the guardian travel ischia

Elena Ferrante’s Ischia: an Italian island paradise

A short ferry ride from Naples, Ischia’s rustic villages – wonderfully evoked by the Italian novelist – have retained their charm and beauty

F ew works of fiction have captured the sultry grittiness of southern Italy like Elena Ferrante’s wildly successful Neapolitan quartet, which concluded this month with the English translation of The Story of the Lost Child . Ferrante’s 1950s Naples is a chaotic mire of sweat and stymied ambition – a place her characters all struggle to escape. But with a hop across the Gulf of Naples, Ferrante transports readers to paradise.

A one-hour ferry ride from the city, Ischia is a 17-square-mile island of parched tufa and bougainvillea that has hardly changed since the languid summers when Ferrante’s teenage protagonists – fleeing Naples’ stultifying heat and poverty – discover their respective sexualities on the thermal beach at Maronti . Even today, the majority of visitors to Ischia are Italians; many, like Ferrante’s Elena and Lila, are Neapolitans from across the bay, often returning to the same guesthouses and rental apartments every year, each summer a chance to catch up with old friends.

And although the island’s larger towns – Ischia Porto, Forio, and Lacco Ameno – have turned into an even more rarefied imitation of nearby Capri (rooms at the Albergo della Regina Isabella , beloved by Richard Burton and Elizabeth Taylor, can cost £384 a night), its villages still evoke the languid days of Ferrante’s heroines.

Mules may no longer hoist suitcases up the steep hills of Sant’Angelo – a white-washed village of gelaterias and ceramic shops, a 20-minute walk from where Ferrante’s Elena lost her virginity on a moonlit beach – but the village is still car-free: only the odd miniature luggage truck is allowed through the narrow streets. On the hilltop is the Casa Garibaldi B&B (doubles from £55), a sprawling family-run garden complex of mosaicked terraces and thermal pools. Owner Luisa Iacono saves the same rooms for the same regulars every year, while her mother, Giuseppina, has been making the same special brioche for weekend breakfasts since the 1990s. Along the Maronti seafront, tables at Ristorante Emmanuela are fully booked by 10am. While Emmanuela herself has retired from the kitchen – replaced by various children and eager in-laws, she still maintains tasting rights over her signature spaghetti all’Emmanuela – fresh rock-caught shellfish tossed in a tomato sauce that, as with most sauces in Italy’s south, betrays a hint of piquant peperoncino (chilli).

A few minutes’ walk up a hillside path dotted with darting lizards, the sea-facing thermal pool complex at Aphrodite Apollon evokes an extended classical ruin: the flower-draped pools – each named after a Greco-Roman deity – are all but dissolving into the cliffside. But for those in search of a more organic spa experience, a 40-minute hike through volcanic gorges leads to Cavascura , a tiny shack-like spa over thermal springs whose use dates back to Roman times. Massages here are still done with fango ( therapeutic mud), the saunas are built into the cave, and the water for the showers is warmed by the springs themselves.

That’s not to say Sant’Angelo is excessively traditionalist. At dusk, visitors and locals fill the town square, and bars such as the eclectic if pricey Tavernetta del Pirata – something between a ceramic shop and a 1950s-style American piano bar – overflow with revellers seeking chilled limoncello and genial raucousness.

A few diners and yachting daytrippers in search of a more formal evening head to the elegantly minimalist Neptunus along the coast, but everybody else heads to the gregariously crowded pizzerias. Regulars swear by intimate Da Pasquale . The narrow isthmus that connects the old town to a marina beneath a gargantuan stone outcrop becomes a kind of bar of its own, as teenagers share gelatos (locals go to Pasticceria Dolce è la Vita just behind the main square) and cigarettes under the stars.

But Ischia’s greatest enchantment lies not in its villages, nor even in the shimmering of its seaside – but in its hills, where few tourists venture. Around the 789-metre Monte Epomeo, Ischia’s landscape changes dramatically. Dusty cliffs and flowers give way to brambles, white lava and darkly green vineyards.

Most visitors to Ischia’s mountain tend to do as Ferrante’s Elena and her unworthy beloved Nino did and make straight for the top of Epomeo – an hour-long scramble from the village of Fontana, to be rewarded not just by sea views but by lunch at La Grotta da Fiore , which is carved into the soft volcanic rock. But a longer stay – wandering the many narrow lanes that wind off the island’s single ring road – yields more of Ischia’s secrets. The hamlets between Sant’Angelo and Epomeo – Serrara, Fontana, Noia – are simple, geometric villages: each with pale painted houses, a 19th-century church with painted statues of Mary and the archangels and one or two bars for espressos and fresh spremuta d’arancia (orange juice).

Up here the food is different, too: not seafood but fresh mountain rabbit, prepared all’ischitana , with fresh herbs and fresher tomatoes. The vine-strewn restaurants here are often deserted – for lunch, it can be necessary to call (and secure a rabbit) in advance. At the best of these, Il Comignolo , such a telephone call procures a whole-day affair: rabbit transformed first into an earthy sugo (sauce) for chewy bucatini (spaghetti with a hole through the middle,) then served for main course in a still-sizzling stew (dessert is grapes, fresh-picked from the terrace).

Moments before embarking on her first affair, Ferrante’s narrator, Elena Greco, contemplates the sensual idleness of the island. “Now the moon was visible amid scattered pale-edged clouds; the evening was very fragrant, and you could hear the hypnotic rhythm of the waves.”

Nothing much has changed.

• Italy holidays
• Naples holidays
• Literary trips
• Short breaks
• Weekend breaks
• Europe holidays
• Elena Ferrante

Comments (…)

Most viewed.

• Share full article

Advertisement

Supported by

This Is Ischia’s Moment in the Sun

The Italian island, long in the shadow of its fashionable neighbor, Capri, is newly chic, but remains deeply authentic, with rocky harbors more likely to dock fishing boats than megayachts.

By Ondine Cohane

I fell for Ischia well before I ever visited it in person. In the 1999 film “The Talented Mr. Ripley,” the scene where Tom, the main character, “happens” upon Marge and Dickie, the couple he is pursuing, was filmed beneath the island’s Aragonese castle on its golden beach (the Spiaggia dei Pescatori, the beach of the fishermen). The couple’s beautiful, tanned physiques and relaxed smiles, the perfect sand and tranquil sea, were a cinematic ad to move to Italy, and to Ischia, immediately.

Ischia is one of a trio of islands (known as the Phlegraeans) off Naples that also includes Capri and Procida . Capri’s size and popularity with day trippers means it can easily feel overrun and overexposed. Procida is the smallest of the three and has never gotten the attention of its siblings (although it too is worth a visit for its pastel villages and artisan workshops).

Ischia’s magic is that it’s suspended between the newly chic — with the recent overhaul of the Mezzatorre Hotel by the hotelier Marie-Louise Sció, who brought a crowd that had never heard of the island but were fans of her über-photogenic hotels — and the authentic. There are simple bars, beach clubs and harbors more likely to dock fishing boats than megayachts. With a surface area of almost 18 square miles, the island is home to a number of charming villages to explore like Forio, Ischia Ponte, Sant’Angelo and Casamicciola, among others. Add in natural thermal spas, lush vineyards and deserted coves, and it’s easy to see why Ischia is quickly become one of Italy’s rising destinations.

Taking the baths

My first morning on the island, it is raining so hard I head to the spa at Mezzatorre above Forio. Many of the properties on Ischia are built on top of the island’s thermal springs, a gift freely given by the still active volcano at the island’s heart. According to myth, Zeus vanquished Tifeo, one of the Titans who tried to attack Olympus, underground here and the trapped god’s angry breath created thermal springs and fumaroles. The spas here have a strong medical component and the main attractions are the island’s therapeutic mud and waters of various temperatures that gurgle their way from underground to combat rheumatism, respiratory issues and skin conditions like dermatosis. (At Sant’Angelo, the beach is so hot that locals cook eggs and rabbit under the sand.)

Dr. Giulio Uggiano is Mezzatorre’s resident doctor, a kind older man who takes my blood pressure, examines my nose and ears, and listens to my heart before giving me the go-ahead for a mud treatment. I have a bit of congestion in my lungs, he says. Amedeo, my technician, also a kind, grandfatherly type and a longtime Mezzatorre employee, covers me with hot green mud and wraps me in plastic. I ask him about his family as he trusses me. He is one of 12 children and has worked with the water’s healing properties since he was 14. I feel a bit like a basted turkey, but it’s also incredibly relaxing and warm on this chilly Monday to stew in my own juices. After half an hour, I shower off the leftover mud, before taking to the three pools of various temperatures. My congestion does feel lighter, and my skin shines.

Mezzatorre has arguably the most idyllic position of all the island’s hotels: It’s perched on a finger of land, with a craggy cove, a rocky promontory for sun worshippers, a view onto the bay of Naples and the beach of San Montano below. Ms. Sció reopened the hotel in the summer of 2019, before the pandemic hit. Her other properties, which include J. Paul Getty’s former villa, La Posta Vecchia, outside Rome, already have a high-wattage following. “Ischia is the real deal,” she said about her decision to open a property here. “It’s wild and wonderful. And I don’t like obvious places.”

Ms. Sció and the owners of many other hotels and restaurants on the island have joined forces to form a conglomerate called Ischia Is More to highlight the island’s diverse attractions, everything from its film festival in July to the hikes up Mount Epomeo, the island’s highest peak, which are particularly beautiful in late spring when the wildflowers bloom.

Skeletons and flowers

Castello Aragonese, in the town of Ischia Ponte, is one of Ischia’s musts, both for its views and history. First built in 474 B.C., the castle as it stands now was constructed by King Alfonso of Aragon in the 1400s, with art-installation-worthy ramps, lookouts and interior courtyards (12-euro entry). The 1963 movie “Cleopatra,” starring Liz Taylor and Richard Burton, was, in part, filmed here, and the two actors, married, but not to each other, started a full-blown affair on Ischia, to the delight of the paparazzi.

The frescoes from Giotto’s school in the castle’s Cattedrale dell’ Assunta are spectacular as are the views of Capri from the top, but I am most struck by the story of a ritual carried out at the Convent of Santa Maria della Consolazione, which is part of the complex. The corpses of deceased nuns were brought to its crypt, and placed on stone benches with their necks and hands chained to keep them upright while they decomposed. Living devotees would come and take the draining liquid to dispose of their bile until all that remained were the skeletons and chains. The air in these rooms was so toxic that the younger nuns would often die from the fumes. I shudder, but it helps me appreciate the sea air even more when I get outside.

The story of another great attraction, the botanical gardens of La Mortella in Forio actually starts in Buenos Aires in 1948, where the composer William Walton met his Argentine bride, Susana. After a fruitless search for a property they liked on the Amalfi Coast, they came to Ischia instead. Walton bought her five acres of land and she set out, with the help of the renowned garden designer Russell Page, to create a world-famous garden inspired at least partly by Spain’s Alhambra Palace. The microclimate, protected by the mountain, is a fertile valley full of stone pine trees, Brazilian flame trees, Arabic fountains, birds of paradise, magnolia trees and lotuses, papyrus, and hot and wet orchids, among other horticultural treasures (€12 entry).

Literary inspiration

On a Thursday morning, the island is waking up. A bagnino (lifeguard) is raking sand in front of a beach club. An older man stops into a cafe with his two dogs for a morning coffee and a pack of cigarettes. The church bell rings. The sun shines. A handsome local whom I have seen on my daily runs, smiles at me as he passes. I love the early mornings here. Traveling these days, I find I have to be increasingly strategic in my timing to see the authenticity of a place; Italy in general is experiencing a popularity that I have never seen in the 20 years I have lived here.

In the 1950s, when Truman Capote retreated here with his partner Jack Dunphy, few of Capote’s peers would have heard of this Mediterranean island, let alone visited. Which is exactly why he came to Ischia to work. He and Dunphy bunked at Ischia’s Pensione di Lustro for $200 a month, which included two five-course meals daily. (Tennessee Williams joined them briefly.)

The island made an appearance in both Elena Ferrante’s “My Brilliant Friend” novel and its spectacular HBO adaptation as the spot where the two teenage protagonists holiday: Mules carry their luggage up the steep cobblestone streets of Sant’Angelo, Elena loses her virginity on a moonlit beach, and the girls cavort on the thermal beach of Maronti. Like the girls, the reader relaxes into Ischia’s easy summer rhythms, away from stultifying and violent Naples. Ms. Ferrante writes, “Now the moon was visible amid scattered pale-edged clouds; the evening was very fragrant, and you could hear the hypnotic rhythm of the waves.” I am right there with her.

Come sail away

Perhaps the best way to spend a day on Ischia is by exploring the coast by motorboat, a much less expensive undertaking than on Capri or along the Amalfi Coast. On this day, my captain-guide is Giuseppe Puzella, and we chat as we head along the seafront. He left the island for many years to work for Carnival Cruises and then to London for another cruise line. But he always yearned to start a business on the island where he was born. “The slickness of Capri and Amalfi is missing here,” Mr. Puzella said. “It’s a working island which promotes tourism but wants to stay livable.”

We also talk about the heavy rain that caused a mudslide in the tiny town of Casamicciola last year, destroying homes and killing 11 residents.

We fall into easy silence as we pass O’Vagnitiello, a beautiful bay with transparent water surrounded by rocky outcroppings, and then San Pancrazio with its green grotto. This is the most solitary stretch of the island, with just the occasional sea bird whirling and crying out. We stop at Sorgeto, a set of natural rock pools filled by hot spring water right on the shoreline. I jump from the boat into the cold sea and swim as fast as I can to the warmth of the pools.

My first dip of the year makes me hungry and Mr. Puzella suggests lunch at Le Fumarole da Nicola, a family-owned restaurant by the sea that’s been around since 1950 near Sant’Angelo. A water taxi that costs a couple of euros takes us from our boat to the trattoria, which sits above the sea, and where we eat calamari and artichokes, sea bass and sun-ripened tomatoes.

Underneath the restaurant the family has created a natural sauna and hot pool from the thermal water that runs beneath it. It’s a trio of water treatments: a sauna in a rocky cave that’s seriously hot, followed by a jump into the sea and then a hot pool. I repeat the process a few times and then lie on the beach watching the fishing boats pass by. It’s the perfect simple day.

Ischia is just over an hour’s ferry ride from the main port of Naples, Napoli Beverello, and many of the hotels on the island offer free transfers from the ferry dock on the island.

The most upscale hotels, like the Mezzatorre Hotel and Thermal Spa , include destination spas — don’t miss the mud treatment (doubles from €495). The Regina Isabella , an old school grande dame on the water, also has a Michelin-starred restaurant, Indaco, run by the chef Pasquale Palamaro, and worth a meal even if you don’t stay there, doubles from €335).

The newly opened Botania Relais has the island’s ravishing vegetarian restaurant, Il Mirto (doubles from €350), while another grande dame, the San Montano Resort and Spa , recently opened chic new rooms from its birds’ nest location (doubles from €350, with free transfer to the great beach below). And Costa del Capitano has equally evocative views from its recently refurbished property above the sea near the picturesque village of Sant’Angelo (one-bedroom apartments from €470).

Just steps from Castello Aragonese, locals come to the restaurant Coco as frequently as tourists for its authentic seasonal dishes and the prices, which are very reasonable considering its prime position (Ponte Aragonese 1, no website). Nearby Giardino Eden is a must for its romantic position on the sea with the castle looming above — be sure to book well in advance — if you are looking for a beach club with a view, this is one of the best on Ischia.

For lunch, book a table at La Scannella , with its fabulous location overlooking the sea — the mozzarella comes from the owner’s buffalo nearby — and you can also reserve beach loungers and umbrellas below. If your itinerary includes a hike up Mount Epomeo, don’t miss lunch at La Grotta di Fiore (Via Epomeo, 21) for bruschetta and the island’s signature dish, rabbit.

The guide and captain Giuseppe Puzella recently launched Nestori Yachting and organizes boat trips both around Ischia as well as Capri and the Amalfi Coast (half-day tours, €650).

Based in Italy, Ondine Cohane, writes frequently for Travel. She is a co-author of “Always Italy,” published by National Geographic, and is currently writing a memoir.

Follow New York Times Travel on Instagram and sign up for our weekly Travel Dispatch newsletter to get expert tips on traveling smarter and inspiration for your next vacation. Dreaming up a future getaway or just armchair traveling? Check out our 52 Places to Go in 2023 .

An earlier version of this article in some places referred incorrectly to a town on Ischia. It is Sant’Angelo, not Castel Sant’Angelo.

An earlier version of this article incorrectly characterized a ritual carried out in part of the Castello Aragonese. It was deceased nuns’ bodies that were chained upright to decompose and living nuns who would dispose of the bile, sometimes dying from the toxic fumes, not monks. This took place in the Convent of Santa Maria della Consolazione, not the crypt of the Cattedrale dell’ Assunta. A photo caption with the earlier version also misidentified the room depicted, it is part of the cathedral crypt; it is not where the bodies were held.

How we handle corrections

Open Up Your World

Considering a trip, or just some armchair traveling here are some ideas..

52 Places:  Why do we travel? For food, culture, adventure, natural beauty? Our 2024 list has all those elements, and more .

Malmo, Sweden :  Admire art in a 17th-century castle, steam in a seaside bathhouse and unwind with an afternoon fika (coffee-and-cake break) in this diverse Swedish city .

Iceland:  In a country with nearly as many sheep as people, knitting tourism is on the rise. Our writer went on a D.I.Y. wool journey .

Fall Foliage Across the U.S.:  As autumn sweeps in, where will you go to get your fix of fiery golds and reds? Here are seven places beyond New England  where you can get an eyeful.

Getaways for Grown-Ups:  From the Tetons to the Caribbean, we found six adults-only hotels and resorts  for those who want to get away from it all.

The volcanic outcrop of Ischia is the most developed and largest of the islands in the Bay of Naples. An early colony of Magna Graecia, first settled in the 8th century BC, Ischia today is famed for its thermal spas, manicured gardens, striking Aragonese castle and unshowy, straightforward Italian airs – a feature also reflected in its food. Ischia is a refreshing antidote to glitzy Capri.

Attractions

Must-see attractions.

