kayak trips telegraph cove

2024 Dates Available

[email protected] , Port McNeill, British Columbia, Canada

Discovery Expeditions

Telegraph Cove Kayaking, Whale Watching In Canada, Vancouver Island

Experience the thrill of kayaking in the picturesque waters of Telegraph Cove and Johnstone Strait on Northern Vancouver Island, BC, Canada. Embark on our guided tours that take you through Telegraph Cove to the remote Sophie Island, where the possibility of encountering orcas directly from your kayak is a frequent delight. Our all-inclusive packages include meals and lodging in spacious, waterproof tents with comfortable bedding. Please note, flights to Port McNeil are not included in the package. Join us for a seamless adventure in the wild!

Test Your Karma & Paddle Among The Orcas

Experience a unique family adventure with our most popular 4-day all-inclusive kayaking package around Telegraph Cove on Northern Vancouver Island . This journey offers a superior opportunity to observe orcas and other wildlife as you spend days navigating the pristine waters of Johnstone Strait and Robson Bight. Unlike traditional whale watching, our tours provide extended time in the orcas' natural habitat, greatly enhancing your chances of sightings. Guided by experts with deep local knowledge, we adapt our routes based on the latest whale reports and weather conditions, ensuring a rich and engaging experience for the whole family.

Professional Kayaking Guides

Beautiful Ocean Scenery

Lifelong Memories

Larry Roy - Canadian Kayak Pioneer

Larry Roy , the owner of Discovery Expeditions , brings over 25 years of invaluable guiding experience to our tours. Since 1986, he has been dedicated to maintaining a small sea kayaking company out of Telegraph Cove. Discovery Adventures prioritizes quality wilderness experiences for its guests. While other company owners have moved on, Larry is a true lifer in the industry. Furthermore, he is a valued kayaking and research community member. His extensive experience has honed his skills in guiding and fostering safe wildlife encounters , ensuring uninterrupted and immersive experiences for visitors.

Discovery Expeditions' Kayaking Tours Near Telegraph Cove

Embark on an unforgettable adventure with Discovery Expeditions' Kayaking Tours  beyond the quaint destination of  Telegraph Cove, Vancouver Island, Canada . We offer a range of captivating experiences, including day trips , 3-day , 4-day , and 6-day trips , in the cove designed to cater to all levels of explorers. Whether you're seeking a thrilling multi-hour trip or an overnight expedition, our seasoned guides will take you on a journey through the natural waters of Telegraph Cove and the captivating landscapes of Northern  Vancouver Island . Kayaking in Canada (west coast)  offers an incomparable experience, surrounded by awe-inspiring natural beauty. Take advantage of the opportunity to encounter and view wildlife in a genuinely unparalleled way. Get ready for an unforgettable wilderness experience with Discovery Expeditions' Kayaking Tours in the cove .

ORCA DAY TRIP

Custom Day Trip

Wildlife watching in the morning and kayaking in the afternoon make for a full tour of Blackfish Sound and Johnstone Strait. The tour can be organized to fit guests' expectations. Possible options include bear watching and museum visits. This trip is also an excellent option for those staying at Telegraph Cove Resort or a lodge.

CDN $450 pp

ORCA EXPLORER

It perfectly blends wildlife, potential bear viewing, kayaking, and relaxation. Whale watch from the boat, kayak and your tent platform. Suitable for couples, families, and small groups of friends. (rentals included)

CDN $1450 pp

Family Rates Available

BROUGHTON ARCHIPELAGO

A Nomadic kayak trip that is a spiritual journey through the entire Marine Park. Takes in long paddling days highlighting the areas where wildlife co-habitats, where island rainforests grows to the waters edge and the natural sounds of nature can be absorbed. Takes in whales along the way.

CDN $1495 pp

How Your Journey Begins & What To Expect

Your adventure starts at Port McNeil during the low tides of July and August. Here, you'll board a 32 ft landing craft and set off on a captivating two-hour detour through Blackfish Sound for an initial whale-watching round before arriving at Sophie Island, your comfortable base camp.

Arrival and Exploration

Upon reaching Sophie Island , you'll quickly settle into your new surroundings. After enjoying a quick lunch, you'll immediately return to your kayaks to continue exploring the vibrant marine life around the island. This rhythm of exploration and relaxation typifies your stay, providing a balanced experience of adventure and comfort.

Base Camp Amenities and Activities

Our base camp isn’t just a place to rest but a fully equipped facility designed to enhance your wilderness experience with comforts like a gazebo, showers, and bathrooms . From here, embark on guided hikes such as the challenging trek to the research station overlooking Robson Bight or the scenic paths to Vancouver Creighcroft Island, providing enriching experiences both in and out of the water.

Our Equipement & Crew

At Discovery Expeditions , we are equipped with top-tier kayaking gear and a highly qualified team to ensure a safe and enriching experience. Our equipment includes stable and reliable Necky kayaks and Sierra Design tents, available in both tandem and single configurations. For safety, we provide life jackets in multiple sizes to accommodate all guests.

Quality and Safety

Our operations are backed by a full insurance package covering third-party liability and marine insurance. Our boat is fully insured and holds a SOVP certification for operational safety.

Expert Guidance

Our crew consists of expert guides with certifications in advanced wilderness first aid and various levels of sea kayak guiding from the Sea Kayak Guides Alliance . This ensures that every expedition is led with the highest standards of safety and environmental knowledge.

Gear to bring 

Being comfortable in the wilderness is important to us. Want to see a whale or a bear? Then good binos are necessary.

Camping accommodation on Island

Our camp located on Sophia Island in the Core Area of Johnstone Strait adjacent to Robson Bight.

Certified sea kayaking guides

Our seasoned, professional guides ensure a safe and memorable sea kayak experience

Book Your Adventure with the Professional Staff of Discovery  

Book your adventure with our team of professional kayak guides  and give your family an experience they'll never forget. Our experienced kayak guides are not only skilled in navigating the stunning Pacific waters and coastlines but are also expertly trained in safety and local wildlife. They will guide you through exhilarating paddling routes and hidden coves, ensuring a safe and engaging experience. The journey is especially enriching for children with camping experience, offering numerous activities around our island base camp and designated safe areas for play and exploration, all under the watchful eyes of our guides and support staff.

Start Your Journey

Faq & info about telegraph cove.

Nestled in a protected inlet at the northern tip of Johnstone Strait, opposite the Broughton Archipelago, Telegraph Cove and Port McNeill  are renowned launching point for wilderness expeditions on the North Island. For those seeking wildlife encounters, whale watching or exploring first nations culture, both places offer access to local wilderness. The Great Bear Rainforest and the Broughton Archipelago are nestled in the foothills of the Coastal Mountain range mountains of the mainland. Visitors can also indulge in various activities, such as fishing, kayaking, diving, hiking, and informative tours at the Whale Interpretive Centre. Furthermore, a recent enhancement to the journey is the newly widened and realigned paved road, adorned with scenic viewpoints, guiding travellers from Highway 19.

Is Sea Kayaking Northern Vancouver Island Worth It?

Visiting Northern Vancouver Island is worth it for nature enthusiasts and those seeking a unique coastal experience. Port McNeill offers breathtaking natural beauty, opportunities for whale watching, and a chance to observe diverse wildlife (everything from a whale to a bear). The picturesque surroundings and rich history make it an attractive destination for photographers, outdoor enthusiasts, and those seeking a tranquil escape in the scenic wilderness of British Columbia's Vancouver Island. Remember that the island is part of the Pacific rim, offering plenty of natural history.

Is There Reliable Cellphone Reception In The Area?

