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An insider's guide to Lagos, Nigeria: a gritty city coming into its own

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Note: Between the time this article was written and the time it appeared in Condé Nast Traveller magazine, protests broke out in the city of Lagos against police brutality in October 2020, specifically against the Special Anti-Robbery Squad (SARS), during which 12 people were killed. A judicial panel began investigating exactly what happened in the same month and will continue to sit for six months. Rather than avoid publishing this piece during that time, we want to continue to share and support the Lagos we know and are excited by. For a note from Noo Saro-Wiwa on recent events, see the end of the piece.

Listen to this article as a podcast read by the author, on iTunes , Spotify or Android here.

Switching from the slumber of Middle England to the sensory explosion that is Lagos was a transition I had to make during childhood summers. Life in Surrey was punctuated by returns to Nigeria where I was born, enforced by parents who were hell-bent on neutralising my Britishness. Reaching our hometown of Port Harcourt involved stopping over at relatives’ houses in Lagos, and even at that young age the big-city charge of the then-capital – its noise and swagger – was magnetic, repellent and always unforgettable.

The last time I took an extended trip here was in 2007, at the beginning of a four-and-a-half-month odyssey around the country for my book, Looking for Transwonderland: Travels in Nigeria . There was an organised chaos to it. I was intimidated by the density and impatience of the crowds and the kamikaze okada – motorcycle taxis – that flew at me from every direction. It was a steam pot of vehicle fumes and go-slow traffic jams which vendors weaved through, selling anything from squash rackets to books titled How to Get Fat , while self-styled preachers on the distinctive yellow danfo minibuses laid seven shades of Jesus on their fellow passengers. An urban jungle with the Darwinian survival ethos of Texas and the infrastructure of Kinshasa, where islands of staggering wealth existed without shame in a lake of poverty. If the state were a person, she would wear a Gucci jacket and a cheap hair weave, cruising in her Porsche over rain-flooded potholes. In a nation where the middle class had atrophied and the rich got rich very quickly, the poor were not irrational for believing that prosperity was within their reach. Nearly everyone had a side hustle, with even university lecturers supplementing their income by hawking Chinese cure-all teas on public transport. Rawness abounded.

A while later, I was preparing to fly back to the metropolis and found myself walking past Vogue writer Suzy Menkes in the airport. ‘Is this the departure gate for Lagos?’ she asked me. Twenty years ago I might have assumed she meant Lagos in Portugal . Why would the grande dame of British fashion journalism be visiting African Lagos, whose notoriety strikes fear into the hearts of delicate First World travellers? It turned out Menkes was heading to Lagos Fashion Week, her presence proof that society is opening its eyes to Nigeria’s largest city as a hub of design, art, industry and finance. But while its appeal is often overshadowed by infamy, it had been shining at the centre of its own universe long before the west began to take notice.

Recently, I returned to a Lagos that is better governed and more sedate in certain areas, a place with a vision of itself and where it wants to be. In prosperous neighbourhoods such as Victoria Island and Ikoyi, the okada have gone, replaced by keke – motorised tricycles – while the notorious yellow taxis now compete with Uber. One driver I encountered, Marcel, held a white-collar job at Guinness until he was laid off when the currency plummeted. Today, he uses his car to pay his bills and, compared to some yellow-taxi operators, he is intensely agreeable: the side hustle has been digitised, and the passenger-driver screaming matches of old are diplomatically muted now that both parties have app ratings to protect.

Marcel, like many Lagosians, isn’t originally from here. Nigerians from all corners are sucked into the force field of a city which, if an independent country, would have the fifth-largest economy in Africa . Forty per cent of its residents are rumoured to be Igbo from the east – ironic considering it was the Igbos’ attempt at secession that sparked the Biafran civil war of the late 1960s. My parents fled from that very conflict and settled in Lagos for a few years. Since then, it has grown to accommodate people from all of Nigeria’s 200-plus ethnic groups who live in a phenomenal harmoniousness that is under-appreciated by the world. ‘Lagos is Nigeria,’ one resident tells me.

Aesthetically, it wins no prizes. There are flashes of beauty in the university campus or the Third Mainland Bridge that snakes along the blue lagoon and sparkles in the twilight, but the panorama of Seventies and Eighties oil-boom buildings is as grey as the tropical thunderclouds, and the pavements are cleaved by open ditches. This is no place for the placid flanêur. Lagos’s charm is concealed in its interiors, such as Alára, a gorgeous boutique by David Adjaye, the architect behind Washington , DC’s National Museum of African American History and Culture. It may be set opposite a decrepit property in Victoria Island, but stepping inside I was dazzled by the imposing central staircase backed by huge windows with light pouring on leather goods and YSL clothes. ‘The city’s an experiential space,’ says Alára’s manager Hunderson, a shaven-headed Haitian New Yorker who has lived in Lagos since 2018. ‘It pulled me in. I didn’t have a choice. When I first visited 10 years ago, I thought, “Oh my god, I can’t go back!” The energy, the starkness... It’s a blank canvas with about 21 million inhabitants. You can’t be lazy. That’s what drives me. Look at the fashion industry, the film industry – and everyone has a law degree. What is it with these people and law degrees?’ he laughs.

October and November are the months to be in Lagos. The rains have ceased and the hotels teem with the local style set; Aké Arts and Book Festival draws the best writers from the continent and its diaspora, including Booker Prize winner Bernardine Evaristo and sci-fi talent Nnedi Okorafor. By night, the lagoon glows with open-air waterside bars and restaurants. And music is everywhere, the beats and electronic melismatic vocals of acts such as Burna Boy, who performed at Coachella last year, thumping from speakers. It can exhilarate or irritate, depending on your tastes.

I grab some respite at the Jazzhole bookstore, a long-time fixture on Awolowo Road in Ikoyi, an affluent central district where British expats built homes in the 20th century. Here I sip coffee and scan the shelves while ‘Rhythm of Love’ by Seventies Nigerian funk band Blo plays in the background. Owner Kunle Tejuoso tells me his mother, Gbemi, used to run the family’s other, now-defunct bookshop, Glendora, on the same street. My father would hang out there back in the day, perusing paperbacks and gisting (chatting) with Mrs Tejuoso. In a place where silence is a rarity, Jazzhole is still a good spot to meet new people and hold deep conversations. ‘This is not a city of the mind,’ one customer laments. It’s true that designated intellectual spaces and events are thin on the ground, but sit in cafés and food joints and you’ll overhear movers and shakers discussing the paucity of accurate cancer diagnostic equipment, or how low-cost housing subsidies end up benefiting the rich.

Here in the south-west, education levels are typically higher on average than in the rest of the country. One can see it in the home-grown tech companies of the Yaba neighbourhood, or Andela, a firm that aims to fix the global shortage of software developers. It makes the city’s car-registration-plate motto, Centre of Excellence, look a lot less sarcastic these days. Lagos is Nigerian ambition made manifest, yet its predominant poverty is impossible to sidestep. To be an educated, cosmopolitan Lagosian is to be the world’s consummate urbanite, because he or she experiences the full spectrum of the human condition. It keeps the empathetic ones grounded and inspired.

‘We have so much raw material,’ says Tayo Ogunbiyi as we tuck into obokun, or saltwater catfish, at Switch 1922 Lounge in the Lekki district. She is the artistic director of Art X Lagos, West Africa’s first international art fair. Philadelphia-raised and Princeton-educated, Ogunbiyi now lives here and helps to showcase exciting contemporary works from the continent and its diaspora. She says she needs the friction of the ‘real’ Lagos to fuel her own creative works and remind her of what matters.