Castello Aragonese

There are castles and then there’s Ischia’s Castello Aragonese, a veritable fort-city set on its own craggy islet, looking like a cross between Harry…

La Mortella

A symphony of plants, La Mortella (the myrtles) is the former home and gardens of the late British composer William Walton (1902–83) and his Argentine…

The good news is that this museum is well signposted and has a car park. The bad news is that it's on a perilous corner on Ischia's mountain road between…

Museo Archeologico di Pithecusae

Housed in the elegant Villa Arbusto, former home of local celeb Angelo Rizzoli, the Museo Archeologico di Pithecusae enjoys a heady historical location…

Monte Epomeo

To anyone of average fitness, an ascent of Ischia’s slumbering volcanic peak is practically obligatory. The views from the rocky summit are superb. And,…

Baia di Sorgeto

Among all those posh, dreamy (sometimes expensive) spas, it's nice to have access to something that's thermal and free. Located at the bottom of 300 steps…

Giardini Ravino

The vision of local botanist Giuseppe D’Ambra, who has collected plants since the 1960s, this 6000-sq-metre garden pays homage to the not-so-humble cactus…

Chiesa di Santa Maria del Soccorso

This diminutive white church perched above the water in the town centre was originally part of a 14th-century Augustinian monastery; its side chapel and…

Plan with a local

Experience the real Italy

Let a local expert craft your dream trip.

Latest stories from Ischia

Filter by interest:

• All Interests
• Adventure Travel
• Art & Culture
• Beaches, Coasts & Islands
• Food & Drink

Aug 4, 2019 • 5 min read

Ischia is a small, but highly populated, volcanic island that is either one hour from Naples if you get the ferry, or 40 minutes if you get the hydrofoil.

Jul 30, 2018 • 6 min read

in partnership with getyourguide

Book popular activities in Ischia

Why the magical Italian island of Ischia is the perfect escape for last minute sunshine

Now that double-jabbed Brits no longer need to quarantine on arrival in Italy, many of us are scrambling to arrange a last minute slice of La Dolce Vita.

And while, the iconic island of Capri attracts tourists in their hordes for its dazzling scenery and designer shopping, those looking for something a little less flash (and more affordable) should look to nearby Ischia , another isle in the Bay of Naples that gets less airtime (at least among Brits).

You'd be forgiven for not having heard of Ischia. Relaxed, yet seductive, the volcanic island is home to over 100 thermal springs that have countless healing properties and make it a popular wellness destination for those in the know. That, combined with its stunning selection of beaches, picturesque villages and dramatic historical sites make it the perfect place to reset your mind, body and soul.

But you'd better make the trip soon, word is slowly getting out about the magic of Ischia, thanks in part to the 2018 HBO series My Brilliant Friend , based on Elena Ferrante's best-selling novel in which it features.

How to get there

Catch the boat from Naples. There's a high speed ferry that takes about an hour and slow ferry that takes an hour and a half. If you're eager to arrive early on the first day of your holiday, take the longer crossing on the way back, the stunning views across the Tyrrhenian Sea, are worth the extra 30 minutes, best enjoyed from the top deck. You'll also catch a glimpse of the colourful harbour of Procida, the bay's smallest island.

Getting around

There's no need to hire a car in Ischia, hurrah! The island is very well served by buses that run frequently and into the early hours. But definitely hire a boat to explore the magical island for yourself. At the main port, a day's hire starts at around €100, plus fuel. The endless 'gram opportunities will make it totally worth it.

What to see & do

There's a surprising amount to do on this tiny Tyrrhenian island. Combine a visit to one of the island's best beaches with a spot of self-care at one of its natural spas. Head to Maronti Beach (above) for dazzling turquoise water – at 3km long, it's one of the largest on the island. From here you can admire views of the picturesque fishing village of Sant'Angelo, with its pretty pastel-painted houses, while the ancient Roman baths of Cavascura , Ischia's oldest thermal waters, are etched into a cliff slightly inland from the beach. Wander up through the gorge until you can hear the trickling sound of hot springs. A standard spa entrance will cost you €15 and involves a natural hot shower and sauna – surprisingly soothing in 30 degree heat – followed by a 20-minute dip in a private preserved roman bath. Treat yourself to a healing lymphatic drainage massage or mud treatment to round things off.

Once you’re feeling suitably rejuvenated catch a water taxi to the small harbour at Sant’Angelo and settle down for drinks at the waterfront as you admire views of the volcanic rock it overlooks.

Had your beach fill? There are mountains to be climbed and subtropical gardens to be explored. Wake early (to avoid the midday heat) and take the hike up to Monte Eponeo, the highest point in the island. Be sure to stop for lunch at La Grotta da Fiore from where you can enjoy fantastic views of the island. Meanwhile, if you fancy some culture on your holiday, book a ticket for one of the open-air concerts performed on summer evenings by the youth orchestra at the botanical gardens of La Mortella . Tickets cost €20 and include entrance to the enchanting gardens.

Food & Drink

Aviation minister commits to tackling ‘long overdue’ airspace modernisation

Best Photos of the Day from around the world

Heinz 'spaghetti carbonara' taste test: a shocking lunchtime experience

Make education a priority with help from these acclaimed resources

For something traditional, everyone will direct you to Bracconiere to sample Ischia’s most famous dish, coniglio all’Ischitana, or rabbit stew. Located 480m above sea level in Serrara Fontana, it's a bit awkward to get to and will involve a taxi, but worth it. Call in advance, their Facebook page is best for contact details.

Ischia Porto is particularly fun at the weekends when it fills up with boats. Don't forget your gladrags. While Ischia is considered lower key than its glamorous neighbour, the holidaying Neapolitans still dress to impress here. Soak up the last of the day's sun over a cocktail or two at Cappuccino bar , the friendly owner Gianni will give you all the snacks and recos you could ask for as you watch the boats moor up for the day. There are plenty of restaurants to choose from along the harbour, though the squid ink pasta at Ristorante I Ricci deserves a special mention.

Continue on to Via Roma which is abuzz until late for more bars, a spot of shopping and gelato. Locals will tell you to head to Ristorante Pizzeria da Umberto for delicious pizza and pasta dishes with exceptional service in a no frills setting. Keep wandering until you reach the fairytale-like Aragonese Castle, the standout site of Ischia.

For breathtaking, burning sunsets, meanwhile, make the trip to Forio, on the west of the island. Picnic at one of the stunning beaches by day - Citara and Chiaia are particularly nice - before heading for sundowners and admiring the brilliant pinks and oranges in the sky as the sun sets.

Where to stay

The Pagoda Hotel , minutes from Ischia Porto, is a great mid-range option that makes a good base for exploring the island. With its own private rocky beach, pool, hot tubs and quality onsite restaurant, it definitely deserves more than its three-star rating. Rooms start at £140 per night. Visit the hotel's website for more info.

Create a FREE account to continue reading

Registration is a free and easy way to support our journalism.

Join our community where you can: comment on stories; sign up to newsletters; enter competitions and access content on our app.

Your email address

Must be at least 6 characters, include an upper and lower case character and a number

You must be at least 18 years old to create an account

* Required fields

Already have an account? SIGN IN

By clicking Create Account you confirm that your data has been entered correctly and you have read and agree to our Terms of use , Cookie policy and Privacy policy .

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.

Thank you for registering

Please refresh the page or navigate to another page on the site to be automatically logged in

• United Kingdom
• Curated Stays
• Wine Travel
• About Isabelle
• Work with Us

Ischia Travel Guide: 27+ Essential Things to Know in 2024

• Isabelle Hoyne
• February 15, 2024

** Disclosure: some of the links on this site are affiliate links and should you make a purchase through these, I may receive a small commission at no extra cost to you. Thank you for your support!**

Discover the secrets of visiting Ischia with our in-depth Ischia travel guide. Packed with over 27 essential tips as well as insider knowledge, this guide is full of insights to ensure your trip to this Italian island is as magical as the destination itself, whether its your first visit or a return trip. 

As the ferry cut through the cerulean embrace of the Tyrrhenian Sea, Ischia emerged from the waves, growing larger and larger as we made our approach. 

The island, bathed in the golden hue of afternoon sun, reared up from the port, its rugged cliffs and verdant hills of greenery a stark contrast to the endless blue that marooned it. 

The port of Ischia was an immediate symphony of noise – tourists clanking themselves and their luggage along the steel gangway as they disembarked from the ferry, taxi drivers with lilting voices battling to be heard over one another. 

This is how most arrivals to Ischia will pan out, but where to from here?

In this comprehensive Ischia travel guide , I’ve poured every ounce of my experience and discoveries exploring the island into crafting a resource that goes beyond the surface. This blog post is a trove of insights, designed to answer any question you may have about Ischia prior to your own visit.

I’ll delve into the island’s unique character, contrasting it with its more famous neighbours, offering practical tips for travellers, and highlighting the best experiences in dining, staying, and exploring.

Whether it’s understanding the best time to visit, navigating the local transport, or choosing the perfect spot for a rejuvenating retreat, this guide has it all. Join me as we explore the underrated beauty of Ischia, a haven that offers more than just another picturesque Italian island experience.

Here are 27 (and more!) essential things to know before visiting Ischia. 

Useful resources for your Ischia trip

Ferries :  Search ferry schedules and book tickets here Top rated Ischia experiences & tours ⭑ Ischia boat tour with lunch on board ⭑ 3-hour kayak tour of Ischia with environmental guide ⭑ Ischia guided trekking experience with local guide ⭑  Small-group market visit & cooking workshop Cultured Voyages recommended accommodation ➡  Villa Livia – boutique gem with incredible views (stayed here) ➡ Albergo Terme di San Lorenzo – old school hotel with thermal pools (stayed here) ➡ Tenuta del Poggia Antico – romantic, luxurious small hotel ➡ Mezzatorre – Ischia’s most iconic & luxurious 5* hotel Best experiences nearby for day trips ⭑  Guided tour of Pompeii (with Naples Port pick up) ⭑  Ultimate Naples Food Tour (with our favourite tour company) ⭑  From Naples or Sorrento: Amalfi Coast Full-Day Trip

Table of Contents

Introducing ischia, and what sets it apart, things to do on ischia, staying on ischia, dining on ischia, getting to and around ischia, ischia vs nearby destinations, practical tips for travellers, engaging with the island, common questions before visiting, ischia sits in the bay of naples, a gem in the tyrrhenian sea.

Ischia is the largest of the Phlegraean Islands and resides majestically in the Bay of Naples, cradled by the azure expanse of the Tyrrhenian Sea.

A volcanic island, it’s located a mere 30 kilometres from the mainland and unfolds over an area of approximately 46 square kilometres. It boasts a population of around 60,000, which means that it comes with a vibrant local life distinct from the tourist veneer.

From the bustling streets of Naples , one can gaze out to where Ischia, along with its neighbours Capri and Procida, forms a triumvirate of beauty, each shimmering seductively on the horizon. Ischia, however, distinguishes itself with its unique blend of lush greenery, thermal springs, and a rich historical tapestry.

This geographical gem, a fusion of natural splendour and cultural depth, offers a compelling invitation to those seeking both relaxation and exploration amidst the backdrop of the Italian maritime landscape.

Ischia is a product of volcanic activity

Born from the fiery depths of Earth’s geological turmoil, Ischia stands as a testament to the awe-inspiring power of volcanic activity.

This verdant island is a part of the Phlegraean Fields , a sprawling volcanic area extending into the Bay of Naples. Its origins are deeply rooted in the tumultuous movements of the Earth, which have sculpted its topography over millennia.

The resulting fertile soils have nurtured a landscape rich in lush vegetation and diverse flora, contributing significantly to the island’s agricultural bounty. Vineyards and gardens flourish here, their produce as vibrant and robust as the land itself.

Indeed, Ischia has earned itself the moniker ‘ Isola Verde ‘ – or ‘Green Island’ in English. 

The island’s volcanic legacy is not merely a historical footnote but a dynamic feature that continues to shape its identity.

Thermal springs and fumaroles dot the landscape, serving as natural spas that draw visitors from around the globe. This geological heritage adds a layer of intrigue to Ischia, enhancing its attractiveness as a unique destination that blends natural beauty and geological drama. 

Ischia is understated, and more than a mere neighbour to Capri

Ischia, often overshadowed by the glamour of its neighbour Capri, offers a more understated charm, appealing to those who seek authenticity over ostentation.

While Capri basks in its reputation as a playground for the elite, Ischia presents a tranquil alternative, a haven for serene landscapes and a laid-back lifestyle.

The island’s beauty is subtle yet profound – from its elegant architecture to its verdant landscapes that provide a peaceful retreat from the bustling outside world.

The charm of Ischia, I find, lies in its ability to offer authentic experiences, far removed from the crowded tourist traps. Here, one can wander through quaint streets, dine in family-run trattorias where recipes are passed down through generations, and soak in thermal springs surrounded by natural beauty.

For those who have already revelled in the allure of Capri, or for those who yearn for a destination devoid of a high-profile ‘scene’, Ischia emerges as the ideal choice.

Exploring all three of the islands in the Bay of Naples – Capri, Ischia, and Procida – is a journey through distinct worlds (and one that I recommend that you do, should you be blessed with the time to do so).

Explore Ischia’s Ancient Greek roots

Ischia’s ancient history, deeply entwined with Greek mythology, presents an intriguing tapestry of legends and archaeological wonders.

The Greeks, enchanted by its strategic location and natural resources, established a foothold in the 8th century BC. Remnants of this era still resonate at sites like the ancient acropolis of Monte Vico, where once Greek temples stood.

The Aragonese Castle, although of later construction, is built upon a rock that was originally a Greek fortification, offering a tangible connection to this bygone epoch.

Ischia’s Greek heritage is palpable in its architecture and artefacts housed in local museums, such as the Archaeological Museum of Pithecusae.

Here, one can marvel at ancient relics and pottery, painting a vivid picture of the Greek civilisation’s influence in the Mediterranean.

This historical journey through Ischia’s Greek past is not merely an exploration of sites; it’s an immersion into the stories and legends that shaped the island’s identity.

Indulge in Ischia’s cultural pursuits

Ischia has a vibrant cultural scene, and hosts a kaleidoscope of events throughout the year, including religious festivals steeped in tradition.

The Feast of Saint Anna , celebrated with a maritime procession and spectacular fireworks, is a vivid display of local faith and communal spirit. The Ischia Film Festiva l, another cultural highlight, transforms the island into a hub for cinephiles, celebrating cinematic art in the unique setting of the Aragonese Castle.

The island’s allure has not escaped the eyes of filmmakers and writers.

Scenes from the film ‘ The Talented Mr Ripley ‘ were shot here, capturing Ischia’s timeless beauty on celluloid. Moreover, Ischia serves as a backdrop in both the books and TV adaptations of Elena Ferrante’s ‘ My Brilliant Friend ‘, adding a layer of literary allure to its picturesque landscapes.

Experiencing these cultural events and recognising these familiar scenes offers a deeper appreciation of Ischia’s role in both historical and contemporary art narratives.

Relax at Ischia’s thermal parks and spas

Many make their way to Ischia to bask in its healing waters and have been doing so for centuries. 

It’s definitely one of Ischia’s more unique, and certainly one of its cornerstone things to experience while visiting the island. 

Making use of the island’s thermal properties, what I would deem as ‘super-spas’ have been created to harness the natural thermal waters, rich in minerals, to provide a soothing, therapeutic experience. 

These thermal parks are nestled in locations that offer a tranquil ambience, with vistas of Ischia’s lush landscapes and the tranquil sea. This harmonious blend of natural therapy and scenic beauty makes Ischia’s thermal spas uniquely invigorating.

In Ischia, options for thermal spa experiences abound.

The island boasts large thermal parks such as Negombo and Poseidon , offering a variety of pools with different temperatures and properties.

Typically, people go here for a half or full day, to enjoy the multiple therapy pools, as well as add-ons like massages, cosmetic and beauty treatments and more niche things like steam inhalations.

Additionally, many hotels on the island, like Albergo San Lorenzo where I stayed, feature their own private thermal facilities, providing a more intimate spa experience. I made a point of using its several pools for at least an hour a day, and by the end of my stay, all aches and pains I had were gone! 

Discover the beaches of Ischia

Ischia’s beaches, with their sandy shores and crystal-clear waters, offer an idyllic coastal experience.

Ischia is a true seaside destination, and the beaches in Ischia are well-equipped for a perfect beach holiday, with lidos providing ample amenities for comfort and leisure.

The island is dotted with renowned beaches, each with its own allure. Some of them include:

• Maronti Beach : Located on the southern side of the island, Maronti is Ischia’s largest beach, stretching over 3 kilometres. It’s renowned for its thermal springs and the fumaroles, hot vapours emanating from the sand. The beach is accessible by bus or via a picturesque boat ride from Sant’Angelo.
• San Montano Beach : Nestled in a serene bay near Lacco Ameno, this beach is known for its shallow, warm waters, making it ideal for families. The beach is part of the Negombo thermal park, which combines the beach experience with thermal pools.
• Citara Beach : Situated in Forio, Citara is famed for its wide expanse of golden sand and crystal-clear waters. It’s also home to the Poseidon Gardens, one of the island’s most famous thermal parks.
• Spiaggia dei Pescatori : Located in Ischia Porto, this beach is smaller but offers a quaint and tranquil setting, perfect for those looking to escape the crowds.
• Cartaromana Beach : Near Ischia Ponte, this beach offers stunning views of the Castello Aragonese. It’s known for its thermal springs and rocky seabed, ideal for snorkelling enthusiasts.
• Sant’Angelo Beach : This picturesque beach lies in the charming village of Sant’Angelo on the island’s south coast. It’s a small, sandy beach, known for its peaceful ambience and beautiful scenery.

Outdoor activities on Ischia

Ischia’s diverse landscape offers a plethora of outdoor activities. The island’s terrain is a haven for outdoor enthusiasts.

Hiking to the summit of Monte Epomeo, the highest point on Ischia, is a popular pursuit, offering panoramic views that are simply unforgettable. The hike weaves through diverse landscapes, including vineyards and agriturismi, showcasing Ischia’s agricultural heritage.

I recently enjoyed a walk from Lacco Ameno to Forio through the verdant Zaro Woods . The journey was a delightful mix of nature and tranquillity and included a stop off at the serene shrine of Madonna di Zaro in the heart of the woods. As the woodland trail ended, the breathtaking coastline emerged, a rewarding sight for any hiker.

Boating around the island presents a different perspective of its stunning geography, revealing secluded coves and hidden grottoes accessible only from the sea. This is an ideal way to appreciate the island’s rugged coastline and its many natural wonders.

Snorkelling and other water-based activities in Ischia are a delight for marine enthusiasts.

The clear waters around the island are teeming with vibrant marine life, offering an up-close experience of the Mediterranean’s underwater biodiversity.

The island’s beaches and coves also provide perfect spots for more relaxed water activities like paddleboarding or kayaking , allowing visitors to glide over the gentle waves while soaking in the sun and scenic views.

BOOK AN EXPERIENCE | If you’d like to go hiking, consider this guided trekking experience for your first outing. If you’d like to hit the water, go kayaking , or go on a boat tour of the island . 