Telegraph Cove Area and Johnstone  Strait  is a remote and secluded area on Vancouver Island. Cell phone receptions is available in most spots.  While some cellular networks may have coverage in the vicinity, it's important to note that the signal strength may vary. Vancouver Island has rugged terrain and dense forests that can affect signal strength, resulting in weak or no reception areas. It is advisable to check with your specific cellular service provider for coverage details on the island and consider alternative means of communication, such as landline phones or Wi-Fi, if available in your accommodations or resort.

Is It Common To See Whales In Johnstone Strait?

Yes, you can expect to see whales in the Johnstone Strait. The area is known for its rich marine ecosystem, making it a prime location for whale sightings. Telegraph Cove and Port McNeill offer excellent opportunities for whale watching, with regular sightings of orcas, humpback whales, and minke whales. Many tour operators in the area specialize in whale-watching excursions, increasing the chances of encountering these majestic creatures in their natural habitat. Additionally, the cove and the island are prominent bird watching destinations.

What Is The History Behind The Name Telegraph Cove?

Telegraph Cove derives its name from its historical significance as a telegraph station  on Vancouver Island. In the late 19th century, a telegraph line was established along the British Columbia coast, connecting communities and enabling communication over long distances. Telegraph Cove was a station along this telegraph line where messages were relayed and transmitted via telegraph wires. The cove was named after this critical communication infrastructure, marking its role in facilitating the exchange of information and connecting coastal settlements on the island.

Ecosummer Expeditions 1584 Bauza Creek Road Telegraph Cove, BC, Canada, V0N 3J0 Email Us Today!

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Telegraph Cove Kayak Rentals

Our rental fleet of Seaward expedition kayaks, lightweight fiberglass or carbon paddles and gender specific PFDs will ensure you’re as efficient and comfortable on the water as can be. Launch right from our base in Telegraph Cove on Northern Vancouver Island.

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Sea Kayaking Tours from Telegraph Cove, British Columbia

Multi-Day Guided Kayak Expeditions on Vancouver Island

• Tour Details
• What's Included
• Tour itinerary

Payment Details

Explore the wilderness of the northern coast of Vancouver Island on these remarkable sea kayaking tours. Whether you are new to kayaking or an experienced paddler, there is a trip for you.

• Multi-day sea kayaking excursions
• Explore the Broughton Archipelago
• Visit Blackfish Sound & Johnstone Strait
• See marine wildlife and whales
• Local, experienced guides
• High-quality gear & paddling instruction

Experience the serenity of whale watching from a kayak as humpback, minke, and killer whales roam the rugged waterways of northern Vancouver Island. Steller sea lions, Dall’s porpoises, and acrobatic white-sided dolphins are the locals here. Glide past mist-shrouded islets with bald eagles perched on towering cedars and watch for bears foraging along the shoreline. Commune with nature unplugged and end your day with friends around a beach bonfire as the sun sets on the North Pacific.

These expedition-style kayaking tours are fully nomadic, so we go where the wildlife and conditions are best. No two trips are the same. These small-group kayak tours practice leave-no-trace camping on the many remote islands of the Broughton Archipelago, Blackfish Sound, and Johnstone Strait. This awe-inspiring region will leave you breathless.

Follow the path less traveled into remarkable rainforests, island beaches, quiet bays, and lagoons.  This region of BC is one of the most beautiful and unique ecosystems in the world.  You will have time to slow down and take it all in.  It is a life-changing area.

There are three tours offering 3, 5, and 6 day options, exploring the varied waters, coastlines, and natural wonders of Johnstone Strait, Blackfish Sound, and the Broughton Archipelago.  There is a trip for everyone, and with low guide-guest ratios, you’ll be well taken care of.  This is simply an amazing part of Canada’s west coast, and once you come here, you will wonder why it took you this long. With expedition-grade gear and some of the most experienced guides in the area, these incredible kayak adventures are second to none!

• Personal Experience
• Trusted Tour Operator
• Local Guides
• Small group
• Best Price Guarantee
• International number: +1 778 348 1676

Availability (2024):

2 people minimum for all tours.

3 day Johnstone Strait: $1399/person

• June 1-Sept 22

5 day Blackfish Sound: $2050/person

• June 5-Sept 18

6 day Broughton Archipelago: $2199/person

What's Included

• Meals, snacks and soft drinks
• Water taxi transfers (Broughton Archipelago tour)
• All camping and cooking gear
• Tents, sleeping bags and mattresses
• Double or single fibreglass sea kayaks
• PFD’s (designed for kayaking)
• Paddling jackets
• Spray skirts
• Kayak booties and gloves

What to bring

• A complete packing list will be provided
• Flashlight or headlamp
• Water bottle with strap
• Sunscreen and lip balm
• Sunglasses with neck cord
• Clothing suited to a variety of temperatures and weather conditions
• Fleece jacket and windbreaker
• Wool or fleece hat
• Sun hat or ball cap
• Wet shoes for kayaking, such as Tevas or Aqua socks
• Sturdy shoes for around camp and hiking

Not Included

• Transportation from your home city to Telegraph Cove, BC
• Travel Insurance
• Overnight accommodations before and after your trip

Contact us for more Information about this tour

INTERNATIONAL NUMBER: +1 778 348 1676

You can also send an email to [email protected], or use the contact form here below.

Find out more details about the tour and its highlights

Guide Information :

Your guides are experienced expedition leaders, with designation in SKGABC sea kayaking leadership and are fully certified in advanced wilderness first aid and CPR.  They take your safety very seriously and always consider your personal comfort zone.  Not only are they leaders in their field, but they are also patient teachers and offer a holistic approach towards safety and learning.  They are the most experienced guides in the region, with over 50+ years of navigating the Johnstone Strait. As full-time residents of the region, they possess an unwavering passion for spotting wildlife and sharing their in-depth knowledge of the area with you. You are in good hands.

3 Day Johnstone Strait Tour

The Johnstone Strait is home to some of the highest levels of biodiversity in Canada. For three days, we will explore the ecosystem and discover a myriad of animals, large and small — from microscopic plankton to the gargantuan humpback whale. These ...)

The Johnstone Strait is home to some of the highest levels of biodiversity in Canada. For three days, we will explore the ecosystem and discover a myriad of animals, large and small — from microscopic plankton to the gargantuan humpback whale. These mighty mammals of the sea call Johnstone Strait their summer home, as do Steller sea lions, harbour seals, Dall’s porpoises, minke whales, northern resident killer whales, the Biggs transient killer whales, and river and sea otters.

Johnstone Strait boasts over fifty bird species living and migrating through the area, so keep your eye on the sky as well as the intertidal zone! There are tons of alien-like marine critters to admire alongside our more familiar birds and mammals. Your beachside campsites are totally off-grid and only accessible by watercraft.  You will spend the days paddling and exploring the coastlines in your trusty kayak, always on the lookout for wildlife.

Your tour begins at 8:30 am and departs from Telegraph Cove on Fridays or Mondays.  And then you return to Telegraph Cove in the late afternoon on the third day.  While no previous kayaking experience is necessary, you should be physically and mentally fit for 3 days of kayaking and camping in a wilderness setting.

5 Day Blackfish Sound Tour

Venture on a remarkable 5-day kayaking tour from Telegraph Cove, BC.  From Johnstone Strait into Blackfish Sound, you’ll glide through some of BC’s finest spots and through two of the most biodiverse bodies of water on the Pacific Coast. You will cam...)

Venture on a remarkable 5-day kayaking tour from Telegraph Cove, BC.  From Johnstone Strait into Blackfish Sound, you’ll glide through some of BC’s finest spots and through two of the most biodiverse bodies of water on the Pacific Coast. You will camp in a remote wilderness area and enjoy the timelessness of this authentic coastal location. In the capable hands of your exceptional guides, you’ll enjoy unique locations, landscapes, and wildlife exclusive to this secluded tip of the world.

