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Botswana's deserts, pans and deltas are some of the last great, untouched wildernesses in Southern Africa. With vast expanses of diverse terrain and a thriving ecosystem like no other on earth, Botswana is undoubtedly one of the best safari locations in the world.  A self-drive safari through the vast and varied landscapes, combined with an awe-inspiring spectacle of wildlife, is an unbeatable experience. From the unforgiving Kalahari Desert and the extensive Makgadikgadi salt pans to the riverbanks of Chobe National Park, nature lovers will be spoilt for choice. Pristine African wilderness. ‍ The National Parks in Botswana are extremely protected. They only allow for a small number of lodges, tented camps, and campsites to be built. This means that there is a huge amount of demand for a small number of properties, so you need to book early to get your first choice properties – we advise a year in advance if possible. ‍ Whether you be camping under the stars with your vehicle, or exploring the floodplains of the Okavango Delta by mokoro, be prepared to be amazed.

Generally wet and humid near the Delta. However, a good time to visit the Central Kalahari.

Like January, it's wet and humid near the Delta but less wet in the Central Kalahari.

Often dry and sunny days, though still wet and luscious. A good time for birding.

Another fresh, green month with less rain.

Much less rain and routes start to open up. A good time to benefit from shoulder season rates and less tourists.

The start of the peak season as the land dries. Little rainfall and low temperatures at night.

Conditions start to reach their best. Very cold evenings.

Game viewing conditions reach their optimum. Lovely weather.

Temperatures starts to pick up. Conditions still perfect.

Temperatures still climbing and the terrain starting to look very dry.

An unpredictable month depending on whether the rains are early or late.

The rains return to dry lands.

What to see

Okavango Delta

The Okavango Delta is the worlds largest inland delta system. Either way you look at it, be it by car, boat or plane, it is simply incredible!

Chobe National Park

Our favourite Botswana National Park, Chobe offers everything from ants to elephants! The game viewing is superb, all year round too.

Central Kalahari Game Reserve

Renowned for its panoramic views and growing lion population, the Kalahari is a very desirable place to travel. It's also best travelled between December - May.

The Makgadikgadi

Situated over the lowest lying areas of Botswana, the Makgadikgadi is home to two magnificent salt pans. The view from here takes your breath away.

Moremi Game Reserve

Located on the periphery of the Okavango delta, the Moremi is home to a huge array of wildlife. A few nights here and you will feel like you were in the Delta itself.

The Savuti Channel has a fascinating history of flooding and drying up sporadically - a mystery that has intrigued geologists for years. It is also a wildlife hotspot!

Quad Biking in the Makgadikgadi

Mokoro Trips

Okavango Delta Helicopter Flight

Riding Safari

Popular routes.

The Kalahari Circuit

Desert & Delta

Luxury Botswana

Classic Botswana

Scroll to discover, botswana journal entries, enquire about botswana, something else to inspire.

All our itineraries are tailor made, but here are some of our favourite routes and camp combinations.

The Himba Trail

Andalucia's Hidden Gems

Italy's Stylish Lakes

Wonderful Wales

Romania's Untouched Wilderness

Ireland's Wild Atlantic Way

Iceland's Mystical Circuit

Family Namibia

Advice From Our Journal

Travel with Confidence

Mammadu Trust: Help Needed

The Himba Trail; a guided self-drive into the Kaokoland

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Simply, because we care. Our expert team - both in the UK and Africa - work collectively to make sure you have a fantastic holiday. Importantly, we don't outsource any part of our service so we can ensure the correct level of quality and service is delivered.

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Your entire holiday is designed around your requirements. We will create the perfect trip, at your own pace, to your budget.

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The Ultimate Botswana Self-Drive Safari Itinerary: A Complete Travel Guide + Map

December 15, 2023

Paula Martinelli

If you are dreaming about an adventure trip to Botswana, and wondering how to go on safaris, you are in the right place! Going on a Botswana self-drive safari is the best way to discover the country! This is the Ultimate Botswana Self-Drive Safari Itinerary that will take you to the removed, isolated, and wild parts of the country…and the best way to experience Botswana’s landscape and wildlife are by road trip.

I combined my Namibia trip itinerary and Botswana self-drive safari itinerary, and I am here to share all I have learned and discovered along the way.

In this very detailed Botswana Self-Drive Safari 10-day itinerary, I covered the most important regions and safaris in Botswana, from Chobe National Park to the Okavango Delta.

During my 10-days in Botswana, I self-drove my 4×4 rental truck to the most amazing safaris in Botswana, I slept in the tent on top of the truck, cooked all my meals, took thousands of photos, and learned all about how to explore Botswana independently (not an easy task!).

Don’t travel to Botswana before you read these very important articles:

• 28 Things You Must know about Self-Drive and Camping in Botswana
• Ultimate Guide to the Best Safaris in Botswana
• Botswana Camping Safari

Botswana Self-Drive Safari itinerary Overview

10 days doing a self-drive safari in Botswana is an ideal amount of time to discover the best safaris in Botswana and to visit the most incredible areas in the country.

However, it is not easy to self-drive in Botswana because of the poor road conditions. Also, if you are short on time, you can spend less time and concentrate on the Chobe River Front safari, as it is very well located in the country. You can fly into Kasane Airport (BBK) and you can pick up your 4×4 rental car at the airport .

Check Expedia or Skyscanner to see which airlines can take you to Botswana and compare prices to get better deals. If you are looking for domestic flights to Kasane you can book them through Air Botswana .

Here is an overview of how to spend a perfect 10-day self-drive safari in Botswana:

Botswana Self drive Safari Map

Renting a Car for your Botswana Self Drive Safari

You will need to have a 4×4 vehicle to go on a self-drive safari in Botswana . It can be confusing renting a car in Botswana since there are different providers, offering different options.

First of all, you will need to decide if you will rent a 4X4 truck or a 4×4 truck with a tent on top (if you are planning to camp around the country).

I recommend booking your car way in advance , and you can quote below, to have access to cars from many major companies which you can compare the best prices and find the best deal for you.

You can save on your rental car when you book through this site . I use and recommend Discover Cars because it is the most reliable rental car source, and it allows you to compare the prices of different plac es.

10-Day Botswana Self Drive Safari Itinerary

Day 1 botswana self drive: arriving in botswana.

Let’s start day 1 of my 10-day Botswana self-drive safari itinerary. I had spent the previous 10 days self-driving in Namibia and it is a great itinerary to combine Namibia and Botswana. I crossed the border to Botswana on the ground at the Ngoma border crossing  in the Caprivi Strip.

I got my Botswana Visa at the border checkpoint. There was a line, and it took about 1-hour to get my visa and pass the inspection of my car and food. The procedure was easy and uncomplicated!

Even better, I had the chance to make new friends while I was in line. I met this very nice couple from Zambia that were traveling home. They asked if I could give them a ride to the Zambia border which was on my way to Botswana. 

DRIVING THE CAPRIVI STRIP

The driving from Namibia to Botswana on Caprivi is one straight line all the way to the border. You will pass many villages, plenty of cows and people walking on the side of the road.

I stopped along the road to donate all my food (meat, fruits, and vegetables) as we cannot enter Botswana with food.  It is a great opportunity to get to know some local people, and also, they will appreciate you sharing the food with them.

STOP AT KASANE FOR SUPPLIES

Next, I stopped in Kasane to refill my gas tanks (the truck had 2 gas tanks), got someand money from the ATM, bought food and water – This is the last opportunity to refill before you head to the National Parks.

BEST ACCOMMODATION OPTIONS

CAMPING OPTION

Mwandi View is the place i stayed and recomend. They have areas for camping in your own tent, or you can rent one of their large tents, with private bathroom and a small kitchen. The views are incredible and you can see animals from the infinity pool. Restaurant with incredible food is avaialbe.

LODGE OPTION

The Residence Kazungula is a marvelous guest house located in Kasane, with free Wi-Fi, parking on-site, a complete kitchen, and a pool. They can also arrange a variety of activities including game drives, boat cruises, and day trips to Victoria Falls. 

ALL-INCLUSIVE OPTION

If you are looking for a great accommodation option, with all-inclusive, the Jacklberry Chobe is the best option. With drinks, meals, and 2 wildlife activities per day included, plus terrace and gorgeous views of the river

DAY 2 BOTSWANA SELF DRIVE SAFARI : Explore Chobe National Park

On day 2 of my Botswana self-drive itinerary, I spent 10-hours driving safari at Chobe National Park . 

SELF-DRIVE SAFARI AT CHOBE RIVERFRONT

Chobe is one of the best places for a safari on the Planet, and I really recommend spending at least 2 days here .

Even if I had done other safaris before, this is the most I have seen animals in one single day: hundreds of zebras, waterbok, giraffes, springboks, and of course elephants. 

The best spot to see the big cats, including lions is at the Ihaha Camp . I drove in the morning and afternoon but didn’t get lucky enough to see any.

SEE THE LARGEST HERD OF ELEPHANTS IN THE WORLD

At around 1:30 p.m. I stopped to see a herd of elephants at a waterhole close to the Elephant Grave when more elephants arrived from everywhere and I was surrounded by hundreds of elephants. This was the highlight moment of my trip to Chobe . 

Back to the Mwandi Camp to enjoy the sunset from the infinity pool, while watching some elephants at the waterhole, cook dinner, and crashed from this tiring day.

DAY 3 Botswana Itinerary: Self-Drive Safari at Chobe then Drive to Savuti

On my second and last day of self-drive safari at Chobe National Park , I started my day very early (5 a.m.) and enjoyed 5 hours of safari.

GO ON A RIVER CRUISE SAFARI AT CHOBE

Another specialty and a must-do are to go on a river-cruise safari .  This is a must-do activity at Chobe National park as you can see the wildlife from a boat is totally different experience than from a car. During the water safari, you have the chance to see hippos, crocodiles, and f you are lucky you can also see elephants swimming.

DRIVING OFF-ROAD TO SAVUTI

After lunch, I began my journey south through Chobe to my next destination: Savuti. There are no gas stations or stores until you exit Okavango Delta. Make sure you are full-on fuel, water, and food before leaving Chobe (Kasane town).

The driving to Savuti was very challenging (and scary) and it is not for the faint-hearted! I only recommend self-drive here if you are a very experienced driver and have some basic mechanical knowledge because things can, and will happen to the car.

The “road” is very isolated, and only a 4WD can drive here. The “roads” you will follow are nothing more than dirt roads and trails. At times you will follow some old tire tracks through grass fields, and other times you will be driving through deeply rutted sandy “roads”. You cannot drive on a rainy day (or wet season). I drove for 7-hours without seeing another car. I had 1 flat tire and had to change it on a very deep sandy road and got stuck on the sand a couple of times. The speed limit is around 15km/h and you will be driving very slowly on very bumpy roads.

TOP TIP: If you are going on a self-drive in Botswana, most of the driving will be off-road. I recommend carrying a backpack as it will protect your belongings on bumpy roads. Check here the Review on Top Backpacks on the market today.

ARRIVAL AT SAVUTI

Arrived at the remote Savuti Gate and I had to pay for my entry permit – it costs US$85 for 3 days of the game reserve. The only way to enter the Savuti Gate (and all other gates) is to have proof of camping reservations. 

I finally arrived at the Savuti Camp near dark, found my reserved camping spot, and cooked dinner. The camping staff came to warn me that it was life-threatening to be out of my tent at night because it is very common for hyenas and lions to visit the campsites at night.

I spent 2 nights at the Savuti Camp . All 14 campsites lie under shady trees while some have a view of the Savuti Channel. There is a large elephant-proof ablution with shared bathrooms and showers. The campsite is operated by SKL Camps.

If you are looking for a lodge at Savuti, Ghoha Hills Savuti has accommodations with free WiFi and free private parking for guests who drive. There’s a fully equipped private bathroom with a shower and free toiletries. The lodge offers a continental or buffet breakfast.

DAY 4 Botswana Itinerary: Self-drive Safari at Savuti

The Savuti is a region within the heart of the Chobe National Park that is secretly located. Savuti covers almost 5,000 square kilometers and includes the Savute Marsh and Channel, the Mababe Depression, and Magwikhwe Sand Ridge – each feature fashioned by the tectonic instability of the region.

It is the best place to spot big cats, including lions and leopards. It is also renowned for the masses of game, and it has its own unique scenery such as the Baobab Gallery trees and rock paintings. I recommend spending at least 2 days in Savuti. 

EXPLORE THE VAST WILDLIFE IN SAVUTI

Start your first day at Savuti doing what is the best thing to do, with a self-drive safari.

Start your day very early (before 7:00 a.m) as the chances to see active animals are higher. I started my first day seeing a lion eating his kill and it was a pretty amazing experience to just park my car very close, behind the bushes, and just observe, smell, and hear while he was enjoying his breakfast.

During my day of safari at Savuti , I saw many giraffes, springbok, and elephants. In the afternoon I visited the Baobab Trees and the rock painting.

I saw many bones of animals and mostly close to the campsite – which makes me think that predators hang out around campsites. At night I was visited by a very large hyena and I also could hear the lions roaring all night from a distance. Exciting!

VISIT THE ROCK PAINT AND BAOBAB TREES

Expend the afternoon exploring more of the Savuti beauty!

Savuti is not only about wildlife, here you can also find ancient art – search the rocks of the Gubatsa Hills for delicate, stylized paintings of buffalo, giraffes, the magical eland, and other animals. They were painted in natural ochres, blood, and possibly snake venom up to 1,500 years ago by the San people. They still shine despite being fully exposed to the elements.

Then, visit the incredible Baobab Trees. The baobab trees boast a circumference of around 7 meters (23 feet) and a height of around 5 meters (17 feet). Take some time out to reflect in the shade of the centuries-old trees, humbled by their large presence and the secrets that flow deep within their roots. Savuti is incredible!

DAY 5 Botswana Itinerary: Self-Drive Safari in Savuti, then Driving to Okavango Delta

Morning safari at savuti.

Early in the morning, I saw 2 lionesses with 9 cubs – 7 older and 2 younger. I heard from the locals that they live under the bush, and they were just enjoying the early morning sun. I parked my car, and took amazing pictures, and observed them for over 1-hour from a very close distance. They didn’t seem to be bothered by my presence. This was certainly one of the highlight moments of my trip to Botswana.

I saw many other animals during my second day of safari in Savuti, and even if I really wanted to see leopards, I had no luck seeing any. 

DRIVE TO OKAVANGO DELTA

After lunch, I started driving to the Okavango Delta and I drove all the way to the next camping site destination in Kawai . It was 3.5 hours of very bumpy and sandy road, and again, driving at a very low speed. 

Upon arrival at Khwai Gate you need to pay for the permit again;  remember to have cash with you as they don’t accept credit cards. 

The camping site is situated in an area called Dombo Hippo Pools, and guess what you can see a lot? You are right, hippos.

The Khwai Camping Site  is very basic. The camping site has a tree, running water, and a fire pit area, and a small ablution is available. The game views and bird watching in this area are superb. The campsite is operated by SKL Camps.

If you are looking for amazing luxury glamping in Botswana, O Bona Moremi Safari Lodge offers it all. All means, drinks, and laundry service are included plus all the game drivers and night drives.

VILLA OPTION

If you are looking for a great option, Khwai Villa provides accommodations with free private parking. All units come with a balcony with river views, a kitchenette with a fridge and an oven, and a private bathroom with a shower.

DAY 6 Botswana Self-Drive Safari: Okavango Delta Safari

Explore the khwai region.

The day of my self-drive safari in Botswana was exploring the Khwai region, part of the Okavango Delta. 

The Okavango Delta is like the crown jewel of safaris in Botswana , as this area is usually known for the abundance of water, stemming from the Okavango river – which starts in Angola – and is also dubbed “the river that never finds the sea”. Instead of ending in the ocean, the water seeps away into the Kalahari desert. 

I was up early and went on a long game drive to explore this region. There are large tracts of Mopane forest with pools and floodplains interspersed. I saw a lot of different animals including hippos, crocodiles, water buffalos, red lechwe, waterbucks, and blue wildebeest.

This area is challenging to drive, as there are deep mud pools on many of the trails and some wet areas that make it impossible to pass.

I spent 2 nights at the Xakanaka Campsite . This area offers many options for day trips, such as Khwai and Third Bridge. There are two boat stations close to the camping site. The camping area is very simple and is located by the water, that is the reason there are so many hippos on this campsite. An ablution (communal bathroom) is available. 

If you are looking for an all-inclusive lodge accommodation, the Khwai Experidtions Camp offers all meals, drinks, and game reserves. Located on a gorgeous facility with a patio with incredible views, including wild animals come to visit.

DAY 7 Botswana Self-Drive Safari: Okavango Delta Safari

I didn’t sleep very well, as the animals are very active at night around this area. I could hear lions and hippos, and I saw a couple of hyenas searching my campsite for food at night. The only thing the hyena found and decided to take with her was my sneakers…ha!

EXPLORE THE XAKANAKA REGION

After spending 2 nights at the Khwai Campsite, I moved on to another camping in the Okavango Delta, Xakanaka – so I could explore different areas.

The drive to Xakanaka took around 2-hours and it was also very challenging. The roads are rutted and winding. During the rains, it is almost impossible to drive, with some very deep waterholes on the road and the journey can take up to 4-hours.

The game reserve in this area is phenomenal – but a day doing a self-driving safari is exhausting – the vegetation is very dense and there are a lot of dead trees on the ground. Also, there are so many holes with water and mud, which makes the driving very challenging if you are trying to spot animals, take pictures, and drive. 

After a whole day of self-drive safari –  with a 1-hour break for a nap under a tree in the middle of the day – time to go back to the camp, cook dinner, and get some rest. 

While I was cooking, a hippo crossed right in front of me which left me speechless for a few minutes – “What was it? a hippo!?” Yes, it was a hippo!

DAY 8 Botswana Self-Drive Safari: Okavango Delta

Spend the morning driving at xakanaka.

\My day 8 of my self-drive safari in Botswana was spent driving around the Xakanaka area. 

Xakanaxa occupies a narrow strip of land surrounded by marshes and lagoons . At night you can easily hear the animals, especially elephants, or be serenaded by hippo grunts. 

This area is one of few offering a year-round land and water game-viewing experience, possible to explore by car or powerboats.

On a day of safari in this area , it is easy to spot a large variety of animals such as elephants, buffalo, hyena, giraffe, hippo, wildebeest, kudu, lechwe, and if you are lucky, lion and leopard, among many others.

DRIVE TO THE THIRD BRIDGE

After lunch, I head to my next camping destination, Third Bridge Campsite.

In a dry season, it is an easy drive but there was very deep sand after the 2nd bridge. Got to the camping, and this was my favorite campsite in Botswana because the location is absolutely gorgeous, just by the river and the wildlife is very abundant here. 

TOP TIP: Make sure you pack lots of water, as you will be very isolated in this part of Botswana. I thought I had enough water, but with the hit and humidity, I ran out of water 2 days earlier than I had planned and I had to boil water from the Okavango Delta to drink. It is smart to also pack some portable water filters.

I spent 2 nights at the Third Bridge Campsite . This campsite was my favorite during my self-drive in Botswana. It is an excellent choice as there are so many options for game drives and there is always animal activity in camp. There is a boat station at the camping site, making water activities extra options. Booking is through Xomae

DAY 9 Botswana Itinerary : Water Safari at Okavango Delta

1. morning safari at third bridge.

I spent the last day of my self-drive safari in Botswana doing the best thing you can do in Botswana: safari. The wildlife in this section of Okavango Delta is incredible for safari, and you feel all the time that you are truly amongst the wildlife.

At lunchtime, I was back at the campsite to skip the mid-day sun and cool down in the shade of the trees, while cooking lunch. When a herd of elephants had the same idea and I had to share my shade with them. It was a magical moment, and one of the highlights of my trip to Botswana. 

2. Water Safari at Okavango Delta

I took the afternoon to do a water safari and it was just incredible, I strongly recommend if you are visiting the Okavango Delta to go on water safari, as you will have a different view and will see so many different animals. I had the chance to visit the Hippo Pool, which is a lagoon with hundreds of hippos.

While on a water safari at Okavango Delta, it is the best option for bird-watching too. The tour took longer than planned – around 4 hours – because our boat broke and we had to ask for help.

