safari tents culzean castle

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Culzean Castle Camping & Caravanning Club Site

Scotland, lowlands, south ayrshire, maybole, alan rogers review of culzean castle camping & caravanning club site.

With wonderful views over the Firth of Clyde towards the Isle of Arran from some pitches, this quiet Camping and Caravanning Club site is next door to Culzean Castle (pronounced Kullayne). Surrounded by beautiful countryside and stunning coastline, it is fantastic for walking as well as many interesting places to visit. Visitors can buy tickets to walk in the castle grounds (when open) with 17 miles of footpaths. The campsite has 90 pitches, some level, others slightly sloping, and 60 have 10A electrical hook-ups. A few level pitches are suitable for motorhomes and 20 pitches have hardstanding. American-style motorhomes (more than 25 ft) must contact the site prior to arrival as large pitches are limited. The site also has 4 Safari tents available for hire.

N.B. Non-members are welcome and may join on site. Please speak to site staff for details and to check pitch availability before arrival.

The 18th-century, clifftop castle is built on the site of a former ancient castle and its armoury exhibition is superb. A full programme of events is staged at the castle over the season, including special children’s weeks, sheepdog trials, bands, battle re-enactments, ranger walks and craft fairs. Should you have your fill of the castle and its grounds, Maybole with shops, etc. is only four miles and the area has a wealth of places to visit. Besides woodland walks, a deer park and aviary, there are three miles of rocky shore and small sandy beaches to explore..

Facilities at Culzean Castle Camping & Caravanning Club Site

The toilet blocks, kept very clean, can be heated and include some washbasins in cubicles. Accessible facilities has a WC, washbasin and shower, an excellent facility.Well equipped laundry. Baby changing. Motorhome service point. Chemical toilet point. Information area. Small shop for basics (opens for short periods morning and evening). Gas sales. Adventure playground. Ice pack freezer. Pets welcome. Dog walk. Caravan& motorhome storage. Mobile phone reception for some networks is poor. TV reception poor. One car per unit. Earliest arrival time 13.00. Wi-Fi in some areas (free).

• American Motor Homes
• Boat Launch Nearby
• Childrens Play Area
• Fishing Nearby
• Golf Nearby
• Seaside Beach Nearby
• Shop Nearby
• Twin Axle Caravans Accepted
• Vehicle Storage
• Wifi Partial Site

Accessibility

• Accessible shower
• Accessible WC

Directions to Culzean Castle Camping & Caravanning Club Site

Do not go into Ayr, instead from Maybole follow signs for Culzean Castle and Country Park, turning in the town onto B7023 which runs into the A719. The Country Park entrance is clearly signed on the right after 3.75 miles; entrance to caravan park is on the right in Country Park drive.

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Culzean Castle Camping & Caravanning Club Site

The site is in the grounds of Culzean Castle.

Culzean Club Site is situated in the grounds of a castle, a fantastic example of Robert Adams architecture that stands dramatically on a cliff. our club site has amazing views across the sea to the Isle of Arran. Culzean Castle and country park hosts many events including Scottish country dancing and music festivals. managed by the National Trust for Scotland, the park covers nearly 600 acres of Ayrshires finest woodland and costal paths. campers are entitled to discounted entrance fees and the Castle visitor centre is a ten minute walk from site. Non-members welcome.

Ready Camp tents are available at this site.

• Pets Welcome

Accessibility

• Accessible toilets
• Wet room or level entry shower
• Caravan Holiday
• Self Catering
• Outdoor Play Area
• Laundry Facilities
• Public Toilet Facilities
• Hot Water Shower/ Washing Facilities
• Mains Electricity

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• Credit Card
• Sea/Loch View

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CULZEAN CASTLE READY CAMP Glamping Scotland

• Price per night Price £ 31

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• Safari Tents

Description

Glamping scotland.

The best in glamping, our tents at Culzean Castle Ready Camp in Scotland offer a wonderful balance between contemporary and outdoor living. Glamping in Scotland takes the strain out of camping with furnished tents, proper beds, dining area and more. With castles, coastlines, mulls and sunsets to die for this area of Scotland is simply magical. Our glamping holidays in Culzean Castle are based in the grounds of the famous castle with magnificent island and sea views. Sitting on the South Ayrshire coast, glamping at Culzean Castle Campsite is the perfect way to experience Scotland’s wonderful outdoors. Start your exploring at Culzean Castle and Country Park which is only a short walk from your glamping tent. Enjoy the fantastic views across the Firth of Clyde to the islands of Arran, Ailsa Craig and the Mull of Kintyre. It’s also where you’ll find the 18th century castle with dramatic views over the water perched high up on the cliff tops. Down at sea level there’s coastline with sand dunes, caves, rock pools and pretty shingle beaches ready to explore.

With Ready Camp, there’s no need to fill the car with camping paraphernalia and ‘just in cases’. We provide a ready-prepped safari-style tent that’s packed to the rafters with creature comforts. We’re talking real beds and bedrooms, a dining area, mini kitchen, a comfy sofa… even a corkscrew!

Tents Sleeps 4 or 6 (4 adults, or 2 adults and up to 4 children)

The safari tents include:

• Triple Bunk bed
• Pull out bed
• Two seater settee
• Table and six chairs
• Dinner plates, Side plates, Bowls, Table mats and Mugs for six
• Forks, Knives, Tablespoons, Teaspoons for six
• Tumblers and Wine glasses
• Food containers
• Five Piece kitchen utensil set
• Sharp Knives, Peeler, Scissors and Corkscrew
• Chopping boards
• Bin, Dustpan and brush
• Washing bowl
• Clothes hanger and Hangers
• Spotlight lamps
• Lounge light
• Set of porch awning lights

WHAT YOU WILL NEED TO BRING All you need to bring is bedding, towels, tea towels, blankets if you wish for chilly nights, clothing and food.

FACILITIES The campsite includes an on-site holiday manager, hot showers, toilets, washing areas and a children’s play area.

LOCAL AREA Ayrshire, renowned for its beautiful countryside and coastline is a fantastic place for walking, beautiful beaches and interesting places to visit. Ayr is a lovely coastal town with pretty buildings, a charming sea front and a long and sandy beach. Close by, the Burns Heritage Park in Alloway, the birthplace of Robert Burns is well worth a visit. See a collection of the Scottish poets works and discover the historic landmarks where he set his greatest work. If you fancy a flutter, head out to Ayr Racecourse, which hosts many Flat and National Hunt meetings. Hop on a wildlife spotting cruise or perhaps a boat trip to explore the Isle of Arran or Ayrshire coastline. This beautiful region is home to a number of nature reserves including Glenbuck Loch, Catrine Voes and Ayr Gorge where there is a very good chance of sighting kingfishers, otters, great spotted woodpeckers and even ospreys.

