patek philippe aquanaut travel time 5164a 001

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In-Depth The Patek Philippe Aquanaut Travel Time Reference 5164A

The aquanaut has always been the other sports watch from patek – considered by some "nautilus light."  but this watch is a heavyweight all on its own..

While BaselWorld 2012 saw the introduction of the beautiful Nautilus with a white dial, perhaps the most interesting sport watch from Patek Philippe in the past two years isn't a Nautilus at all.  You see, the Aquanaut has always been the other sports watch from Patek - considered by some "Nautilus light."  So it was with great pleasure that in 2011 we saw the launch of arguably the coolest Aquanaut to date, the Aquanaut Travel Time 5164A.

For the first time, the Aquanaut had a complication! And a good one!  The 5164A is a casual sport watch with a second-timezone function shown via a fourth hand and two apertures on the dial that indicate whether you are reading local or home time.  The GMT hand is independetly adjustable via the pushers on the left hand-side of the case, making setting as easy as any travel time watch on the market.

At 6 o'clock is a traditional Patek Philippe date indication register tied to your home time.  The case dimensions are 40.8mm,    but due to to the case shape, it wears a little bit smaller (which is a good thing).  The movement inside the new 5164A is the caliber 324 S C F US, which is built atop the caliber 324 S C, that you will find not only in the larger Aquanaut model , but also the 5711 Nautilus - which of course prompts us to wonder "why not put this new travel-time caliber in the Nautilus?" That's another question for another day, and this movement is finished as beautifully as you would expect any Patek movement to be - which is to say, it's absolutely gorgeous.

Caliber 324 S C FUS has 294 parts, 29 jewels, and a power reserve of 45 hours.  It's interesting to note that this is same power reserve as found in the non travel-time movement (324 S C) - one would expect the fourth hand and home/local apertures to take up at least some power.  But, these are automatic watches meant to be worn every day, so a power reserve isn't a huge deal either way. 

The dial on the Aquanaut is black embossed with gold applied numerals and luminescent hour markers, that could look very cool as this watch ages .  You will notice the date register at 6 o'clock has subtle globe theme - which is neither here nor there.  The bezel has your standard Aquanaut brushed finish, which is truly lovely against this black / grey dial. 

The strap on the Aquanaut is composite rubber that Patek calls "Tropical."   I'm not sure if that is an allusion to the "Tropic" straps found on many 1960s dive watches , or if there is any technical similiarties here.  Either way, the strap does its job and looks the part.  On the underside, you will find an Aquanaut double deployant clasp.

The case is water resistant to 120 meters with a screw-down crown and relatively thin.  In fact, this watch is incredibly comfortable on the wrist with its modest (wonderfully so) size, atypical case shape, and rubber strap.   

The Patek Philippe Aquanaut Travel Time Reference 5164A is an incredibly well-made and useful watch.  It's casual and comfortable, and very subtle.  In fact, most people would have no idea just how impressive this timepiece is by looking at it - which is a good thing.  It is, quite honestly, the first Aquanaut model that really gets me going.  Would this movement be cooler in a Nautilus? Probably. But, it also provided a significant bump in interest to the traditionally less expensive Aquanaut line, and it's pretty cool this watch is on a rubber strap.

And about the price.  The 5164A has a retail price of $36,400.  Is that a lot of money to most of us? Sure, it is, but as Theirry Stern told me when I interviewed him last year , a Patek isn't for everyone, and it's important that it remains the end-game for collectors.  Sure, it may take you longer to own a Patek Philippe than most other watch, but when you finally get there, it will feel that much better.  

But, this Aquanaut must be considered in comparison to it competition.  At $36,400, this dual-time from Patek is a full $14,700 more expensive than the Royal Oak Dual-Tme from Audemars Piguet (MSRP $21,700) .  But, it must be said that this particular AP employs a Jaeger-LeCoultre base movement with module, not AP's excellent in-house 3120 caliber, nor the historic 2120 movement, while the Patek is based on their own in-house movement.  If the AP was based on either the 3120 or the 2120, the price difference might be less.

Compared to other sport models from Patek Philippe, the 5164 is $9700 more expensive than the Nautilus 5711 (time + date - MSRP $26,700), and $400 more than the Nautilus 5712  (power reserve and moonphase - MSRP $36,000). But,  this new Aquanaut is $11,200 less expensive than the Nautilus 5726 (annual calendar - MSRP $47,600) and $14,600 less than the Nautilus 5980 (chronograph - MSRP $51,000).

The funny thing is, anyone seriously considering this watch can skip right over that last paragraph, because Patek Philippes are not about price tag.  If someone wants this watch, they want this watch, and they will buy it, and love it.  I should also say that everyone I know that owns an Aquanaut (of the non-travel time variety) absolutely loves them, and the 5164A is surely the new sport watch from Patek to own.

For more details on the Patek Philippe Aquanaut Travel Time 5164/A, click here . 

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• Certified Pre-Owned
• Pre-Owned Patek Philippe
• Aquanaut Travel Time Reference 5164 Stainless Steel Automatic

• Mint - Mint condition
• Excellent - Like new – may have slight surface scratches
• Very Good - May have any of the following: light scratches; slightly stretched bracelet; patina on dial, hands, or bezel
• Gender Men's
• Case Size 38 mm x 41 mm
• Movement Automatic
• Features Date, Day/Night, Dual Time/GMT, Second Hand
• Strap/Bracelet Material Rubber
• Item Number VPP02446
• Manufacturer Reference # 5164A-001
• Case Shape: Cushion
• Case Thickness 11 mm
• Crystal Sapphire
• Dial Color Black
• Dial Markers Arabic
• Water Resistance 120 meters
• Strap/Bracelet Strap - Deployant

Pre-Owned Patek Philippe Aquanaut Travel Time Reference 5164 Stainless Steel Automatic

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Patek Philippe Aquanaut Travel Time 5164A-001

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About the Item

• Creator : Patek Philippe
• Design : Aquanaut
• Case Material : Stainless Steel
• Strap Material : Rubber
• Movement : Automatic
• Case Dimensions : Diameter: 1.61 in (40.8 mm)
• Place of Origin : Europe
• Period : 21st Century
• Date of Manufacture : 2021
• Condition : New
• Seller Location : London, GB
• Reference Number : Seller: 01072401 1stDibs: LU607323344502

Patek Philippe

It shouldn’t be surprising that a Patek Philippe holds the world auction record for a watch ( $31.2 million for a Patek Grandmaster Chime , sold at Christie’s). Known for impeccable craftsmanship and some of the most complicated timepieces ever created, the brand is considered by many to be the height of fine watchmaking . Collectors simply love Patek Philippe watches .