In the evening, my campsite got visited by many hyenas and I spent my last night camping in Botswana and hearing the lions roaming. Absolutely fascinating!

DAY 10 Botswana Itineray: Return Back to Namibia

I woke up very early (as usual) and spent a few hours driving around on a self-drive safari before heading back to Namibia. 

I saw a large variety of animals just around the campsite, and I started to feel sad to leave Botswana. I certainly had one of the best trips of my life. Just being in the wild, surrounded by majestic animals, and enjoying the solitude of incredible nature. I truly recommend doing a self-drive safari in Botswana as once in a lifetime adventure. 

The drive back to Namibia was long but safe. The road conditions are mostly well-paved the whole way. 

I stopped for an overnight in Ghazni, as it was dark and it is not recommended to drive in the dark because of the wildlife on the roads. If you don’t have an extra day, I would recommend skipping the morning safari in Botswana and starting to head back to your departure destination. 

I spent another day and night in Namibia before I headed back home, as this was a great farewell from my amazing Africa trip! You can read here my full Namibia Itinerary if you are looking to combine your trip or continue your Africa Trip.

BONUS SECTION: The Unique Tourism in Botswana

Botswana has a very unique tourism industry, based on a sustainable tourism model. Botswana relies on a  low volume high revenue tourism strategy , and it serves as an example all over Africa and the Planet. In other words, it is not cheap to visit Botswana!

The business model in Botswana helps the local economy and assists with keeping balance in the fragile ecosystem and controlling the number of tourists. Higher prices help to support this sustainable system of tourism in Botswana.

TRAVEL BOTSWANA INDEPENDENTLY: If you choose to travel independently to Botswana, keep in mind that the planning will take time and (a lot of) patience. It took me about 3 months of hard work to plan my itinerary in Botswana, especially, to be able to book all the campsites. Communication with Botswana is challenging and it may take days, or even weeks to answer back to you. Plus, consider that you will be driving in very remote and isolated areas. You will need to have some basic mechanical skills (changing tires), and expertise in driving off-road (mud, deep sand, crossing water, etc.).

TAILOR-MADE TRIP IN BOTSWANA: A popular alternative to visiting Botswana is to hire an expert local company. They can incorporate any destination into your travels or even any animal species that you hope to see. You can create a bespoke itinerary, and design your ultimate safari to match your interest, budget, and travel dates. I highly recommend Wild Wonderful World , as they put together incredible itineraries, and part of the profits are used on amazing conservation efforts in Africa

I have great news for my readers, I used and I recommend Wild Wonderful World – I partnered with them to offer a discount to you! Just sign in below to receive a discount code directly in your email.

Botswana Self-Drive Safari | Trip Planning Resources

Planning a trip to botswana.

If you are going to travel to Botswana, pre-planning, researching, and understanding what you are looking for in a destination will help make your travels far more successful and safe. Here is some further information I think you might need to plan your Botswana self-drive safari itinerary.

For planning my trip to Botswana I used the Lonely Planet guidebook, which contains helpful information.

Best Time to Visit Botswana

The best time to visit Botswana is during the dry season between May and October when you can expect warm, sunny days (22°C-35°C) and chilly nights. This is also when the water levels in the Okavango Delta are at their highest, creating the waterways and channels Botswana is famed for.

The green season – from November to April –  is a great time to travel if you don’t mind the odd shower. Visitor numbers and prices are lower, the scenery pops with verdant foliage, and animals give birth to their young.

What to Pack for a self-drive safari in Botswana

You want to pack light….but at the same time, you will be so remote for many days that you will want to pack heavy. So, let me help you PACK SMART! 

• GPS and a good Botswana map . 
• Extra flashlights and batteries 
• A well-equipped First Aid kit (including a snake bite kit)
• Rehydration solution
• Satellite phone
• Inflatable LED Solar Lantern. 
• Bring a warm blanket for cold nights.
• Camera and safari lens
• Toilet paper
• light hiking pants
• long sleeves shirts
• good face cover
• polarized sunglasses
• Hand sanitizer
• LifeStraw Filtered Water Bottle and Emergency water supply
• External battery charger

PACK SMART ALERT!

If you are planning to carry a backpack for your trip to Botswana, I have compiled a very detailed review of the Best Backpacks for Travel in the market today – Also, I recommend bringing a waterproof jacket for your trip, check my complete review guide on the Top Jackets for Travel and pack smart!

Airports in Botswana

Botswana’s main airport is  Sir Seretse Khama International Airport (GBE) , located 11km/7miles north of Gaborone, the capital.

If you are flying from South Africa, you can take a direct flight from OR Tambo International Airport (JNB) , Johannesburg, or Cape Town International Airport (CPT) .

It is also common to fly into Maun Airport (MUB) and  Kasana Airport (BBK) . When combining a safari in Botswana with a visit to Victoria Falls, it is common to fly into Maun and depart from  Victoria Falls Airport (VFA) in Zimbabwe or  Livingstone Airport (LVI) in Zambia.

Borders of Botswana

Botswana is bounded by  Namibia  to the west and north (the Caprivi Strip),  Zambia  and  Zimbabwe  to the northeast, and  South Africa  to the southeast and south. The Zambezi River border with Zambia is only several hundred yards long. The point at which the borders of Botswana, Namibia, Zambia, and Zimbabwe meet in the middle of the river has never been precisely determined.

Price to Travel to Botswana

When you travel to Botswana you can easily spend 1,000 to 2,000 Dollars per day/ person. This kind of money will bring you to some of the most exclusive lodges, and to areas that aren’t accessible any other way, including private flights to the lodges. Of course, you can plan your self-drive safari in Botswana and save tons of money – which will force you to do a lot of planning yourself. 

Prices below are the average for 10-day for 2 people (it doesn’t include international flights):

Accommodation in Botswana

Keep in mind that booking wild campsites in Botswana is extremely challenging and requires lots of patience and persistence.

I have done all the work and wrote this very detailed guide for Camping in Botswana – with all the best options for accommodations.

The campsites in Botswana are run by different private operators, The gates and reception have booking agents, but I strongly advise you to reserve your accommodation before your trip to Botswana, as the number of campsites is limited. You will be turned away if no space is available, and you will have a long trip back to the nearest town.

Things in Botswana move much more slowly than I am used to. The booking in Botswana is a very manual process, still, carbon copy receipt based rather than Internet bookings. Please read everything you should know before you go camping in Botswana before you make any reservations. 

If you are planning to stay at lodges, Booking.com  is the best option as it is a reliable source and they have a 24-hour cancellation policy that I have used several times.

Renting a car in Botswana

You will need to have a 4×4 vehicle to go on a self-drive safari in Botswana , either if you decide to go with a tour operator, or if you decide to go on an independent adventure.

Request a quote and save on your rental car when you book through this site. I use and recommend Discover Cars because it is the most reliable rental car source, and it allows you to compare the prices of different places.

Self-driving in Botswana

Self-driving in Botswana can be a challenge depending on your level of experience but also depending on the season.

I recommend you rent a fully equipped 4×4 car, preferably with a GPS with camping sites and other important GPS coordinates pre-programmed. This will help guide you to stay on track and be able to orientate yourself, ensuring your drive will be a safe one for you and your close ones.

You can always ask one of our staff members for advice on what routes are recommended at the moment since this might change from one part of the year to another. Remember; in the African bush anything is possible so coming prepared and aware are factors that can help your drive be a successful one that will give you, your friends, and family memories for life.

Additional Tips for your Self-Drive Safari in Botswana

• Currency: The local currency in Botswana is Pula. They widely accepted South African Rand. You can use an ATM in one of the main towns. Always carry money with you, as most places do not accept credit cards.
• Fuel:  on long drives pick up fuel regularly in the major towns as there can be long distances between stations.
• Supplies:  Snacks and drinks are available at most of the fuel stops and the bigger towns had a well-stocked Spar Supermarket. 
• Maps/GPS: Download maps onto your phone which can be accessed offline. Also, keep a paper map in the glove box just in case!
• SIM cards:  it’s easy to pick up a pay-as-you-go SIM in the airports as well as in local mobile network stores.
• Internet: If you are planning to go on a mobile camp safari, note that you won’t have access to the internet. I spent 10 days in Botswana without internet access. 

Travel Insurance for your trip

I never leave my home without travel insurance which is designed to help cover your expenses if something goes wrong on your trip. Things can go wrong, and you don’t want to get stuck paying tons of money if you get sick or have an accident without travel insurance. 

World Nomads Travel Insurance  has been designed by travelers for travelers, to cover their trip essentials. Especially if you are like me, travel insurance is ideal for adventurous travelers. Travel smarter and safer – You can do your quick quote below and find out how little you can pay for the essential benefit of Travel Insurance for your next trip!

Botswana Self Drive Safari Conclusion

This is my very detailed Botswana Self Drive Safari Itinerary, and I hope this can help you to plan your Botswana Trip!

I have done other safaris in Africa before, but Botswana surpassed my high expectations. Nature, the diversity of wildlife, and the hospitality in Botswana made it an incredible trip.

Botswana is not a cheap destination to visit, therefore if you want to visit on a budget just like me, be prepared to have to start planning your trip well in advance in order to book your accommodation (good luck with that!), book your car and start to study the maps, since you will be driving on very remote and isolated areas. You need at least to feel somehow familiar with the region you will be driving. 

I truly recommend anyone to go on a trip to Botswana, and if you are convinced, continue reading as I prepared the whole BOTSWANA TRIP PLANNING section here for you!

Here is some further information I think you might need to plan your  trip:

• 21-Days Namibia and Botswana Self-Drive Road Trip Itinerary
• Namibia self-drive road trip Itinerary
• 28 Things you need to know before you go Camping in Botswana
• The Best Camping Safari in Botswana

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Plan your Trip

You can plan your trip with this easy guide and have access to the best services I recommend and you can get discounted prices.

Ultimate Botswana Camping Safari Guide (for Independent Travelers)

Namibia & Botswana Itinerary: Ultimate 3-Week road trip from the Dunes to Safaris

Camping in Botswana: 30 Things You Absolutely Need to Know!

28 thoughts on “the ultimate botswana self-drive safari itinerary: a complete travel guide + map”.

Such an amazing drive and so impressed you did a self drive! I visited here on tour and it was such an amazing country!!!

Wow! What an amazing experience! I totally would love to do this one day and I like how detailed your blog post is. Hoping to go in the near future. 🙂

This drive looks amazing! I’m always hearing that Botswana is one of the best places to experience Safari in Africa, moreso than the typical Kenya or Tanzania. I can’t wait to plan a visit! Thank you for sharing.

This is such a complete post with its itinerary and other details that nobody would want anything else! Thank you very much for this. It’s just a matter of time, and people would start traveling again. 🙂

This is so cool! Beautiful photos and Botswana sounds like a great experience for a self drive safari. Botswana just got a place on my list on where to take an safari in Africa.

What a great self drive adventure through Botswana and such a detailed post. BTW, I never look as lovely and glamorous as you when I have traveled through parts of Africa! 😉 I normally end up being covered in dust.

These pictures make me want to go on safari!!! I can’t believe you drove over that bridge. What an amazing adventure.

Absolutely stunning pictures and amazing itinerary. I can’t imagine how much work went into planning this trip but I’m sure it’s helping many others interested in taking a similar adventure in the future!

Wow! what a great and detailed post! Oh how I would love to visit Botswana and do a self-driving tour

HI Marika, I hope that one day you get to go on a self-drive in Botswana. It is so incredible and unique, a real adventure.

What nice feedback Michelle, thank you so much. Yes, it was a lot of work planning as I couldn’t find much information for an independent trip to Botswana and the booking process was a lot of planning and hard work to be able to schedule.

I know, right?! Ha… That bridge. Now looking at my pictures and remembering all the adventures I went through during this trip, is insane and I am so thankful I only had some minor problems with this trip.

I love it Alma…haha…believe me, I was so dirty on these pictures too. My hair is always braided for a reason, and my boots were so dirty and dusty at the end of the trip that I didn’t even want to pack them back in my backpack. I am so glad you enjoyed this post.

HI Cosette, thanks for reading and I am so glad you enjoyed this itinerary. I so hope you get to travel to Botswana, you will absolutely love it.

Thank you so much for your kind comment, I hope this itinerary helps a lot of people who dream about self-drive independent to Botswana. I cannot wait to be able to travel safely again.

Hi Jade, glad you enjoyed this post. Oh, Botswana is simply incredible for safari and you really feel that you are super isolated the whole time, only sharing the wild with the gorgeous animals. It is just an incredible feeling.

Thanks Taylor, glad you enjoyed it. I so hope you get to go to Botswana too.

The self-drive is not an easy task in Botswana, that is the reason I was honest to say that I don’t recommend it unless you have great off-road skills and some mechanical. I am sure you had an amazing time in Botswana, it is amazing, isn’t it!?

Que fotos mais maravilhosos, que lugar de tirar o folego, acredito ter sido uma experiência única. Parabéns, o blog está ótimo, a viagem super detalhada e muito descritiva. Obrigada por com partilhar…

Obrigada Patricia e fico feliz que gostou desse artigo.

Hey Paula, I just wanted to say thank you for sharing your adventure experience. I’m originally from Tanzania and now I live in New York now. I run a tour company here in the USA bringing American to Tanzania. Trying to expand my business to other parts of Africa and Botswana clicked my head from reading your self drive experience in Botswana!

Hello Protus, thanks for your comment and I am glad you found my article about Botswana. This place really holds a special place in my heart, and I cannot wait to go back to Africa. Tanzania is very high on my bucket list.

We are going in december and are very nervous about the road conditions between Kasane and Maun – would you be able to share some images of the worst parts you’ve crossed to give us an idea?

Hello – it will depend on the weather conditions, as you will be driving between towns and also, off-road. I got lucky because when I visited Botswana it was not raining and I could drive off-road to many “roads” where normally you cannot drive if it is raining. If you see my pictures, you will see a lot of deep sand where you can only drive if you have a 4×4 vehicle appropriate for off-road, but if you are driving during the rain, you will have to cross the same roads on the mud or even water ponds.

Thanks for all your research and your effort in documenting everything in detail! We have read everything and planned the entire self-drive safari according to your itinerary, only in reverse order (from Maun to Kasane). Do you have any tips on how to plan the individual days? How to explore a certain area around a camp? How to plan the boat trips? And do you still consider your itinerary perfect or would you have liked to stay longer or shorter in a particular camp/area?

Below is what we have booked for the fall:

Wednesday Maun Thursday South Gate Friday Third bridge (depending on availability) Saturday Third Bridge Sunday Xakanaka Monday Xakanaka Tuesday Khwai Wednesday Savuti Thursday Savuti Friday Mwandi Saturday sleep in Kasane, but explore Ihaha and Chobe river during the day

Hello Bastiaan – I am so glad to hear that my itinerary is helpful and you are using it to help to plan your trip. When I planned my trip to Botswana it took me around 3 months to put this itinerary together, as they are not a lot of information on the web, and there is no road to follow. Have you checked my other blogs about Botswana? I have great advice on how to explore each safari area, and also, how to plan your camping safari, in case you are camping along the way. Or if not, I also give great recommendations on places to stay. Check these other articles, and if you still have any questions, please let me know: https://www.paulapinstheplanet.com/botswana-safari-chobe-okavango-delta/ and this one should be good too https://www.paulapinstheplanet.com/botswana-camping-safari/

Hi Paula, I didn’t see your reply until now. Thanks for responding! We have read all your blogs on Botswana and have everything booked according to your itinerary (camps, vehicle, days at each location). Just one question we have is how to make the most of the day trips from the camps? Did you use local maps or did you randomly explore and hope to find good spots for game viewing?

Hello Batiann – That is so nice my blogs about Botswana helped you to plan your trip, it is not an easy task as it is remote and doesn’t have much information on Botswana on the web. Now, how you can make the most of your trips from the camps, buy a Lonely Planet book about Botswana (this is what I used and was very helpful) and I bought the maps at the entrance of the National Parks in Botswana where you can see main spots to visit and see wildlife. Other than that, just drive, drive, drive and you will see a lot anyways. It is very wild and the chances to see wildlife are high anyways.

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Self-Drive Holidays in Botswana

Travel independently on your self-drive road trip safari

• Self-Drive Safaris & Tours

Accommodations

• What to Expect

Your self-drive adventure in Botswana

Explore Botswana on an epic road trip and travel at your own pace on your 4×4 self-drive holiday in one of the most wildlife-rich countries in Southern Africa. You will make your way through wilderness areas, visit some of the most iconic attractions and enjoy warm hospitality at personal camps and lodges. We book your reliable 4×4 rental car and put together an itinerary that will see you visit the popular sights as well as some of the best kept secret spots. While you drive independently and at your own pace, you can join guided activities such as game drives and boat cruises along the way. So you’ll get the best of both worlds.

What makes us the right choice

You will enjoy a smooth trip from start to finish.

Booking with us is not more expensive than doing it on your own.

You will be welcomed as guest, not just a room number.

Best botswana self-drive safaris & tours.

Highlights of Namibia and Botswana

Places Kalahari, Sossusvlei, Etosha NP, Okavango Delta, Chobe NP, Victoria Falls

from 6,470 USD per person sharing

Highlights Windhoek to Victoria Falls

Places Sossusvlei, Etosha NP, Zambezi Region, Chobe NP, Victoria Falls

from 2,800 USD per person sharing

CHARMING AND INTIMATE ACCOMMODATIONS IN BEAUTIFUL LOCATIONS

On Botswana self-drive holidays you will spend the night in lodges, tented camps or guesthouses. We have visited all accommodations ourselves before including them in our itineraries and suggesting them to you – so we know that you will be welcomed warmly and enjoy an amazing stay. The focus when choosing accommodations is on a personal and friendly atmosphere, attention to detail and excellent service. Just as important are accessibility and location, so you can easily reach your home away from home after a long day on the road and take in the stunning nature around you. In some cases, the camps are so remote we will organise a boat or fly-in option and you can safely park your rental car at a designated spot. If you know of one or several favourite camps you’d like to stay at, we will gladly include these in your itinerary.

Our partner accommodations are small and personal with a focus on hospitality and situated in stunning locations, like the Rra Dinare Camp in a private conservancy adjacent to the Moremi Game Reserve.

Standards range from basic to highly luxurious, with unique styles and facilities. This is the caged swimming pool at Chobe Bakwena Lodge right on the Chobe River.

Some of the camps and lodges are so remote you will need to park your rental vehicle and cruise in by boat or fly in by small aircraft. The Nxamaseri Island Lodge in the Okavango Delta is only accessible by boat.

At camps and lodges you can expect the same standard and similar facilities to a hotel, with the difference that you’re in the middle of nature, like at the Mogogelo Camp outside Moremi Game Reserve.

You can participate in the activities offered by your camp, ranging from sundowner drinks in stunning locations, game drives, walking safaris, boat cruises and more.

What to expect on a self-drive safari

A self-drive safari in Botswana is a big adventure, we’ll make sure you know what to expect before you go. As the name suggests, on a self-drive holiday you will be driving yourself from one destination to the next. Along the way, you’ll visit exciting attractions , participate in fun activities and learning experiences and get to know the country an its people. You travel in a 4×4 rental car that is equipped to get you safely and comfortably from A to B. You will be staying at personal tented camps, lodges and guesthouses within the national parks and conservancies or just outside. Your accommodations offer activities you can book such as game drives, boat cruises or bush walks.

How to plan a self-drive holiday: Spend less time worrying, researching, and comparing, and more time living the experience

Planning a road trip can be lots of fun – or time-consuming, confusing, and nerve-wracking. When planning and booking with us, we’ll make sure it’s the former. After confirming the basics such as number of travellers, duration, and budget, your personal travel expert will ask you about your expectations, bucket list must-dos and general preferences for your self-drive safari. They will then put together a proposal including a detailed itinerary, accommodations, and driving distances. You can get involved as much or as little as you like. Once you’re happy, we will book your rental car as well as accommodations and share useful information with you to prepare you for your trip.