This is a voyage of discovery in two of British Columbia’s most beautiful natural environments: Johnstone Strait and Blackfish Sound. If we are blessed with good weather, you’ll stay at several campsites and enjoy relaxing in incredibly remote locations—so you can trade the hustle and bustle of the city for the peaceful sounds of BC’s raw wilderness. Blackfish Sound and the surrounding area can be full of wildlife ranging from eagles, porpoises, dolphins, sea lions, birds of prey, humpbacks, orcas, and a variety of different invertebrates hiding under the surface.  Weynton Passage and Blackney Passage, two areas we will paddle in, boast an abundance of wildlife in the area due to the high tidal current speed—why is that, you ask? You’ll just have to come on the tour to find out!

Your tour begins at 8:30 am and departs from Telegraph Cove on Mondays throughout the season.  And then you return to Telegraph Cove in the late afternoon on the following Friday.  While no previous kayaking experience is necessary, you should be physically and mentally fit for 5 days of kayaking and camping in a wilderness setting.

6 Day Broughton Archipelago Tour

Enjoy this amazing all-inclusive 6-day sea kayak expedition in the Broughton Archipelago.  On this extended 6-day tour, we will cross both the Johnstone Strait and Blackfish Sound to delve deep into the Broughton Archipelago. Indulge in the unparalle...)

Enjoy this amazing all-inclusive 6-day sea kayak expedition in the Broughton Archipelago. 

On this extended 6-day tour, we will cross both the Johnstone Strait and Blackfish Sound to delve deep into the Broughton Archipelago. Indulge in the unparalleled tranquility of this majestic place that boasts over 200 islands and stretches all the way to the mainland of British Columbia. Enjoy the best of both worlds by experiencing wildlife hotspots in the Johnstone Strait and Blackfish Sound before losing yourself in the hushed serenity of the Broughton Archipelago.

This kayaking tour is a complete experience that will take you on an extended journey through the incredible and untamed wilderness of the British Columbia coast. You will cross Johnstone Strait exploring the habitats of minke whales, orcas, and harbor seals. And then paddle across to Blackfish Sound, passing through areas common for humpback whales, Dall’s porpoises, and Steller sea lions. Finally, we’ll paddle through the Broughton Archipelago in search of migratory birds, sea lion haul outs, harbor porpoises, and some of the best intertidal life in the area.

This tour involves six days of kayaking, and on some of those days, we paddle as much as 20 km or more and camp in remote areas with very few developed services. It is best for ages 16 years old and above and is especially suitable for adventurers who have experience with remote, self-supported trips.

Your tour begins at 8:30 am and departs from Telegraph Cove on Sundays throughout the season.  You will paddle one way from Telegraph Cove, Vancouver Island, to the mainland and use a water taxi for the journey back.  This trip can also run in reverse by taking a water taxi on the first morning to the heart of the Archipelago before paddling for the next 6 days back to Telegraph Cove.

Deposit and Taxes

• Pricing does not include: 5.00% GST. 
• A 50% deposit is required to hold your reservation. 
• Balance of payment is due 60 days before trip commencement.

Cancellation Policy & Details

• 60 days or more notice: full refund less $50 admin fee per person.
• 31-59 days notice: 50% refund (deposit not refunded).
• 30 days or less: no refunds issued.

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I think it was John Grace who once said "It's all just training for British Columbia". He was referring to the super challenging creeking and multi day wilderness whitewater trips that are located all over this mountainous province. There is a lifetime worth of easy and intermediate paddling too. Whether it is multi day ocean trips, winter whitewater paddling on Vancouver Island, surfing tidal rapids, creeking in the interior, remote trips up north BC offers it all and then some.

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Telegraph cove, telegraph cove, telegraph cove kayak rentals.

(250)230-4399

Bauza Cove, Telegraph Cove BC

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Telegraph Cove Mount Waddington D, BC V0N 3J0

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Canoe Kayak Canada Freestyle is responsible for the growth and development of Freestyle Canoe/Kayak in Canada. We work with provincial, territorial and local organizations to hold programs that support athlete development. We also host National Team trials and support athletes at the international level.

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Telegraph Cove Travel Guide

Planning a trip to Telegraph Cove ? You’re in the right place!

The history of Telegraph Cove dates back to the early 20th century when it served as a crucial communication hub for the region. Built-in 1912, the telegraph station facilitated communication between the coastal communities and the rest of the world. The cove’s sheltered harbor provided the perfect location for the station, where telegraph operators relayed important messages, news, and weather updates via the telegraph lines that spanned across the province. Over time, advancements in technology rendered the telegraph station obsolete, but the legacy of its vital role in connecting communities lives on. Today, visitors can still explore remnants of the original station, offering a glimpse into the bygone era and a deeper appreciation for the area’s historical significance.

Telegraph Cove’s Wilderness

Beyond its historical value, Telegraph Cove is celebrated for its breathtaking natural beauty. Surrounded by lush forests and the shimmering waters of Johnstone Strait, the village is an idyllic escape for nature enthusiasts and adventure seekers alike.

• Whale Watching: Johnstone Strait is renowned as a prime destination for orca whale watching. Visitors can embark on guided tours to witness the majestic orcas and other marine wildlife, such as humpback whales, porpoises, and sea lions, frolicking in their natural habitat. Join us on one of our tours to experience the beauty of the local wildlife!
• Kayaking Adventures: Paddle your way through the calm waters of Telegraph Cove and explore the nearby islands. North Island Kayak offers unique day tours, basecamp adventures and nomadic expeditions that will give you the opportunity to get up close with the area’s marine life while immersing yourself in the serene surroundings.
• Fishing: The region is a haven for fishing enthusiasts, with opportunities for salmon and halibut fishing. Local fishing charters provide an unforgettable experience for anglers hoping to catch their next big trophy.

Telegraph Cove’s Village

Telegraph Cove ‘s small community warmly welcomes visitors, and one of the best ways to immerse yourself in the local culture is by interacting with its residents.

• Whale Interpretive Centre: Visit the Whale Interpretive Centre to learn more about the the local wildlife, by viewing rare and impressive skeletons of killer whales, cetaceans and other marine life!
• Stay in Charming Accommodations: Telegraph Cove’s Lodge offers cozy lodges and rooms that provide a comfortable and authentic experience, often with stunning waterfront views. Watch the sun set over the cove in the comfort of your quaint room!
• Local Cuisine: Delight in fresh seafood and locally sourced ingredients at the village’s restaurants, by visiting the Killer Whale Cafe and Old Saltery Pub, where you can savor the flavors of the Pacific Northwest.

Telegraph Cove , BC, is a destination where history merges seamlessly with nature’s grandeur. From its humble beginnings as a telegraph station to its current status as a thriving tourist hotspot, this picturesque village continues to captivate the hearts of visitors. Whether you’re drawn by the rich history, the incredible wildlife, or the serene landscapes, Telegraph Cove offers a unique and unforgettable experience that will leave you yearning to return time and time again. So, pack your bags, embrace the adventure, and explore this hidden gem on the beautiful coast of British Columbia!

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Why you should visit Telegraph Cove on Vancouver Island, British Columbia

03/02/2024 By Traveling Canucks Leave a Comment Categories: Adventures British Columbia Canada Telegraph Cove Trip Ideas Vancouver Island

Telegraph Cove on Vancouver Island

Telegraph Cove is a picturesque fishing village located on the northeast coast of Vancouver Island in British Columbia . It’s home to one of the last boardwalk settlements left on Vancouver Island and is the gateway to one of the richest marine ecosystems in the world.

It’s named after a one-man coastal telegraph station, built over a century ago in 1912. It later became a fishing village and cannery. Nowadays, it’s a launch point for eco-tourism and outdoor adventures, including whale watching and grizzly bear tours, fishing excursions and sea kayaking expeditions. 

