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Visiting Albania

The complete guide to visiting albania.

Welcome to Albania, where ancient history intertwines with breathtaking landscapes, creating a tapestry of discovery for every traveler. Our website is your key to unlocking the hidden treasures of this Balkan jewel, offering curated lists of natural wonders, archaeological marvels, enticing restaurants, and essential transport insights. Immerse yourself in the turquoise embrace of the Albanian Riviera or explore the rugged charm of the Accursed Mountains.

Delve into the mysteries of the past at sites like Butrint and Gjirokastër, showcasing the rich history that shaped this enchanting country. Discover the vibrant culinary scene in local restaurants and navigate Albania’s beauty seamlessly with our transportation guide. Let us be your virtual guide, ensuring that your journey through Albania is filled with awe, discovery, and the unique charm that defines this remarkable destination.

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Through Time

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22 Travel Tips for Albania: Useful Things to Know Before You Go

My top travel tips for Albania to save you money, time and stress. Read this before you go travelling in Albania.

When I embarked on my 6-month overland journey through the Balkan countries, Albania was definitely the country I was most nervous about visiting.

I had read all about the rugged beaches , high mountains and historic towns and castles – so I had no trouble deciding where to go and what to do . But the people, the culture, the food and all the practical details such as transportation, WIFI and accommodation – well, I had absolutely no clue what to expect.

On the ground, I discovered that most negative stereotypes about the country are untrue. In my experience Albania is safe, affordable, friendly, diverse, tolerant and above all else, incredibly beautiful .

At the same time, I learned that Albania does present some particular challenges , even for those well-practiced at travelling in the region.

Without spoiling any of the country’s special secrets or revealing too many of the quirky things about Albania that are fun to figure out as you go, I want to share a couple of things that will make your travel experience smoother and more fulfilling.

Here are 22 practical travel tips for Albania that I think every traveller should know.

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What is travelling in Albania really like? 22 useful travel tips for Albania

Albania is quite unlike any of its neighbours.

It’s tempting to think of the Balkans (particularly the western Balkans) as a monolith. But I don’t need to tell you that every country is its own entity. Within this tapestry, Albania is perhaps the most distinct nation in terms of both its culture and history.

An obvious example: The Albanian language, Shqip , is unlike anything else spoken in the region (or anywhere else in the world for that matter). It’s thought to be descended from an extinct Illyrian tongue, but its exact origins are still a mystery to linguists.

After months of being able to follow the rough contours of a shared speech in Croatia, Montenegro and Bosnia and Herzegovina , hearing the curious chatter of Albanian on the streets of Tirana was quite a contrast.

Albania’s cultural and religious traditions are also very distinct. And although you can find local variations of cevapi and burek, the cuisine is totally different too!

With the exception of Kosovo where almost 93% of the population are ethnically Albanian, it’s hard to draw a comparison between Albania and any of its neighbours. In many ways Albania feels more like Georgia – slightly chaotic but imminently beautiful, with the furgon the local equivalent of the marshrutka.

Learn a bit about the history before you go

Of course this runs much deeper than just food and minivans. Albania wasn’t part of Yugoslavia and doesn’t have the same ‘baggage’ as its northern neighbours. That’s not to say the nation wasn’t impacted by the Balkan Wars and genocide – it certainly was – but in a different way. No fighting took place on Albanian soil.

Instead, Albania was subjected to its own private horrors, namely 45 years under an oppressive political regime including 30 years with despotic communist dictator, Enver Hoxha, at the helm. Hoxha’s ideology was so hardline, he viewed Yugoslavia and the USSR as too lax. It’s very difficult for an outsider to try and comprehend how this period of history impacted Albania and its people. But I felt compelled to at least try.

One of the most interesting things I found is that Albanians embrace their whole history – the good and the bad. The communist regime only fell in the 1990s so for the majority of the population, it’s not a distant memory but something that’s still very fresh. But it’s never glossed over. Most people we met were happy to chat politics and share their experiences.

For example: There are 173,000 disused nuclear bunkers sprinkled around Albania, each a monument to Hoxha’s paranoia. Instead of destroying them, people decided to either leave them be or repurpose them as museums or galleries. (Now there’s even a Cold War military base that’s being rebranded as an island destination .) Tirana’s collection of Communist-era statues and busts are displayed in a courtyard behind the National Art Gallery. And Blloku, once an exclusive neighbourhood where the party members lived, has been reclaimed as a vibrant cafe and street art district. Even Hoxha’s old house is still standing.

Some might think of Albania as a dark tourism destination. To me, this is a nation of light and colour. While visitors have an obligation to familiarise themselves with the nation’s recent history, it’s important to do so in a respectful, thoughtful way. The Bunk’Art museums in Tirana are a great place to start and will enrich your experience immensely. 

Communist-era statues behind the National Art Gallery in Tirana.

The man atop the horse is General Skanderbeg

On a lighter note, here’s a bit of trivia for you. If Hoxha is Albania’s villain, then the nation’s hero is definitely Gjergj Kastrioti Skënderbeu, AKA General Skanderbeg. 

It took me far too long to learn who Skanderbeg is and why he’s so beloved in this part of the world. As I travelled around the Balkans, I kept seeing the same statue of a warrior – including in squares in Skopje and Prishtina – and started referring to him simply as ‘the man atop the horse’. It wasn’t until I got to Albania that I was finally able to put a name to the face.