The house was founded in Geneva in 1839 by Polish expats Antoni Patek and Franciszek Czapek. Czapek left the firm, and in 1845, Patek partnered with French watchmaker Jean Adrien Philippe. It was the beginning of a beautiful friendship.

Catering to the glitterati of Europe, the pair counted among their clients Tolstoy, Pope Pius IX and Queen Victoria, as well as Countess Koscowicz of Hungary, for whom they created the first Swiss-made wristwatch in 1868. They also had their eye on the American market and in 1851 entered an arrangement with Tiffany & Co. still in effect today.

During the Great Depression, brothers Jean and Charles Stern, who had previously supplied Patek Philippe with watch dials, bought the company, and it continues to be run by the Stern family today.

Under the Sterns, the house has developed some of its most famous models, including the Calatrava , an elegantly minimal dress watch introduced in 1932 and named for the Calatrava Cross (the company’s logo since 1887), and the Nautilus , the brand’s first sports watch, conceived by legendary designer Gérald Genta in 1976.

Despite the house’s longevity, it’s rumored that it has manufactured fewer than a million Patek watches, making each one all the more coveted. (The brand's pieces are understandably attractive to counterfeiters — make sure you know how to spot a fake Patek Philippe watch .)

Find authentic Patek Philippe watches, cufflinks , bracelets and more on 1stDibs today.

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• 5164A-001 : Aquanaut Travel Time 5164 Stainless Steel / Black

Patek Philippe - 5164A-001 Aquanaut Travel Time 5164 Stainless Steel / Black

Patek Philippe 5164A-001 description

The Patek Philippe Aquanaut 5164 is a larger and more complicated version of Patek's casual sports watch. It features an automatic movement with dual time zone. Mechanical self-winding movement Caliber 324 S C FUS Aquanaut Travel Time Dual time zone mechanism indicating local and home time Local and "home" day/night indication in apertures Local date by hand Sweep seconds hand Black embossed dial, gold applied numerals, and luminescent hour markers "Tropical" composite strap Aquanaut fold-over clasp Screw-down crown Sapphire-crystal case back Water resistant to 120 m Steel Case diameter (10-4 o'clock): 40.8 mm

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Patek Philippe Aquanaut Travel Time - 5164A-001

• Dual Time Zone
• Black Embossed Dial
• Tropical Composite Strap that is resistant to wear, salt water, and UV radiation.
• Water Resistant to 120 meters

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Patek Philippe Aquanaut 5164A-001, Dual Time Zone, Steel, Black Arabic Dial, 40 mm

Patek Philippe Aquanaut

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• WATCH DETAILS
• Sku: 5164A-004
• Box: Original Factory Box
• Papers: Original Factory Papers
• Brand: Patek Philippe
• Model: Aquanaut
• Condition: Unworn
• Reference Number: 5164A-001
• CASE & BEZEL
• Case Material: Stainless Steel
• Case Size: 41MM
• Bezel: Stainless Steel
• Bezel Function: Fixed
• Dial Color: Black
• Dial Material: Arabic Numerals
• Bracelet Material: Rubber
• Closure: Double Fold Over Clasp
• Closure Material: Stainless-Steel
• Water Resistance: 120 meters / 394 ft.
• Movement: Automatic

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Patek Philippe 5164A-001 | Aquanaut Travel Time

• Collection: Aquanaut
• Model reference: 5164A-001
• Case/Size: Steel, 40.8mm
• Dial: Black
• Movement: Automatic-winding
• Functions: Hours, minute, seconds
• Specificity: Dual Time Zone
• Condition: Brand New
• Model Reference: 5164A-001
• Case/Size: Stainless Steel / 40.8mm
• Movement: Automatic winding
• Functions: Hours, Minutes, Date
• Condition / Year: Brand New / 2023
• Box / Papers: Yes / Yes
• Price: Upon Request

All the watches we offer come with a 2 year warranty but this timepiece enjoys a guarantee covered by the manufacturer, valid internationally at any flagship store or official retailer carrying the respective brand. If you wish we are happy to assist you handling this task. Scope of coverage subject to manufacturer’s policy, please contact us for more information.

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Description

Additional information.

The sporty Aquanaut collection has been launched in 1997 following two decades of success by its “Nautilus” sibling. The story began following a special-order in the mid-90s for gifts to be given to best army officers so the design had to be something robust and for action. It was intended for a younger customers base but older generation adopted it immediately, becoming an instant success due to its easy-wearability with the new “tropical” rubber strap and bold dial. In 2004, the diamond set ladies Aquanaut Luce reference 5067A found favour among the female wrists. To mark the 10th anniversary the extra-large 40.8mm reference 5167A was introduced and in 2011 the Travel-Time reference 5164A. For the 20th anniversary they released the first white gold 42.2mm jumbo size, the limited 5650G Advanced Research Travel Time and two ladies versions The Aquanaut Luce Haute Joaillerie 5062/450R and 5072R.

*The present model is the Patek Philippe Aquanaut Travel Time in Steel, reference 5164A-001, New Travel Time model with two hour hands for two time zones – local time and home time – and the convenience of the new self-winding caliber 324 S C FUS movement. The dial sports two day/night indicators and an analog date. Dual time zone mechanism indicating local and home time Local and home day/night indication in apertures. Black embossed dial, gold applied numerals, and luminescent hour markers with a screw-down crown. An elegant and chic black rubber composite strap will fix this gorgeous timepiece around lucky wrists.

