorkeling in Cabo Pulmo National Park outside of Cabo San Lucas. Cabo Pulmo is a popular getaway with many people coming here to enjoy water sports and camping.

✅ The road to Cabo Pulmo is a bit rough, so it’s better to rent a high clearance vehicle .

Day 6: Todos Santos

Where to stay: Las Nubes

Todos Santos is a charming small town and one of the few pueblos magicos in Baja California.

Many visitors love Todos Santos for its small-town vibe, slower pace of life, and access to some of the best surfing beaches like Playa Cerritos.

There’s a growing ex-pat community in Todos Santos, and many restaurants here have menus in English catering to visitors from the United States and Canada.

When you visit Todos Santos, stay around until the sunset – the most beautiful time when the town glows in the golden light. You can also watch the sunset at Playa Cachorro, the closest beach right outside of town.

Spend the night in one of Todos Santos hotels like the gorgeous Hotel San Cristobal along the beach.

Optional stop in Playa Cerritos for surfing

Alternatively, you could stay in one of the hotels along Playa Cerritos near Todos Santos, one of the most popular surfing beaches in Baja California. This is a popular destination with several restaurants, a surfing school, and various services along the beach.

Day 7-8: Explore La Paz

Where to stay: Posada De Las Flores

After spending a night in Todos Santos, arrive in La Paz, the capital of Baja California Sur, and a gateway to adventure. While Cabo is known for its party scene, La Paz is famous for its outdoor activities like scuba diving , swimming with sea lions , and sandboarding along the dunes.

La Paz is also home to Playa Balandra, one of the most beautiful beaches in Mexico just 25 minutes away by car. 

✅ Check my complete guide to visiting Balandra Beach .

Best things to do in La Paz, Mexico

• Isla Espíritu Santo – Designated as Biosphere Reserve by UNESCO in 1995, Isla Espiritu Santo is home to tons of wildlife including various birds, sea lions, and dolphins. Most tours to Isla Espíritu Santo include a stop at islotes, a group of islands where you can swim with adorable sea lions.

Want to snorkel with sea lions? Book your tour of Isla Espiritu Santo here .

• La Paz Malecón – El Malecón aka the Main Street of La Paz is located along the waterfront and is perfect for watching sunsets. It’s also home to many restaurants and tour companies.
• El Mogote Dunes – Located about 30 minutes outside of La Paz, El Mogote Dunes are popular for sand boarding and sunset watching.

Book a fun sand boarding tour of El Mogote here .

• Whale sharks – Whale sharks are not your typical sharks, so don’t get scared! They are the largest fish in the world and can grow up to 60 feet long! Swimming with whale sharks is completely safe, as they are just gentle giants. 

✅ This tour led by local marine biologist allows you to swim right next whale sharks!

Best tours in La Paz, Mexico

Day 9: Loreto

Where to stay: Hotel Oasis

After spending a couple of days in La Paz, continue driving to Loreto, a hidden gem of the region.

Loreto was one of my favorite stops in the region. The town has an interesting history and a beautiful church located in the Old Town. It’s a perfect place to take a break and enjoy a slower pace of life after being on the road for a couple of days.

If you have enough time, spend more than a day in Loreto because there is too much to do here. Like the rest of Baja California, Loreto offers top-notch opportunities for wildlife watching, but there’s also plenty of culture here.

Bahia De Loreto National Park

The jewel of the area, Bahia De Loreto National Park is made up of a group of islands that boast some of the most gorgeous beaches in Baja California. Malecón (aka the waterfront) is where you can hire a boat tour to explore one of the islands, or do a custom tour package that includes several islands.

Read: Can I pay with US dollars in Mexico?

Touring Bahia De Loreto National Park is a lot of fun because unlike touristy places like Playa Balandra, it has a wild and rugged feel to it. When I visited one of the islands, most boats had left by mid-day and I had the entire beach to myself, which was cool!

Day 10-11: Mulege

Where to stay: Hotel Cuesta Real

After visiting Loreto, continue your journey north toward Mulege , a sleepy village that is home to some of the most beautiful beaches in Baja. Mulege beaches are located within Bahia de Concepcion, and most of them have calm waters sheltered from big waves that are perfect for swimming and kayaking.

Most Mulege beaches also have campsites, facilities, and kayak rentals and you should spend a couple of days touring them.

After visiting Mulege, many visitors head straight to Guerrero Negro to see the whales, but there are also a couple of worthy stops along the road.

Day 12: Santa Rosalia

A small village around the coast, Santa Rosalia has some interesting history that dates back to mining and a beautiful church. If you have enough time, it’s worth a quick stop on your Baja California road trip, but if not, you can also stop here for a couple of hours before continuing your drive north.

San Ignacio – a tiny mission town, San Ignacio is set on the lake – something you don’t see much when traveling inland.

Day 13-14: Take a whale watching tour in Guerrero Negro

Where to stay: Hotel Los Caracoles

Guerrero Negro is the last place you will visit in Baja California Sur before arriving in Baja California (or Baja Norte). It is a small industrial town known for its salt flats and whale watching.

If you are visiting from December through April, stop in Guerrero Negro and go on a whale watching tour with one of the local operators.

👉 Most tourism in Guerrero Negro revolves around whale watching, and you won’t find much else here during the off-season. If you are visiting outside of the whale watching season, you could just stop at salt flats to snap some photos before continuing your journey north.

Guerrero Negro is a good place to crash for the night after a lengthy drive through the desert.

PRO TIP: You will be on the road for a while when you are traveling from Guerrero Negro to Ensenada, so prepare to spend most of your day on the road.

Day 15: Ensenada

Where to stay: Playa Hermosa Bed and Breakfast

Ensenada is less than 2 hours south of Tijuana and makes a great stop on your way to the popular Valley De Guadalupe. It will be your first major stop after you arrive in Baja from the U.S.

Whether you want a laid-back trip or an adventure-packed getaway, Ensenada has it all. Here you can take a whale watching tour in winter months, explore Playa Hermosa , hit the bars and visit La Bufadora , a natural geyser that’s best observed during the high tide.

🚗 You will need to drive about 45 minutes from Ensenada to reach La Bufadora, but the drive is well worth it, as you will enjoy the spectacular view of the water shooting through the volcanic rocks!

Day 16: Valle De Guadalupe

Where to stay: Encuentro Guadalaupe Ecological Reserve

One of the top wine regions in Mexico, Valle De Guadalupe is one of the most popular places to visit in Baja California. It’s a great spot to recharge and enjoy the tranquil scenery, even if you are not a wine lover.

Valle De Guadalupe is often compared to the famous Napa Valley near San Francisco , but prices here are just a fraction of Napa and it’s nowhere near as crowded.

Best guided tours of Valle De Guadalupe

Finish your trip in tijuana.

Where to stay: Hotel Palacio Azteca

After visiting Valle De Guadalupe, arrive in Tijuana, a border city that has a seedy reputation according to what you have seen on the news in America. While Tijuana does have violence, most of it is tied to drug trafficking, and unless you are going to get involved with drugs, your chances of staying safe are much higher.

Or Mexicali

Alternatively, you can also finish your adventure in Mexicali , the capital of Baja California that enjoys a much safer reputation than Tijuana, and sits across the border from California’s Imperial Valley.

Mexicali is a fun place to visit as it boasts a couple of historic landmarks like La Chinesca, the largest China Town in Mexico , Art Passage Mexicali, and the spectacular Algodones Dunes which are about 40 minutes away from Mexicali by car.

MISTAKES TO AVOID WHEN PLANNING YOUR BAJA ROAD TRIP

• Do not cram your road trip in 7 days – If time is short, this could be tempting, but you should stay away from doing it because you will miss out on so many things to do here! Due to the sheer size of the peninsula and long driving distances, you are bound to miss things, if you have 7 days or less for your road trip.
• Stock up on water and snacks . Parts of Baja California are far apart from each other and you could be hundreds of miles from the nearest gas station. 
• Fill up your car – When driving around Baja, you could be on the road for a while before finding a gas station. Always have a full tank of gas.

👉 There’s one stretch of the road between the town of El Rosario south of Ensenada in Baja California and Guerrero Negro in Baja California Sur, where you will not find any gas stations. Research the locations of gas stations ahead of your road trip. 

• Take your time driving – Some areas of Baja California have narrow winding roads. To stay safe, take your time driving, and keep your high beams off if you are driving at night. 
• Watch out for animals – Sometimes, cows and other domestic animals could appear out of nowhere on Baja roads. This has become somewhat of a problem, so watch out while you are driving, especially at night. 

Baja Road Trip: FAQ’s

Where to begin your Baja California road trip?

You can begin your itinerary either in the north after crossing the border in Tijuana, Tecate, or Mexicali, or after flying to Cabo San Lucas International Airport (SJD). If you fly into Cabo San Lucas, you will need to rent a vehicle for your trip. From Cabo San Lucas , you can make your way up north, and explore some of the best things to do in Baja California.

I did my road trip from Cabo to Tijuana, but you can also do it by arriving via Tijuana if you cross the land border.

Where to rent a car for your Baja road trip?

Most car rental companies in Cabo San Lucas are near Cabo San Lucas International Airport, and renting a car in Cabo San Lucas right after you arrive is a good idea.

Why rent a car with Discover Cars?

DiscoverCars  is a great platform for renting cars in Cabo San Lucas, La Paz and Tijuana. They work with major car rental companies in Mexico and offer some of the best prices on many types of vehicles.

You can also add a full Mexican insurance for you car rental for less than $10 per day when booking your car with  DiscoverCars .

✅ Check my guide to renting a car in Cabo San Lucas .

How many days do I need for my Baja California road trip?

I recommend no less than 2 weeks for your road trip. This is a vast region, with some of the best beaches in Mexico, world-class diving, and opportunities for hiking and mountain biking. You will need a good amount of time to explore everything that Baja has to offer.

Is Baja California safe to visit?

While the Baja is generally safe to visit, traveling around the region comes with some caveats. Stay on main roads and limit your driving to day time. Avoid remote areas with bad roads, as it can take a while to get help if anything happens.

Is Baja California in Mexico?

The Baja California Peninsula is in northwestern Mexico and consists of two states, Baja California Sur and Baja California, also known as Baja Norte. Although Baja California shares border with California and Arizona, it’s not part of the U.S.

Do you need a passport to go to Baja?

If you are traveling to Baja California from the United States, or any other country, you will need a passport. Whether you are traveling to this Mexican state by car, plane or boat, you will need to show your passport when you arrive at the customs.

What is the best time of year to visit Baja California?

The best time to visit Baja is from December through early May. During this time, you can enjoy mild temperatures, with plenty of sunshine and avoid the scorching hot weather of summer months as well as the hurricane season.

Why visit Baja California?

Baja California is one of the most beautiful parts of Mexico with more than 300 days of sunshine, amazing surfing beaches, and friendly locals. You will be able to enjoy cool hiking, snorkeling, and a slow pace of life which makes this region attractive for so many travelers.

What is Baja California known for?

Baja California is known for its golden-sand beaches, amazing wildlife and recreational opportunities. It’s a popular tourist destination thanks to its proximity to the United States, with tourists coming here year-round.

Do you need a car in Baja California?

This is a vast region with big distances between cities and limited public transportation. It’s essential to have a car, if you want to explore this region and visit some of the best beaches, explore scenic hikes and watch wildlife.

What is it like to drive around Baja California?

Driving in Baja California is a real adventure. This is a popular region with RV’ers, snowbirds and van lifers, and adventurous travelers. Major roads around Baja look desolate, but they are well-traveled since this is a popular part of Mexico for camping and hiking.

When you drive around Baja, some roads have more traffic than others, and your phone signal could disappear in some places, so it’s a good idea to stock up on food and water, and fill up your car, as you could be a few hundred miles away from the nearest gas station.

Baja California road trip: final word

Road tripping Baja California is an amazing adventure.

This is one of the most diverse regions of Mexico with a blend of desert, incredible beaches , and lush groves create stunning landscapes. Whether you do your road trip north or south, take time exploring this part of Mexico, because it’s just too beautiful to rush through. 

The Ultimate Road Trip Guide Through Baja California

Embarking on a road trip through Baja California offers travelers a unique opportunity to explore some of Mexico's most iconic landscapes, vibrant cultures, and hidden gems. This 775-mile-long peninsula, bordered by the Pacific Ocean and the Sea of Cortez, is a mosaic of stunning scenery, ranging from desert expanses to rugged coastline, all tied together by charming towns and rich traditions. In this ultimate road trip guide, we'll take a deep dive into the experiences, recommendations, and essential tips for making the most of your adventure through this captivating region.

The journey typically begins in Tijuana, the bustling border city just beyond the U.S. border. Tijuana serves as a vibrant gateway filled with culture, art, and sensational cuisine. By spending a day here, travelers can immerse themselves in the local atmosphere, sampling street tacos, enjoying artisan coffee, and exploring trendy neighborhoods like Avenida Revolución, which is lined with shops, galleries, and nightclubs. After enjoying the dynamic pulse of Tijuana, it's time to hit the open road, filled with anticipation for what lies ahead.

As you traverse the scenic highways, the enchanting landscapes of Baja California unroll before your eyes. The coastal Route 1, peppered with diverse terrains, provides an unforgettable backdrop for your odyssey. An early stop may include Rosarito, approximately 16 miles south of Tijuana, celebrated for its beautiful beaches and vibrant nightlife. Once a quiet fishing village, Rosarito has transformed into a hotspot for both tourists and locals, boasting beachside restaurants and surf-friendly waves. The area also features local artisan markets where you can find handmade crafts and souvenirs while enjoying the warm sun and refreshing sea breeze.

Traveling further south, you arrive in Ensenada, a quaint port town known for wine and culinary delights. Situated about 68 miles from Tijuana, Ensenada's vibrant culture and stunning coastal views make it a popular stop. Here, visitors can explore La Bufadora—a marine geyser situated on the rugged coastline—and the bustling fish market, where fresh catch and delightful seafood dishes await. Ensenada is also at the center of the burgeoning Valle de Guadalupe, Baja California's wine region, where travelers can embark on wine tours to taste local vintages and enjoy pairings with gourmet meals. This experience not only highlights the oenological prowess of the area but also allows for breathtaking vineyard views amidst the backdrop of the Sierra de Juárez.

Continuing your journey south, the Quintessential Baja experience awaits in the charming coastal village of San Miguel. Here, a serene atmosphere prevails, providing travelers with a welcoming respite from the highway. Visitors can stroll along its beautiful beaches, engage with local artisans, and relish the art and culture that flourishes in this quaint locale. The community is also known for its welcoming locals, often eager to share stories and traditions that capture the essence of Baja California's cultural tapestry.

As the road beckons onward, you arrive at the renowned town of San Felipe—a unique desert oasis nestled on the edge of the Sea of Cortez. Known for its laid-back ambiance and stunning beaches, San Felipe offers a chance to bask in the sun, engage in water sports, and observe the incredible array of marine life in the area. Be sure to catch the sunset, as the evening skies transform into a magnificent palette of colors reflecting off the tranquil waters. Additionally, San Felipe serves as a point of access for travelers wishing to further explore the impressive natural wonders of the nearby Sierra de San Pedro Mártir National Park, where you may encounter scenic hiking trails and stunning vistas.

The next leg of your adventure leads to the picturesque city of Guerrero Negro, a small town in the heart of the Baja area's unique natural landscape. Nestled among the salt flats, Guerrero Negro serves as an ideal stop for whale watching during the migration season, when gray whales journey to the warm lagoons of Baja California for calving. This incredible spectacle draws tourists from around the globe, presenting a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to witness these majestic creatures up close. The surrounding area, characterized by its otherworldly scenery and unique fauna, also invites exploration into the more remote habitats that exemplify the ecological richness of Baja California.