I agree. Victoria Island and Ikoyi may be packed with creature comforts – such as scoffing shrimp beside the pool at Moist Beach Club – but after kicking about among the suburban malls and nouveau-riche mansions hoisted by neoclassical columns, I’m craving the true urban no matter how gritty.

Onikan is a palate cleanser in that respect. Once the main downtown area, this district on Lagos Island has faded in looks and status yet still possesses the organic soul of the city. I like the worn apartment blocks with their exposed laundry lines, and the echoey acoustics of the cheek-by-jowl architecture. There’s nearby Freedom Park, formerly Her Majesty’s Broad Street Prison, with its pitted, late-Victorian walls within which public debates and concerts are held. On Bamgbose Street, a stretch filled with colourful multistorey houses, market stalls sell fruit and live chickens. Towards one end stands the Doherty Villa, one of the few remaining edifices built by the freed Brazilian slaves who settled here in the 19th century.

Over at dimly lit, old-school Ghana High Restaurant, office workers line up for typical Nigerian plates such as garri , a pounded cassava paste that is dipped into spicy soups made from groundnuts, leafy vegetables and okra. Hunks of grilled chicken and beef with jollof rice – a paella-style dish made from tomato stew, chilli and peppers – are served by a broad and imperious ‘madam’ who doesn’t bother with smiley customer service – her food is better than sex and she knows it.

Outside Tafawa Balewa Square, the cast-iron gates are topped by statues of eagles and giant white horses rearing towards the sky. There’s a whiff of Mussolini in the design, but it is cancelled out by the vibrant umbrellas of the vendors below – vernacular street scenes that blend with the grandeur to unintentionally kitsch effect.

In Onikan I can see an opportunity for bottom-up regeneration. Hints of a brighter future are glimpsed in spots such as the Rele Gallery on Military Street, owned by Adenrele Sonariwo and displaying modern pieces by Nigerian artists including Victor Ehikhamenor. Down the road, in a park across from the national museum, architect Seun Oduwole is working on the JK Randle Centre for Yoruba Culture and History. The exhibition and event space will tell the story of the indigenous West African people. And at a rooftop apartment on Moloney Street, the hFactor creative community repurposes underused sites into innovative hubs, and hosts parties, clay-making and stone-carving workshops, film screenings and monthly kerbside pop-ups selling vintage clothing. Meanwhile, the Streetlights Collective puts on jam sessions to discover new musical talent.

But will regeneration happen in the full sense? Lagos has a habit of shaping new corners for the rich rather than improving existing areas for ordinary folk. Eko Atlantic City, an ambitious high-end development, is being built on land reclaimed from the ocean, while upscale Lekki lies on a peninsula, its new constructions gradually stretching – or one could say running – away from the metropolis. But global warming makes it prone to flooding. After the deluge of 2017 a crocodile washed up on the pavement, a reminder that here even the well off are never far from the edge of life. Ironically, those best prepared for climate change are the residents of Makoko, a shanty village of stilt houses and boats known as the Venice of Africa. Its problems – overcrowding, floods, ever-widening wealth gaps – are a microcosm of the planet’s problems. And in that sense Lagos is perhaps more forward-facing than we realise. It has done incredibly well to function without imploding, its people always finding ways to adapt, thrive and survive. The city is the past and the future, with the capacity to move in either direction. This piece is dedicated to all those who died during the #EndSARS movement in October 2020. Those young people, who joined the protests to demand dignity and freedom, are testament to Lagos's enduring spirit. May their energy and defiance live on. Noo Saro-Wiwa

THE LOWDOWN

Where to stay in lagos.

The Wheatbaker : The curious name was inspired by a Jamaican baker whose house once stood on this site; understated interiors include interesting paintings and photographs. Bogobiri House : Everything in this 16-bedroom hotel is a work of art – it also hosts live jazz and Afrobeats sessions. Radisson Blu Hotel : Part of the group, with a character all its own, drawing an arty, international crowd to the Ikeja district. Its outdoor pool has standout views.

WHERE TO SHOP IN LAGOS

Alára: Multi-level concept store selling clothes and furniture while its Nok restaurant serves palm-nut prawns with steamed plantain. alaralagos.com Jazzhole: Old-school music and eclectic fiction and non-fiction titles. The owner often tells stories about life in Lagos. instagram.com/jazzholelagos

WHERE TO EAT AND DRINK IN LAGOS

Ghana High Restaurant: An atmospheric and down-to-earth spot frequented by Lagosians. 34 Macarthy Street, Lagos Island ITAN Test Kitchen: Chef Michael Elégbèdé elevates Nigerian cooking with dishes such as goat shank in ayamase sauce. michaelelegbede.com Moist Beach Club: A favourite hangout for its pool bar, bold wall murals and people-watching. Order the shrimp tempura. moistbeach.com

WHERE TO VISIT IN LAGOS

Art X Lagos: The annual ‘Frieze of West Africa’ takes place in November (December in 2020), with a programme of local and international speakers. artxlagos.com Aké Arts and Book Festival: At this behemoth of the African literary scene, the continent’s top writers gather for readings and talks. akefestival.org

HOW TO GET TO LAGOS

British Airways has daily direct flights to Lagos from London Heathrow. britishairways.com

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Lagos Travel Guide

Many people don’t realize that Lagos, originally named Eko, was once a major port on the Atlantic slave trade route, and its history profoundly shapes the vibrant culture you see today. As a travel writer who’s visited numerous cities, I find Lagos uniquely compelling, not just for its historical depth but also for its modern vibrancy. From the bustling markets of Idumota to the serene beaches at Tarkwa Bay, the city offers a dynamic range of activities and sightseeing opportunities. But what truly sets Lagos apart? Well, that’s something I believe every traveler discovers in their own way. Let’s explore what might await you in this multifaceted city.

Key Takeaways

• Explore historical sites like Badagry Historic Town to learn about Lagos’s colonial and slave trade history.
• Enjoy beach activities at Tarkwa Bay and Elegushi Beach, popular among locals and tourists.
• Visit the National Museum to view artifacts that showcase Nigeria’s rich cultural heritage.
• Experience local cuisine , including Jollof rice and Suya, at various dining spots across the city.
• Utilize diverse transportation options like BRT, taxis, and ferries to navigate through Lagos efficiently.

Lagos, a bustling metropolis, serves as both a cultural powerhouse and a critical economic hub in southwestern Nigeria. It’s a city where cultural diversity thrives amidst rapid urban development. You’ll find an eclectic mix of traditional and contemporary elements, from the local cuisine that tantalizes with dishes like jollof rice and suya, to the vibrant music scene echoing afrobeats and highlife rhythms across bustling nightlife hotspots.

The city’s coastlines offer a plethora of beach activities, making places like Tarkwa Bay and Elegushi Beach popular spots for both locals and tourists seeking sun, sand, and sea. Meanwhile, the historical landmarks stand stoically, recounting tales of the past amidst modern skyscrapers. I’ve wandered through several street markets such as Balogun, where the air is thick with the scent of spices and the vibrant colors of fabrics and crafts dazzle the eyes.

Festivals and events are a core part of Lagos’ social fabric, with celebrations like the Eyo Festival showcasing a rich tableau of costumes and cultural dances. It’s a city that never sleeps, always buzzing with energy and offering an adventure at every corner. For nature lovers, the Lekki Conservation Centre offers a serene escape with its lush wildlife reserve, where you can spot exotic birds and playful monkeys.