Patek Philippe – Bio

Patek Philippe & Co. was founded in 1839, located in Geneva and the Vallée de Joux. It designs and manufactures timepieces and movements, including some of the most complicated mechanical watches. It is considered by many experts and aficionados to be one of the most prestigious watch manufacturers. In 1868, Patek Philippe made their first wristwatch, which was sold on November 13, 1876 to the Hungarian Countess. It is the last independent, family-owned Genevan watch manufacture with uninterrupted operating history spanning nearly 180 years.

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The Czapek and Cie brand dates back to 1845, launched by Franciszek Czapek. At the peak of their success, the brand catered to figures such as Napoleon, and had boutiques in locations such as the Place Vendome in Paris. After a period of dormancy, the brand was revived in 2015, and has since been known for their classically styled yet boldly designed watches.

Daniel Roth

Daniel Roth was born into a family with deep horological roots, and established his own manufacture in 1989. Despite his limited output, his work was incredibly varied , from double-ellipse cases to sharply executed pinstripe guilloché dials. Roth was one of the key brand names of independent watchmaking in the 1990s, alongside  Franck Muller ,  Roger Dubuis  and  Francois-Paul Journe , among others.

In 2002, David Zanetta and Denis Flageollet joined forces to establish De Bethune, united by their shared vision of what contemporary watchmaking could look like. Making a limited number of watches a year, the brand has combined time-honoured skills with cutting-edge technology, to carefully craft each piece entirely within the watchmaker’s atelier in the Swiss town of Sainte-Croix. Flageollet in charge of the technical and mechanical side of things, whilst Zanetta brings his input to the design and aesthetics.

When Nicolas Delaloye first charted an independent path in 2001, his first order of business was to devise a calibre of his own. While he procured the gear train from a vintage ébauche – the AS1130 – the rest of the calibre bore his unique vision. The process of development took three years. He paired it with a classical case, of the sort he had experience working with at Patek Philippe during his several stints with the brand.

Derek Pratt

One of the unsung heroes of British watchmaking, Derek Pratt dedicated his life to the pursuit of excellence in traditional watchmaking techniques. He began his career in restoration, before going on to work with Peter Baumberger to revive the Danish brand, Urban Jürgensen. The pinnacle of his career was his work on the Harrison H4, a passion project which was eventually completed by Frodsham & Co. after Pratt’s passing.

Florent Lecomte

Florent Lecomte began his career as a teacher at the Lycee Edgar Faure in Morteau in 2006, where he specialised in mechanical watches with complications. Some of Lecomte's pupils have included the likes of Remy Cools and Théo Auffret, all of whom have struck out on independent careers. Lecomte's own career as an independent began in 2020, during lockdown. As of today, he has produced three different watch series in limited numbers

F. P. Journe

As a talented young watchmaker , F. P. Journe restored clocks and pocket watches from Janvier and Breguet, completed commissions from Asprey and Cartier, all while working on his own projects . One day, his friend Camille Berthet suggested a subscription model. The Souscription Tourbillon  was born, with twenty close clients and friends of the watchmaker committing a deposit that allowed the F.P. Journe manufacture to flourish.

Franck Muller

Franck Muller began his watchmaking career restoring watches for collectors and auction houses, including for the Patek Philippe Collection, gradually building a reputation for his skill in restoring complicated timepieces. In 1984, when tourbillons weren’t in favour, and were rarely found in wristwatches, Muller designed his first exposed, dial-side tourbillon watch. Muller finally launched his eponymous brand in 1991, with the headline “Master of Complications”. His work is a spectrum, characterised by the classically-styled pieces made in his earliest days, to the modern, tonneau-shaped cases and experimental dials.

George Daniels

Dr. George Daniels is recognised as one of the greatest watchmakers of the 20th century. In 1981, he received an MBE for his services to horology, along with a CBE in 2010 – the first watchmaker ever to receive such an honour. One of his most noteworthy contributions to watchmaking was the invention of the  Co-Axial Escapement , designed to improve a mechanism’s long-term performance by radically changing the nature of its inner workings.

Gerald Genta

Gérald Genta is a designer that needs little introduction to those in the watch world. Perhaps most famous for designing the Royal Oak and Nautilus pieces for Audemars Piguet and Patek Philippe respectively, Genta's designs also included the Universal Geneve Polerouter, the IWC Ingenieur, and the Seiko Locomotive. The last piece pays tribute to some of his most successful designs, and Genta had a very close relationship with the brand's president, Reijiro Hattori.

Girard Perregaux

A distinguished Swiss watchmaker, boasts a rich heritage dating back to 1791, making it one of the oldest and most revered names in the horology world. Renowned for its commitment to precision, craftsmanship, and innovation, Girard-Perregaux has consistently pushed the boundaries of watchmaking excellence.

Greubel Forsey

Robert Greubel and Stephen Forsey met during their time at Audemars Piguet Renaud & Papi in the early 1990s. They launched Greubel Forsey in 2004, introducing the Double Tourbillon 30 °  at Baselworld, and making their mark as specialists of complicated watches. Some of their notable watches include the Handmade 1, which won the Men’s Complication Watch prize at the GPHG awards in 2020, as well as the Grande Sonnerie, their most complicated watch to date, with 935 components.

Bart and Tim Grönefeld grew up steeped in horology at their grandfather’s workshop, and later,  cut their teeth  at famed complications specialist  Renaud et Papi , alongside notable contemporaries such as  Stephen Forsey  and  Stepan Sarpaneva . Producing no more than 70 watches a year, the Grönefeld brothers create extremely high-quality pieces, having commanded the admiration and respect of  M. Philippe Dufour , amongst others.

Only making several dozen watches a year, Haldimann Horology is a true independent manufacture. Honing the horological arts since 1642, Haldimann watches are crafted entirely within the watchmakers’ workshop in the Swiss town of Thun. One of the last remaining ateliers in the world capable of producing and restoring almost everything by hand, the essence of Beat Haldimann’s approach to his work, is the synthesis of art and technology.