Upon further travel, you come to the breathtaking Bahia de Los Angeles, a stunning coastal spot cradled between the Sierra de San Francisco and the deep blue waters of the Sea of Cortez. This remote fishing village is often overlooked but provides a serene escape for travelers seeking tranquility off the beaten path. Here, opportunities for kayaking, snorkeling, and fishing abound, allowing visitors to immerse themselves in the unspoiled beauty of the region. The nearby island of Isla Angel de la Guarda is perfect for day trips, offering pristine waters and opportunities to snorkel among a plethora of marine species.

As you journey down the peninsula, the bustling town of Mulegé awaits. This charming oasis is located near the confluence of the Mulegé River and the Sea of Cortez, surrounded by palm trees and stunning desert landscapes. The town boasts distinct adobe architecture and a relaxed atmosphere, perfect for wandering through its picturesque streets. Mulegé is particularly known for its historical 18th-century Mission of Santa Rosalía de Mulegé, providing insight into the region's colonial past. Additionally, the nearby Lagoons of San Ignacio are renowned for their biodiversity and marine wildlife, presenting opportunities for eco-tours and photography.

Advancing southward brings you to the enchanting town of Santa Rosalía, notable for its unique history and architectural charm. The town showcases a blend of Mexican and French heritage, evident in its quaint buildings and bustling atmosphere. The famous Church of Santa Barbara, designed by the Eiffel Company, stands as a testament to the town's fascinating history and architectural allure. Don’t miss the chance to explore the vibrant local markets, where fresh produce and artisan goods abound. The surrounding landscape also invites exploration, with mountains and desert terrain offering opportunities for hiking and photography.

Traveling beyond Santa Rosalía, visitors are treated to the mesmerizing beauty of San Ignacio. Nestled amidst palm trees and steep canyons, San Ignacio is home to a stunning oasis and a charming mission church. The town's tranquility invites exploration, with opportunities for kayaking in the surrounding waters. This serene locale is a perfect place to unwind while taking in the breathtaking scenery, and the nearby San Ignacio Lagoon offers exceptional whale-watching experiences during the winter months.

As you approach the southern tip of the peninsula, the captivating city of La Paz comes into view. This vibrant capital of Baja California Sur captivates with its picturesque waterfront, lively arts scene, and rich cultural offerings. Explore the stunning Malecón, a bustling promenade lined with shops, restaurants, and sculptures that epitomize the spirit of La Paz. Visitors can partake in a diverse array of activities, from art galleries to delicious farm-to-table dining. La Paz also serves as a gateway to the nearby islands of Espiritu Santo and Partida, where unspoiled beaches and crystal-clear waters present countless opportunities for swimming, snorkeling, and adventure.

Continuing your journey ensures that your experiences grow richer with each passing mile. The diverse geographies and climates found in the Baja California region create an unparalleled tapestry of natural beauty and cultural heritage. Take time to soak in the sun while gazing out at the Pacific Ocean, marvel at the mountains that surround you, and relish the distinct charm that flows through every stop along the way. As the sun sets on your Baja California road trip, reflect on the memories you’ve captured—be it the laughter shared with friendly locals, the thrill of tasting tantalizing cuisine, or simply the serene beauty of this enchanting peninsula.

In planning your Baja California road trip, ensure that you have the proper travel documents, including valid passports and vehicle insurance that covers travel in Mexico. Road safety is paramount, and it’s crucial to keep your vehicle in good condition. While the highways are generally well-maintained, it's prudent to carry spare tires and tools, as some stretches may be remote. Embrace the laid-back culture and discover a road trip that allows you to connect with the land, the people, and the adventure that awaits you at every turn.

As you conclude your odyssey through Baja California, it’s easy to see why the region has captivated the hearts of countless travelers. The blend of awe-inspiring landscapes, rich cultural experiences, and the rich culinary scene creates a journey that resonates long after your adventure is over. Each town you discover, every flavor you taste, and the natural wonders you behold will etch themselves into your memory, ensuring that your heart remains tethered to this magnificent peninsula—the ultimate road trip destination. The experiences amassed here will serve as the foundation for future stories, adding to the tapestry of your travels. No doubt, Baja California will draw you back for yet another journey through its remarkable beauty and culture.

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Balandra Beach, a short drive from La Paz, is a serene spot for kayaking and stand-up paddleboarding.

Baja California Sur: The ultimate road trip

Eat traditional cuisine, shop local fare, and dive into the “the world’s aquarium” in southern Baja.

The margarita-fueled party scene in Cabo San Lucas may claim the limelight, but the Mexican state of Baja California Sur has a wealth of natural and cultural treasures. On the southern half of the Baja California Peninsula, discover an often-wild desert landscape juxtaposed against brilliant blue waters teeming with life. Along the east coast, the Sea of Cortez —dubbed “the world’s aquarium” by Jacques Cousteau —presents underwater adventures from snorkeling with the ocean’s largest fish to diving along a rejuvenated reef, a remarkable environmental success story. When you come up for air, take in sublime sunsets, taste traditional flavors at a taqueria, and track down secluded hot springs. The road less traveled awaits. 

Stop 1: Start with art

Less than 10 miles from Los Cabos International Airport, San José del Cabo lies at the south end of Baja California Sur near the confluence of the Pacific Ocean and the Sea of Cortez. The quieter, not-so-crazy sister city to Cabo San Lucas, San José del Cabo is known for Spanish colonial architecture, the massive circa-1730 mission cathedral, and the gallery-filled Art District. The city’s convivial Art Walk is held every Thursday evening from November through June, when the weather is practically perfect every day.

Click the image to enlarge the map of Baja California Sur.

Stop 2: Birds of a feather

Just to the south, find the San José del Cabo Estuary wildlife preserve. This peaceful place where the Río San José meets the ocean draws some 200 species of resident and migratory birds including wood storks, pelicans, egrets, herons, ibises, and hawks. Grab your camera or your binoculars, and rent a kayak for a paddle around the coastal lagoon. Or hoof it along the well-marked hiking path. ( Discover what Baja California is doing to save its fishing communities .)

Stop 3: Living large

A short drive southwest reveals one of the latest luxury resorts to spring up along the lively oceanfront corridor that stretches from San José del Cabo to Cabo San Lucas. At the Montage Los Cabos resort, edging Santa María Bay, head to the spa—40,000 square feet of bliss—for treatments such as the Baja Desert Cocoon, which harnesses the healthful properties of sage and agave. Then indulge in new takes on traditional fare at Mezcal restaurant before settling into an ocean-view suite.

Stop 4: Beyond the bash

Yes, Cabo San Lucas has a well-deserved reputation as a raucous party town. But it’s easy to ditch the drinking games for outdoor pursuits like parasailing, surfing, and (in winter) whale-watching. Whatever the time of year, don’t miss the striking El Arco rock formation at the tip of the peninsula, appropriately named Land’s End. Now you’ve earned that margarita at rocker Sammy Hagar’s Cabo Wabo Cantina .

Stop 5: Surf’s up

As you motor north along the Pacific Coast, the setting morphs from bustling to bucolic, giving a sense of local life in Baja California Sur. In El Pescadero, the annual Chili and Strawberry Festival, held in March, celebrates the crops grown here. Surfing is popular, with great breaks at Los Cerritos and San Pedrito. Bring a board to hang ten all day, or take a lesson at the Pescadero Surf Camp (boards provided), which offers overnight accommodations ranging from campsites to casitas.

Stop 6: Charmed, I’m sure

Farther up the western coast lies Todos Santos , designated by the Mexican government as one of the country’s Pueblos Mágicos , or magic towns, for its distinctive culture, history, and beauty. Check in to the 11-room Hotel California , not the inspiration for the famous Eagles tune but still a storied destination. Opened in 1950 by a Chinese immigrant who changed his name to Don Antonio Tabasco, the hotel was the first place in town to have ice, and thus cold beer, making it a local hot spot. Explore the galleries and shops of Todos Santos, and end your day at the beach, where sunset brings brilliant hues and, if you’re lucky, dolphin sightings.

Stop 7: Capital romps

Cross the peninsula to laid-back La Paz , the state capital and the gateway to the Sea of Cortez, with its seemingly endless water-focused adventures. Stay for a few days at Costa Baja Resort and Spa , and ask the concierge to arrange a snorkel with whale sharks, gentle giants that can reach 32 feet or more in length. Other options? Scuba diving with hammerhead sharks, moray eels, and sea lions at Isla Espíritu Santo or stand-up paddle boarding at secluded beaches such as Balandra. In town take a stroll along the famed, and newly renovated, Malecón promenade before tucking into tacos at El Sabroso.

Stop 8: Reel it in

Head south to the remote Hotel Punta Pescadero Paradise , overlooking the sea. At this resort, famed for its quiet allure and world-class sportfishing, expect to bag marlin, sailfish, or dorado—with the help of experienced guides—and then dine on your catch that evening.

Stop 9: Breeze please

Windsurfing and kitesurfing rule the waters 10 miles down the east coast at Los Barriles. Gear up at Vela Baja Adventure Sports , ExotiKite Kiteboarding , or Kiteboarding Baja School , which gives helpful tips on how to skim over the waves like a pro.

La Paz’s Costa Baja Resort and Spa staff can arrange snorkeling expeditions with whale sharks.

Stop 10: Finding the source

In the hills surrounding Santiago , embark on a treasure hunt along dirt roads to discover hidden hot springs. The El Chorro springs are easiest to reach, while the Santa Rita prove more challenging. Look for Cañón La Zorra (Fox Canyon) waterfall. Locals can help point the way.

Stop 11: The life aquatic

The big attraction near the tiny town of Cabo Pulmo is the Cabo Pulmo National Marine Park . Established in 1995, the 17,570-acre protected zone—part of a UNESCO World Heritage site—has revitalized sea life along a coral reef thought to be 20,000 years old. Suit up and dive down to meet groupers, turtles, eels, snappers, and sharks. ( Where to get up close with wildlife in Magdalena Bay. )

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Baja Vagabond

Ultimate Journey: My Baja California Mexico Road Trip

I’m heading out on a road trip down Baja California Mexico road trip, looking forward to seeing everything from the busy streets of Tijuana to the peaceful beaches and bays.

This journey is all about soaking in the sights, sketching a bit, and maybe finding a few unexpected stories along the way.

The plan is to hit up spots where the desert rolls right into the ocean, offering some pretty cool views and, hopefully, a chance to see some wildlife too. I’ll be keeping you all posted with sketches and tales from each stop.

This trip is more than just a getaway; it’s a chance to fill my sketchbook with memories of the landscapes and creatures I come across.

Let’s see what kind of scenes I can capture and share from this adventure.

Itinerary for my Baja California Mexico Road Trip

Day 1-2: tijuana to ensenada.

• Start in Tijuana : Explore the cultural landmarks and vibrant street art. It’s a great place to feel the energetic pulse of the city.
• Drive to Ensenada : Just about an hour and a half drive. Here, you can visit the famous La Bufadora, a natural marine geyser, and the surrounding markets. The beaches are beautiful for an evening walk or sketching the sunset.

Day 3-4: Ensenada to San Quintín

• Valle de Guadalupe : Spend your morning visiting this region known for its exquisite wineries and vineyards—a perfect spot for landscape sketches.
• Travel to San Quintín : Known for its volcanic landscapes and beautiful bays, it’s an ideal place for wildlife watching and sketching.

Day 5-6: San Quintín to Guerrero Negro

• Whale Watching : Guerrero Negro is famous for its whale watching tours, especially between December and April, when gray whales migrate here to breed. It’s a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to see these majestic creatures up close.

Day 7-8: Guerrero Negro to Loreto

• Bahía de los Ángeles : Detour here for stunning beaches and the chance to see whale sharks and dolphins. The contrast between the desert and sea is striking.
• Arrive in Loreto : Explore this charming town, visit the Misión de Nuestra Señora de Loreto, and take a boat trip to the nearby islands for snorkeling and marine life sketches.

Day 9-10: Loreto to La Paz

• Drive to La Paz : Stop by the beautiful beaches along the way, like Playa Balandra, known for its crystal-clear waters and shallow bays.
• Espíritu Santo Island : Take a day trip from La Paz to this island for incredible wildlife encounters, including sea lions and a myriad of fish species, perfect for detailed nature sketches.

Day 11-12: La Paz to Cabo San Lucas

• Explore La Paz : Spend an extra day enjoying the city’s vibrant waterfront promenade and the local art scene.
• Cabo San Lucas : Finish your trip in this resort city known for its beaches, water-based activities, and the famous Arch at Land’s End.

How to prepare for a Baja California Road Trip

As I prepare for my Baja California Mexico road trip, it’s crucial to gather all the information and resources I’ll need to ensure a smooth and unforgettable journey.

Whether you’re an avid surfer looking to catch some waves, a motorcyclist eager to cruise the scenic routes, or simply someone who appreciates the beauty of nature and the thrill of exploration, these resources will help you plan your adventure effectively.

For those drawn to the surf, the Surfer’s Guide to Baja offers an in-depth look at the best spots to hit the waves. And, considering the importance of safety and preparation, checking out the details on Baja Mexico Motorcycle Insurance and Baja Mexico Car Insurance is a must for anyone planning to ride or drive through this stunning region.

The enchanting city of La Paz, known as the Pearl of Mexico, is a must-visit, and you can plan your stay with the help of La Paz: The Pearl of Mexico and La Paz Mexico Itinerary . These guides offer insights into the city’s best attractions and hidden gems.

Staying informed about Baja Mexico Travel Restrictions is also essential, especially to navigate the current travel landscape responsibly. And for anyone wondering about the best time to embark on this adventure, Best Time to Visit Baja provides valuable information on when to go for the best weather and experiences.

Understanding practical aspects of the trip, such as Baja Mexico Gas Prices , can help with budgeting and planning your route. Meanwhile, for a comprehensive overview of frequently asked questions, Baja California Travel FAQ is an excellent resource.

The unique landscapes of the Baja California Desert are a highlight for many travelers, and exploring this area is a once-in-a-lifetime experience. Learn more about this stunning ecosystem at Baja California Desert .

For insurance needs, whether it’s for your ride or overall travel insurance, consider checking Ride Baja Insurance and Baja Bound Insurance for options that provide peace of mind.

Lastly, for those venturing to the artistic and culturally rich town of Todos Santos, Things to Do in Todos Santos offers a guide to making the most of your visit.

Each of these resources is designed to enhance your Baja California Mexico road trip, ensuring you’re well-prepared for every aspect of your adventure. From the practicalities of insurance and travel restrictions to the joys of discovering the best surf spots and scenic routes, this information will help you craft an unforgettable journey.

Updates for this itinerary

Once this trip wraps up, I have no doubt that my carefully planned itinerary will have morphed into something quite different. That’s the beauty of travel, isn’t it? The unexpected detours, and interesting stops stumbled upon by chance.

So, I fully expect to come back with a revised version of this itinerary, one enriched with all the real-life twists and turns my adventure took. I’ll share the spots that captured my heart unexpectedly and the moments that took my breath away – those experiences that just can’t be planned.

I’ll update my route to reflect the reality of traveling through Baja California, incorporating the lessons learned along the way. This updated itinerary will hopefully serve as a more authentic guide for those who wish to follow in my footsteps, complete with all the insider tips and must-see locations that I discovered.