The best part: Benefiting from our expert advice and booking with us won’t cost you more than doing all the work of planning and organising yourself. We receive a commission from camps and lodges and can offer you the same rates you will receive when booking yourself. Plus the added and invaluable benefit of having an expert by your side. Our travel experts have visited the lodges and camps, driven the routes themselves and experienced the different activities. They will advise on the most magical spots where it’s worth staying an extra night. If you don’t want your travel plans ending on a dreaded to-do list, chat to our experts who will take the planning off your hands. All that is left for you is to look forward to your trip!

Cross-border self-drive tours: Botswana, Namibia, South Africa & Victoria Falls

Botswana’s location is ideal to combine your self-drive holiday with a visit to Namibia, Zambia, Zimbabwe as well as South Africa. You can cross the border in your rental car and either return to your starting point or return the car in an alternative bigger city once your trip comes to an end. On crossing-border self-drive tours, you have the advantage of visiting the most famous sites of Southern Africa all in one trip: from the Victoria Falls to the Okavango Delta to the Namib Desert. What an epic trip! Driving distances should not be underestimated though. If you would like to add South Africa’s Kruger National Park to your itinerary, you should plan sufficient travel days or choose a fly-in option.

Who should go on a self-drive safari in Botswana

If you prefer to travel at your own pace, stop along the way whenever you see something exciting and want to travel with your friends and family only, a private guided safari or a self-drive tour is the best travel style for you. Self-drive trips have the added benefit of enjoying ultimate privacy and the excitement that comes with going on an adventurous cross-country road trip.

Self-drive holidays in Botswana and its neighbouring countries will inevitably include some long days in the car and hundreds of kilometres covered in one day. While we make sure you have enough time to step out of the car and enjoy your surroundings, you should be prepared for long driving distances on gravel road. Therefore, you should be a confident and experienced driver to enjoy a self-drive trip safely. Knowing how to change a tire is another important skill to have!

Many Botswana trips focus on safari and the wildlife experiences for which the country is so famous. If you are planning to go on self-drive game drives in Botswana’s remote national parks and wilderness areas, you should have at least some off-road driving experience. Alternatively, you can join game drives organised by your camp and benefit from the driving skills and experience by your local guide. Guides know the national parks like the back of their hands, have extremely well-trained eyes to spot wildlife and know how to safely navigate large herds of elephants and buffaloes. This way, you will get the best of both worlds: the self-drive as well as the guided experience.

Interested in Guided Safaris?

Have a look at our guided tours, if you want to get to know Botswana together with a local guide.

Experience Botswana with us

Speak to one of our local advisors, let's start planning your trip.

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Wanderlust Movement | A South Africa Travel Blog

The Perfect Self-Drive Botswana Itinerary for an Epic Safari Trip

September 12, 2019 by Lauren Melnick

Last Updated on March 5, 2024 by Lauren Melnick

When my friend Melanie told me about her plans to go to Botswana, my eyes lit up, my heart started pounding, and my hands got a wee bit sweaty.

I hadn’t been to Botswana since 2015 ( omg where has the time gone?! ) when I travelled overland from South Africa to the Vic Falls Carnival New Years Eve Festival .

But I had only had enough time in the country to see dusty roads and drive past small towns.

Since then, I’ve been daydreaming about exploring the Kalahari , going on game drives through Chobe National Park , driving through the Makgadikgadi Pans and spending a night in the Okavango Delta .

Suffice to say, it didn’t take much to get me to add my name to her road trip roster.

Before long, we had whipped up an epic week-long Botswana itinerary that included some of the country’s top safari destinations.

Here’s my 4×4 self-drive Botswana itinerary for an epic safari trip!

Table of Contents

Travel Tips for Your Botswana Itinerary

The best time to travel to botswana, tips for renting a 4×4 vehicle for botswana, what to pack for botswana, things to remember, where to stay in nxai pan national park, activities at nxai pan national park, day 5: one more game drive & drive to maun, day 6: go on an overnight mokoro safari, day 7: fly or drive back to south africa, activities in chobe national park, victoria falls.

Money: Before you leave South Africa or fly in from your home country, make sure you phone your bank and authorise your bank card for international travel. There are ATMs available in Gaborone, Maun, Francistown and other small towns along the way. Most restaurants, tour companies and hotels will let you pay by card, but you’ll still need some cash on you for smaller purchases.

Malaria: If you’re planning a holiday in Botswana during the wet season, it’s a good idea to speak to your local travel clinic about getting malaria pills. For safari trips in the dry season, the risk is much lower. But you’ll still need to cover up in the evenings and use mosquito repellent .

Plugs: I’m happy to report that all of the hotels (and Gabarone Airport) we stayed at in Botswana had South African plugs! If you’re visiting from Europe or America, the country also uses plug types D and G.

Wildlife Safety: Please, please, please DO NOT get out your car when you’re inside a national park. During our trip to Nxai Pan , we were watching two lions in the distance when another vehicle pulled up, and the passenger got out of his car to take photos of some elephants. Just because you can’t see a predator doesn’t mean there aren’t any around you.

Travel Insurance: While Botswana is the second safest country in Africa, you still need travel insurance. From protecting your camera gear (especially if you’re renting a decent lens) to cancelled flights, take out a policy with World Nomads . The company specialises in covering travellers for all kinds of adventure activities, and you can claim online from anywhere in the world.

World Nomads provides travel insurance for travelers in over 100 countries. As an affiliate, we receive a fee when you get a quote from World Nomads using this link. We do not represent World Nomads. This is information only and not a recommendation to buy travel insurance.

Botswana is one of those destinations that has something special to offer no matter when you plan your safari.

If you want incredible wildlife sightings and to boost your chances of seeing the Big Cats, book your trip to Botswana for the dry season. From May to September, Botswana experiences hardly any rainfall, driving the animals to congregate around the dwindling water holes.

The famous Okavango Delta floods from June to October. If a mokoro safari on the delta is on your bucket list, this is the best time to go!

But if you want a wildly different experience, plan your Botswana road trip for the wet season (November to April). The dry, arid landscape is transformed into an emerald green wilderness.

The rains are usually short-lived, and you’ll get to see plenty of newborn animals and migratory birds!

Read More:  The Best Time to Visit Botswana: What You NEED to Know

You Need a High Clearance Vehicle: Botswana’s roads aren’t in the greatest condition for normal cars. Although it’s totally possible to plan a Botswana road trip without a 4×4 ! But if you want to explore Nxai Pan National Park and some of the other destinations on my Botswana itinerary, you’ll need a high clearance vehicle.

Choosing a Car Rental Company: If you’re travelling from South Africa , choose a rental company that will let you pick up your car in Johannesburg and drop it off at an airport in Botswana. This is useful if you want to save time by flying back home instead of driving.

Border Crossings: Use the Stockpoort port of entry to get into Botswana. It’s a super quiet border (the trucks can’t use it), and it took us less than 10-minutes to go through immigration on both sides.

Paperwork and Costs: When taking your vehicle over the border, you’ll need your registration paper and letter of insurance. You’ll also need to pay the border crossing fee in cash . We paid P216 (R291 / $19 USD).

Petrol: Petrol is cheaper in Botswana than in South Africa. If you want to save money, plan to fill up your tank once you cross the border.

Download the Tracks4Africa App: Tracks4Africa is a GPS map for Africa that works offline. It’s essential if you’re planning a road trip in Botswana. Even if you have a local sim card, you aren’t guaranteed signal.

Sunscreen: The sun is harsh in Botswana. You’re going to be spending a lot of time outside on safaris and driving. If you want to avoid that one arm sunburn and turning into a hot tamale, lather up on 30+SPF sunscreen that’s vegan and eco-friendly.

After Sun: If you’re one of those people that doesn’t think they need forgets about sunscreen or burns super easily, pack a bottle of After Sun to help you get through the pain.

Sunglasses: Protect your eyes from the sun’s rays. If you’re South African, I recommend checking out Escape Society’s range! Their glasses are affordable and polarised. My favourite pair is the Gold Vintage Round Lens . It comes with 100% UVA/UVB Protection and a microfibre pouch & cleaning cloth.

Broad Brimmed Hat: If you followed my South Africa road trip in June, you’d know that I bought a gorgeous hat only to have it snatched off my head at the Valley of Desolation (how fitting). Luckily, I found the SAME hat before my Botswana trip. I’m once again the proud owner of the Morgan Emthunzini Hat . It’s a bit of an investment, but the hat is UPF 50+ and is CANSA approved.

Camera: For my trip to Botswana, I shot all my photos on my Canon D700 with my Sigma Art 18-35mm lens and my kit 75-300 lens. If I could go back, I’d hire the Canon 100-400mm F4.5 for the trip. But I’m still stoked with how my photos came out. I only wish they were a bit sharper as I struggled with the lack of stabilisation.

Warm Jacket: You’ll need a warm jacket for morning and evening game drives. I always pack my parka jacket for safaris, and it hasn’t left me shivering in the cold yet!

Comfortable Shoes: For walking safaris in Botswana, you’ll need a pair of closed walking boots . For everything else, a pair of comfortable sandals will do the job.

Neutral Clothing: Think beige and khaki. You want to blend in seamlessly with the bush.

Read More:  The Ultimate Road Trip Essentials Packing List (+ Free Checklist!)

7-Day Self-Drive Botswana Itinerary

Day 1: Drive from Johannesburg to Nata Lodge

Alright, day one is all about setting 4 AM wake up calls and squinting while brushing your teeth because your eyes aren’t ready to start working so early.

The drive from Johannesburg to Nata Lodge is 10-hours. You’ll want to pack plenty of snacks and get the car ready to go by 5 AM. It’s the only way to avoid the hell that is Johannesburg rush-hour traffic.

Once you make it over the border, there’s a tar road all the way to Nata Lodge. The only snag? Botswana has a single lane highway.

Use the Stockpoort port of entry . Why? Trucks can’t use it because the bridge is only big enough for regular ‘ol cars. That means the entire border crossing process will only take a couple of minutes because no one else will be there. I’m serious. There was no one else when we arrived. We were stamped out of South Africa and into Botswana in under 15 minutes.

You can’t take fresh produce over the border. If you want to snack on fresh fruit, vegetables, meat or cheese, you’ll need to buy all that good stuff in Botswana. If border patrol inspects your car and finds your contraband, someone else is going to be enjoying your lunch.

You can only pay for your car in cash. The Botswana border had a card machine, but it wasn’t working. Don’t count on it working when you arrive. Come prepared with cash. There is a currency exchange office, but the rates won’t be great. Try to get some Pula before you arrive.

Day 2: Nata Bird Sanctuary and Salt Pans Safari

You might be wondering: “ Why should I stay at Nata Lodge? What’s so special about this place? Can’t I stay at a backpackers or another hotel? ”

You can, but you’ll be missing out on a pretty epic experience.

Nata Lodge is situated in the Makgadikgadi Salt Pans and is a short drive from the Nata Bird Sanctuary. Inside the sanctuary is a massive salt pan that fills up during the wet season and attracts THOUSANDS of flamingos and pelicans!

If you stay at the lodge, you only need to pay entrance to the bird sanctuary. The lodge also includes game drives to the salt pans if you don’t feel like driving yourself and want a knowledgable guide at your side.

Unfortunately, the salt pans were as dry as the Sahara desert during our trip to Botswana. There wasn’t a bird in sight, but we still had a great time exploring the sanctuary.

We saw herds of buffalo and ostrich grazing in the distance and stayed for the sunset. We cracked open a few bottles of beer, drove onto the salt pans (something that you can’t do in the wet season) and watched the sun go down over the plains.

12/10 would recommend!

Entrance Fee: P100 (R135 / $9 USD) for non-residents and P35 (R47 / $3 USD) per vehicle.

Read More:  Staying at Nata Lodge in Botswana

Day 3: Drive to Nxai Pan National Park & Planet Baobab

Start your day with Nata Lodge’s delicious buffet breakfast. You can choose from a continental that features pancakes, scones, fresh fruit, muesli, cereal and yoghurt or you can get a classic breakfast with eggs done in your style of choice.

There aren’t a ton of options for vegans at Nata Lodge. If you’re plant-based and planning a self-drive safari in Botswana, bring all the essentials like soya milk, instant oats and anything else you like that isn’t fresh fruit.

Once you’re done stuffing your face, pack up your 4×4 and start the 5-6 hour drive to Nxai Pan National Park!

The road is tar all the way to the park’s gate – but be warned traffic cops are aplenty. Botswana also has some fancy-schmancy speed radar device that tells the cops how fast you’re driving before they see your car.

And yes, we did get a fine.

Along the way, you can make a quick detour to Planet Baobab . It’s a camp that’s famous for its massive baobab trees and stopping here is the perfect excuse to load up on some caffeine!

If you’re wanting to do a Botswana safari on a budget, stay at Planet Baobab . It’s one of the most affordable camps in the area.

Entrance: Free! Mahala!

At the entrance of Nxai Pan National Park, you’ll need to lower your tyre pressure for the sandy roads. The park is only accessible with a 4×4, and the roads are super corrugated.

That being said, you don’t need to be a 4×4 expert to drive through the park. But once you start driving, you can’t stop until you get to the second gate.

If you do, you’re going to find yourself stuck.

Entrance Fee: P120 (R162 / $11 per day) per day for a non-resident (for up to date rates contact Kwando Safaris )

Read More: Botswana Bucket List: 10+ Best Things to do in Botswana

Livin’ in Luxury: For a safari lodge experience that you’ll be raving about for years, book at least two nights at Nxai Pan Camp (though I highly recommend three if you have the time and the budget). It’s one of the best lodges in Botswana !

Ballin’ on a Budget: Nxai Pan National Park has two camping options for adventurous travellers. The first is the main camping area that has running water and ablutions. The second is informal camping by Baines Baobabs. There is NO water here. You need to bring your own, but the epic views are worth roughing it for a day or two.

Read More:  Staying at Nxai Pan Camp in Botswana

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Day 4: Explore Baine’s Baobabs and Go on Safari

For our trip to Nxai Pan National Park, we were lucky enough to spend two days at Nxai Pan Camp .

And boy, oh boy, did the lodge exceed my gastronomy expectations.

As a vegan, I’m used to my catering options being slim pickings when I travel. That was so far from the case at Nxai Pan.

The on-site chef whipped up vegan-friendly treats for my high tea and delicious plant-based meals for my lunch and dinner. I didn’t have to dip into my snack reserves once!

Game Drives: During our stay, we went on a full-day guided game drive, one evening guided game drive and a self-drive when we left. The park is home to 4 of the Big 5, and we were lucky enough to see a small pride of lions!

Baines Baobabs: Nxai Pan Camp includes a day trip to the legendary Baines Baobabs as part of your stay. It’s one of the best places to visit in Botswana. The trees were immortalised in paintings by Baine during his expedition to Victoria Falls with David Livingstone. The area is also popular with the elusive Oryx.

Bushman Walk: One of our guides from Nxai Pan was Shoes, a San bushman. On our last morning at the camp, he took us on a short walk into the national park to show us how the San lived in the Central Kahalari. We learnt how to make fire with two sticks, how to set a trap for guinea fowl and the many uses of elephant dung.

The Pool: The pool at Nxai Pan Camp deserves a special mention because it’s a couple of meters away from a watering hole that’s a firm favourite with the local elephants. Every day, without fail, a massive herd would arrive to splash around. If you have the time in your itinerary, spend an extra day poolside and watch the wildlife wander past with a cocktail in hand.

Wake up slowly and enjoy your last breakfast at Nxai Pan Camp around the fire. If you’re not too keen for the bushman walk, you can swap it for another morning guided game drive before you leave.

The drive from the camp to the park exit will take about 2-hours. Take your time driving back through the park, and you might have some last-minute sightings.

We saw a small pride of lions and watched a herd of elephants running up to the watering hole!

Once you reach the tar road, it’s an easy 4-hour drive to Maun.

Where to Stay in Maun

Sitatunga Camp: Sitatunga Camp is a gorgeous rustic camp 13km outside of Maun. You can choose to stay at the campgrounds, tented camps or the chalets. There’s also a swimming pool and an on-site restaurant. We spent one night here before our Mokoro safari and stayed in a tented camp.

Old Bridge Backpackers: We spent the night at Old Bridge after our Mokoro safari in the Okavango Delta and loved it! There are hippos and crocodiles chilling in a pool of water right in front of the backpackers. The WiFi is decent, and the restaurant has quite a few vegan options on the menu. Plus, you can get a private room for only P200 (R270 / $18)!

I don’t know about you, but safaris turn me into a little kid. Few things excite me as much as seeing elephants, big cats and other wildlife I never see in my day-to-day life.

A mokoro safari in the Okavango Delta has been at the top of my Botswana bucket list for years.

I mean, it’s pure magic.

Located in the Kalahari Desert, it became the 1,000 UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2014 and is home to an abundance of wildlife.

The best part?

You get to experience it without noisy car engines. You’ll sail down the sparkling lagoons, watch hippos grunt in the distance and elephants graze only meters away from you.

It’s a unique safari experience that you’re not going to get anywhere else in the world, and it’s worth every. single. penny.

We booked our Okavango Delta Mokoro Safari with Delta Rain , and I could not recommend them enough. We stayed at their camp for one night, and the staff took us on a walking safari where we got to see a herd of seven giraffes up close!

Overnight Mokoro Safari Cost Uncatered: $230 (R3385)

Overnight Mokoro Safari Catered: $300 (R4416)

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And just like that, you’re at the end of my one week Botswana itinerary. It’s time to pretend your bags don’t weigh more than 20kg pack your bags for the airport. Maybe sit on your suitcase for a bit and try squash in all the souvenirs you’ve collected along the way.

If you want to save time, I recommend hiring a 4×4 from a rental company that’s going to let you pick up the car in South Africa and drop it off at an airport in Botswana.

This way, you can catch a flight back home instead of doubling back.

A word of caution for those that choose to fly like we did, book a morning flight. Do not choose the layover in Gabarone and fly in the afternoon.

Never in my life have I experienced such a turbulent flight because of the hot air pockets. I prayed so hard, you guys. So hard.

Additional Adventures for Your Botswana Itinerary

Chobe national park.

Want to visit one of the best wildlife destinations in the world? Continue your Botswana road trip with a stop at the iconic Chobe National Park.

You’ll need to drive back to Nata Lodge (a seven-hour drive from Maun) to travel up to Kasane – the gateway to Chobe. There is another option to cut across to Kasane from Maun, but the road isn’t in great condition, and it won’t save you any time.

Once you arrive, you can choose to camp inside the park, stay in one of the luxury lodges or spend the night on a houseboat.

• Self-drive and guided game drives • Photographic safaris • Boat cruises

If you want to avoid paying vehicle fees to enter Zambia and Zimbabwe, you can book a day-tour to Victoria Falls – one of the 7 Wonders of the World!

It’s an easy way to add The Smoke That Thunders to your Botswana itinerary!

Most tours include the transfer to and from Kasane, but you’ll still need to pay separately to go into the falls. While a day trip is a great option for travellers short on time, it’s worth crossing the border if you want to do more than one adventure activity .

Entrance Fees for Victoria Falls: $30 (R441.00)

Read More:  A Quick Guide to Victoria Falls: Everything You Need to Know

So, with this massive Botswana travel guide in tow, I hope you’re ready to tackle a Botswana self-drive itinerary. I hope this post gave you plenty of inspiration for what to do and where to stay in Botswana!

Got questions? Hit ya gurl up in the comments below!

Want more Botswana travel tips? Check out my other posts:

• The Best Time to Visit Botswana: What You NEED to Know
• The Ultimate Botswana Bucket List
• Staying at Nxai Pan Camp in Botswana
• Staying at Nata Lodge in Botswana
• A Quick Guide to Victoria Falls: Everything You Need to Know

Did you find this post useful? Save it for later on Pinterest!

About Lauren Melnick

Lauren Melnick is the founder of Wanderlust Movement, Wander to Here and is a South Africa travel blogger. She's been travelling the world as a full-time freelance writer since 2016 and has visited over 40 countries.

When she isn't typing up a storm, you can find her conquering overnight hikes around the Western Cape, rock climbing, and hosting sold out group travel trips around South Africa, Namibia and Morocco.

Reader Interactions

May 26, 2020 at 1:54 pm

This information is lovely to read and very informative. any one would like to travel immediately when they read this. thank you

January 23, 2021 at 4:33 pm

I am definitely following this road trip of yours. Thank you for all the details and wonderful tips!!