Skanderbeg was an Albanian military commander who lived during the early 15th century. He’s famous for leading a campaign against the Ottomans which freed Albania and several neighbouring countries from being vassal states. His penultimate battle was launched from the town of Kruja north of Tirana, now the location of Skanderbeg’s castle-museum. It’s a popular day trip and the place to go if you want to learn more about this chapter of history.

The only other person held in similar esteem is Albania’s heroine, Anjezë Gonxhe Bojaxhiu, AKA Mother Teresa. Born to Albanian Kosovar parents in Skopje – then part of the Ottoman Empire and now the capital of North Macedonia – she’s beloved in all three countries (though each claims her as their own!).

Albania is overwhelmingly a safe country for tourists

One of the biggest misconceptions about Albania is that it’s unsafe for tourists. In reality, foreigners are very rarely the target of violent crime, and although pickpocketing and scams do happen, they’re not as widespread as in other countries in Europe.

Generally speaking, Albania is overwhelmingly safe for travellers of all types (including solo females) provided you exercise common sense and caution.

My one negative experience in Albania was being fleeced by a taxi driver in Gjirokaster . It was my mistake for not doing my research – I was unfamiliar with the location and agreed to a price without understanding just how short the distance to my hotel was. To avoid misunderstandings within the cities, it’s best to download a taxi app .

The biggest thing to watch out for in Albania is road safety. (Here we find another similarity to Georgia: The driving style.) More on that later.

As a side note: It’s not advisable to drink the tap water in Tirana or other cities/towns.

Avoid visiting in July or August

The best time to visit Albania in my opinion is any time except summer. I travelled during June. As the month went on and my trip was coming to an end, I found most places were getting a little too warm and dry – and much too crowded – for my liking.

Albania has a Mediterranean climate, thus winters are mild but wet. The best time to visit Albania is shoulder season (late March to early June or September through October) when the weather is pleasant both on the coast and in the mountains.

July and August are hot and busy, especially on the riviera, and should be avoided. That’s unless you plan to stick to the mountains, in which case summer is the best time for trekking.

A blue rock pool in Albania.

Consider flying into a neighbouring country

Most people arrive in Albania via the country’s main international airport, Tirana Airport Nënë Tereza. This makes sense if your itinerary starts in the capital or in the northern part of the country.

A second international airport opened in July 2021 in Kukës (KFZ), 150km north-east of Tirana (and just 45-minutes from Prizren in Kosovo ). It’s a suitable starting point for the Albanian Alps, but international arrivals are so far limited to flights from Zurich and Istanbul.

If you’re travelling around the south of Albania, it might be more convenient (and more affordable) to fly into a neighbouring country instead. Corfu International Airport in Greece is a short ferry ride from Saranda, for example, and a logical place to arrive/depart if you’re mainly focusing on the Albanian Riviera.

Also read: My top tips for visiting Montenegro .

Lek is the official currency, but Euros are widely accepted

The official currency in Albania is the lek. Although Albania is not part of the EU, the Euro is widely used as well.

Lek is common currency in convenience shops, at restaurants and among taxi drivers – i.e. for small purchases. You’ll find that most hotels and guesthouses list their prices in Euro, and it usually works out far better to pay for big-ticket items such as hotel bills and rental cars in Euro rather than lek. If you try to pay in lek, you risk losing a big chunk of cash due to the conversion rate.

At the time of writing, 1 Euro is equivalent to 121.5 LEK.

Always have cash on you

Albania is very much a cash society so you need to make sure you have plenty of bills on you at all times. You can get by in Tirana using card only, but outside the capital, cash is still king.

Lek is a closed currency so you’ll have to wait until you arrive in-country to get your hands on some. Remember that lek is only good for small purchases and meals, so only withdraw as much as you need.

ATMs are easy to find in Albania (even in rural areas). Most banks charge a 300-700 lek withdrawal fee, but Credins Bank and Alpha Bank are among those that are fee-free (at the time of writing). Remember to check for any extra charges issued by your home bank.

A woman stands in front of a market shop in Gjirokaster, Albania.

Albania is extremely affordable – even by Balkans standards

Accommodation, restaurants and activities in Albania are all extremely good value for money. We easily got by on 40 USD per person per day – and you could spend a lot less by taking advantage of the hostel scene and sticking to free activities. One of our biggest expenses was museum tickets, something we don’t tend to skimp on.

A generous meal in a restaurant in Albania might cost you 500-1000 lek per person, while cheap snacks such as burek are perfect for breakfast and will only set you back around 100 lek.

Expect to pay 1,600 lek for a local sim card with data, around 200 lek for a cup of coffee, and anywhere from 400-1,000 lek on average for an intercity bus fare.

Buy a sim card when you arrive

Majority of hotels, bars and restaurants in Albania have WIFI, while many beaches and archaeological sites are now serviced by a free public network. Still, if you want unfettered access to the internet for things like booking taxis and navigation, you will need a sim card.

ALBtelecom is the preferred mobile provider in Albania. It’s very easy to buy and register a sim card at one of their shops in Tirana using your passport/ID card. A sim card and internet package (20 GB with 30 days validity) will set you back 1,600 lek.

While coverage in Tirana is good enough to support a burgeoning digital nomad community, reception is still fairly limited in remote areas and non-existent in the mountains.

Don’t put your faith in Google Maps

If you’re getting around Albania with public transport and only using Google Maps for general navigation within the cities, then you have nothing to worry about. But if you’re driving in Albania and using Google Maps to plan your road trip route , you need to watch out for a couple of things.