Every experience in Lagos is a burst of freedom, from the rhythm of the streets to the waves on the shore, making it not just a destination , but a vibrant journey through life’s vivid spectacles.

While exploring the vibrant streets and diverse cultural expressions of this city, it’s equally important to understand the historical backdrop that shaped Lagos into the metropolis it’s today. Delving into its rich past, I’ve come to appreciate how the layers of history contribute to the city’s unique character.

Lagos’ story began with its establishment by the Awori subgroup of the Yoruba people. It later became a major port in the transatlantic slave trade, marking a painful chapter in its history. The influence of past rulers and traditional practices are still palpable in the city’s festivals and ceremonies that honor ancestors and celebrate liberation.

The colonial legacy of Lagos is complex. The British annexation in the 19th century introduced substantial colonial influences, which altered the city’s architectural landscape. Iconic buildings like the Freedom Park, once a colonial prison, serve as reminders of the struggles for independence that shaped modern Nigeria.

Post-independence, Lagos witnessed significant growth and transformation, becoming a melting pot of cultures and a hub for liberation movements across Africa. This period also saw a flourish in cultural heritage, as Lagosians reclaimed their identity and expressed it through art, music, and literature.

Exploring Lagos today, I’m moved by its historical resilience and the way it cherishes its heritage sites. To truly embrace this city, one should consider:

• Visiting the Heritage sites that narrate tales of yore.
• Exploring Architectural landmarks that mirror a confluence of cultures.
• Participating in Traditional practices that continue to thrive amidst modernity.

Understanding Lagos’ history isn’t just about knowing facts; it’s about connecting with the spirit of freedom that defines this city.

Nestled on the southwestern coast of Nigeria, Lagos serves as a vibrant nexus of commerce and culture, shaped profoundly by its geographical setting. The city’s layout reveals a fascinating blend of natural landscapes and urban development, with the Atlantic Ocean gracing its borders. This proximity to water not only defines its expansive transportation networks—highlighted by impressive bridges like the Carter and Third Mainland—but also underscores the city’s historical ties to maritime trade.

Exploring Lagos, I’m captivated by the seamless interplay of architectural styles, from colonial relics to modern skyscrapers, each narrating different epochs of its storied past. The city’s commitment to environmental conservation is evident in preserved areas within the bustling metropolis, offering breaths of fresh air amidst urban sprawl.

Cultural diversity thrives here, fostered by a melting pot of local communities. Each neighborhood boasts its own unique identity, contributing vibrant threads to the fabric of Lagos life. Historical sites peppered across the city, like the revered Oba’s Palace and the solemn Freedom Park, serve as monuments to its rich heritage. These landmarks aren’t just tourist attractions but symbols of freedom and resilience that resonate deeply with locals and visitors alike.

The geographic features of Lagos, from its lagoon to its swaying palm trees, aren’t merely backdrops but active participants in the daily lives of its people. They influence local customs , cuisines, and even the spontaneous gatherings that are so characteristic of Lagosian hospitality. Here, geography doesn’t just shape the physical space; it molds the very essence of Lagos itself.

As I explore the demographics of Lagos, it’s striking to observe its bustling population, which stands as one of the most densely populated cities in Africa. The city’s growth isn’t just a tale of numbers; it’s a vibrant narrative of urban expansion and demographic trends that shape the daily life here.

Lagos is a melting pot of cultural diversity, driven by migration patterns from all over Nigeria and beyond. This influx has contributed to a complex ethnic composition, where traditional Yoruba culture intertwines with influences from other Nigerian ethnic groups and international migrants. Such diversity not only enriches the cultural fabric but also propels the city into a dynamic urban center.

The city demographics reveal a stark rural-urban divide, fueling urban growth as more people move to Lagos in search of better opportunities. This migration has significant implications for city planning and services, as the need for sustainable urban expansion becomes more urgent. Population dynamics in Lagos are therefore a critical aspect of its development, influencing everything from infrastructure to social services.

To truly appreciate the scale and impact of Lagos’ demographic shifts, consider these key points:

• Population Density : Lagos is densely populated, with significant implications for urban planning and quality of life.
• Migration Patterns : Continuous influx from rural areas and other nations has transformed the cityscape.
• Cultural Diversity : A vast array of cultural backgrounds contributes to the city’s vibrant social and economic life.

Understanding these elements offers a clearer view of Lagos, not just as a city of sheer numbers, but as a lively, evolving metropolis.

Exploring Lagos further, let’s now examine its climate, an important factor that greatly influences daily life and activities in this bustling city. Lagos boasts a tropical climate, characterized by significant humidity levels and temperature fluctuations that can challenge even the most seasoned travelers. The city experiences two major weather patterns: the rainy season and the dry season, each bringing its unique climate impact to the region.

During the rainy season, which spans from April to October, the city witnesses heavy downpours that can disrupt daily routines but also bring a revitalizing respite from the heat. The intensity of these rains varies, but they’re a constant reminder of nature’s influence over urban life. In contrast, the dry season from November to March includes the Harmattan period, where dust-laden winds from the Sahara desert sweep across the city, dropping the humidity but increasing visibility issues due to the fine dust in the air.

Navigating through these seasonal changes requires an understanding of the local weather conditions . The temperature, while generally warm year-round, can vary slightly between these seasons. This variance in temperature and humidity levels plays a significant role in planning any activities or ventures outdoors.

Understanding Lagos’s climate zones also helps in appreciating how weather conditions shape the social and cultural dynamics of the city. From bustling market days that thrive in cooler temperatures to beach outings that are perfect under the sunny skies of the dry season, the climate undeniably molds the local lifestyle. Engaging with this city means adapting to its rhythm, dictated largely by its tropical climate and seasonal nuances.

Lagos’s economy thrives as a bustling commercial hub, playing a major role in Nigeria’s overall economic landscape. I’ve seen firsthand how its dynamic market trends and robust job market create myriad business opportunities. The city’s economic growth is palpable, fueled by a vibrant industrial sector and a thriving financial sector. Investment potential here is substantial, with a focus on infrastructure development that supports both trade relations and industrial expansions.

Lagos isn’t just about traditional commerce; the tourism impact is significant. Attractions and cultural festivities draw international visitors, enhancing trade and hospitality services. This synergy between various sectors contributes to a diverse and resilient economy.

Here’s how you can engage with Lagos’s economic landscape:

• Explore Business Opportunities : From tech startups to fashion, Lagos offers a fertile ground for new ventures.
• Invest in the Market : With a growing middle class, investment in real estate and local businesses can be lucrative.
• Network in the Financial Sector : Lagos’s banks and investment firms are central to Africa’s financial markets.

Delving into Lagos’s economy, I’ve observed how the blend of traditional markets and modern enterprises creates a unique environment for growth and innovation. Whether you’re looking to invest, start a business, or simply understand the economic dynamics, Lagos presents a compelling narrative of progress and potential. The city’s commitment to expanding its infrastructure and improving its trade relations promises a bright future for both residents and international partners.

Lagos boasts a vibrant mosaic of ethnic groups, primarily dominated by the Yoruba, but also enriched by a diverse array of other communities including Igbo, Hausa, and various expatriate populations. This cultural diversity isn’t just a statistic; it shapes every facet of life here, from the food we eat to the clothes we wear.

Walking through Lagos, you’ll see the colorful expressions of traditional attire that tell stories of cultural heritage and tribal identities. The Yoruba’s flowing ‘Agbada’, the Igbo’s vibrant ‘Isiagu’, and the Hausa’s elegant ‘Babban riga’ are more than just clothing; they’re emblems of pride and history.