Get to know Ischia via its cuisine

Exploring Ischia’s culinary landscape is a journey into the heart of its traditions.

Gastronomic adventures can include wine tasting at local vineyards, where the island’s volcanic soil imparts a unique character to the wines.

Myself and my partner Andy trekked up to a beautifully situated agriturismo called La Torre di Mezzo high up on the east side of the island, which boasted views of the sea and the island of Capri. There, we drank wine and ate delicious home-prepared dishes, with every item we consumed having been produced onsite.

Cooking classes can provide insights into traditional Ischian cuisine, revealing the secrets behind the island’s famous dishes. This five-hour, small-group cooking workshop includes a visit to a local market before you learn how to make some classic dishes. 

Dining in Ischia is an experience in itself, with restaurants serving fresh, locally-sourced seafood and classic Italian specialties. The flavours are a testament to the island’s rich culinary heritage and the abundance of its natural resources.

Engaging in these culinary pursuits is not just about savouring delicious food and wine; it’s an immersive way to understand Ischia’s culture and traditions, making the dining experience both enlightening and delightful.

Must-visit attractions on Ischia

If you are wondering what Ischia’s must-visit attractions are, I would say that Castello d’Aragonese and Giardini La Mortella epitomise the island’s rich history and lush beauty. In terms of the most quintessential Ischitan experiences, then a visit to a t hermal park or the intriguing fumaroles is essential for those captivated by Ischia’s unique geothermal wonders.

An overview of Ischian Towns

Ischia has a number of towns and villages and each offers something different to those who stay there. I’ve covered this in more detail in my related guide about where to stay in Ischia , however below is a brief overview of each of the main places to consider staying. 

RELATED READING | Where to Stay in Ischia: 7 Best Towns + Curated Hotel Picks [2024]

Ischia Porto & Ischia Ponte

Ischia Porto pulsates with vibrant energy, its bustling streets lined with a plethora of shops and cafes. In contrast, Ischia Ponte, with its historical allure, is home to the iconic Castello Aragonese. This area beautifully juxtaposes the lively port atmosphere with the serene, ancient charm of the castle and its surrounding structures. 

I stayed at Ischia Ponte on my first visit to the island, and it really set the tone so well. While the port is a little handier for public transport around the island, the little village around the bridge and Castello Aragonese is a rather special one. 

Serrara Fontana

Serrara Fontana, nestled high in the hills, offers breathtaking panoramic views. This town, a mosaic of quaint streets and traditional architecture, exudes a peaceful charm. It’s a retreat away from the more tourist-centric areas, inviting a slower pace of life amidst its scenic beauty. It may be too remote for some. 

Barano, known for its rustic character, is a haven for those seeking an authentic Ischian experience. Its terraced vineyards and Maronti Beach, the island’s longest stretch of sand, are highlights. The town’s natural thermal springs add to its allure.

Sant’Angelo

Sant’Angelo, with its picturesque marina and pedestrian-only streets, is a postcard of tranquillity. This charming fishing village is famed for its stylish boutiques and cafes, offering a sophisticated yet relaxed atmosphere. The thermal spas nearby enhance its reputation as a wellness destination. It’s a little on the pricier end. 

Forio, renowned for its stunning sunsets and historical churches, blends artistic heritage with natural beauty. The town’s vibrant streets, lined with artisan shops and enotecas, lead to beautiful beaches like Citara and Cava dell’Isola, making it a diverse and dynamic destination.

It’s a great base for exploring Ischia, and I’d consider staying here if you love beaches too. 

Lacco Ameno

Lacco Ameno, with its iconic mushroom-shaped rock, exudes elegance. This town, home to luxury hotels and thermal spas, offers a blend of upscale amenities and historical sites, such as the archaeological museum Villa Arbusto, making it a blend of luxury and culture.

I stayed here on my last visit to Ischia and enjoyed it, having earmarked the town as a place I had wanted to stay in on my prior visit to Ischia. I’d suggest Lacco Ameno for older visitors, or those honeymooning. It’s definitely a more ‘exclusive’ little enclave. 

Casamicciola Terme

Casamicciola, famous for its therapeutic thermal waters, is a hub of wellness and relaxation. The town’s charming harbour and quaint piazzas add to its appeal, offering a perfect balance of health-focused attractions and scenic coastal beauty.

It’s a good choice if you want to use the ferry to travel to nearby destinations, as well as for those who are on a budget. 

Accommodation options on Ischia

Ischia’s accommodation spectrum ranges from opulent resorts to charming B&Bs, catering to a variety of tastes and preferences.

My personal experience at this boutique guesthouse in Ischia Ponte remains unforgettable. Perched above the town, it offered a magnificent view of the Castello d’Aragonese. With its architecturally designed structure, a stunning swimming pool, and meticulously tended gardens, it was a haven of tranquillity and elegance.

During another stay, I experienced the old-school charm of the Albergo San Lorenzo in Lacco Ameno. This thermal spa hotel, though not seaside, compensated with numerous pools and ample outdoor spaces, encapsulating the quintessential Italian seaside hotel aura.

For those seeking luxury, Ischia does not disappoint. Mezzatore , nestled on a private bay, offers an exclusive retreat, while the Regina Isabella and San Montano, with their exquisite services and amenities, epitomise luxury.

Ischia also caters to families or those preferring longer stays, with a plethora of self-catering options that offer both comfort and convenience.

Additionally, the island boasts a fine selection of guesthouses, each with its unique charm, ensuring that every visitor finds a perfect fit to experience the best of Ischia.

The Ischia experience is laidback and beach-y 

Ischia, with its serene environment and gentle rhythms, stands in stark contrast to the frenetic pace of popular tourist hotspots.

Here, the essence of la dolce vita is not just a phrase but a tangible experience. The island’s tranquil atmosphere envelops visitors, encouraging them to embrace a slower, more relaxed pace of life.

The island’s beach-y vibe is evident in its sandy shores and azure waters, inviting leisurely days spent basking under the Mediterranean sun.

This laid-back ethos extends beyond the beaches, permeating the quaint towns and sleepy villages. In Ischia, time seems to slow down, allowing visitors to appreciate the simple pleasures – a leisurely stroll along the marina, a quiet afternoon in a sun-dappled garden, or a relaxed meal in an outdoor trattoria.

This relaxed tempo of Ischia provides a welcome respite from the hustle of everyday life, offering a peaceful retreat where one can unwind and recharge, surrounded by natural beauty and a sense of calm.

Visiting Ischia with children/multi-generational groups

Ischia warmly welcomes families and multi-generational groups, epitomising the Italian ethos of family-centric hospitality.

The island, a favoured retreat for Italians seeking respite from the summer heat, is perfectly suited for visitors of all ages. Its family-friendly beaches, with gentle slopes and clear, shallow waters, provide a safe and enjoyable environment for children to play and swim.

The island’s attractions cater to a diverse range of interests, ensuring that every family member, from the youngest to the oldest, finds something captivating.

The thermal parks, with their various pools and lush gardens, offer relaxation for adults and fun for children. Traditional festivals and cultural events provide a glimpse into local customs and traditions, offering an enriching experience for all.

Ischia’s restaurants and accommodations are accustomed to hosting families, often providing special amenities to cater to their needs.

The welcoming attitude of the locals further enhances the family-friendly atmosphere, making Ischia an ideal destination for a relaxing and enjoyable multi-generational holiday.

Ischia’s cuisine

Ischia’s culinary landscape, steeped in history and geography, offers a feast for the senses.

Memorable meals at Da Ciccio and Ristorante Bar da Coco , with their fresh fish and local pasta, embody the island’s rich gastronomic heritage.

The traditional dish, coniglio all’ischitana – rabbit cooked in a unique local style with white wine, garlic, cherry tomatoes, and chili pepper – is Ischia’s must-try local dish, reflecting the island’s agrarian past and its continued reliance on locally sourced ingredients.

The simplicity and richness of Ischia’s cuisine, developed from a history of modest means, are evident in dishes like pesce all’acqua pazza, a humble yet delicious preparation of fish.

The island’s cuisine, using ingredients borne from its fertile volcanic soil, is a testament to the resourcefulness and culinary skill of its people. This “autarchic” approach to cooking, focusing on fresh and local produce, ensures a dining experience that is both authentic and deeply rooted in the island’s traditions.

Pizza on Ischia

The quality of pizza on Ischia is exceptional, mirroring the renowned Neapolitan style just a stone’s throw away on the mainland.

My own recent dining experiences at Ristorante Pizzeria ‘Il Giardino ’ in Ischia Ponte and Taverna Pithecusa in Lacco Ameno were exemplary, showcasing the skill of local pizzaioli. The pizzas, with their perfect crusts and delicious toppings, cooked in traditional wood-fired ovens, are a culinary delight.

At Taverna Pithecusa, the intimate setting with red and white checked tablecloths added to the authentic atmosphere. These pizzerias not only offer excellent pizzas but also serve a variety of pasta dishes, making them perfect for a comprehensive taste of Italian cuisine.

Other top places to get some pizza from in Ischia include Don Enzo in Barano (a legendary pizza spot), Bella Napoli in Forio, Ristorante Pizzeria Fratelli La Bufala in Ischia Porto

The pizza experience in Ischia, combining exquisite taste with the island’s laid-back ambience, should not to be skipped while you are there.

Wine production on Ischia

Ischia’s winemaking heritage, steeped in a history dating back to 700 BC when the island was known as Enaria, meaning “Land of Wines,” is a journey through time and taste.

The vineyards of Ischia, a delightful secret of the island, are landscapes painted with rows of vines, contributing not only to its picturesque beauty but also to the production of exceptional wines.

The island’s rich volcanic soil and native grape varieties, such as the white Biancolella and the red Piedirosso, play a crucial role in creating wines with unique taste profiles.

Tommasone, Cenatiempo, and Casa D’Ambra are among the island’s most esteemed producers, each bringing over centuries of history and expertise to their craft.

Tommasone , renowned for its 250-year history, Cenatiempo , known for its minimal intervention approach, and Casa D’Ambra near Forio, offer notable tasting experiences that showcase the essence of Ischia’s winemaking tradition.

The wines of Ischia, particularly the floral Biancolella and the crisp Forastera, are predominantly white, characterised by fresh, aromatic profiles with balanced acidity, mirroring the island’s Mediterranean climate.

This exclusivity of Ischia’s wines, savoured mostly locally with only a rare bottle reaching international shores, adds to the allure of tasting these exquisite creations amidst the stunning backdrop of the island.

For those passionate about discovering a destination through its wine , Ischia presents a captivating and unique oenological experience, making it a must-visit for connoisseurs and enthusiasts alike.

You’ll see local wine served at restaurants, but as mentioned earlier in this post, you can also visit some of the wineries for further discovery and tastings. 

Getting to Ischia

Getting to Ischia by ferry is a scenic and essential part of the journey to the island. From Naples or Pozzuoli, regular ferry services operate with varying durations:

• From Naples : The journey takes about 50 minutes to 1 hour and 5 minutes with services going frequently throughout the day, starting in the early morning. Prices range from around €12 for the slow ferry (which takes 1.5 hours), to €20-23 for the fast ferry (50-60 minutes) each way.  
• From Pozzuoli : The trip is approximately 1 hour and 20 minutes, with frequent ferries running. Tickets cost around €12​​.

I use Ferry Hopper to check the latest schedules and book my ferry tickets in Italy. It’s a convenient tool that provides up-to-date information on ferry timings, routes, and ticket prices. You can easily compare options and choose the one that best suits your travel plans. 

Some carriers accept the e-ticket that’s generated on the Ferry Hopper website and/or app. Some, however, you will need to show your e-ticket and pick up a physical ticket at the office in the port for. 

For a more detailed guide on how to get to Ischia, including tips on choosing the right ferry service and making the most of your journey, check out my comprehensive post on this topic (coming soon) . It’s packed with all the information you need to plan a smooth and enjoyable trip to this beautiful island.

Enter your departure and destination points, and dates into the search box to discover ferry schedules and ticket prices.

Alternative ways of reaching Ischia

Aside from the regular ferry and hydrofoil services, Ischia can be approached via private boat charter or helicopter for a more exclusive experience. These options, while pricier, provide a unique and luxurious entry to the island, perfect for those seeking privacy or celebrating a special occasion.

Getting around Ischia

Getting around ischia by car.

Renting a car on Ischia is not necessary, but it does offer unparalleled freedom to explore the island. You may find it particularly useful for reaching more secluded spots or if you’re visiting with children. Cars can be rented upon arrival; however, during the busy summer months, booking in advance is a good idea.

Bringing a car from the mainland via ferry is another option you can consider. It’s a practical choice if you’re planning to explore the surrounding areas before or after your stay in Ischia.

Just remember that car ferries can get quite busy in peak season, so booking your ferry ticket well in advance is essential.

Parking in Ischia can also be tricky in busy summer months; so do factor that into your decision.

Hiring a moped 

Given the narrow nature of many of Ischia’s roads, and the relatively short distances you’ll likely need to travel, hiring a moped is also an option. 

I’d only recommend doing this if you have experience in driving a moped, however – Ischia’s winding roads and steep hills may prove a challenge for beginner moped drivers. 

Getting around Ischia by local bus

Getting around Ischia by local bus is both convenient and economical. The bus network, operated by the EAV company, extensively covers the island, making it easy to travel between towns and beaches without a car.

To be honest, the local bus with a taxi here and there is likely to be sufficient for more visitors to Ischia in terms of getting around.

The key bus routes are the CS (Circolare Sinistra) and CD (Circolare Destra), which circle the island clockwise and counterclockwise, respectively. These routes are particularly useful for getting a comprehensive tour of the island.

The main bus terminal is located in Ischia Porto, just a short walk from the ferry arrival pier. Here, you can purchase tickets and get all the information you need for your journeys.

Tickets are also available at various locations across the island, including newsstands and cigarette shops. Many hotels also offer bus tickets for sale.

If you haven’t bought your ticket in advance, you can purchase one on board the bus for a slightly higher fee.

Bus ticket prices are quite reasonable:

• Single ride: €1.50
• On board purchase: €2.00
• 100-minute ticket: €1.80
• Daily pass: €4.50
• Weekly pass: €15.50
• Monthly pass: €33.60

Local taxis in Ischia

For convenience, especially when travelling with luggage or in a group, I often rely on local taxis. They’re readily available at the port, in town centres, and can be booked by phone. Taxis in Ischia offer a comfortable and hassle-free way to move around, albeit at a higher cost compared to other transport options.

Getting around on foot on Ischia

Exploring Ischia on foot is a real treat, especially in quaint towns and along the stunning coastal paths. These walks allow you to truly absorb the island’s beauty and charm at your own pace.

However, when it comes to travelling between towns, I’d advise against relying solely on foot. The distances can be significant, and the lack of proper footpaths makes such treks impractical. For these longer distances, I usually opt for the local buses, which are efficient and cover most parts of the island.

In the towns themselves, and walking in between places Ischia Porto and Ischia Ponte, though, then travelling on foot is perfect for immersing yourself in the local vibe and discovering those little hidden spots that you might miss otherwise.

Ischia vs Capri

Comparing Ischia with Capri offers a study in contrasts.

While Capri caters to a more upscale crowd with its luxury hotels and designer boutiques, Ischia exudes a more authentic charm. For me, Ischia holds a special place; its authenticity and less-touristy ambience lend it a unique appeal.

Capri, with its undeniable elegance, is ideal for those with a larger budget or celebrating special occasions like honeymoons, or for those seeking a bit of a ‘scene’.

It offers opulent experiences, but in my view, Ischia’s unpretentious charm and richer, more genuine experiences make it a more rewarding destination for those seeking a slower travel experience.

For a deeper dive into these differences, my post on Ischia vs Capri provides an extensive comparison, capturing the essence of what makes each island unique.

RELATED READING | Capri or Ischia: Which Island Paradise Should You Choose?

Ischia vs Procida

Ischia and Procida, though geographically close, offer distinct experiences.

Procida enchants with its colourful houses and a laid-back atmosphere, perfect for leisurely afternoons and a slower pace of life. Ischia, on the other hand, provides a broader range of activities, from beach clubs to hiking trails.

Both islands have their unique allure, and I recommend visiting the other if you’re planning on staying on one of these islands. The proximity makes it easy to hop between the two, and together, they offer a comprehensive experience of the region’s beauty.

Note, however, that it makes most sense to visit Procida as a day trip from Ischia rather than the other way around, as there is much more to do and see. 

Ischia, with its larger size, offers more in terms of variety, but Procida’s quaint charm is undeniably appealing. Do note, however, that I’m really glad I choose to spend a few days on Procida rather than visit for a day trip; you really do settle into that slow island lifestyle! 

So if you have, let’s say, a week to spend in the area, definitely try to overnight on Procida. 

Ischia vs the Amalfi Coast 

When it comes to the Amalfi Coast , the experience differs markedly from Ischia.

The Amalfi Coast, known for its dramatic coastal scenery and picturesque towns, can sometimes feel overcrowded, especially in places like Positano or Sorrento.

For those seeking authenticity on the Amalfi Coast, I recommend staying in less commercialised towns like Maiori or Minori and exploring the region through day trips. Ravello is lovely if you want a town with an exclusive feel, and don’t mind it being a bit busier during the day. 

In contrast, Ischia offers a different kind of experience.

As an island, it presents a more secluded and tranquil getaway, despite its proximity to the bustling coast. The island’s unique blend of natural beauty, thermal spas, and rich history sets it apart, making it an ideal choice for those looking for a varied and less tourist-heavy Mediterranean experience.

Taking day trips from Ischia

Taking day trips from Ischia is not only feasible but also an enriching way to explore the surrounding regions.

Given Ischia’s strategic location in the Bay of Naples, several destinations are within easy reach by ferry. However, it’s crucial to consider ferry schedules and travel times, which can vary depending on the time of year, and might affect whether or not you’ll actually have enough to time travel to and from somewhere. 

A popular day trip destination is the neighbouring island of Capri , about an hour away by ferry. During peak season, ferries run frequently, but I recommend checking the first and last ferry times to maximise your day.

Naples , a treasure trove of history and culture, is approximately 1 hour away by ferry (make sure to take a fast ferry), with departures starting early in the morning and continuing until late evening. This allows for a full day of exploration in the city. 

The Amalfi Coast

The Amalfi Coast, while slightly more challenging to reach, is still possible for a day trip, although you won’t get to see a whole lot.

Ferries seem to be scheduled to cater more for a day trip to Ischia from Sorrento than the other way round. With that in mind, if you wanted to visit the Amalfi Coast from Ischia, I actually think you’re better off overnighting somewhere on the mainland.