January 29, 2021 at 2:18 pm

Hope you have an incredible time!

April 3, 2021 at 7:29 pm

Please give an estimate of the total cost of this trip excluding car rental and flight back to SA

April 3, 2021 at 7:35 pm

Hi! I did this trip in 2019, so prices won’t be the same. Your best bet is to contact the hotels and places you want to visit to get 2021 costs so your budget is as accurate as possible.

July 29, 2021 at 3:39 pm

Very informative article for all drivers. Thanks for the share.

February 1, 2022 at 10:56 am

Very useful info for all Self-Drivers thanks for share.

March 12, 2023 at 11:27 pm

Hi, Thanks for the info, everything seems really exciting!! I’ll be travelling with my sister in summer (we are 24 and 30). Is it safe ? Do you think there is a way to travel without a car but by bus (train?)…?

Do you think a 20days trip from Jobourg and back to Jobourg is recommended : – Mkgadikgadi – Victoria Falls – Chobe – Maun – (Central Kalahari)

Thanks a lot,

March 17, 2023 at 10:07 am

Safety is relative. Bad things happen everywhere in the world, so I can’t guarantee anything. But I’ve never felt unsafe in Botswana.

You could technically travel by bus, but you won’t be able to get anywhere beyond the major towns. For example, there are no buses to Mkgadikgadi. You’d likely only be able to get to Maun/Vic Falls. I’ve never used public transport in Botswana/Zimbabwe so I’m not sure on the routes and schedules.

I think 20-days for that is doable. You’ll just need to time it right and prepare yourself for long drives / checking conditions of the roads for the vehicle you’re using as well as the long waiting times at land border crossings.

March 19, 2023 at 12:23 pm

Thanks a lot again for your comment and infos. The best would be as you recommend to drop off the car on Botswana. Could you give me the name of the Company you found for that ? Thanks a lot !

January 31, 2024 at 2:33 am

Is this safe for single women. I’m travelling solo, really solo.

March 5, 2024 at 10:46 am

Botswana is one of the safest African countries, but as long as you have the skills to do everything yourself (like change a tyre etc.) you should be good. However, bad people are everywhere, so it’s always good to be cautious and practice common sense.

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Our   Self-Drive   routings are also suitable as a   Guided Safari   or   Fly-In Safari   and any of these safaris can be tailor-made into a regional itinerary by combining 2 or more other Southern African countries.

Please   contact us   for   quotations ,   availability   and   bookings   or if you would just like more information...

Please click on the  TOUR  in the list below to see the  Tour Itineraries  and Departure Dates.

Self-Drive Tours in Botswana   - Clients who are choosing to self-drive must please be made aware that travel in Botswana, Zimbabwe, and Zambia involves bad roads, thick sand roads, seasonal flooding, river crossings, vast areas with no communications, livestock and wild animals on the roads particularly at night, limited access to fuel and emergency services. Clients should always travel in a 4x4 with high clearance, preferably in convoy, and have a satellite phone and GPS. Travel should definitely not be undertaken after sunset and before sunrise.

As   Custom Design Safari Specialists   we can tailor-make any itinerary to suit your individual needs, interests and budget.

Our intimate knowledge   of the cultures, nature and history of the country together with our passion and dedication to service excellence has earned us the reputation of being leaders in tailor-made packages. We provide   full ground handling services , personalised ‘Meet & Greets’, services, detailed itineraries, maps, 'inside information' and most importantly, comprehensive backup services.

Our   Self Drive Tours   are merely suggested itineraries and therefore can be tailor-made to suit your specific needs.

• Routes  can be amended according to your preference
• Accommodatio n can be changed to suit your  style  and  budget
• Accommodation  meal basis  can be booked according to your requirements
• Extra nights  can be added depending on your arrival and departure flight times and the pace that you want to travel

Our reservation services are for free and by booking through us all costs are the same (sometimes even less) than booking with the lodges directly.

AN INDEPENDENT SELF DRIVE SAFARI VERSUS A GUIDED MOBILE SAFARI

Please note that these two styles of safari differ as follows:

Guided Mobile Safaris

Mobile safaris are led by a Tour Operator where guests are driven by a Professional Guide throughout their itinerary, generally camping and as the name suggests you move camp every 2 – 3 days to explore different areas. These safaris are generally camping, either from participatory and non-participatory safari and food and drinks are provided throughout.

Independent Self Drive Safaris

This is where the clients travel on their own by car to pre-planned destinations. This is an adventurous and slightly more flexible way to see Africa from the comfort of your own vehicle. Clients drive into very remote areas with no or little support, infrastructure and supplies.

Clients need to have the skills to navigate in the bush and to take care of yourself and others with you. Food drinks and other supplies are purchased in towns prior to travelling into wildlife areas in Botswana where there are no shops/facilities for eating out.

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Self-Drive Safari Botswana

Home » Africa » Botswana » Self-Drive Safari Botswana

By Vicky · Published Aug. 12th, 2022 · Updated Apr. 21st, 2024

When you buy through links highlighted with an asterisk (*) on this site, we may earn a small affiliate commission at no cost to you.

A self-drive safari is one of the best ways to explore Botswana. See below for planning tips, maps, itineraries, car rental and more.

Page Contents:

Botswana Self-Drive Safari Routes Map

A self-drive safari in Botswana with your own 4×4 is one of the best ways to explore the country.

A self-drive safari in Botswana involves driving between parks, camping within them and going on game drives from the campsite. Often an early game drive at first light, return to camp for a late breakfast, relax and read some books, before heading out again after the heat of the day has passed. Return at dark for a braai (barbecue). To get a full idea of what to expect on a self-drive safari, read the travel adventure book I wrote, No Footprints in the Night: On Safari in Botswana *.

How to Organise a Self-Drive Safari in Botswana

Tips for how to organise a self-drive safari in botswana.

• Get the Tracks4Africa Botswana * road map.
• Rent an equipped 4×4 * in Maun or Kasane or Gaborone.
• Don’t plan to drive too far in one day – you shouldn’t drive in the dark, some rental companies enforce a speed limit of 100 km/hr on the main roads, and on thick sand you might only drive at 15 km/hr.
• Spend an extra day between long periods in the wilderness to allow for delays, detours or car problems.
• Some key campsites such as Savuti and the popular Moremi campsites do get full so book these far in advance.
• It’s best to book all national park campsites and pay park fees in advance
• To save on banking fees get a Wise Card *, they have Botswanan Pula, very low conversion fees and you avoid ATM charges for your first several withdrawals per month.
• The parks are generally busier during South African holidays while Khutse Game Reserve gets busy on weekends.
• You’ll have down time in the middle of the day, find the best books to read while in Botswana .
• If you want to find out what it’s really like on safari in Botswana, read my book *.
• Make sure you have travel insurance * to protect you in case of holiday cancellations or lost luggage.

Organising a Self-Drive Safari in Botswana

On a self-drive safari in Botswana, the most important things to organise in advance are your vehicle and campsite bookings within the National Parks :

• Tips on renting a 4×4 car in Botswana
• Gear needed to equip your own 4×4 vehicle
• How to book campsites
• Best time of year to visit Botswana
• Best National Parks in Botswana

To decide which campsites you need to book you first need to decide how long you want to go for, when you want to go, where you want to go and plan your itinerary. The Tracks4Africa Botswana Map * is the best road map of Botswana and an essential planning guide. It shows all the roads and tracks clearly, along with distances, driving times and helpful annotations.

Below we suggest three itineraries for great self-drive safaris, exploring the north , the dry south and the central sections of Botswana. We also give tips about safety in Botswana and where to find supplies. For more specific details on places in Botswana, visit our individual articles:

Mabuasehube

• Khutse Game Reserve
• Central Kalahari Game Reserve
• The Botswanan Salt Pans
• Kubu Island

Makgadikgadi Pans National Park

Nxai pan national park.

• Moremi Game Reserve
• Chobe National Park
• Khama Rhino Sanctuary

Or, read an overview of national parks in Botswana , a guide to camping in Botswana (including fees, locations and how to book), our 45-day road trip through Botswana or what gear to bring on a Botswanan Safari. (coming soon)

Best time of year to Self-Drive in Botswana

The rainy season (or green season) in Botswana begins in November or December and ends around March. The months of highest rainfall are January and February. During these months tracks in some of the parks can get flooded and/or very muddy. However, it’s low season so there are fewer other people, the vegetation is green with life and it’s the best time in Botswana for bird watching. Because of the difficulty driving, if it’s your first time self-driving in Botswana then the rainy season isn’t the best time of year to visit.

The dry season begins in April or May and ends around November. As the dry season progresses, the country gets drier and drier. Vegetation shrivels, waterholes dry up and the animals flock to the remaining permanent sources of water – the Okavango Delta and Chobe Riverfront in particular. Additionally, from May to early November it hardly ever rains and the tracks will be dry and easiest to drive. This makes the dry season the best time of year to Self-Drive in Botswana.

Shoulder season – from March to May and October/November – can be a great time as there are still fewer people yet the tracks are normally decent and there are plenty of animals. Especially in the desert parks the beginning of the dry season is when the animals flock to the pans and waterholes which retain their water for a while longer before finally drying out.

Botswana Overlanding Book

I captured our many adventures in a travel book , check it out on Amazon *.

South Africa was kicking us out so we had to make a plan. ‘What about Botswana?’ A few days before we overstayed our visas, we hit the road in our trusty Defender and sped north from Cape Town.

Renting a 4×4 Car for a Self-Drive Safari in Botswana

We drove around Botswana in our dark-blue Land Rover Defender 110 TD5 from 2002. If you rent a vehicle in Botswana you probably won’t get a Defender because rumour has it they have a tendency to break down (not true – our car only set on fire like one time since we got it). You have to be at least 22 years old to rent a vehicle in Botswana.

In Botswana Britz specialises in equipped 4×4 vehicles specially designed for tourists interested in self-drive safaris. You can rent Britz cars through AutoEurope * and pick exactly what you want with your car.

For example, you can pay a bit extra if you want your rental to include border crossings or return the car to a different drop-off location. If you just want to drive one way from Maun to Kasane the latter might be something to consider.

You can save only a small amount by renting an unequipped car, but it means you have to bring all your own camping gear and it will not be as comfortable or fun as a rooftop tent so I don’t think it’s worth it. An equipped Toyota Hilux is the most common car rented out for a self-drive safari in Botswana.

What does an equipped 4×4 come with?

An equipped 4×4 designed for a self-drive safari normally comes as standard with a rooftop tent with bedding, a long-range fuel tank (of roughly 80-120 litres), a fridge, a camping stove with a large gas cylinder, a table, chairs and pots and pans for cooking. The most useful extras you might want to consider are a water canister , fuel canisters , a satellite phone and an extra rooftop tent if you’re more than 2 people.

Our rooftop water canister of 40 litres was invaluable everywhere in Botswana and we used it as well as our inbuilt water tank during our longer drives through the wilderness areas. Regarding how much diesel you might need on a self-drive safari in Botswana, the longest distance we went between fuel stations was 976 km . This was between Maun and Kasane and most of it was on sand so our fuel efficiency was about 20% lower than on tarred roads (8 versus 10 km per litre). We used 114 litres of diesel on this section, but we carried 165 litres, our full capacity. Apart from our normal tank (75 litres) we had two 20-litre jerry cans on the roof and two 25-litre jerry cans in our boot.

Vehicle Gear needed for a self-drive safari around Botswana in your own 4×4

If you drive around Botswana in a car you own yourself, make sure you have the following items:

• Seed net/grill
• Two spare tires
• Puncture repair kit
• Fire extinguisher
• Sand tracks
• Spade/shovel
• High-lift jack
• Kinetic strap/rope
• Tire pressure gauge
• Car tools and spares

Instead of expensive sand tracks, we bought two floormats for R80 each from Builders. Placed beneath the tires they fulfil the same function, providing a grippy surface instead of sand. Even more important than sand tracks, reduce your tire pressure further and you might not need them. However, rigid sand tracks are obviously better at bridging gaps and are more effective in thick mud.

A seed grill is very important when driving on safari in Botswana as it prevents grasses and seeds from getting into your radiator. However, you should still check your radiator once a day to remove any grass stalks that have slipped through the net. You should also check your exhaust pipes for seeds or grass that have got caught and could heat up and start a fire. Be careful when removing anything not to burn yourself.

Our longest route between fuel stations was from Maun to Kasane through the national parks. We drove 976 km and used 114 litres of diesel (no trailer), though we had filled up to our maximum capacity of 165 litres which included our tank and four jerry cans. We had a built-in water tank of 40 litres and a rooftop tank of another 40 litres. Additionally, we had a couple of 5-litre bottles in the boot for convenience.

Do you need a satellite phone for a self-drive safari in Botswana?

We didn’t take a satellite phone with us on our trip but we did think about it. In the end they seemed very expensive to buy and we ended in a different location to where we started so it wasn’t convenient to hire one. If you rent a car with Britz * the satellite phones are relatively cheap as an add-on and would give you peace of mind. I guess Britz has an interest in you not being stuck for days in the wilderness.

Mobile Phone Coverage in Botswana

We got a Mascom SIM card as soon as we entered Botswana and it was definitely worth it during our self-drive safari. Although most of the parks do not have any coverage at all, the surrounding villages and towns tend to have a blob of signal ( compare coverage of the three Botswanan phone networks – Mascom, Orange or Bemobile).

The lodges in Maun and Kasane have ok WiFi, as do some lodges elsewhere, but this can never be fully relied upon, and mobile reception is much more widespread than WiFi. For safety reasons we sent our entire road trip schedule to our parents , including driving routes and the places we were staying. We also marked on exactly where and when we would have phone signal. We told them if they didn’t receive a message from us within two days of our expected arrival in phone signal, they should start to worry.

Emergency Phone Numbers

We gave our parents the phone numbers of all the lodges we were staying. Additionally we provided these numbers:

• Emergency Assist : +267 390 4537
• DWNP: +267 397 1405
• British High Commission: +267 395 2841
• Netherlands Honorary Consulate: +27 124 254 500 / +267 7163 1563

4×4 Car Rental Locations in Botswana

In Botswana the two main places you can rent an equipped 4×4 from are Maun and Kasane. You can also find them in Gaborone, and Gaborone is also the place to rent normal i.e. not 4×4 vehicles.

• Britz * is a big international car rental company renting many unequipped or fully equipped 4x4s in Kasane and Maun.
• Bushlore Africa rent both unequipped and fully equipped 4×4 Toyotas in southern Africa, including Kasane and Maun.
• Chobe4x4 are based in Kasane and rent fully equipped Toyota Landcruisers.
• 4×4 Hire (part of DiscoverAfrica) rent different types of vehicles throughout Africa, including pick-up and drop-off in Kasane and Maun.
• Temba 4×4 Hire rent fully equipped 4×4 Toyotas in Kasane and Maun.
• Tawana Self-Drive are based in Kasane and rent fully equipped 4×4 Toyotas in Kasane, Maun, Gaborone, Namibia or SA.

Botswana Self-Drive Itineraries

We took a 45-day road trip from South Africa around Botswana , and below are three selected itineraries altered from that route for a great self-drive safari experience. We planned our route using the Tracks4Africa Botswana Map * and booked all our campsites through Botswana Footprints . For more information about the specific parks we visited click on the links, read an overview of Botswana National Parks or for more about camping spots and how to book, read our post on Camping in Botswana .

Maun to Kasane Self-Drive Route

The sandy route from Maun through Moremi , Khwai , Savuti and Chobe Riverfront to Kasane is the most classic self-drive itinerary in Botswana.

A suggested self-drive itinerary is shown in the table below, modified from our route. We drove 976 km and used 114 litres of diesel between the last fuel station in Maun and the next fuel station in Kasane. In Maun we filled to our capacity of 165 litres (75-litre fuel tank, 2×20 litre and 2×25 litre jerry cans). If you rent a fully-equipped 4×4 from Britz * your vehicle will normally come with a long-range fuel tank (giving you roughly 105 litres) and you can rent jerry cans for an extra fee. You can also rent vehicles one way from Maun to Kasane and add on extras like a satellite phone.

The most direct route between Maun and Kasane is 395 km but this involves no detours to campsites and no game drives. You’ll want to spend at least five days along this route and preferably more , to stay at least one night within Moremi, Khwai, Savuti and Chobe Riverfront and be able to go on game drives within each park.

Road conditions on the Maun to Kasane Route

The tracks in Moremi can become flooded and impassable in the rainy season, from December to March. Sometimes the bridges are damaged – these lead to Third Bridge Campsite – and this campsite can be cut off. The bridge called Third Bridge is on the direct route between Third Bridge Campsite and Xakanaxa Lagoon area. This bridge in particular is sometimes broken so to drive between the two areas you must go via South Gate. The direct route from Xakanaxa to Khwai North Gate can also often be flooded or very muddy in rainy season, so again you may have to travel via South Gate. If you are scared of water crossings, stay in Xakanaxa rather than Third Bridge.

In Khwai the tracks near the river may be wet, muddy or overgrown. The drivable routes change every year so you’ll just have to see as you go. The tracks to the campsite are always fine.

The way through Savuti is very sandy – we found it much sandier than anywhere in the southern deserts. The worst bit of sand in Botswana is along the cutline north of Savuti on the way to where the tar starts in Kachikau village. It’s bad here because not only is the road very sandy, but it’s undulating too so you have to power uphill through the thick sand. With a decent car you’ll be fine. With a car lacking in power and pulling a trailer you may find yourself stuck. Luckily the route is not too remote and another vehicle should be along to help you.

In Chobe Riverfront the tracks are all ok and if they’re not you can always turn around. The routes by the river are completely flooded in the rainy season but the tracks higher up on the riverbanks are always fine and it’s never a problem to reach the campsite.

Suggested Itinerary for Maun to Kasane Route

Approxima te c osts for this itinerary for two people with one vehicle work out at about $860/1230 for SADC/international excluding vehicle hire, food and small extras. The three main costs are $390/680 for campsites, $320/400 for park fees and roughly $150 for fuel.

To make this itinerary shorter you could miss out a night in Moremi and/or Khwai and drive straight from Savuti to Chobe. If you have extra time, spend an extra night or two in Moremi, add on two nights in Linyanti and spend an extra night in Chobe Riverfront.

Stock up everything you need for a week or two in the wilderness here in Maun . Take at least 150 litres of diesel and more if you plan on spending much over one week on this self-drive route. Make sure your vehicle is in good condition – check fluids and listen for any odd sounds when driving (bad sounds are often the first sign that something is wrong). You also need enough drinking water. We carried almost 100 litres of water , though the ablution facilities do have water which you can boil to drink if needed. If you have a spare day in Maun, take a mokoro tour on the delta * – these often include a guided walking safari on a remote island – a good way to exercise before a lot of driving. It’s easiest to ask about tours and book in the lodge you’re staying at.

Once you’re ready, it’s time to set off on a safari to remember.

It’s almost 100 km from Maun to Moremi South Gate with the last 50 km on good tracks. The drive might take about two hours, depending on how many animals you see as you approach the Game Reserve. There are four campsites with the park – Third Bridge, Xakanaxa, Khwai North Gate and South Gate. Third Bridge and Xakanaxa are at the far end of Moremi Tongue, next to the delta, while Khwai North Gate borders the Khwai River and South Gate is next to the South Gate and the least wild campsite in the park.

I’d recommend spending at least two nights in Moremi , ideally at either Third Bridge or Xakanaxa Campsites on the tip of Moremi tongue (these campsites do fill up so book far in advance ). In the rainy season Third Bridge may be inaccessible, in which case you can find a site at another campsite within the park or in Khwai Community Concession instead. If you are scared of water crossings, stay in Xakanaxa rather than Third Bridge .

Khwai North Gate campsite is also a fine choice within the park, near the Khwai River with many animals, though it feels slightly less remote than the other two. If you have more time, stay at Third Bridge and Xakanaxa and Khwai to experience the different parts of the park.

Khwai Community Concession

Khwai Community Concession is an area protected and managed by the local community. It’s between Moremi and Savuti and has at least as much wildlife as within the official parks so it’s worth spending at least two nights in Khwai Community. The Magotho campsite has a lovely position by the river and you could sit here for days watching the comings and goings on, in and through the water. Elephants in particular wander through the campsite. Khwai Safari Grounds and Mbudi Campsite are great alternative campsites to Magotho.