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This Rare Earth

A travel resource for the adventurous and often-solo female

A Baja California Road Trip Guide: Baja Sur Mexico

Blog , Mexico , North America , Solo Travel / March 9, 2021 by Monica / 6 Comments

There isn’t anything quite like cruising down the desert roads of Baja Sur, Mexico. Glimmering blue waters in the Sea of Cortez and tall prickly cacti lining the roads and hillsides. A Baja California Road Trip is truly a magical experience! Read on for the most beautiful stops to make your Baja road trip unforgettable.

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Table of Contents

Why a Baja Road Trip?

It seems like the Caribbean side of Mexico is getting all the buzz these days. And, destinations like Cancun and Tulum in the Yucatan Peninsula are certainly beautiful – I can’t argue that!

But for me, there is just something so breathtaking about the tropical desert landscape of Baja. Perhaps it’s because I’ve lived in or near the deserts of California and Arizona for years and years. The desert has always been my favorite climate. The tall prickly cacti, the rugged and picturesque mountains, and even the incredible heat are all at the top of my list.

But don’t let all of my cacti-reminiscing fool you – Baja Sur also has some of the most stunning ocean vistas in Mexico. On my Baja California road trip, there were so many lovely places that surprised me – from shallow blue bays to pristine natural hot springs.

Baja California has so much more to offer than it’s reputation as a Spring Break destination implies. And, the best way to experience everything is to road trip Baja California at your own pace.

A Baja California Road Trip: The Best Stops in Baja Sur

Where To Start Your Baja Sur Road Trip

Though I do highly recommend a road trip through the entire Baja Peninsula, I understand that not everyone may have the time or interest to invest in that. This Baja Sur road trip can be done in as little as one week, or stretched into two weeks or more if you really want to take your time and enjoy some slow travel .

So, for the purposes of discovering Baja Sur specifically, I highly recommend flying into the Los Cabos Airport (SJD) . This will take you to the southernmost tip of the Baja Peninsula, where the world famous beaches of the Sea of Cortes are located.

Please note that the Baja road trip route referenced here my include some toll roads. Carry pesos on you at all times to be safe.

Stop #1: Los Cabos

Los Cabos is an area that contains two separate municipalities – Cabo San Lucas and San Jose del Cabo. Cabo San Lucas is a bit more loud and crowded, with tons of walkable shops and restaurants. San Jose del Cabo, on the other hand, is a bit more quiet and filled with locals, interesting architecture and art.

Click here for my in depth comparison of of Cabo San Lucas and San Jose del Cabo . They are very different, so depending on your personality, you will definitely prefer one over the other!

Whichever you choose, plan to spend at least two or three nights in the Los Cabos area. And, regardless of where you lay your head at night, you should absolutely check out both towns.

After enjoying the best of Cabo, plan to wake early on your day of departure. Allow yourself two hours on the road to reach your next destination:

Stop #2: Cabo Pulmo National park

Cabo Pulmo National Park is about two hours northeast of the Los Cabos area (depending on your exact starting point). The park opens at 8am daily, and I highly recommend arriving first thing!

You’ll get to experience the best of Cabo Pulmo without the heat or crowds. Plus, this will be one of the most picturesque ways to stretch your legs along the way.

This marine park covers over 17,000 acres and is a protected area in Baja Sur. If you are interested in diving, snorkeling, whale-watching, or even just enjoying an incredibly beautiful and laid-back beach setting, then Cabo Pulmo is for you.

It is often said to have the best snorkeling and diving in all of Baja, and features the only coral reef in the Sea of Cortez. I highly recommend spending at least half a day here. The park closes at 5 or 5:30pm depending on the day, so you can stay the entire day as well. Tours can be booked below for various marine activities that you won’t soon forget!

You can absolutely book accommodations on the ocean near Cabo Pulmo National Park. I personally drove one hour inland to the tiny town of Santiago. I wanted to set myself up for several early days at my next mountainous region:

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Stop #3: The Sierra de la Laguna Mountains

The Sierra de la Laguna mountains are incredibly picturesque. These mountains are compiled of white jagged rocks – a very different terrain than I am used to in the American Southwest.

The town of Santiago is quite literally an oasis, and these mountains showcase exactly why. Crystal clear and cool spring water flows into various lagoons between the mountain peaks. Yes, these are incredible for quick dips in the hot desert sun. But even more of a surprise than the crystal springs of the Baja desert are the hot springs that pool just next to them.

The Santa Rita hot springs are a natural phenomenon and they – like the entire Sierra de la Laguna – are a UNESCO protected biosphere reserve. These springs are so refreshing and a completely unexpected sight in the deserts of Baja. You can quite literally hop from the very hot water of the springs into the refreshingly cool stream next door.

Hiking in Sierra de la Laguna, I saw not one other soul on the rocks. I have an entire post on visiting the Santa Rita Hot Springs that will help you plan the details. This was the biggest highlight of my most recent trip to Baja, so I highly suggest adding this to the list!

Depending on how tired you are, you can spend another night in Santiago, or, drive on to the next location.

Stop #4: La Paz

Two hours north, and headed back to the eastern shore, is La Paz, Mexico. I used La Paz as a sort of rest-stop after a week or so of non-stop hiking and exploring. I booked a hotel right on the water and really made use of the small patch of sand and cheerful pool area.

Honestly it was the perfect way to decompress, play catch up, and relax. Even though its a city, it’s a fairly calm area (“La Paz” means “peace” so there ya go) nestled between mountains and long stretched of rugged land and cacti.

After a full day of La Paz, I was ready to explore the surrounding areas.

Stop #5: Balandra Bay

This hidden gem is such a stunning location that I wrote an entire post about exploring Balandra Bay while you[re visiting La Paz.

The shades of blue are unbelievably bright, made even more drastic by the dry brown earth and tall cacti that surround it. It takes a roughly 30 minute drive from the outskirts of La Paz to reach here, and the road winds through beautiful mountains.

The bay itself is quite shallow in many areas, with limited beach parking and frankly limited beach spots to choose from. The bay is sheltered between two mountains, and climbing those mountains will give such a stunning view of the entire bay that it just can’t be missed.

I stayed a total of four days in the La Paz area and explored Balandra Bay on two of the four days. I spent all nights in the same hotel until I was ready to circle back south.

Stop #6: Small Towns on the Pacific Side of Baja

When it was time for me to head back down toward Los Cabos, I wanted to drive through new terrain. I chose to drive down the Pacific side of the peninsula.

Along the way, I stopped at a number of small towns and villages that I passed during the two hour drive south. I also found some picturesque beaches with cacti leading right up to the sand that I thought were incredible.

Yes, I get it – I’m not giving you an exact spot to stop and visit. But that’s part of the fun of road trips. Stopping wherever your heart desires and taking time to see everything along the way.

Stop #7: Back in Cabo

Assuming that you are flying out of Mexico from Cabo, you’ll complete your circle right back where you started. This is an excellent opportunity to visit any Cabo sights that you didn’t see on the first round. Or, if you have time, enjoy a few more days in paradise on the beach.

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Can You Road Trip Baja California as a Solo Female?

I have road tripped multiple areas in Mexico as a solo female. I would say a solid 98% of the time, everything went smoothly. I felt safe at all times, even in deserted areas. Other drivers were courteous. Maps were relatively accurate.

So what snags did I hit? Actually, none in Baja Sur. I have had a few interesting experiences when previously renting a car in Mexico , but none in Baja Sur.

Every destination and route listed here are ones that I personally drove, completely solo, on my own Baja California road trip.

Take normal precautions, such as:

• make sure your gas tank is full before entering remote areas.
• download offline maps to your phone and/or bring a paper map.
• avoid driving in isolated areas late at night.
• make sure your phone has reception or get a local SIM card for emergencies.

And there you have it! An incredible Baja Sur road trip guide that will cover so many terrains – mountains, beaches, deserts. It will also cover two protected nature areas that are just incredible to see in person.

This road trip through Baja will prove to you what an awesome area the Baja Peninsula truly is.

Is there anything else you’d like to know about Baja? Let me know below!

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About Monica

Monica has been a solo female world traveler for over 15 years. She is an expert on outdoor adventures, solo female travel, and off the beaten path destinations. She is the founder of This Rare Earth and is a firm believer that the world is not as scary as the media might have you think! Learn more about her here . Connect with her on Instagram .

Reader Interactions

June 15, 2021 at 7:41 am

Wonderful post! My husband and I are planning to do something like this over Christmas/ New Years and we are avid divers and hikers. Did you stay in boutique hotels or Airbnb’s? Thank you very much!

June 15, 2021 at 9:33 am

Thank you so much Edyta! You are going to LOVE road tripping here – I highly recommend it for hikers / divers. I stayed in both local hotels and Airbnb’s.

In Santiago, for instance, there were no online reservations; I just showed up and got a room. Whereas in La Paz, it was easy to book ahead. You are going to really enjoy this! As divers / hikers I highly recommend Balandra Bay, Cabo Pulmo, and Sierra de la Laguna! 🙂 Please let me know how it goes!

January 12, 2022 at 11:09 pm

Can you tell me the name of your hotel in La Paz? Thank you, Carole

January 14, 2022 at 5:50 pm

It was called City Express La Paz. It was perfect for me because – despite the name – it was not technically in the city center. It was right on the Melecon and about midway between the city and the mountains. I don’t recall what type of room I had, but it was very clean and comfortable! Small stretch of beach, lovely pool, etc.

Hope that helps! -Monica 🙂

September 3, 2022 at 6:05 pm

hi! can you give me any tips for car rental companies? I live in Mexico, so I speak Spanish and have a license from there and an overseas license. But not sure which companies are better options? I hope to spend 1-2 weeks in late October in this area

September 5, 2022 at 10:26 am

I’ve used multiple different companies in the past, but typically I book through this website and – most recently I hired a car through MEX. I remember that they did not have a great rating, but I took a chance anyway and had no issues. Just remember to take a video of the car before you drive off the lot so that you have evidence of the condition before you used it! Also, know that ALL car companies here will charge you for mandatory insurance, which in my experience is not noted in the quoted price.

Have a great trip – in two weeks you will get to see so much of this awesome area! One of my absolute favorites. 🙂 Monica

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The Quintessential Baja California Sur Road Trip Itinerary

This post shares our quintessential Baja California Sur road trip itinerary, including 13 amazing destinations across the state, and where to eat, stay and play in each of them.

This article may contain affiliate / compensated links, that may earn me a small commission, at no extra cost to you. For full information, please see our disclaimer here . While all efforts have been taken to ensure the information included in this post is correct and current, travel information such as opening hours, business operations and prices change frequently. If you find anything in this post that is incorrect or outdated please let me know in the comments so I can update it for other readers.

Table of Contents

Baja California Sur road trip

If there’s one Mexican state that’s good for a road trip, it’s Baja California Sur.

Limited public transport and some remote, hidden gems make renting a car the best option to get around the region. The distances are relatively short by Mexico standards, and the driving is straightforward (with some fun dirt roads thrown in to complete the Baja vibe!).

Home to some of the most beautiful scenery in the whole country, from dramatic mountain ranges, crystal-clear waters and dusty desert towns, Baja Sur is magic.

We were completely captivated by this incredible state, and it is without a doubt our favourite place in Mexico, after six months of travelling around the country.

In this post, we are going to share our ultimate Baja California Sur road trip itinerary.

We hit all the highlights but also hunted out some lesser-known places and small towns hidden down dusty roads.

Although we could have easily spent more time in Baja California Sur, we felt the route we covered did the state justice, and we got a really good feel for this beautiful part of Mexico.

🌵 Other handy posts for planning your Baja Sur road trip:

• Baja California Sur Travel Guide
• Best Time to Visit Baja California Sur

Driving in Baja California Sur

Grab a copy of my baja california sur travel guide.

After falling absolutely in love with Baja, I decided to put together a Baja California Sur Travel Guide Ebook to help anyone planning a trip to Baja California Sur.

This ebook is designed to be a go-to quick reference guide for the best places to visit around the state, allowing you to be confident you’re hitting all the highlights without needing to do hours of research.

This 125-page ebook covers 13 top destinations across the state, with recommendations for where to eat, stay and play, as well as regional information about climate, transport, and tour recommendations.

It’s filled with all our best tips and advice, and beautiful photos to excite and inspire you ahead of your trip to this incredible part of Mexico!

There is also the option to add a customised Google Map that has over 200 locations pinned by category, allowing you to easily visualise our recommendations across the state.

Find out more about the guide here .

If you’re not driving into Baja from the USA or Canada, you will need to rent a car once you arrive.

The best places to rent a car are from three airports around the state, as you won’t be able to get one in many of the smaller towns.

• 🚙 Check prices and browse for rentals from  Los Cabos International Airport here
• 🚙 Check prices and browse for rentals from  La Paz International Airport here
• 🚙 Check prices and browse for rentals from  Loreto International Airport here

Check out our guide to driving in Baja , with information about the process of renting a car and insurance, and handy tips to make your road trip as smooth as possible.

Baja California Sur itinerary timings

Most Baja road trip itineraries list specific time frames for the trip, usually ranging anywhere from 7 – 14 days.

In this itinerary, I won’t be including any time frames or lengths of stay in each place. Everyone travels very differently, and some people are happy to be moving every day and staying single nights in destinations.

We prefer to travel slower and spent 6 weeks completing our Baja road trip. We don’t like to stay anywhere for less than 2-3 nights at a minimum and are not fans of moving every single day.

This Baja California Sur road trip itinerary is going to focus on the destinations you should visit and the route you should take. How long you spend is totally up to you!

Baja California Sur road trip itinerary

We started our road trip in the south of the state, at the Los Cabos International Airport.

This is the most common entry point for international travellers, so there’s a good chance you will be flying in here. We headed as far north as Mulege before looping back south, returning the car to the same place we collected it.

Our Baja California Sur road trip stops, in order, included:

San Jose del Cabo

Los barriles, magdalena bay, todos santos.

• Cerritos Beach

Cabo San Lucas

🚙 ALTERNATIVE ROUTE

We completed our road trip as a full loop, picking up and returning our rental car to the same place (Cabo).

An alternative option would be collecting your car in one city, and returning it in another, if that is possible with your rental company.

If you want to do a one-way road trip, I would suggest starting in Cabo and ending in Loreto (or vice versa). There are airports and car rental agencies in both destinations.

You would need to rearrange your itinerary for the southern part of the region slightly, so you visit everything there before heading north, and not needing to backtrack again.

😴 How long we spent there: 4 nights

Welcome to the cuter Cabo. Part of the famous Los Cabos resort area, San Jose del Cabo is the quieter, more sophisticated sibling of wild Cabo San Lucas. This colourful colonial town is divided into the inland Art District, where colourful flags flap above cobblestone streets, and the Zona Hotelera, where resorts line miles of golden, undisturbed beaches.

• Stroll around the gorgeous Art District
• Go for a hike on some of the stunning desert trails around the town
• Browse galleries and sip free wine at the weekly Thursday night Art Walk
• Have a farm-to-table dining experience at one of the organic farms outside town
• Enjoy quiet, empty beaches like Playa Costa Azul and Playa Palmilla (best for swimming)
• Taqueria El Fogon: Smokey, tender and delicious steak, in your choice of taco, burrito or papa rellena. The best tacos in San Jose IMO!
• Tamales Doña Nina: Iconic food stall in Plaza Mijares serving up a range of tamales daily
• Tacos El Memo: For crunchy fish (pescado) and camaron (shrimp) tacos with an epic variety of salsas
• Food Truck Park: Lovely atmosphere with a range of Mexican and international food stalls
• Coffee LAB: great coffee, and a range of café-style meals
• Hostel/Budget: Hotel Posada Señor Manaña
• Affordable Mid-Range: Rustico Lounge
• Boutique/Sustainable: Drift

Driving time from San Jose del Cabo to the East Cape: 1 – 2 hours (on bumpy roads!)