There are no guarantees when it comes to nature, but the Johnstone Strait is widely known as one of the best places in the world to see orcas in the wild. 

Watch this short video from our visit to Telegraph Cove. 

Below are a few photos of Telegraph Cove Marina.

It’s easy to see why this old fishing village has become a top Vancouver Island tourist attraction. 

Telegraph Cove Whale Watching

One of the most popular things to do in Telegraph Cove is whale watching. Orcas from the Northern Resident population return to this part of Vancouver Island each summer. Because of this, your odds of seeing orcas here is quite high. 

You also have a good chance at seeing minke, humpback and grey whales, Pacific white sided dolphins, harbour porpoises, Dall’s porpoises (they look like small orcas), harbour seals, Steller sea lions (the world’s biggest sea lion species), and bald eagles. If you’re lucky, you might even spot a black bear or sea otter. 

Whale watching tours with Prince of Whales depart from the dock in front of the iconic red building. These whale-watching tours explore the Johnstone Strait and Broughton Archipelago Marine Provincial Park . 

There are two boats for whale watching tours. See photo below.

The smaller boat on the left is a 12-passenger open-air Zodiac boat. You skip across the water at top speeds, so it’s more adventurous. Guests are provided a Mustang Survival Suit for safety and protection from the elements. Learn about zodiac whale watching tours here .

The larger vessel is a 74 person semi-covered, custom-built express cruiser. It has a washroom onboard and multiple viewing platforms (open air and covered). This boat offers a more luxurious whale watching and marine wildlife viewing experience.

Book a Half-Day Whale Watching Adventure with Prince of Whales here . 

In our opinion, the 74 passenger vessel is the way to go, especially if you’re traveling with kids. It’s nice to be able to walk around and get a different perspective from the upper deck. And the bathrooms are essential for a 3+ hour tour.

Learn about Whale Watching Tours and Pricing here . 

Telegraph Cove Whale Museum

The Whale Interpretive Centre is worth a visit. It’s located in the same red wooden building as the Prince of Whales Adventure Center. 

The whale museum is not very big. You only need about 20-30 minutes to see the exhibits. The whale skeletons hanging from the ceiling are impressive. 

It’s also an inexpensive activity. Admission for Adults is $5.00. Children admission is $3.00. 

More info about Telegraph Cove Whale Interpretive Centre here .

The centerpiece of the Whale Museum is a 20 meter long fin whale skeleton (picture above). 

Telegraph Cove Kayaking

There’s lots of adventurous things to do in Telegraph Cove, including world class sea kayaking. It’s quite common for paddlers to kayak with whales here. The Johnstone Strait is said have the largest resident pod of killer whales in the world, topping 200+ orcas in the summer [ source ]. I like those odds. 

Telegraph Cove kayak tours explore the islands and inlets in and around Broughton Archipelago Marine Provincial Park, British Columbia’s largest marine park.

North Island Kayak is the largest kayak tour operator in Telegraph Cove. It’s been offering guided sea kayaking trips since 1991. Tours can be as short as 2 hours. Multi-day kayaking excursions are also available. 

Nearby  Robson Bight Ecological Reserve (approx 20 km east of Telegraph Cove) is a protected area. Paddlers and boats are not allowed to enter. However, you can paddle past this area from a distance, which increases your chance of seeing whales and marine wildlife. 

Related – Moutcha Bay fishing lodge at Nootka Sound, Vancouver Island

Telegraph Cove Fishing 

The waters surrounding Telegraph Cove offer some of the best fishing on the West Coast of British Columbia. Guests can charter fishing boats or launch their own boat at the Telegraph Cove Marina.

The islands of Broughton Archipelago provide natural protection from waves and swells, making this an ideal fishing location. Five species of salmon inhabit the area, including Chinook, Pink Salmon, Sockeye Salmon, Coho or Silver Salmon, and Chum. Bottom fishing include halibut, lingcod and rock fish.

The above photo is freshly caught halibut delivered to The Old Saltery Pub. 

Telegraph Cove Restaurants and Cafes

The main Telegraph Cove restaurant is The Old Saltery Pub . It has a nice patio section that overlooks the marina. It serves West Coast Cuisine featuring burgers, steak and local seafood, including garlic prawns, bacon wrapped scallops, fish and chips, and Cove Seafood Chowder. See the menu here .

The Killer Whale Cafe is located in the same building as the pub. It serves a similar menu.

The green building is the Cove Coffee Company . It serves fresh coffee, baked goods and ice cream. Grab a drink and pastry and sit on the pier. It also sells souvenirs and local gifts. 

There’s a coffee shop, Sally’s Food Bar , located beside the resort office

The General Store at Telegraph Cove carries locally crafted gifts, souvenirs, books, clothing, fishing tackle and bait, and liquor, spirits and wine.  

We enjoyed fresh coffee on the boardwalk on a cool summer morning. 

Where to Stay at Telegraph Cove

Visitors have options for Telegraph Cove accommodations, including a brand new lodge , historic cabins and houses , waterfront motel and campground sites .

Telegraph Cove Resort is basically spread throughout the seaside village. Many of the unique homes on the boardwalk have kept their original charm. They were once home to families and workers in the village. Check availability here .

The Outlook at Telegraph Cove is a two floor motel located directly in the marina (picture above). Many of the rooms have waterfront views. 

Telegraph Cove camping is popular with quests on a Vancouver Island road trip. Read about our RV camping road trip on northern Vancouver Island . 

The Telegraph Cove Marina and RV Park is located within steps of the village. Additionally, the Forest RV Campground is located about one km from the village. You can rent small rustic cabins if you don’t have an RV or you don’t want to sleep in a tent. More info and pricing here .

You can also stay at nearby  Alder Bay RV Park and Marina . It’s about a 20 minute drive to from this campground to the village. 

Above is the reservation office at The Outlook motel. 

The historic cabins and houses are available for nightly rentals. 

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Vintage pick-up truck on the boardwalk. Vintage might be a stretch. Old, rusty and dilapidated might be more appropriate. You can actually find this truck on google maps, search for “Retired Dodge Truck”.

The village has heritage signs to educate visitors. Here’s The Johnstone Strait sign. 

This sign sums up everything you need to know about Telegraph Cove Resort. 

How to get to Telegraph Cove

It’s actually very easy to get to Telegraph Cove by car. It’s located near Port McNeill, which is about a 3.5 hour drive north of Campbell River. Port Hardy is about 45 minutes north of Telegraph Cove. The drive from Victoria to Telegraph Cove is about 6 hours. 

There’s only one highway, BC 19, in northern Vancouver Island. Follow the highway (and road signs) to  Beaver Cove Road, which eventually turns into Telegraph Cove Road. 

To get from the Mainland ( Vancouver ) to Vancouver Island, you will take BC Ferries from either Horseshoe Bay (North Vancouver to Nanaimo) or Tsawwassen (Vancouver to Victoria ). Check the BC Ferries website for departure times and routes. 

You can also fly to Victoria, Nanaimo or Port Hardy and rent a vehicle . Pacific Coastal Airlines offer daily flights from Vancouver, and other British Columbia destinations, to Port Hardy Airport. 

Of course, if you have a boat, you can also moor your boat at the marina.

Read more blog posts from Vancouver Island, BC

• Best Road Trip from Vancouver for first time visitors
• The best things to do in Victoria, British Columbia
• What we learned on our first RV camping trip on Vancouver Island
• The Best Surfing Beaches near Tofino, British Columbia
• Moutcha Bay Resort in Nootka Sound, Vancouver Island

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Telegraph Cove Sea Kayaking Company

Local vancouver island adventure company with over twenty-five years of kayaking experience.  .