It seems Google Maps hasn’t quite been able to keep pace with Albania’s rapid infrastructure developments. Missing roads and non-existent turn offs are common encounters, and you’ll find you’re constantly being forced to re-route. Take directions with a grain of salt and always budget extra time to account for detours.

The same goes for finding addresses – street names and house numbers often don’t correspond to what’s on the map. Even major landmarks are sometimes pinned in the wrong spot.

Aerial view of Tirana, Albania.

Furgons are your friends

Albania has a limited railway network connecting Tirana with Shkoder in the north, Durres and Vlore on the coast, and Pogradec on Lake Ohrid in the east. Domestic flights are now available from Tirana to Kukës, and flying can certainly save you time getting from the capital to the far-north.

Travelling around the centre and south of Albania, you’ll be relying on road transport. Renting a car is a great option if you’re a confident driver. Otherwise, furgons are your friends.

Furgons are intercity minivans similar to marshrutka vans used throughout the former Soviet countries . They run on a flexible schedule, stop on demand, and are extremely budget-friendly. The downsides: Road safety is not exactly a priority, luggage space (and legroom) is very limited, and you can forget about AC. Furgons depart when full so it’s important to always arrive at the bus station well ahead of schedule.

An upgrade on the furgon is the coach bus. You’ll find large air conditioned coaches running on most popular routes during the warmer months, including between Tirana and Berat , Kruje, Gjirokaster, Korca , Durres, etc.

Gjirafa Travel is a terrific website for checking bus schedules and timetables online in English. Whenever possible, I recommend cross-checking times locally at the station.

Speaking of bus stations – there are multiple bus terminals in Tirana and trying to figure out which one you need can be extremely confusing! Pogradec and Shkoder have their own stations, while other buses depart from the Regional Bus Terminal – North and South Albania.

Take extra care on the roads

Albanians have a reputation for their maniacal driving style and for flouting the rules of the road. Combined with poor road conditions in many parts of the country (although the major highways are in good nick) and the proliferation of old and worn-down cars on the road, it’s a recipe for disaster.

Be careful when crossing the road, especially in the city. Take precautions whenever you travel by road, and only hire a car if you’re very confident. Try to avoid being out on the road after dark, and never get into a car with someone who’s been drinking. I also recommend capping your road journeys to a couple of hours per leg.

Albanian cuisine is a revelation

Albania is not exactly known as a foodie destination , but it should be. Regional cuisine, traditional Albanian dishes and the country’s super-popular farm-to-table fresh food movement all combine to create a fascinating culinary scene.

Albanian food is so diverse, you can find something new to try every day. I was quite satisfied eating only Albanian food for the entire duration of my stay. I found Albanian food fresher and less meat-oriented than in some other countries in the region. Most restaurants have plenty of vegetarian options.

Northern, central and southern Albania all have their separate culinary traditions , and within that towns and villages have their own specialties. Balkan, Italian, Turkish, Greek and even ancient Roman influences can all be identified, while you’ll find many similarities to other Mediterranean cuisines (especially Greek and Italian).

Seafood reigns supreme on the coast, while in the south, food choices reflect the pastoral landscape: Dairy, citrus and olive oil are all prominent. Garlic and onions are ubiquitous.

Some of my favourite Albanian dishes include: Tavë Kosi , a meal of lamb, eggs and yogurt traditional to Elbasan; Gjirokaster qifqi (arancini-like rice balls flavoured with mint and black pepper); ‘Berati schnitzel’ (pork stuffed with hard cheese) and pispili (spinach pie with a cornbread base), both traditional to Berat; and Korca’s famous savory lakror pie.

Fresh Albanian food on a restaurant table in Berat.

Watch out for raki

One thing Albania does have in common with its Balkan compatriots is the proclivity for alcohol. Sipping spirits in particular is a huge part of the culture.

The drink of choice in Albania is raki or rakia , a potent clear spirit distilled from grapes. Commercial versions are up to 45% proof, but homemade raki is much, much stronger. If you’re at a small restaurant or guesthouse and a recycled plastic soft drink bottle comes out, brace yourself.

It can be difficult to get out of these drinking sessions. I found it much easier to decline as a woman. Remember you can always step away if you feel uncomfortable. Otherwise, take small sips and make sure there’s always something left in your glass to avoid unwanted top ups!

Raki isn’t all bad. In Northern Albania in particular you’ll find lovely varieties of fruit raki made from cherries.

Every day ends with a xhiro

The xhiro is an Albanian tradition and the perfect way to put a full-stop on your day. Essentially a xhiro is a sunset stroll: It involves heading to the nearest pedestrian street and walking laps.

For locals, it’s a way to catch up with friends and neighbours, learn the latest goss and socialise. Ice cream stalls and popcorn vendors set up to cater to walkers, and sometimes entire streets close to traffic for a couple of hours to accommodate people.

This is the ultimate people-watching activity and a terrific opportunity to mix and mingle. But don’t be surprised if people let their glance linger a little bit too long – staring is not considered impolite in Albania, neither whilst out on a xhiro or in everyday life (at restaurants, at the supermarket – I’ve experienced it all). It can be awkward but try not to take it personally – in most cases, people are just curious.

An old man with a cane walks down a path in the city of Korca, Albania.

Albanian people are incredibly hospitable

Hospitality is serious business in Albania (yet another point of similarity to Georgia). In Albania, people are bound by Besa , a code of honour that dictates how others – especially strangers – should be treated. According to Besa, if someone approaches you for help, you accommodate them. If someone comes to you hungry, you feed them. This creed has shaped Albania into an immensely tolerant and welcoming nation.