🔔 If you haven’t rented a 4×4, visiting the East Cape might be tricky. There is only one road in the area, Camino Cabo Este, and it is bumpy and unpaved for hours. We saw plenty of people attempting it in compact rental cars, and whilst it probably would be fine, the condition of the road can change frequently. If you’re not confident to do this drive, skip the East Cape and instead rearrange the next couple of stops. Head from San Jose del Cabo to Santiago (1 hour), and then from Santiago to Cabo Pulmo (1 hour). After Cabo Pulmo, your next stop will be Los Barriles (1 hour), and you can rejoin our itinerary from there.

😴 How long we spent there: 2 nights

The isolated and remote stretch of coastline between San Jose del Cabo in the west and Cabo Pulmo in the east is known as Cabo Este or East Cape . Only accessible to those with a car and an adventurous spirit, this sparse and untouched area offers an insight into old-school Baja. The most remote stop on our Baja road trip, the East Cape is a truly special part of the state and the scenery is mind-blowing. With just a handful of holiday rentals and small hotels, a few restaurants, and miles of undisturbed surf beach backed by layers of desert mountains, the East Cape is an off-grid experience. Unplug, relax and soak up the best of Baja’s nature.

• Road trip along the infamous Camino Cabo Este, the scenic (bumpy) journey is part of the experience
• Unplug, unwind and do nothing! Read a book, do some yoga, meditate and enjoy the solitude
• Hit the beach, they are usually much calmer than in Los Cabos and you’ll have them all to yourself
• Get up early to watch a spectacular sunrise over the ocean
• Go surfing at La Fortuna, Shipwrecks or Nine Palms some of Baja’s best (and quietest) surf breaks
• Buzzards Bar & Grill: An iconic tourist spot closer to San Jose del Cabo, a great place to start your journey on the Camino Cabo Este
• Zac’s Bar & Grill: A popular restaurant a short way along Camino Cabo Este serving up a range of Mexican and international dishes
• Zai Sushi Surf Bar: An unexpectedly fancy sushi spot, bookings are required in the busy winter months
• Azul Cortes: The White Lodge’s hotel restaurant, fresh healthy meals all day
• SHADE @ La Fortuna : Tacos, burgers, pizza and pasta
• Hostel/Budget: Point Break Glamping
• Affordable Mid-Range: De La Costa
• Boutique/Sustainable: The White Lodge

Driving time from East Cape to Cabo Pulmo: 1 hour (on bumpy roads!)

😴 How long we spent there: 2 nights *

*I wish we stayed another night here!

Cabo Pulmo is a dusty little town hidden down the end of a long, bumpy road in the southeast corner of Baja California Sur. Best known as a scuba diving town, divers come here from all over the world to dive in one of the only coral reefs in North America. The Cabo Pulmo National Marine Park is a large protected area, and getting underwater is a must, whether you’re a scuba diver or snorkelled.

• Go scuba diving in the marine park, there is a very high chance of encountering bull sharks
• Do a snorkel tour (if you’re not a diver), most stop at 3 – 4 sights
• Hike the trails in the mountains behind the town
• Relax on the beaches, both in and out of town
• DIY snorkel from the beach, Playa El Arbolito is a great spot for this
• Tacos and Beer: What could be better than seafood tacos and beer with your feet in the sand?
• La Palapa: The largest and most reliable restaurant, open breakfast to dinner, amazing prawn tacos
• Los Tornados: Good breakfast option, with Mexican specialities and hot coffee
• Tito’s: Serving up classic Mexican dishes for breakfast, lunch and dinner
• El Caballero : Usually reliable hours with local and international options
• Affordable Mid-Range: Cabañas Alicia
• Affordable Mid-Range: Bungalows Cabo Pulmo
• Affordable Mid-Range: Cabo Pulmo Beach Resort

Accommodation in Cabo Pulmo is basic and limited. There are no hostels, and don’t expect anything fancy! These recommendations are comfortable, well-equipped private options in the centre of town.

Driving time from Cabo Pulmo to Santiago: 1 hour

Nestled in the foothills of the Sierra de la Laguna mountains, Santiago is an outdoor lovers’ paradise. This was one of our favourite stops on our Baja California Sur road trip, and it would be virtually impossible to visit without your own car. Santiago epitomises the phrase ‘life in the desert’, and the landscape is dotted with oases, green palm trees, flowing waterfalls and thermal springs bubbling from canyons. This tiny town offers the perfect escape from the busy beaches of Los Cabos.

• Swim under the Cascada Sol de Mayo , a short hike will lead you to the base of the falls
• Soak in the thermal waters of the Santa Rita Hot Springs
• Get an aerial view of the Santiago oasis and lush palm trees from Mirador Santiago de Yala
• Explore the tiny town of Santiago, its main plaza and picturesque church
• Get deeper into the mountains at Rancho Ecologio Refugio for more hiking, swimming holes and waterfalls
• Churros y Elotes: A classic Mexican food stall in the main square serving up elotes (corn) and churros
• Palomar: the largest restaurant in town, and the go-to spot for day tours
• Taqueria la Cascada: All the usual tacos, burritos, quesadillas etc. for breakfast and lunch
• Restaurante Pericu: A new restaurant in town, with amazing birria and other local classics
• Los Agaves: Famous lobster tacos in neighbouring Miraflores
• Affordable Mid-Range: Hotel Don Julio
• Affordable Mid-Range: Rancho Sol de Mayo
• Affordable Mid-Range: Mision 21 Hotel Boutique

Accommodation in Santiago is  extremely  limited and basic. There are just two hotels in town , o therwise, you can stay at some of the ranches out of town.

Driving time from Santiago to Los Barriles: 30 minutes

*Los Barriles is the only place I would happily skip, La Ventana is better in our opinion

Los Barriles is a small beach town on the east coast of the state. Best known as a kite surfing destination, the population of the town swells each November – March with kitesurfers from around the world. With a distinct holiday feel, the small town centre is jammed with restaurants, bars and souvenir shops catering to the seasonal influx of tourists, most from the USA and Canada. If you have to cut out one stop on your Baja California Sur itinerary, we would suggest Los Barriles (in our own personal opinion!).

• Try kitesurfing, there are gear rentals and schools all over town
• Organise a fishing charter, for some of Mexico’s best sportfishing
• Catch a sunrise from the beach
• Rent an ATV or join a guided tour to cruise along the sand and into the desert
• Play pickleball at Los Barriles’ very own pickleball resort
• Taqueria El Viejo : All types of seafood tacos with an epic salad bar, a must try
• Taqueria la Gaviota : Great little taco spot set up in someone’s front yard, range of seafood tacos as well as ceviche and sashimi
• Taqueria Pelapapitas : Huge super burros and a range of good quality Mexican food
• La Playa: Great but pricey spot right on the beach, for cocktails and fresh seafood
• Maxico : A nice option for coffee, juices, smoothie bowls, avo toast etc.
• Hostel/Budget: GALT Habitaciones
• Affordable Mid-Range: Hotel Hondo
• Boutique/Sustainable: Hotel Playa del Sol

Driving time from Los Barriles to La Ventana: 1 hour

😴 How long we spent there: 2 nights*

*I wish we stayed another few nights here!

La Ventana is a small coastal town on the east coast of Baja California Sur, less than an hour south of the state’s capital La Paz. Although you’ll usually only hear the name La Ventana, there are actually two separate towns, located very close to each other – La Ventana and El Sargento. Attracting kite surfers from all over the world with its winter winds, La Ventana is still a great place to visit even if you don’t kite. The desert-meets-ocean landscape has plenty of trails and beaches to explore. We think this is a better choice than Los Barriles, with much more attractive surroundings, and more activities for non-kiters.

• Hike the Punta Gorda trail
• Dig your own thermal spa at Playa Agua Termales (Hot Springs Beach)
• Explore the giant Cardon cactus forest by 4×4, foot or mountain bike
• Do a day trip to see the lighthouse at Punta Arena, and the stunning beach at Bahia de Los Sueños
• Join the masses and go kitesurfing, lessons and gear are abundant around town
• Playa Central : The place to be in La Ventana, enjoy pizzas and cocktails on the rooftop
• Baja Bites: A unique take on classic seafood tacos, with some delish sauces and chilli oils
• Taqueria Rancho: Great option for breakfast, seafood tacos, and special rib nights
• Taqueria Doña Paty: Cheap, local-style tacos, mostly meat-based
• Baja Joe’s: For your morning coffee
• Hostel: La Ventana Hostel
• Affordable Mid-Range: ChangoMango
• Boutique/Sustainable: Hotel Todo Bien

Driving time from La Ventana to La Paz: 45 minutes

😴 How long we spent there: 7 nights

The capital city of Baja California Sur, La Paz is located on the east coast of the Baja Peninsula overlooking the Sea of Cortez. A colourful city centre and waterfront boardwalk area lead to some of the state’s most exceptional natural experiences. World-famous beaches, rich oceans and a stunning desert landscape make La Paz a nature lovers’ dream. City and nature – La Paz is the perfect combination of both! There are so many things to do in and around La Paz , it should be one of the longest stops on your Baja California Sur to squeeze in all the amazing activities.

• Visit the world-famous Playa Balandra (Balandra Beach)
• Swim with whale sharks
• Walk, bike or skate along the Malecon
• Day trip to Isla Espiritu Santo
• Find the colourful murals and street art all around the city
• Snorkel with playful sea lions
• Hit some of the other beaches like Playa El Coromuel, Playa Tecolote and Playa El Saltito
• Watch the sunset from Cerro de la Calavera, a rocky hill above the city
• Go sandboarding at El Mogote Dunes
• Visit the whale museum
• Asadero Rancho Viejo: For mouth watering asada and arrachera tacos
• El Estadio Tacos: For crunchy fish (pescado) and camaron (shrimp) tacos
• Tacos de la Monarca: Affordable and delicious pastor, asada, papas rellenas, tacos and burritos – need I say more?
• Mc Fisher: A range of fish and seafood tacos, seen on Netflix’s Taco Chronicles
• Doce Cuarenta: For amazing coffee roasted on-site, and delicious pastries and bread
• Hostel/Budget: Hostel Casa Esterito
• Affordable Mid-Range: Casa Canona
• Boutique/Sustainable: Baja Club Hotel

Driving time from La Paz to Magdalena Bay: 3.5 hours

At this point in the itinerary, the distances become much greater, and you will spend a lot more time in the car than you have been until now. If you don’t have the time to do this (at least 2+ weeks total) I would suggest skipping the next three stops. Drive from La Paz directly back south to Todos Santos (1 hour) and save the north of the state for another trip.

😴 How long we spent there: 3 nights

Magdalena Bay is less of a destination in itself and more of a jumping point for one of the most incredible travel experiences you will ever have.

Each year in the wintertime, grey whales migrate south from the Artic, to the warm, protected waters of Magdalena Bay . Located on the west coast of Baja California Sur, this sheltered bay in the Pacific Ocean provides a haven for grey whales to mate, give birth and escape the cold winter Arctic waters.

But this is no ordinary whale watching experience. For reasons unexplainable by scientists, the grey whales of Baja are friendly and curious and seek out physical interactions with humans and boats. The whales willingly approach the boats, roll around, give themselves a scratch against the boat and ‘spy hop’ (stick their head vertically out of the water) to get a better look at the humans on board. The whales are expecting attention and affection, and if you don’t lean down to give them a scratch or a smooch, they will be disappointed and swim to another boat looking for love.

• 📆 When: January – April
• 📍 Where: Magdalena Bay
• ⏰ How Long: Single-day trips are possible from La Paz or Loreto, but we recommend organising a multi-day package and staying in Magdalena Bay
• 🚤 Who With: Magdalena Bay Whales is a local company that has been running tours in the bay for over 40 years
• 🛏️ Where to Stay: Magdalena Bay Whales can organise an inclusive, multi-day package with multiple whale watching tours, all meals and accommodation either in their hotel in Magdalena Bay or glamping at their Island Whale Camp on an island in the bay (highly recommended, read our experience here )

Driving time from Magdalena Bay to Loreto: 2.5 hours

😴 How long we spent there: 5 nights

Thought to be the oldest human settlement on the Baja Peninsula, Loreto is home to the first successful Jesuit mission. But it’s not just history. Loreto is surrounded by some of the most outstanding nature in the entire state, and there are so many things to do here. The Sierra de la Giganta mountain range looms over the town and is bordered by the dazzling Sea of Cortez. Just one of two pueblo magicos, or magic towns, in Baja California Sur, Loreto has earned its title and is well worth the extra drive up north!

• Explore the charming historic centre and stroll along the seaside Malecon
• Go for a hike in Tabor Canyon
• Visit the San Javier Mission, hidden deep in the desert
• Spot the largest animal in the world on a blue whale watching tour
• Visit Isla Coronado , a stunning volcanic island in the Bay of Loreto
• Birria El Valle: Cheap, juicy and delicious birria tacos
• El Rey del Taco: A Loreto icon for fish and prawn tacos, with a great salad bar
• Asadero Súper Burro: Juicy, tender steak in your choice of tacos, burritos and papa rellenas
• El Caloron: All kinds of seafood tacos with waterfront views over the Malecon
• La Route: Amazing coffee in the perfect location inside the plaza
• Hostel/Budget: Hostal Casas Loreto
• Affordable Mid-Range: Apartments Playitas
• Boutique/Sustainable: Posada de las Flores

Driving time from Loreto to Mulege: 2 hours

😴 How long we spent there: 0 nights*

*We visited Mulege as a day trip from Loreto, but a big regret for us was not staying a few nights at the nearby Bahia Concepcion on one of Baja’s most spectacular beaches

Pronounced moo-leh-hey, Mulege is a small town in the northeastern part of the state. Best known for its oasis, it is one of the few places in the arid Baja desert where there is a freshwater source. Throw in a beautifully preserved Jesuit mission, a charming centro, and easy access to some of the state’s most impressive beaches, and Mulege is one stop you can’t miss on your Baja California Sur road trip.

• Visit the historic Mision Santa Rosalia de Mulege and get the iconic view of the Rio Mulege surrounded by palm trees
• Wander around Mulege’s small centre with just a handful of one-way streets, a small plaza and a church, and don’t miss the Museo de Mulege
• Sample some vino at Vinedo Heroica Mulege, a small winery located just outside the centre of Mulege
• Hit the beach at Bahia Concepcion, a stunning bay with over 12 beautiful beaches
• Explore the La Trinidad cave paintings with a local guide
• Mulege Brewing Company: A craft brewery with pizzas, burgers and classic pub snacks
• Food Stalls in Jardin Corona: There are a number of stalls in the central plaza with cheap, local food
• Restaurant Bar Los Equipales: All day Mexican staples
• Asadero Dany: Great taco spot on the edge of town
• Nomadico : Right on the beach at Playa El Burro in Bahia Concepcion
• Affordable Mid-Range: Historico Las Casitas
• Affordable Mid-Range: Indie Park
• Affordable Mid-Range: Baja Glamping (Bahia Concepcion)

Accommodation in Mulege is comfortable but simple. There aren’t any hostels as such, or any fancy resorts, but there are plenty of affordable, private accommodations both in town and at the beach.