The city pulses with ethnic festivals that are a spectacle of unity and joy. The Eyo Festival on Lagos Island, with its masquerades and regal costumes, showcases the unique cultural heritage of the Yoruba, while the New Yam Festival celebrated by the Igbo highlights the importance of the yam in their culture. These ethnic celebrations offer a glimpse into tribal customs that have survived the test of time.

Indigenous cuisine here is a treat for the adventurous foodie. From the spicy, palm-oil rich dishes of the Yoruba to the succulent suya kebabs of the Hausa, every meal is a journey. Ethnic neighborhoods buzz with the sound of traditional music, from the soulful Afrobeat to the rhythmic talking drums, each beat and melody a story of the tribes.

Lagos, with its tapestry of tribal languages and customs, isn’t just a city; it’s a living museum of cultural heritage, continually weaving the old with the new. Here, every day is a celebration of diversity and history.

Public Transportation

Moving through the bustling cityscape of Lagos, one finds that the public transportation system offers a robust array of options, from buses and taxis to ferries, catering to both locals and visitors alike. As a traveler keen on soaking up every bit of Lagos without the constraint of a private car, I’ve navigated the city extensively using these public amenities .

Bus services in Lagos are the lifeline for daily commuters. The BRT (Bus Rapid Transit) lanes help in somewhat mitigating the notorious traffic challenges, offering a quicker commute through designated lanes. I’ve found the buses to be cost-effective, although peak hours can get crowded. For more personalized travel, taxi experiences range from conventional cabs to ride-sharing options like Uber and Bolt, which provide convenience and safety, especially when I’m traveling late.

The recent train upgrades are promising, particularly with the Lagos-Ibadan railway enhancing connectivity. It’s a relief to see improvements that encourage using public rail over road transport, which is often hampered by gridlocks.

Ferry options provide a scenic and less congested route. On days when I feel adventurous, hopping on a ferry at one of the numerous terminals offers an invigorating perspective of the city from its waterways. It’s also quicker when commuting between the mainland and the islands.

Navigating Lagos demands local insights to efficiently use its complex transit networks. Here are some commuting tips:

• Use ride-sharing apps in unfamiliar areas for safety.
• Avoid rush hours for buses and ferries to escape the crush.
• Always have local currency handy for public transport fares.

Each journey teaches me more about the vibrant rhythm of Lagos, ensuring I’m a part of its dynamic flow rather than just a bystander.

Upon arrival at Murtala Muhammed International Airport, the primary gateway into Lagos, I’m immediately enveloped by the energetic pulse of the city. As I navigate through the bustling terminal , it’s clear that the airport facilities are designed to cater to the needs of both international travelers and domestic flyers. With flights arriving from Europe, the Middle East, and beyond, the international flights terminal is a hub of activity where cultures converge.

The arrival procedures are straightforward, guiding passengers efficiently through customs regulations, which are thorough yet fair. The staff manages baggage handling with care, ensuring that even during peak times, the process remains smooth. Inside the terminal, the departure lounges offer comfort and modern amenities, allowing travelers a moment of relaxation before their journey.

For those interested in shopping, the duty-free area provides a variety of goods, from luxury brands to local treasures. It’s a perfect spot to grab last-minute gifts or indulge in some retail therapy.

Navigating the airport is made easy with various transit options available for airport transfers. Whether it’s a taxi, bus, or a private car, moving from the airport to the heart of Lagos or to any other destination is seamless. Domestic airlines operate with commendable frequency, connecting Lagos to other major cities across Nigeria.

As I prepare to leave the airport, I’m impressed by the efficiency and vibrancy that Murtala Muhammed International Airport offers. It’s more than just a travel hub; it’s a lively introduction to the dynamic spirit of Lagos.

Top 10 Tourist Attractions

Exploring the top 10 tourist attractions in Lagos offers a fascinating glimpse into the city’s rich cultural tapestry and vibrant urban life. From the bustling local markets to serene beach excursions, there’s an adventure around every corner. I’ve immersed myself in everything from historical sites that whisper tales of the past to the pulsating beats of nightlife hotspots that showcase Lagos’s modern vibrancy.

During my travels, I’ve found that to truly experience Lagos, one must delve into its cultural experiences that are as diverse as its population. Historical sites like the Badagry Historic Town provide profound insights into Nigeria’s colonial and slave trade history, while the National Museum offers artifacts that tell the story of Nigeria’s rich heritage.

Water activities along the coast, such as snorkeling and boat tours , reveal a mesmerizing underwater world, while city tours guide you through the heart of Lagos’s bustling streets. Wildlife encounters at conservation centers like the Lekki Conservation Centre introduce visitors to the flora and fauna of Nigeria’s unique ecosystems.

• Local markets – A haven for food adventures and authentic cultural exchanges.
• Nightlife hotspots – From rooftop bars to beachfront parties, the city comes alive at night.
• Shopping sprees – Whether it’s high-end boutiques or street stalls, shopping in Lagos is a treasure hunt.

Each experience has been a doorway to understanding the layers that make Lagos a city of freedom, adventure, and discovery, continually inviting me to explore deeper and embrace its spirited lifestyle.

Professional Sports

Lagos bursts with enthusiasm for professional sports, showcasing an exceptional scene that includes football, basketball, and track events. The city’s sports culture is deeply integrated into its social fabric, creating an electrifying atmosphere at various athletic events. From the roaring crowds at Teslim Balogun Stadium to the intense team rivalries that define local leagues, every match is a display of passion and prowess.

I’ve attended several football games where the energy is palpable. The fan experiences are unlike any other, with chants, songs, and dances that continue long after the final whistle. Lagosians take pride in their teams, often wearing sports memorabilia as a badge of honor. Player profiles are discussed not just in stadiums but in casual conversations, highlighting the personal connection fans have with their heroes.

The city is also home to excellent sports facilities that cater to both athletes and spectators. Stadium tours are available for those interested in behind-the-scenes actions and architectural marvels. These tours offer insights into the coaching strategies that propel Lagos teams to victory, adding a layer of depth to the sports enthusiast’s visit.

Moreover, sports tourism thrives here. Visitors come from all around to witness firsthand the spectacle of Lagos’ sports events. The blend of local talent and enthusiastic support makes each game a memorable journey into the heart of Lagos’ community spirit.

Engaging in this dynamic sports scene hasn’t only enriched my understanding of the games but also deepened my appreciation for the city’s vibrant culture. Whether you’re a die-hard sports fan or a curious traveler, Lagos offers a compelling slice of athletic excellence.

Diving into the culinary scene, I quickly discovered that Lagos offers an exhilarating blend of traditional Nigerian flavors and innovative dining experiences. From bustling food markets to high-end restaurants, each spot tells a story of cultural fusion that’s as tantalizing to the palate as it’s to the soul.

Exploring local delicacies, I savored dishes like Jollof rice, a spiced, tomato-based delight, and Suya, spicy skewered meat that’s a street food favorite. The seafood specialties didn’t disappoint either, with fresh catches like grilled prawns and fish pepper soup that resonated with vibrant flavors. For a touch of sophistication, I indulged in some fine dining at upscale spots on Victoria Island, where international techniques and local ingredients create a dance of tastes unique to Lagos.

My culinary journey wouldn’t have been complete without participating in a few culinary excursions. These guided experiences offered insightful looks into the heart of Lagos’ food scene, from visiting traditional food markets bustling with daily catches and farm-fresh produce to enjoying the lively atmosphere of local food festivals, where the air buzzes with music, laughter, and the aromas of countless dishes cooking.