You could also get an early morning ferry from Ischia to Naples, join an Amalfi Coast day tour from Naples , and then get a late ferry back at the end of the day. You would need to be very organised, however.

Pompeii and Herculaneum

Pompeii and Herculaneum, at a stretch, are also accessible via a ferry to Naples followed by a train journey. I’d recommend only visiting one of these as part of a day trip from Ischia, however. The entire journey can take around 2 to 3 hours one way, depending on train times, with around half a day to then explore the ruins, so planning is key.

You could also hire a driver from the port to get you to Pompeii/Herculaneum expediently. It would take around half an hour. Do note, however, that taxi prices increase considerably once you leave the city limits and it will likely cost around €60 each way. Make sure to confirm the price with the driver before setting off. 

Another option would be to join this guided tour of Pompeii from Naples, which includes pick up from the port. 

Best time of year to visit Ischia

The best time of year to visit Ischia will depend on what you are looking for, as the island offers varied experiences throughout the year.

The summer months, particularly August, see the island at its liveliest, brimming with both local and foreign tourists. This period, known as ‘Ferragosto’, is when the island pulsates with energy, but also when it’s most crowded.

For those seeking a quieter experience, I recommend visiting in the late spring or early autumn. During these times, the weather remains warm and pleasant, and the tourist crowds are significantly thinner.

The off-season in Ischia, while quieter, has its charm.

The island takes on a sleepy, tranquil atmosphere, ideal for those looking for a peaceful retreat. However, be aware that some restaurants and tourist facilities may be closed during this time.

My personal recommendation would be to visit in May/June or September, when the weather is delightful, and the island retains its vibrant character without the peak season crowds.

Ischia caters to local and foreign tourists

Ischia is well-equipped to cater to both local and foreign tourists.

The mix of visitors is especially apparent in August, when Italian tourists, particularly Neapolitans who own holiday homes on the island, arrive in large numbers. Outside of this peak period, the island offers a more balanced mix of Italian and international visitors.

The island’s facilities are geared towards a range of needs, including those staying for extended periods or in self-catering accommodations.

From medical services to shopping options, Ischia provides all the essentials and more. Many locals in the service industry are accustomed to dealing with tourists, ensuring a comfortable stay.

My observation is that the island, while tourist-friendly, retains a genuine Italian charm, offering an authentic experience.

Language and communication

In Ischia, as in much of Italy, the primary language is Italian although don’t be surprised if you do hear a language that you can’t quite place – it could very well be local dialect .

However, in tourist areas and among those working in tourism, English is widely spoken. I’ve always found it polite to first ask if they speak English, and more often than not, the response is a modest affirmation. The locals’ proficiency in English is usually quite good, despite their humble claims.

For interactions outside the tourist sphere, don’t expect widespread English fluency. It’s Italy, after all!

It’s wise to learn a few basic Italian phrases or have Google Translate ready for offline use. This not only helps in communication but also shows respect for the local culture and people who live there. In my experience, even basic Italian efforts are appreciated and often met with warm, helpful responses.

Nightlife and entertainment in Ischia

Ischia’s nightlife, while not as bustling as some of its more famous neighbours, offers its own unique charm.

The evenings here are more about laid-back enjoyment rather than high-energy partying. I myself have spent delightful evenings in quaint wine bars and seaside cafes, where the ambience is relaxed and the focus is on enjoying good company.

In places like Forio and Ischia Porto, you’ll find a more vibrant scene, with bars and clubs that stay open late, but the overall atmosphere remains congenial and inviting in the various towns around the island.

My recommendation for an enjoyable night out in Ischia would be to visit a local enoteca or bar, where you can sample regional wines.

For those seeking a bit more activity, the summer months bring open-air concerts and cultural events, often held in historical settings like the Aragonese Castle, adding a touch of magic to the island’s nightlife.

Supporting sustainable tourism 

Ischia, often referred to as the ‘ Isola Verde ‘ or Green Island, has made significant strides in sustainable tourism, a crucial effort to preserve its natural beauty and ecological balance.

The ‘ Ischia is More ‘ initiative, a collaboration of entrepreneurs from diverse sectors, exemplifies this commitment.

This initiative aims to synergise activities and communication to promote Ischia as a green destination for quality, sustainable, year-round tourism. It focuses on showcasing local stories and the Ischitano lifestyle, including wellness, culture, gastronomy, and history.

The island has developed an enviable model for territory protection, evident in projects like ‘ Ischia a Green Island ‘, which promotes the use of electric cars for zero-emission transport, and the 2019 initiative to ban single-use plastics, cementing Ischia’s status as a plastic-free zone.

Moreover, the Green Yep project encourages sustainable agriculture practices and trains new professionals in eco-management and sustainable tourism.

As tourists, we can support these sustainable efforts by choosing eco-friendly travel options, participating in local green initiatives, and being mindful of our environmental impact.

Support local businesses where you can, get out and about and explore places like walking trails and off the beaten path agriturismos and strongly consider travelling in the shoulder or off-season. 

What is the shopping experience like on Ischia?

Shopping in Ischia offers a delightful blend of traditional Italian charm and modern convenience. The island is dotted with a variety of shops, ranging from quaint local boutiques to more contemporary stores.

In Ischia, you will find everything from handcrafted souvenirs, artisanal ceramics, and bespoke jewellery to stylish Italian fashion and local produce. You won’t, however, find designer stores like you do on Capri. That’s not to say you won’t pick up some stylish clothes in Ischia, however. 

The main shopping areas are located in Ischia Porto and Forio, where the streets are lined with shops catering to all tastes and budgets.

Additionally, Ischia is known for its thermal spa products, making it an ideal place to purchase natural cosmetics and wellness items. I’ve brought back face creams made on Ischia that were excellent! 

Is Ischia a crowded tourist destination?

Ischia experiences varying levels of tourist crowds depending on the season. The peak tourist season is in the summer months, particularly August, when the island becomes quite busy with both local and international visitors. During this time, known as ‘Ferragosto’, popular areas and beaches can be crowded.

However, outside of the peak season, Ischia is much less crowded, offering a more tranquil experience. The shoulder seasons of late spring and early autumn are particularly pleasant times to visit, as the weather is still warm and the tourist crowds are significantly smaller.

What should I pack for a trip to Ischia?

When packing for Ischia, consider the season and activities you plan to engage in. Essentials include:

• Light, comfortable clothing for the warm climate.
• A swimsuit, sunscreen, and a hat for beach days.
• Comfortable walking shoes for exploring the towns and nature trails.
• A light jacket or sweater for cooler evenings.
• Elegant attire if you plan to dine in upscale restaurants or visit exclusive resorts.
• An adapter and charger for electronic devices, if coming from outside Italy .

Remember, Ischia is a laid-back destination, so a relaxed and casual wardrobe is perfectly acceptable.

Do remember, however, that the Italians are perennially stylish and that ‘casual’ in Italy may be dressier than what is considered casual to you – you won’t see them slopping around the beach in any old pair of flip-flops.

Think stylish kaftans, statement sunglasses and thonged leather sandals and you’ll be a little closer to the mark. 

Related reading for Ischia

• Is Ischia worth visiting | Is Ischia worth visiting? 17 Pros + 4 Challenges To Help You Decide
• Things to do in Ischia | coming soon
• Ischia travel guide | Ischia Travel Guide: 27+ Essential Things to Know in 2024
• How to get to Ischia | coming soon
• Where to stay in Ischia | Where to Stay in Ischia: 7 Best Towns + Curated Hotel Picks [2024]

Like this post? Please share or save for later…

Related Topics

Hi there! I'm Isabelle, aficionado of immersive travel experiences and unique, luxurious hotels. You'll most likely find me camera in hand, or nerding out on research in advance of my next trip. A major foodie, history and scenery lover, nothing makes me happier than soaking in the atmosphere and culture of the destination I'm visiting.

You May Also Like

17 things to do in florence: a curated guide to the renaissance city.

• August 22, 2024

3 Days in Florence: Itinerary, Map + Insider Tips

• July 24, 2024

Florence Travel Guide: 28 Unmissable Tips for the First-Time Visitor

Input your search keywords and press Enter.

A Guide to Ischia, Italy — The Best of Ischia Island

Adventurous Kate contains affiliate links. If you make a purchase through these links, I will earn a commission at no extra cost to you. Thanks!

Imagine an island that represents the best of Italy — spectacular views, beautiful beaches, fantastic food, zero pretension whatsoever. Welcome to Ischia, Italy. This island in Campania, southern Italy, delivers on every level.

As an Italy travel expert, Ischia (EES-kee-ah) has been a place I’ve wanted to visit forever — and I finally got my chance when my husband Charlie and I decided to go for a four-day “mini-moon” after our Prague wedding, before our big honeymoon to South America later in the year.

And Ischia island could not have been more perfect! It was easy to get to — just a short ferry ride over from well-connected Naples . It was full of places to explore, from small villages to an actual castle to geothermal spas hiking trails up mountains. It was filled with tons of good food, including excellent Neapolitan pizza, fabulously fresh seafood, and agriturismi dishing up plate after plate of appetizers and stewed rabbit.

Planning your trip to Ischia last minute?

Ischia tends to book up quickly. Book ahead to avoid disappointment!

💃🏻 Top Experiences and Tours in Ischia:

• Take a boat trip around the island (My #1 recommendation!)
• Visit Castello Aragonese (The most well-known attraction)
• Explore the island by bus (Easiest way to see the whole island)

🛌  Top-Rated Hotels in Ischia:

• Miramare e Castello (Million-dollar view of Castello Aragonese)
• Parco Aurora Terme (Gorgeous sea views!)
• Hotel del Postiglione (Simple family-run hotel)

The easiest way to get to Ischia is via ferry from Naples. Click here to check prices and availability.

Looking back, I’m still blown away at just how much Ischia has to offer. Of all the islands in Italy that I’ve visited (around 15 or so by now), Ischia is probably in my top two, along with Salina in the Aeolian Islands .

At the same time, what I most appreciate about Ischia is that its visitors are primarily Italians (and, specifically, Neapolitans). This island doesn’t cater to the yacht crowd with luxury boutiques, or whistle-stop tourists with cheap souvenirs. Instead, Ischia is filled with really nice mid-range clothing shops and fabulous restaurants — because Italians love to look good and eat well!

If you’ve read Elena Ferrante’s Neapolitan Novels ( My Brilliant Friend , anyone?), you might recall that while most of the book takes place in rough neighborhoods in Naples, some pivotal scenes take place on the island of Ischia. If you’re as big of a fan of her writing as I am, you need to come here.

Ischia is a truly special place, one of my favorite places I’ve visited recently, and I’m excited to share it with all of you.

This post was published in October 2023.

Table of Contents

Things To Do in Ischia, Italy

Ischia can be an island for lying on the beach and eating gelato — if that’s what you want to do. But that would almost be a waste, because Ischia is so much more than that.

I recommend that you prioritize taking a boat trip around the island, exploring Castello Aragonese, spending a day at a thermal spa like Negombo, hiking Mount Epomeo (if you’re the hiking type), and getting around the island on the public bus system.

Here are some of my favorite things to do in Ischia Italy.

Take A Boat Tour Around The Island

Ischia is best viewed from the water! Taking a boat trip here is an absolute must, and one of my personal favorite things to do in Ischia. You’ll get to admire Ischia’s volcanic geography from every angle and do some swimming and snorkeling.

If you’d like to do an organized tour, this boat tour around the island includes stops at gems like Maronti Beach, the pretty little town of Sant’Angelo, the Grotta Verde (green cave, which you can swim into and stand inside), and Baia di Sorgeto.

Want something more special? Charlie and I wanted to book a private tour — it was our mini-moon, after all — so we booked a full day tour with West Coast in Ischia. West Coast offers private boat trips at very reasonable prices — we paid 330 EUR ($350 USD) for a boat that could fit up to four passengers, along with a skipper (the wonderful Vito). And there was copious sparkling wine on board, too.

My favorite place we visited with West Coast was a secret geothermal spot along the coast, where the hot land and cold water combined to make a natural hot tub in the ocean!

So if you’re up for a group experience, check out the boat tour , which includes lunch, some drinks, and snorkeling gear for a reasonable price, or book a private trip with West Coast for a more tailored experience. 

Visit The Castello Aragonese

If you’ve seen any one picture of Ischia, it was likely of the Castello Aragonese — a stone castle built on an enormous rock, connected to the mainland by a stone bridge. And if you think the photos of the castle are amazing from below, just wait until you get to the top!

The castle was built by Alfonso V of Aragon in the 15th century, but its history dates back to ancient times, when it was used as a refuge by the Greeks, Romans, Normans, and Angevins. It’s an absolute must-do for anyone who loves history, culture, and views of perfect Italian islands.

The castle is open to tourists who can explore its various levels, from the dungeons and prisons to the gardens and churches. From the castle’s terraces, you can also enjoy stunning views of the Bay of Naples and the Tyrrhenian Sea. The castle also hosts a small museum that displays archaeological finds, paintings, and sculptures from different periods of Ischia’s history.

The entrance fee is 10 EUR ($11 USD) per person. Alternatively, you can book a two-hour guided tour of the castle , which will give you excellent historical context. To get to the castle, you can take a bus to the Ischia Ponte neighborhood; we enjoyed a pleasant 25-minute walk from Ischia Porto.

Enjoy Ischia’s Beautiful Beaches

Ischia, Italy, the volcanic paradise in the Gulf of Naples, boasts some wonderful and beautiful beaches, perfect for getting away from it all. Ischia has a variety of beaches to offer, whether you crave sandy shores or rocky coves, secluded spots, or fun beach clubs.

Spiaggia di Cava Grada is charming gem with clear waters and soft sandy beaches, offering stunning views of the picturesque small town of Sant’Angelo.

Le Fumarole Beach is the place to go to experience the thrill of volcanic activity beneath your feet as steam and gas vents create a unique beach adventure.

Spiaggia di San Montano is a crescent-shaped beach with calm waters and fine sand, surrounded by lush hills. It’s part of Negombo Thermal Park , one of my favorite spots on the island, which I’ll get into further below.

Spiaggia dei Pescatori is a lively, long stretch in Ischia Porto, teeming with amenities and shallow waters — a very popular choice for families, and home to dozens of beachfront hotels.

Tour Ischia by Bus

Ischia is worth exploring from top to bottom — and one of the easiest ways to do so is to hop on a charming bus tour that covers the island’s top attractions. A local guide will share tales of Ischia’s exciting history, colorful culture, and natural beauty.

The bus tour takes you on a striking journey, stopping at magnificent spots like Sant’Angelo, Forio, Lacco Ameno, Casamicciola Terme, and Barano. You’ll have ample free time to wander, snap photos, or pick up souvenirs. The tour includes pick-up and drop-off service from your hotel or port, which is especially nice.

Touring Ischia by bus is a fantastic way to uncover the island’s highlights and diverse landscapes without the hassle of driving in Italy . The budget-friendly price is 15 EUR ($17 USD) per person, and you can choose between morning or afternoon departures. The tour is offered in several languages besides English and Italian.

Go Kayaking

Want to get out on the water? Head out in a kayak! Kayaking on Ischia as one of the top things to do on the island. Explore the island’s coastline at your own pace, finding hidden caves, natural pools, and marine wonders.

This three-hour tour takes in much of Ischia’s southern coast, passing the Maronti Beach and Sant’Angelo. You’ll discover stunning spots like Sgarrupata Bay, San Pancrazio Bay, and the enchanting Grotta Verde. And you’re more than welcome to hop in for a dip!

This kayaking tour accommodates all skill levels and runs from April to October. Equipment and guide are included.

Learn To Make the Local Cuisine of Ischia Island

You might not be surprised to learn that Ischia has great food, but you’ll probably be surprised by just how diverse the food offerings are on this island. Influenced by its volcanic soil, maritime tradition, and multicultural history, Ischia has more local specialties than you could try in a single trip.

From coniglio all’ischiatana (Ischia-style stewed rabbit) to spaghetti alle vongole (spaghetti with clams) and a wide variety of local wines, you will eat VERY well here.

What’s even better than eating in Ischia? Learning how to make some local dishes yourself. (Bring the recipes home and your friends and family will love you forever.)

First up: learn the best way of crafting a true Neapolitan pizza from scratch using a traditional wood oven and the freshest ingredients in this pizza-making class with a local chef . You’ll also learn how to make focaccia and calzone.

Another option is a market adventure guided by a local , exploring the best products and flavors of Ischia. Bargain with vendors and select gorgeous pieces of produce (never forget that the fancy tomatoes at Whole Foods in the US are actually Italy’s rejects). Afterward, head to a local home, where you’ll prepare a four-course meal with your host’s guidance.

This local home dining experience is a great way to experience an intimate, authentic dinner at a local’s home in Ischia. Be warmly welcomed and indulge in a three-course meal brimming with seasonal ingredients, accompanied by wine.

You can also dine with Lucia , a local chef and food lover from Ischia. She invites you to her home and garden, where she will teach you how to cook some of her favorite Ischitan recipes using fresh and local ingredients. Some of the dishes you can learn to make are spaghetti with clams, rabbit with herbs, eggplant parmigiana, and lemon cake.

Finally, you can also immerse yourself in Italian cuisine as you learn how to make two of its most beloved dishes — pasta and tiramisu — in the comfort of a local’s home. You’ll meet Cesarina, a certified ambassador of Italian culinary traditions. Enjoy an aperitivo, make fresh pasta with a sauce of your choice, and craft a delectable tiramisu with coffee and mascarpone.

Learn About Wine & Spirits

What a surprise — Ischia makes terrific wine, too. The island’s fertile soil, sun-kissed climate, and assorted grape varieties yield exceptional wines and liqueurs. Take advantage and sample regional specialties like Ischia Bianco, Ischia Rosso, or rucolino at the tiny bars and eateries that dot the island.

Additionally, Ischia offers several wine and spirits tours if you want to dive deeper into this exploration.

You can visit the first distillery in Ischia , established in 1888 by Vincenzo Pollio. It’s a great place to discover the art of crafting famous liqueurs like rucolino (made with rocket leaves, or arugula, as we call it in the states), finocchietto (made with fennel seeds), and limoncello (made with lemons). You’ll get to enjoy local snacks along with the booze.

You can also go on a Ischia vineyard and wine tasting tour to learn about Ischia’s winemaking at a family-run winery nestled near Mount Epomeo in Serrara Fontana. Stroll through vineyards, the cellar, and a small museum. You’ll sip four wines paired with a tagliere of salume , or local meats and cheeses, during this two-hour tour.