Telegraph Cove Sea Kayaking has been offering a kayak transport services to wilderness destinations for over 25 years. We also offer a trip planning service to help you plan a safe sea kayak trip. Planning is the best way to ensure a safe and enjoyable experience. The breathtaking beauty of the islands, inlets, wildlife, and sounds of this area offer you an unparalleled wilderness experience. We have provided service to over 3000 paddlers. We have a good track record for transport and rentals.

We started up in 1982 as the first kayak outfitter in the central and north island. We serviced groups and families from our retail base in Nanaimo, BC. Our store became well known as the demand for sea kayaking gained hold with adventurers from all over the Pacific Northwest. We expanded our business into Telegraph Cove and operated out of Telegraph Cove Resorts for the better part of 20 years. As demand grew we expanded to offer transport services and have a backup for tours. We invested in a custom designed landcraft. We have open a part of the business we did not anticipate, we service flim companies, photograph groups, other tour companies and our custom day trips. To improve our services we have focused on drop-off destinations in the Broughton Archipelago, Blackfish Sound and Johnstone Strait. We service Telegraph Cove, Alert Bay and Port Mcneill as departure points. Pre-booking is required to ensure we can provide services on the dates guests require them.

Kayak rentals are only available in combination with transport. Safety is and always has been a primary concern when renting kayaks to folks from afar. We maintain and improve our equipment each year and offer consulting services (planning fee) for folks who ask us to help plan a successful sea kayak adventure. We live in these area all summer. We monitor weather, track the movement of wildlife and monitor availability  in the camping areas. We remain in contact with those folks we transport in the event a situation comes up that could compromise your trip. Extra service costs might apply in these situations if additional assistance is required. 

The operation has grown steadily over the years mostly through word of mouth. We still enjoy it and consider ourselves fortunate to have such supportive clients. Public support allows us to continue to support, “Strait Watch, Local Dive Club, the Communities of Telegraph Cove, MERS, North Island Tourism, Alert Bay and Port McNeill, The Bones Project, Double Bay Whale Sanctuary and  “Orca-Live.” Over the years, we have also come to the aid and support of many causes that help the areas we’re operating in to remain a wild and intact ecosystem.

Sea Kayak guided tours or group transportation to select locations in north Vancouver Island's Broughton Archipelago, Johnstone Strait and Blackfish Sound.  1-250-756-0094

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A fantastic road trip along the eastern shore Nova Scotia

The first time I visited Nova Scotia I travelled along the province’s fabled South Shore and the Bay of Fundy . This is the Nova Scotia of postcards: candy-striped lighthouses , tie-dye skies, gelato-coloured fishing villages and white sand beaches. 

It’s also packed full of big-hitter sights from the colourful former rum running and ship building port town of Lunenburg and the storybook huddle of wooden fishing huts at Peggy’s Cove to the former Acadian village of Grand-Pre . 

Not surprisingly, Nova Scotia’s south shore is incredibly popular. 

Not far away, however, is the eastern shore of Nova Scotia . This corner of the province is wilder, woollier and far less visited than its southern neighbour. 

But, as I discovered on my recent road trip along Nova Scotia’s eastern shore, this really is one of the most beautiful stretches of coastline home to pocket-sized towns, stirring sea views , community-led museums and some wonderful places to stay . 

I was truly blown away by my time exploring the eastern shore of Nova Scotia and constantly surprised at how quiet it was.

If you are looking for somewhere a little different , somewhere away from the crowds and somewhere filled with both beautiful landscapes and offbeat attractions then it’s time to start planning your trip to Nova Scotia’s east coast. 

Disclosure: This post may contain affiliate links. I was a guest of Nova Scotia Tourism for the purpose of creating this itinerary. See our full  disclosure policy  for more details.

Eastern Shore Nova Scotia Itinerary  (8 and 10 days)

Table of Contents

This  8-day and 10-day itineraries  for the eastern shore of Nova Scotia is   based on my trip and what I learned along the way. It includes everywhere that I visited as well as some suggestions for places you might want to add to your trip if you have time.  

If you only have a week to spend along Nova Scotia’s eastern shore then I would recommend enjoying Halifax, Porter’s Lake, Tangier and Port Dufferin, Liscomb and Guysborough.

Depending on when your flights arrive, it’s worth spending at least two nights in Halifax. You could then plan your trip as follows:

• Day 1: Fly into Halifax and overnight.
• Day 2: Explore Halifax and overnight.
• Days 3-4: Drive to Porter’s Lake and spend two nights at Nalu Retreat.
• Day 5: Drive to Tangier for a kayaking adventure and overnight in Port Dufferin at The Marmalade Motel.
• Day 6: Taylor Head Provincial Park, overnight at Liscombe. 
• Day 7: Drive to Guysborough and overnight at Authentic Seacoast Yurts in a Vineyard.
• Day 8: Return to Halifax and home. 

Map Key: The red markers indicated places to visit and the purple markers represent places to stay.

If you can, I would highly recommend that you spend 10 days exploring Nova Scotia’s eastern shore. This will give you time to enjoy the above itinerary in a more leisurely fashion.

It will also allow time to explore some of the additional communities that lie along this stretch of coastline as well as more of the region’s popular beaches. You may also choose to head further north and explore Cape Breton .

• Day 5-6: Drive to Tangier for a kayaking adventure and spend two nights in Port Dufferin at The Marmalade Motel. 
• Day 7: Taylor Head Provincial Park, overnight in Liscombe. 
• Day 8-9: Drive to Guysborough and spend two nights at Authentic Seacoast Yurts in a Vineyard.
• Day 10: Return to Halifax and home.

Getting to Nova Scotia

Halifax Stanfield International Airport is the is the Atlantic Canadian hub for all domestic, regional and international services to and from Nova Scotia.  Air Canada  flies daily from London Heathrow’s Terminal 2 to Halifax. The non-stop flight takes just 6h 5m. 

The best time to visit the Eastern Shore Nova Scotia

Summer is the most popular time to visit Nova Scotia; the months of July and August are warm and sunny and see the most visitors, particularly along the south shore. Personally, I think autumn is one of the best times to visit. This is when the leaves transform from shades of green into a kaleidoscope of burnt reds, oranges and gold.

Explore the Eastern Shore of Nova Scotia

One of the best things about Nova Scotia is just how easy it is to get around, particularly when exploring the East Coast. No sooner have you escape Halifax then you will find wide open roads and minimal traffic – there were times when I hardly saw anyone else on the road.

Driving distances along the Eastern Shore are also short, which means that you can squeeze a lot into your trip if you want to. 

This itinerary starts in Halifax and assumes that you are flying in and out of the capital. 

Day 1: Arrive and travel into Halifax

If you are planning on exploring Nova Scotia beyond the capital then you will need a car. Public transportation within Halifax is good but it is not great outside of the city.

I collected a rental car at the airport and drove into the city where my hotel, The Sutton Place Hotel , had a car park. Alternatively, depending on how many days you choose to spend in Halifax, you may choose to collect a rental car in town and then return the car to the airport at the end. 

The Regional Express 320 runs between Halifax Stanfield and Downtown Halifax. 

I stayed at  The Sutton Place Hotel  in the heart of downtown Nova Scotia. The modern hotel is located within the Nova Centre (a multi-use building that also houses office buildings and the Halifax Convention Centre) and is perfectly place for seeing Halifax’s best sights including the Halifax Waterfront and the Halifax Citadel.

I arrived in Halifax late afternoon and so by the time I checked in to the hotel it was almost dinner time. There are some great restaurants in Halifax (I loved dining at The Bicycle Thief on a previous trip to Nova Scotia) but this time I choose to dine at the hotel’s Chop Steakhouse & Bar , which was excellent. 