For those with a sweet tooth, the dessert spots around Lagos are a must-visit. I found myself lost in the flavors of freshly made Nigerian puff-puffs and decadent cakes that rounded off my meals beautifully.

• To truly experience the depth of Lagos’ food scene, don’t miss:
• Local food markets for fresh ingredients and traditional dishes.
• Seafood specialties at coastal eateries.
• Food festivals to engage with the local community and taste a variety of dishes.

Arts & Leisure

Immersing myself in the vibrant arts scene, I discovered that Lagos brims with galleries, live music venues, and theatrical performances that reflect its dynamic cultural heritage. Each corner of the city offers a unique expression of creativity that captivates and educates.

I started my exploration with a visit to several art exhibitions, where local and international artists showcased works that ranged from abstract paintings to intricate sculptures. These exhibitions not only displayed aesthetic beauty but also sparked conversations about societal issues, illustrating the significance of art as a form of communication.

Cultural performances were next on my agenda. I attended a traditional Yoruba dance performance that was both exhilarating and enlightening. The dancers’ movements were synchronized with the beat of the drums, telling stories of folklore and history through their steps. This experience gave me a deeper appreciation for Lagos’s rich cultural tapestry.

No visit to Lagos would be complete without experiencing its music festivals. The vibrant beats and rhythmic melodies of Afrobeat music filled the air, creating an atmosphere of freedom and joy that’s infectious. These festivals are a reflection of the city’s thriving music scene and its ability to bring people together from all walks of life.

To dive deeper into local crafts, I participated in craft workshops and took dance classes that taught traditional and contemporary styles. Both activities were hands-on and deeply immersive, offering a personal connection to the artistic practices that thrive in Lagos.

I rounded off my journey with street art tours, which highlighted the city’s dynamic urban culture. These tours showcased breathtaking murals and installations, providing insight into the city’s social and political narratives through visual art.

Frequently Asked Questions

What local festivals are unique to lagos.

I’m intrigued by Lagos’ local festivals, where costume designs dazzle and music genres vary. Street parades, dance performances, and nighttime celebrations highlight community involvement, while festival foods and craft markets showcase cultural exhibitions.

How Do I Obtain a Tourist Visa for Nigeria?

To obtain a Nigerian tourist visa , I’ll need to check visa requirements , gather supporting documents, and apply through the nearest consulate . The application process includes paying visa fees and considering processing times.

Are There Eco-Friendly Hotels in Lagos?

Yes, Lagos offers eco-friendly hotels focused on sustainability. These establishments prioritize energy efficiency, water conservation , and waste reduction. They often feature local sourcing and renewable energy, enhancing the benefits of eco-tourism .

What Are Emergency Healthcare Options in Lagos?

I’d check local hospital locations and make sure I know emergency numbers. Private clinics and public hospitals might differ in service, so I’d consider insurance advice and look into nearby pharmacies and vaccination requirements.

Can I Rent a Bike to Explore Lagos?

I’m considering renting a bike to explore, but I’ll need to check bike rental locations, understand the local laws, and inquire about guided tours, rental costs, and safety gear availability first.

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The Top 11 Things to Do in Lagos, Nigeria

Formerly the capital of Nigeria , Lagos retains its title as the country’s largest city. In terms of culture and its booming, oil-based economy, it is also the most important. A dizzying metropolis, the city has a reputation as a tech and nightlife hub. Explore the mainland and Lagos Island with their historic museums and colorful markets, or cross over the lagoon to the affluent, cosmopolitan Victoria Island, where exclusive beach resorts vie for space with upmarket dining and shopping opportunities. Read on for 11 of the best ways to spend your time in Lagos: the bold, brash, and fascinating heart of Nigeria. 

Spend the Day Relaxing at Tarkwa Bay Beach

Tarkwa Bay Beach is one of the city's best beaches, made special by its location on an island near the mouth of Lagos Lagoon. Getting there involves a water taxi, which adds to the sense of leaving the bustle of the city proper behind. When you arrive, a sheltered stretch of golden sand awaits. Tarkwa Bay is quieter than many of its Victoria Island counterparts, making it the ideal place to relax, soak up the sunshine, or go for a swim in the warm Gulf of Guinea. Water sports are also popular, with options for jet skiing and waterskiing. Bring a picnic with you, or purchase street-style food from the island locals who make their living catering to those who travel to the beach from the city. Speedboat rides to the beach are available from the marina for 1,500 naira per person.

Get the VIP Experience at Landmark Leisure Beach

For a completely different beach experience, head to glamorous Landmark Leisure Beach, a private beach resort on Victoria Island. Aimed at affluent Lagosians and cosmopolitan visitors, this beach boasts a scenic expanse of sand, separated from the Landmark Village by a well-maintained boardwalk. The village is a curated selection of boutiques, bars, and restaurants (including Lagos’ Hard Rock Café ) that together offer a range of quality albeit pricey wares. The club also has a whole host of organized activities for a fun-filled day out—think kite surfing, jet skiing, beach paintball, beach volleyball, and beach soccer. If you’d rather sit back and relax, there are more than 40 loungers and 20 cabanas available to rent. The beach is open from 10 a.m. to 10 p.m. Monday through Thursday, and until 11:30 p.m. from Friday to Sunday. 

Discover Creative Culture at Nike Art Centre

Lagos' Nike Art Centre is one of four centers for art and culture set up in Nigeria by the award-winning and internationally renowned Nigerian artist Nike Okundaye. More than a gallery, this four-story space is a testament to Nike’s considerable achievements, and to her passion for ensuring that traditional Nigerian arts survive into the modern era. Come to watch artisan craftspeople practicing the age-old arts of batik, indigo, adire, weaving, carving, embroidery, and more. You can purchase masterpieces directly from the artists (making for a fantastic souvenir of your time in Lagos), or even sign up for a workshop to learn the basics of these skills yourself. Nike also offers art tours to her other centers around Nigeria, including one in the Yoruba heartland of Oshogbo. The Lagos center is open every day from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. 

Support Local Craftspeople at Lekki Market

For a more affordable souvenir shopping experience that also doubles as an authentic immersion into the Nigerian way of life, pay a visit to Lekki Market on the Lekki Peninsula. Here, craftspeople from all over the country gather to sell their wares, which range from traditional paintings and sculptures to elaborate beadwork and African fashions. In particular, the market is known for its high quality, colorful textiles, which are created using special techniques such as adire and batik. Buy lengths of cloth to take home for your own sewing projects, or commission the market’s talented seamstresses to create custom-made clothing for you on the spot. Although it has a good reputation for safety, it’s still advisable to be vigilant of your belongings. For the least chaotic experience, visit during the week when the market is a bit quieter.

Celebrate Nigerian Independence in Freedom Park

Situated on Lagos Island, downtown Freedom Park was built in 2010 to mark the 50th anniversary of Nigerian independence. Fittingly, the memorial and heritage site stands on the land once occupied by Her Majesty’s Broad Street Prison, where Nigerian freedom fighters were imprisoned before the end of colonial rule. Now, the park celebrates Nigerian culture and history with a series of contemporary statues. There is plenty of green space and benches on which to sit and reflect, and in the evening, the park becomes a center for recreation with live music, street performances, and some excellent food vendors. The park is open every day from 11 a.m. until 11 p.m., except on Sundays when it opens at 2 p.m. 