Driving time from Mulege to Todos Santos: 7.5 hours

This leg is very long, and we would suggest breaking it up. The quickest way to get from Mulege back down south is via Loreto. You could choose to visit Mulege as a side trip from Loreto, returning to Loreto for a few days before tackling the trip to Todos Santos (5.5 hours). Or you could stop in Ciudad Insurgentes for the night, which is about halfway between the two (Mulege – Ciudad Insurgentes: 3.5 hours, Ciudad Insurgentes – Todos Santos: 4 hours)

The small town of Todos Santos is a magnet for artists, creatives, surfers and hippy types. Located in southwest Baja California Sur, on the shores of the Pacific Ocean, it is just over an hour from the wild resort cities of Los Cabos but couldn’t be more different. It has managed to retain its small-town, laid-back feel, and the gorgeous centro is oozing with cool. Don’t forget the miles of golden Pacific beaches, fantastic hiking opportunities, top-class surfing and the chance to see marine life like baby turtles and whales.

• Stroll the colourful streets of the charming historic centre
• Release a baby sea turtle into the ocean at sunset
• Go hiking at Punta Lobos
• Take a walk along one of the golden, empty beaches
• Watch the sunset each evening on the beach
• Santo Chilote: Unique and delicious flavours of fish and shrimp tacos
• El Poblano: Best pastor and asada tacos and burritos
• 5 Tacos and a Beer: 5 tacos and a beer for 200 pesos in a cute setting in Las Tunas
• Tacos la Paceña: A cheap food stall dishing up fish and shrimp tacos
• Doce Cuarenta Coffee House : Amazing coffee and café-style meals in a huge industrial-style warehouse
• Hostel/Budget: Todos Santos Hostel
• Affordable Mid-Range: Hotel Casa Tota
• Boutique/Sustainable: Villa Santa Cruz

Driving time from Todos Santos to Cerritos Beach: 20 minutes

Cerritos Beach/El Pescadero

😴 How long we spent there: 3 nights*

*Many people just visit Cerritos Beach from Todos Santos or vice versa, but we loved splitting our time and staying in both towns, they are a completely different vibe

Technically part of the small agricultural town El Pescadero, Cerritos Beach is an up-and-coming destination just outside of Todos Santos. One of Mexico’s best surf destinations, Cerritos Beach has exploded in popularity in recent years. Surrounded by farmland and stunning desert mountains, this dusty little town offers a laidback atmosphere, a great food scene and of course one of the best beaches in this part of Baja.

• Go surfing at one of Mexico’s best surf breaks, board rentals and lessons are available on the beach
• Watch the sunset from the beach
• Pat some sweet rescue pups at the Cerritos Beach Dog Cafe
• Laze on Cerritos Beach and take advantage of vendors renting lounges, massages, drinks and snacks
• Enjoy sunset drinks and a bonfire at Amaya
• Barracuda Cantina : Featured on Netflix’s Taco Chronicles for their incredible fish tacos
• Carnitas Miguel’s : An unassuming local spot serving up juicy carnitas (Mexican-style pulled pork) tacos
• Baja Beans Cafeteria: A popular local cafe with good coffee and light bites
• Noah Sushi: Gourmet sushi restaurant hidden away down a backstreet
• Amaya: Delicious cocktails, tacos and ceviche right on the beach
• Hostel/Budget: Pescadero Surf Camp
• Affordable Mid-Range: Pure Baja Suites & Retreats
• Boutique/Sustainable: Tribu Pescadero

Driving time from Cerritos Beach to Cabo San Lucas: 1 hour

Cabo San Lucas is the wild part of the Los Cabos region, a raucous resort city in the south of the state. Best known as an American party destination, or a hideaway for Hollywood high rollers, Cabo San Lucas is the tourist destination in Baja. With the tacky tourist shops, persistent touts and heaving nightclubs to prove it. But even if you’re not into tequila shots or all-inclusive resorts, there is some stunning scenery here. Experiencing crazy Cabo for at least a few days on your Baja California Sur road trip is a rite of passage, even if it doesn’t sound like your scene!

• Hike up Mt Solmar with a group of dogs
• Get a water taxi to the iconic El Arco and hang out on Lovers Beach and Divorce Beach
• Hunt out the best local tacos on a street food tour
• Go humpback whale watching
• Explore the less-visited downtown Cabo San Lucas, with quieter, more local streets
• Los Claros: Best local restaurant in Cabo , seafood tacos with an epic salad bar
• Taqueria el Paisa: Mouthwatering al pastor and asada tacos
• La Lupita: On the fancier side, but a great venue and delicious tacos
• Taqueria el Zarape: Cheap, juicy late night tacos
• La Esquina Choyera : Great option for a hearty Mexican breakfast
• Hostel/Budget: Sofia Hostel
• Affordable Mid-Range: Cabo Vista Hotel
• Boutique/Sustainable: Bahia Beach House

Driving time from Cabo San Lucas to San Jose del Cabo: 45 minutes

Road trip Baja California Sur: Final thoughts

This marks the end of your epic Baja California Sur road trip! Head to the airport in San Jose del Cabo to return your car, and say goodbye to one of the most beautiful places on the planet.

Sally Rodrick

Sally Rodrick is the voice behind Sally Sees. She has spent 12 months travelling in Mexico and Central America, and has her sights firmly set on South America. Sally helps thousands of readers discover the magic of Latin America. Sharing detailed guides to inspire and equip them with the knowledge they need to plan their own epic adventures in this incredible part of the world.

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The comments.

La Bocana?? Guerrero Negro?? Santa Rosalia??

For a future trip! We would have loved to include those places, but we prefer to take it slow and spend more time in each destination. I think our next trip has to include Baja Norte too, with a stop in these northern places!

Thanks for the beautiful review and pictures. I am curious about your opinion on this : if you had to pick 2 places to spend one month each, which places would you pick ? From what I read on your post, I bet La Paz would be one of the two. Which would be the second one ? Todos Santos ? San Jose del Cabo ? 🙂

Hey Anthony, I think you would be right with La Paz! There is just such a breadth of things to do in and around the city, so it is definitely a great place to spend a month – we hope to do the same one day! In terms of a second location – a tough one!! If you are planning on having a car, I would say Todos Santos over San Jose del Cabo. It’s quieter and more laidback, and if you have a car it is still within easy reach of Los Cabos and plenty of other surrounding beaches and towns. However, we did LOVE Loreto in the north. The scenery up there is breathtaking, and there are plenty of amazing hikes, tours and activities to do. It is quite a while away from other areas though (4 + hours from La Paz). Good luck deciding – everywhere is beautiful!! 😄

Thank you so much for all of this information! My friend and I are headed to the same area in early February, and you have done a lot of the leg work for us!

Hi Lisa, my absolute pleasure! I hope you have an amazing time in Baja Sur, and please reach out if you have anymore questions. Sally xx

Hi I am currently following your guide, brilliant! In LA Paz now and you have been spot on re. your obversations. Cheers Ray, an old Kiwi

Hi Ray, you’re not quite from my Aussie neck of the woods, but close enough! I am so glad the guide has been helpful! Sounds like you are having a fantastic time. I would love to teleport back to La Paz. Keep enjoying, eat some tacos for me, I still dream about the asada tacos from Rancho Viejo in La Paz! All the best, Sally

Thanks, Sally for these amazing tips and recommendations. We are headed on a 16 day road trip through Baja soon and your content has helped us plan our trip. I haven’t been to Baja in 25 years and am excited to see how much it has changed and show my daughters around Baja. Fantastic content and beautiful photos on your blog. Happy travels. Nikki

Hi Nikki, how exciting is that! I would absolutely love to hear your opinions after returning to Baja, and what you think has changed. It’s definitely developed a whole lot more since then, but I hope you still find the raw Baja magic. It will be wonderful to share such a special place with your daughters. Enjoy, and I would love to hear your thoughts post trip! Sally xx

HEY THERE ! BEAUTIFUL BLOG ABOUT YOUR ROADTRIP IN BAJA. WE WERE LOOKING FOR A SUMMER TRIP, AND WE’VE ALREADY BEEN NUMEROUS TIMES TO CALIFORNIA. BAJA SUR LOOKS LIKE A LOVELY OPTION TO SEE SOMETHING NEW. DO YOU THINK IT’S SAFE TO TRAVEL WITH A 2 YEAR OLD KID? WE WERE TRAVELING WITH OUR DAUGHTER WHEN SHE WAS ONE YEAR OLD IN MEXICO CITY, AND WE FELT PRETTY SAFE THERE. DID YOU NEVER FEEL UNSAFE ON YOUR ROADTRIP? IF YOU WOULD ONLY HAVE 5 DAYS? DO YOU THINK STAYING IN A HOTEL IN LAPAZ AND DOING DAYTRIPS TO TODOS SANTOS AND CABO WOULD BE A GOOD IDEA, OR SHOULD WE CHANGE CITIES WITHING THESE 5 DAYS? THANKS FOR HELPING.

Hi Frank, thanks for your kind words. I think Baja California Sur would be an amazing place for a trip with your daughter, and we never felt unsafe at all. For just 5 days, I would probably suggest basing yourself in one place, and focusing on that area. There is so much to see and do in each destination you don’t want to spend most of your time driving around. However if it was possible to fly into Cabo and out of La Paz (or vice versa) you could try and spend maybe 3 nights in each. But the southern area is small enough that day trips are possible. Enjoy! Sally

Thank you for sharing this wealth of information. I love your format. To the point thourogh concise. Incredible.

Thankyou so much for your kind words Mira, I am so glad the article helped. Sounds like you’ve got a great trip on the cards – enjoy! Sally x

The Ultimate Mexican Beach Road Trip of Your Dreams, Planned by a Local Expert

Road tripping in a vintage Volkswagen Vanagon with a certified expert by our side inspires nostalgia, and rekindles a love for Baja California.

My vintage Westy jounces along the grated road, psychedelic Latin rock blasting as the rust-colored Baja sand dusts my windshield. A burro makes his way along the saguaro-lined highway, and as I grab for my glass bottle of Coca-Cola, I can’t help but feel like a vintage postcard come to life. But even as a seasoned solo traveler with countless trips to Baja under my belt, I’m glad I have a bright yellow van named Schnitzel and our caravan leader Shane Jordan as my North Star.

Thomas J. Story

Our five vintage Vanagons pass through several seasons—from bluebird skies to dense downpours—along our journey toward what to many travelers is still a great unknown. It’s as far away as possible from the raucous Cabo San Lucas, and that’s how we like it. There’s no cell service, and for the first time in a long time, I’m alone with my thoughts in this remote, relatively untouched part of Baja California Sur.

I’m not the only one seeking to slow down and do things the old fashioned way. There’s a real interest in rewinding to simpler times, from the prevalence of vinyl and shooting on film to the popularity of thrifting at flea markets . It’s only natural that this nostalgia would permeate the world of travel, and there’s no better place to experience it than here.

This zeitgeist is embodied at Escapar a la Baja , an annual vanlife and overlanding gathering now in its sixth year that draws upwards of 20,000 attendees. While the Baja 1000, first started in 1967, may have sparked the interest in driving the massive 760-mile-long state, you no longer have to be a rally racer to experience the magic of the region in the form of a road trip, thanks to a Seattle-based company called Peace Vans . 

The Pacific Northwest purveyor of pop-up camper van rentals, repairs, and sales is helmed by former Microsoft executive Harley Sitner, who himself fell in love with Baja road tripping over the years. Though many encounter Peace Vans via their popular Instagram account , I was introduced to Sitner while going down the rabbit hole researching camps for Burning Man . It turns out Sitner is a 26-year veteran of the Black Rock City festival in Nevada, and my burnt red van named Columbia had festival parking passes on the window dating back to 1999. 

Sitner’s quirky, creative, connector’s spirit sits right in line with some of the old school Burners, and Baja locals too. For his curated trips with Peace Vans, he’s teamed up with Carmen Loeffler and Jordan Bobrowicz, also known as the Bougie Dirtbags , who are facilitators of not just amazing food, but also great vibes. We spent our mezcal-fueled nights together around the campfire, waves roaring and hearts full.

“Our Baja program is a huge labor of love for me personally. Our hearts felt called to do it. Over the almost 12 years I’ve been running Peace Vans, I’ve learned that it’s much more than an auto repair shop, more than a camper van company, and more than a rental company,” says Sitner. “We are, literally and figuratively, a way for people to live their best lives through the magic of life on the road.” 

The winter of 2023 was the first season for Peace Vans’ Baja road trips, where the company offers both self-guided, six-night itineraries as well as more curated, guided trips with specific focus areas, like whale watching or farm-to-table cuisine that you can tack onto your self-drive. We participated in a version of their guided group trips, where vanlifers travel in a caravan of four to six vehicles with support along the way and a unique and special set of activities, experiences, and dining.

“Something inside my heart told me it was important to put this program together—to create a new set of experiences for folks who are open to a slightly more challenging, and therefore more heart-opening, travel experience, but one that is still highly supported and partially curated,” says Sitner.

The magic isn’t in the destination after all; it’s in the journey. Though it’s far from glamping, Peace Vans trips offer the perfect balance, prioritizing magic over efficiency, but still providing the creature comforts that keep you from truly roughing it. The vans come outfitted with all the road-trip-ready amenities you’d need, including fresh water filters with pump attachments for showers, Starlink internet, Sand Cloud beach towels, beach chairs, bug spray , head lamps, and solar-powered lanterns. That’s not to say it’s simple. But working through those challenges, paired dashes of happenstance and kismet, is what makes travel great. 

The sheer volume of people who have fallen in love with the state of Baja while road tripping down here is evidenced by bumper stickers you might see on the journey. It’s not uncommon to see signs like “Ask your doctor if Baja is right for you” or “I’d rather be nowhere.” I am now emphatically one of those converts, not-so-secretly plotting my next trip back. 

“I passionately believe that it is at these edges where life happens,” says Sitner. And after a lifetime of travel, I couldn’t agree more.

The Itinerary

Here’s how our journey through Baja California Sur unfolded, day by day. Rather than following this word for word, let this serve as a rough road map and jumping-off point to inspire your own journey in this magical corner of the planet.

Day One: Cabo Pulmo

After leaving the bustling Cabo San Lucas airport, we headed to the Vista Ballena campsite in Cabo Pulmo, an absolute must-visit for water enthusiasts . This underwater National Park is teeming with marine life and is an excellent spot for snorkeling, diving, and kayaking. After parking our vans at the site, our group headed for a quick dip in the warm waters. It was practically a private beach, with no one around as far as the eye can see.

Over the years, I’ve had some amazing experiences in the area surrounding Cabo Pulmo. While staying at the nearby Four Seasons Costa Palmas , I went on a spearfishing adventure with local guides, bringing back a catch to enjoy as ceviche. And in the nearby break of Los Barriles, there’s incredible, world-class surf.

Upon returning to the campsite, which also offers casitas and teepees, the Bougie Dirtbags proved how they got their name by preparing an epic seafood feast. We noshed on freshly shucked oysters from Magdalena Bay and a tinned fish board with an assortment of smoked dips and local produce. In the morning, the girls whipped up a savory French toast with morel duxelles, poached eggs, and chili oil, and we did one last dip before heading off.

Day Two: Rancho San Dionisio

We packed up our vans and hit the road, but not without stopping at OXXO for my favorite chili and chamoy-flavored Mexican sour straws called Squinkles, and our caravan made its way to a palm-tree forest in Santiago that looked straight out of The Land Before Time. Then we continued enroute to the biosphere of El Refugio, where we meet Clarence Harrison, who owns and operates this magical regenerative farm called Rancho San Dionisio. Clarence and his wife Isabella are rehabilitating the farm, which was formerly a cheese-making ranch in the 1800s, to grow groves of mangoes and avocados and row upon row of greens and squash.