Day 2: Halifax

Nova Scotia’s capital really deserves more than just one day but if you are tight for time, then here is how I recommend you spend your time in Halifax. 

Morning: Get to know Halifax

I enjoyed breakfast in my hotel and then headed out to the nearby Halifax Citadel that sits on the city’s highest hill. 

This is one of the most popular sights in Halifax and well worth a visit. The current structure is the fourth iteration of the citadel: the first was completed in 1749, the second in the 1770s and work on the third citadel got underway in 1796. 

By 1825, however, the fort was in ruins and planning began for a fourth, more permanent structure were put in place with work beginning in 1828. 

What you see today is this final fortress, a star-shaped stone citadel that took 28 years to complete. Despite never seeing battle, the citadel served as soldier barracks during both World War I and World War II. 

You can visit the citadel on your own or with a costumed guide who will show you around the barracks, guardroom and powder magazine. One of the best things about visiting the Halifax Citadel during the summer  is the fort’s Living History program which transports visitors back to 1869 when the 78th Highland Regiment was stationed here. 

The “soldiers” (members of a historical re-enactment group) stand guard in their MacKenzie tartan kilts , take part in drills on the parade ground, perform firing demonstrations and more, bringing the history of the fortress to life .

It’s very well done and I highly recommend that you spend an hour or two here. If you time your visit for just before noon then you will hear the Noon Gun being fired, a tradition since 1857. 

What sounds really fun (but what I sadly did not have time to do) is the ‘Soldier for a day’ experience. The three-hour activity includes getting dressed up, taking part in marching drills on the parade square and learning how to fire a rifle. 

When you leave the citadel, head down towards the Halifax Waterfront Boardwalk . Running from the Canadian Museum of Immigration at Pier 21 to the Casino Nova Scotia is this 3km (2mile) footpath that skirts along the Halifax Harbour.

The boardwalk is lined with food huts, restaurants, shops and museums and you can easily spend the afternoon simply wandering around – try lunch at The Bicycle Thief or Ristorante a Mano , an Italian trattoria. 

The board walk is also a great spot for joining boat tours to see the city from the water. 

My favourite thing about the boardwalk, however, is the Canadian Museum of Immigration at Pier 21 . This is an excellent museum and one of the best things to do in Halifax.

Located at one end of the boardwalk, the museum is housed in the historic site at Pier 21 which served as the entry point for nearly one million immigrants between 1928 and 1971. The museum does an excellent job of showing the immigrants’ journeys, from their arrival by ship and the customs and immigration process in Halifax to the train that transported the immigrants to their final destination. 

Also located along the boardwalk is the Maritime Museum of the Atlantic , dedicated to Nova Scotia’s maritime heritage. What I found particularly interesting was the exhibit that explained the terrible events surrounding the Halifax Harbour Explosion in 1917 and the role that Halifax played when the Titanic sank in 1912. As the closest large port to the disaster site, ships were dispatched to search for survivors and to rescue victims. 

Evening  

Assuming that you dined along the boardwalk during the afternoon then you may want to head up to Halifax’s North End for dinner. I didn’t get to visit this neighbourhood on my last trip to Halifax so I made sure to squeeze in a quick stop on this visit. 

The North End neighbourhood was once Halifax’s economic hub but the Halifax Explosion of 1917 – when the French cargo ship SS Mont-Blanc collided with the Norwegian vessel SS Imo in the Halifax harbour – devastated the once prosperous neighbourhood. 

Today, however, North End is on the up and it’s a fun place to wander around filled with independent boutiques , art galleries, bars and restaurants , and colourful salt box homes. 

Days 3 – 4: Porter’s Lake & Lawrencetown Beach 

It’s just 40km from Downtown Halifax to Porter’s Lake and Nalu Retreat & Nordic Spa where I highly recommend you spend a couple of nights. I spent two nights here and wish I could have stayed longer.  

Fisherman’s Cove

On your way towards Porter’s Lake, make time to stop by Fisherman’s Cove a colourful 200-year-old restored fisherman’s village that lies just 13km from Downtown Halifax.

A row of wooden huts, the colour of Skittles, line the wooden boardwalk housing a variety of shops including a couple of art galleries selling works by a variety of different local artists as well as gift shops. Not surprisingly, perhaps, the most popular store is Jo’s Old Time Candy and Ice Cream Shop . 

Yes, it doesn’t feel quite touristy but I still enjoyed my stop at Fisherman’s Cove (and my ice cream from Jo’s!). 

It’s 40km from Fisherman’s Cove to Nalu Retreat & Nordic Spa if you choose the most direct route. Or, you can do as I did, and take a more relaxed route along Marine Drive .

This designated scenic driving route hugs the shoreline, winding its way past clapboard houses and cherry-red barns with gambrel roofs, white sand beaches shrouded in rolling fog and sun-kissed communities where Canadian, Acadian and Saltire flags wave in the breeze. 

Acadian House Museum

If you have time, make sure to stop at the Acadian House Museum (L’Acadie de Chezzetcook). This was just one of the many small museums that I visited during my time on the eastern shore of Nova Scotia and I really recommend it. 

Originally from France, the Acadians arrived in what is today known as Nova Scotia in the years after 1632. They settled, worked the land and lived peacefully, retaining a position of neutrality while the British and the French were at war. 

In 1744, the British expelled anyone not loyal to the crown and Le Grand Derangement , saw thousands of Acadians forcibly expelled from their homeland. The Grand-Pré National Historic Site , near the upper Bay of Fundy, tells the tale of this terrible time in history and is today a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It is easy to add the Grand-Pre on to your itinerary when you tour the  south shore . 

Even if you don’t make it to the Grand-Pre, however, the Acadian House Museum in the small community of Chezzetcook offers visitors a good insight into Acadian culture in this corner of Nova Scotia. During summer months, local students lead tours around the property , a former Acadian home from the 1850s-70s, and explain what life was like for this isolated community. 

The home is packed full of household items including wash stands, the family’s best china (which would only come out when the priest came to visit) and the chaise lounge in the living room where, my guide explained, the head of the household would take a nap after returning from the field. 

My favourite items were the old curling tongs and the sock-shaped metal hangers for drying wool socks. There’s a cafe on site too, La Cuisine de Brigitte , where I had a quick and tasty lunch. 

The museum is open July 1 to August 31 , Tuesday to Sunday. 

Nalu Retreat & Nordic Spa 

One of the best things about my trip along the eastern shore of Nova Scotia was the accommodation . Despite being far less visited than other places in the province, there are some really exciting and innovative accommodation options. 

One such place is Nalu Retreat & Nordic Spa . 

Set on 25 acres of woodland, overlooking Porter’s Lake , one of the largest lakes in Nova Scotia, sit three oversized white geodomes shining in the summer sunshine. Completely isolated, these marshmallow-like luxury domes are a wonderful adults-only retreat open year round. 

What really makes these domes so special are the large panoramic windows . Mine (No. 2) overlooked Porter’s Lake and I spent a large amount of my time sitting on the sofa soaking up the view.

Every dome comes with a large private deck with your own hot tub, an outdoor shower , a fire pit and an electric barbecue. Inside, the domes enjoy all the luxuries of a boutique hotel ; a comfy queen size bed with luxury linens, a modern bathroom with rain shower and a well equipped kitchen with almost everything you need to whip up an evening meal. I say almost: the kitchens come with hot plates and there’s a bbq outside to use. 

Another highlight are the indoor stargazing loft . Granted, the ladder leading up to the stargazing nook is a little precarious but if your stay coincides with a clear night then the views are spellbinding. 