Savuti & Linyanti

Savuti and Linyanti are two areas of Chobe National Park (Chobe Riverfront is the other, most visited one). There are only three campsites in Chobe National Park – one in each area i.e. Savuti Campsite in Savuti, Linyanti Campsite in Linyanti and Ihaha Campsite in Chobe Riverfront. Due to the low number of campsites, you should book far in advance to guarantee a spot.

It’s about 75 km from Khwai north to Savuti Campsite . Outside of the dry season you have to drive the Sand Ridge Road, rather than the Marsh Road which gets very wet. The Sand Ridge road is very sandy and the going slow, so allow four or five hours from Khwai to Savuti Campsite. It’s a further 40 km of slow sandy driving to Linyanti Marsh and the campsite there. In the wet season the direct route NW from Savuti to Linyanti is often too muddy to drive. Instead, you have to take the long way around, 70 km via Ghoha North Gate and then along the cutline to Linyanti Gate.

It’s worth spending at least two nights in Savuti since you’ve come so far to get here. If visiting Linyanti as well, spend two nights at each campsite to make the most of your time in the wilderness.

Chobe Riverfront

It’s 130 km (45 km on tar and 85 km on sandy tracks) from Savuti Campsite to Ihaha campsite, the only campsite in Chobe Riverfront. We stayed at Mwandi View Campsite * in between for several reasons: so we could have a morning game drive in Savuti before setting off, to avoid driving too far in one day, to allow for delays and getting stuck on the sandy roads, and to have a short break from the wilderness. Another good option near Mwandi View is Muchenje Campsite & Cottages *.

Camping at Ihaha Campsite is a great option as the sites overlook the river and you avoid having to deal with the Chobe Decongestion Strategy . This rule means that in busy times, self-drivers cannot enter the park before 9 am or after 2:30 pm unless you’re staying at the campsite. We camped at Ihaha for one night and felt we saw most of the park, but staying for two or three nights would allow more animal sightings.

Kasane is just next to Chobe and could be used as a base to explore the park if Ihaha is fully booked. Kasane has fuel and many shops, the first place since Maun, so you can restock on everything here. We stayed in the campsite at Chobe Safari Lodge * and also organised a river cruise with them, an experience you shouldn’t miss. You can check online to get an idea of river cruises available *, but it’s easy and probably cheaper to book directly at a lodge.

If you want to return to Maun, it’s 600 km on the tar via Nata. Nice places to stop overnight on the way include Elephant Sands *, Nata Lodge * or Planet Baobab *.

Central Kalahari and the Salt Pans Self-Drive Route

The wild route from Maun through Central Kalahari Game Reserve , across the Salt Pans to Kubu Island , through Makgadikgadi Pans and Nxai Pan National Parks includes a mix of landscapes, wide open spaces, amazing light and stars on a diverse self-drive safari through Botswana.

As above , this route starts in Maun where you should prepare everything to be self-sufficient for the next week or two. Get diesel in Maun (the fuel station in Sehithwa is less reliable) and fill up on water and food. None of the campsites in Central Kalahari have water, so bring all the water you need plus more. We carried almost 100 litres of water and never came close to running out, but the extra is needed in case you get stuck. After the Central Kalahari, you can refuel in Rakops and restock on food and fuel in Letlhakane. Nata also has both food and fuel while Gweta doesn’t have much of either.

On this self-drive route, the longest section between fuel is from Maun to Rakops, where you might drive 700 to 1000 km, mainly through sand. Our car (Defender 110 TD5) averaged about 8 km per litre through sand. Assuming your car is similar you should carry at least 100 litres if you’re not driving too far in the reserve, and up to 150 km if you plan to drive a lot. Your fuel efficiency will be a lot lower if you’re pulling a trailer.

Road conditions on the Central Kalahari and the Salt Pans Route

The tracks through the Central Kalahari can be very muddy in the wet season with the black sticky type of mud that really glues you down. This occurs on the main loop where you drive through pans and former river channels, especially near Deception Valley itself. On the tracks through the sand dunes away from this loop, the roads are just sandy all year round.

The Botswanan Salt Pans fill with water in the rainy season, lasting between December and March/April. Never drive on the pans when they are wet as the mud will suck you in and you might never get free. Entire cars have been lost here. Even if the pans look dry, unless you see recent tire tracks then get out and walk on them to check, but remember that your car is a lot heavier than you.

When the water is very high you won’t be able to reach Kubu Island . If this is the case you’ll have to drive around the edge of the pans instead of across via the Island. Baines Baobabs in Nxai Pans may also be out of reach , though the campsite at South Camp should always be accessible. Similarly, most of the roads within Makgadikgadi remain just sandy rather than muddy and wet.

Suggested Itinerary for Central Kalahari and the Salt Pans Route

Approxima te costs for this itinerary for two people with one vehicle work out at about $820/950 for SADC/international excluding vehicle hire, food and small extras. The three main costs are $290/360 for campsites, $230/290 for park fees and roughly $300 for fuel.

To make the itinerary shorter you could miss out Kubu Island (though this is a really unique place). If you have more time, spend an extra night in each of Makgadikgadi and Nxai National Parks and add on more time in the Central Kalahari.

Central Kalahari

From Maun it’s 170 km drive southwest on the A3 to the vet fence and checkpoint. Note you can’t bring meat or eggs south through this checkpoint. The turn-off to Central Kalahari is just south of the fence along a sandy track due east. After 40 km you’ll reach the entrance to the park. It’s another 32 km east along the park boundary before the track south through the dunes to Motopi campsite (15 km) and the central loop of the park (55 km). Since it’s already 170 km on tar (almost 2 hours) and 90 km through sand (maybe four hours) to Motopi campsite it’s worth staying here rather than trying to push on. The waterhole at Motopi is nice and it’s a pleasant, extremely remote area.

From Motopi campsite it’s 40 km to the main loop. You then have a choice of whether to drive anticlockwise or clockwise. The entire loop is 230 km, which would be a fairly quick two day’s drive. There’s also a cutline heading directly east-west through the centre of the loop. You won’t see many animals here but it’s a quick way from one side of the loop to the other.

One of the most popular areas, with both self-drivers and animals, is the area of Deception Valley on the eastern side of the loop. It’s much busier with people than elsewhere, but it’s worth spending a couple of nights here for the chance of seeing cheetahs, lions and wild dogs. Apart from the campsites around the loop, Pipers Pan is a great excursion into a remoter area of the Kalahari. While in the park read Cry of the Kalahari *, a book about the brown hyenas and lions of Deception Valley.

CKGR to Kubu Island

Leave the park to the east via Matswere gate and to Rakops. From the Deception Valley area it’s about 80 km so a few hours’ drive. Either stop off at Rakops River Lodge * or if you left the park early you can continue directly to Kubu Island. It’s 170 km on the tar and 50 km on fairly decent sand tracks to Kubu from Rakops, so should take 3.5-5 hours. There’s fuel in Rakops but no supermarkets – there are both in Letlhakane just south of the turnoff to Kubu.

From the south to Kubu Island the tracks are sandy but good and the route is quite clear. The campsite has a good website and they can inform you about the road condition before you set off. Make sure to arrive in time to explore a little before sunset. You can walk up the nearby hills and over the rocks, have a braai and watch the sky change colour. Unless you want a longer break there’s no need to spend more than one night at Kubu as there’s not much to do nearby and there aren’t any animals (apart from horses and donkeys).

Kubu Island to Makgadikgadi

Heading north from Kubu the tracks can be a bit obscured and overgrown and sometimes multiple tracks branch off and you don’t know which one to take. The Tracks4Africa Botswana * map is useful, as is a phone app such as Maps.Me. Keep heading north, and avoid the track furthest east on the edge of the pan as this can be wet and muddy and you might run into trouble here. The parallel route slightly west and away from the pan is slightly sandy but no problem.

After 100 km you’ll reach the main tarred road across the top of the Salt Pans. This is the only bad tarred road in Botswana – in places almost washed away entirely – drive slowly to avoid the potholes. If you need fuel or food, or want to visit Nata Bird Sanctuary, head 20 km right to Nata. Otherwise, turn left towards Gweta. There’s not much in Gweta itself (the fuel here is very unreliable) but Planet Baobab * is a cool place to camp among large baobab trees. About 10 km west of Gweta is a signed track leading off to the eastern entrance to Makgadikgadi Pans.

This National Park can be divided into two areas: the large expanse of the eastern section with few tracks, lots of pans and sand, and the Boteti River section on the western edge of the park. Makgadikgadi Pans is famous for the zebra migration, as the animals move from the pans where they live in the wet season to the permanent Boteti River where they find water in the dry season. It’s not just zebra who do this but also the other game. This means that in dry season, most of the animals can be found by the River, while in the wet season there’s much more game in the east of the park.

Tree Island campsite is a remote spot in the eastern section of the park with three sites, all with a long-drop toilet and bucket shower. Khumaga is the other campsite in the park, next to the Boteti River. It’s a much bigger campsite and there are shared ablutions with flush toilets and hot showers.

By the river there are several tracks nearby and you can drive up and down the banks looking for game, including many antelope and hippos. Once you’ve explored Makgadikgadi, Nxai Pans is not far away. Head north from the river to the main road and 10 km east along it.

The entrance gate to Nxai is on the northern side of the main road. The route into the main area of the park is quite sandy and you may see elephants along the way. The clarity of the light is very special in Nxai, especially in the golden hours – just after sunrise and just before sunset.

Similarly to Makgadikgadi, there are two campsites, each with a different vibe. South Camp is on the southern edge of the main pans area of the park and has the most wildlife nearby. There are many campsites fairly close together and shared ablutions. In contrast, Baines Baobabs campsite has three sites spread out from each other, each with a drop toilet and bucket shower, in a remote section of the park by some huge baobabs. These campsites may be inaccessible in the wet season.

From the entrance gate to Nxai Pans it’s then 140 km back to Maun.

Kalahari Desert Exploration Self-Drive Route

This self-drive safari route explores some of the last places on earth to remain true wilderness, the three big desert parks of southern Botswana – Mabuasehube , Khutse and the Central Kalahari . With fantastic predator sightings, huge herds of antelope and a feeling of utter remoteness, you’ll want to head back as soon as you leave.

Road conditions on the Kalahari Desert Exploration

The tracks in Mabuasehube and Khutse are mostly just sandy and don’t get too wet or muddy even in the rainy season. In Central Kalahari there are areas, especially near Deception Valley on the eastern edge of the main loops, where tracks can become quite muddy and wet . Some routes also tend to be slightly overgrown. Unless you’re confident you can self-recover from getting stuck in the mud or you’re travelling in a convoy, it’s best to think twice about the Central Kalahari in January or February. If you’re a confident self-driver however, it’s a great time of year to be in the region with the game flocking to the ancient riverbeds and pans, and young antelope attracting the predators.

The long, sandy route from Khutse to the north of CKGR is very remote and not frequently driven . If you go this way, take enough water and food to last an extra few days in case you break down. It’s 300 km from the centre of Khutse to Pipers Pan in the north, and it’s sandy undulating dunes all the way with few animals. If you want to avoid this section, you can drive the long way around (about 900 km, mainly on tar). To take this route, go back out the way you came in and around via Ghanzi. You can then follow a similar itinerary in the CKGR to that in the route above.

Suggested Itinerary for the Kalahari Desert Exploration Route

Approximate costs for this itinerary for two people with one vehicle work out at about $1070/1300 for SADC/international excluding vehicle hire, food and small extras. The three main costs are $370/530 for campsites, $300/370 for park fees and roughly $400 for fuel. To reduce the price, stay at the DWNP campsites in Mabuasehube and CKGR.

To shorten the itinerary you could spend one less night in all the parks, miss out on Mabuasehube entirely and skip the Khama Rhino Sanctuary. If you have more time, spend an extra night in all the parks, or add on more than one extra in Central Kalahari.

From Gaborone, or South Africa, first head to Kanye. At the Mongala Mall in the centre of town you can fill up on fuel, visit the Superspar, and get a SIM card for Botswana if needed (we got a Mascom SIM and it worked well). From Kanye it’s 165 km to Sekoma, the last place for fuel before the park.

From Sekoma head 80 km down the A20 and there’s a large road sign pointing down the cutline to Mabuasehube. You have to open and close a gate to get on the track. It’s then straight for a while before the track wiggles around to the north, then cuts south back to a larger cutline. Then it’s west all the way to the boundary track of Mabua. Head south along this track – it’s probably the sandiest part of the drive, and soon you’ll reach the entrance gate.

Inside the Park

Inside the park there are several camping spots – all fairly private and spread out from each other, most with their own A-frame, long-drop toilet and bucket shower. The most popular spots are around Mabuasehube Pan itself and Mpayathutlwa Pan but many of the other sites are also nice. The worst spots are at the Entrance Gate since you don’t get a sense of wilderness.

After exploring the park you must return to the same entrance gate. Head north along the boundary then left at the corner before the tracks turns north again towards Hukuntsi. The track is a mix of sand which is a bit slow and newer gravel sections where you can travel fast – but these are intermittent. There’s fuel in Hukuntsi and then it’s 110 km east to Kang.

In Kang there’s both fuel and a Choppies supermarket. We stayed at the campsite at Kalahari Rest Lodge, which has a pool and delicious steak, 25 km north up the road from Kang. There aren’t (m)any other camping opportunities in this area. The other option is to drive all the way from Mabua to Khutse (630 km, about 200 km of which is sand) but it would be a very long day.

From Kang head to Letlhakeng, the end of the tar and the last place to get fuel before heading north into the desert. If you’re heading right through to CKGR, you will probably travel at least 1000 km before the next fuel, mainly on sandy tracks. With an average fuel consumption of 8 km/litre, you’ll need 125 litres. You may well travel more like 1300 km, in which case at least 160 litres of fuel would be needed. If you’re pulling a trailer, your fuel efficiency will be a lot worse. Remember also to take enough water for the time you plan to spend plus a few days extra in case of problems. Assume that there’s no water within the park (there may be some at Xade Gate halfway up but it’s definitely not reliable).

From Letlhakeng the tracks are good gravel until just before the border of Khutse Park, and within the park they are mainly sandy. After camping a few nights here, head north to continue into the desert if taking the direct route. There are campsites along the route at Bape, Xaxa (12 km off the main track but by a waterhole) and Xade Gate. After a stopover, continue through the sand to Pipers Pan and beyond onto the main loop of the Central Kalahari.

If you don’t fancy the 300 km of sandy undulating sand dunes, leave Khutse the way you came and return to Kang. Continue north to Ghanzi (we stayed one night in Tautona Lodge * here). On this route, Ghanzi is the last place for fuel, food and water before you enter the park.

Wherever you enter the park, spend a couple of nights in the Deception Valley area on the eastern side of the loop, and a few nights elsewhere. While in the park read Cry of the Kalahari *, a book about the brown hyenas and lions of Deception Valley. Pipers Pan is a great spot to spend a night or two, while Passarge Valley is also beautiful and worth driving to see the large herds of antelope.

You could spend weeks here, but eventually you must leave. Head east to exit the park and continue to Rakops. There’s fuel here but no supermarket. Camp overnight at Rakops River Lodge *, or if you left the park early you can continue to Khama Rhino Sanctuary. On the way stop at Letlhakane for both supermarkets and fuel.

Khama Rhino Sanctuary is a small reserve that contains many rhinos. The campsite is pleasant and you could pass a day or two here. From the Sanctuary it’s 335 km back to Gaborone or 600 km to Johannesburg.

Self-Driving and Camping Gear Needed in Botswana

Gear for at the campsite.

• Braai wood – you can buy this at most supermarkets in Botswana and often at some of the biggest campsites.
• Headlamp * – essential for walking around in the dark and keeping your hands free.
• Flashlight * – a strong flashlight is useful for scanning around your campsite and seeing far-off wildlife in the dark. A red light disturbs the animals less. You can either get a flashlight with a red bulb or a white one with a red filter, though the latter are less powerful because they filter out some of the light.
• Camping Lanterns * – great to set out around your vehicle at night to give some bright light. We had two. Get rechargeable ones so you can recharge them during the day using your solar panels (see below).
• Handheld espresso maker * – if you need your coffee fix, you can make a decent espresso at the campsite with a bit of arm work. It works best with finely ground coffee, something available only in the main cities of Botswana (Maun, Kasane, Gaborone, Francistown). To be safe, bring your own finely ground coffee from home.
• Thermos Flask * – we often made a litre of tea, half to drink immediately and half for our thermos that we took with us on our game drives. It was a great idea for the chilly mornings and kept us going throughout the day. A narrow flask is more likely to fit into your car cup holders or side pockets.
• Travel First Aid Kit * – a basic first aid kit is very useful to have in the wild.
• Books set in Botswana – in the middle of the day you will often have time for relaxation back at your accommodation, whether at a campsite or lounging by the pool. Reading books set in Botswana is a great way to pass the time and learn more about the country.

Gear for Charging Items

• Solar Panels * – set these out when you’re back in camp to charge your lanterns, cameras, phones, Kindles, batteries and …
• Power Bank * – useful to charge your cameras or phones if for some reason you can’t set out your solar panels. You can also charge this up when somewhere with real electricity or while you drive along in the car.
• Car Charger * – depending on the age and model of your vehicle, you may need a USB converter to charge from the cigarette lighter.
• Car Power Inverter for Laptop * – with a power inverter you can charge your laptop from the second battery system of your car, either while stopped or while driving along. We used this quite a bit.
• Camera USB Charger * – I had a camera with a battery that charged via a real plug, so I bought a camera battery charger that worked via a USB instead. This meant I could charge via the solar panels or the car. Check carefully that the charger you get is compatible with your specific camera battery.

Is it safe to self-drive in Botswana?

Tips for staying safe while self-driving in botswana.

• Never drive in the dark – animals may jump onto the road
• Always check your surrounding for wild animals before leaving your vehicle
• Accompany young children at all times and don’t let them sleep in their own tent
• Never take citrus fruit or apples into wilderness areas – elephants love these and do anything to get at them
• Be careful when lifting up your rooftop tent cover if you keep it on the ground overnight – scorpions or snakes could be sheltering beneath it
• Don’t walk in the dark to the ablutions – drive or hold it in
• Never run away from a big cat – stand your ground, wave your arms and shout at it

Dangers on the Road

Botswana is one of the safest countries in Africa, there is very little chance you’ll have any problems with crime within the country. Additionally there are very few other cars on the road apart from in the larger towns and cities so accidents involving two cars are rare in the countryside. The greatest danger of self-driving safari in Botswana is animals on the road and you shouldn’t drive in the dark for this reason. Always stick to the speed limit (40 km/hour in the parks) and slow down in areas with high concentrations of animals.

An additional danger is breaking down or getting stuck in the remote wilderness and not being able to self-recover. The road may be infrequently driven and much of Botswana does not have mobile reception so you must always have enough water and food for an extra few days. If you rent or own a satellite phone you’ll always be able to contact someone if you break down.

Animal Dangers While Driving in Wilderness

When you’re in your vehicle and driving slowly or at a standstill, elephants are basically the only animal that can hurt you and your car. Elephants are the leading cause of animal-related deaths in Botswana (more than hippos and mosquitoes), killing a handful of people every year. Always respect the wild animals and never get too near an elephant. They are often known as ‘gentle giants’ but experience teaches otherwise. Never get too close to elephants and back away if they start flapping their ears, raising their trunks, trumpeting or otherwise looking disturbed by your presence.

Breeding herds will fiercely protect their young and will charge you if they feel you are a threat. Males in musth (when they want to breed) have high testosterone levels and can be particularly aggressive. Signs that they’re in musth include wet cheeks (it looks a bit like they’re crying) and dribbling urine on their back legs. Luckily elephants normally give a warning charge – trumpeting and running just a few metres – before the real thing. This gives you the opportunity to quickly drive away.

Safety at Campsites in Botswana

Wildlife-related incidents at campsites in Botswana are rare but do happen. Children especially are the main victims and should always be accompanied. Never let children sleep in their own tent in case they decide to wander outside in the middle of the night. By following normal precautions, being alert and giving respect to all wild animals you should be safe on your self-drive safari in Botswana.