Admire Splendid Monuments in Tafawa Balewa Square

Olasunkanmiariyo / Wikimedia Commons

To learn more about the Nigerian struggle for independence, combine your visit to Freedom Park with a 10-minute stroll to nearby Tafawa Balewa Square. This landmark address is named after Nigeria’s first prime minister, and it was here that Sir Abubakar Tafawa Balewa announced the country’s independence on October 1, 1960. There is plenty to see here, including a monumental entrance adorned with giant statues of four white horses and seven red eagles. Around the square’s perimeter, important buildings including the Nigerian National Assembly, Independence House, and Remembrance Arcade stand. The latter is dedicated to the Nigerians who fought in both world wars and the country’s own civil war. The square is often used for official events and celebrations, so you never know what you might find when you visit.

Learn About Nigerian History at the National Museum

Lagos Island is also home to the National Museum, a repository of somewhat tired but nevertheless insightful displays detailing the history of Nigeria and its various tribes. Consider hiring a guide to get the most out of your visit, and to hear the stories behind the museum’s many artworks, statues, and artifacts. Among the most interesting is the Jemaa Head, a terracotta sculpture dated to between 900 and 200 BC, and the Cycle of Life exhibit, which explores different tribal approaches to each stage of human existence. In particular, look out for a clay pot of the kind used by the Yoruba to bury babies' umbilical cords, as well as an elaborately embellished Egungun ceremonial costume worn by dancers during the funeral of the village chief. The museum opens from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. and entry costs 300 naira for foreign visitors. 

Reconnect With Nature at Lekki Conservation Centre

Turizimpressions / Wikimedia Commons

An oasis of green in a city otherwise dominated by concrete, Lekki Conservation Centre is located on Victoria Island. Founded in an effort to protect the native flora and fauna of the Lekki Peninsula, it incorporates 78 hectares of tropical forest accessed via a wooden boardwalk and a canopy walkway that’s renowned as the longest structure of its kind on the continent. Whether you choose to explore at ground level or high up in the trees, keep an eye out for the reserve’s exotic residents. These include the Old World mona monkey, crocodiles, monitor lizards, and an impressive variety of colorful birds. These are best viewed from the dedicated bird hide and swamp lookout station. Lekki Conservation Centre opens daily from 8:30 a.m. to 5 p.m., and costs 1,000 naira to enter. 

Pay Your Respects to a Legend at Kalakuta Republic Museum

Musician, composer, and political activist Fela Kuti was one of Nigeria’s most famous sons. Credited with founding the Afrobeat genre (to which many of Lagos’ nightclubs and bars continue to reverberate today), he is something of a legend to music aficionados. Those who want to learn more about his life and legacy can do so at the Kalakuta Republic Museum, the same building in which Fela founded a commune that he declared independent from the military dictatorship that ruled Nigeria at the time. Today, the museum is managed by one of Fela’s sons and filled with artifacts relating to his astonishing life. These include photographs, murals, posters, album covers, newspaper cuttings, some of his many musical instruments, and his immaculately preserved bedroom. The museum is located in Ikeja, and includes a rooftop café and rooms available for overnight stays. 

Take a Boat Tour of Makoko Floating Village

On the murky brown waters of Lagos Lagoon stand the stilted houses, shops, schools, and churches that make up Makoko Floating Village, a waterfront slum euphemistically entitled the Venice of Africa. The fishing village was founded over a century ago by settlers from Togo and Benin, but now provides a home for myriad different cultures and ethnicities. It is a fascinating place, and one that can be safely explored on a Makoko boat tour. Be sure to choose a local operator with ties to the community, so that your visit benefits those who need it the most rather than allowing a third party to profit off what some see as poverty tourism. However, if you do it right, a tour can be a valuable learning experience and a chance to interact with the residents of one of Lagos’ most unique areas. Most include an opportunity to eat at a local restaurant, where authentic specialties are the order of the day. 

Check Out Some of the Best Nightlife Spots in Lagos

THE NEW AFRIKA SHRINE / Facebook

If you like to dance, Lagos is the city for you. With a reputation for some epic, anything-goes nightlife, it offers everything from al fresco beach bars to nightclubs with celebrity DJs and VIP table service. If a trip to the Kalakuta Republic Museum has you wishing to explore the best of Afrobeat, head to New Afrika Shrine , a 2,500-head club opened in Fela Kuti’s honor by his family. His sons Femi and Seun are regular performers, and there is a hugely popular disco night every Friday. In addition to great music, the venue is known for its inclusive atmosphere with dancers of all colors and classes welcome. Other top spots for a party include upmarket nightclub Quilox (the long-standing luxury option of choice for partygoers on Victoria Island) and Elegushi Beach (infamous for its raucous Sunday night dance parties). 

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Lagos, Nigeria Travel Guide

Lagos, Nigeria Travel Guide Table of Contents

Exploring the best of lagos: a guide to the city’s top attractions, where to eat in lagos: a guide to the city’s best restaurants, shopping in lagos: a guide to the city’s best markets and shopping centers.

Welcome to Lagos, Nigeria Travel Guide! This vibrant city is the largest in the country and is known for its lively atmosphere, bustling markets, and beautiful beaches. From the iconic skyline of Victoria Island to the lively nightlife of Lekki, Lagos has something for everyone. Whether you’re looking for a relaxing beach holiday or an exciting city break, Lagos has it all. This travel guide will provide you with all the information you need to make the most of your time in this amazing city. From the best places to stay and eat, to the top attractions and activities, you’ll find everything you need to plan the perfect trip. So, let’s get started!

Welcome to Lagos, Nigeria! This vibrant city is full of exciting attractions and activities that will make your visit unforgettable. From its stunning beaches to its bustling markets, Lagos has something for everyone. Here’s a guide to the top attractions in the city.

Beaches: Lagos is home to some of the most beautiful beaches in the world. Whether you’re looking for a relaxing day in the sun or an exciting night out, the city’s beaches have something for everyone. Head to Bar Beach for a stunning view of the Atlantic Ocean, or to Tarkwa Bay for a more secluded experience.

Markets: Lagos is known for its bustling markets, where you can find everything from fresh produce to handmade crafts. The popular Balogun Market is a great place to find traditional Nigerian clothing and accessories, while the Oyingbo Market is the perfect spot to pick up souvenirs.

Nightlife: Lagos is home to some of the best nightlife in Africa . From lively bars and clubs to intimate lounges, there’s something for everyone. Check out the popular Quilox Club for a night of dancing and drinks, or head to the rooftop bar at the Eko Hotel for a more relaxed atmosphere.

Museums: Lagos is home to a number of fascinating museums, including the National Museum, which houses a collection of artifacts from Nigeria’s history. The National Gallery of Art is also worth a visit, with its impressive collection of African art.

These are just a few of the top attractions in Lagos. Whether you’re looking for a relaxing beach day or a night out on the town, this vibrant city has something for everyone. So what are you waiting for? Come explore the best of Lagos!

If you’re looking for traditional Nigerian cuisine, head to the popular eatery, Amala Joint. This restaurant serves up delicious dishes like amala (a yam-based dish) and ewedu (a spinach-based stew). The atmosphere is casual and the prices are very reasonable.

For a more upscale experience, try the chic restaurant, Eko Kitchen. This restaurant serves up modern Nigerian dishes with a twist. The menu features dishes like jollof rice and suya (grilled beef skewers). The atmosphere is sophisticated and the prices are a bit higher than other restaurants.