COST From ￡31 per night Please note this is a guide price only and prices will vary dependent on availability and location Ready Camp do not permit any pets 4 Safari Tents Available for Booking Open from April – November

Accommodation

4 or 6 (4 adults, or 2 adults and up to 4 children)

• Family Friendly
• Romantic Break

Culzean Castle Camping and Caravanning Club Site, Culzean Castle, Maybole KA19 8JX, UK

Contact Information

• Website https://campingandcaravanningclub.co.uk
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Culzean Castle Ready Camp Glamping in Ayrshire

Graced with castles, culture and captivating scenery, Scotland is a joy for all the senses, and glamping in Culzean Castle is the perfect way to experience it. Our well-equipped Culzean Castle glamping site sits in the grounds of the famous castle itself, occupying a fairytale spot perched on the cliff-tops with magnificent sea and island views. Enjoy the perfect balance between al fresco living and homely comforts in a fabulous glamping tent, which is well-prepped and spacious with solid furnishings, real beds, kitchen facilities and your own decked terrace. The campsite itself is kitted-out with hot showers, clean toilets, washing areas and a children's play area, with plenty more in the way of entertainment just outside the site. After a comfortable slumber and a hearty breakfast, explore the grounds of Culzean Castle and Country Park, just a short walk from your front door. Savour the fantastic views across the Firth of Clyde and enjoy a brisk walk or a bracing paddle down at sea level. Ayrshire is ripe for walking, cycling and picnics, and Ayr itself is a lovely coastal town with plenty of local activities. Head to Ayr racecourse for a flutter, visit the birthplace of Robert Burns, or hop on a wildlife-spotting cruise to explore Ayrshire's coastline. With so much to see and do, our Culzean Castle glamping holidays are the perfect way to discover this captivating corner of Scotland. Included in your Ready Camp tent: Double bed Triple Bunk bed Pull out bed Dining Table with 6 Chairs & seatpads 2-Seater settee Floor lamp 2 Spotlight amps Fridge Microwave Kettle Toaster Lounge light Set of porch awning lights 6 Table mats 6 Dinner plates 6 Side plates 6 Bowls 3 Pans 6 Mugs 6 Teaspoons 6 Forks 6 Knives 6 Tablespoons 6 Wine glasses 6 Tumblers 1 Jug 2 Chopping boards 3 Food containers 5 Piece kitchen utensil set Frying pan Small sharp knife Large knife Bread knife Colander Tin Opener Egg cups Corkscrew Peeler Pair of scissors 6 Camping chairs Water carrier Washing bowl Dustpan and brush Bin Clothes hanger 4 Hangers Torch Doormat All you need to bring is your bedding, linen & sense of adventure!

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Culzean Castle Campsite

Culzean Castle Campsite rests on the grounds of a beautiful Scottish Castle on the South Ayrshire coast. You can take a walk on the beach and enjoy the stunning views of the coastline and countryside. Spend lazy afternoons lounging on the dunes, peering into rock pools and exploring caves. The campsite offers 90 pitches for all camping units, with ample space to stretch out, access to excellent facilities and panoramic views from the Firth of Clyde to Arran and Ailsa Craig Islands. If you walk to the North of the site, you will reach the coastal town of Ayr, which has several restaurants, bars and shops. Anglers can visit the 24-acre Mochrum Loch near the site, brimming with various trout species, to enjoy fly-fishing.

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Other local campsites can be found in: Maybole , Carrick , North Carrick , Doonfoot , Alloway , Girvan Ailsa and Girvan Glendoune

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Other nearby campervan locations: Belmont , Kincaidston , Doon Valley , Ayr , Castlehill , Holmston , Forehill and Wallacetown

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Nearby towns and the campsites near them: Maidens , Turnberry , Maybole , Kirkmichael , Girvan , Ayr , Prestwick , and Troon

Other local campsites can be found in: Maybole , Carrick , North Carrick , Doonfoot , Alloway , Girvan Ailsa , and Girvan Glendoune

Other nearby campervan locations: Belmont , Kincaidston , Doon Valley , Ayr , Castlehill , Holmston , Forehill , and Wallacetown

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• Pets allowed
• Picnic table
• Cooking equipment
• Wildlife watching
• Off-roading (OHV)
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Culzean Castle Camping and caravanning site

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Our spacious, secure 90-pitch site welcomes all camping units and offers good facilities for campers including showers, toilets, washing up area and a children’s play area.

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Place of Interest

Culzean castle and country park culzean castle and country park.

With so much to see in Culzean Country Park, you could easily fill a whole day exploring the Adventure Cove, Deer Park and beach.

However with so many treasure filled rooms to see, you shouldn’t miss the inside of Culzean Castle.

Set on a dramatic clifftop, surrounded by woodland and a rugged coastline, it’s easy to see why this is one of the most popular visitor attractions in Scotland. 

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Places of Charm

Travel to underreported, beautiful places

Winter in Sakhalin, Russia's largest island

Sakhalin is the largest Russian island. It is larger than Ireland, yet, barely half a million people live on it, most of them in the capital, that lies at its southern tip.

I had wanted to visit this far-flung part of Russia for already quite some time and the opportunity just came up during winter time, which is sort of low season there, but, on the other hand, allowed me to discover a proper snowy wonderland where few tourists venture.

Right after my trip I published this article on CNN , where I compiled some of my impressions from my visit to the island, but I was left with the feeling that one single piece was not enough to describe this very interesting, off-the-beaten path destination as thoroughly as I would have wanted.

So, I decided to pen yet another post with some extra pictures and additional information that didn’t make it to the CNN article.

Visiting Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk

This was a quick, 3-day trip to Sakhalin.

Take away jet-lag recovery (Sakhalin is 10 hours ahead of Moscow, the city I was flying from) and the morning transfers and waiting time at the airport and I was left with something like 48 hours “effective” hours to explore the island.

So my visit was focused on Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk, the capital city. However, I could arrange a private tour: a half-day excursion along the Eastern coast of the island. And this was a great decision, the experience certainly did not disappoint me! (more on this further in this post).

How to get to Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk

Sakhalin is just 40km north of the island of Hokkaido and there is a ferry that travels between this northernmost Japanese island and Korsakov, a port in southern Sakhalin.

The most practical way to get to get to Sakhalin, though, is by air.

Although rather small, Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk has an international airport with regular connections to Japan, South Korea and China , in addition to Vladivostok, the capital of Russia’s Far East, on the mainland. For travellers coming from Europe, though, the easiest and cheapest way is, in most case, via Moscow.

There are daily direct flights between Moscow and Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk, operated by both Aeroflot and its subsidiary Rossiya , and it is possible to find very reasonably priced tickets if you fly off-season. For example, I could get a ticket for some €350 return, which is rather good for a 10-hour flight!

The airport is not far from the centre of Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk. There is little in the way of public transportation, but a taxi ordered through the Yandex.taxi (an app that I recommend downloading to everyone visiting Russia - it is also the local Uber partner) application should cost no more than 500 rubles (or around €7-8, less than $10).

If travelling in Winter, get some warm clothes, since it can be pretty cold! You have been warned!

By the way, the region of Sakhalin includes also the Kuril Islands (as this poster at Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk airport conveniently reminds us). This is definitely a destination I would consider for another trip, although foreigners need a special permit to be able to visit (the southern Kurils have been the object of a territorial dispute with Japan since the end of WW2).

Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk airport is far from grandiose. In fact, at the time of my visit, its old terminal was showing quite evident signs of ageing and decay. The good news are that a new terminal is already being built next to it following modern standards. It should be ready sometime in 2020.

(You can find more about commercial aviation and traveling by air in the Russian Far East in this article )

Things to do and things to see in Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk

One of the first sights one comes across when driving into Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk is the gleaming towers of the Cathedral of the Nativity.

This is, apparently, the largest Orthodox church in the Russian Far East and it was inaugurated as recently as 2016!

It is located on a hillside elevation on the eastern side of town, right next to two other attractions of the city: the WW2 museum and one of the access points (via lift) to the ski resort of Gorniy Vozdukh (“mountain air” in Russian).

The contrast between the traditional, rather majestic, religious architecture of the cathedral and the, also monumental, military museum next door, makes for quite a few impressive perspectives, particularly on a sunny morning, when the snow and the cupolas reflect the rays of the sun!

City Center and War Memorials

Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk is a city of wide, straight avenues forming a grid. The buildings are , for the most part, Soviet-style residential blocks, although not as tall or dense as those found in Moscow or other cities in the Western part of Russia. Scattered all over the place you can find also some more modern constructions, offices and commercial centres, I’d say of a rather uninspiring architectural style.

The dimensions of the city mean that most of downtown is walkable, though.

Pretty much all avenues are fitted with broad pedestrian sidewalks that allow for rather pleasant walks when the weather is sunny. The reticular pattern of the streets means that it is relatively easy to find your way around.

You can also extend the walk into Gagarin Park, the city’s main urban recreation area. It has quite an amusement park, a reservoir and its very own miniature railways.

Sakhalin Railway Museum

Talking about railways, next to the Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk’s railway station (there is one single rail line in Sakhalin, that runs along the whole length of the island) there is what looks like a rather interesting railway museum with several historical locomotives on display outdoors.

Unfortunately, I did not have time to step inside, but i could check some of the historical locomotives from the outside.

Sakhalin Regional Museum

This is yet another must-see place in Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk. Don’t be misled by the rather humble, unassuming name.

This is a small museum, granted. But it is a great place to get in a relatively short time, quite a comprehensive view of the natural and human history of the island of Sakhalin, with a special mention to the role of Sakhalin as a bone of contention between the Russian and Japanese empires (in fact, the Southern half of the island, including Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk, was under Japanese rule for several decades until the end of WW2)

To add interest to the museum, the building where it is housed is one of the few buildings left from the time of Japanese rule, as it is pretty obvious from the style if was built in.

A Japanese, WW2-era light tank

During WW2, Sakhalin went from being as far as it gets from the front (while the Soviet Union was fighting Germany in Europe) to becoming a front line in the last few weeks of the war, when the Soviets joined the fight against Japan.

Military history is very present all around the city. In addition to the dedicated WW2 museum, there are quite a few places where it is possible to see all sorts of vintage military hardware, from tanks and artillery to fighter jets, as you can see in these images.

And these are Soviet tanks, also from WW2

But the most gripping, solemn, of all the military-related points of interest in Sakhalin is the war memorial dedicated to those fallen in WW2, or “Great Patriotic War” as the Russians prefer to call it.

Skiing in Sakhalin

Another interesting and rather unique thing you can do in Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk is the opportunity to ski in a semi-urban setting..

The ski resort of Gorniy Vozdukh is located on a hill side overlooking the city and you can, actually, take the lift pretty much from the city centre, since the base access point is located next to the cathedral, as you can see in the photo below.

It is a small resort, but it has the views! Where else can you ski within sight of a city of half a million?

Despite there being plenty of snow (or perhaps because of this) when I visited, in early December, the slopes were not open to the public yet. Workers were rushing to get everything ready for the season’s opening.

Shopping in Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk

Although Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk is not exactly a great shopping destination, there is the one thing that you can’t miss: fish and seafood!

Sakhalin is a sort of seafood-lovers paradise (and in fact all over Russia, seafood from Sakhalin and the country’s Far East enjoys a well deserved reputation).

Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk fish market is, thus, another must for any visitor. Here you will find all sort of seafood: fresh, canned, dried…some of it, perfectly packed and ready to take with you to the plane.

Two of the most celebrated products: giant read crab and caviar. Each of these two products is available in multiple variations and permutations. There is also plenty of salmon of all sorts.

Here is the address of Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk main fish and seafood market:

Uspekh Market

Sakhalinskaya Ulitsa, 71

Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk 693005

A great find, and one that is not too expensive and easy to bring with back with you on the plane, are the small chunks of dried salmon and other types of fish (sold perfectly vacuum-packed), which make for delicious snacking!).

There are also plenty of street vendors offering frozen fish and seafood next to other sorts of (non-edible) merchandise. Since the air is so cold, no natural refrigeration is needed. People would just get it wrapped in any sort of paper or cardboard to take home!

Day Excursions from Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk

If you get the chance, do not hesitate to arrange some excursion out of the city to experience the unspoiled nature of this island!

To do so, I’d recommend contacting one of the local tour agencies, which will provide a guide an a car. Usually these run tours for groups (if you are travelling alone you may either join a group or you can arrange a private tour).

I booked my tour with Druzya Pokhodniki ( http://pohodniki.net ). A day excursion in a 4x4 vehicle cost around 10,000 rubles, although the fee per person is lower if you travel as part of a larger group. The manager, Ekaterina, is fluent in English and she may bring her lovely dog “Yasha” to the excursion too!

(btw, they also have a great and rather popular Instagram profile where you can get a feel of the excursions: @druzia_pohodniki)

The initial idea was to do a day trip to Cape Giant, a peculiar rock formation on the coast south-east of Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk, yet, due to the weather and road conditions in the area, we finally opted for another destination: Bukhta Tikhaya (“Quiet Bay”) some 50km north of Yuzhno, on the east coast of the island.

And “quiet” it was!

This is a secluded bay that, at the time of our visit, was covered in ice and snow. This rugged, frozen coast could well have been somewhere in Antarctica!

And no one on sight for miles and miles! It is quite amazing to think that this unspoilt nature is literally less than a hundred miles away from densely populated Japan and less than two hours away from hundreds of millions of potential visitors.

To get there you had to drive along the only road along the east coast of the island, with magnificent views of the mountain range that runs all along the centre of the island. Although Sakhalin is quite a narrow (some 40 miles at the narrowest point), it is very mountainous. The only roads run along the coasts and the area in the middle is just a pretty much impassable forested wilderness, covered in a velvety, thick powdery mantle, almost cotton-like.

We also stopped at a long open sandy beach, dunes and sand covered in snow, where amber is often found (and indeed we did find a crumb of amber!)

Along the way, nested on the side of small hill overlooking a small fishing hamlet, we stopped to see another of the vestiges of the Japanese era in Sakhalin: a ceremonial “torii” gate dedicated, back at the time when it was built, to the Emperor.

Its lonely presence, overlooking the ocean from the top of a hill, that you need to climb knee-deep snow, made it quite a sight!