After WWII, Albania was one of the few nations to emerge with a larger Jewish community – the nation protected its own and offered sanctuary to families fleeing from elsewhere in Europe. In the 1990s, Albania sheltered refugees from Kosovo displaced by conflict.

Today that same kind of generosity is extended to tourists. Kanun , the customary law of Albania, says that the master of a house should always have a spare bed ready for unexpected guests. While I wouldn’t recommend showing up on someone’s doorstep unannounced (Albania has Booking.com for a reason!), the takeaway is that Albanians will extend you a helping hand if and when you need it.

English is widely spoken, but not ubiquitous

Albanian is the official language in Albania but many people – especially those born after the fall of communism – speak a second language. As one person described it to me, Albanians are ‘thirsty to know the world’, and learning a foreign language is seen as a pathway to knowledge, experience and more opportunities.

English is the most popular second language and is taught in schools. At last count, around 40% of Albanians speak English. In my experience, anyone working in tourism or hospitality has at least a basic understanding of English. We got by in all the major cities and tourist destinations without any issues.

Albania is one of those countries where the language is so much more than a means of communication, it’s part of the culture and identity and a massive source of national pride. Learning a few words of Albanian will earn you big props.

Here are a few basic words:

  • Hello – Përshëndetje (per-shen-det-ye)
  • Bye – Mirupafshim (mi-ru-paf-shim)
  • Yes – Po (po)
  • No – Jo (yo)
  • Thanks – Faleminderit (fal-e-min-der-it)
  • Cheers – Gëzuar (ge-zu-ar)

There is a strong Italian and Greek influence

Albania is just across the pond from Italy and very close to Greece (especially Corfu). There were Italian colonists in Albania from 1926 onwards, and the country was actually invaded by Italy in 1939. Italy especially has a big influence in Albania – to such an extent that I noticed it right away.

You’ll see Italian cars, Italian coffee culture – and yes, pizza on almost every restaurant menu! Pizza is so popular in Albania, if you ever tire of local fare there’s always a Napoletana to fall back on.

Almost a third of Albanian people speak Italian and a quarter of the population speaks Greek. Many areas are officially bilingual Albanian-Italian, with road signs in both languages. If you know either of these languages, communication will come even easier to you.

Three men sip coffee at a cafe in Gjirokaster Bazaar.

Tirana is one of the coolest cities in Europe – so don’t rush it!

Unlike a few other capital cities in the Balkans that are all cold concrete, Tirana is a warm, green, welcoming city that’s bristling with creative energy. I’ve said before that it’s probably the most liveable capital in the region in my opinion. There’s a park, dining precinct, cool museum or street art district around almost every corner.

One day in Tirana is enough for the must-sees, but I really recommend slowing down and spending a couple of nights here, getting into the rhythm of the city with morning markets and nightly xhiros.

We stayed in Tirana for a full week and still didn’t see everything.

Hiking in Albania is a must

I fell in love with Albania’s cities and towns, but even I agree that the country’s natural beauty is its biggest asset.

Albania has 15 national parks, each offering incredible scenery and hiking opportunities. As I recently discovered, Albania has more than 3,200 species of plants, accounting for a whopping 30% of the flora in Europe. One of the best places to appreciate this ecology is Llogara National Park, known for its wildflowers. Others, notably Butrint National Park, combine surreal landscapes with valuable archaeological sites.

Even if you’re an anti-hiker like me, there is one day trek in Albania you at least have to consider: Valbona to Theth . Walking between two alpine villages across two jaw-dropping national parks in the country’s far north, the trail takes you through the heart of the picturesque Albanian Alps or Accursed Mountains as they’re also known. The hike is tough going in spots, but it’s absolutely the best way to experience this side of Albania.

Craggy mountain peaks in the Albanian Alps.

The lakes are just as impressive as the beaches

Albania might be famous for its beautiful beaches, but the unsung heroes of the landscape are the country’s lakes. Komani Lake, Lake Ohrid (shared with North Macedonia) and Skadar Lake in the north (shared with Montenegro ) are all beautiful and worth visiting.

Skadar is the largest lake in the Balkans. Boat trips on the marshy wetlands are popular on the Montenegrin side; on the Albanian side, you can cycle around the periphery from the lakeside city of Shkoder, visiting Rozafa Castle at the same time.

Albania’s share of Ohrid Lake is similarly smaller and with fewer points of interest to the North Macedonian side, yet charming villages such as Lin – a little red-roofed settlement on a natural peninsula – make it worth a visit. Lake Koman is my favourite. The ferry ride through the dramatic river gorge to reach Valbona and the starting point for the aforementioned hike was one of the highlights of my time in Albania.

There are more stunning water features around the country, including cascades and river canyons in the centre (Osumi and Begove near Berat are great), hot springs, and of course the famous Blue Eyes. All offer some much-needed reprieve in the hot summer months.

Have you been to Albania? Are there any extra travel tips for Albania you’d like to add? Leave your best advice in the comments below!

Stone buildings in Gjirokaster Old Bazaar, Albania.

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The 9 best places to visit in Albania

Anita Hendrieka

Nov 18, 2023 • 7 min read

Rear view of man crossing bridge, Accursed mountains, Theth, Shkoder, Albania, Europe

A hike to the Theth Waterfall can be combined with the trail to the Blue Eye © Ben Pipe Photography / Getty Images

Albania is slowly becoming the jewel of the Balkans due to its sparkling crystal waters, impressive mountains and affordability for all types of travelers. Come with an open mind and a rough plan, and be ready to be submerged in a rich culture like no other in Europe.