I was not in the mood for cooking during my stay and fortunately Nalu Retreat caters to visitors like me, offering a range of meals that you can order to be delivered to your dome, everything from a generous charcuterie board to a seafood chowder that you can heat up. 

Almost next door to the property are the  Crowbar Lake Hiking Trails  with four routes to choose from.

Lawrencetown Beach 

I spent one afternoon during my stay at Nalu Retreat at nearby Lawrencetown Beach . This pebble-and-sand beach is a popular surf spot and two schools offer regular lessons.

I enjoyed a 1.5-hour private lesson with Kannon Beach Surf School and had a very kind and enthusiastic 21-year-old instructor who was extraordinarily patient with me as I attempted to surf (or, rather, attempted to simply stand on the board!).

This was not the first time that I had tried surfing – previous attempts in Australia and France should have given me some kind of advantage – but the truth is that I find surfing incredibly difficult .

The moving board, the inconsistent waves, the ‘popping’ that you’re supposed to do in a matter of seconds in order to stand up, are all a challenge and my attempts on a foggy Lawrencetown Beach were not pretty. 

Nevertheless, I really enjoyed my lesson and will definitely try again – if not skill then hopefully dogged determination will see me hang ten before too long! 

Day 5: Tangier & Port Dufferin

One of the joys of driving along the eastern shore Nova Scotia is that driving distances are not long . Case in point, the drive from Nalu Retreat & Nordic Spa to Tangier is only 70m and takes just over one hour on Marine Drive . 

But there’s no need to do the journey in one shot, there are lots of places to stop along the way including some of the eastern shore’s most popular beaches.

Clam Harbour Beach , Martinique Beach and Musquodoboit Harbour , home of the longest sandy beach in Nova Scotia are all possible stop off points. You will also drive past what I think is one of the best museums in Nova Scotia , the Memory Lane Heritage Village . 

Memory Lane Heritage Village

The wonderful Memory Lane Heritage Village is a living history museum showing rural life in Nova Scotia during the 1940s , including life during and after World War Two.

I’ve been to a number of living history museums around the world but typically these have highlighted life from centuries ago rather than a more immediate past. 

The museum opened in the year 2000 and was very much a community project . Thea Wilson-Hammond, Executive Director of the museum and daughter of one of the founders, explained that the museum was very much a collective community effort with locals volunteering their time, knowledge and expertise, and donating items for the museum. 

Within the museum grounds are 16 rescued and restored buildings that every village in the 1940s had: a church, a one room schoolhouse, a boat shed, a general store, and a gas station. Unique to this corner of Nova Scotia and this museum is the area dedicated to the gold rush era. 

Visitors can stop by the gold miners prospecting camp belonging to local prospector Colonel Logan who found gold in the Lake Charlotte area. His original equipment is still on display as is his 1928 Ford Model A .

Sadly the Ford was out of action when I visited but I did get a spin around ‘town’ in the cherry red 1948 International Pick Up truck, courtesy of my guide Rusty. 

Some of my favourite stops were the family home complete with a wonderful pink fridge in the kitchen and the cookhouse , which traditionally fed the labourers and today is open for lunch. I had an excellent grilled cheese sandwich alongside some delicious baked beans made, as they always have been, with molasses. 

Barry Colpitts

One of the highlights from my trip to the eastern shore Nova Scotia was also one of the most unexpected. I had been told that I would spot the home of folk artist Barry Colpitts as I drove along Marine Drive and sure enough, half way between Memory Lane Heritage Village and my next stop, Tangier, I spied his house. 

Granted, his home is a little difficult to miss. 

Barry Colpitt is a self-taught folk artist who works with wood, carving colourful figures, statues and whirligigs.

Typically, his garden is filled with brightly painted whirligigs but a storm had been forecast on the day I visited so he had stored them in his workshop. Nevertheless, his house is still unmissable, a two-storey white clapboard home covered in wooden figurines the colour of the rainbow. 

I stopped by unannounced but Barry was extremely welcoming and happy to introduce some of his pieces. He explained that every sculpture on the house is someone he knows.

There’s a carved head of a woman who used to sit in front of him in church, the figure of his third grade teacher and a c arved sculpture of his mother when she was pregnant with him. 

My favourite of all his works was not one attached to his house but one in his workshop called the ‘Flying Bird Chair’ , a wooden chair with a dozen birds attached to it by long wooden sticks. The idea is that you a sit among the birds and feel like you are flying with them. 

Other works included the ‘Prayer Redemption Helmet’ , a wonderful whirligig helmet to wear and the ‘Village Dance’, a joyful whirligig that requires audience participation: you have to ‘shake’ the hands in order for the whirli to move. 

Sea Kayaking in Tangier

To really understand the beauty of the eastern shore of Nova Scotia you have to get out on the water.

Thousands of islands pepper the coastline , like gemstones scattered from a merchant’s purse. Some are nothing more than rocky outcrops piled high with Scrub Spruce and others are larger with untouched white sand beaches to rival the Caribbean.

Within this stretch of coastline are the 100 Wild Islands , a protected archipelago of over 100 islands stretching for 30 kilometres along the eastern shore.  

Gayle and Scott have been running Coastal Adventures near Tangier for 42 years and are the most delightful duo, leading visitors on kayaking adventures ranging from half-day excursions to eight-day trips to Newfoundland and around Cape Breton . 

I spent a wonderful afternoon kayaking along the turquoise waters with Gayle and Scott , past lion mane jellyfish drifting in the clear waters and half a dozen Harbour seals sunning themselves on a rocky outcrop. An Osprey, a fish grasped firmly in her talons, landed elegantly in her nest at the top of a tree ready to feed her young as we paddled gently by. 

The Marmalade Motel in Port Dufferin

My home for the night was The Marmalade Motel a charming nine-room modern motel on the edge of the Wild Island. I loved my sunny bedroom with its private ocean-facing balcony and enjoyed a glass of wine sitting on an Adirondack chair watching the sun set. 

The motel also has a cafe, the Marmalade Cafe and Coffee Bar , which is a great place to get breakfast and very near the entrance to Taylor Head Provincial Park. 

If you are spending 10 days exploring the easter shore Nova Scotia then I recommend staying at The Marmalade Motel for two nights. This will give you more time to enjoy a full day at Taylor Head Provincial Park (one of the eastern shore’s most beautiful provincial parks). Alternatively, you can spend the afternoon hiking in Taylor Head and a full day sea kayaking with Gayle and Scott from Coastal Adventures. 

Day 6: Taylor Head Provincial Park & Liscombe

Not far from The Marmalade Hotel lies Taylor Head Provincial Park , a rugged peninsula in the Atlantic Ocean that offers six different walking trails. 

I had originally planned to walk one of the shorter routes such as Spry Bay Trail , a four kilometre loop that passes through the coastal forest and along wave-swept boulder shores. In the end, however, I did the longest loop, the eight kilometre Headland Trail that follows the length of the peninsula until you reach Taylor Head Point . 

This is such a beautiful corner of the eastern shore , a wild and windswept promontory that is both beautiful and dramatic. The sea mist, so common in this part of Nova Scotia, slowly rolled in as I walked through coastal forest, along fresh marsh and the rocky shoreline rendered smooth by the relentless movement of the ocean waves. 

Afterwards, I sat on the white sandy beach of Psyche Cove and ate my picnic –  you can pick something up from The Marmalade Cafe . The beach is easy to access from the parking lot.

The trails are all well marked and maps are available in a wooden post box attached to a tree near the start of the trails. A bear sign was in place when I visited so do make sure you are prepared with bear spray – I wasn’t and so made sure to make enough noise to alert any potential bears that I was in the area!

Sheet Harbour Museum 

Driving from Taylor Head towards to my next stop of Liscombe, I stopped in Sheet Harbour , a small rural community settled in 1784 by British and Scottish soldiers who had fought in the American Revolution alongside Loyalist refugees. 