And right after we visited the torii gate, we stopped again. But this time it was in order to get some provisions in the form of freshly caught giant crab.

Some local women from the fishermen’s village engage in fierce market competition here, selling freshly caught amazingly large red crabs to passers-by.

When you have selected the ones you want to take home, they pack them for you in some cardboard boxes. In this rudimentary packaging I managed to get two of them on the plane to Moscow for the long flight back…a tasty souvenir from Sakhalin!

Where to stay in Sakhalin

There are not many places to stay in Sakhalin. These are possibly the two nicest hotels, catering to an international clientele:

Mega Palace Hotel

https://megapalacehotel.ru

Pacific Plaza Hotel

http://www.sakhalinpacificplaza.ru

As the number of good quality hotels in Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk is somehow limited, a good alternative is to rent an apartment. With many new residential buildings being built at the moment in Yuzhno-Sakhalin, it is possible to find modern, furnished apartments for a good rate on Booking.com (as I did) or on other major hotel and apartment booking sites.

Where to eat in Sakhalin

It was a short visit but here are a couple of spots that I tried when in town:

Bambu Restaurant (inside Mega Palace Hotel)

Great for Asian food and local seafood specialities (more upmarket)

https://www.megapalacehotel.ru/services/restoran-bamboo/

International cuisine, but with a focus on Japanese food and sushi. Rather casual.

http://cafe-assorti.com

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Sakhalin: Your Essential Guide to Russia’s Enigmatic Eastern Island

• January 14, 2024

A Journey Through Giant Burdocks, Wild Bears, and the Echoes of Ancient Japanese Temples

From the most dreaded place of exile in the Russian Empire to a Japanese industrial base and one of the most attractive and inaccessible places for domestic tourism in Russia.

Table of Contents

An island that was Russian, then Japanese, and then Russian again

From the 17th to the mid-19th century, it was believed that Sakhalin was a peninsula. This misconception firmly established itself on the maps of the time, as navigators failed to circumnavigate the island. The proximity of Sakhalin’s southern tip to the mainland created a false impression of being impassable for ships. An additional complexity arose from the fact that the route taken by ships from the Russian Empire involved passing through a narrow strait, which Nevelskoy managed to navigate only in 1849.

For a long time, people did not believe Nevelskoy, but he insisted that he had discovered a route through the strait, for which he became something of a hero in Primorye. Monuments and plaques dedicated to him can be found in Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk, Vladivostok, and Khabarovsk. The H4H creative association created a graphic novel based on this story, which won a cultural initiatives contest and became part of the interior of the Khabarovsk Airport. By the way, the Sakhalin region is the only Russian entity entirely located on islands.

The remote and isolated location of the island during the Russian Empire was used as a natural barrier, and it became the site of penal colonies for hard labor prisoners. Its geographical position led to Sakhalin’s hard labor being regarded as particularly cruel.

During the period of the island’s development, Russian ships followed the Amur River and reached the island from the north, where the oldest port, Alexandrovsk, was founded. The Japanese attempted to develop the island from the south, entering through the Kuril Islands (part of the Sakhalin region) and Aniva Bay. For a long time, the Kurils were inhabited by the Ainu, representatives of a small indigenous people. The very word “Kurils” comes from the Ainu: “kuru” means “man.”

In the 17th century, Japan conducted its first expeditions towards the islands and began their development. Russia reached them later. The first mentions of the islands in Russian language date back to the late 17th century. For a long time, Russian, Dutch, Japanese, and Anglo-French navigators studied the islands, landed on them, and disputed their territorial ownership. However, only Russia and Japan managed to establish a foothold. To end the territorial disputes, the governments of the two countries signed an agreement under which the Kuril Islands went to Japan, and Sakhalin to Russia, which continued to develop the island mainly from the north. After the Russo-Japanese War of 1904-1905, which ended in Russia’s defeat, the southern part of Sakhalin became part of Japan as the Karafuto Prefecture.

Until the second half of the 20th century, the island was owned by Japan and was quite successful in developing its resources. A huge number of mines were opened, several cities and lighthouses were built. In particular, the current regional center, Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk, was the former Japanese city of Toyohara. The famous Aniva lighthouse, now considered a symbol of Sakhalin, was built by Japanese engineers. After Japan’s defeat in World War II, the island passed to the Soviet Union. Contrary to history, the main life of the island moved from the north to the south. Alexandrovsk, which was convenient to reach by water, lost to Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk with its infrastructure built by the Japanese, connections to neighboring cities, and airport. Interestingly, before leaving, the Japanese buried and hid the mining sites, and locals say that not all the old mines have been found yet, and they are sometimes stumbled upon during walks.

Because the island belonged to three different countries in just over a hundred years, it did not have time to develop any significant urban infrastructure. The cities lack outstanding architectural monuments and unique museums. However, some unusual Japanese architecture has remained. Meanwhile, Sakhalin compactly houses incredible natural attractions. Here, one can climb through forests and bamboo thickets to breathtakingly beautiful mountains as if outlined in graphite, and through a mountain pass reach the sea, into which clear mountain rivers flow with fish splashing in them.

The Ainu and Nivkh: Inhabitants of Sakhalin

For a long time, the island was mainly inhabited by the Ainu and Nivkh peoples. These ethnic groups are very different, making their coexistence as unusual as the neighboring of birch and bamboo on the slopes of Sakhalin’s mountains. Both are isolate peoples . However, the Ainu belong to the Australoid race, while the Nivkh are Mongoloids (the main population of Asian territories). It’s fascinating how representatives of different races have coexisted for ages on a small piece of land at the edge of the world.

There is no single version regarding the origin of the Ainu, leading to a multitude of theories — both scientific and conspiratorial. One theory suggests that the Ainu are the ancestors of the indigenous population of Australia, remaining in the north after continental migration. Some researchers write that the Ainu are the forebears of the Japanese. This theory is supported by the fact that before Japanese expansion, the Ainu mainly inhabited the Japanese island of Hokkaido. However, the Ainu suffered greatly from Japanese imperialism, and their culture and language were almost completely destroyed in the 19th and early 20th centuries. Now, there are just over two thousand Ainu living on Sakhalin.

The Nivkh are among the indigenous small-numbered peoples of the north. They suffered less from Japanese rule. However, during the Soviet era, they experienced a difficult phase of literacy development, destruction of tribal communities, and relocation to cities. About 2,200 Nivkh live in the Sakhalin region and another approximately two thousand in Khabarovsk.

During the Karafuto period, Japan brought captured Koreans to Sakhalin for hard labor. By the mid-20th century, the Korean population of the island was about 45,000 people. For comparison, the current population of Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk is 180,000. This large number of people, deprived of their homeland, was forced to adapt to life first under Japanese and then Soviet rule. In the USSR, Koreans were issued passports, and there were national kindergartens and schools. However, Sakhalin Koreans did not feel part of the larger community of Soviet Koreans (Koryo-saram) and struggled to integrate. Moreover, they were considered members of an ‘unreliable nation’ because they had lived in the Japanese Empire.