Visit Procida Island

One of the best things to do in Ischia is to take a day trip to the island of Procida, a colorful getaway in the Bay of Naples. You can explore Procida on your own by taking the ferry from Ischia — a quick 20-minute ride — or you can join one of the organized boat trips from Ischia with a guided tour.

What I love about Procida is that it’s very compact — a fraction of the size of Ischia. You can walk from end to end of the island in a day, admiring the charming houses, many of them painted bubblegum-pink. Definitely don’t miss the bright and colorful Marina Corricella, which you’ll want to photograph from every angle!

There are several tours from Ischia to Procida, but here are a few of the highest rated options:

On this guided cruise , you’ll go around Procida and stops at the most scenic spots, such as Marina Corricella, Terra Murata, and Chiaiolella. You can also enjoy some free time on the island to wander on your own, shop and eat.

This sailing experience lets you admire the beauty of Procida from the water with a professional skipper and a small group of guests. You can swim, snorkel, relax on board, and visit the island’s main attractions.

Want to visit independently? There are several different ferries between Ischia and Procida, which take between 15 and 25 minutes. It’s a good idea to book in advance if you’re visiting during high season, between late June and early September.

Go On A Photo Tour

Ischia is a fabulous place to photograph, and an even better place to get photos of yourself. There are several different options in different parts of the island — Forio, Sant’Angelo, and Ischia Ponte — where professional photographers in Ischia will get Instagram-worthy shots of you and your travel companions.

If you want to be close to the island’s center, consider the Ischia Ponte photo tour — which includes shots from where scenes from HBO’s version of My Brilliant Friend were filmed.

For a more small town feel, the Sant’Angelo 1-hour photo shoot will take you on an exciting journey through Ischia’s prettiest village. You’ll get beaches, town shots, and some of the island’s best sunsets.

How about busy Forio, packed with endless Italian charm? The one-hour Saraceni Alley photo tour delivers postcard-worthy shots in a perfect urban setting — easily recognizable as Italy, but not a cliché like the Amalfi Coast.

Private photo shoots are one of my favorite ways to splurge on trips, and these tours cost just 40-80 EUR ($46-91) each. That’s an incredible bargain for the memories you’ll treasure forever.

Wander Through Giardini La Mortella

One of the best natural sights in Ischia is Giardini la Mortella, a world-renowned botanical garden. This captivating garden boasts more than 3,000 plant species from around the globe. You’ll be surrounded by exotic plants, rare trees, tropical palms, succulents, and water lilies.

Divided into the Valley Garden and the Hill Garden, each area exudes its own natural charm and atmosphere. Don’t miss the chance to visit the museum, dedicated to the life and work of Sir William Walton, with the opportunity to listen to his music. 

Admission is 12 EUR ($14 USD) for adults, 7 EUR ($8 USD) for children aged 6-11, and free for children under five and disabled visitors. And make a note as you plan your trip that from April 1 to November 5, the garden welcomes visitors on Tuesdays, Thursdays, Saturdays, and Sundays only.

Experience A Thermal Spa

One of my favorite things I did in Ischia was visit a geothermal spa. Ischia island is famous for its natural hot springs, which have been used since ancient times for their therapeutic and soothing properties. (It’s just like Iceland — but tropical!)

Ne gombo , the spa I visited, is a tropical paradise located on the Bay of San Montano, where you can enjoy 14 thermal pools of different temperatures and fun features like warm waterfalls, surrounded by gardens on several levels. There is a really nice, calm beach here as well, with almost no waves. Spa treatments are available too; I recommend booking in advance. Negombo is open from spring through fall, and the entrance fee is 50 EUR ($53 USD) for a half day.

Giardini Poseidon is the largest geothermal spa in Ischia, with more than 20 pools overlooking the Bay of Citara. Right in Forio town, it’s one of the easier spots to access, and the grounds are full of lush greenery and surrounded by tall cliffs. A number of health and spa treatments are available. High season admission is 42 EUR ($44) for a full day and 37 EUR ($39) for an afternoon.

Centro Termale O’Vagnitiello is a cozy, family-friendly spa located in the village of Casamicciola Terme, near the Port of Ischia. Here you can relax in 12 thermal pools, some of them indoor and some outdoor, with views of Mount Epomeo and the sea. You can also benefit from the steam room, the sauna, and the wellness center. Centro Termale O’Vagnitiello is open all year round, and the entrance fee is 25 EUR ($27 USD) for a full day.

Hike Bosco Di Zaro

Experience adventure and nature in the stunning Bosco di Zaro, a volcanic forest park nestled in Ischia’s northwest. This natural oasis is a great choice for hikers.

You can choose from several hiking trails for different abilities, but one of the best ones starts from Lacco Ameno and goes up to the hill of Zaro, where the sanctuary of Madonna di Zaro has been a revered place of worship and pilgrimage since the 16th century. Continue your journey to Belvedere di Zaro, offering panoramic vistas of the Bay of San Montano and the island of Procida.

With free year-round access, Bosco di Zaro is easily reachable from the town of Lacco Ameno. The aforementioned hike takes about two hours round-trip.

Hike Mount Epomeo

For a more challenging but rewarding hike, you can head to Mount Epomeo (Monte Epomeo), the highest peak on Ischia. If you want to enjoy Ischia to the fullest, there’s nothing like seeing it from the top! I enjoyed this hike on one of my days in Ischia.

Mount Epomeo is a volcanic mass that was formed about 10,000 years ago and offers spectacular views of the island and the sea.

There are several trails that lead to the summit of Mount Epomeo, but one of the most popular ones starts from the village of Fontana. You can follow the signs to the sanctuary of San Nicola, a small church carved into the rock, and then continue along the path that zigzags up to the top.

The hike takes around two hours round-trip and I would classify it as a moderate hike with a few steep climbs but nothing too technical.

At the summit, you can enjoy the breathtaking panorama. Once you hit the cafe, you know you’re almost there — so treat yourself to a lemonade! The people working there are so nice.

Once you’re back at the bottom of the mountain in Fontana, grab a spritz for aperitivo at a bar, or head to Cantina U’Scilatur for dinner. Speaking of which…

Visit An Agriturismo for Dinner

One of the most authentic and delicious ways to enjoy the local cuisine of an Italian region is to visit an agriturismo for dinner, and Ischia is no exception. Agriturismi are farmhouses that serve food or offer accommodation, and the food is as local as it gets.

Charlie and I visited Cantina U’Scilatur in Barano d’Ischia for a memorable dinner that included ridiculous numbers of appetizers, sumptuous pastas, and the Ischia specialty of stewed rabbit in a pot. This is a lovely, beautiful, upscale agriturismo, and amusingly, we were there while a birthday party for a one-year-old fancier than our wedding was in full swing!

Don’t miss out on their local wines, and a proper meal always ends with Amaro, a fine digestivo.

This was the perfect spot to visit after climbing Mount Epomeo in the late afternoon, just before sunset. It’s a bit far from the popular parts of Ischia like Porto and Forio, so you might want to plan your visit carefully. Luckily, the bus stop is practically next door to the agriturismo!

Wander Through Ischia Porto

Ischia Porto is the beating heart of the island of Ischia, and it’s worth taking time to explore its streets. Here you can find lots of shops, restaurants, bars, and clubs. You can also admire the historic Michelangelo Tower or Guevara Tower, a former fortress and prison that overlooks the sea!

Ischia Porto is also a great place to enjoy the island’s beaches, which are sandy and clear despite being close to the port. You can relax at the Spiaggia degli Inglesi, a popular beach with sunbeds and umbrellas for rent. Or you can try some water sports or jet boat rentals at the port’s right bank, also known as la Rive Droite.

Discover Forio’s Charms

The town of Forio has something for everyone: stunning beaches, historic buildings, thermal parks, and art galleries. You will love exploring this town and its surroundings. It’s popularly known among the locals for its sunsets over the sea, which you can admire from the Chiesa del Soccorso, which is a white church on a cliff capturing the best views. 

Forio is also rich in history and culture, where you can visit some historic churches, palaces, and art galleries that showcase Forio’s heritage.

As for me? I loved Forio for its aperitivi — getting a cocktail and a plate of free snacks in the early evening, just before dinnertime. (One place actually gave us a water fun to fend off hungry pigeons.)

There are also some great places to eat in this town, like Pizzeria Da Ciccio. More on that below.

Visit Sant’Angelo

You might visit the town of Sant’Angelo as part of a photo tour or boat tour — but if you don’t do either of those things, you should make time to visit on your own. Sant’Angelo doesn’t have a ton of things to do — it’s just a really nice, really beautiful place where you can enjoy the atmosphere.

Sant’Angelo offers a few small but very nice beaches, like Le Fumarole Beach, where you’ll witness volcanic activity through steam jets rising from the sand. And if you’d like, there are a few smaller geothermal spas within walking distance — Romantica Thermal Park, Tropical Thermal Park, and Aphrodite Thermal Gardens.

I enjoyed the single-serving ice cream cakes at Bar Ridenta — just when I thought the desserts here couldn’t get any better, here was a whole variety of frozen cakes! Stay for dinner and you’ll get to enjoy sunset with your plate of pasta or freshly caught fish.

Visit Ischia’s Museums

You probably didn’t come to a gorgeous island to visit museums, but Ischia has some nice ones. And they make great activities for rare rainy days! Three museums stand out:

First, explore the Santa Restituta Museum in Lacco Ameno, where excavations dating back to the islands’ Greek colonization in the 8th century BC come to life. Discover pottery, coins, jewelry, statues, and remnants of an early Christian basilica and Roman thermal bath.

Next, head to Ischia Ponte’s Museo del Mare (Museum of the Sea), housed in a former prison tower that once defended the island against pirates. Dive into Ischia’s maritime heritage through ship models, fishing tools, naval uniforms, and historical documents while relishing stunning sea views from the tower’s windows.

Finally, the Museo Diocesano (Diocesan Museum) awaits in Ischia Ponte, adjacent to the Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta. Unveil religious art and objects from islands, churches, and convents, featuring paintings, sculptures, vestments, silverware, and relics from various periods and styles.

Ischia Restaurants

One of the best things about visiting Italy is eating all of the food! And Ischia has SO many good restaurants. There are dozens of fantastic restaurants on the island, but here are a few that I personally recommend:

Pizzeria da Cic cio in the town of Forio serves outstanding Neapolitan pizza (pictured above) — just as good as some of the best pizzas I’ve had in Naples. They have a second location in Ischia Ponte, very close to the castle.

Restaurant Auras in the town of Ischia Ponte was a fantastic surprise — delicious food with a view of the castle! Every dish was delicious; our favorite was the fried “eggplant balls” wrapped around smoked mozzarella.

Crù in the town of Ischia Porto is a great choice for seafood lovers in general, and raw seafood lovers in particular. They have a trio of three crudo that is worth trying.

And as mentioned above, Cantina U’Scilatur in the town of Barano d’Ischia is an agriturismo that serves the best traditional Ischian food I could have asked for, including stewed rabbit, rabbit pasta, and a truly insane volume of appetizers.

Where to Stay in Ischia, Italy

Where’s the best place to stay in Ischia? There are many different neighborhoods around the island, each of them providing a different feel.

Overall, if you had to choose one neighborhood in Ischia, I would recommend Ischia Porto, running eastward to Ischia Ponte and the Castello Aragonese. It’s far more than the place where the boats come in — this is also home to some of the best dining and shopping on the island, and there’s a really nice stretch of sand with beachfront hotels.

You can walk down to the castle, hop onto a boat tour at the port, or jump on a bus that will take you to a different part of the island. Everything runs through Ischia Porto, and that’s convenient.

Top-Rated Hotels in Ischia, Italy

The following top-rated hotels are all located in Ischia Porto:

• Top-Rated Luxury Hotel in Ischia: Miramare e Castello has a million-dollar view of the Castello Aragonese, with gorgeous rooms, a swimming pool, and access to an underground spa.
• Top-Rated Mid-Range Hotel in Ischia: Parco Aurora Terme offers high value for money, with two swimming views, sea views, and comfortable rooms for a great price.
• Top-Rated Budget Hotel in Ischia: Hotel del Postiglione is a family-run hotel with simple furnishings. No sea view, but there’s a roof terrace, and you’re close to everything.
• Find more places to stay in Ischia here.

How to Get to Ischia, Italy

Ischia is a very easy place to get to, thanks to its proximity to Naples. In fact, it’s probably one of the easiest Italian islands to get to, period!

Naples is well-connected with flights all over Europe (and a few places in the US these days). From Naples, there are tons of continuous ferries to Ischia: car ferries and passenger-only ferries (hydrofoils). Which ferry is best? It depends.

Car ferries take longer (90 minutes) and don’t necessarily have seats for all ticket holders; you may need to stand. But they tend to be a much steadier journey and better for people with motion sickness.

Passenger-only ferries take less time (about one hour) and have enough seats for all ticket holders. But boat rides in the Bay of Naples can often induce a bit of queasiness. I’ve unfortunately seen a few people throwing up on hydrofoils to Capri and Procida in the past; I’ve also had some perfectly placid journeys. If you are prone to motion sickness, you may prefer the car ferry.

You can see ferry options from Naples to Ischia and buy tickets here. I recommend buying your tickets as soon as possible if you’re visiting during the summer months.

All ferries drop you off at Ischia Porto. There are also ferries to Ischia from Sorrento and the islands of Procida and Capri .

How to Get Around Ischia

Do you need a car in Ischia? I wouldn’t recommend it. It’s so easy to get around by bus (or taxi if you wish), and parking is a nightmare in developed areas. If you want to bring your car, absolutely make sure that parking is included with your accommodation. Call your accommodation to double-check.

There is a bus system running around Ischia, which is an easy and cheap way to get around the island. A single ride ticket is 1.60 EUR ($1.70 USD), which you buy in advance from a tabbachi (a shop with a big T sign). You can find schedules there, too, and your accommodation can help you find the right buses.

There is no Uber or any ride-sharing app in Ischia, but there are taxis. Being on an island, Ischia taxis will charge you a lot more than you’d pay in, say, Naples.

Best Time to Visit Ischia, Italy

Ischia is very much a summer destination — it’s all about lying on the beach, swimming in the sea, and eating as much gelato as humanly possible. That said, like most of Italy, the months of July and August are incredibly busy and expensive time to visit.

I visited in early June and it was perfect — it was summery, warm enough to swim in the water, and it didn’t feel crowded at all. Early June is a FABULOUS time to experience summer in Italy (especially southern Italy) without the crowds. Late September and early October would also be great options for visiting Ischia.

July and August are extremely busy times to visit Ischia. You should expect high prices for accommodation, crowds everywhere, and you should book tours and ferries as early as you can, because they can and do sell out. Even so, summer is a fabulous time of year to be on Ischia.

If you want to visit Ischia in the shoulder season — April, May, mid-to-late October and November — temperatures will be more mild, it will be less crowded, and you can enjoy a very pleasant place to be without doing all of the summer activities.

Ischia is a place where people live year-round (it has a population of about 20,000), so it never empties out completely here. While many tourism-based businesses will shut down during the winter months, there will still be a few places to stay and plenty of restaurants open — particularly if you stick to the cities.

That said, if it were up to me, I would choose early June or late September as the best time to visit Ischia.

How Much Time To Spend in Ischia

Ischia is not just a lie-on-the-beach destination (I hope you realize that by now, this deep into the post!). It’s a surprisingly large island with lots of interesting things to do.

To make the most of your time on Ischia, I highly recommend spending at least three full days. One day can be devoted to your boat trip; a second day can be for exploring the castle and perhaps a hike or the botanical gardens; a third day can give you time at a thermal spa and spending time exploring the towns.

If you only have time for a brief visit — say, only a day visit — I recommend that you spend your time in Ischia Porto heading down to the Castello Aragonese in Ischia Ponte.

Want to book an organized day trip to Ischia? You can! I recommend booking this day trip to Ischia from Naples or this day trip to Ischia and Procida from Sorrento . Both of these trips are well-organized and give you time to explore on your own as well as some gorgeous sails around the island and swim stops!

Travel Insurance for Ischia

And as we wrap up this post — it’s absolutely essential to have travel insurance before traveling to Ischia, or anywhere in Italy.  If you get sick or injured on your trip, if you get robbed, or even if you have to be flown home for more care, travel insurance will protect you from financial ruin.  World Nomads is a company I have used for trips to Italy.

Travel insurance will help you in your hour of need if you come down with acute illness during your time in Ischia, or trip and break a bone when climbing the castle, or if your flights get canceled, you can get accommodation and new flights paid for.

As always, be sure to read your policy carefully and make sure it’s a fit for you.  See what World Nomads covers here.

Is Ischia Worth It?

Ischia is one of my new favorite places in Italy — and I am so in love with it. Yes, Ischia is very much worth it, and I think it’s even more worth it than several of Italy’s more popular coastal destinations, from Capri to Cinque Terre.

I hope you have as good a time in Ischia as I did. I think you’re really going to love it here.

Planning a Trip to Italy:

• What NOT to Do in Italy
• Solo Female Travel in Italy: Is it Safe?
• Ultimate Guide to Driving in Italy
• How to Stay at an Agriturismo in Italy
• 30 Stunning Mediterranean Islands To Visit In Your Lifetime

Cool Places in Southern Italy:

• 28 Fabulous Things to Do in Naples, Italy
• 16 Fun Things to Do in Sorrento, Italy
• Tropea, Italy: A Spectacularly Situated Beach Town
• The Stunning Trulli of Alberobello, Italy
• The Joys and Challenges of Traveling in Sicily
• 22 Beautiful Places to Visit in Sicily
• Where to Go in Eastern Sicily
• 23 Fun Things to Do in Palermo, Sicily
• Complete Guide to the Aeolian Islands, Sicily
• Aci Trezza: A Laid-Back Coastal Town in Sicily
• Visiting Sicily in the Winter: Worth it or not?
• 16 Fab Things to do in Lecce, Italy
• 17 Fun Things to do in Bari, Italy
• 15 Best Things to do in Monopoli, Italy
• 17 Fun Things to do in Matera, Italy

Cool Places in Northern Italy:

• Three Weeks in Northern Italy: An Itinerary
• Parma, Italy: A Colorful, Artsy, Delicious Town
• Where to Stay in Rome: Best Neighborhoods and Accommodation
• Three Days in the Dolomites: A South Tyrol Getaway
• Best Day Trips from Florence, Italy
• The Immaculate, Bursting Mosaics of Ravenna, Italy
• 25 Best Food Experiences in Emilia-Romagna, Italy

Have you been to Ischia Italy? What was your favorite thing you did? Share away!