If you’re in the mood for international flavors, check out the popular restaurant, The Place. This restaurant serves up a variety of dishes from around the world, including Italian, Mexican, and Chinese. The atmosphere is relaxed and the prices are very reasonable.

For a unique dining experience, head to the trendy restaurant, The Fish House. This restaurant serves up fresh seafood dishes like grilled fish and shrimp. The atmosphere is lively and the prices are a bit higher than other restaurants.

Finally, if you’re looking for a quick bite, head to the popular fast food joint, Chicken Republic. This restaurant serves up delicious fried chicken and other fast food favorites. The atmosphere is casual and the prices are very reasonable.

No matter what type of cuisine you’re in the mood for, you’ll find plenty of delicious places to eat in Lagos. Bon appétit !

Welcome to Lagos, the vibrant and bustling city of Nigeria! Whether you’re a local or a visitor, you’ll find plenty of shopping opportunities here. From bustling markets to modern shopping centers, Lagos has something for everyone. Here’s a guide to the city’s best shopping spots.

Lagos is home to some of the most vibrant markets in the country. Balogun Market is one of the oldest and most popular markets in the city. Here, you’ll find everything from traditional fabrics to electronics and jewelry . The market is also known for its lively atmosphere and friendly vendors.

Another popular market is the Idumota Market. This market is known for its wide selection of fabrics, jewelry, and traditional Nigerian clothing. It’s also a great place to find souvenirs and gifts.

Shopping Centers

If you’re looking for a more modern shopping experience, Lagos has plenty of shopping centers to choose from. The Palms Shopping Mall is one of the most popular malls in the city. Here, you’ll find a wide selection of stores, restaurants, and entertainment options.

The Ikeja City Mall is another great option. This mall is known for its wide selection of international brands and its modern design. It’s also home to a variety of restaurants and cafes.

No matter what you’re looking for, Lagos has something for everyone. From bustling markets to modern shopping centers, you’ll find plenty of shopping opportunities in this vibrant city. Happy shopping!

Q: What is the best time of year to visit Lagos, Nigeria?

A: The best time to visit Lagos, Nigeria is during the dry season, which runs from November to March. This is when temperatures are cooler and there is less rainfall.

Q: What are some of the top attractions in Lagos, Nigeria?

A: Some of the top attractions in Lagos, Nigeria include the National Museum, the National Theatre, the Lekki Conservation Centre, the National Arts Theatre, and the Tafawa Balewa Square.

Q: What is the best way to get around Lagos, Nigeria?

A: The best way to get around Lagos, Nigeria is by using the public transportation system, which includes buses, taxis, and motorbike taxis. You can also rent a car or hire a private driver.Lagos, Nigeria is a vibrant and exciting city that offers something for everyone. From its bustling markets and vibrant nightlife to its stunning beaches and historical sites, Lagos is a great destination for travelers of all ages. With its friendly locals, delicious cuisine, and diverse culture, Lagos is a great place to explore and experience the best of Nigeria. Whether you’re looking for a relaxing beach holiday or an exciting city break, Lagos is the perfect destination for your next trip.

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• 1 Districts
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Lagos (Yoruba: Èkó ) is the most populous city in Nigeria , spreading out across two main islands and onto the mainland. It is the country's financial capital, and is famous throughout Africa for its music scene. Lagos has a vibrant nightlife. It is the centre of the Nigerian movie industry, often referred to as 'Nollywood'.

The main districts in Lagos State are the mainland , Greater Lagos and the Islands . Three major bridges join the island to the mainland. They are the Carter Bridge which starts from Iddo Island, the Eko Bridge (formerly called the Second Mainland Bridge), and the Third Mainland Bridge, which passes through densely populated mainland suburbs through Lagos lagoon.

There are two major urban islands of Lagos in Lagos Lagoon — Lagos Island and Victoria Island. These islands are separated from the mainland by the main channel draining the lagoon into the Atlantic ocean, which forms Lagos Harbour. The islands are separated from each other by creeks of varying sizes and are connected to Lagos Island by bridges.

With an estimated population of 8.8 million inhabitants in the city, or 16 million in the metropolitan area, Lagos ranks as the most populous city in Africa , after overtaking Cairo . Also known as Èkó in the Yoruba language, and affectionately called 'Lag', 'Gidi' or 'Las Gidi' as a form of slang-by the younger generation, it is a port and the most populous conurbation in Nigeria.

• Formerly the capital of Nigeria, Lagos is a huge metropolis which originated on islands separated by creeks.
• The city is the economic and financial capital of Nigeria.
• Portuguese explorer Rui de Sequeira visited the area in 1472, naming the area around the city Lago de Curamo; indeed the present name is Portuguese for "lakes". Another explanation is that Lagos was named for Lagos, Portugal — a maritime town which at the time was the main centre of the Portuguese expeditions down the African coast and whose own name is derived from the Latin word Lacobriga.
• From 1404 to 1889 it served as a major centre of the slave trade, ruled over by a Yoruba chief called the Oba of Lagos.
• Lagos was the capital of Nigeria from 1914 up to 1991. The city was stripped of its status when the Federal Capital Territory was established at the purpose-built city of Abuja .

The city of Lagos lies in south-western Nigeria, on the Atlantic coast in the Gulf of Guinea, west of the Niger River delta. Most of the population live on the mainland, and most industries are located there too. Lagos is known for its music and night life which used to be in areas around Yaba and Surulere, but more night clubs have sprung on the island making the island especially Victoria Island, the main nightlife attraction.

• Lagos State Government website

Lagos is close (about 100   km) to the border with Benin . Should you fly out of the International Airport in Lagos, arrive early, especially close to weekends and festive days, as the security has been beefed up significantly (you need to have your passport and ticket to enter the airport departure area) since the December 2009 liquid explosive incident where the terrorist started his journey from Murtala Muhammed International Airport.

For foreigners, the immigration process can be tedious and slow as there are two immigration officials at each desk (presumably to reduce corruption). Nigerians and the West African (ECOWAS) passport holders receive first priority. Families with young children and disabled people are normally also given priority. When filling in the arrival card for immigration you must have an address in Nigeria and a Nigerian contact number - they have been known to call this number to verify that you are expected.

After immigration you collect your bag at one of the baggage conveyors; check beside the start of the conveyor if you have fragile or oversized baggage.

If you are travelling with a multi-national corporation, you will often be met by the "Protocol Officers" in the luggage collection hall. These agents will ensure you meet with the official company drivers and get safe passage out of the airport.

After collecting your luggage you pass customs and agricultural inspections and there is a pretty good chance your bag will be searched for the usual contraband.

Then a health inspector will check your yellow fever card. This has been a soft spot for many travelers as there must be ten days between inoculation and travel and the officials denied entry to passengers (i.e. put back on the next plane out).

Finally, you must have your luggage tag from check-in as security will not allow you to leave the airport without producing this tag that corresponds to each bag.

Do not leave the airport if you have not made contact with your driver or pick-up as you are not allowed back into the airport after exiting.

Many international flights leave in the evenings and the airport becomes very congested after 5PM with long queues for check-in. Vehicular traffic in the airport is very heavy in the evenings. So plan to arrive at the airport at least 4 hours before your flight. The check-in process takes a long time if you are not in business class or priority check-in. Your baggage pre-weighed and if it is more than 23 kg per bag you will have to reduce the weight. Then you have your passport details checked by the ground crew.

Your bags are searched by agriculture, customs, and "antiquities" agents and any indigenous trinkets are likely to be confiscated; this is the bottle-neck in the check-in process.

Finally, you reach the check-in counter and receive your ticket and the departure card to be filled in for the immigration control.