H. Moser & Cie.

H. Moser & Cie has long-established roots within the words of horology, with the manufacture originally founded by in 1828 in St. Petersburg, Russia. During this period, Heinrich Moser’s clients included Russian princes, as well as members of the Russian Imperial Court. Many years later, in 2005, the brand H. Moser & Cie was relaunched, with Heinrich Moser's great-grandson involved in the project.Since then, H. Moser & Cie has created watches which combine classic styling, with a number of innovative features.

Jaeger-LeCoultre

During the 20th century, Jaeger LeCoultre was known for producing its own wristwatches, such as the Reverso and the Memovox, as well as creating an imaginative array of horological objects. With a wide range of different designs - from  leather-bound travel clocks  to  miniature key pendants  which tell the time - they were all powered by the manufacture’s own calibers. Their mechanical prowess was such that their movements also found themselves in the watches of Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet and Vacheron Constantin, among others.

Jean Daniel Nicolas

Since leaving his eponymous brand, Roth has continued to produce watches, under the name of Jean Daniel Nicolas - a combination of his son’s name, his own and that of his wife. All three of them work together in producing a small handful of pieces, with his wife also trained as a watchmaker and his son apprenticing under his father. Under this new venture, Roth has narrowed his focus, on what matters the most to him. He only produces about two to three pieces a year, all of them displaying an impressive level of craft and hand-finished details.

Jean-Baptiste Viot

French watchmaker Jean-Baptiste Viot began his career in restoration, first working at the International Museum of Watchmaking in La Chaux-de-Fonds, then briefly at Vacheron Constantin, before moving to Breguet in 1998, where he spent eight years. After that, Viot decided to strike out on his own, as an independent watchmaker. His first watches used the Peseux 260 movements, famously also used in Kari Voutilainen’s Observatoire pieces. Completely handmade, Viot’s watches draw inspiration from 18th and 19th century French horology.

Kikuchi Nakagawa

Kikuchi Nakagawa was founded by watchmaker Tomonari Nakagawa and designer Yusuke Kikuchi in 2012, when the pair met in Paris. At the time, Kikuchi was attending watchmaking school and would later go on to work in watch repair. Meanwhile, Nakagawa had originally trained to be a swordsmith, later applying those metal-work skills to watchmaking and finding employment with Citizen Watch Co. Their shared sensibilities and appreciation of watchmaking from the 1930s and metal finishing are evident in the brand's work.

Laurent Ferrier

Prior to starting his eponymous brand, Laurent Ferrier worked at Patek Philippe for four decades, with his final position as creative director. Particularly reminiscent of classic Patek designs, we see a focus on maintaining tradition while creating watches that are contemporary and relevant. Laurent Ferrier is suited to the collector who appreciates excellent craftsmanship combined with modern aesthetics.

Lang & Heyne

Located in Dresden, Germany, the brand was created in the early 2000s by watchmakers Marco Lang and Mirko Heyne. In the earlier years, the manufacture grew to a team of just 10 watchmakers, producing 30 watches each year. Drawing inspiration from the Fürstenzug, a mural depicting the historical rulers of Saxony, their style adheres closely to classical aesthetics. while the watches range from elegant time-only pieces to impressively complicated examples.

Minerva’s story begins in the year 1858, founded by brothers Charles and Hyppolite Robert, in the small town of Villeret, located in the canton of Bern, Switzerland. The company - initially called H & C. Robert Watch Co. - started off by using third-party movements, which they built into pocket watches. However, the brand soon came into its own and began to produce watch movements in 1895.

MB&F’s  philosophy is simple - the  reinterpretation of traditional, high-quality craftsmanship  into three-dimensional kinetic sculptures. Collaborations between MB&F and independent watchmakers exhibit truly authentic examples of ingenuity. The company’s relationship with many of haute-horology’s finest independent movement makers, coupled with careful choosing of its suppliers has led to the development of visionary modern timepieces, celebrated equally for their exceptional design and mechanical brilliance.

Watchmaker John McGonigle founded his independent brand Oileán – pronounced ‘il-awn’ and meaning island in Irish – in 2020. The name Oileán reflects not just the watchmaker’s heritage but the fact that he works by himself. Although McGonigle initially began his career in Switzerland with his brother, Stephen McGonigle, his desire to explore his own watchmaking philosophy and aesthetic led John to become independent.

Parmigiani Fleurier

First introduced in 1996 by watchmaker Michel Parmigiani, The brand takes its name from its founder, Parmigiani, and the village in which it was founded – Fleurier, Switzerland. Parmigiani made a name for himself in the 1970s as a master restorer of vintage clocks and watches, and his workshop was where Kari Voutilainen first began his own watchmaking journey. Backed by the Sandoz Family Foundation, Parmigiani was able to begin creating original pieces, and the brand now boasts a rich 25 years of watchmaking.

Pascal Coyon

Based in the south-western French port city of Bayonne, Pascal Coyon worked as a watch and clock repairer before he embarked on an ambitious goal of creating his own chronometre wristwatch offered at an affordable price point. He was a student of the famed Lycée Edgar Faure in Morteau, which has produced many of France's best watchmakers.

Patek Philippe

Patek Philippe, the blue chip of the industry, has long been seen as the  premier manufacturer  of haute horlogerie timepieces. A Patek Philippe reflects a certain discretion and quiet satisfaction in the wearer, preferring  tastefulness and subtlety , with no pretense. Ranging from a simple, time-only Calatrava, to the ultra-complicated  perpetual calendar chronograph , there is certainly a Patek Philippe for everyone.

Paul Gerber

One of the earliest AHCI members, Paul Gerber began crafting watches in his Zurich workshop in 1976. His work is a spectrum of traditional aesthetics and strikingly modern style, entirely made by hand. Alongside his own creations, Gerber has also worked on pieces such as the Louis Elysée Piguet Grande Complication, at one time the most complicated wristwatch in the world, in addition to helping Ludwig Oeschlin develop and prototype the MIH watch, an annual calendar with just nine parts.