• Skip to main content
• Skip to primary sidebar
• Skip to footer

Top 15 Bucket List Things to do in Ischia, Italy in 2024

Sean Finelli Last Updated: October 26, 2023

If you are considering an Amalfi Coast vacation this year but are unsure of your budget then Ischia may be the place for you. Ischia is an incredible island off the coast of Naples, Italy which offers crystal blue water, beautiful rock formations, inexpensive prices compared to the Amalfi Coast, and incredible food (it is Italy). Here are some of the top things to do in Ischia .

Heading to Ischia? Also check out where to stay in Ischia including curated hotel recommendations .

15 Things To Do in Ischia

If you head to the Caribbean your choice of things to do are likely snorkeling and beach-going. The Mediterranean has beautiful islands as well which are rich with geographic features and in my opinion, lots more to do.

Ischia is one of my favorite destinations if you like an active vacation for a few reasons. First, I love rock formations on any beach I visit. Second, I love crystal blue water. And finally, the food in Italy is incomparable with other destinations which is especially a factor near Naples. Here are the top things to do and the best beaches to visit in Ischia!

15. Spiaggia (Beach) di Cava Grado

Ischia is all about its coves and rock features. Spiaggia di Cava Grado is a nice little beach but if you follow the rocky coastline from the water you’ll find some amazing coves and water. Find a kayak or bring a float and you’ll have yourself a great afternoon. You’ll be right near Ristorante Deus Neptunus Ischia, our next bucket-list item, which is an incredible lunch or dinner choice.

14. Ristorante Deus Neptunus Ischia

The name translates to the Restaurant of the God Neptune who is the god of the sea. The restaurants offers delicious seafood dishes and even better views on their expansive outdoor patio. This one is a MUST!

13. Le Fumarole di Maronti

This is one of the coolest things you can do in Ischia if not the entire world. The island is volcanic and this beach sits on a volcanic basin. I won’t pretend to know much about volcanology, but I do know that volcanos are hot and so is this beach. The sand can be up to 100 C on the hottest portions and locals insist there are medical healing properties. Ischians will recommend you dig a hole (not on the hottest parts of the beach) and let water from the sea fill it up. Then sit in it and you will feel better than you did when you woke up in the morning!

On the hottest parts of the beach, 100 C, locals will often cook food on the super-heated rocks!

12. Spiaggia di San Montano & Negombo Thermal Spa

A beautiful beach on the northwestern corner of Ischia defined by massive cliffs on all sides. One of the highlights on this incredible beach is the thermal Negombo Thermal Spa . If you’re like me, you cringe at the price list on most spas, but this one is a thermal spa. While they do have some pricey products, you can inexpensively use much of their facilities like thermal pools and fountains.

11. Giardini la Mortella

The Giardini la Mortella is a “splended garden” which was designed by Susana Walton who was the wife of composer Sir William Walton. The garden is so incredible beautiful and feels like you are in a magical land on another planet. It is full of exotic plants and flowers of powerfully bright colors which makes it great for adults and kids!

10. Aperitivo at Porto 51 (Ischia Port)

As I will mention in # 8, the port of Ischia is a great place to spend an evening. If you do check out, definitely plan on having a drink at Porto 51 . Really cool cocktail bar with great drinks, food, and views!

9. Spend the Day at Centro Termale o’Vagnitiello

Centro Termale O’Vagnitiello is a great option if you are looking to enjoy Ischia’s thermal heated waters. It is literally right on top of the sea and has great facilities. The photo here does not do it justice in any way which is why you should visit their website . You can also stay there as it is a hotel which I definitely recommend – check out booking .

8. Dinner at Ristorante L’Altra Mezzanotte (Ischia Port)

The Port of Ischia is a cool port surrounded by shops and restaurants which makes it perfect for an evening stroll, dinner, and drinks! The via Porto is a pedestrian way lined with outdoor seating and we highly recommend Ristorante L’Altra Mezzanotte. As is the theme of any good island, stick with seafood!

7. Spend the Day at Spiaggia dei Pescatori (Fisherman’s Beach)

Beaches in Italy, and most of Europe, are done a bit differently than in the states. Many Italian beaches are occupied by beach clubs where you rent a bed (lounge chair) and you can also eat lunch there. Spiaggia dei Pescatori is no different. Find a beach club with a nice view and enjoy the day on one of Ischia’s most popular beaches!

6. Rent a Boat to Spiaggia San Pancrazio and See the Grotta Verde

Italy is known for its Grotto’s and Ischia has some amazing ones. The southeastern shores of Ischia are almost completely uninhabited which makes them a real treat. Renting a boat from the main town in Ischia will allow you to visit some of these amazing areas, including the Green Grottos , and have an extremely memorable day.

Renting a boat can be fun if you are experienced driving one so be careful or hire a boat with a captain! Don’t pass up on this experience because it may be more difficult to arrange – life is an adventure!

If you do rent a boat you have to stop for lunch at Ristorante La Pace . The restaurant is only reachable by boat which makes it even cooler!

5. Castello Aragonese d’Ischia

Castello Aragonese , or the Castel fo Aragon, is the most prominent attraction in Ischia which is visible from many points on the island. The medieval castle sits on a volcanic island which likely appears some 300k years in the past.

While the castle is not 300k old itself, its origins date back to the 5th century B.C. when Greek settlers first constructed a fortification. The structure you see today was built by the Aragonesi which were Spaniards from Barcelona. They were a powerful family for a large portion of the 2nd millennia after Christ.

Today, there are lots of areas on the island/castle to roam around and take pictures. It costs 12€ to enter and is open 7 days a week from 9 am to sunset. There is even a bar where you can have an “ aperitivo ” named Il Terrazzo! See below.

4. Aperitivo at “Il Terrazzo” a the Castello Aragonese

Castello Aragonese is full of cool things to do. One of them is getting a scenic cocktail, beer, or glass of wine with an amazing view which is something you are likely to remember. When you get to the Castle, described above, follow the signs for “ Il Terrazzo” and enjoy the view!

3. Hike Bosco di Zaro to Punta Spaccarello

On the northwestern corner of Ischia there is an area known as Bosco di Zaro which translates to the Forest of Zaro. It is a series of establish trails in a beautifully wooded portion of Ischia. You can hike around but definitely head towards Punta Spacccarello or the other steep cliffs in the area. They are truly beautiful. Once finished, check out point number 2 below.

2. Spend the Afternoon at La Baia Ristorante

You should consider combining your hike of Bosco di Zaro with a lunch and afternoon at La Baia Ristorante. They are close to one another and a perfect day when combined. Many of us in the states are used to expansive beaches which are our main way to swim in the Ocean. In Italy, it is very often that your beaches are replaced by beautiful and interesting rock formations that can be very unique and memorable.

1. Lunch or Dinner at O Sole Mio

There are very few truly “authentic” restaurants left out there which is what makes O Sole Mio so special. Everyone these days is trying to run a business, I can’t blame them, and Francesco del Neso is just trying to fill stomachs and make people happy.

O Sole Mio is technically an agriturismo which has a “no frils” but high quality restaurant. Simple dishes made with locally farmed ingredients by none other than Francesco himself. You’ll sit on a homemade wooden bench and eat off plastic tables, but you’ll eat well.

For me, one of the most important things when traveling is to get in touch with your destination. O Sole Mio may be your best opportunity to do exactly that!

About Sean Finelli

Sean is a co-founder and owner of The Tour Guy and its subsidiary The Roman Guy. He studied finance and statistics, but that is his "Dr. Jekyll" side! His "Mr. Hyde" is in love with travel, art, history, and culture. Sean has read libraries of historical text and believes that all internet content should come from books. A practice he follows!

Reader Interactions

Leave a comment cancel reply.

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

• Travel Blog
• In The Press

POLICY & TERMS

• Cancellation Policy
• Terms & Conditions
• Privacy Policy

• Search Please fill out this field.
• Manage Your Subscription
• Give a Gift Subscription
• Newsletters
• Sweepstakes
• Destinations

This Italian Island Near Capri Has an Ancient Castle, Thermal Hot Springs, and Luxe Boutique Hotels

How to explore under-the-radar Ischia.

Lindsay Cohn is a writer, editor, and avid traveler who has visited 45 countries across six continents — and counting. She contributes to Travel + Leisure, Hotels Above Par, InsideHook, Well+Good, The Zoe Report, and more.

alxpin/Getty Images

Italy is a beloved European destination, with hotspots from Rome to Ravello, and yet the boot-shaped nation still has some low-key treasures to uncover. These lesser-known places offer travelers that special feeling of discovering a hidden gem — a place that’s not teeming with crowds or overflowing with touristy souvenir shops and restaurants that locals would never patronize.  For an Italian getaway that’s both less crowded and less expensive — especially as compared to nearby Capri — there's Ischia, an island that retains its rustic sensibility and charm, giving visitors access to culture, local cuisine, and unblemished natural landscapes. In-the-know travelers and locals rave about this under-the-radar volcanic island in the Gulf of Naples. From beaches and thermal hot springs to Roman remains and centuries-old architecture, there's much to entertain here.  Rather escape the throngs of tourists and experience a more serene side of southern Italy? Scroll on for expert tips for an unforgettable trip to Ischia.

Related : Travel and Leisure Readers' 10 Favorite Resorts in Italy of 2023

Best Hotels and Resorts in Ischia

Botania relais & spa.

Inspired by the beauty of its surroundings, Botania Relais & Spa , a member of Leading Hotels of the World , channels the ethos of Ischia. It's an intimate and family-run oasis enveloped by nature; the white-washed architecture and lush greenery create a sense of calm. A sanctuary for well-being, the spa invites relaxation with plant-driven therapies, thermal pools, and a grotto steam bath. 

Mezzatorre Hotel & Thermal Spa

Built inside a 16th-century watch tower on a rocky outcrop overlooking the idyllic Gulf of Naples, Mezzatorre Hotel & Thermal Spa oozes discreet luxury with sophisticated rooms, an outdoor pool, a tennis court, a thermal spa, and two scene-stealing restaurants. According to Simone Amorico, co-founder of Access Italy , it’s one of the most exclusive and trendy places to stay on the island at the moment. 

San Montano Resort & Spa

Luxurious and flush with amenities, San Montano Resort & Spa has so much for guests — from thermal pools and a spa to nautically-influenced suites and multiple restaurants — that it’s hard to imagine leaving. Then again, proximity to beaches and botanical gardens makes a compelling case for exploring beyond the property. 

Regina Isabella Resort & Spa

An iconic hotel since the 1950s, Regina Isabella Resort & Spa continues to lure well-heeled travelers with its bioactive thermal baths and mud treatments, luxurious rooms, Michelin-starred restaurant, and private beach. With superb cocktails and stunning views of the sea, it’s also a favorite spot for aperitivo. 

Albergo Il Monastero

Before being converted into a hotel, Albergo Il Monastero, which sits inside Castello Aragonese on a small island off the coast of Ischia, was a 16th-century convent. In its present-day iteration, terracotta floors and handcrafted decor by local artisans inject a sense of warmth and authenticity that gives travelers the impression of staying in a soulful, heritage-rich place. 

Best Things to Do in Ischia

Maremagnum/Getty Images

Castello Aragonese

A must for history lovers, photographers, and film buffs, Castello Aragonese is an ancient castle poised on a rocky islet that’s connected to the larger island of Ischia by a causeway. It was first erected by Hiero I of Syracuse in 474 BC, but what stands today dates to the reign of King Alfonso of Aragon in the 1400s. The castle served as a film location for part of the 1963 movie “Cleopatra,” starring Elizabeth Taylor and Richard Burton.

Mount Epomeo

Mount Epomeo, the highest mountain on the island of Ischia, rises 2,589 feet above sea level. "Many active travelers choose to hike to the top for sweeping views," says Rita Buono, owner/general manager of Botania Relais & Spa and a Black Tomato local expert. It's not a super challenging climb and only takes about an hour each way. 

Gozzo Boat Tour

“One of the most beautiful ways to admire the beauty of Ischia is from the water,” says Buono. A half-day tour on a traditional wooden gozzo boat allows visitors to see many sea caves and swim in the crystal-clear tides of the Tyrrhenian Sea.

Spiaggia dei Maronti

Among the most popular beaches in Ischia, Spiaggia dei Maronti beckons summer visitors with its soft sand and cerulean water, making it the ideal place for catching rays and swimming in the Tyrrhenian Sea. Relaxation seekers can rent sun loungers and umbrellas for the day. There are some great local eateries nearby, too. 

Baia di Sorgeto

Maurizio Siani/Getty Images

Ischia is quite famous for its thermal hot springs. Arguably the best-known soaking spot on the island, Baia di Sorgeto supplies a variety of different seawater rock pools that are naturally heated by underground volcanic activity. It’s also a nice place for snapping photos and sunbathing.  

Best Restaurants in Ischia

Dani maison.

Critics and diners heap praise upon Dani Maison . “This two-starred Michelin restaurant is helmed by chef/owner Nino Di Costanzo, who creates artfully plated dishes that are emblematic of the soul of Ischia for patrons to devour in the dining room of an old family house that’s surrounded by Mediterranean gardens,” says Buono. 

Agriturismo Malvisiello

It’s well worth navigating the narrow, steep road up to Agriturismo Malvisiello , a rustic and cozy restaurant perched at the top of a hill in Forio. “Besides the beautiful, off-the-beaten-path setting, it’s well known for having incredible, locally sourced vegetables and a delicious signature rabbit dish,” says Buono.  

Ristorante Il Mirto

Vegetarian cuisine isn’t the first thing most people think of when it comes to dining in Ischia. Ristorante Il Mirto , a sustainably minded concept at Botania Relais & Spa, endeavors to change that with vegetable-forward tasting menus that spotlight seasonal produce from organic local farms on the island. 

La Porta di Agartha

The perfect spot to eat after hiking Monte Epomeo, La Porta di Agartha is a lovely eatery with a magical, nature-steeped setting, delicious food, and genuine hospitality. The terrace overlooking the sea wows without question, but it's house-made specialties like gnocchi and scialatielli pasta with fresh tomatoes that steal the show.  

Ristorante Indaco

For fine dining, Amorico recommends Ristorante Indaco , the upscale, Michelin-starred restaurant at Regina Isabella Resort & Spa. “The view of the sea is stunning, and it’s perfect for a romantic dinner under the stars that’s sure to impress seafood lovers.”

Best Wineries in Ischia

Cenatiempo vini d'ischia.

Family-owned and operated for generations, Cenatiempo Vini D'Ischia is one of the most important wineries on the island and produces terroir-driven pours that express the volcanic nature of the land. Tastings include local products such as cured meats, cheeses, and bread. 

Perrazzo vini d'Ischia

The oldest winery on the island, Perrazzo vini d'Ischia dates back to 1880. Visitors can tour the ancient wine cave, which boasts a private collection of 12,000 bottles. It’s an incredible opportunity to walk through a piece of history and sample some wonderful wine along the way. 

Casa D'Ambra

Another family-owned treasure, Casa D'Ambra honors its long-standing traditions while continuing to innovate. "It’s my favorite vineyard to visit because of the mix of ancestral practices and science that produce such superb wine and, of course, the warm hospitality,” explains Amorico. 

Best Time to Visit Ischia

Xantana/Getty Images

Like many seasonal Italian holiday destinations (such as Capri and the Amalfi Coast ), travelers begin to arrive to Ischia around Easter and depart in mid-October. Tourism peaks in July and August. If you’re looking to enjoy warm weather and fewer crowds, consider the calmer months of May and September. 

How to Get to Ischia

Visitors bound for Ischia will arrive in Naples either by plane or train. From there, it's a short ferry or hydrofoil ride to Ischia.

How to Get Around Ischia

Ischia is quite small and easy to navigate. To that end, it’s possible to drive the entire island in about 90 minutes. Most travelers either rent a car or use public transport to get around. 

Related Articles

• DESTINATIONS
• EXPERIENCES

Ischia Travel Guide: A Little Jewel in the Gulf of Naples

Ciao! Welcome to my guide on Ischia – an island in the Gulf of Naples. My name is Federica Xotti and I was born in 1992, in a little town near Udine in the northeast of Italy. I graduated from the University of Udine with a degree in Science and Cultural Tourism, and lived in Udine until I was 24.

I began to get interested in travel at the age of 18. It all started when my passport permitted me to move and travel alone (without my parents). In 2011, I started my blog to share my experiences around the world because I love writing. However, I couldn’t have imagined what would happen next.

Within just a few short years, I started to collaborate with tourism boards and travel agencies to promote destinations, hotels, activities, etc. Initially, this was through my blog and then it was across my social media accounts.

When I was 24, I moved to Milan . I have lived in this city for three years and have developed more collaborations with other kinds of brands including beauty, fashion and food brands. This has enabled me to become an all-round content creator. Last year, I also published a book called “Il mio mondo è a colori” where I talk about my experiences around the world.

Three Wonderful Days in Ischia

I visited Ischia because I had a collaboration with a hotel on the island. I stayed at La Madonnina – an amazing hotel right on the sea. This gave me the opportunity to visit the island for the first time which I was grateful for.

I stayed in Ischia for three days but I hope to come back soon because it’s a great destination for a holiday. The island is large (considering the size of the other islands in the Gulf of Naples) and the best way to get around is by scooter (renting one on the island) or taking advantage of public buses.

Ischia is divided into five villages and each one has its own characteristics and beauty. I enjoyed the local food on the island which was incredibly yummy and I loved relaxing on the beaches. Taking part in a day-long boat trip is also a fantastic idea to enjoy Ischia from a completely different view.

Ischia – A Little Jewel of Italy

Ischia is a little jewel! Everyone should visit because it offers lots of different opportunities: you can relax in the thermal baths, swim at the beaches, visit cultural places such as churches, see the Castello Aragonese d’Ischia and so on. It’s also a wonderful location for photography lovers as there are many interesting spots and viewpoints that are picturesque.

The one place in Ischia that really took my breath away was Sant’Angelo – an awesome little village. It’s little but so charming, with an amazing little rocky hill that you can climb up to admire a spectacular view from the top.

Top 10 Things To Do in Ischia

• Relax in the thermal baths
• Enjoy a boat trip all around the island
• Go shopping at Via Roma in Ischia Porto
• Sunbathe and relax at the beautiful beaches
• Explore Sant’Angelo to shoot beautiful pictures
• Watch the sunset in front of Castello Aragonese d’Ischia
• Fall in love with the island by simply enjoying every moment
• Take a coffee or dessert break at Bar Calise, a historic place of Ischia
• Visit Forio and its church (Chiesa del Soccorso) at the top of the village
• Get lost in the Giardini la Mortella – a spectacular garden developed by the wife of British composer Sir William Walton.