Outside your vehicle at your campsite there are many animals that might be a danger, though normally they are just a nuisance. Always check your surroundings before leaving your vehicle . It’s especially dangerous to walk far from your car when it’s dark. Don’t walk to the ablutions at nighttime, go before it gets dark. It’s best to drive (if you have a rooftop tent don’t set it up until the last minute) or just hold it in.

Dangers from Small Animals

Monkeys and baboons are common at campsites and are normally just looking for food. They can be very cunning, using two-pronged attacks and distraction tactics, so always keep a tidy camp and never leave food out (or your boot open).

Snakes are another animal to watch out for at your campsite and these can be very dangerous. We had a puff adder slither into our campsite in Savuti – these are highly venomous (though luckily also highly slow) and it’s often very far to the nearest hospital. Normally the campsites are cleared so you can see any snakes approaching, but be particularly careful if walking through grass and undergrowth.

Mosquitoes ! Take precautions against malaria in the north of the country. Scorpions can be found in the desert parks of Botswana – the sting is in the tail so those with small pincers and thick tails are the ones to watch out for the most. If you keep the cover of your rooftop tent on the ground overnight, always be careful when lifting it up the next morning. We once had a deadly scorpion sheltering under it.

Dangers from Large Animals

Hyenas can be attracted by the smell of meat and any food left out. They are also quite cunning. Normally you can scare them off by shouting at them, but they may attack young children in particular. Never sleep outside your tent and always make sure your tent is fully zipped up in the nighttime – you don’t want to wake up to a hyena eating your face.

Be especially vigilant near water . Hippos are one of the most dangerous animals. When the sun sets they come out of the water to graze – never get between them and the water. Additionally, crocodiles lurk in the shallows and can be very hidden. Always approach water with caution, and if there might be hippos nearby never ever walk about in the dark.

Obviously if you see a leopard or lion(s) approaching your campsite, immediately get into your vehicle. Lions are normally relaxed and lazy during the daytime but become much more active as darkness falls. Additionally, lions are quite self-confident, not easily scared and normally quite obvious, unlike leopards who more easily feel threatened and can hide unobtrusively in nearby trees. If you’re far from your car, never run away from a big cat . Stand your ground, make yourself look big and make a lot of noise. If you run away the cat will be more tempted to chase you.

Dangers from Very Large Animals

Buffalos can also be very dangerous, but again they are unlikely to wander into your campsite. If you are walking in the wilderness, a lone male buffalo is one of the most dangerous animals you can encounter. This is partly because they are often aggressive and partly because they normally don’t give a warning charge, they just immediately go for the real thing. If you do see a buffalo charging toward you either climb a tree or if there aren’t any nearby you should lie flat on the ground. This is really the advice given, though it must be incredibly hard to follow if it came to it.

Elephants are often less of an issue at campsites than when driving around the parks. This is because they are intelligent and often recognise that campsites are the domain of humans, while the surrounding wilderness is their domain. This means they aren’t likely to wander into your campsite just to attack you. They will either stay away or gently wander through. In contrast, while driving in the parks you enter their domain and they can feel threatened by this. Elephants like citrus fruits such as oranges and apples so never bring these into any parks. Elephants have been known to trample down tents to get to these juicy fruits.

Bribery and Road Check Points in Botswana

Bribery is extremely uncommon in Botswana and the police you might meet at a checkpoint are often very friendly to tourists. However, once we were asked by the police if we had any food, so we gave them two apples and they seemed quite satisfied with this.

There are occasional checkpoints to just check traffic, but most checkpoints are at vet (veterinary) fences. These long fences criss-cross Botswana and are designed to prevent the spread of diseases such as foot-and-mouth being transmitted from the wild animals to the domestic cattle. This means certain food items are prohibited from being transported across these fences, mainly meat and eggs. These rules may seem silly but they are in place to protect the cattle industry from diseases which could ruin the entire country’s economy so they should be obeyed.

The diseases are endemic in the northeast of the country and you can bring meat and eggs into these areas (i.e. from south to north) but you can’t bring these products back in the other direction. For example, you can take meat from Maun into Moremi and beyond, but you can’t bring meat back from Moremi to Maun. You can take meat from Gaborone and the south into the Central Kalahari, but you can’t take meat from Maun into the Central Kalahari.

Where to get supplies in Botswana

Food and drink.

Gaborone, Maun and Kasane are the main places in Botswana to pick up supplies for a self-drive safari. These three locations have the greatest options, all with Superspar, Choppies and Shoprite. In addition, Gaborone and Maun have Woolworths Food. Many other towns in the southeast of the country also have a selection of supermarkets.

Other useful towns with at least a Choppies and some also a Superspar are Nata, Kang, Letlhakeng, Ghanzi, Letlhakane, Francistown, Serowe & Palapye. Two towns where you might expect a supermarket but there isn’t include Rakops and Gweta.

See our Chobe National Park guide to read more about the facilities in Kasane, or find out more about Maun .

Car Mechanics in Botswana

Maun and Kasane are two useful places with several car mechanics, dealing with both Landrovers, Toyotas and others. We also visited a mechanic in Ghanzi called NSI (PTY) LTD Motor Vehicle Repairs, on the corner opposite the Superspar. See our Chobe National Park or Maun guide to find more details about mechanics in Kasane or Maun.

Fuel Stations in Botswana

The common fuel stations are Shell, Caltex, Engen and Puma. There are a reasonable number of fuel stations and we always found them to be working. Watch out for the fuel station marked in Gweta (between Maun and Nata) on many maps – this is very unreliable. It’s a good idea to keep your tank(s)/jerry cans fairly full, or at least to have enough to be able to keep going if your first choice fuel station is not open/not working.

I hope you enjoyed our guide to self-driving in Botswana. If you’re not sure about whether self-driving is for you, check out our general safari guide where you can explore luxury safari options * or other cheaper options. If you’re still keen on self-driving, read our Camping in Botswana Guide or read about our 45-day road trip through Botswana . Alternatively, check our overall Guide to Botswana .

Guidebooks & Maps to Explore More of Botswana

The Lonely Planet Guidebook * covers all of Botswana, but not in much detail. The Bradt Guide * has a wealth of information and is great for planning a safari around northern Botswana, but doesn’t cover southern Botswana. The Tracks4Africa Map * is an essential item for driving around the country and its national parks. For more information, see our Best Botswana Guidebooks article.

We went on a self-drive safari in Botswana for two months in our trusty Defender. Find out more by reading the travel book I wrote, No Footprints in the Night: On Safari in Botswana *.

FAQS: Self-Drive Safari Botswana

Yes, self-driving is a great way to explore the national parks of Botswana.

A self-drive safari involves driving yourself in a 4×4 vehicle around the national parks. Additionally, it involves camping in the parks and being self-sufficient for the duration or your trip.

You definitely need a 4×4 to explore the national parks of Botswana yourself. If you don’t rent a 4×4 you are limited to driving on the tar, staying in lodges next to the main roads and then going on guided trips into the parks.

Botswana is one of the safest countries in Africa, there is very little chance you’ll have any problems with crime within the country. The greatest danger of self-driving in Botswana is animals on the road and you shouldn’t drive in the dark for this reason. An additional danger is breaking down in the remote wilderness and not being able to self-recover. The road may be infrequently driven and much of Botswana does not have mobile reception so you must always have enough water and food for an extra few days.

Useful things for a holiday in Botswana

• Travel Debit Card: we have Wise Cards * which allow you to cheaply convert most currencies into Botswana Pula. You can then pay by card (a few lodges have card machines), wire transfer or withdraw cash from an ATM inside Botswana for no extra fees.
• Travel Insurance: we use SafetyWing *, it’s simple to buy online and they have a downloadable letter proving you have travel insurance which includes Covid-related issues.

Related Posts

Botswana National Parks and Game Reserves

Botswana Safari

Camping in Botswana

One Month Botswana Road Trip

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FAQ’s

Destination

Botswana is a beautiful country in Southern Africa, known for its pristine wilderness, iconic wildlife, and warm hospitality. It is a destination that beckons nature enthusiasts and safari lovers from around the world.

Botswana’s abundant wildlife is a major draw for visitors. The country is home to some of Africa’s most renowned wildlife reserves, including the Okavango Delta , Chobe National Park, and the Moremi Game Reserve. Here, you can witness the famed Big Five (elephant, lion, leopard, buffalo, and rhinoceros) as well as an array of other fascinating animals, such as giraffes, zebras, cheetahs, and numerous bird species.

The landscapes of Botswana are nothing short of breathtaking. The Okavango Delta, a UNESCO World Heritage site, is a unique and pristine wilderness of winding waterways, lush islands, and fertile floodplains. Exploring the delta by traditional mokoro canoe or on a guided safari allows you to immerse yourself in its remarkable beauty and encounter a diverse range of wildlife.

Beyond the delta, the rugged and dramatic landscapes of the Kalahari Desert and the Makgadikgadi Pans provide contrasting experiences. The Kalahari offers vast expanses of golden grasslands dotted with acacia trees, where desert-adapted animals like meerkats and gemsbok thrive. The Makgadikgadi Pans, a vast salt flat, transforms into a surreal landscape during the rainy season, attracting migrating zebras and wildebeest.

Botswana’s commitment to sustainable tourism and conservation efforts is another reason to visit. The country has implemented a low-impact, high-value tourism model, ensuring that visitors can enjoy pristine wilderness while supporting local communities and wildlife conservation initiatives.

In summary, Botswana offers a unique combination of incredible wildlife encounters, stunning landscapes, and a commitment to conservation. Whether exploring the enchanting waterways of the Okavango Delta, tracking wildlife in the vast wilderness, or immersing yourself in the rich cultural heritage of the local communities, Botswana promises an unforgettable journey into the heart of Africa’s natural wonders.

Points of Interest in Botswana

How it works

Step 1. Tell us about your plans Complete our inquiry for expert advise.

Step 2. Chat with a local safari specialist We’ll help you refine the details for your itinerary.

Step 3. Secure your booking and accommodation Confirmations, deposits and peace of mind.

Tours in Botswana

Best of Botswana Luxury Fly-In Tour – 10 Days

Embark on a luxurious fly-in safari from Victoria Falls to Botswana, where opulence meets the wild. Experience the thrill of soaring over the Zambezi River...

Victoria Falls International Airport

Best of Botswana Self-Drive Tour – 22 Days

Explore the Khwai Community Area for cultural encounters, then journey to Savuti's predator-filled landscapes. Discover Chobe National Park's elephant herds and the serene beauty of...

Maun International Airport

Best of Namibia Self-Drive to Okavango Delta Tour – 12 Days

Discover the awe-inspiring Victoria Falls in Zimbabwe, where the majestic Zambezi River plunges into the depths below.

Hosea Kutako International Airport

Botswana Ultimate Fly-In Safari Experience – 9 Days

Let the adventure begin! Arriving in Maun, you'll board a charter flight to the luxurious Delta Camp, where you'll immerse yourself in the unspoiled splendour...

Maun Airport

Namibia Self-Drive to Victoria Falls Tour – 21 Days

This awe-inspiring self-drive adventure takes you through the heart of Namibia and beyond.

North-Eastern Namibia & Western Botswana Self-Drive Tour – 17 Days

Embark on an unforgettable self-drive safari through Namibia and Botswana. Begin at Hosea Kutako International Airport and explore the dramatic landscapes and wildlife of the...

Hosea Kutako International Airport / Kasane International Airport

North-Eastern Namibia, Western Botswana to Chobe Self-Drive Tour – 19 Days

This self-drive adventure begins in Windhoek and takes you through various destinations across Namibia and Botswana, ending at the iconic Victoria Falls. Start your journey...

Northern Namibia & Best of Botswana Self-Drive Tour – 23 Days

Experience the breathtaking wonders of Southern Africa on this exhilarating self-drive tour spanning Namibia, Botswana, and Zimbabwe. Begin your journey in Windhoek, the vibrant capital...

Southern Botswana Self-Drive Tour – 12 Days

Start this extraordinary self-drive safari in South Africa, heading to Serowe and winding through Botswana's diverse landscapes. Serowe's historical charm welcomes you before you delve...

Hassle-Free Travel

Rent a vehicle, child friendly, travel to botswana, enquire today, we're a highly reputable tour operator, with a wealth of industry experience spanning over 15 years., destinations, points of interest.

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21 days – 4×4 Self drive wild parks Botswana

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Do not hesitage to give us a call. We are an expert team and we are happy to help you.

+31 85 4018272 +27 83 646 9774 [email protected]

Why Book With Us?

• African Experts
• 24/7 support from our backup team
• Future Proof Traveling
• Personal selected tours

Tour Details

Start and end this Botswana self drive in Johannesburg and enjoy this amazing adventure through the various game parks in Botswana. It is an adventurous route with multiple nights on basic camp sites in themiddles of unfenced game parks. Some 4×4 driving experience is required. 

This trip is taylor-made. Extra night, upgrades and possible alternative routes are available on request.

Johannesburg, Thabazimbi, Khama Rhino Sanctuary , Makgadikgadi Salt Pans , Nata, Victoria Falls (optioneel) Chobe National Park , Savuti , Moremi Game Reserve , Khwai Community Area , Okavango Delta , Maun, Xhumaga, Central Kalahari Game Reserve.

Departure & Arrival

Johannesburg – Johannesburg

Departure time

To be confirmed

• Accommodation and meals as mentioned in itinerary (Tab ACCOMMODATION);
• (4x4) rental vehicle including camping equipment, unlimited mileage, standard insurance, 2 drivers' fees
• Victoria Falls day transfer;
• Half day Mokoro excursion from Khwai;
• Reservation costs
• Travel App with offline access to the itinerary
• Travel documents and directions
• 24/7 assistentance
• Coverage Guarantee Fund
• Border Crossing documents rental vehicle
• All flights (bookable via African Travels)
• Meals and drinks not mentioned in itinerary
• All insurance
• GPS and satellite phone ( incl. 30 minutes airtime)
• Entrance and conservation fees for parks and attractions
• Items of a personal nature
• Total waiver car insurance
• Cross border fees: the cross border documents only include written approval to take the rental vehicle across the relevant borders. Local costs such as taxes, levies and insurances are still payable

Accommodation

20 nights in accommodations and camp sites as described in the itinerary.

Pictures of Accommodation

African Travels use small scale locations and establishments with great views and close to the local attractions and excursions. The accommodations add to the entire experience. As Africa specialists we would like to hear your accommodation preferences; do you prefer an onsite restaurant, pool, spa, gym? Do you like peace and quiet or do you prefer som more activity around you? Upgrades and additional nights are also an option.

Terms & Conditions

• Minimum leeftijd voor autohuur is 23

Extras/upgrades

• Accommodation upgrade
• Extra nights
• Pre-booked activities

Day 1 Johannesburg

Welcome to Africa! On arrival in Johannesburg in the evening you will be picked up at the airport and taken to your hotel for the first night in Africa and to recover from the long flight.

Day 2, 3 Thabazimbi

At 08:00 a.m. you will be picked up and taken to the 4×4 depot. Here you will receive the rental car. Take your time here. Then you can do your shopping for the next few days, ask the depot for the best location in the area. You can also do this in a smaller village near the first campsite.

Then you drive to Marakele NP and enjoy the first game drives!

Day 4, 5 Khama Rhino Sanctuary

Travel on to Botswana and cross the border. From now on, pay attention to potholes in the road! You can also do your shopping in Serowe here. Just across the border is a gas station with ATM where you can pin Pula.

Khama Rhino is a rhino sanctuary that provides national information about this threatened species.

Day 6 Makgadikgadi Salt Pans

Continue to Kubu Island. At Orapa you can enter the park. There are no facilities here, so make sure you bring enough water, fuel and food.

Enjoy the sunset!

Continue to Elephant Sands. You can make a stop at Nata Bird Sanctuary along the way. This lodge has a water spot that attracts a lot of elephants. There is also a swimming pool for cooling off. A great place to relax for an afternoon and enjoy nature. Here you will spend the night in a bed.

Day 8, 9 Chobe National Park & Victoria Falls

Continue to Kasane where you will spend the night just outside the village. Make sure you arrive at the campsite before 2 pm, then you can still join a sunset cruise on the river.

We will book a day transfer to Victoria Falls for you. Do not forget to bring your passport and a waterproof bag/bag for your camera and other valuables that should not get wet.

There is no restaurant here, make sure you bring enough food. There is a bar though.

Day 10, 11 Moremi Game Reserve

Fill up your car (take an extra jerry can with you on the roof) and drive into the wilderness! Travel to Third Bridge via Savuti and the Chobe National park. You will have time here to explore Moremi extensively.

Day 12 Khwai Community Area

In the morning you can explore Moremi and in the afternoon you travel further to Khwai.

Day 13, 14 Khwai Community Area - Okavango Delta

Start the day with the mokoro excursion to the Okavango delta. In the afternoon you travel further to the camping Maghoto (Khwai Community Campsite). The next few days you will sleep in the park again and you can enjoy the beautiful wildlife of Botswana. Again, there are no facilities here.

From this place you can explore Moremi as well as Khwai during day time

Day 15 Maun

Enjoy a final morning game drive before continuing to Maun in the afternoon. Here you could take a flight over the Delta in the afternoon. Maun is the tourist heart of Botswana.

Day 16 Xhumaga

By your supplies in the morning for the next few days. Travel on to Khumaga and spend the next few days exploring Makgadikgadi NP. At Tiaans Camp (Boteti river camp) there may be a restaurant available.

Day 17, 18 Central Kalahari Game Reserve

Continue the journey to the Central Kalahari Game Reserve. You can still refuel at Rakops. Make sure you have enough food and drink with you, there are no facilities. The next few days you can enjoy untouched wilderness again.

Day 19 Makgadikgadi Salt Pans

Leave the park and continue to Makumutu lodge.

Day 20 Mokobeng

Continue the journey to the border with South Africa and spend the night on the river that separates the two countries. It’s the last night in Africa.

Day 21 End of Itinerary

It’s an early start today for the last stretch of your self drive! Martin’s drift border opens at 06:00.

Then drive to Johannesburg and try to be there before 4:00 PM. After a final inspection you will be dropped off at the airport for the flight home.

Can we upgrade our rental car?

Yes, after confirmation we will contact you about additional requests. For example a rental car upgrade etc.

Which currency is most widely accepted on this tour?

You can use USD and EUR or ZAR and your bank/credit card should be accepted in most supermarkets, lodges and restaurants.

Can I book additional nights?

Yes you can. We can extent this trip. We can even include a Victoria Falls visit or Kruger Park safari.

Related Tours

11 days – The Jackal Safari Botswana – Mobile Camping Safari – Vic Falls to Maun

15 days – Bush & Zanzibar Beach Tanzania with private driver guide

We would like to thank you very much for this fantastic trip, we really enjoyed every day and definitely want to return to Africa again in the future. We really enjoyed the countries, partly because everything was really well and clearly arranged, so we no longer had to worry about it. This was truly a trip we will never forget. We will definitely recommend you to friends / family / acquaintances if we have made them enthusiastic enough with our stories.

Thank you again very much and perhaps we will be in touch again in a few years when we want to return to Africa.

Helpful, reliable, contactable, I wouldn’t hesitate to use them again, Highly recommended. 5/5 You drove a self hire camping Toyota from Johannesburg to Botswana. We mainly camped in National game parks or community camps. We saw great sites and lots of animals as we were generally staying in unfenced sites.

It was an unforgettable experience. Botswana is one of the last places of true wilderness. I have been on Safari elsewhere but there is no experience like self drive unfenced camping amongst the wildlife

We had an fantastic trip trough Africa… We had an fantastic trip trough Africa and visited three countrys SA, Botswana and Zimbabwe. African Travels helped perfectly to create the best possible holliday. The service was always posstive, professional and with an enormous local knowledge and contacts that made the trip extra special. Marijnke thanx for everything.

• Nederlands ( Dutch )

Discover all of Botswana’s Best Bits

Itinerary ‘highlights botswana’.

The perfect safari trip for those who want the well-known pictures of these highlight areas, come alive in front of their own eyes. Discover Botswana’s most scenic spots during Route Highlights!