In the late 1990s, three countries – Russia, South Korea, and Japan – began a repatriation campaign for the first generation of Sakhalin Koreans (born before August 15, 1945) to their historical homeland. Now, about 3,500 repatriates from Russia live in South Korea. Under the program, the Korean government provides medical insurance and a monthly allowance to the repatriates. The Japanese government, in turn, buys housing (apartments up to 40 m²) and covers transportation costs. Additionally, every two years, Sakhalin Koreans who have moved to their homeland have the right to visit Sakhalin for free, funded by the Japanese government. Most Sakhalin Koreans settled in the city of Ansan , where 500 apartments were specially built for them.

Korean influence is weakly traced on Sakhalin: many Sakhalin Koreans no longer know the language and do not associate themselves with Korea. However, there are several authentic restaurants (for example, “Koba” ) on the island where you can try traditional dishes.

Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk — the capital and base for exploring the island

The city is predominantly characterized by typical Soviet architecture, with almost no remaining Japanese buildings. This is because during the Soviet period, the city was radically rebuilt after being liberated from ‘imperialist Japanese rule.’ Many buildings were demolished, and from the few that remained, some were turned into museums. Perhaps the main thing that has been preserved from the Japanese period is the layout. The city was founded from scratch near the Russian village of Vladimirovka, and Chicago was chosen as the model for its layout. Toyohara was divided into four parts by two main streets, O-dori (now Lenin) and Maoka-dori (Sakhalinskaya).

Japan established itself thoroughly on the island. In Toyohara, trade routes converged, new bays were developed, and roads were built. The city’s population grew steadily. Initially due to the military garrison, and later due to a paper mill, a sugar and distillery plant. Now, the buildings of the former Japanese factories are abandoned. Many of them can only be accessed with rare tours, while others are completely closed. However, their presence is still recalled by street names, such as Paper Street.

Another building in the Neo-Japanese style is the Karafuto Governorate Museum built in the 1930s (29 Communist Avenue). It now houses the Sakhalin Regional Museum . And in the former bank of colonial development, there is the Art Museum (137 Lenin Street).

Several other iconic buildings constructed by the Japanese have been preserved: the central hospital of Toyohara (41 Chekhov Street), the conference hall of the Karafuto Governorate (30 Dzerzhinsky Street), and the Toyohara City Hall (41 Communist Avenue). The Sakhalin Railway Museum in Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk is distinct from many similar museums in Russia due to its exhibits. This is because the island long maintained the Japanese standard of railway gauge, which differs from the Russian standard. Accordingly, the rolling stock was entirely different.

If in Vladivostok everything is named after the Far Eastern explorer and writer Vladimir Arsenyev, then in Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk, mentions of Chekhov are everywhere. At the end of the 19th century, Sakhalin was both the most dreaded place for exile to hard labor and one of the most tempting corners of Russia, which was not so easy to access. Chekhov received an editorial assignment and embarked on a ship along with prisoners, military personnel, and sailors to the most remote point of the empire. In his notes, which Chekhov compiled under the title ‘The Island of Sakhalin,’ the writer talked about many things: the geography and climate of the island, the life of the convicts, and ordinary residents. This book caused a great resonance at the time, and even now it was very interesting to read it while traveling to Sakhalin: some things have changed drastically, while others have remained the same. Now in Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk, there is even a museum dedicated to this one book, which turned out to be so significant for the island.

GoSakhalin is the website of the Sakhalin Tourist and Information Center. And in their official Telegram channel , you can find announcements of affordable excursions shortly before they start.

In any case, for travelers, Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk remains primarily a hub and a place of rest. Here they return for the night and dinner, and it seems that real adventures begin outside the doorstep.

Surrounding Area

10–20 kilometers from Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk

The main reason people visit Sakhalin is for its unique nature. Mountains, forests, rivers, lakes, and the sea, all on a small piece of land. In one day, you can travel from the Sea of Okhotsk to the Sea of Japan, cross several climate zones, see bamboo groves, birches, and spruces in one place, spot a running fox and a swimming orca. The island’s landscapes can boldly compete in Instagram appeal with Iceland or Norway.

Within Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk alone, there are about 30 kilometers of marked ecotrails, with brief descriptions and routes available on the official tourism portal. I also found an ecotrail in Nevelsk, which is not mentioned on the official website.

The ecotrails in Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk start from the ‘Mountain Air’ ski center on the sopka (a term for mountains in the Far East) Bolshevik. There are five in total: ‘Children’s’ (2.7 kilometers), ‘Eight’ (8 kilometers), ‘Northern Ring’ (9 kilometers), ‘Russian’ (3.2 kilometers), and ‘Yelanka’ (5 kilometers). You can take a cable car to the start of the trails and then slowly descend through the forest and park to the city. However, the lift does not operate in rainy and windy weather.

Hiking the ‘Eight’ trail took me no more than three hours, including stops to catch my breath and take photos. Every kilometer and a half along the route, there are benches. From the top of the mountain, there is a view of Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk, and it seems you can see a piece of the Sea of Okhotsk.

Chekhov Peak

The route to Chekhov Peak is a high-mountain trekking path that requires a certain level of physical fitness. Chekhov Peak has an elevation of 1045 meters, with an absolute altitude gain of 752 meters. The trail is narrow and slippery in places, hardly suitable for children or people with limited mobility.

Chekhov Peak is part of the Susunai Range, which supports Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk from the southeast. You can exit from Gagarin city park to the foothills in about half an hour. The ascent to the peak itself cannot be missed: a marked trail and informational signs lead to it. On particularly steep ascents, ropes are hung for safety, but it is possible to walk up the slope without them.

In late spring, the forest trail has many streams, as well as May primroses and butterflies. The foothills are scattered with rare, incredibly large, and wonderfully fragrant marsh callas. Halfway to the peak, bamboo thickets are encountered, through which birches break through. This is also a kind of magic because, as a biologist friend explained to me, birch and bamboo are not supposed to coexist in the natural environment, but somehow they manage to do so. Occasionally, spruces are encountered — not tall, but very fluffy. Closer to the top, the vegetation becomes sparser, and the impressive views of the sea, mountains, and lakes open up from the height.

• The entire hike takes five to six hours.
• Even in summer, there is snow on the summit. In the afternoon, it starts to melt, making it more difficult to walk.
• Don’t forget to bring food and water.
• Wear boots with covered ankles, a jacket, and a head covering.
• Inform your family and friends, and someone living in Sakhalin, before setting out on the route. If you’re traveling alone, you could notify, for example, the hotel receptionist or roommates in a hostel.
• Snakes and bears are found around the trail. Watch your feet and try to make as much noise as possible. For example, play music on your phone and sing along occasionally.
• The ascent to Chekhov Peak can be the start of a journey to the village of Lesnoye on the shore of the Sea of Okhotsk. The distance to the village is 27 kilometers. With good preparation and an early start from Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk, this distance can be covered in one day.

Mud Volcano in Klyuchi

A mud volcano is an eruption on the earth’s surface of clay masses, mineralized waters, and gases. The mechanism of formation of these volcanoes is not fully understood. According to the existing theory, such volcanoes are formed near oil fields.