I think my best memory from Ischia was the aperitif I enjoyed in front of Castello Aragonese d’Ischia at sunset. It was such a magical moment. I love spending time by ancient buildings, enjoying a nice glass of wine, watching the sunset on the sea and taking in the scenery while sitting down.

Need to Know Before you Go

The inhabitants of Ischia (around 60,000 people), just like the other people who live in Southern Italy, are very very welcoming. They are extremely kind and smiling. It’s actually impossible not to love them when you meet them.

In addition to the friendly people, the local cuisine in Ischia is delicious. My favorite dish there was called Coniglio all’ Ischitana (Ischian rabbit) with cherry tomatoes, onion, garlic and a bunch of herbs such as rosemary, sage, thyme and marjoram. The fish recipes on the island are also worth trying.

For your accommodation, I recommend staying at La Madonnina (where I stayed) and also Regina Isabella . Keep in mind though that Ischia is not cheap, so if you would like to enjoy it all you have to have a high budget. Also, don’t rent a car – it’s difficult to drive around the little streets of the island. I suggest hiring a scooter instead, as it’s easier to drive and park.

BY FEDERICA XOTTI IG: @TRAVELLIAMO WWW.TRAVELLIAMO.ME

Author:  Federica Xotti

Frederica Xotti is an Italian travel and lifestyle blogger, and social media influencer with over 100,000 Instagram followers. She is also a published author of the book: “Il mio mondo é a colori”.

Related posts

Leave a Reply Cancel reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

Save my name, email, and website in this browser for the next time I comment.

Post comment

Travel experiences

Accommodation.

Beaches & Islands

Food & Drink

Historical Sites

Living Abroad

National Parks

Towns & Villages

Travel Tips

Sign up to our newsletter

• Italian Holidays
• Italian Property
• Italian Recipes
• Privacy Policy

Ischia Travel Guide

Discover the best things to see and do in our ischia travel guide….

Ischia, the charming ‘Green Island’ affectionately known as the Isola Verde, is situated in the Tyrrhenian Sea off the coast of Naples, Italy.

Ischia is a small paradise offering an abundance of natural springs, pristine sandy beaches, vibrant towns with abundant shops, and delectable local produce infused in every dish.

Unlike its more exclusive neighbour, Capri, Ischia is accessible to everyone via a short ferry ride from the Port of Naples, making it a beloved destination for both locals and travellers seeking a rejuvenating escape.

This volcanic island is one of Europe’s largest natural spas, drawing visitors since the 8th century BC. The Greeks, who first named the island Pithecusae, recognized the supernatural powers of its thermal springs, setting the foundation for centuries of therapeutic tradition.

From the Romans introducing public thermae to its allure for European nobility in the 1700s and later artists and intellectuals, Ischia has held a special place in the hearts of many.

Uncover the island’s finest restaurants, hotels, and attractions with our Ischia travel guide, helping you immerse yourself in the rich history and natural beauty of Ischia.

What to see and do in Ischia

1. take a boat trip.

Embark on a trip around the circumference of Ischia or set sail to the smaller nearby island of Procida. Ischia Seadream offers daily voyages from the town of Forio including a unique experience on a ‘gozzo’ – a traditional wooden fishing boat found around the south of Italy.

Porto di Forio (in front of the town hall) Porto d’Ischia (right bank)

2. Hike up Mount Epomeo

Head to the village of Fontana to start your 50-minute trek to the highest peak on the island and be rewarded with spectacular panoramic views.

The walk takes you through some beautiful woodland before a final climb up the rocky path to the summit. Make sure you wear appropriate footwear – flip-flops are not recommended!

3. See Poseidon’s Thermal Gardens

Poseidon’s Thermal Gardens are the most-visited thermal gardens on the island, with more than 20 pools, a private beach, a restaurant and more. The facilities are immaculately kept and there is so much to try out that you can take the day at your own pace.

Via Giovanni Mazzella, SNC, Baia di Citara, Forio d’Ischia

4. Go on an underwater adventure with ANS Diving Ischia

The crystal clear waters surrounding Ischia are ideal for a spot of snorkelling and scuba diving. You can also visit the Green Cave and the Wizard’s Cave, including the archaeological site of the Ninfeo Rock along the Roman walls submerged around the Aragonese Castle.

Via Girolamo Rocca, 13 – Ischia Ponte

5.  Don’t miss the Ischia Film Festival

The Aragonese Castle is the perfect setting for this annual celebration of cinematography in late June. Enjoy outdoor screenings, exhibitions, and meetings with the authors throughout the week. Feature films and documentaries can be enjoyed regardless of your language level as they tend to focus on locations.

6. Visit the Archaelogical Museum of Pithecusae

Located in Lacco Ameno, in the Villa Arbusto, which was previously the residence of Italian film producer and publisher Angelo Rizzoli, the museum testifies to the ancient origins of the island.

The most famous object on display is Nestor’s Cup, a wine cup with an epigram that is the oldest known example of Greek writing, dating back to the 8th century BC.

7. Check out the Chiesa del Soccorso

This delightful little church is a must-see. Sitting on top of a wide double staircase with the open sea below and mountains behind, it stands like a white beacon on the island perimeter. Its ancient origins date back to 1350 when it was an Augustinian monastery, but it was restructured in the 18th and 19th centuries.

Where to stay in Ischia

1. punta chiarito resort.

Via Sorgeto, 87 – Forio

Tom Alberto Bull stayed at this resort for his travel blog, 48 hours in Ischia . It’s a beautifully situated 4-star resort isolated on a cliff edge overlooking the town of Sant’Angelo on one side and the Baia di Sorgeto on the other.

Punta Chiarito is run by three generations of the same family who supply their restaurant with ingredients sourced from their own farm on the island. The spring water pool features a spectacular 40-metre tunnel dug into the rock.

2. Hotel Zaro

Via Tommaso Cigliano, 132 – Forio

Situated along the coast between the Giardini La Mortella and the bustling town of Forio, this 4-star hotel is an ideal base for exploring some of the best attractions on the island.

It features three pools, a sun terrace, and direct access to one of Ischia’s finest beaches at San Francesco Bay.

3. Sorriso Thermae Resort

Via Provinciale Panza, 311 – Forio

Take in views of the Citara Bay and the Poseidon Thermal Gardens from this stunning family-run 4-star resort and spa. It has five thermal pools with 24-hour access, plus live music and dancing every night of the week throughout the summer months – the perfect hangout for night owls.

4. Hotel Continental Terme

Via Michele Mazzella, 70 – Ischia

With the tagline ‘An island within the island’, this Mediterranean-style complex has enough facilities to keep you occupied without ever having to leave the premises. There’s a refined restaurant, a piano and poolside bar, plus a family playground, tennis courts, and gardens.

It also has the advantage of being within close proximity of the main port and the Aragonese Castle.

5. Hotel da Maria

Via Cartaromana, 79 – Ischia

Located in Ischia’s Cartaromana Bay with access to a private beach and views of the Castello Aragonese, this 4-star hotel is the perfect choice for a romantic getaway. Take advantage of the taxi-boat service direct from the port to simplify your travel arrangements.

Where to eat in Ischia

1. la grotta da diore.

Via Epomeo, 21 – Serrara Fontana

If you do decide to take a hike up Mount Epomeo, you will be able to take full advantage of the panoramic views from this little gem dug into the rock face. La Grotta da Fiore is ideal for a spot of lunch. Here the emphasis is on local dishes – including the ever popular rabbit stew – served politely and with the minimum of fuss.

2. Girarrosto da Nicola

Via Baiola, 1 – Forio | +39 081 997954

For another delicious meal on a budget, grab some rotisserie chicken, roast potatoes and a parmigiana, all cooked in a wood fire oven, and take it down to the seafront. It’s not unusual to see a (disorderly) queue forming outside this takeaway joint, so head down before it all sells out.

3. Ristorante Core a Core

Via Marina, 15 – Forio

Core a Core is a recently opened restaurant in Forio which has good food and friendly and accommodating staff. You can enjoy a free glass of prosecco on your arrival as well as a personal welcome from the chef. Specialities include tuna tartare and octopus ragù – but do save room for dessert.

4. Zio Peppe

Via Leonardo Mazzella, 140 – Ischia

Expect a warm and friendly welcome from this traditional family-run restaurant serving big portions out of two large wood fire ovens. Popular with tourists, the locals help to keep it busy even during quieter periods of the year, with many using it for birthday celebrations. Within walking distance of Ischia Port.

5. Ristorante Tiramisu

Via Porto, 26 – Ischia

Take a seat on one of the tables overlooking the port and watch the world go by. Ask to see the catch of the day and enjoy some of the best fresh fish on offer. Italian dishes with a modern twist.

Getting to Ischia

• BY PLANE Naples international airport is the closest on the mainland, and there is a regular bus service taking you directly from there to the ferry port.
• BY CAR Cars and mopeds are readily available for hire once you arrive in Ischia Porto.
• BY FERRY There are regular services throughout the day from the main port of Naples, with the quickest taking just 50 minutes to make the crossing.

Get more holiday tips in our Travel Archive

Featured photo © todamo via Getty Images

• Fractional Ownership
• Regional Guides
• Learn Italian
• Reader’s Photos
• Competitions
• Subscribe to Italia!
• Back issues
• Italia! Guide
• Advertising

Travel guide to Ischia, Italy | A small Italian island off the coast of Naples

• October 22, 2019

Looking for a new place to discover? Head to the island of Ischia! It’s an island just off the coast of Naples, Italy and is a great place to explore and relax. There are plenty of things to do in Ischia like visiting a terme or the beach. But my favorite thing to do was drink local wine and eat. Not that that shocks any of you.

Islands live by the beat of their own drum and since it’s a relatively unknown spot for many, I wanted to create this guide to Ischia for you. We’ve been a couple of times, stayed in different parts of the island, and visited over different seasons throughout the year which means it’s about time to help you discover this gem.

This post contains affiliate links which means this website may earn a commission if you make a purchase through these links.  More information in the footer.

Your guide to Ischia, Italy

As independent travelers, any new place can pose challenges because you just don’t know how it all works. What should you eat? Where should you stay? Which souvenirs are the best to take home? Nobody wants a t-shirt (unless they specifically ask for one!).

Honestly, it’s one of the biggest stressors for me. Figuring out all this stuff takes time and patience (and sometimes you only figure it out by making mistakes). I’m really just hoping to save you some frustration and time on your next trip. Guys, seriously, if you want to check out an island for relaxing, Ischia may be what you are looking for! If you’re headed there from Naples, we have a whole post on how to get to Ischia from Naples by ferry .

Watch our Italian playlist on YouTube

Souvenirs from Ischia

Visitors love to take home a little something from their trips as reminders or gifts. I love this idea! Just remember to keep in mind how much you can realistically take with you. Are you traveling carry-on only? Then you’ll have to buy alcohol and other liquids after security at the airport. Will all your things fit? I suggest taking oddly shaped things onto the plane with you, meaning, not checking them in a bag. For me, this is mainly art that I don’t want to be squished. Perhaps the shop is able to ship your product home for you. I just went on a wine tour and the tour guide would handle all the wine you purchase and take care of it all for you. THAT’S service right there.

Be practical and very deliberate with your choices and it will all fall into place. If you are shopping for others, keep a list! On longer trips, it can be hard to remember who you’ve already shopped for.

Famous along the Amalfi Coast, Lemoncello is a great souvenir to take back with you when you leave Ischia. The island is also known for its special lemons so it has its own Lemoncello. If you’re at a restaurant and they offer Lemoncello, be sure to ask if it’s from the island! The other ones are good, but you’ll want to be consuming local products while there.

A specialty of the island, Rucolino, made from two different kinds of arugula that are only grown on the islands in the Tyrrhenian Sea (that includes Ischia, of course). Add that, with some citrus, roots, and some secret herbs then let it sit until it’s ready to be filtered and finished off with sugar and water. It’s not my cup of tea, but herby liquors are popular all over Italy, so I’ve tried a few. Remember, always give it a try! Sean loves the stuff, but I’ll stick to Lemoncello 😉

Painted tiles/ceramics

Ceramics are part of the Ischia history. It goes all the way back to when the Greeks lived on the island. In my opinion, if you take one (non-alcoholic) souvenir back with you, it should be some kind of ceramic. Don’t rush. Walk around the different shops and see what you just can’t live without. BUT, I’m the first to say, if you feel like you can leave it behind because you aren’t in love with it, do so. It wasn’t meant to be.

On Ischia, there are wine varieties that you just won’t find anywhere else. Among the many things to do in Ischia, doing a few wine tastings is one of them. Not only do I love the wine tastings, but I also love the challenge of figuring out which wines to buy. We try to get at least one bottle, but if we really can’t decide, we’ll get two…and figure out the suitcase issue later!

Clothes and accessories

If you are a clothes shop-a-holic, get ready because there are some shops that will pull you in and you will want to throw your money at the staff and take all the things. On the road between Ischia Porto and Ischia Ponte are some high-end shops that sell items a bit cheaper than the mainland. We’re still talking a lot of money…but just a little less money.

Because of the thermal waters, skincare has been a popular topic here for many years. It’s no surprise that you’ll find skincare brands using the local resources to create artisanal products. You’ll find skincare shops all over, but a big concentration will be on the same shopping street that I just mentioned, the Via Roma and Corso Vittoria Colonna streets.

Book a transfer to Ischia, Italy

What to eat

Everywhere in the world has a special something you should try while there. Since islands tend to have a long history with multiple cultures, it’s extra fun learning about the foods. Obviously, it’s an Italian island so that’s the strongest food presence, but you might discover some new things as well. Enjoy eating your way around the island!

Ischian Rabbit

If there is one thing to eat when on the island of Ischia, it’s rabbit. This is a dish that is all theirs because it was created at a time when there were too many rabbits on the island. The best way to handle that problem was to eat them. That’s when the Coniglio all’ Ischitana was born. It’s a rabbit stew done in a terracotta pan with wine, herbs, oils, and tomatoes. All the flavors combine to create this iconic Ischian dish.

When in Italy! Gelato here is just as good as on the mainland. If you stay awhile, be sure to try a bunch of gelato shops. There’s just nothing better than walking down the street or sitting by the water with a cone and two scoops of gelato on top. My favorite flavor is stracciatella. It’s milk ice cream flavor with shards of chocolate bits. We’ve actually been where the flavor was created — in a shop in Bergamo, Italy. But I had plenty of samples on Ischia and all are worth a try!

You are right across the water from Naples, so Neapolitan Pizza is everywhere on the island. Pizza joints are pretty cheap, too. I’m a pizza Margherita fan. Keep it simple with fresh ingredients and I’m super happy…especially with a glass of wine.

Traditionally, pasta is good no matter where you go in Italy. This region is known for gnocchi, so if you see it on the menu, get it. I like tomato and cheese version. Another one I’d highly recommend is spaghetti and clams. You’re by the water and the seafood is fresh, so go for it! Or mix it all up and just get a seafood pasta.

I mentioned seafood pasta already, but most kinds of seafood will be good on Ischia. Order a whole fish if that’s what floats your boat. Oh! A seafood risotto would be a perfect treat on a night out. Ask what the fish of the day is, that’s always a good place to start!

Bruschetta with tomatoes or a Caprese salad

I had this so many times on our trip. Tomatoes in this region are so so so so good! Just be sure they are local, they will be the best. While the tomatoes are the star, I highly suggest having them as part of bruschetta or a Caprese salad. Read reviews and ask if the produce is local, then you’ll have the best luck getting the best food.

Caprese cake

From Caprese salad to Caprese cake. I was super confused as well. In Italian, it’s called “Torta Caprese”. Yep, it’s also named after the island of Capri. It’s not a traditional cake, though. It’s made from almonds and chocolate. You just have to try it to understand why it’s so popular. I thought it would be more like a brownie, but it really is somewhere in the middle of a brownie and cake. It should have a sprinkle of powdered sugar on top…but sometimes that just doesn’t happen. Don’t worry, you’ll have a delicious treat either way.

Ricotta and pear tart

I don’t know where this originates, but I do know that we saw it in a few different places and whenever I had it, I was over the moon. Almonds play a part in this dessert as well since they some sprinkle almonds on top and have almond flour inside. Honestly, I’m not a nut fan and I didn’t think I was a Ricotta cheese fan. This tart, though. It is everything. I would eat a whole pie! It’s comforting, fresh, smooth, with a little crunch from the almonds, and all in a lovely pie crust. I will eat this no matter where in the world I am!

Where to eat

This is not an exhaustive list, but it’s a great one to start with. If only we could eat at every restaurant on the island, we would be the happiest of campers! Through our own research, we found a few good spots. Some we just stumbled across, but all are worth a visit. Restaurants on the island tend to open at 7pm or 7:30pm so be prepared for that if you are early-dinner people like us.

Casa Celestino, Sant’Angelo

This is a pricey option, but well worth it for an evening. Make a reservation ahead of time to be able to get a table by the water. Though, it’s amazing even if you don’t! We went twice and everything we had here was incredible. If you’re looking to try the rabbit dish, you can do that here. Either get the whole rabbit with a side tomato salad or get the rabbit pasta. I actually enjoyed the rabbit pasta more than the whole rabbit, but get whatever sounds good! The views at sunset are nothing short of magical.

Marea Restaurant, Sant’Angelo

Another epic spot for sunset with tables by the water, and a perfect place for a romantic dinner. Our meal was seafood with pasta. Sean has linguine with squid and I had pasta with shrimp and lemon (also popular around here). They have spaghetti and clams on the menu and if we went back, I would have eaten that, as well.

Michelin restaurants

While we tend to seek out a Michelin-starred restaurant, we just couldn’t swing it this time. The good news is that there are plenty on this island. If you want to find the perfect restaurant with that coveted star, just check the official website . The map is super handy!

Pizza joints

Our favorites are Da Pasquale Pizzeria Ristorante in Sant’Angelo and Il Pizzicotto in Forio. To save money and eat well, we highly suggest these spots. No reservation needed but you may need to wait a bit. I promise you, it’s worth it. At Da Pasquale, we had the most wonderful lady wait on us. With smiles and limited Italian and English, we got by perfectly. She even gave us the best seat in the house…twice 🙂 Il Pizzicotto is a small place and we got there when they opened. It’s the best way to get a seat at a popular spot.

Ristorante Cantine Pietratorcia

In our research, we found this winery/restaurant that people raved about. But, it feels like it’s in the middle of nowhere. Luckily, a bus stops there and we were able to easily find it. We stayed for a wine flight and some snacks. We didn’t get lunch but only because we had just eaten. A group came in a bit after us and I saw their food…it looked incredible. I’m going to recommend this place even though we get to enjoy lunch because the setting is epic, the meats/cheese/jams we had were all local and delicious, and the wine was perfect. If we go back to the island, we’ll be going here for a full meal. Period.