Self-Drive Tour

14 Days (customizable)

A tour to the magnificent national parks of Botswana such as the Chobe and Moremi, and the Okavango Delta can be perfectly combined with a visit to the beautiful water-rich area of the Caprivi strip in the northeast of Namibia.

View and observe animals of all varieties and sizes from far and close. Be amazed by the majestic Victoria Falls in Zimbabwe and experience absolute isolation and untouched nature within the Makgadikgadi National Park.

The changing nature and versatile experience, the contrasts of jungle-like wildlife to absolute serene deserts

How to get most out of it: With an (organized) daytrip to the spectacular Victoria Falls in Zimbabwe

Listen to and watch the hippos in the Okavango river

Explore amazing Chobe National Park on guided boat cruises along the river

Witness the clearest and most starry sky of Makgadikgadi Natinoal Park

Brief Itinerary

• Day 1-4: Maun – Caprivi strip
• Day 5-7: Chobe National Park – Victoria Falls
• Day 8-9: Makgadikgadi National Park
• Day 10-12: Moremi National Park – Okavango Delta
• Day 13: Departure
• Day 14: Arrival Home

Detailed Itinerary

Route Highlights Botswana

Maun – Caprivi strip

Upon arrival in Maun, you will receive your fully equipped 4×4 rental vehicle and can acclimatize and rest after a long flight, before the journey ‘really’ starts the next day.

Past the western part of the Okavango Delta, the road takes you to Namibia. At the Caprivi-Strip, you have time to visit those national parks that are not yet visited by many, with the Popa falls around the corner – listen to and watch the hippos in the Okavango river.

The tour continues to the wettest part of the Caprivi, a green and lush area, almost delta-like. It is a green area with many birds and other animals such as elephants and water buffalo and the habitat of giant crocodiles.

Chobe National Park – Victoria Falls

Chobe National Park is home to over 120 000 Elephants

From the Caprivi, the border is crossed back to Botswana, to Kasane, the entrance ‘gate’ to the Chobe National Park. The Chobe River Front offers an overwhelming variety or flora and fauna, several days can be spent here easily and the Chobe National Park is home to over 120 000 Elephants!

Explore this amazing park on guided boat cruises along the river or via guided, or self-drive tours through the park.

Note: visit the spectacular Victoria Falls in Zimbabwe, a daytrip to this wonder of the worlds is highly recommended.

Explore Botswana offers organised self-drive holidays and safari tours to Botswana. You can go on an adventure in a fully equipped vehicle of your own choice. We will arrange your accommodations in advance, whether you wish to stay in lodges and guesthouses, on campsites or both.

What is included?

Accommodation (hotels, guesthouses, lodges or campsites)

Unlimited kilometres

Complete camping equipment (camping trip)

Car insurance with standard excess

Third party insurance

Most accommodations are booked with breakfast and camping is self-catering

Personal travel App for cell phone

24-hours emergency service

Tips and route information

Airport/hotel transfers

What is excluded?

International Flights

Park fees, entrance fees to museums

Personal expenses

Additional activities and excursions, e.g. game drives, boat trips, etc.

Meals (unless indicated as included)

Travel and cancellation insurance

Itineraries

14 Days Safari Tour

Explore the fascinating national parks and experience the best bits Botswana has to offer.

20 Days Safari Tour

Adventurous camping and you can hardly get closer in touch with nature.

Route Back to Basics

21 Days Safari Tour

Seek diversity; from far stretching savannas, to lush green oases and abundant wildlife.

Route Combi Namibia & Botswana

Makgadikgadi National Park

Ancient giants resting in an open field

Through Nata the journey continues to Gweta from where the vast plains of Makgadikgadi Natinoal Park and Nxai Pan can be explored. The famous Baines Baobabs will let you wonder about mother nature’s amazing forms and durability – like ancient giants resting in an open field.

And don’t forget to look up during the night, to witness the clearest and most starry sky – even clearly following the path of the milky way?

Maun – Moremi National Park – Okavango Delta

Visit the Okavango Delta by Mokoro

From Maun you can explore the Okavango Delta, either by yourself or in an organized activity. Or maybe even spend a night in this wild nature of the Moremi National Park? Very exciting!

The wetlands of the Moremi National Park offer an abundance of game. You can also visit the Delta by Mokoro (traditional kanu) or join a scenic flight over the Delta. There is enough to experience, for everyone!

End of tour - Departure - Arrival Home

Relax and rewind from an amazing adventure

Today you leave this wonderful country behind, to head back home – with your head full of beautiful memories.

Safari adventure with our reliable self-drive car rentals. Explore Botswana’s top destinations!

Below is an overview of what is included in your booking with Explore Botswana

Detailed explanation of the car (4×4 only)

Information:

Extensive information folder

Detailed route and road description

Description of places of interest

Tips and information

Standard accommodation tours include all rooms at middle-class hotels, guesthouses or lodges (mostly B&B), unless otherwise requested.

Standard camping tours include most nights at campsites, combined with several nights at middle-class hotels, guesthouse or lodges (mostly B&B).

Almost all campsites and accommodations have a restaurant and offer facilities like a pool, bar, info desk, etc.

If the trips includes visits to National Parks, then the nights will be spent inside the parks as much as possible.

Meals & Drinks:

Most accommodations are booked with breakfast and camping is self-catering. It will be clearly indicated what meals are included in your tour proposal.

With most accommodations it is also possible to book dinner in advance. If you would like to include this in your proposal, please let us know.

Below is an overview of what is excluded from your booking with Explore Botswana

What is not included?

International Flights (book separately with Explore Botswana)

Park fees, entrance fees to museums and personal expenses

Optional Extras?

Below is an overview of the optional extras you can add to your booking with Explore Botswana

Reduced excess on vehicle insurance

Satellite phone, which can be used everywhere in Africa

GPS-navigation system

Two-way radios

Also refer to our  Extra Options Car Rental

From the Okavango Delta to Chobe National Park, enjoy the liberty to discover Botswana’s treasures

Botswana self-drive trips.

The itineraries we offer to Botswana are fully customizable to your needs. You can book these, or you can use them for inspiration to build your own, tailor-made adventure to Botswana. See below some of our other sample itineraries to Botswana that we have put together. Explore Botswana will always make sure that you will experience the journey of your dreams!

Length: 14 Days (customizable)

Price from: €1.079,- EUR

Length: 20 Days (customizable)

Price from: €1.779,- EUR

Length: 21 Days (customizable)

Price from: €1.162,- EUR

Rent a 4×4 car with us and create your own unique safari adventure in Botswana

• Self drive trips
• 4×4 Car rental
• Custom tours
• Destinations

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Botswana Self Drive Adventure

The most complete Botswana self drive 4×4 trip we offer. 19 days self drive safari adventure!

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Botswana self drive adventure 19 days.

A stunning self-drive Botswana journey which will show you the most special areas of this Southern African country. This Botswana Self Drive is the most complete self drive journey you can imagine, including Chobe National Park, Moremi Game Reserve, the Kalahari Desert (Central Kalahari Game Reserve), the vast Makgadikgadi Pans and remarkable Kubu Island. Also visit the fertile and verdant Okavango Delta.

19 days of African highlights packed into one package. A purely self drive 4×4 adventure with camping in the untamed wilds, animals in the camp, endless vistas, stunning sunsets and remarkable 4×4 routes. You can also sometimes stay in fixed B&Bs and/or lodge accommodations.

Advantages of Self drive4x4 package trips

• Inclusive support and professional advice safari trip
• Inclusive GPS with Tracks4Africa software and all 4×4 waypoints and destinations for your trip
• Inclusive CDW2 insurance with Zero Excess
• A perfectly mapped route with optimal travel distances
• SGR cover for pre-paid funds (incl. Sicherungsschein for Germany)

Alternative Botswana Self Drive Adventures

This tour to long for you? Have a look at our 16 days or 14 days or 12 days Botswana tours.

• 2 : Caprivi (Kongola)
• 3 : Okavango Delta (Ngepi Camp)
• 4 : Okavango Delta (Ngepi Camp)
• 6 : Makgadikgadi National Park
• 8 : Kubu Island
• 9 : Central Kalahari Game Reserve (Deception Valley)
• 10 : Central Kalahari Game Reserve (Passarge Valley)
• 11 : Central Kalahari Game Reserve
• 13 : Moremi Game Reserve (Third Bridge)
• 14 : Moremi Game Reserve (Khwai)
• 15 : Chobe National Park (Savuti)
• 16 : Chobe National Park (Ihaha)
• 17 : Kasane
• 18 : Kasane
• 19 : Kasane/return flight

Route & itinerary

Day 1: kasane.

Arrive in Kasane, Botswana, today. After picking up the 4×4, drive to the camp for your first night in Botswana. You can also go on a sunset cruise on Chobe River. You stay at Senyati Safari Camp.

Accommodation: camping. Travel distance: 10 km.

Day 2: Caprivi (Kongola)

Heading off to Camp Kwando through the Caprivi Strip. A beautiful green and watery area.

Accommodation: camping. Travel distance: 250 km.

Day 3: Okavango Delta (Ngepi Camp)

The journey to Ngepi Camp (Bagani) on the Okavango River in the Okavango Delta’s Pan Handle crosses straight through the Caprivi Strip. From Ngepi Camp you can visit the Popa Falls or make an excursion into the Okavango Delta. If you like simply relax a day in the camp.

Day 4: Okavango Delta (Ngepi Camp)

The second day at Ngepi Camp . Go on a trip on the Kavango river (with Mekoro boat) or relaxt in the camp. Visit Popa Falls you can take an excursion over the Kavango rivir (with Mekoro) or just relax in camp. From Ngepi Camp you can also visit the Popa Falls and the exciting Mahango National Park.

Accommodation: camping. Travel distance: resting day.

Day 5: Maun

After your stay at Ngepi, you will move on to Maun today. You will arrive there in the afternoon, and you’ll have time to buy supplies and fuel. You stay at Discovery B&B .

Accommodation: B&B. Travel distance: 310 km.

Day 6: Makgadikgadi National Park

Early in the morning you will have time to make a round flight above the Okavango Delta if you like: one of the most beautiful areas of Botswana. Then, you’ll continue your 4×4 trip east and the Makgadikgadi Pans National Park. Camp for today Khumaga Campsite on the border of the Boteti river and the Makgadikgadi National Park.

Accommodation: camping. Travel distance: 160 km.

Day 7: Gweta

Time for a relaxed scenic drive in the park before heading off to Gweta. The little town of Gweta and the Planet Baobab camp at the edge of the Makgadikgadi Pans are the next destinations. On the way to Gweta it is also possible to make a detour into Nxai Pan National Park and visit Baines Baobabs.

Accommodation: camping. Travel distance: 115 km.

Day 8: Kubu Island

Today you’ll enjoy the beautiful trip to Kubu Island . You will cross the Nwetwe salt pan, and you’ll reach Kubu Island around lunch time. At the end of the dusty journey you will be rewarded with beautiful Kubu Island, a rocky island filled with stunning Baobab trees. The campsite is simple and located near the beach. You can discover Kubu Island on foot and enjoy the wide view and a beautiful sunset.

Accommodation: camping. Travel distance: 150 km.

Day 9: Central Kalahari Game Reserve (Deception Valley)

After Kubu Island, the trip will take you on a long day’s journey to Central Kalahari Game Reserve. We advise you to leave early in the morning. The journey will take you south across the salt pans and on to a level stretch of tarmac, which is a welcome change. The turn-off to Central Kalahari Game Reserve is a dusty sand road. Upon arrival in the vast Kalahari Reserve, you will go on to the Kori Pan campsite.

Accommodation: camping. Travel distance: 300 km.

Day 10: Central Kalahari Game Reserve (Passarge Valley)

Two entire days for game drives in the Kalahari Desert. You can look for the Kalahari Lion with its dark manes, and you might see the rare brown hyenas. Jackals, Bat Eared Foxes and a Honey Badger are among the regular sights. Antelopes you’ll see are the Gemsbuck, with its long horns, and the Springbok. Both animals can survive in this arid desert area. You stay at Sunday Pan Campsite .

Accommodation: camping. Travel distance: 40-200 km game drives.

Day 11: Central Kalahari Game Reserve

Today you will go to Motopi Camp in the western part of the reserve. The drive to go there is one big game drive.

Accommodation: camping. Travel distance: 70-200 km game drives.

Day 12: Maun

After Central Kalahari, you’ll get back to civilisation on the journey to Maun. The first part of the journey will take you across dirt roads, while the second part consists of tarmac roads. You have the option of travelling by Kuke Fence. However, this is a longer route. In Maun it is possible to book a flight over the Okavango Delta. You stay at Discovery B&B .

Accommodation: B&B. Travel distance: 200 km.

Day 13: Moremi Game Reserve (Third Bridge)

In the morning, there’s time to buy supplies and Diesel in Maun. Then, your self-drive safari will take you through Moremi Game Reserve and the Third Bridge Camp . Third Bridge is at the edge of the Okavango Delta. This day is perfect for game drives and spotting many safari animals that live in the Moremi Reserve. You have a good chance to spot lions, hyenas and leopards. Even elephants and antelopes. The camps in Botswana are not fenced, so various animals may visit the camp at night.

Accommodation: camping. Travel distance: 130 km.

Day 14: Moremi Game Reserve (Khwai)

After the morning game drive you will go on through Moremi Game Reserve and the second camp, Khwai (North Gate). This day is also reserved for game drives and spotting the many safari animals living in the Moremi Reserve. In the afternoon, you will arrive at North Gate and the Khwai campsite . After setting up camp it’s time to relax and make an evening game drive along the Khwai River.

Accommodation: camping. Travel distance: 65 km.

Day 15: Chobe National Park (Savuti)

The 4×4 trip from Khwai in the Moremi Game Reserve to Chobe Savuti is one big game drive that will show you many animals. For any Botswana trip, it’s advisable to start early and go on another game drive around North Gate camp before you continue to Chobe National Park. In the afternoon, you will arrive at the Savuti Campsite . This part of Chobe is famous for its Bull Elephants and the Savuti Pride (pride of lions) living on the Savuti Marsh. The Savuti Channel running through the area to the Savuti Marsh was dry for many years, but it has seen running water the last few years. In the afternoon, there is plenty of time for an extensive game drive to discover this remarkable area of Botswana.

Accommodation: camping. Travel distance: 110 km.

Day 16: Chobe National Park (Ihaha)

After Chobe National Park Savuti you’ll travel to the northern part of Chobe National Park. On the sandy tracks the 4×4 is indispensable. In the afternoon, you will arrive in Ihaha Campsite , at the Chobe River shore.

Accommodation: camping. Travel distance: 140 km.

Day 17: Kasane

Today you will drive to the Chobe Safari Lodge . A short drive with early arrival in Kasane. You can use the afternoon to relax in Kasane. We recommend to go on the Chobe River Sunset cruise.

Accommodation: camping. Travel distance: 40 km.

Day 18: Kasane

Another night at Chobe Safari Lodge . The last full day in Botswana. You can take a day trip to the Victoria Falls in Zimbabwe or spend the entire day driving through Chobe National Park.

Day 19: Kasane/return flight

The last day of your Botswana journey, after returning the 4×4 car, you will go on to your next destination.

Your custom self drive 4×4 itinerary

All our self drive trips can be adjusted to your personal requirements. Staying somewhere for a day longer or adding another destination is not a problem. Ask us about the possibilities and we are happy to help you!

Your 4x4 rental car

The default car is a Toyota Hilux 4×4 double cab 2.4 Diesel .

The Toyota Hilux double cab is the most perfect 4×4 rental car for a self-drive safari in Africa.

It has much space and comfort, and has sleeping places in the roof tent. This Toyota Hilux Double Cab 4×4 has a separate boot where you can safely store your travel bags, together with all the camping equipment for your self-drive journey in Southern Africa.

Available for both 2 and 4 people, the Hilux is the best choice. For travels with 5 people (two adults and three children) the Hilux double cab can also be used.

If you’re with just two people, the back seat is especially useful for photo bags, day packs and supplies.

It is possible to upgrade car at extra costs.

Check here all our 4×4 rental cars.

Prices per person for various dates in 2024 and 2025. This Botswana Self Drive Adventure is available for 2 to 4 people per car. The default car is a Toyota Hilux 4×4 double cab 2.4 Diesel. The price for 5 people or more can be requested and depends on the local possibilities and space in the preferred car. 4×4 cars (Land Cruiser or e.g. 4×4 camper) other than the default 4×4 car are available upon request.

20 March - 30 June, (2024)

Optional CDW (Zero Excess) insurance incl. tires and glass € 410,- per trip.

1 July - 10 November, (2024)

11 november - 4 january, (2025), 5 january - 19 march, (2025), 20 march - 30 june, (2025), 1 july - 10 november, (2025), not included, okavango delta, makgadikgadi salt pans botswana, central kalahari game reserve, moremi game reserve, chobe national park.

A town with perfect access to the North of the Chobe National Park

The gateway to the Caprivistrip

One of Africa's most enchanted places

Gateway to the Okavango Delta

Impressive 12.000 km² salt pans including Ntwetwe Pan and Sua Pans

Ideal stop before starting your adventure at the Makgadikgadi Salt pans

The Kalahari sands form one of Africa’s most prominent geographical features. Explore this vast desert by 4x4.

One of the most impressive game areas of Botswana

Skillful people

It was a really good experience and they are skillful to plan and give quick response with answers.

Good knowledge of Africa and the countries there. What to visit and they plan the trip so it suits the customer. Quick response when you have questions.

Christer Jonson

Adequate hulp.

Selfdrive4x4.com biedt adequate en deskundige hulp bij zowel het plannen van het reisschema, het regelen van autohuur en het daarbij horende papierwerk (verzekeringen, transfers) en het vastleggen van de camping- en lodge-locaties.

Perfect organization

Selfdrive4x4.com offers the perfect organization of the trip for selfdrivers.

Very easy handling, good communication.

Perfect, I would recommend it to everybody to work together with it.

Friendly people – very fast in answering questions – high knowlede about the things you need at your destination and for a 4×4 driving holiday – easy to comunicate with.

Improvements or suggestions

Right know for my use it was perfect. Especially since I am not next door, and just worked together via internet and phone.

Niedereder Raimund

We would recommend selfdrive4x4.com to our friends.

We booked a last minute 17 day self drive trip through Namibia with this company and everything was just perfect. Contact with the company was very pleasant and they kept us posted with updates about the progress of our trip. Gps, maps, book and 12V equipment was sent to our home as soon as our trip was confirmed.

Price wise it was a great deal and everything in Namibia (car and layovers) were to our satisfaction. We would definitely book again with this company and we would recommend it to our friends.

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Street Food

The winter months are time to get the bicycle out and explore.  And one of the pleasures of cycling is that you can easily smell the street food cooking as you go by.

Here is a selection of some interesting street delicacies

Clockwise from the plate below the helmet ….

Braised chicken feet

Chicken intestines garnished with chilli, served with sorghum porridge and cooked bean leaves

Watermelon slices

Cooked ‘mophane worm’ caterpillars

Diced butternut

The drinks are sorghum beer (brown) and mageu, a kind of lightly fermented maize flour.

Elephants alongside the A3

It’s the end of the rainy season.  There wasn’t much rain this year,  and water is already scarce in the Nxai Pan and Makgadikgadi Pans National Parks.  The local elephants have learned to find it for themselves by tapping into the local water supply pipelines.  They are strong enough to lift off the concrete covers, and dextrous enough to turn the purging valves with their trunks.  These photos were taken along the roadside between Phuduhudu and Gweta.  The elephants are seemed unconcerned about the drivers stopping to watch them.

Exploring the Magic of Botswana in February: A Self Drive Adventure

February marks the height of summer in Botswana, a time when the wilderness comes alive with vibrant colors, abundant wildlife, and thrilling adventures waiting to be discovered. As the sun casts its golden glow over the savannah and the rivers flow with life-giving water, there’s no better time to embark on a self-drive safari through this untamed paradise. Join us as we delve into the magic of Botswana in February and uncover the wonders that await around every corner.

The Okavango Delta is a jewel in Botswana’s crown, and in February, it reaches its peak as floodwaters from the Angolan highlands transform the landscape into a lush oasis teeming with life. Navigate the labyrinth of water channels in a traditional mokoro (dugout canoe), keeping an eye out for hippos, crocodiles, and a dazzling array of birdlife. Camp under the star-studded African sky on remote islands, surrounded by the sounds of the bush and the gentle lapping of water against the reeds.