The mud volcano in Klyuchi consists of a mud field about 200 meters in diameter. There, you can see about 20 points of activity, resembling miniature volcano craters. This mud volcano became active in 1959, 1979, 2001, and 2011 (the last time due to a strong earthquake in Japan). During these eruptions, mud columns reached several tens of meters in height. Bus 189 goes to Klyuchi from Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk. The distance from the village to the top of the volcano is nine kilometers and takes about two and a half hours to walk.

Ecopark in the Vestochka area: Frog Rock, Aikhor Waterfall, ‘Sunny Glade’ Recreation Park

Not far from Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk, there is a fairly large ecopark, known primarily for the Frog Rock outcrop. An outcrop is a remnant of harder rock around which softer rock has eroded over time. Outcrops are often known for their unusual shapes and are natural monuments. Frog Rock is part of a series of rocks standing one behind the other. This was once the seabed of an ancient sea, and fossilized shells can be found in its vicinity. From the top of the rock, amazing views of the Aniva Bay, Tunaycha and Changeable Lakes open up. This place was sacred to the Ainu, the indigenous inhabitants of the island.

The trail to the ‘Sunny Glade’ ecopark begins behind the ‘Electron’ culture house. Despite its name, it is not a city park, but a full-fledged forest with laid-out paths. There are houses, glades with tables for rest where you can cook barbecues, and wooden walkways leading to various attractions. These are all paid services.

The path to Frog Rock outcrop goes along the Komissarovka River. In areas of spring flooding, callas bloom and bamboo grows. The outcrop is located on a hill, with a total elevation gain of about 300 meters. The road is quite challenging, usually taking from an hour to an hour and a half. The higher you climb, the more you can see: the sea, the mountain gorge, the road to Vestochka. In the same park is the Aikhor Waterfall, which is also a short climb away, but along a less well-maintained trail. You can plan a whole day to visit Vestochka and even spend the night, without returning to Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk.

Vestochka is three high-rise buildings on one side of the road and a cottage settlement on the other. It is part of Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk, though located 15 kilometers from the main part of the city. A taxi there costs about 1000 rubles and takes 40 minutes. About a kilometer after turning off the main road, the asphalt ends and a terribly dusty dirt road begins. If you’re lucky, you can catch a bus that runs three times a day.

What else to see on the island

40 kilometers from Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk

The oldest city in the south of Sakhalin, founded by Nevelskoy’s expedition. Here you can find a huge number of monuments dedicated to sailors, naval battles, and ships. The most significant monument in the city in recent decades has become the stele dedicated to ‘Koreans interned by the Japanese in Sakhalin, who never returned to their homeland,’ located on Mount Sorrow, created through the efforts of three countries’ governments (Russia, Japan, and Korea).

In Korsakov, some Japanese heritage has been preserved: the former building of the Hokkaido Takushoku Bank, a colonial development bank (Sovetskaya Street, 3), trade warehouses in the port, a document storage facility ‘Bunsyoko’ (Krasnoflotskaya Street, 1), a couple of rusty fire hydrants, and remnants of Shinto temples in the form of pillars with hieroglyphs. One of the local nighttime entertainments is watching the lights of the gas processing plant.

How to get there. Three electric trains a day, the journey takes just over an hour, and the ticket costs 75 rubles (0.75 euros).

Bird and Giant Capes

90 kilometers from Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk

Two capes, recognized as natural monuments in 1990, along whose coasts are many wind and wave-carved grottoes, caves, arches, and columns of various sizes and whimsical shapes, among which colonies of sea birds reside.

The place is not very close, but it’s very picturesque at any time of the year. In the area of one of the rocks, there is a pool where, during the salmon spawning period, you can observe a fascinating spectacle — a huge gathering of pink salmon.

Many tourists stay on the coast overnight to witness the sunset and sunrise. Near Cape Giant, there is a toilet, parking, and a rest area with benches.

How to get there. The journey from Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk goes through the village of Okhotskoe, where you can buy fresh crabs, and takes about three hours one way. The road is fully passable only by high vehicles like Mitsubishi Pajero, Suzuki Jimny, as the last ten kilometers of the route have deep puddles, potholes, small cliffs, and rivers.

Nevelsk and Steller Sea Lions

Nevelsk is nestled between mountains and sea. The rocky mountains and the coast, which consists of small stone needles and shells, in every way explain why Chekhov so often mentioned in ‘The Island of Sakhalin’ how harsh the land of Sakhalin is.

Steller sea lions are the largest of the eared seals. One of their habitats is the breakwater in Nevelsk. As soon as you arrive in the town, the smell from the Steller sea lions’ haul-out site hits you. ‘They eat there, live, give birth to their young – that’s why it smells,’ the locals explain. Another feature is the noise. Steller sea lions are very loud!

You can view the sea lions from the central square, where binoculars are installed. However, tourists usually hire a boat and approach the haul-out site to get a closer look at the seals. You can see how the Steller sea lions bark, lie in the sun, jump into the sea and, most interestingly, try to jump back. The views from the square through binoculars are not as detailed and impressive. A place on the boat will cost 1000–1500 rubles (10.00 – (15.00 euros). You can also buy a tour from Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk for 3500 rubles (35.00 euros). The most animals are present in spring and early summer. In autumn, there may be a couple of dozen individuals left.

From the embankment, you can observe the huge kelp laminaria floating in the sea. Some travelers catch them themselves and eat them. Although dishes made from seaweed are found in cafes and also sold in stores. Signs are installed on the shore indicating where to run in case of a tsunami. The last major earthquake with waves was recorded in 2007. Many houses were destroyed and two people died. The most famous Sakhalin tsunami was the 1952 tragedy , when the aftermath of the earthquake almost completely destroyed Severo-Kurilsk.

How to get there. From the bus station (Karl Marx Street, 51b) in Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk, buses go to Nevelsk, the ticket costs 300 rubles (3.00 euros), and the journey takes about an hour. Tickets can be purchased at the bus station ticket office or from the driver (cash or transfer). It’s not possible to board the bus somewhere in the city, as the bus does not make stops. It’s better to buy a return ticket immediately upon arrival in Nevelsk at the Nevelsk bus station ticket office (Lenina Street, 1). The bus is popular with locals, and there may simply be no seats left.

Remnants of structures from the Karafuto period include the Maoka-Jinja temple with a Japanese-style garden and an abandoned railway built by the Japanese. It used to connect Kholmsk with Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk. Tourists usually come to see two photogenic bridges – Devil’s and Witch’s – and a tunnel in the mountain that makes a full circle inside it. The trail passes along the old rails, and there are many vipers, so one needs to watch their step.

How to get there. The bus to Kholmsk takes two hours, the ticket costs 450 rubles (4.50 euros), with 14 trips a day.

Slepikovsky Cape and Lighthouse

120 kilometers from Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk

At Slepikovsky Cape, there is the only relic grove of Korean cedar on Sakhalin. Also located here is the functioning Slepikovsky Lighthouse, which is a 27-meter tall round tower, connected by corridors to utility and residential buildings.