I stopped by the MacPhee House Community Museum , another wonderful community museum, that tells the tale of this one prosperous town. 

The museum is located in the home that once belonged to the MacPhee family , a local family who ran a shop, postal office and hotel from the property as well as looking after six children, and is a wonderful celebration of the town’s history . 

It’s packed full of artefacts that have been donated by local families, everything from King George stamps and a weight that was once used to tether horses to a vintage Boy Scouts uniform and an Eaton’s Road King Bicycle that was all the rage in the 1950s. 

Of the many items on display, my favourites included the knitted woollen 1920s men’s bathing suit and the paper doll set with a very young Prince – now King – Charles. 

The museum is also the Tourist Bureau and the staff are incredibly helpful and friendly. 

Liscombe Lodge Resort  

It’s roughly 55km from Sheet Harbour along Marine Drive to Liscombe Lodge Resort where I spent the night. 

The resort overlooks Liscomb River and, once upon a time must have been  the  place to holiday. It feels a little like Mountain Lake Lodge, the resort in the movie Dirty Dancing , where Baby meets Johnny. It’s a rustic retreat with a swimming pool and activities such as kayaking and walking trails available. 

It was very quiet when I visited and so felt a little neglected but what I did love was the setting , surrounded by woodland and overlooking the dreamy Liscomb River, where I spotted a seal on the hunt for food.

I also really enjoyed the prolific birdlife . The lodge has bird feeders set up outside the main dining room window and I happily spent a long breakfast watching the many birds dash back and forth.  

Day 7: Sherbrooke Village & Guysborough 

​After breakast I headed to my next stop, Sherbrooke Village just 20 minutes away. This ended up being one of my favourite places on the eastern shore of Nova Scotia. 

Sherbrooke Village 

I arrived at Sherbrooke Village Museum in the village of Sherbrooke thinking that I would spend an hour, maybe two, exploring before hitting the road again. Several hours later and I still hadn’t seen anything at the museum that I wanted to. 

Like Memory Lane Heritage Village, this is a living history museum , only this one depicts life in Nova Scotia during the gold rush of the 1860s. 

But that’s not the only difference. 

Unlike most historical villages , where buildings are dismantled in other locations and rebuilt on the museum site, the Sherbrooke Village is located on the site of where the original village stood. In fact, there are still a couple of homes within the museum grounds that are privately owned. 

I loved this museum. Not only is it a fascinating insight into what was an incredibly prosperous time for this corner of Nova Scotia but the attention to detail is extraordinary.

Costumed interpreters bring the museum to life – a schoolteacher in the two-room school house and the post mistress manning the till in the post office for example – and historical items fill each building. 

Enter the pharmacy and you’ll find cabinets lined with original medicines , ointments and lotions dating to the 1800s. St Mary’s Printery has a working print press and the general store is packed with items that would have once been for sale. Among them, is a fantastic dog-powered butter churn. 

Some of the businesses feature local artisans at work, a potter at work in the Sherbrooke Pottery and weavers working in the Weavers Cottage . At Joe McLane Blacksmith, Tony the head blacksmith forged a coat hook for me before demonstrating his skills on a Penny Farthing bicycle. 

There’s a restaurant on site where you can eat lunch alongside many of the costumed interpreters and a gift shop selling, among other things, items made in the village such as the pots made in the pottery. 

One of the best things about Sherbrooke Village in my opinion is that you have the opportunity to dress up and explore the village in period costume .

All costumes are handmade and there’s something for everyone not matter your age or size. Given how much I love the chance to dress up I was sad that I didn’t get the chance to put on my 19th century finery , although I was also a little grateful given how hot it was when I visited.

If you do want to wear period costume (outfits include hats and shoes) then this does need to be booked in advance. 

​ Today involved a lot of driving, which is why I recommend spending 10 days exploring the eastern shore Nova Scotia instead of eight. From Sherbrooke Village it was 113km along Marine Drive to my next stop, Canso , past small coves and bays, and clapboard houses flying Canadian flags and the Saltire. 

I planned to spend the night in Guysborough but wanted first to visit the town of Canso, one of the oldest settlements in Nova Scotia . The small town sits on the northeastern tip of the province and was one of only two British settlements prior to the establishment of Halifax in 1749. 

It became strategically important when the subsea Transatlantic cable was established in 1866, linking Europe and North America. The Hazel Hill Commercial Cable station (which sadly no longer exists) became the relay station in Canso for telegraph messages that included the sinking to the Titanic and the 1929 stock market crash. 

In Canso is the Whitman House Museum , another community museum that does a wonderful job of preserving the town’s history . Housed within the home once owned by CH Whitman, a wealthy local businessman, the property recalls the history of both the Whitman family and Canso itself. 

​Visits are guided and my guide was fantastic, regaling me with historical facts and quirky tales including the reason why the house looks permanently sunny: amber stained glass windows were installed on the ground and first floor so that they sun always shone inside regardless of what the water was doing outside.

She also pointed out the ensuite bathroom belonging to the Whitmans with its bath that enjoyed “running water” . Given this was 1885, what this really meant was that servants would carry water up to the third floor and pour it into a vessel so that the taps in the bathroom could be turned on. 

CH Witman and his wife died in the 1930s and the home was sold. It was only in 1975 that the property became a museum. As such, very few original items belonging to the Whitmans remain although there are plenty of period pieces . There are also displays showcasing the town’s long military history. 

Guysborough 

If the town of Guysborough was located on Nova Scotia’s popular South Shore then it would be packed with visitors. This tiny town is an absolute delight and the gateway to some spectacular adventures in the Guysborough county. 

But when I visited, there were only a handful of tourists. As Glynn Williams, owner of Authentic Seacoast , said “over tourism is not something we have to worry about here.” 

And yet Guysborough and the surrounds have all the right ingredients to deliver the perfect holiday . 

I spent one night in a Mongolian yurt , one of 10 from Authentic Seacoast Yurts in the Vineyard , that sit on the edge of a pristine shoreline with views for miles.

My yurt, No. 10 , is probably the best of the bunch, tucked away on its own peninsula with a private hot tub and shower room, and my own golf cart for zipping around the property. 

Glynn Williams fell in love with the Guysborough area on a cycling holiday with his wife nearly 30 years ago and since then has invested millions in the town, believing wholeheartedly that Guysborough has so much to offer.

In addition to the yurts, Glynn owns DesBarres Manor Inn , a charming country inn that dates back to 1837. Located in the heart of town, I had dinner here and it was fantastic. 

Glynn also owns a distillery and brewery , Authentic Seacoast, and they produce a range of whisky, rum, beer and even coffee . Ask nicely, and you can take a tour to learn more about the many excellent drinks that they produce. 

The following morning I visited the Guysborough Waterfront where a farmer’s market takes place on Saturday mornings from 10am to 1pm. During summer months, the Marina Building hosts an art gallery with works by dozens of local artists on display. Upstairs of the Jost Building is a small cafe, the Cast Away Cafe , that makes a mean grilled cheese sandwich and brews very good coffee. 

If you have more time, I highly recommend spending at least two nights in Guysborough, one night really was not enough. 

Day 8: Return to Halifax and home  

You have two options for your return to Halifax .

The first is to retrace your steps and follow the scenic Marine Drive back towards the capital. Alternatively, you can take the highway back, which is what I did. The route following the Trans-Canada Hwy/NS-104 E takes just over three hours to get back to Halifax and under three hours to reach the Halifax Stanfield International Airport. 

I headed straight to the airport and spent the night at the Alt Hotel , which is perfectly located opposite the airport terminal. I flew back to London the following morning and am already planning my return to Nova Scotia. 

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Katja Gaskell