Gaël Petermann and Florian Bédat 's story, from meeting at the Geneva watchmaking school to working closely with Dominique Renaud of Renaud Papi, then gradually building their brand’s vision, is one of partnership and collaboration. A Collected Man is honoured to be the exclusive European retailer for the independent watchmakers. If you would like to be notified about future projects, please  register  your interest. To find out more about Petermann Bédat, you can watch  our film  with the young watchmakers.

Based in his atelier in la Vallée de Joux, Switzerland,  Monsieur Dufour  is a master of grand complications, basing  his designs  on the traditional movement architecture and artistic expressions of the Vallée de Joux from 1850 to 1920. With a  long-stretching career  and recent record-breaking auction result, Philippe Dufour is the undisputed king of finishing. Learn more about the  Grande et Petite Sonnerie , the most expensive wristwatch ever sold publicly by an independent watchmaker  here . A Collected Man is the approved re-seller of pre-owned  Dufour Watches .

Spanish watchmaker Raúl Pagès was born in La Chaux-de-Fonds, and at the beginning of his career as a watchmaker, he worked in restoration with Parmigiani Fleurier and Patek Philippe, before moving on to start his own brand in 2010. His early experiments included automations, while his first watch was the Soberly Onyx, based on a vintage CYMA movement. The RP1 Régulateur à Détente was his first piece created entirely from scratch, and in 2024, he won the inaugural LVMH Independent Creatives prize for his work.

A combination of the words renaissance and essentiel, Ressence is a young, independent brand with a unique approach to contemporary watchmaking. Their motto “Built on the expertise of yesterday, crafted with today’s technology, our watches are designed for tomorrow” - very much speaks to this, innovative identity. Founded by the Belgian industrial designer, M. Benoît Mintiens in 2010, all of the brand’s watches carry ever-changing regulator dials, in which the sub-dials and main-disc continually orbit one another.

Richard Mille

Founded by Monsieur Mille in 1999 in collaboration with the famed movement manufacture Audemars Piguet Renaud & Papi, Richard Mille has demonstrated from the very beginning their taste for experimental, high-tech watches. When they released the RM001 tourbillon in 2001, it was just a hint of where the brand would progress over the subsequent decades, taking inspiration from the worlds of Formula One, aerospace and automotive research. With their motto of “a racing machine on the wrist" in mind, Richard Mille's designs reinforce the concept of performance, while innovation remaining at the core of the brand's identity, both in watchmaking and in materials-science.

Roger Dubuis

In the '80s, Roger Dubuis left Patek Philippe to establish his own workshop, dedicating himself to the restoration of older pieces. In 1995, following a partnership with businessman Carlos Dias, he would establish his own eponymous brand. Dubuis' attempt to rival Patek Philippe themselves became one of the reasons for his acclaim – his pieces channelled the traditional Geneva watchmaking that Patek Philippe embodied with more stylistic flair.

Roger W. Smith OBE is recognised as one of the greatest watchmakers of the modern era. The only apprentice and collaborator of the late Dr. George Daniels, they worked on a number of projects together, from the Millennium series to tourbillon wristwatches. Roger W. Smith has since become the flag bearer for English watchmaking, building on the work of his mentor, but also on past luminaries like Tompion, Graham, and Arnold.

Romain Gauthier

Romain Gauthier’s entry into watchmaking was somewhat unconventional. Despite his upbringing in the Vallée de Joux, he initially chose to pursue his love for music and musical equipment as an area of study. Gauthier then pivoted, studying precision mechanics and then machine-tool construction. Whilst still at François Golay SA, Gauthier developed his first movement, which he worked on for over two years, using his employer's machines in evenings and weekends. He then went on to launch his eponymous brand, with guidance from other independent watchmakers such as  Philippe Dufour .

As the son of jewellery designer Pentti Sarpaneva, and nephew of the internationally acclaimed designer and artist Timo Sarpaneva, it was always the case that Stepan’s career would take a creative direction. Educated at the Finnish School of Watchmaking and then WOSTEP, Sarpaneva was formed in Helsinki, Finland, in 2003. Inspired by his time at manufactures including Piaget, Parmigiani, Vianney Halter and Christophe Claret, Stepan demonstrates his passion for the craft in each watch to come out of the workshop.

Speake-Marin

Peter Speake is an English watchmaker whose career spans the UK and Switzerland. Starting out at Somlo Antiques, Speake became a specialist restorer of antique and vintage timepieces. Between 1996 and 2000 he worked for Renaud et Papi in Le Locle Switzerland, after which he developed the brand Speake-Marin with Daniela Marin. He remained active with the brand until 2017, then spent another 5 years in horological education. In July of 2022, Speake established PS Horology.

Thomas Prescher

Located in Ipsach, Switzerland, Thomas Prescher was a naval officer before he decided to become a watchmaker. He spent some time at Audemars Piguet, IWC, and Gübelin, and was the director of production at Blancpain. He founded his independent brand in 2002, and has become known for his work with tourbillons, as well as his unique commissions for clients.

Ulysse Nardin

Created in 1846, Ulysse Nardin has always been inspired by seafaring, creating chronometres of both the marine and pocket variety in these early days. After the Quartz Crisis, the brand was then revived in 1983 by Rolf Schnyder, former Jaeger-LeCoultre executive, and watchmaker Ludwig Oechslin, before becoming a subsidiary of the French group Kering in 2014. The association with seafaring has remained a constant, with the brand often serving as the official supplier to navies around the world.

Urban Jürgensen

Urban Jürgensen have a rich and varied history, dating back to the late 18th Century. The manufactures namesake, Urban Jürgensen (1776-1830), along with his father Jürgen Jürgensen have long been credited with introducing the watch industry to Denmark. Shortly after the birth of his son in 1776, Jürgen Jürgensen moved to Le Locle in Switzerland to work with Jacques-Frédéric Houriet, laying the foundations for a Danish-Swiss connection which still exists over 240 years later. 