If you’re planning a trip to this magnificent destination and are looking for the most beautiful places to visit but have no idea where to go in Albania , we’ve got you covered.   

Thinking of going to Albania for the first time? Read our First time guide to Albania to start planning

Descending from the Qafae Pëjes pass towards the village of Theth, Albania

1. The village of Theth

Best place for hiking and adventure lovers

Theth might just be the most peaceful place to visit in Albania. This small village nestled in between the Albanian Alps is perfect if you’re looking for the best hiking in the country and dramatic landscapes to enjoy.

There are two hikes you must do while visiting Theth . The first is the hike to the Blue Eye , which leads you through a forest, over rivers and finally to a vibrant blue natural spring. This hike is easy to moderate and perfect if you’re not an experienced hiker.

The second is one of the most popular in the country and one of the most beautiful: the Theth to Valbona  hike. This trail starts from the top of Theth village, near Guest House Gjelaj, and it leads you through the Albanian Alps to breathtaking views at the top. It’s not for the faint-hearted, as it will take roughly six to eight hours to complete – but you will be glad you did it!  

Planning tip: Make sure you bring cash with you, as ATMs can be hard to come by, and almost everything will need to be paid for in cash.

Old houses and orthodox church in the old city of Korce

Prettiest place in Albania

When you visit Korce, make sure to stroll through the Pazari i Vjeter , which is the old bazaar of the city. Here, you can admire the bazaar’s 13th-century style in the form of old cobbled streets and Ottoman-style architecture.  

When you visit this area, be sure to pop into The Kooperativa, a communist-themed cafe that gives you a glimpse of Albania’s communist history from 1944 until 1991. 

Try the traditional alcoholic drink called raki, made from distilled grapes and very popular in Albania. You might even catch someone having a glass of raki with their morning espresso!

Streets of Old Town Gjirokaster, Albania

3. Gjirokastra

Best city for Albanian traditions

Known as the city of stone, Gjirokastra is a UNESCO city in the south of Albania. It was the birthplace of the former communist dictator, Enver Hoxha. 

One of the best things to do here, apart from walking the bazaar and visiting the castle of Gjirokastra, is to wander around  Zekat e House .  This traditional family home was built between 1811-1812 and is a beautiful example of some of the most fascinating Albanian home and marriage traditions. When you visit, one of the family members will show you around and explain the different rooms and their purposes.

If you love wine and want a foodie experience, then you need to take a trip to Te Fucite  (The Barrels). This family restaurant and winery specializing in smooth handmade wine offers platters of local cuisine for you to try while overlooking their vineyard and the surrounding mountains.

Planning tip: Try the dish called pasha qofte , which is essentially a cream soup made from milk with small meatballs inside. It’s a delicious dish you can only find in Gjirokastër.

People enjoy time on the beach, play snooker or having good food in the reataurant

Best place to go for beaches  

If you’re looking for a destination where you can lay about, get a sun tan and enjoy a dip in the sea, then you need to visit Dhermi . It’s one of the pearls of the Albanian Riviera and home to many summer music festivals, including the Kala festival and ION festival .

With idyllic beaches, trendy beach bars and views that might make you never want to leave, Dhermi is a hotspot for younger generations looking for the hottest parties and the best vibes of the summer. 

Try Restaurant Luciano for delicious food overlooking the water, or head to Alevra restaurant and beach bar to try some mouthwatering seafood with a twist.

Dreaming of Albanian beaches? Our experts rounded up the best on the Albanian Riviera

Planning tip: Make sure you book well in advance if you’re visiting in July and August, as hotels can be booked out due to the festivals mentioned above.

5. P ë rmet

Best for white-water rafting and mountain biking

On a bend in the fast-flowing turquoise Vjosa river, about 32km (20 miles) from Greece where the river springs, is the hub town of Përmet. From here you can organize adventure activities from white-water rafting to camping, hiking and mountain bike riding in the region. Once an Ottoman-era commercial center, Përmet is "one of the greenest and cleanest parts of the country" today. The Vjosa River was recently designated as a wild river national park , Europe's first. 

Detour :  A 29km (18-mile) taxi or bus ride away is the Bënjë thermal baths next to an Ottoman-era bridge on the Lengarica River (a tributary of the Vjosa). In summer, you can pick up supplies from small vendors here; in the off-season, bring your own food and drinks. 

Best northern city in Albania

The city of Shkodra  is a breath of fresh air and is unlike any other city in Albania. When you arrive, you’ll notice most of the population peddling around the city by bike. While you’re there, do as the locals do and hire a bicycle for the day. Then head down to Liqeni i Shkodrës to enjoy the beautiful lake views. 

While you’re in the area, make sure you visit Rozafa Castle and ask one of the guides about the legend of Rozafa. Also, when you reach the top, you’ll experience a magnificent 360-degree view.

Planning tip: If you would like to do the Theth to Valbona hike and don’t fancy taking your luggage with you, a popular option is to leave your bags in Shkodra at your accommodation. Shkodra is a great city to base yourself in, as transfers will leave from there to take you to either Theth or Valbona.

Most peaceful village in Albania

Lin is a quiet village positioned on Lake Ohrid, which means there is excellent fishing here. If you’re looking for a lake getaway and craving silence and tranquility, this is a perfect choice. 