The cape and lighthouse are named after the commander of the Russian partisan detachment Bronislav Grotto-Slepikovsky, who operated in Southern Sakhalin during the 1904–1905 war. The route to the lighthouse goes through the villages of Yablochnoe and Sadovniki, where some of the best beaches on Sakhalin are located — with the cleanest water and white sand.

How to get there. The cape is located 29 kilometers north of Kholmsk. From Kholmsk to the turn towards the lighthouse, there is asphalt with dirt sections. From the turn to the lighthouse, there is first a dirt road, then beach sand, which is recommended to be driven on with deflated tires. Visiting time is from spring to autumn, as the road to the cape is not cleared in winter.

110 kilometers from Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk

In 1891, when the island had a penal colony, this was the Russian village of Siraroko, named after a nearby Ainu settlement. In 1905, the south of Sakhalin was given to the Japanese, and the village was renamed Higashi Shiraura. Here there were a railway station, a brick factory, and a coal mine. 40 years later, the settlement was renamed Vzmorye.

During the Japanese times, there was the Shinto shrine Higashi Shiraura Inari-Jinja. Only the torii gates remain — P-shaped gates without doors that are placed on the path to a Shinto shrine. These are the only torii on Sakhalin. On the torii, there is an inscription ‘In honor of the 2600th anniversary of the foundation of Great Japan’ — this mythological date was widely celebrated in 1940.

On the way to the torii, you can see the famous giant burdocks and bear’s garlic. Vzmorye is also known as a place where poached crabs are sold along the highway.

How to get there. Two electric trains and one train that start from Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk stop in Vzmorye. Unfortunately, all three are in the evening. You can also get there on passing buses that go to the north of the island.

Tikhaya Bay

140 kilometers from Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk

On one side, the bay is framed by Mount Smely, and on the other side, the majestic Zhdanko Ridge begins. To the left in the bay itself is an island-kekur, which can be reached during low tide, as well as the epic cliffs of Tikhaya Cape. By the way, behind this cape, there are waterfalls that become icefalls in winter. At the base of the bay is the mouth of the Tikhaya River, where during the season you can see the spawning of pink salmon and chum salmon. Bears are aware of this, so they are often encountered here.

How to get there. Buses going to Poronaysk stop in the village of Tikhoye, near which the bay is located. There are four trips a day.

Aniva Lighthouse

The lighthouse has a complex history: there were attempts to maintain it under Soviet rule, but Aniva was so remote from inhabited areas that it was not profitable. Eventually, the lighthouse was switched to autonomous mode, bringing in a radioactive isotope to sustain its operation, and then it was completely closed. To this day, you can find signs on the walls reading ‘Caution, radioactive’. But now this warning is outdated, as the radioactive isotope was removed when the lighthouse was decommissioned. The lighthouse is very beautiful, offering views of the island and sea, and inside you can explore the remnants of rooms and working areas.

On the return trip, tourists are also taken to Mramornaya Bay, where you can also climb a mountain and view the jagged coast of Sakhalin from above. Orcas and whales are often encountered in these areas, most frequently in summer. I would also recommend taking a combined tour in summer to Aniva Lighthouse, the Blue Lakes, and Busse Lagoon, where you can see the amazingly blue waters and try sea urchins.

A kilometer from Novikov is Cape Tri Kamnya (46.320342 143.373006), which can even be reached by car. Four kilometers from the cape is the small Strelka waterfall , which requires a walk. If you stay in the village overnight, you can take a hike to the Blue (turquoise) Lakes (46.359603, 143.471909). On the way, there’s an abandoned Japanese power station. You can extend your route by another 15 kilometers and reach the opposite shore of the peninsula – to Cape Evstafiya. The road from Novikov to Cape Evstafyeva through the Blue Lakes can be driven in a jeep, if there hasn’t been prolonged rain before. But it’s better to ask in advance those who have recently been there, and get the phone number of a local tractor driver in Novikov, so that if something happens, he can pull you out.

How to get there. Getting there independently is almost impossible. The lighthouse is located on a rocky outcrop in the sea, and the nearest land is a high cliff. However, some people do reach Novikovo (the nearest village) by bus or car, and then walk 44 kilometers on foot to Aniva (the name of both the lighthouse and the bay). It takes about one and a half hours to drive from Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk to Novikovo. And then another two hours of rough dirt road to the boat dock. A tour from the company ‘Friends-Hikers’ costs 6000 rubles (60.00 euros) in May (in summer – 7000 rubles (70.00 euros)).

Klokovsky Waterfall

190 kilometers from Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk

Klokovsky Waterfall is one of the highest waterfalls on Sakhalin Island. Its height is variously reported to be 48–49 meters, with a width of up to nine meters. The waterfall is accessible year-round, but is most full in late spring and early summer.

Alexandrovsk-Sakhalinsky

The ‘Tri Brata’ (Three Brothers) rocks are definitely a symbol of Alexandrovsk-Sakhalinsky, and perhaps of the entire island. They are located in the Alexandrovsk Gulf almost opposite Cape Zhonkiyor. From the cape, there is a stunning view of the vast Tatar Strait and the Three Brothers. At low tide, it’s possible to calmly explore all the attractions of the gulf, collect seaweed and shells, see hermit crabs scuttling along the seabed with their shells on their backs, or watch the leaves of laminaria sway. At the strongest low tide, you can even walk to the Three Brothers through the water.

In the 19th century, convicts carved a 90-meter tunnel through Cape Zhonkiyor to service the lighthouse. To reach the tunnel by land, you need to come at low tide. Otherwise, you’ll have to climb the rocks. The tunnel is lined with logs, but there is almost always water at the bottom and a strong wind howls through it. If you pass through the tunnel, you will see the ‘Tri Sestry’ (Three Sisters) rocks and an old lighthouse from the end of the 19th century. All these places are described by Chekhov in ‘The Island of Sakhalin’: ‘Most often we went to the lighthouse, which stands high above the valley, on Cape Zhonkiyor. During the day, the lighthouse, if looked at from below, is a modest white house with a mast and lantern, but at night it shines brightly in the darkness, and then it seems that the penal colony looks at the world with its red eye. The road to the house climbs steeply, winding around the mountain, past old larches and firs. The higher you climb, the freer you breathe; the sea spreads before your eyes, thoughts gradually come, having nothing to do with the prison, the penal colony, or the exile settlement, and only then do you realize how dull and difficult life is down below.’

How to get there. From Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk, there is one bus trip per day – at 12:10. The ticket costs 2200 rubles (22.00 euros), and the journey takes nine hours.

600 kilometers from Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk

The main transit point on the way to the oil refineries. The village might be of interest to those curious to see a harsh northern town living off production: low-rise buildings made of siding and unexpectedly bright murals on the walls of five-story buildings. There is a local history museum in the village (Sovetskaya Street, 3) – it is praised for its excellent exhibition of the Nivkh culture and a monument to Nevelskoy. Also, one of the longest rivers of Sakhalin, the Tym (which translates from Nivkh as ‘spawning river’), flows through the town.

How to get there. A night train goes to Nogliki every day, taking almost 12 hours. The cheapest ticket in a seated carriage costs 1100 rubles (11.00 euros), a compartment – 4100 (41.00 euros). There is even a luxury (SV) carriage for 12600 rubles (126.00 euros).