Urwerk is an award-winning watch brand based in Geneva, Switzerland, and is known for its avant-garde designs and new indications and complications. Founded in 1995 by watchmaker brothers Thomas and Felix Baumgartner (Thomas Baumgartner left in 2004) along with the artist and designer Martin Frei, they have quickly become a leader in innovative independent watchmaking.

Vacheron Constantin

Vacheron Constantin  boast a lengthy and uninterrupted history of manufacture, dating back to 1755. The firm’s founder, Jean-Marc Vacheron, was one of many cabinotier-watchmakers who specialised in the production of  complex components . Upon partnering with François Constantin, Vacheron (the brand) became widely known for upholding the finest horological traditions - enamelling, piercing, engraving and engine-turning.

Vianney Halter

From a young age, Vianney Halter was fascinated by mechanics, science fiction, and space exploration. He enrolled in the Ecole Horlogère de Paris, at the age of fourteen, and after graduating, spent the subsequent decade restoring vintage clocks and watches. Halter was then invited to join THA Èbauche, a collaborative movement manufacture, by F. P. Journe. In 1998, Halter unveiled his first watch, the Antiqua, whose futuristic aesthetics cemented the style which Halter has come to be associated with since.

Voutilainen

After a period spent restoring some of the finest watches from the last three centuries, Kari Voutilainen became an independent watchmaker. His work has been welcomed with great acclaim, on account of its  unique aesthetic and quality . Every component in his watches involves manual labour, from adjusting tolerances to polishing and angling. His efforts have been recognised with more than  a half dozen awards  from the GPHG (Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève).

Helmed by Bernhard Zwinz, a watchmaker highly regarded amongst fellow independent makers, his work is produced under the name of his Austrian compatriot, 19th century watchmaker J.TH. Winnerl. We are great admirers of Zwinz’s craft and his dedication to perfection. Creating his watches entirely by hand, his experience and talent holds the promise of many exciting projects to come.

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The Art of Movement Finishing

February 2024

The philosophies of Stephen McDonnell

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The philosophies of Felix Baumgartner and Martin Frei

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An Introduction to Gem-Setting with Pierre Salanitro

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The Evolving Craft of British Watchmaking

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A Collector's Guide: Patek Philippe 3800 Nautilus

August 2020

A Collector's Guide: Asymmetrical Watches

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What Is Independent Watchmaking?

Discovering Bernhard Zwinz

An Afternoon with Raúl Pagès

A Brief History of De Bethune

The Watchmaking Journey of Kari Voutilainen

September 2021

The Art of Dial Finishing

Has Minimalism In Watch Design Gone Too Far?

The Bare Bones Of the Skeletonised Watch

Rediscovering the Romance of Travel Clocks

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What Made the Royal Oak a Cultural Icon?

Can We Compare Art and Watches?

October 2021

Why Does Provenance In Watches Matter?

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A Potted History of Japanese Whisky Collecting

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George Daniels the Collector

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Patek Philippe Aquanaut Travel Time, 5164A-001, Stainless Steel

This an example of the first complicated Patek Philippe Aquanaut* to have been created. The Aquanaut Travel Time reference 5164A-001 combines a practical second time zone within the casual aesthetic typical of the Aquanaut piece, elevated by day and night indicators for both time zones it tracks. A subsidiary pointer date at 6 o'clock further establishes this reference as one of the most useable travel companions.

Worth Reading

While the Nautilus marked Patek Philippe’s departure from the traditionality it was known for, the Aquanaut was an even bolder step in that direction, combining a stainless-steel case with a geosphere motif dial and rubber strap. The Aquanaut Travel Time reference 5164A-001, revealed in 2012, elegantly incorporated a useful complication to this recipe, in a first for the sports-inspired line.  

The 40.8mm stainless-steel case, that features alternating brushed and polished surfaces, has two pushers rising from its midcase that can be used to advance or move the main hour hand back in one-hour jumps. This is so the wearer can quickly set the local time on arrival at a new destination. Corresponding to this local time zone is a blue and white day- and night-time indicator, located between 8 and 9 o’clock. The winglet-style pushers find their visual counterpart in the flared midcase that houses the signed crown, giving the case a balanced countenance.   

A second hour hand, devoid of luminous material and hollowed out for visual distinction, tracks a second, home time zone. This hand can be manipulated using the crown and features its own day and night indicator between 3 and 4 o’clock. The dial can be simplified when the wearer isn’t travelling by overlapping home and local times, thereby giving the appearance of a simple three-hand watch face. In addition, the reference 5164A-001 features a useful subsidiary pointer date at 6 o’clock. The dial furniture, including the Arabic numerals and the hands are crafted from white gold. The hour hand that tracks home time is treated entirely in white, again to the aid of time-reading. Around the Arabic indices runs a chapter of printed minutes with broad hour markers filled with luminous material.

The watch is powered by the calibre 324 SC FUS, which is based off the calibre 324 SC, with an added module. The 324 SC can also be found within the 5711 Nautilus. Viewed through the sapphire caseback the movement is beautifully decorated with Geneva stripes across the rotor, topped with the engraved Calatrava cross. The movement bears the Patek Philippe seal.

The geosphere motif is echoed in the black uncut strap that culminates in a double deployant clasp. The clasp is beautiful in its simplicity – instead of employing complex mechanics, it deploys when the wearer applies pressure on two points in its S-shaped architecture.

The watch comes with its full set of paperwork and box.

If sold within the United Kingdom, this Patek Philippe Aquanaut Travel Time will be subject to 20% VAT

Specifications

Closer look.

This Patek Philippe Aquanaut Travel Time is in excellent condition throughout. The case and lugs show virtually no signs of wear and are likely only worn on a handful of occasions, if at all. Superficial marks, most likely from handling, are found on the brushed portion of the bezel at 8 o'clock and only on the very surface of the material. The dial, hands, and movement are free from any signs of imperfections. 

The watch comes with a two-year warranty from A Collected Man, alongside a lifetime guarantee of authenticity.