One of the best things to do is walk to the archaeological site on the hilltop, where you’ll get to see the well-preserved mosaics of a Paleo-Christian church built in the 6th century. If you visit in the summertime, the mosaics will be uncovered, and there should be a guide who can tell you all about their history.

You also get an incredible view from the top of Lin and can see North Macedonia as you look over Lake Ohrid.

A boy jumps off a pier into the Mediterranean Sea in Sarande (Saranda), Albania

Most visited place in Albania during summer

Saranda is the southern gateway to the Albanian Riviera and one of the best cities to visit, not least because it’s close to one of the region's best beaches, Ksamil Beach. 

Get a hotel in Saranda, where you’ll be close to some of the best restaurants in Albania and the city’s buzzing nightlife. Then explore the beaches of Saranda and Ksamil during the day.

One of the best things to do from Saranda is to hop on one of the day trip boat tours that leave from the boulevard and go to the beaches of Kakome and Krorez. Tickets start from €30.

Planning tip: The best time to visit Saranda is in May, June or September when the crowds are not crazy but the beach bars and restaurants are open. As this is a summer destination, most businesses close during the off-season.

Fishing boats in the harbor of Porto Palermo

9. Porto Palermo

Most underrated Albania Riviera destination

The triangle-shaped castle is a great reason to stop at Porto Palermo castle, as are the beautiful, unspoiled and peaceful beaches you'll find here – making for an excellent camping spot along the Albanian Riviera coast. 

You can also rent a kayak and paddle along the beaches and quiet bays. As you kayak, you’ll see the old military submarine bunker situated on the hill not far from the main beaches of Porto Palermo. 

Porto Palermo is filled with history and spectacular swimming bays and has a peaceful positioning along the Riviera.

This article was first published Oct 3, 2022 and updated Nov 18, 2023.

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Exploring Albania, Europe’s Hidden Gem in the Balkans

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Year after year, Europe is on the minds of countless travelers, from postgrad backpackers to culturally curious retirees to families on summer vacation. One country, however, remains under the radar despite occupying prime real estate in the Mediterranean: Albania . Located north of Greece and south of Montenegro, this majority-Muslim nation in the Balkans boasts age-old traditions, a charming coastline, and a cuisine driven by locally sourced ingredients.

Then there’s the ancient code of honor, besa , translating to the kind of hospitality that can restore one’s faith in humanity. And because Albania isn't part of the Schengen Area , the independent e-visa process is a breeze to navigate. Another bonus: it’s yet to be overrun by mass tourism, so visitors can still enjoy untamed beauty across the country— outdoorsy types tend to hit the popular hiking trails in the Albanian Alps up north, while leisure seekers are more drawn to the picturesque Albanian Riviera in the south. As for what makes it especially fascinating? A highly unusual past. If you are planning a trip, these are the best places to visit in Albania.

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The Skënderbej Square in Tirana is one of several landmarks in the Albanian capital that speaks to the country's rich history.

To truly appreciate Albania is to understand its backstory, and the vibrant capital of Tirana makes for a great base to learn about why it is the land of bunkers. Oh-so-many bunkers. An exact figure is impossible to determine (some have been recycled, others destroyed), but records claim there are somewhere between 175,000 and 750,000 of these abandoned concrete mushrooms in existence in Tirana. Personifying the paranoia that defined the communist leadership of Enver Hoxha from 1944 until his death in 1985, they were built following World War II in strategic locations like clifftops, but also in fields, on street corners, and along coastlines in case of a raid by enemies—enemies that ultimately proved illusory. And with Hoxha withdrawing Albania from international politics and economic trade agreements entirely, it only reopened its doors to tourists after the fall of communism in 1991.

Today, many of the surviving bunkers have evolved into social and cultural spaces like lounges, bars, pizzerias, tattoo parlors, and artist studios, showcasing the ingenuity of modern-day Albanians. In Tirana, for example, one of the bigger bunkers now stands as Bunk’Art 2 , a 24-room museum that reconstructs the history of the Ministry of Internal Affairs from 1912 to 1991, by recreating its interrogation cells, vivid imagery, and art installations . The exhibits and details comprise a genuinely engaging space. The city is also home to House of Leaves , an intriguing museum occupying the building that was once used by the Gestapo during World War II, before serving as part of the relentless surveillance tactics of the communist state's political police, Sigurimi—yet another cruel persecution tool employed by Hoxha.

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Old concrete bunkers are scattered throughout Tirana—such as this one in a memorial park—and stand as symbols of perseverance through a dark chapter in Albanian history.

Smaller in scale but equally worth visiting is the open-air museum of Postbllok (Checkpoint) . Here, three poignant exhibits is all it takes to highlight the atrocities of Hoxha's communist regime. Take the time to linger by the deeply personal abstract sculpture artist Ardian Isufi and writer Fatos Lubonja designed using concrete girders from the Stalinist-inspired Spaç labor camp. Lubonja served a total of 17 years after authorities accused him of criticizing the Hoxha government, participating in an alleged plot against the state, and possessing banned materials. Interestingly, the trendy district of Blloku is located around the corner, showcasing the effortlessly cool side of Tirana—symbols of social progress and economic development are unapologetically interspersed with reminders of a troubled past. Head to the eclectic Komiteti to see this dichotomy in action. Between homemade raki (an aniseed-flavored alcoholic beverage), live jazz sessions, and a display of 17,000 antiques historical items like antiques and traditional costumes, this café-museum hybrid is the perfect place to mingle with young locals, many of whom have strong opinions on what it means to live in a more liberal—and increasingly ambitious—Albania.