After a brief tour, we make our way down to their private watering hole to cool off. Smooth granite boulders dot the river, which flows through a canyon lushly forested with oversize palm trees. The sounds of flowing water and the wind rushing through the leaves is punctuated by the occasional chirp of a bird. It’s easy to see why many overlanders and hikers choose this as the starting point for a three-day hike that starts here and runs to Todos Santos.

As for us, we’re on more of a glamping regimen. We make our way back to the vans, and Carmen and Jo are at it again, this time cooking massive tomahawk steaks over a live fire for a long-table dinner under an ancient string-lit ficus tree.

Day 3: La Paz

Driving into the traffic-jammed city is admittedly a bit jarring after being off the grid for a few days. But the friendly valet has all sorts of questions about our Westies, which is something we’ve grown accustomed to on this trip. The amount of curiosity and community these vans inspire is like no other vehicle I’ve ever driven. It’s an instant conversation starter. 

While it’s been shockingly comfortable sleeping in a van the past few nights, the plush beds at Baja Club Hotel are a welcome change. We settle in for a cocktail and stroll the Malecón in the evening, taking in the sunset as locals do. 

After a bite and a proper shower, we hit the hay and enjoy an early night. In the morning, we head out with Shane Jordan in his restored, WWII era Westy Schnitzel to a private beach near El Tecolote. The water is as warm as the Caribbean, and save for a group of locals riding on horseback with a couple travelers, we didn’t run into a single person on our stretch of sand. 

We were famished after our morning swim, and lunch at Casamarte , a Baja-style seafood shack, couldn’t have come sooner.

Pit Stop: El Triunfo

An absolute must-stop on any road trip from La Paz to Todos Santos is the historic mining town of El Triunfo, stopping for lunch at the appropriately named Cafe El Triunfo , where Marcus Spahr, who used to be a baker at San Francisco’s legendary Tartine, has been making delicious woodfired pizzas and baked goods for the masses passing through, hoping to get a taste of old world Mexico. We carbo-loaded and then headed on to Todos Santos, as we wanted to get to the city before dark.

Days Four to Five: Todos Santos

“The American dream is alive and well in Mexico,” I joked after meeting handfuls of enterprising expats, from creatives and chefs to ceramicists and painters, who have decided to up and move south of the border to this charming surf town. It’d been over five years since I’d last visited, and while the same charm still exists, there are a ton more restaurants and bars cropping up, as well as darling boutique hotels.

A must while in this area is a day at Cerritos beach, one of the only swimmable beaches in the region that also has an excellent surf break fit for beginners. After a surf lesson with Mario Surf School , we stopped by Tasi , a family-owned açaí-bowl and coffee and juice bar, before heading to Barracuda’s for the obligatory Baja fish tacos. (They do, in fact, live up to every bit of hype.) We made our way back to our glamping tents at Villa Santa Cruz located right along a perfect surf break. I couldn’t help but roll up the safari tent doors to listen to the waves crash on the shore while getting ready for one last meal with our ragtag caravan crew of what I suspect will be lifelong friends. And that is the magic of a great road trip.

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Ultimate Baja California Road Trip | van life in Mexico

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I spent all of February and March on an incredible Baja California Road trip and I’m thinking it’s going to become an annual thing with how much I enjoyed myself. Whale watching, cacti forests, beach camping, fish tacos and mountains meeting the ocean is just a sample of the beauty van life in Mexico had to offer.

In this post, I’m going to cover everything you need to know to have a great experience road tripping around Baja California. I’ll include documents you need, car insurance and other travel insurance I recommend as well as my favorite places to spend time.

What to Expect on your Baja California Road Trip:

Driving baja:, weather in baja mexico:, things to do in san felipe:, things to do in guerrero negro:, hotels in la paz:, hotels and glamping in la ventana:, hotels in todos santos:, where to stay:, overview of this baja california road trip guide:.

Baja California and Baja California Sur are Mexican State that border the US State of California. San Diego is just 17 miles North of the border. Collectively Baja California and Baja California Sur is over 1000 miles South from the California border, and it is almost as long as the entire US West Coast. However, it is quite narrow and therefore easy to explore a LOT while traveling up and down the peninsula.

I’m going to break down the main cities and regions you won’t want to miss, but first let’s cover some of the basics you’ll need to know in order to visit.

Know Before You Go: Road Trip to Baja

Required documents and recommended insurance:.

• passport (and green card if applicable). Also bring physical copies and photos of your documents on your phone.
• FMM (Multiple Immigration Form) this can be completed in advance online or in the on-site office just before crossing. It is REQUIRED and valid for 180 days. I believe it is also sometimes called a Mexico Vehicle Permit. I entered at the Mexicali border and filled it out and paid there. The cost varied amongst different groups I know that crossed. It ranged from $30-$45 US Dollars. It was cash only when I crossed but others had mentioned they only accepted credit cards. SO, be prepared for both.
• Mexican Liability Insurance for your vehicle is mandatory. I got FULL coverage through BajaBound Insurance. It was so easy to fill out online. I know several people that ended up needing to use the insurance and they had a good experience. It was $567.44 for my 1999 Chevy Express and van build for 6 MONTHS. The nicer your vehicle, the more it will cost! Also – in general the 6 month plans are a lot cheaper than paying for a couple months.
• RECOMMENDED: get TRAVEL insurance . For me, I wanted the most coverage possible and this included trip interruption, health insurance that would also cover sport and activities injuries as well as medical air travel back to the United States if necessary. For one month it was $220 through World Nomads. There are definitely cheaper plans available.

• Long stretches without gas stations! Fill up often and consider bringing extra fuel. Also, your gas is pumped for you!
• Military Checkpoints where they may ask to search your vehicle. Mine was searched 5 times haha. Apparently my old chevy really stood out. These are nothing to stress about. The first one was definitely intimidating as we didn’t know what to expect, but they just become a normal part of travel days.
• Avoid driving at night! Between the semi trucks barreling down the narrow winding roads, cows that like to wander and sneaky pot holes, TRUST ME – do not drive at night.
• Don’t bring produce across the border! They may not check, but it will warrant a full inspection if you have any. Plus produce is much cheaper and honestly better across the border.
• Expect long stretches with little to no cell service . I’d recommend downloading offline maps.

Is Driving Baja Safe?

This seems to be the biggest concern, and was definitely one of mine going into it. But, YES! It is perfectly safe. There are of course risks and mishaps that are possible just like driving anywhere would have.

As mentioned above, Mexican Car Insurance is required and is often not included on initial rental car prices (even if it says it is!!). Since I drove my own vehicle, this was something I had set up a few days before online through Baja Bound.

• Expect a decent amount of pot holes and some sections of very rough road.
• You have to wait for an attendant to pump your gas.
• Also expect a LOT of topes (speed bumps) they can be so aggressive haha.
• Come prepared with a good spare tire and make sure it’s aired up before your trip!
• Bring a tire repair kit and it’s not a bad idea to also bring an air compressor !
• Don’t drive at night!!
• If you are planning to camp at beach spots, bring recovery boards .
• Driving is the same side as in the US!
• If you are pulled over by the police you can demand to go to the station

TIP: I do recommend having at least AWD if not 4×4 and a decent amount of clearance if you plan to go to many of the beaches. Getting people unstuck from the sand was a daily occurrence. All of the main roads are paved! Side excursions to campsites, landmarks and activities are usually dirt/sand roads.

Honestly the most stressful part of driving was when semi trucks would come the other direction. The roads can be very narrow in sections. It’s been termed a ‘Baja High Five’ if your side mirror touches a semi truck heh… I was lucky to not have that experience. The wider your van/vehicle the more this will be a stressor. Keep this in mind when placing your surf boards, etc.

Best Time to Visit for your Baja California Road Trip:

The ideal months to visit Baja Mexico are December-April. I headed down at the end of January in order to make it to my first ever van festival at Playa Tecolote – Escapar Van Festival. The festival was an absolute blast and I ended up traveling around Baja for almost 2 months with folks I met there.

Next year, I would aim to head to Baja earlier. Maybe just after Christmas. It felt like peak tourism was end of January until late February leading to some crowded camping areas.

I made sure to head North back to the USA before Easter, because Easter is the biggest holiday in Mexico and most locals will get the day off and be joining in on road tripping and camping. I’d recommend avoiding this time if possible. Also, be mindful of when Spring Break happens, because theres definitely an increase in visitors during that time as well.

The weather is definitely MUCH warmer the further South you drive. Most of my time spent in Baja was in the very Southern tip of the Peninsula.

Average temperatures in Baja California during these months are 75-80°F for the high and 55-60°F for the lows. And in the southern State Baja California Sur, you can expect to add 5-10 degrees!

Each year will vary dramatically, but during my time here I didn’t experience ANY precipitation.

OKAY FINALLY….the Ultimate Baja California Road Trip Itinerary:

Baja California Road Trip Itinerary: the best spots + where to stay!

In no way do you need to stop at ALL of these places to have a good experience here. These recommended stops will go geographically from North to South! It was nice to plan to spend more time in the areas I really liked on the way back North.

1. San Felipe

San Felipe was my first stop after crossing the border about 2 hours south. It is one of the first places you’ll be able to see the Gulf of California. It was a fantastic place to run errands, stretch our legs and grab some breakfast. I ended up spending another whole day and night here on the way back North too!

• Walk the Boardwalk also known as the Malecón San Felipe that overlooks the water and the beach
• take a photo with the San Felipe sign
• Visit San Felipe Brewing. The beer was really good and we got to sample as many as we wanted. I loved the jalapeno ale. There are also food trucks here for snacks.

Day Trips from San Felipe:

Valle de los gigantes.

The Valle De Los Gigantes is an area that is home to some of the tallest cacti in the world! The type of cacti here are known as the Mexican Cardon Cactus.

This is located just 25 minutes south of San Felipe. There is an entrance fee of 200 pesos cash only and they only allow you to drive through the loop if you have 4 wheel drive as it is quite sandy.

Los Puertecitos Hot Springs

Los Puertecitos Aguas Termales is an ocean front hot springs that is located in a small town along the Gulf of California. It is about an hour south of San Felipe and can be done as a day trip from San Felipe or as an overnight destination as well.

• 500 pesos per car for day pass to hot springs (about $30 USD)
• palapa camping next to a sandy beach. bathroom is available short walk away.
• this is definitely the most expensive camping I experienced in Baja, but the hot spring access made it worth it.

It is cash only so come prepared from San Felipe with plenty of cash. You’ll want to check the tide charts as these hot springs can require some patience. Since they are right along the water, when the tide is out, the water is too low and directly from the source and WAY too hot to be in. It requires the right mix of ocean water and hot spring source water to fill up the rocky pools along the bay.

There are quite a few pools to choose from and it will really just depend on the desired temperature and tide. Always test the water with a thermometer before getting in!

Note: these are clothing optional.

New to hot springs? Check out my post on Hot Spring Etiquette.

San Felipe: Where to Stay?

• Malena & Leo’s Campo. Beach access, toilets, a little less expensive than others in the area
• La Palapa RV Camp. Beach access, 2 story palapas are unique, expensive, but has almost all amenities needed.
• Find free camping using iOverlander app. If you’re new to this check out my guide to finding free camping.
• Hotel Las Palmas
• Bungalows at Seaside Hotel
• Stella Del Mar

2. Guerrero Negro

Over the course of the couple months I was in Baja, I only managed to spend a couple nights in Guerrero Negro and would love to change that next time. This area is known for great whale watching, sand dunes and night life.

• Whale Watching! This area is known for its close encounter experiences with gray whales. Check out Mystic Whale Tours at about $50 USD per person. These are the types of whale watching experiences where you may be able to pet a whale. The season runs end of January through end of March.
• Visit the Sand Dunes just north of town. These dunes are some of the largest and best managed dunes in all of Mexico. Hike through the dunes or even camp out near the dunes!
• Eco Tour of the Cave Paintings and Saltworks. Apparently Guerrero Negro is the home to one of the largest saltworks in the world and is one of the leading producers of salt! Go on a guided tour to learn about the process with Malarrimo Eco Tours or Mario’s Tours .
• Hike Punta Morro Santa Domingo. This 4.3 mile out and back trail gets you up close to the cliffsides and might even give you a view of some sea life!
• Fish Tacos! You definitely don’t want to miss the fish tacos at Fish Taco “El Pariente”. It’s a food truck that was recommended by MANY and it definitely did not disappoint.
• Nightlife. Apparently Guerrero Negro is known for its lively nightlife with live music, open air bars and craft cocktails. I personally didn’t spend time chasing the nightlife here, but would love to go back and experience this.

Where to stay in Guerrero Negro:

• Malarrimo RV Park
• Wild camping (reference iOverlander app)
• Hotel Malarrimo

Mulege and surrounding areas was one of my favorite places to spend time. The Bahia Concepcion (Conception Bay) is absolutely stunning and has loads of camping that I highly recommend checking out. Mulege has a reputation of being a hidden gem oasis, and I’d have to agree. With no airport nearby, it’s really a place that most people don’t get to see.

Things to do in Mulege:

Bahia concepcion (conception bay) day trip:.

This is where I spent the MOST time in this area and was honestly so excited to go back on my journey North. It is one of the largest bays in Baja and provides amazing camping and sight seeing opportunities. It’s a fantastic place to paddle board, swim, watch sailboats AND see the bioluminescence.

• Playa El Requeson is a sandbar beach that protrudes out into the bay. You can drive to the end of the sand bar and a lot of people will camp here! It was a little too crowded for my liking but a very unique beach to at least check out.
• Playa el Coyote is a rather tucked away beach that has some of the most clear, turquoise waters in the area. There are palapas and beach camping for around $12 USD a night or 200 pesos.
• Playa los Cocos is another favorite of mine and where I spent the most time camping. Locals will bring by fresh fruit, ceviche and baked goods for sale and it was all so delicious. The palapas really give privacy and it really is camping in paradise. Around 200 pesos per night.
• Playa Santispac was another fantastic beach to hang out on with palapas available. We ended up camping on the far end of the beach and had beach front views with a little more privacy. Two restaurants are on site and we thoroughly enjoyed the food and margaritas we got there. Around 200 pesos per night.

NOTE: these are all paid camping sites and are truly some of the most scenic camping around. However there are also free campspots available if you search off the beaten path, but be prepared for sand. I definitely recommend 4×4 if not staying at established campsites.

More things to do in Mulege:

• Nomadico Cafe is a VERY charming cafe/brunch spot near the Bahia de Concepcion that you don’t want to miss. It is pricey but some of the best lattes I had in Mexico. There also seems to be camping available here.
• Misión Santa Rosalia de Mulegé is a historic mission that has a short 0.8 mile trail that allows you to see the preserved building from 1705 and enjoy seeing the beautiful river oasis views of palm trees at the Río Mulegé Overlook.
• Mulege Brewing Company has some a charming vibe, good beer and pizza

Where to Stay in Mulege:

As mentioned above in day trips, Bahia De Concepcion has some of the most scenic camping. If you don’t want to drive the 30 minutes south to camp, check out:

• Huerta Don Chano RV Park
• Gina House with Pool in Mulege
• Casa el Pescador

Loreto is a city I’d like to spend a lot more time exploring. It has a little bit of everything and you could easily spend a week in this area with the outdoor adventures nearby, good food, cafes and accomodations.