Where to Stay

Hostels in the Far East are divided into work and tourist types. The former will also accommodate tourists, but the atmosphere there is like a dormitory where their own rules are already established, and you may feel like an uninvited guest. To avoid such a hostel, it’s important to carefully read the reviews, not book the cheapest hostels, not stay on the outskirts or near airports and train stations.

In the Islander hostel , mainly travelers stay, it’s very cozy, with convenient kitchen and showers with toilets. A double room costs 3000 rubles per day, and dorms – from 900 rubles (9.00 euros) per night. If you book directly through the website and for a long term, you can get a good discount.

The ‘Moneron’ hotel is located near the railway and bus stations. It’s a classic budget hotel with small clean rooms. The ‘comfort’ class rooms have a bath, and the hotel provides a complete set with slippers, towels, and a hairdryer. Prices start from 2800 rubles (28.00 euros) per night for a single economy room, while ‘comfort’ costs 4900 rubles (49.00 euros). Breakfast is included in the price.

The ‘Belka’ hotel building is made using Finnish technology in a wooden style from milled timber. The cost of large rooms with wooden walls and huge beds starts from 5800 rubles (58.00 euros). Breakfast is also included in the price. The hotel complex includes a sauna, spa, tavern, and gym.

Near Bussé Bay is the island’s only dome-shaped glamping site. A night for two costs 8000-10,000 rubles (80.00 – 100.00 euros). An extra bed is 2000 (20.00 euros). Each dome has a shower, toilet, and electricity. On cooler days, you can light the stove and sit by the fire with a cup of hot cocoa.

In other towns, apart from Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk, the choice of hotels is quite modest and usually limited to one or two hotels, which cannot always be booked online. They have to be found on the map and booked by phone.

Transport on the Island

Car. If you’re only traveling between cities, there won’t be any problems – the roads between them are mostly paved, and the dirt roads are of more or less good quality. It gets more complicated with natural attractions. Almost all of them are accessed by dirt roads, which not every car can navigate.

In Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk, ‘Yandex.Taxi’ and ‘Maxim’ operate (also in Korsakov and Kholmsk). A trip within the city limits will cost a maximum of 300 rubles (3.00 euros).

Railway. From Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk, about 30 electric trains depart daily. Most of them go to nearby areas like Dalnyaya, Khristoforovka, and Novoaleksandrovka stations – 8–23 minutes travel time.

To other cities, there’s only one electric train per day. It takes an hour to Korsakov and the ticket costs 80 rubles (0.80 euro). To Tomari, it’s four hours and 300 rubles (3.00 euros). To Poronaysk, it’s five hours of travel and 500 rubles (5.00 euros) for a ticket. Long-distance electric trains depart in the evening, as these routes are used by residents of the province who return from work in Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk to their homes.

There is also one train on the island – Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk to Nogliki, 12 hours of travel and 1100 rubles (11.00 euros) for a ticket in a sitting carriage.

Buses. It seems you can reach even the most remote settlements by bus. Often there’s only one trip per day, but at least it exists. To Kholmsk, Nevelsk, and Korsakov, the journey takes about an hour and a half, with tickets costing around 300 rubles (3.00 euros); to Poronaysk and Uglegorsk, it’s four to five hours and 1200 rubles (12.00 euros) for a ticket. You can check the current schedule on avtovokzaly.ru . But it’s always better to double-check by phone: +7 (4242) 72-25-53. The address of the bus station is Karl Marx Street, 51b.

Airplane. Sakhalin has a quite extensive network of airports, and you can fly from Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk to Okha, Zonalnoye, Shakhtyorsk, Poronaysk, Smirnykh, Yuzhno-Kurilsk, and Iturup. Flights are operated by the Far Eastern airlines ‘Aurora’ and ‘Taiga’ . These routes are served by small propeller planes Bombardier and Mi-8 helicopters. Such a flight is an interesting experience in itself. Moreover, some flights are quite inexpensive. For example, to Zonalnoye, Shakhtyorsk, and Poronaysk, tickets cost 2000–3000 rubles (20.00 – 30.00 euros) one way. To Okha and the Kurils – from 6000 rubles (60.00 euros).

Ferry. From Korsakov, ferries run to different settlements in the Kurils every three to four days. The ferry to Kurilsk takes about 22 hours, to Yuzhno-Kurilsk – 22–30 hours, and to Malokurilskoye – about 40 hours. Interestingly, a ticket to any of these settlements costs from 2800 rubles (28.00 euros), available on the website of the ferry company.

How to get there

By plain. To travel to Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk from Europe, passengers typically fly through major transit hubs. Common routes involve flying from a European city to one of the major Russian airports offering direct flights to Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk, such as Moscow’s Sheremetyevo or Domodedovo airports. In 2023 it is only possible to fly to Moscow from major transit hubs such as Istanbul or Erevan. From there, travelers can catch one of the direct flights to the island. Some routes might also include stops or transfers in other large cities in Russia or Asia, depending on the airline and the flight itinerary, for instance, Novosibirsk, Krasnoyarsk, Irkutsk, Ulan-Ude, Chita, Blagoveshchensk, Vladivostok, Khabarovsk, Komsomolsk-on-Amur, Sovetskaya Gavan, and Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky. There is even one international flight from Harbin, China.

In good weather, on approach to Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk, you can see the Tatar Strait, the Western Ridge, and the city itself. The airport is located within the city limits, and from there, you can easily reach any point by public transport (buses 63 and 3) or taxi.

Ferry. Vanino (Khabarovsk Krai) to Kholmsk (Sakhalin) . Passenger tickets for the ferry are sold at the Vanino railway station or at the ticket office in Kholmsk (Lenin Square, 5). They can also be reserved by phone: +7 (42137) 74088 (Vanino), +7 (42433) 50880 (Kholmsk). The ferries run daily, with a journey time of 18–20 hours. A seat costs 650 rubles (6.50 euros), while the cheapest cabin spot is 1400 rubles (14.00 euros). There is a dining room on board.

I was on the island in early May, and this has its pros and cons. On one hand, it’s already not very cold in Sakhalin at this time, and you can walk around in a light jacket or sweatshirt, and sometimes even just in a T-shirt. At the end of spring, you can catch the largest number of Steller sea lions in Nevelsk (closer to summer they migrate towards Avacha Bay). Also at this time, you can see the forest awakening: streams penetrate it from all sides, in their floodplains swamp callas bloom, meadows fill with primroses, and the hills are covered with bright green bamboo shoots. On the other hand, there is still snow in the mountains, in which you can get stuck while climbing, and the sea, which is not very warm in these areas, is completely unsuitable for swimming.

In summer, Sakhalin is not very hot, the coast blooms with wild roses, the sea warms up a bit, and there is less chance of bad weather when visiting remote attractions. Also, it’s precisely at this time you can see orcas (June – July) and whales (July – August), as well as the salmon spawning.

In winter, snowboarders and skiers come to Sakhalin. The mountains on the island are not high, so they are suitable even for beginners.

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