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We stand by the quality of all of our pre-owned watches and mechanical objects. If something goes wrong, we’ll always strive to remedy the situation in a timely manner and to the best of our ability. The satisfaction and trust of our clients is of the highest importance, to everyone at A Collected Man.

All of our pre-owned watches have undergone thorough, non-invasive mechanical inspections and have been serviced, if appropriate, to ensure that they meet our highest standards of timekeeping and functionality.

Our pre-owned watches, unless stated otherwise, are covered by either a full or a limited twenty-four month warranty . This excludes any damage sustained due to improper use or accident. Due to their age, some pre-owned watches should not be subjected to the same conditions as when new.

Any of our pre-owned watches which have been serviced by their respective manufacturer, will carry the manufacturer’s servicing guarantee. This is separate and supersedes, the standard warranty offered by A Collected Man. Please see our Terms & Conditions for further information. You can write to us directly at [email protected] , for further clarification.

A Collected Man is also an authorised retailer for a number of watchmaking brands. These watches are covered by the warranty from the original manufacturer.

We offer complimentary worldwide delivery on our watches. If ordering from overseas, delivery will depend on the value of the timepiece and the destination. All import taxes and duties are the responsibility of the buyer.

If ordering from the UK before 1 PM, your watch will be sent the same working day. The courier will depend on the value of the watch, with all watches delivered the next working day.

Please note  that pre-owned goods (in the United Kingdom) are subject to a marginal rate of VAT, which can not be reclaimed. For further information, please see   here . 

Our full terms & conditions can be found here.

The amount shown on our website does not include local tax rates. If this item is delivered to, or picked up from, a UK address, the standard rate of 20% VAT will be added at checkout. Otherwise, you will be responsible for paying local sales taxes and import fees.

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A WATCH FOR MODERNITY

Further reading.

Understanding the Aquanaut, Patek Philippe's Most Versatile watch

By russell sheldrake.

We take a look at arguably the sportiest Patek Philippe watch ever made...

We breakdown the mid-sized Nautilus and see how it varied over its 25 year production run...

How Collaborations Shaped the Watch World

By randy lai.

It's hard to escape them in the watch world, so we wanted to take a look back at the history of collaborations in the watch world and how they have made a difference over the years...

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Patek Philippe Aquanaut 5164A-001 Tiffany & Co. 'Travel Time'

Contact Us: (212)422-2600

This Patek Philippe Aquanaut 'Travel Time' is designed in a 40mm stainless steel case featuring a black embossed dial with luminous white numerals. Take note of the 'Tiffany & Co.' logo sitting on the dial beneath 12 o'clock, as it represents a long history of luxury collaborations between the two brands. The dial is protected by a sapphire-crystal case back and housed on a black rubber bracelet and Aquanaut fold-over clasp. Complications include dual time zones with day/night indicators, making this timepiece the perfect travel companion. 

Description

Introducing the Patek Philippe Aquanaut 5164A-001 'Travel Time', a sophisticated timepiece designed to accompany you on your global adventures with style and precision. Crafted in a 40mm stainless steel case, this watch exudes sporty elegance and versatility.

The black embossed dial is adorned with luminous white numerals, ensuring optimal legibility in any lighting conditions. Complications include dual time zones with day/night indicators, allowing you to easily track time in two different locations simultaneously.

Protected by a sapphire-crystal case back, the intricate mechanism of the caliber i324 S C FUS is revealed, showcasing Patek Philippe's commitment to precision engineering. With a power reserve of up to 45 hours, this watch is ready to keep pace with your busy lifestyle, whether you're jet-setting across continents or navigating your daily routine.

Styled on a black rubber bracelet with an Aquanaut fold-over clasp, this timepiece offers both comfort and security on the wrist. With its combination of functionality and aesthetic appeal, the Patek Philippe Aquanaut 'Travel Time' is the perfect companion for the modern traveler who demands both style and substance in their timepiece.

We are an independently owned and operated business with boutique locations in New York, Miami, and Beverly Hills. Feel free to stop by either location. If you aren’t finding what you’re looking for, please contact us. We wholeheartedly believe that every first-time buyer will be a client for life.

Free Insured Domestic Overnight FedEx Shipping is included in the price listed. We ship internationally. International customers are responsible for the cost of shipping along with the custom taxes and/or duties of the receiving country.

All of our watches are backed by a 1-Year Limited Warranty on the movement of the watch. The warranty does not cover loss, theft, minor cosmetic damage, or water damage to your watch. Any damage caused by negligence or mishandling of the timepiece is not covered.

Products are usually delivered in 1-2 Business days.

New York Location 19 E 62nd St. New York New York, NY 10065 (212) 422-2600 Open Monday - Friday 10 AM - 6 PM

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Authorized Retailers

United States

Find your Patek Philippe authorized retailer or official showroom near United States with our store locator.

Please note that if a retailer's name is not found in this database, they are not an Authorized Patek Philippe retailer.

• Australasia
• Middle East
• Cayman Islands
• China Mainland
• Czech Republic
• Hong Kong SAR China
• Korea, Republic of
• Liechtenstein
• Macau SAR China
• Netherlands
• New Zealand
• Philippines
• Russian Federation
• Saint Martin
• Saint-Barthélémy
• Saudi Arabia
• South Africa
• Switzerland
• Taiwan Area
• United Arab Emirates
• United Kingdom
• Virgin Islands, U.S.
• Alessandria
• Baton Rouge
• Beverly Hills
• Bloomington
• Bournemouth, Dorset
• Carmel-by-the-Sea
• Channel Islands
• Ciudad de Guatemala
• Cortina d’Ampezzo
• Davos-Platz
• Forte dei Marmi Lu
• George Town
• Gran Canaria
• Grosse Pointe Woods
• Guadalajara
• Ho Chi Minh City
• Kansas City
• Keitum Sylt-Ost
• Kuala Lumpur
• Les Berges-du-Lac
• Mülheim an der Ruhr
• Northern Ireland, Belfast
• Oberstaufen
• Palma de Mallorca
• Philadelphia
• Philipsburg
• Porto Cervo
• Puebla City
• Reggio Emilia
• Royal Tunbridge Wells
• Salt Lake City
• Santa Clara
• Short Hills
• Southampton
• St-Petersburg
• Stratford Upon Avon