Porcavacca Ischia Steak House

You may be shaking your head at me, right now. But, you know what? I’m human, I have cravings, and sometimes I just want a good piece of beef. We stumbled upon this place and couldn’t have been happier. It was exactly what I wanted and everything was perfectly seasoned, cooked, and the sauces were just that something extra to put it over the top. Oh, and the wine, muah . Does it HAVE to be on your list? No, but if you are like me and need some non-Italian food every once in a while, it’s worth a stop.

Find your perfect accommodation on Booking.com

What to pack

There are so many beaches on the island, and that’s probably one of the reasons you will be visiting, so don’t forget the suit! I’d actually recommend two so one can dry for a full day. Termes (naturally heated pools) are hugely popular, so you’ll probably visit one or two of those, as well. We have more information on termes and things to do on Ischia .

Prescription or not, have sunglasses. If you have prescription glasses and sunglasses, I highly suggest taking along some contacts as well…just in case they break. I don’t wear contacts often (more like never), but I have them in my toiletry bag in case I have to wear them.

I should say that it’s good sun protection and you should always keep your face covered…which is all true. But really, it’s annoying to walk around shading your eyes all the time. Even with sunglasses, the sun sneaks around them at all angles. The good news is that if you forget yours, they have many for sale all around the island. I gave in and finally bought one.

Do I even need to mention this? I hope not. But what I will mention is that you should take a look and make sure it’s reef safe if you plan on going in the water at all. Think of the safety of yourself and all the sea creatures, too.

Travel towel/sarong

My travel towel was the best investment I made really early on in our travel days when I didn’t even really know I needed it. It’s small and dries pretty quickly. When you try to pack light, a big and fluffy beach towel isn’t ideal. Get a big travel towel so you can still layout on it if you’d like. A sarong is awesome for those quick cover-up moments or just going from the pool to your room. I ate lunch in mine at one of the termes. Check out that video !

Sandals/water shoes

I regret not having water sandals or water shoes. To get to some of the fun local spots, you’ll be walking on big rocks or sand, and you want shoes that are easy to take off/put on that will allow you to do all of that. I suggest anything waterproof that stays on your feet in the water and isn’t slippery.

Where to stay in Ischia

If you are headed to Ischia and staying in a resort and want to spend most of your time there, then it doesn’t matter too much where you go. But if you want to explore by foot a bit, have a grocery shop or restaurants nearby, and be close to beaches, then here are my recommendations.

Yes, there is a part of the island of Ischia that is also called Ischia. Absolutely not confusing at all. Staying between Ischia Porto (where most of the ferries come in) and Ischia Ponte (by the castle) is great if you like liveliness with nightly street strolls (passeggiata), lots of shops and restaurants. Once you get your bus ticket, it’s really easy to get around the whole island from there.

Still want a little bit of a small city vibe with a bunch of beaches? Forio is where to go. Since it’s an island, you are always pretty close to everything. And in Forio, there are a bunch of the smaller buses to get you in the nooks and crannies of the area. That’s a big advantage over Sant’Angelo.

Sant’Angelo

While this is a beautiful area and I highly recommend visiting, I wouldn’t suggest staying for too many days. There’s not a whole lot to do, it’s incredibly hilly, and depending on where you stay, there are only the tiniest of beaches. But, on one side of the big hill, there’s a massive beach and it’s where the warm terme water meets the sea. It’s pretty incredible. Some hotels do offer golf car rides when they are on top of the hill. Sant’Angelo is mostly pedestrian-only (aside from golf carts) so the bus gets you close, but it still takes a lot of walking to get around.

What to expect from Ischia

You go to Ischia if you want a bit of luxury combined with an Italian vibe. There are tons of resorts and some have the best termes on the island, but you can be isolated. If you’re up for a little adventure while still getting partially pampered. Stay at a resort for a couple of days, then stay at a beach-side hotel in an area you can explore on foot.

It’s not a cheap island and getting to and from Naples can be a bit pricey, too. But if you can afford it, I say, go for it! Spend a little extra by getting a transfer to your hotel, then take the bus some days. It’s all about balance if you want a taste of the good life.

English is hit or miss, but Italian, Russian, and German are pretty common. At the resorts, English shouldn’t be a problem. For exploring, get a phrasebook and learn some basics like numbers, tickets, please and thank you…that sort of thing.

I hope you’ve enjoyed this look into Ischia, Italy. If you do end up visiting, please come back and let us know in the comments here, or on our YouTube video .

Wishing you joy and travels!

Hi! I’m Jessica, an American who made Amsterdam her home in 2014. I share European gems through food and memorable experiences. Want to know more? Head to my about page or check out my YouTube channel .

Latest Posts

Amsterdam Guide to Taylor Swift: The Eras Tour

The Best Food & Wine Day Tour from Tbilisi, Georgia

A Guide to Bee Tourism in Egypt

Visiting Cyprus – Off The Beaten Path

Mini guide on German train travel

Free access to the main attractions of Naples and get discounts in the best activities

✅ Free entrance to the main attractions of Naples ✅ Free public transport ✅ Discounts at the best hotels, restaurants and businesses

• The ultimate guide to Ischia: what to see on the island
• Places and Tours

Spas, beaches, rapturous food and wine culture: Ischia is a must-see destination for anyone who wants to visit and experience a Mediterranean dream.

In this guide we will tell you everything you need to know about Ischia , the largest of the Phlegrean islands. Needless to say, it is one of the most important destinations for international tourism, also accomplice to the rich history, art and nature that inhabits this wonderful place. And then there are spas too!

We will also go over how to get to the island, where to stay and how to get around during your stay , as well as, of course, the various tips on what to do and see in Ischia. Ready? Let's get going!

Ischia: the ultimate guide

Ischia has so many places to visit, both naturalistic and cultural , and below in this guide we are going to dissect some of them.

Aragonese Castle

On the island of Ischia you will surely see a majestic fortification dominating the landscape: it is the Aragonese Castle , built on a tidal island of volcanic origin, connected to the mainland by a 220-meter-long stone bridge. This islet, 113 meters high and 56000 square meters wide, is the result of an ancient eruption that created a "stagnation dome," or bubble of solidified magma.

To enter the castle, one must pass through a 400-meter tunnel, dug in the 15th century at the behest of King Alfonso V of Aragon. Before then, the only way to reach the fortress was by sea, with a staircase on the north side of the islet. The tunnel has skylights that were also used to defend against enemy attacks by throwing boiling oil, stones and other objects. After the tunnel, one goes up a mule track to the top of the island, where various paths branch off leading to the various buildings and gardens. Since 1970 there has also been an elevator that goes up to a height of 60 meters, carved into the rock.

The castle houses numerous historic and religious buildings, but most of the islet is covered by ruins, vegetable gardens, vineyards and cliffs. Ischia's Aragonese Castle can of course be visited , complete with tour guides ready to tell you its story.

La Mortella Gardens

La Mortella is the name of the garden that Susana Walton , the Argentine wife of the famous English composer and conductor Sir William Walton , created in Forio d'Ischia, where the couple settled after World War II. In this magical place, Susana Walton collected the most extraordinary plant species from around the world, creating a living work of art that amazes and enchants visitors.

Today La Mortella is managed by a foundation that promotes its conservation and enrichment, also organizing cultural events such as concerts and performances. In the garden one can also visit the museum dedicated to Sir William Walton , where his musical manuscripts are on display.

In the hillside garden one can also visit the Nymphaeum , a memorial dedicated to Susana Walton, where her ashes were laid next to the marble statue of Aphrodite. Taking advantage of the hillside's slope, an outdoor theater was also built that hosts music concerts during the summer and can hold up to 400 people.

The colorful villages of Ischia - The Definitive Guide

Visualizza questo post su Instagram Un post condiviso da Le Monocle Voyageur . (@le_monocle_voyageur)

The beaches of Ischia - Ultimate guide

Ischia is an island, and islands have beaches, right? Ischia's beaches are among the most beautiful and varied in the Mediterranean. There are ones for all tastes and needs, from fine sandy to pebbly, from equipped to wild, from thermal to marine . Here is a brief overview of some of the most beautiful beaches in Ischia:

- Spiaggia dei Pescatori : is a sandy beach located in the municipality of Città d'Ischia, near the port and the village of Ischia Ponte. It offers a breathtaking view of the Aragonese Castle and the islands of Procida and Vivara. It is ideal for families and those seeking convenience and services.

- Scarrupata : is a pebble cove hidden among the rocks in the municipality of Barano d'Ischia. It can be reached on foot through a nature trail or by boat from Maronti beach. It is a wild and unspoiled beach, where you can enjoy the tranquility and crystal clear sea.

- Cava Ruffano : is a pebble beach set in a rocky ridge in the municipality of Serrara Fontana. It can be reached only by boat or by swimming from the nearby beach of Sant'Angelo. It is a picturesque and romantic beach where you can admire the sunset over the sea.

- Citara Beach : is a sandy beach located in the municipality of Forio, before the famous Poseidon thermal park. It has a clear and warm sea, thanks to the thermal springs that feed it. It is a popular beach with all amenities.

The thermal baths of Ischia

Visualizza questo post su Instagram Un post condiviso da Caitlin Palumbo ☼ Travel & Lifestyle (@mydarlingpassport)

We promised you this in the introduction of our guide to discovering Ischia, and here they are. The thermal baths of Ischia are famous for their beneficial and healing properties , thanks to the thermal waters that flow from natural springs. There are many thermal parks and bathing establishments on the island, each with its own features and services.

Ischia is an island full of charming and picturesque villages that overlook the sea or hide among the hills. Here are some of the most beautiful villages to visit:

- Sant'Angelo : is Ischia's most famous and visited fishing village, characterized by white and colorful houses that overlap along a rocky promontory.

- Lacco Ameno : is a village located at the foot of Mount Epomeo, known for the "mushroom," a huge green tufa rock that emerges from the sea near the beach.

- Ischia Ponte and Ischia Porto : these are the two parts of the town of Ischia, the largest and most populous on the island. Ischia Ponte is the ancient area, where you can walk through the narrow streets and admire the Aragonese Castle, a fortress that dominates the panorama. Ischia Porto, on the other hand, is the modern area, where the port, stores and beaches are located

- Casamicciola Terme : is a small village that develops around Piazza Marina, where you can breathe the typical atmosphere of the island. 

- Borgo Campagnano and Piano Liguori: these are two villages surrounded by greenery, offering breathtaking views of the island of Ischia and the sea. Campagnano is famous for its living nativity scene, which involves all the inhabitants during the Christmas season. Piano Liguori is a rural village, particularly recommended if you are looking for a food and wine trip .

How to get to Ischia

To reach Ischia you must first get to Naples (by car, train or plane). From Naples you have two options: take a hydrofoil or a ferry . The choice depends partly on your needs, but also on your budget. 

Hydrofoils leave from Molo Beverello or Mergellina and take about 40 minutes to get to Ischia. They are faster and more expensive than ferries, but they do not allow cars (but you can rent one on the island).

Ferries leave from Porta di Massa or Pozzuoli, and take about an hour to an hour and a half to get to Ischia. They are slower and cheaper than hydrofoils and also carry cars. 

Connections between Naples and Ischia are frequent and daily , but they intensify in the summer. The season also means major price changes, so we recommend that you check prices and schedules on the websites of the various shipping companies .

Because of the speed with which it is reached, if you don't have much time and you are on vacation in Naples, you can even consider a quick day tour of Ischia . You will not regret it.

Where to stay in Ischia - The ultimate guide

Ischia provides a wide range of accommodations for all tastes , needs and pockets. You can choose from hotels of various categories, apartments, villas, bed and breakfasts or farmhouses. 

For a complete list of solutions, also according to your budget and needs, we refer you to the booking.com search, which aggregates several interesting solutions. Also watch out for mid-season offers!

How to get around Ischia

Ischia is a fairly large island (46 square kilometers) and has a pretty   good public transportation network . You can use buses, which cover all the main areas of the island, or cabs, which are more convenient but also more expensive. 

If you prefer the freedom to move as you please, you can rent a car, motorcycle or scooter . Alternatively, you can explore the island on foot or by bicycle, following the many trails that crisscross the island.

We recommend

Subscribe to our weekly Newsletter dedicated to the Italian culture, art and traditions.

You are about to get your dose of inspiration!

Check your email to confirm your subscription and receive special offers, if you do not receive the e-mail, check the spam box.

Ischia Travel Guide

• September 16, 2019

Much has been said about Ischia in the past few years, thanks in part to the HBO-RAI adaptation of Elena Ferrante’s  My Brilliant Friend  and the reopening of the famed Mezzatorre Hotel. The largest island in the Gulf of Naples , Ischia has long been overshadowed by the allure of Capri and the Amalfi Coast but the “Green Island” is finally stepping into its own.

There are a lot of things to love about Ischia, including its mineral-rich wines, long stretches of sandy beaches, thermal baths and excellent, affordable cuisine. The island is lush, wild and still remains refreshingly local – it’s not polished as Capri and therein lies its charm. Ischia is densely populated, and inhabited year-round, so it has a lot to offer in every season. The secret about Ischia is out but there are plenty of hidden gems left to discover on the island.

Castello Aragonese

The impressive Castello Aragonese, built in 474 BC by Hiero I of Syracuse, is the island’s most iconic landmark but the rocky islet is home to more than just a castle. A whole  borgo  exists within the fortification and you can visit ruins of a cathedral, panoramic terraces and numerous churches. The Castello is also the setting for  Albergo Il Monastero , a discrete hotel built within a 16 th  century monastery.

La Cantinola di Zio Jack

Set high up in the hills above Forio,  La Cantinola di Zio Jack  is an unlikely place for dinner but makes for one of the most memorable meals on the island. Part of the beauty is in the arrival: the trattoria is located up steep, winding country roads that can only accommodate a tiny ape car, so you need to book ahead to arrange the shuttle service.

Once you’ve arrived, you’re greeted by a canopy decked with lights and a view of Ischia’s coastline off in the distance (time your reservation so you can catch the sunset). La Cantinola di Zio Jack serves excellent interpretations of Campania’s best comfort food: you’ll find dishes like patate e provola served in a pizza bread bowl, eggplant parmesan, Ischia-style rabbit and pizza.

Club Scannella

La Scannella  is another destination that is worth your while. Set within Ischia’s rocky coastline, this idyllic beach club has awe-inspiring views of the sea but can only be reached by walking down hundreds of steep steps or via boat from nearby Sant’Angelo. Its remote location, though, is its greatest asset: with no phone reception down by the water and an enforced silent bathing area, the only sounds you can hear are the waves lapping at the rocks below and seagulls flying overhead.

La Scannella has two cold salt-water pools, a heated swimming pool and easy access to the sea – and the protected cove is a perfect place for snorkeling. It also has 20 bright rooms that look out onto the sea and an all-day restaurant specialized in local cuisine. The menu is extensive, with plenty of fresh fish dishes, a wide array of salads and tantalizing pastas – classic and non. I opted for the paccheri con zucchine which came served in the pan, much to my delight: the pasta was sautéed with an egg, cheese, pepper and a splash of fragrant white wine for an unusual twist.

Casa d’Ambra

Ischia isn’t well-known as a wine destination outside of Italy, but it will surely receive international acclaim soon. That’s because the island is home to hundreds of vineyards that grow quality indigenous varietals, including Biancolella and Forastera white grapes and Guarnaccia and Per’e’ Palummo ( Piedirosso ) red grapes. Ischia has excellent conditions for viticulture, including a mild climate, volcanic soil and mountainous terrain, and has been producing wine for thousands of years.

While you’re here, don’t miss the chance to visit  Casa d’Ambra , Ischia’s most scenic winery with sweeping views of the sea and the fishing town of Sant’Angelo down below. The winery dates back to 1888 and grows its prized Biancolella grapes, used for its Frassitelli label, at 600 meters above sea level on the slopes of Monte Epomeo, the highest point on the island. The winery is managed by Andrea D’Ambra and his two daughters, Marina and Sara, who lead tours and tastings of Casa d’Ambra’s 10 labels.

Gardenia Mare

Set within a tranquil bay that looks out onto the Castello Aragonese,  Gardenia Mare  is one of Ischia’s most picturesque beach clubs. It’s a great place for sunbathing, swimming and even snorkeling, with ancient Roman ruins beneath the water and medieval remains in plain sight. Call to book a lounger ahead of time and then arrive by hailing a taxi boat near Ischia Ponte.

Gardenia Mare also has two excellent restaurants: a more casual beach bar, with simple pastas and salads, and a gourmet restaurant overlooking the sea. Try the tasting menu or order à la carte and be prepared to enjoy the catch of the day, including dishes like spaghetti with clams or tuna carpaccio with strawberries. The gourmet restaurant is also open for dinner and makes for a truly romantic evening.

With hundreds of natural thermal springs, most travelers sail to Ischia for a dip in its sulfuric, healing waters which are thought to provide relief from respiratory diseases, rheumatism and dermatitis. While some hotels have spas, the locals head to  Negombo , a thermal park and lush garden that features contemporary art by Italian sculptors.

This wellness oasis has 12 thermal and marine pools with temperatures ranging from 65° to 100° Fahrenheit as well as a hammam, jacuzzi and access to a fine sandy beach. Special features include the “Templars” showers, designed to relieve tension in the neck and shoulders, and the Kneipp pool and Japanese labyrinth, which alternate hot and cold water to help detox the body. Spa treatments are available onsite along with numerous eateries, including a healthy bar, a casual trattoria and the upscale Al FuGà restaurant.

Fonte di Nitrodi

Reputed to be the oldest spa in the world,  Fonte delle Ninfe Nitrodi  was the site of a devotional center honoring Apollo and the nymphs, lending it its name. You can see still ancient votives on display in the park and it’s well worth a visit in Ischia for its beautiful setting and a truly magical atmosphere. Fonte di Nitrodi is spiritually charged, as wellness seekers have made journeys there for hundreds of years. It’s a place to completely reset and give your skin the love it deserves.

The thermal water has been studied for decades and is beneficial for skin-related illnesses, including psoriasis and acne, as well as gastric disturbances including ulcers, stomach inflammations and heartburn. There are four terraces where you can sunbathe in between rejuvenating showers from the therapeutic springs and showers. You can also enjoy the water’s miraculous properties in the  Ischia SPAEH  line developed for the park.

In this article:

Post written by: Livia Hengel

Leave a reply cancel reply, you may also like.

A Local’s Guide To Ponza: Italy’s Secret Island

An Insider’s Guide To Taormina, Sicily

Where To Go Wine Tasting On The Amalfi Coast