February 2024

Mmakodu National Monument

At first glance just another large baobab tree, providing welcome shade on a hot day.   But this one is is at the Mmakodu National Monument, at the SE end of the Tswapong Hills.  Thirteen hundred years ago people were smelting iron here.  Working the bellows of a forced draft furnace is hot work, and they appreciated the shade of these baobabs too.  Pieces of banded ironstone ore, slag, and clay tuyere pipe litter the ground.

The Batswapong people were trading iron and steel objects over a wide area right up to historical times.  An interesting place to visit.

January 2024

A touch of Sophistication

Quite a few people back in New Zealand ask me what is it like living in Botswana and what do I miss the most. That is a hard question and some obvious answers re family and friends but living out in the bush not far from Palapye I would describe life as unsophisticated. Sure we have the mod cons that go with water , sewerage and electricity  but the long macchiato is not on offer, good blue cheese is hard to find etc.  

However, the everyday interactions with locals makes up for it and every so often we can get a touch of sophistication with a weekend in Gaborone going to a wonderful Saturday afternoon jazz concert, great food at a stunning outdoor restaurant in the bush and then the next day a wine over looking the Gaborone Dam at the yacht club as the sun sets.  

I saw a sign at a local café today that said ‘what can be more luxurious than a sofa, a glass of wine and good music’  .… how true 

And every picture tells a story  

Dinner in the bush and no Warthog is not the special on the menu! 

Smoked Malva pudding delicious! 

As the sun sets over the dam  

December 2023

Botswana’s beautiful Sunset!

This has to be one of Botswana’s most mesmerizing features that everyone can enjoy while you’re here. For starters it’s free!, and can be enjoyed just about anywhere. This particular picture was taken at Kasane Self Catering Apartments. They have a platform with a picnic table and chairs. You can enjoy sitting here for hours on end watching the boats go with a nice nice cold drink after a long day of travel

November 2023

The Kolobeng River

It is the very end of the dry season in Botswana. In 10 days or so the first rains will arrive. Here in the village of Manyana the last rains were back in April. But the Kolobeng River, springfed, is still flowing.

The never-ending flow of water led Dr David Livingstone to establish his mission station alongside the river in 1847.  The very first mission station in Botswana, now preserved as a national monument.  It is a few kilometres upstream. 

Here in Manyana village he conducted weekly clinics and church services under a giant fig tree, a tree which is still standing.  

This is a peaceful backwater of Botswana which sees very few tourists, but it is a great place for both hikers and history buffs, and Gillian and I really enjoyed our visit. 

October 2023

The Festive Season has finally begun

While in other countries in this part of the world, the festive season starts around late November through to early January. It’s a season that is centered around Christmas and New Years. But in Botswana, the season starts on the 30 of September, Independence day, a rather fitting day for it to start really!. It’s a time of jubilation in all respects, right through to January. It’s the day we all consider as the beginning of the rainy season, a day that all farmers have marked out in their calendars. And the beginning of the wedding season. The Department of Civil and National Registration office in Palapye has recorded high volumes of marriage registration between the months of October and January. An odd time to plan such an event since it’s the hottest months and there is a high chance of rain. But I believe it’s the spirit of jubilation in the air that makes people want to celebrate their special day during this time.

September 2023

Victoria Falls!

Peo and I recently took a trip out to the Victoria Falls. We were fortunate enough to visit both the Zambian and Zimbabwean side and I must say, no matter which side you look at it from, its one of the most breathtaking sites I have ever seen. We had a lovely time on our trip there and I would recommend this to anyone traveling to these parts of the world. Absolutely incredible!

August 2023

Climbing the Highest Hill in Botswana!

For anyone who likes to tick off the highest peak in each country Botswana is a bit of a challenge.  There are several hills which lay claim to being the highest in the country. They are all very close in altitude; and the reported heights vary from map to map.  Google Earth is no help here as the differences in elevation are within the margin of error of its estimates.  But the hill shown on my map as the very highest is Monanalong Hill at 1503 m.

From a distance this looks like an easy hill to climb.  Just a walk really.  In practice thick, thorny scrub and loose basalt cobbles underfoot make the going a bit difficult. Kudu have made trails but they are mostly going across rather than up and down the slope.

Did I reach the summit ?    The top of the hill is relatively flat and covered with bushes and trees so it is  hard to know. But I’ve ticked  it off my list regardless !

The C.L. Woolcott Vulture Restaurant

I really like watching birds.  So it’s perhaps no surprise that one of my favourite places near Ghanzi is the C.L. Woolcott Vulture Restaurant.  It’s part of the game reserve at the Thakadu Bush Lodge, and dedicated to the memory of the late Chris Woolcott, who farmed here for many years and was an avid supporter of vulture conservation. 

The restaurant itself is simple enough.  It’s a clearing in the bush, surrounded by tall trees.  Livestock which have met their end on the A3 highway are scraped off the roadside and dumped in the clearing, providing a ready meal for the white-backed and lappet-faced vultures which breed in the area.  The carcasses also attract marabou storks, brown hyaena and other scavengers. 

For the human visitors there is an underground concrete bunker.  Eye level slits provide a great view of the action and the possibility of some amazing close-up photos.  The interior walls are covered with vulture fun facts and wisdom to entertain the children.

Definitely THE place to be in Ghanzi.

March 21 2023

The only way is up!

Botswana has a lot of hills that offer great views and an excellent opportunity for exercise. In my opinion, you can get that out of any hill anywhere in the world. Hills with interesting stories behind them make it all the more worthwhile. Like the Eastern Hills of Botswana, specifically the ones located in the Shoshong area. There is so much history that can be found here. Old boreholes, burial sites, old churches, and their bells, even Zulu beads growing free on top of the hills. And YES, the views are epic but don’t take my word for it, try it. For only USD5 for a guide it’s absolutely worth it.

February 26 2023

Summer in the Okavango Delta

Most tourists visit the Okavango Delta during the winter. In winter the swamps and rivers are full of water, which is flowing down from the highlands of Angola.  During the summer the Delta dries up.  Not completely, because summer is our rainy season.  But the floodplains and swamps that would be underwater in the main tourist season become a vast expanse of lush grassland.

This summer Gillian and I took our holiday in the Delta, staying at Oddballs Camp.  We arrived by light plane.  The pilot had to make several passes to encourage an elephant to move off the airstrip.  (The same elephant later came to visit us at our tent – it takes a proprietary interest in the place and likes to check out new arrivals).  When we left there was a pack of African wild dogs on the runway to see us off.  So no complaints about the wildlife viewing !

People often ask us what the Delta is like in the off-season, and now we know.  There are baby animals galore, taking advantage of all the greenery.  The bird life is prolific.  All the summer migrants are here. You can walk everywhere – no need for a dugout canoe.  And it is really, really quiet.  We were the only guests and had the camp to ourselves. 

A great start to 2023!

January 17 2023

It is the very end of the dry season in Botswana.  In 10 days or so the first rains will arrive.  Here in the village of Manyana the last rains were back in April.  But the Kolobeng River, springfed, is still flowing.

The never-ending flow of water led Dr David Livingstone to establish his mission station alongside the river in 1847.  The very first mission station in Botswana, now preserved as a national monument.  It is a few kilometres upstream.

Here in Manyana village he conducted weekly clinics and church services under a giant fig tree, a tree which is still standing. 

This is a peaceful backwater of Botswana which sees very few tourists, but it is a great place for both hikers and history buffs, and Gillian and I really enjoyed our visit.

December 23 2022

It’s the off season for self-drive tourists. So we have time to do a little work on our Tswapong Trails project.  

The Tswapong Hills are criss-crossed with old foot tracks.  These were once the only way to get from village to village.  Nowadays most use the tarred roads even though these take the long way round.  But the old tracks are a great recreational resource for hikers.

So we are doing our bit to keep them open.  Right now we are working on a 9 km self-guiding trail, with numbered stops about every 10 minutes along the way.  There are porcupine warrens; hyaena and aardvark burrows; the anvil stones used by the local baboons to break into the hard shelled mogwagwa fruits; a viewpoint over the Lotsane floodplain; and a lot of interesting trees.  Reflective markers mean that you can walk it at night if you want to experience the sounds of the forest at night.

A walk in the hills is part of the tourist offering at Segaigai Farm, but the old foot tracks are available for everyone.  Come and walk one of them if you are passing !

November 13 2022

The road less travelled

While the north of Botswana is rich with wildlife and luxury lodges there are other parts that seem more remote and offer great wildlife viewing just driving along the road. We recently travelled to the Tuli block for a weekend camping by the side of the Limpopo River. We were at a rustic campsite within a game reserve. We hardly noticed the fact that there was no electricity with hurricane lamps in the individual ablutions and water heated for you by a ‘donkey’. On the way down to our campsite we came upon a waterhole with about 25 elephants drinking and bathing. It was wonderful to watch the orderly way in which they accessed the clean drinking water in turn then went off to dust or water bathe, from tiny babies to the matriarch. At our campsite we could see hippos in the water not far away and were visited by a couple of bushbucks. It was a great location to sit and watch birds around the campsite and in the trees across the river in South Africa. Other animals we saw as we drove around the reserve and along the roadside included zebra, warthog, eland, hyrax, vervet monkeys, baboons, giraffe, impala, kudu, wildebeest, klipspringer, springhare, hyena and banded mongoose. Our campsite cost less than $20US/ night for the two of us and the rich wildlife viewing was free. Who said Botswana was an expensive place to visit?

24 September 2022

My favorite place in Botswana

It’s no secret I love animals, and up there with dogs are elephants for me. I’ve had the pleasure of being to Elephant Sands a few times and it’s amazing every single time. This is a must visit whilst in Botswana!

19 August 2022

A unique Christmas Brunch

Being home in Kalamare is always so different. Our house there has always been like a holiday home, a place to go to get away from our “normal” lives. When we are there we kind of become different people. We break away from the chains of the busy town life and just go back to basics, and we LOVE IT! 

My sister was craving my magwinya (ma-g-wi-n-ya) , so I agreed to indulge her cravings and make some only if she made the side dish. Magwinya are fat cakes, they are prepared the same as doughnuts, without sprinkles and chocolate dip. They are very popular in Botswana. Most people enjoy having them with tea for breakfast, but you can enjoy them with a stew or soup as well.

My family enjoys my magwinya, It has become my signature dish! But I usually prepare them on a stove so cooking them on an open fire was going to be a first for me. First, I prepared the dough. I mixed flour, sugar, salt, and dry yeast together. The secret of good magwinya is in the dough. It’s important to get the right consistency with the dough. After letting it sit in the sun for about 30 minutes I started the fire. I put oil in a cast-iron pot. Once the oil was hot enough then it is time to cook. 

I was really nervous about cooking on an open fire, I was worried about how I would be able to control the heat. It is easy enough to do on a stove, but on an open fire, that’s another story. But I handled it like a pro if I have to say to myself. As expected, as soon as the smell of the magwinya filled the yard, my family started to come closer to wait for the first round to come out. Like a pack of hungry hyenas waiting for a pack of lions to be done with a carcass so that they can have their turn! 

In the meantime, my sister was busy cooking some goat seswaa (se-s-waa) and spinach that she picked from my fathers’ garden. Seswaa is pounded meat. It is cooked in a pot with water and salt. Cooked until it is falling off the bone and pounded with a wooden spoon.  

This was a uniques lunch because a typical Christmas lunch is the usual 7 colours. A meal with different starches, meat dishes, and salads of different colours. This was a simple meal, prepared around the fire. As good as the meal was, I think the company of my family, all sitting there, enjoying each others company made it even more special!

1 July 2022

The Dikate Hills

Something that has always intrigued me in Botswana is the number of archaeological sites found on hilltops.  

The first Bantu peoples to arrive here about 1400 years ago preferred to live on hills.  They were herdsmen.  A hill with rocky ramparts and a flat top was a good place to keep your livestock at nights, easily defended against predators and cattle thieves.  A hilltop also provides cooling breezes; a commanding view of your surroundings; and some relief from mosquitoes during the rainy season.  The very best hills would be surrounded by cliffs and have just one possible route to the summit plateau.  A promising hilI might be occupied for a thousand years, and one telltale sign of past occupation is the deep and very rich soil on the plateau and the characteristic assemblage of plants that grow in it.   

Occupied hills also seem to have a lot of fruiting trees associated with them.  The Bantu peoples certainly knew about horticulture, but whether the trees were deliberately planted or simply grew from discarded seeds is hard to know. 

The Dikalate Hills are about 15 km from the A1 highway at Topisi, and accessible by 2×4 car.  But they feel like they are in the middle of nowhere.  The view from the top can’t have changed much in the last millennium

The first photo below shows the Child Hill, viewed from the Female Hill.  Both were occupied in prehistoric times.  The tree in the foreground is a small-leaved rock fig, Ficus tettensis.  The fruits are delicious.

The second photo shows the view to the south from the summit of the Female Hill.  Strange that in Botswana some hills have gender !  There is an old trail along the foot of the hills in the distance. Great country for hiking ….

23 June 2022

A Day out at the Yacht Club

One of the places you absolutely have to visit if you’re in Gaborone. Beautiful views of the Gaborone Dam!

15 May 2022

An abandoned house in Lephephe wells

There is a lot of history in Botswana. The sparse population and the dry climate means that many buildings are still standing, unused, a century after they were abandoned. Standing mute, just waiting for their stories to be told.

This is the remains of one of them, in the tiny village of Lephephe Wells.  Lephephe Wells was a bustling place for a few decades in the latter half of the 19 th Century.  It was an important stop on the ‘Missionary’ road to the north: a place where travelers could rest, have their wagon repaired, and restock with water and provisions before moving on to the huge village of Shoshong and then striking out into the unknown.

Missionaries, traders, big game hunters, gold seekers and adventurers all passed this way.   Famous names such as David Livingstone, Robert Moffat, Emil Holub and George Gordon-Cumming. 

But the missionary road lost its importance in 1889 when Khama III and his people abandoned Shoshong in favour of Old Palapye, a long way to the east.   And when the Cape to Cairo Railroad reached Palapye Road in 1896 Lephephe Wells was far from the line of rail.  By 1900 the traders, wheelwrights, blacksmiths and hoteliers had all gone.  But the stories remain…….

If you want to visit Lephephe Wells, or the neighbouring villages of Sojwe and Hatsalatladi we can get you there, and our guide notes will pass on some of the stories.

April 26 2022

Cooking mapakiwa with dad

My dad has been retired for the past 7 years. When he retired he stuck around for a while in Palapye, but then later decided that there really was nothing for him to do in Palapye. So he packed his bags and moved back to his home village, Kalamare. Kalamare is a small village situated amongst the eastern hills of Botswana. His new life now is taking care of the house and his vegetable garden at Kalamare and visiting his cattle post from time to time.

I try my best to visit him as often as I can. When I’m there we try to spend as much time together as possible doing things together. We go for walks, we share meals together and do some gardening together. On this particular visit, I had promised to show him how to cook mapakiwa (ma-pa-kee-wa). These are Setswana bread rolls. People generally cook them in an oven but the best way in my opinion is outside on the fire.

My father had already collected firewood, so as he made the fire, I started making the dough. It’s a simple mixture of flour, water, yeast, salt, and sugar. Some people (aka my mother), prefer to use baking powder as a raising agent, but I am more comfortable using yeast. Once the dough has raised, into the pot it goes! You cook it with coal. We put coal under the pot and on top of the pot. You have to keep controlling the temperature so that it doesn’t burn. So we sat outside under the stars and had a lovely chat while we waited for the bread.

Once the bread was almost done, we brewed some tea over the fire and had it with our bread. A wonderful combination if I have to say so myself!

March 23 2022

Valentine’s Day

A lazy Sunday afternoon at CNS, Palapye, enjoying their traditional game meat and lerotse sorghum with a wine while listening to Trinity Mpho as a pre-Valentines Day celebration.

February 14 2022

‘Madombi Le Nama’

Dumplings and Beef, one of Botswana’s most loved dishes. Today we indulged in the national delicacy with the troops. For me, it’s definitely up there in my top choices for any meal, I would happily eat this for breakfast, lunch or dinner. Count me in!

January 18 2022

The Beauty of the Rainy Season

Right now in Botswana it’s the rainy season. Everyone gets excited when it rains.  After months of no rain everything is dry and dusty. The first rains signal the ploughing season and crops are planted. I love this time as the bush turns from bare branches to lush green in a matter of days such that you feel you are in a slow motion David Attenborough documentary. Wild flowers begin to pop up everywhere as pictured below. And the rain cools things down from the searing heat.

December 7 2021

A fun run in a game farm!

‘Whatever you do, don’t run’ is the advice always given to visitors to the big national parks in Botswana.  Even Usain Bolt couldn’t outrun a lion, and running  makes you an inviting target for a chase.  So going jogging or cycling in the big national parks of Botswana would be foolhardy, and there are only a few spots where you are allowed out of your vehicle.

But everyone in Botswana bis fond of wildlife, and many of us also like to exercise.  Kenmoir Game Farm, just outside Gaborone, is one place where you can watch wildlife and take exercise at the same time.  They have a farm run every Saturday where you can run on one of three trails – 5.5; 12.5 and 21.7 km.  The 21.7 km trail is also open to cyclists.  In these days of Covid-19 the only race is against the clock, but who cares about times if you come across a business of banded mongoose or a herd of wildebeest ?  

Kenmoir Farm is not on the standard tourist circuit.  It caters mostly to locals.  But if you are going to be in Gaborone on a Saturday morning this is a great way to spend some time, and tourists are welcome to join in.

I’ve borrowed these pictures of Kenmoir Farm from their website.  The site also gives you the directions of how to get there, some downloadable GPX files to help you navigate the longer courses, and posts the times to beat.  Entry is limited to control numbers and you have to register in advance, which you can do online here   https://www.thetrail.run/virtual-races/ .

December 5 2021

The Great Outdoors!

One of the things we enjoy about running this company is that it provides an excuse to get out in the great outdoors.  There have always been plenty of opportunities for this in Botswana, but when I was a university academic it was often hard to make the time.  Now I have to do it to check out the opportunities available to our clients.

This image was taken from the flanks of the female Swaneng Hill near Serowe.  You can see the male Swaneng Hill in the background.  The flat top of the male Swaneng hill was fortified by the Tsweneng tribe, who gave the hills these names.  The plant that looks a bit like a cactus in the foreground is a ‘Transvaal Candelabra’, a species of Euphorbia .

 I lived in Serowe for a year, but never found time to climb the hill and look at the fort.   Always too many things to do for and with my students. But I finally ticked this one off last week, and now there is a guide note waiting for any clients who want to follow in my footsteps…

August 11 2021

Welcome to Our Office!

Welcome to the home of DIY self drive tours. This is our office and it is based in the charming town of  Palapye, Botswana. Palapye holds a very special place in all of our hearts and it is here that most of the team reside. The 68 sqm structure sits on a farm located at the foot of the Tswapong hills which makes for a lovely view from the office. This structure is made entirely out of timber, it has  wooden pine floors and walls made from rhino board. Construction of the office started in early May of 2021 and was completed three weeks later. 

While it’s still under construction and still needs to undergo some more painting(done by us) as well as fittings here and there,  we hope our vision and ideas for the space will  come together nicely and this will be where we run our day to day operations for DIY.

August 12 2021

Look who we found!

This cutie is a Western Stripe-Bellied Sand Snake, Psammophis subtaeniatus . They are typically found in pairs.  A pair will travel everywhere together and share a burrow.  Our friend Clement says that in his part of Zimbabwe these snakes are venerated as ancestors, and must not be touched or harmed in any way.  I haven’t the heart to tell him that many of these snakes have historically been captured and shipped from southern Africa to Europe as terrarium pets.  Perhaps something he wouldn’t really want to know.

This snake was in a mopane tree on the track between our house and the company office, side by side with his mate.  I ran back to the house to get a camera, but on my return the female was heading back down their hole at the base of the tree.  Only the male stayed on to be photographed.

If I manage to get a photo of them together next time I will post it here.

These snakes are completely harmless and it is nice to have them around.