Washington DC

Find a retailer List of retailers

*Maintenance available  -  **Authorized Service Center

Altier Jewelers

701 So. Federal Highway

FL 33432 Boca Raton

Tel.: +1 561-395-3462

Directions (via GoogleMap)

www.altierjewelers.com

239 Greenwich Avenue

CT 06830 Greenwich

Tel.: +1 203-869-0124

www.betteridge.com

Brown & Co. Jewelers

674 Holcomb Bridge Road

GA 30076 Roswell

Tel.: +1 770-993-1080

www.brownjewelers.com

South Coast Plaza 3333 Bristol Street

CA 92626 Costa Mesa

Tel.: +1 714-850-0222

www.tourneau.com

175 Worth Avenue

FL 33480 Palm Beach

Tel.: +1 561-832-8812

Bucherer TimeMachine *

12 East 57th Street

NY 10022 New York

Tel.: +1 212-758-7300

CH Premier Jewelers-Valley Fair

2855 Stevens Creek Boulevard, Suite 1251

CA 95050 Santa Clara

Tel.: +1 408-983-2688

chpremier.com

de Boulle, Inc.

6821 Preston Road

TX 75205 Dallas

Tel.: +1 214-522-2400

www.deboulle.com

River Oaks District 4444 Westheimer road Ste., A168

TX 77027 Houston

Tel.: +1 713-621-2400

Edmund T. Ahee *

20139 Mack Avenue

MI 48236 Grosse Pointe Woods

Tel.: +1 313-886-4600

www.ahee.com

Fourtané

NW Corner of Ocean Ave at Lincoln St.

CA 93921 Carmel-by-the-Sea

Tel.: +1 831-624-4684

www.fourtane.com

Geary's *

360 N. Rodeo Drive

CA 90210 Beverly Hills

Tel.: +1 310-887-4250

www.gearys.com

Govberg Jewelers

1529 Walnut Street

PA 19102 Philadelphia

Tel.: +1 215-546-6505

www.govbergwatches.com

Hamilton Jewelers *

92 Nassau Street

NJ 08542 Princeton

Tel.: +1 609-683-4200

www.hamiltonjewelers.com

Hamra Jewelers

15435 North Scottsdale Road #130

AZ 85254 Scottsdale

Tel.: +1 480-946-5110

Kerns Jewelers

214 Lorton Avenue

CA 94010 Burlingame

Tel.: +1 650-348-7557

www.kernjewelers.com

Kirk Jewelers

Brickell City Centre 701 South Miami Avenue, Level 3

FL 33131 Miami

Tel.: +1 305-371-1321

www.kirkjewelers.com

Lee Michaels Fine Jewelry

7560 Corporate Boulevard at Bocage

LA 70809 Baton Rouge

Tel.: +1 225-926-4644

www.lmfj.com

Liljenquist & Beckstead Jewelers *

1798M Tysons Galleria, 2001 International Drive

VA 22102 McLean

Tel.: +1 703-448-6731

liljenquistbeckstead.com

London Jewelers *

1988 Northern Blvd

NY 11030 Manhasset

Tel.: +1 516-627-7475

www.londonjewelers.com

London Jewelers

1200 Morris Turnpike, Suite A-206

NJ 07078 Short Hills

Tel.: +1 732-380-4800

Long’s Jewelers

7 Newbury Street

MA 02116 Boston

Tel.: +1 617-421-8600

www.longsjewelers.com

LV Luxury Jewelers *

The Shops at Crystals, 3720 S Las Vegas Boulevard #122

NV 89158 Las Vegas

Tel.: +1 702-665-8882

www.lvluxuryjewelers.com

O.C. Tanner

15 South State Street

UT 84111 Salt Lake City

Tel.: +1 801-532-3222

www.octannerjewelers.com

Patek Philippe Boutique - Miami Design District

4000 NE 2nd Avenue

FL 33137 Miami

Tel.: +1 305-482-1916

boutiques.patek.com

Polacheck’s Jewelers *

4719 Commons Way, Suite E

CA 91302 Calabasas

Tel.: +1 818-225-0600

polachecks.com

Razny Jewelers *

1501 West Lake Street

IL 60101 Addison

Tel.: +1 630-932-4900

www.razny.com

Razny Jewelers

109 East Oak Street

IL 60611 Chicago

Tel.: +1 312-663-8500

The Diamond Cellar *

6280 Sawmill Road

OH 43017 Columbus

Tel.: +1 614-336-4545

www.diamondcellar.com

Tiffany & Co. *

727 5th Avenue

Tel.: +1 212-605-4036

www.tiffany.com

Tiny Jewel Box *

1155 Connecticut Avenue, NW

Tel.: +1 202-393-2747

www.tinyjewelbox.com

220 Nichols Road

MO 64112 Kansas City

Tel.: +1 816-531-5800

www.tivol.com

Turgeon-Raine, Inc.

1300 Fifth Avenue

WA 98101 Seattle

Tel.: +1 206-447-9488

turgeonraine.com

Watches of Switzerland

3131 Las Vegas Boulevard South

NV 89109 Las Vegas

Tel.: +1 702-792-0669

www.watchesofswitzerland.com

Watches of Switzerland, Hudson Yards

20 Hudson Yards RU#115A

NY 10001 New York

Wempe Jewelers *

700 Fifth Avenue

NY 10019 New York

Tel.: +1 212-397-9000

www.wempe.com

Windsor Jewelers *

6809-D Phillips Place Court

NC 28210 Charlotte

Tel.: +1 704-556-7747

www.windsor-jewelers.com

Wixon Jewelers, Inc. *

9955 Lyndale Ave. South

MN 55420 Bloomington

Tel.: +1 952-881-8862

www.wixonjewelers.com

G-11 Waterside Shops 5555 Tamiami Trail

FL 34108 Naples

Tel.: +1 239-592-7707

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