Things to do Loreto, Baja California Sur:

• Grab coffee at La Herosa Cafe . A VERY charming cafe near the water that I would have spent many mornings at.
• Parque Nacional Bahía de Loreto or Loreto Bay National Park is a stop a lot of people check out. Take a guided boat tour or go snorkeling or kayaking with a guide !
• Take a guided tour to see cave paintings !
• Take a day trip to Isla Coronados
• Check out beer tasting at El Zopilote Brewing Co.
• Walk the scenic Malecon de Loreto (beachside boardwalk!)
• Take a bike tour to some of the best food in Loreto!
• Go fishing in this historical fishing town with local fisherman

Where to Stay in Loreto:

Camping in loreto, baja california sur:.

• Playa Ligüí is a public beach area south of Loreto with no facilities but really gives you incredible beachfront camping. Make sure you are prepared to drive in sand and pack out what you bring in!
• Palmas Altas Retreat: a very vibey camping and glamping area right in downtown Loreto close to all the things to do and good food.
• Rosarito Hotel is a charming boutique hotel with a pool and lots of amenities.
• Sukasa Bungalows

La Paz is a proper city and a great basecamp for doing and seeing SO much on your Baja California road trip. Some of the most stunning beaches and hiking areas are just a day trip away. There is also an airport and lots of services and stores here if you need to replenish supplies.

Things to do in La Paz on your Baja California Road Trip:

• Espirutu Santo Island boat tour
• Snorkel with Sea Lions
• hike to the world famous Balandra Beach
• Visit or camp at Tecolote Beach! A mountainous, cacti covered stunning beach near Balandra.
• Go to Escapar Van Life Festival
• Swim with Whale Sharks! This area is known for encounters with these beautiful creatures.
• Walk the Malecon/Seaside Boardwalk
• Walk downtown for colorful murals
• La Paz is known for having good food and a lot of people will do guided food tours here
• Museo de Arte de Baja California Sur
• Go sandboarding at the Mogote Dunes

Where to Stay in La Paz:

Camping in la paz, baja california sur:.

• My favorite place to camp near La Paz was Tecolote Beach. It is not close to town, but it is a beach area that is absolutely stunning to spend time at with nearby hiking and a restaurant (expensive) on the beach.
• If you are looking for places to camp IN the city of La Paz, check out Peace Center Campground for 400MXN per night. It is first come first serve.
• Baja Club Boutique Hotel

6. La Ventana & El Sargento

I spent probably the most time in La Ventana and El Sargento (hence the absurd amount of photos). Two quirky towns right next to each other on one main street. I love it here for so many reasons. There are fantastic markets, restaurants, nightlife, and water activities right from town. La Ventana is also small enough where you feel like you escaped the big city and you could absolutely walk around to most places here. It was a place I left and ended up coming back to and highly recommend a visit here. It is best known for its kitesurfing, but even if that’s not an interest of yours I recommend a visit.

Things to do in La Ventana on your Road Trip to Baja:

• Visit the cacti forest on the way into town!
• Kiteboarding lessons at Baja Joes
• DO get bread from the bakery next to Baja Bites
• Also get tacos at Baja Bites (they sell out FAST)
• Check out the hot springs nearby
• Sunset dinner at La Tuna
• Aguachile at Mariscos El Cone
• I HIGHLY recommend the eco wildlife tour through Baja Raw . I got so up close to dolphins and pilot whales and it was an absolute dream.
• Mezcaleria!! (that has live music occasionally!)
• Hike Punta Gorda

Where to Stay in La Ventana/El Sargento

Camping in la ventana:.

• Bungalows & Campground El Sargento (small spots, but has all the amenities and is walking distance to a great restaurant)
• Nomada Hotel
• Selenes Hostel

BONUS: Stop in El Trinfo on the way to Todos Santos and be sure to get an almond croissant at Cafe El Triunfo and walk around the historic town.

7. Todos Santos & Cerritos

Todos Santos and Cerritos in Baja are definitely places I think about revisiting often. From frequenting one of the best coffee shops, to the beach restaurants, and the overall aesthetic of these towns – there is a lot to fall in love with. Todos Santos is definitely known as being more of an “instagrammable” place with lots of art and aesthetic streets, enchanting farm to table restaurants, and boutique hotels. This area is also known for some of the best surfing around.

Things to do. Todos Santos Baja Mexico Road Trip Guide:

• Surf Lessons
• Release baby sea turtles!
• Explore downtown! Streets like C. Centenario are perfect for shopping and seeing just how charming Todos Santos is.
• Make sure to hike near Punta Lobos to take in the seaside cliffs and blue waters
• Get Coffee and breakfast at Doce Cuarento ! I spent an embarrassing amount of time working here.
• Eat and drink at Barracuda Cantina just off of the beach in Los Cerritos
• Check out local goods and foods at Agricole
• Acai bowls at Tasi Juice Bar
• Treat yourself to dinner at The Green Room where fantastic seafood is served while you dine on the beach.

Where to Stay in Todos Santos and Los Cerritos

• Todos Santos Hostel: they have a couple camping spots tucked away from the street. This is also a great place to grab a shower!
• Casa Caravan BCS
• Hotel Perro Surfero Todos Santos
• Baja Temple
• Guaycura Boutique Hotel

8. Cabo – Baja California Road Trip

There’s a lot in this area that I avoided, because I had the freedom in a van to avoid overly crowded touristy destinations. But some places in this area were absolutely worth the hype. There is a big food scene that is definitely worth checking out here as well as many beaches that are a bit more tucked away.

Things to do in Cabo Baja California Sur Road Trip Guide:

• Eat at El Huerto Farm to Table. I had brunch here and it absolutely BLEW me away. The atmosphere is also incredible and was well worth the trip into town for this.
• Take a cooking class at Flora Farms . This was recommended to me SEVERAL times. I ended up eating there and touring the farms, but need to go back for the cooking classes.
• Take a boat tour to the famous Cabo Arch!
• Go whale watching!!
• Zipline in the mountains
• Get Cocktails at Esperanza with a mezcal unique to this resort.
• Take a day trip to La Fortuna and visit Zai Sushi

Where to Stay in Cabo:

• Los Cabos Glamping
• El Tule Beach (rustic camping no amenities)
• Hotel Tesoro
• Mayan Monkey
• Solmar Resort
• The Bungalows Hotel

9. Sierra La Laguna

A lot of people do this as a day trip from Cabo, and that is totally doable, but I personally recommend several days up in the mountains of Baja. After spending so much time in beach communities, it was incredible to have a change of scenery and FRESH water swimming holes. The communities in these parts are small, but so charming and really gives a different feel to Baja California Sur with a lot more eco tourism.

The Sierra La Laguna area is known to be one of the LEAST visited areas in all of Baja which absolutely blows my mind because it was arguably my favorite spot. It is pretty remote and lacks most of the “tourist luxuries” of plenty of restaurants and stays, but I promise it is worth it.

Things to do in Sierra La Laguna Baja California Sur:

• DO visit Cañón de la Zorra (Fox Canyon) Nature Preserve
• Swim in the Sol de Mayo Waterfall (about 40 foot waterfall!). This is located within the canyon listed above. Pay for a wristband at the Rancho Ecologico Sol de Mayo. It is a short, but steep hike that will take approximately 15-25 minutes.
• Stay at Rancho Ecologico Sol de Mayo. I loved camping here. It is pretty bare bones as far as amenities go, but being camped RIGHT next to the waterfall trailhead was incredible. I think I went down to the waterfall 3 times a day haha.
• Check out Santa Rita Hot Springs
• Walk around the small desert mountain town of Santiago!

If you are not feeling up for a self guided tour of what this area has to offer there are MANY tours that often leave from Cabo:

• Day Trip to the Waterfall
• Stay at Rancho Ecologico Sol de Mayo in a tent, your rig or in one of their rustic cabins.
• Stay in Santiago at the only hotel Don Julio. It has very positive reviews. +52 624 159 1909

Baja Mexico Road Trip Bucketlist:

I wasn’t able to check out every place and am very much looking forward to coming back. I want to share what’s on my bucketlist for next year:

• Ensenada: I’ve heard fantastic things about this surf town, although a bit more touristy than other parts because it is a cruise ship port. But because of this, there are a lot of food and nightlife options
• Valle De Guadelupe: I am SO sad I didn’t get around to visiting here. It is known for incredible vineyards and wine. I am planning to use harvest host to camp on site at some wineries next year to get the full experience.

Conclusion: Baja California Road Trip

I think you can see that there are a LOT of options to have the ultimate Baja California Road Trip. No matter the length of time you have or where you go, it will be an experience that you won’t forget. I know for myself, I’ll be back every year revisiting favorites and finding new ones. Overall, I saved so much money living on the road here and the food and produce had me feeling healthier than I have been in a long time.

Safety of course is always one of the biggest concerns, and I felt very safe here. After the initial “culture shock” of military checkpoints wore off after day one, I was so at ease and relaxed during my 2 month stay here.

Looking for other international Road Trips? Check out my Norway Itinerary

Any questions or concerns? Let me know in the comments.

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Joshua Tree with beaches and taquerias? No, just an epic Baja road trip

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The road ahead stretches 1,063 miles, beginning at the Mexican border. Outside your car window, you see the cactus-and-boulder expanses of Joshua Tree — but with beaches. Or maybe it’s the Outback of Australia, with taquerias.

It’s the Baja peninsula’s Highway 1 that I’m talking about. For eight days this winter — just before the latest burst of cartel violence claimed three lives on Mexico’s east coast — I followed the road from the border to its rocky conclusion in Cabo San Lucas. The journey included six-fingered giants, baby whales, tropical fish, dry lakes, half-forgotten missions, sons of pioneers, yacht people, panga people, tricked-out trucks and tenacious cyclists.

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I was looking for change. It’s been 50 years since the opening of the first paved road through the badlands connecting Baja’s north and south; 30 years since I drove the whole road for the first time; and 15 years since the surge of cartel violence, mostly on the mainland and in Tijuana, that has shaken Mexicans’ faith in their leaders and kept many Americans away.

This road-trip journal is about who and what I found in Baja’s outback: a new generation of adventurers, spurred by pandemic restlessness and outfitted with tools and toys their parents probably never imagined. Often they explore alongside hardy Bajacalifornianos whose ancestors arrived a century ago.

While many Americans stay away, these travelers and their guides range deep into a gorgeous, deadly landscape that has remained essentially unchanged for decades — except for the part that’s utterly transformed.

“The amount of money you see on the road!” said Cruz Santiago, who has been visiting with his wife from Oregon since 1997. “That’s totally changed.”

Since the worst months of the pandemic, Baja tourists have largely resumed lolling in resorts, wintering in RVs, sportfishing, joining off-road races and raising hell in Cabo San Lucas nightclubs. Thanks to the enduring appeal of warm winters, long beaches and stiff drinks — even in the shadow of an epidemic on a peninsula starved for water — Los Cabos tourism reached record levels in 2022.

An off-roading adventure along the Baja peninsula coast. (Brian van der Brug / Los Angeles Times)

But now many other Baja visitors arrive from the north in trucks, SUVs, vans and motorcycles rigged for camping and backroad overlanding , a booming pastime that barely existed a decade ago.

Other visitors steer fortified mountain bikes on the Baja Divide, a 1,673-mile dirt route that was charted in 2015-16.

They can pinpoint cave paintings and surf spots by satellite with their phones; cozy up to gray whales for Instagram snaps; snorkel with whale sharks near La Paz; kite-surf at La Ventana ; spurn fishing in favor of watching striped marlin attack sardines near Magdalena Bay or mobula rays migrating off the East Cape. They send up drones over the coast, which is longer than those of California, Oregon and Washington combined. (And until January, if you were brave or foolish enough, you could even have gone cage-diving among great white sharks off Baja’s west coast —but Mexican authorities put a stop to that after several safety scares.)

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Cave paintings. Missions. A lagoon where gray whales gather. Whether you’re taking on the whole highway or targeting one stretch, the landscape is full of revelations.

Meanwhile, citing high crime and homicides in Tijuana, the U.S. State Department urges Americans to reconsider travel to northern Baja, to take extra care in the south and to stay entirely away from six other Mexican states on the mainland. (Matamoros, where two Americans and one Mexican were killed in an early March kidnapping attempt, is in Tamaulipas state, about as far from Tijuana as Los Angeles is from Houston.)

With all that in mind, I planned to sidestep Tijuana and spend less than 36 hours in northern Baja. I also hired bilingual guide Nathan Stuart, 41, who lives in Ensenada and co-founded Legends Overlanding in 2020.

Along with Times photographer Brian van der Brug, we rented a truck from San Diego-based Topoterra, which since 2017 has specialized in off-grid vehicle and camping rentals.

“Baja just eats up time,” Stuart warned as we began to plot our itinerary. “There’s a lot to see.”

The first time, in a Toyota 4Runner

From my first trip down this road — back in 1992, with Times photographer Patrick Downs — I knew Stuart was right.

On that journey we rented a Toyota 4Runner, slept in hotels, relied on my sketchy Spanish, paid about $1.75 a gallon for gas and had to get towed out of trouble on a steep slope in Mulegé.

This time, with Stuart driving and translating, we would buckle into a RAM 2500 truck with heated seats, 37-inch tires, a crew cab and a GoFast camper shell with a retractable tent on top. This was a $100,000 rig, rented for $239 a day.

Almost immediately, we knew, it would be cloaked in dust and mud, like most long-haul Baja vehicles. Apart from our highway time, we would log about 350 miles on dirt roads built for anglers, miners and ranchers.

For communication we had Starlink, a subscription service that allows satellite internet access from just about anywhere. For entertainment, we would have Billie, Stuart’s border collie.

Most nights, we would camp on remote beaches and ranch land with owners’ permission. And without a doubt, we’d need to improvise here and there.

Though many Alta Californians don’t realize it, the Baja peninsula is twice the size of Ireland and is divided into two states. The state of Baja California begins at Tijuana and ends about 450 miles south at the 28th parallel of latitude.

Below that point, you’re in Baja California Sur, which has its own time zone and one of Mexico’s lowest crime rates .

Whether you’re north or south, “Connecting with a local is what makes you safe,” Stuart said.

Mile 69: Beneath the Valle de Guadalupe

By 11 a.m. on Day 1 we were in the dark. This was in the Guadalupe Valley, just outside Ensenada.

Step by step, we descended into an underground room dominated by a petrified oak tree, 35 feet high and 200 years old. I thought Doctor Who might materialize from another dimension at any moment. Instead somebody popped open a bottle of wine.

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This was the tasting room of the Bruma winery (open since 2016), one of more than 150 wineries and dozens of lodgings in the valley now, a number that grew fast for a decade, then stalled during the pandemic.

“We give a lot of value and symbolism to nature,” said attendant Heraclio Ojeda, 29, fluent in English, Spanish and the argot of wine professionals everywhere. Ojeda poured and told us about Bruma winemaker Lulu Martinez Ojeda and the 200-acre winery, which includes the popular Fauna restaurant.

As if the valley’s growing winery count weren’t enough, here’s another measure of change: Fauna’s celebrated chef, trained in Copenhagen and New York, is Ensenada-born David Castro Hussong, part of the same German-Mexican family that founded Hussong’s Cantina in 1892.

In a setting nothing like that raucous bar (which lives on in Ensenada), we sat at a long table on Fauna’s patio and attacked the lettuce-with-mackerel starter, the broccoli with chiltepin peppers, the cabbage with chilhuacle peppers and the lamb. First meal of the trip. And the best.