Tirana's thriving dining scene is also a sign of the times. Between the abundance of Mediterranean produce and the warmth of Balkan gastronomy—coupled with Ottoman influences —Albanian cuisine is both multi-faceted and central to the country's identity, but its revival hasn't come easily. Alongside nearly half a century of political oppression, the Communist government also restricted the consumption of meat and dairy, inevitably resulting in the loss of cooking traditions over time. At Mullixhiu , however, chef-founder Bledar Kola of Noma fame is on a mission to research and reinterpret Albania's culinary heritage. Recognized by 50 Best Discovery , the tasting menu at this slow food institution features a roster of culinary greatest hits—eight courses that include delicate, flaky trout from the Cem river and fli , a multi-layered pastry with pastoral roots.

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Incidentally, it's not just the preservation of their cuisine that Albanians hold dear. They still abide by the longstanding practice of xhiro , gathering in groups for a leisurely stroll come sunset, and Skënderbej Square is a prime example of where this cherished social activity takes place. Join them, and take in a handful of key attractions at this sizable public square. Reopening as a house of worship in 1991 (communist rule brought with it a complete ban on all religions), Et’hem Bey Mosque is considered unique due to the motifs that adorn its frescoes—depictions of forests and waterfalls are a rare sight in mosques worldwide. Up ahead, Kulla e Sahatit is a 115-foot-high clock tower that was built in 1822. Make peace with both heights and confined stairwells because a climb to the top of this Ottoman-era monument is rewarded with views over Skënderbej Square and beyond.

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Gjirokastër, nicknamed the “City of Stone” for its abundance of classic Ottoman architecture, is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Berat or Gjirokastër?

Both historical cities make for excellent contenders when it comes to exploring the Ottoman Albania period, an influence that continues to be felt to this day—with the Ottoman Empire enjoying a reign of more than 600 years, it profoundly influenced everything from cuisine and religion to governance. And while day trips from Tirana to Berat and Gjirokastër are doable, making more room in your itinerary to explore is worthwhile.

But—if you only have time for one—our recommendation is to head to Gjirokastër. Aptly nicknamed the “City of Stone,” it might as well take center stage in a fairytale. Steep cobblestone streets guide visitors up to the imposing Gjirokastër Castle , one of the biggest in the Balkans, for unmatched views of the Gjerë Mountains and Drino Valley. The climb , although somewhat strenuous, is part of the experience—a landscape of greenery and perfectly preserved Ottoman architecture is interrupted only by stray dogs vying for a spot in the shade and the occasional elderly woman hawking freshly picked coltsfoot flowers for tea. You'll have to pry yourself away from the atmospheric Old Bazaar first.

Local restaurant Odaja wins rave reviews for its honey-smothered cheese, a local take on saganaki , and arancini-like qifqi that's native to the city, but just about everything at this family-run spot feels like a revelation. Nearby, both embroiderer Vjollca Mezini and stone-carver Muhedin Makri who also works with iron, deserve a visit, even if your luggage can't accommodate their artisanal wares. Between her hand-embroidered products and his artworks crafted entirely from stone, it's easy to see why this historic site (the bazaar dates back to the 17th century) and its many artisans form the heart of Gjirokastër. It's also here that another pioneering gem awaits. In the home of Polyphony, there's an initiative that aims to protect and promote Albania's traditional folk music, which has taken up residence in one of the city's many Cold War tunnels. In 2022, an iso-polyphony museum opened beneath Gjirokastër’s 18th-century Bazaar Mosque, which is alongside a network of subterranean bunkers.

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The Albanian Riviera typically sparkles untouched save for a few local fishing boats.

Sarandë or Himarë?

Extending nearly 296 miles along the Adriatic and Ionian seas (the two meet at the port town of Vlorë), Albania's coastline offers something for every type of traveler thanks to its sheer range of crumbling ruins, picturesque villages, natural wonders, secret beaches , and bustling urban centers . The country's public transport system can be unreliable, so you're better off booking a private taxi to the Albanian Riviera, or Bregu, as it is colloquially known. But before heading off, you have your choice of base.

The tourism hub of Sarandë is home to sprawling resorts, upscale restaurants like Nám and Black Marlin , boat tour operators, and a lively promenade, all bordering a scenic horseshoe-shaped bay. In contrast, the former fishing village of Himarë is a lot more authentic in feel. And because it remains relatively untouched by urban development, it’s more suited to anyone in need of a little quiet. Whether you're looking to indulge in some slow travel or something a bit more cosmopolitan and fast-paced, your pick of attractions in Sarandë awaits.

For nature-lovers, start at the Blue Eye, a spring surrounded by lush greenery and shrouded in mystery—no diver has ever been able to descend deeper than 165 feet due to fierce pressure from the underground spring, so its true depth remains unknown. And while swimming here is prohibited, the defiant do so anyway, despite the temperature hovering close to 50 degrees Fahrenheit year-round. True to its name, this natural monument is reminiscent of a human eye; blue-green waters surround what looks like a darker blue “pupil” owing to a sunken cave that pumps fresh water to the surface. One legend claims that the Blue Eye is actually the eye of a mythical snake that met its fate when it swallowed a donkey that was on fire.

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Butrint is a town built around Roman and Byzantine ruins, in contrast to the majority of Albania's strong Ottoman influences.