Then it was time to join Highway 1, creep through traffic-choked Ensenada and turn from luxe to rustic.

As Ensenada faded in the rearview mirror and civilization began to fall away, it got easier to picture 1973, when Highway 1 became the first paved road to connect the peninsula’s northern and southern halves.

“The result could be a modern paradise or a tourist slum,” wrote Philip Fradkin of The Times back then. Many Baja-savvy American off-roaders, surfers, anglers and conservationists, Fradkin added, “wring their hands in despair at the thought of the road being completed. Mexicans look forward to such basics as electricity, telephones, freezers, television, fresh foods, more jobs and a share in the new wealth.”

Mile 250: Mama’s people in El Rosario

If outback Baja’s pioneers had a royal family, Anita Grosso Espinoza, better known as Mama, might be part of it. She was one of several children born to a Pima Indian mother and a father who came from Italy in 1880.

Beginning in the 1930s, Mama Espinoza ran a restaurant, lodging and gas station near the blacktop’s end in El Rosario, about 220 miles south of the border.

By the time the highway opened, Mama Espinoza was famous in the region, a bilingual wife, mother, entrepreneur and philanthropist known for her lobster tacos and a ledger book signed by Steve McQueen and James Garner.

“Bad roads, heavy-duty people,” she liked to say. “Good roads, all kind of people.”

Though Mama died in 2016 (estimated age: 105), her restaurant endures. Inside, sipping coffee beneath her portrait, I found Hector Espinoza, 64, a relative of Mama, retired commercial diver and former mayor of El Rosario.

He showed me around the artifact room and told me to savor the Valle de los Cirios , just ahead.

“There’s nothing like it in the world,” Espinoza said.

This is where the highway turns away from the Pacific, entering a world defined by sand, boulders, spines, thorns and only-in-Mexico specimens like the cirio tree, which is tapered like a candle and topped by a blossom of flaming yellow.

Instead of the Joshua trees and saguaro cactuses of Alta California and Arizona, the valley teems with yuccas and cardon cactuses — an almost parallel universe, almost empty of people. Some of the cardons reach 60 feet, flanking the narrow highway like toll gates, making the road look narrower than it is.

But it really is narrow. For most of the next 400 miles, the two-lane highway is 20 feet wide with no shoulder and very few turnouts. This leaves truckers and bus drivers inches to spare, even before they start thinking about meandering cows and donkeys. For good reason, Bajacalifornianos urge all drivers to travel during daylight.

Also, once you pass the El Rosario Pemex station heading south, it’s 200 miles to the next proper gas station.

“The road is very dangerous,” Espinoza said, recalling the government’s promises to widen the road soon after its completion. “In 50 years they’ve done nothing.”

Mile 326: Cataviña dawn and a bed of coals

We camped outside Cataviña, about two miles off the highway. In the morning, like a tortoise emerging from its portable home, I looked out from my rooftop tent as first light fell on the desert.

Of the 120 species of cactuses said to be on the peninsula, about 118 seemed to have gathered to hear our snoring. Once we had coffee in us, Stuart nodded toward a gap between 20-foot-high boulders and we stepped in. Ancient handprints. Dark hashmarks.

This amazed me — until about an hour later, when we reached another cave, this one crawling with black, red and orange hashmarks, circles and a sun with radiating lines.

“That sun?” said local guide Nathan Velasco, 34. “When you count, there are 13 rays, and there are 13 lunar cycles. … It’s all original.”

Velasco had joined us for lunch at his family’s Café La Enramada in Cataviña.

We talked about rock art and the Yuman, Cochimi, Monqui, Guaycura and Pericú people who lived in Baja up to 10,000 years ago . We also talked about Mama Espinoza — because Velasco also is related to her.

That’s when Emily Smith and Nick Tornambe rolled up and stepped in.

Smith, 27, had come from Georgia; Tornambe, 26, from Pennsylvania. They had been pedaling their long-haul mountain bikes for 16 days on the Baja Divide trail. With luck they’d reach La Paz in a month.

“Our favorite campsite was two nights ago, in this wash. We had to cross the riverbed with our bicycles and it was getting dusk,” Smith said. “The moon was rising. We decided to stop. And Nick built this massive fire…”

“And then we let the coals die down,” Tornambe continued, “and covered it back up, and slept on top of that. So it was like this heated bed. Quite nice.”

Mile 362: Fast cars and smuggled parrots in Laguna Chapala

Not far beyond Cataviña, the highway reaches Laguna Chapala, a dry lake bed that people drove on before the highway opened. Now the road skirts the lake, but you can still take your car or bike out on the flats, stomp on the gas and kick up dust. Some overlanders and off-roaders spend hours roaring back and forth, Stuart told us, with drones scrambled above to capture the scene.

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So of course we had to try that. And we needed to meet Eugenio Grosso Peralta, 66, who has been running a ranch, store and restaurant by the dry lake for decades, as his father did before him, and as his son is doing now at the Nueva Chapala restaurant next door.

Of course Eugenio Grosso is related to Mama Espinoza. He’s her nephew. And his father, Arturo Grosso, brother of Mama E., was a renowned road builder and raconteur.

Standing before a set of family portraits and using a flyswatter as a pointer, Grosso gave us the story.

His father was facing punishment in 1925 for desertion from the Mexican military, Eugenio said. But a general gave him a chance to clear his name. All he had to do was scrape 250 miles of mule trails into shape as a drivable dirt road between El Rosario and the mining town of El Arco to the south.

Somehow, Arturo got it done in about a year. Later, he blazed a road to San Felipe and fathered Eugenio when he was 64. By the time Arturo died in 1977, he had told countless visitors the story of the smugglers who once stopped at Chapala on their way north. Parrot smugglers.

Arturo was polite to them, then forgot about it. Then one day on a trip to San Diego, he passed a birdcage on the sidewalk and heard two chirpy voices.

“Hey!” said one of them, as the story goes. “Isn’t that Arturo Grosso from Chapala?”

Mile 475: From tall tales to gray whales at Guerrero Negro

Laguna Ojo de Liebre (a.k.a. Scammon’s Lagoon) is about halfway down the peninsula on its west coast. Every winter, hundreds of gray whales migrate from the Arctic to these waters, wedged between vast sand dunes and even vaster salt flats, to give birth. The busiest months are February and March.

We boarded a panga, headed to a likely corner of the lagoon and saw — well, were seeing so little that a few fishermen felt comfortable motoring over to show off their lobster catch. Consolation creatures.

Fortunately, once I’d caught on with another panga, the excitement escalated.

Tapping gently on his boat to attract cetacean attention, this captain quickly had us within 30, 20, even 10 feet of calves and adult whales up to 40 feet long. We didn’t get to touch them, as many visitors do, but we had front-row seats as they dived and breached, fluttered flukes and sent up wet blasts of air through their blowholes.

“They’re just so majestic, so large, so gentle and so elusive,” said Chris Diamond-Santiago, another visitor. “There’s something magical about them.”

Mile 476: My turn to float

The nearest city to the lagoon is Guerrero Negro, where few visitors linger. It’s mostly a company town, built in the 1950s to support the surrounding saltworks. But Carlos Couttolenc, a guide who grew up in town, has been working on a new tour based on something he did there as a kid: jumping into an evaporation pond.

As he explained, these ponds are highly saline, like the Dead Sea, so you float atop the water, which is thickened by magnesium chloride. Because crystals form in and around the ponds, you’re surrounded by a flat, crunchy white surface. To me it looked like Death Valley and the Dead Sea, together at last.

It was the prettiest publicly accessible pond of industrial byproducts I’ve ever seen. I wanted in.

“Yes,” said Couttolenc. “You will be a superhero now. Or something.”

Normal visitors will be offered an easy way into the water and a shower after. My entrance and exit were more awkward — a little blood, a little stinging. But the sensation of leaning back and floating in blue goo while surrounded by bright white crystals? This was memorable.

“And you should see this at sunset,” said Couttolenc.

We’d covered about 440 miles now. Though we had come across some damage left by Hurricane Kay last September, the only disquieting moment had come in a chance conversation by a gas pump.

Stuart had asked a service station attendant from Sinaloa how she’d landed in Baja.

“They killed my husband,” she said.

All we could do was apologize.

Mile 530: The giants of Mesa del Carmen and the mechanic of San Ignacio

We were about 100 miles north of San Ignacio when the six-fingered giants confronted us.

Stuart had taken us 35 miles off the blacktop and our truck was positioned at the foot of a desert outcropping called Mesa del Carmen.

We’d already seen a full moon rise over this landscape and felt the temperature drop into the 30s. Now it was early morning. Following Stuart up a short, steep trail, van der Brug and I reached a cave, stopped and gawked.

Four oversized men and women stood above us, some with six fingers, all painted on the curving rock wall. The scene also included several deer and fish painted in red and black. To paint the people’s heads, the artist must have stood on scaffolding. Except, as Stuart pointed out, “There’s no lumber for, like, 100 miles.”

We carried our unanswered questions to the south and east, launching into a medley of old towns and beaches along the Gulf of California.

First up: San Ignacio, an oasis that must have looked like a mirage to desert-weary adventurers in the pre-highway years. More palms than people and figs on every menu. A gaggle of 18th century buildings huddled around the plaza. The population, around 1,500, hasn’t much changed in 50 years.

But the 21st century has arrived. I counted three overlanding trucks parked around the plaza, and three motorcycles outfitted for long rides. On the patio of El Rancho Grande restaurant, manager Oscar Fischer, 28, told us how his great-grandfather, Frank Fischer, came to Baja from Germany in 1910.

“He came with a fishing ship, had a fight and deserted,” Fischer said. “He hid himself in the desert and spent two months to get here, God knows eating what.”

Fischer, who was already a skilled blacksmith, learned Spanish and taught himself to be a car mechanic. For decades, Baja adventurers sought him out. Fischer died just months before the highway finally opened, but to this day, half of the businesses in San Ignacio seem to be run by his grandchildren and great-grandchildren.

Next up, an hour east of San Ignacio, was Santa Rosalía, where the Rothschild family bankrolled a copper mine in the 1880s, spawning a strangely Frenchified town.

As the highway approaches from the north, you glimpse the Gulf of California for the first time. But before the beauty can sink in, you’re surrounded by a dump and industrial zone. Then you turn right to go up the city’s main street and you’re surrounded by wooden buildings on a peninsula with precious but few trees. Where did the French get that wood?

Then you come to the town’s most startling building, which is not wood. It’s the Church of Santa Barbara, a prefab structure designed in Europe and made of metal. From the inside, it looks like a Quonset hut with stained-glass windows. Yet it is credited to Gustave Eiffel, who also designed a certain tower in Paris.

The third town in our medley was palm-shaded Mulegé, where I needed towing on that first Baja road trip. This time traffic ensnared us. Then a propane vendor stood us up. We bought firewood instead and blasted off again, because after so many citified hours, we were ready for the still, blue-green waters of Bahía de Concepción.

Mile 765: The beautiful thing we burned

Just beyond Playa el Requeson, where two dozen RVs were lined up on a long sand bar with lapping waters on either side, we turned off the highway, feeling our way along the finger of land that protects the bay.

On this rugged path we met a farmer, asked his permission to camp, and pulled up at water’s edge, 12 miles off the highway.

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The sun was setting behind the glassy bay. Stuart grabbed a sun-bleached cactus skeleton and carried it to our campfire like a pallbearer approaching a gravesite.

“This will be the most beautiful piece of wood I’ve ever burned,” he said.

Sunrise was even better than sunset, because we got to see the light creep up the serrated Sierra de la Giganta mountains. Best campsite of the trip.

By lunchtime, we were in the mountains above Loreto, whispering inside a stone church that was completed in 1758.

Small and remote as it is, many people consider the hamlet of San Javier (population: about 40 families) the birthplace of agriculture in the Californias. Though its church isn’t as old as the Loreto mission (founded in 1697), San Javier’s has more charisma.

Maybe that comes from the rugged mountains all around, or the twisting 21-mile road in from the highway, or the 300-year-old olive tree outside, or the local families that still work the neighboring fields. In any event, many experts consider San Javier to be the best-preserved mission on the peninsula.

Best building in Baja? Maybe.

Mile 1,063: The spokesmodel at Land’s End

At this point, the weather had been kind to us for close to a week. Now it kicked sand in our faces.

As we passed La Paz and neared the bottom of the peninsula, a big wind blew in from the north, clouding the waters of Cabo Pulmo National Marine Park.

We jumped in anyway. In preparing for the trip, I’d read that Cabo Pulmo was a fishing stronghold until the fish nearly ran out in the 1990s. That’s when local families allied themselves with conservationists and the national park was created. With fishing now banned, the fish are back. The reefs are in remarkably good shape . As is the local economy.

“More and more restaurants. More and more dive shops,” said dive guide Oscar Cortes, 34.

As we snorkeled, sea lions swooped close. Hundreds of bigeye jack fish wrapped around me like a silver curtain. Moorish idols, bicolor parrotfish, king angelfish and Gulf grouper, spotted porcupinefish and reef cornetfish all made appearances, their scales flashing like faulty pixels.

Back on the road, we followed the coastline of the peninsula’s East Cape, passing miles of semi-lonely beaches and scores of fast-rising vacation homes. The East Cape is filling up fast.

The nearby mountains are changing too. When we hiked to a waterfall in the Rancho Ecologico Sol de Mayo , we found ample signage, steps cut in the rock and guide ropes — the first I’d seen in about 900 miles.

Heading up the tourist corridor to Cabo San Lucas, I remembered driving the same stretch of road 31 years before.

Back then, I was amazed that in 20 years San Lucas had grown from a fishing village of fewer than 5,000 residents to about 20,000.

Now the towns of San Lucas and San Jose have effectively merged into the destination we call Los Cabos, and their population has surpassed 350,000 . Los Cabos got 3.3 million visitors last year, the vast majority by air.

Cruise ships and yachts call daily in fall and winter. Early last year the average daily hotel rate in Los Cabos hit $455, the highest in Mexico, and the resorts keep coming. A swishy Four Seasons is due in 2023, a swishier Aman in 2024.

Now we had completed 99% of our mission trouble-free. Except that back in Ensenada, Stuart’s home had been burglarized. And at a Rosarito Beach resort, a 33-year-old public defender named Elliot Blair would die the next morning from head injuries that remain unexplained. Meanwhile in Alta California, six mass shootings were about to happen in the next two weeks.

“Is it safe anywhere you go these days?,” Brandon Thomason of Topoterra had asked a few weeks before, renting us the truck. “You can always be at the wrong place at the right time.”

We parked at the Cabo San Lucas marina, boarded a tour boat (not just glass-bottomed but entirely see-through) and joined dozens of vessels jostling for position. A hostess in spokesmodel makeup rose with a microphone to read robotically from a bilingual script.

We’d reached Land’s End, the peninsula’s iconic natural rock arch, just in time for sunset. The pelicans swooped in golden light. Waves crashed against the rocks.

“This is the end of the Baja California peninsula,” read the hostess from her script. “Or it’s the beginning.”

Watch L.A. Times Today at 7 p.m. on Spectrum News 1 on Channel 1 or live stream on the Spectrum News App. Palos Verdes Peninsula and Orange County viewers can watch on Cox Systems on channel 99.

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Born and raised in California, Christopher Reynolds has written about travel, the outdoors, arts and culture for the Los Angeles Times since 1990.

Brian van der Brug has been a staff photojournalist at the Los Angeles Times since 1997.

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