Butrint is Albania’s most impressive archaeological treasure, and visitors can expect a vast repository of ruins echoing the former iterations of this UNESCO World Heritage site —Roman arches and Byzantine mosaics included. Considering it covers more than 200 hectares, those pressed for time should focus on making pit stops at the Dea of Butrint, a goddess statue which proudly features on postcards and magnets across Albania, and the ancient theater that continues to host festivals every summer. Elsewhere, aquatic adventures come guaranteed at Karaburun-Sazan National Marine Park, where canyons, steep cliffs, and mountains only add to this rich ecosystem. Hire a speedboat, and take the day to swim in its clear waters and snorkel to the Cave of Haxhi Ali, a karst cave named after a revered Bektashi dervish and saint in Albania.

The Albanian Riviera, is lined with beautiful beaches so you’ll be excused for never venturing beyond its shoreline—but not all beachfronts are created equal. In contrast to the crowded and pebbly shores of Sarandë is Gjipe Beach, recently voted one of the best beaches in the world . Located between Himarë and Dhermi, this remote stretch of white sand is flanked by soaring, rugged cliffs that speak of the captivating beauty that's created by contrast. Admittedly, it isn’t easy to access (the hike’s not for everyone), so consider the sleepy coastal town of Ksamil instead.

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The pristine white pebble beach of Gjipe is a haven of solitude.

A brief pedalo ride will take you from the mainland to this set of four islets. Umbrella and lounger rentals are limited in number, so get there early enough to lounge about in relative privacy. And if you prefer an afternoon of barefoot luxury, the Hotel Luxury is the place to be with its attentive service and wide-spanning views of the coastline. The stylish beach clubs across Bregu rival the best of their counterparts in Greece, but with a fraction of the crowds—for now.

This article originally appeared on Condé Nast Traveller Middle East .

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  • 13 Reasons Why Everyone Should...

13 Reasons Why Everyone Should Visit Albania At Least Once

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Currently becoming one of the world’s most sought-after travel destinations, Albania is growing fast to accommodate visitors but also staying true to its strong rural culture. From beautiful nature to the more modern urban attractions, there’s so much to discover.

Albania has amazing beaches.

Since tourists are still discovering Albania, its many beaches along its Riviera are full of coves where you’ll only see a few people in the off-season months, such as September or October. The water is exceptionally clean and clear and often a gorgeous turquoise color.

Gjipje Beach

The rural culture is still strong

Albania’s big cities may be growing rapidly, but in its villages, the rural culture still reigns supreme, with many families taking care of their needs through their own garden and livestock. Don’t be surprised to see shepherds walking around with a herd of sheep or cows grazing everywhere in the landscape.

Albanian Village

Albania’s capital city is on the rise

Tirana is an exciting city where things are just starting to grow after years of being closed to the world during the communist era. Apart from the foreign investment everywhere, younger Albanians are also returning to Tirana after years abroad, in turn, infusing the city with a fresh energy of entrepreneurship.

Tirana

There are plenty of UNESCO World Heritage Sites

Albania is full of history, including the beautiful UNESCO towns of Berat and Gjirokaster, which have some of the most beautiful examples of Ottoman-era houses. Another important site is Butrint, an ancient Greek and later Roman city.

Berat

The villages are perfectly idyllic

Village life in Albania has remained largely unchanged, and a lot of villagers have turned their homes into pensions where tourists can come and stay with them. Immersing yourself in their lives is a great way to go back to basics.

Valbona

Albania’s mountains are stunning

The Albanian Alps are fantastic for hiking, and their peaks are breathtaking from every angle. Hiking paths have been marked quite well, so even though you’ll only come across a few shepherds on your way to the top, you’ll never get lost.

people cheering on a mountain

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Valbona

There are many beautiful hidden churches

On your way through Albania, you’ll constantly see signs for historic monasteries and churches, and they are all quite lovely and set in remote areas. Make sure to visit some of these churches during your visit.

Church of Saint Mary in Apolonia, Albania

The people are exceptionally friendly

Albanians are a very happy people who are very fond of visitors. So if you ever do get lost, don’t be afraid to ask for help; there is always someone who speaks a little English who will be happy to guide you in the right direction.

Saranda

The food is fresh and delicious

With such a strong rural culture where everyone grows their own food, you can only imagine how fresh everything is. The seafood in Albania is also excellent, and with a distinct Italian influence, you’ll probably end up eating one of the best seafood linguines of your life.

Fish

Albania’s sunsets are especially beautiful

At night, and particularly in the countryside or the beach, the sunsets are exceptionally impressive in Albania. Due to the lack of large structures emitting light, you can watch as the colors change in all of their detail, and once it gets dark, you can also see all the stars in all of their shining glory.

Albania

The country’s tourism sector is just beginning to grow

One of the best things about Albania at the moment is the lack of tourists. Yes, you’ll come across people while hiking or relaxing on the beach, but it will never be too much to become overwhelming—especially in the off-season months and in areas away from major cities.

Hotel Rilindja

There is so much to discover outside the popular areas

Visitors may have discovered areas such as the Albanian Alps, Tirana, and the Riviera, but the country is so large that there’s so much more to explore. Towns such as Korca, Pukë, Kruja, or Pogradec are some examples of the not so well-known areas that are still waiting to be explored.

Korca

Albania’s nature is still pristine

Albania is an excellent place for nature lovers who can find solace in mountains, forests, islands, beaches, and much more. And the best part is that nature still exists freely with wandering horses and grazing cows everywhere.

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