At either end of the departures hall are new extensions that house immigration, security checks, and passport control . Hand in your departure card and proceed to the security checks. Since the Christmas bomber the checks are very thorough. New scanners and passport control counters have made this part of the departure process very easy (previously this could take two hours).

There are pay-access and Priority Pass lounges after passport control (after two hours in the security queue, you will want to use it if you have the time and US$50 to spare). Use Oasis or Skye Lounge, both of which are good, especially Oasis which is very nice even by 1st world standards. Gabfol lounge is free, but you pay for food and drinks.

Before boarding, there is a final passport check, yellow fever card, and boarding pass. Your hand luggage is opened and searched and you are frisked. Finally you board the plane.

Rail services in Nigeria have been slow and unreliable for decades. However Nigerian Railway Corporation has opened a new higher-speed Lagos-Ibadan Railway between Lagos and Ibadan via Abeokuta , with a significant reduction in travel time. Work is ongoing to expand the line towards Kano , but it is unclear when further sections will be opened.

The old, and much slower, colonial railway has been rehabilitated in some parts and there are a few long-distance trains running. Most useful for tourists is the overnight sleeper from Kano via Kaduna , which operates a few times per week in each direction.

• 6.485487 3.381093 2 Lagos-Ebute Metta railway station . The new central railway hub, long-distance trains from Ibadan call here. ( updated Nov 2020 )

Lagos blue rail

Several bus companies like Agofure God Is Good Motors , ABC Transport , Ifesinachi [ dead link ] and The Young Shall Grow offer daily services from almost all major cities around the country as well as international destinations in West Africa. While buses usually are quite comfortable, journey times are very long.

• 6.5558 3.351 4 Oshodi bus terminal . The largest bus terminal for intercity buses. ( updated Nov 2020 )

If traveling around Lagos, be sure to be accompanied by a tourist guide who is familiar with the routes. In Lagos, there are street signs on every single street corner making it easy to locate places and landmarks. With the city spending huge budgets on security, there has been a huge reduction in crime generally. For the most part, it's safe to move about during the day. If you are going out at night, be sure to go in groups, and stick to known routes.

If you are not on a tight budget, you should hire a car and driver, usually available from most of the major hotels and the airport. The price will be around ₦1,000-2,000 per hour, you will be expected to haggle. Talk to the drivers and find one you think will be able to communicate best with as they will be able to tell you things about the places you pass.

Lagos's Bus Rapid Transit (BRT) lines run in segregated lanes and thus run faster than private cars stuck in traffic. The buses are coloured red or blue.

The BRT is one of the three-pronged attacks the state has unleashed against the urban traffic congestion in Lagos. Buses can be an inexpensive and convenient option. Bus fares are relatively affordable and there are numerous routes being plied from the Mainland to the Islands.

The tickets for the BRT and the Lagbus can be purchased at the bus stops before boarding. Tickets range from ₦100-250 (2016). However, the ticket vendors are seldom available in the evening even though the buses ply till late at night. It makes good sense to purchase a ticket booklet or a couple of tickets in bulk beforehand since these don't contain a timestamp.

There are also smaller yellow buses (Danfo) that ply all routes from the mainland to the island and within mainland. For a newbie, the yellow bus system can be quite confusing and it makes good sense to approach a local for help. The local Nigerians will be more than happy to help an Oyinbo (white person). The fare is fixed and starts from ₦50 and increases by distance.

The BRT buses are faster, cleaner and more convenient. They carry hundreds of thousands of passengers on a weekly basis.

The road network of Lagos for the most part is good, but sometimes traffic congestion and limited parking space especially during working hours is rife. Be sure to be on the lookout for road signs, in order to avoid entering one-way roads or streets. LASTMA (Lagos State Traffic Management Agency) is the body responsible for managing traffic in most of the traffic congestion areas. Make sure to follow traffic rules, and avoid driving in the BRT Bus lanes to avoid getting a fine or having your car impounded.

There exists car parks around in hotels, shopping malls, and some of them provide free and safe parking. But if parking in other areas around the city be ready to pay around ₦200 or more.

One of the easiest ways to get around is by taxi. Taxis cost more than buses, typically. With the older taxi cabs it is expected to negotiate the price before you enter and pay on arrival. The cabs are relatively safe. The state has embarked on gradual replacement of rickety buses and taxi cabs with modern ones, fitted with good facilities to enhance comfort.

Through public-private partnerships, new cabs are being introduced regularly by licensed cab operators.

With fares as low as ₦500, depending on the distance, the new air-conditioned taxi cabs are already creating a new image for Lagos. Taxis can be found almost everywhere, and all the new cabs have numbers on them that you can call for a pick up. There are several cab companies servicing Lagos, using both metered and fixed fares,and they generally accept cash:

• [ dead link ] Red Cab. Taxi Service , ☏ +234 802 705 2098 , +234 700 073 3222 , [email protected] .  
• [ dead link ] Corporate Cabs , Plot 3A, Owukori Street, Alaka Estate, Surulere , [email protected] .  
• [ dead link ] Orange Cabs. Taxi Service , 18B, Ladoke Akintola Crescent, G.R.A., Ikeja , ☏ +234 791 7202 , +234 702 911 9504 , +234 819 116 6926 , [email protected] .  
• Uber — Retail unit no. 5. Second upper floor, Maryland Mall, 350/360 Ikorodu Road
• Taxify — 9 Professor Gabriel Olusanya St, Lekki Phase 1

By rented car

Renting a car is another alternative if you are going to be staying for a few days or longer. There are numerous car rental offices in the city, and therefore it is very easy to rent a car from your hotel or resort accommodation to drive around with for the duration of your stay. Avis is your best bet for this; either call or make use of their online services:

• Avis Rent-A-Car , Avis House, 6 Degema Close, Off Park Lane, Apapa GRA , ☏ +234 803 718 7000 , +234 1 764 6442 , [email protected] .  
• Hertz Car Rental , 12 Keffi Street, SW Ikoyi , ☏ +234 1 2703700 .  
• Unity Global Ventures Car Rental , ☏ +1 877 810 1221 (USA), +234 809 189 5630 (Nigeria) , [email protected] . Chauffeur-driven, air-conditioned SUV car rental car hire service. ₦11,500 a day .  
• Novo Car Rentals , 2nd floor, UBA Building, Plot 22B, Idowu Taylor Street, Victoria Island , ☏ +234 1 270 2047 , +234 1 271 7069 , +234 1 873 0193 , [email protected] .  

Lagos Ferry Services Company runs scheduled routes between Lagos Island, Banana island, Mile 2 (Apapa axis) and the mainland. Modern ferries have been assigned to carry both passengers and cargo on the lagoon and on some creeks. The service charge is quite affordable for a tourist.

The first section of the long-awaited Lagos Rail Mass Transit opened in September 2023, connecting the Mainland to Marina on Lagos Island and cutting travel time for the 13-km journey to just 15 minutes. The fare for the trip is N375, payable only by Cowry Card.

There are ambitious expansion plans, including a line to the airport, but progress has been slow.

For travelling short distances, you can use motorbike taxis called Okada. These motorbikes are quick, cheap and save a lot of walking but they are also very dangerous. Okada accidents are very common but safety equipment are now provided because the state government and in fact the Federal Road Safety Commission has mandated it. If you want to take the risk, you can safely halve their first price, and usually there are lots to choose from. Before you try and negotiate, confirm the fare from a local. If you have a Nigerian friend, let them negotiate for you as the quoted fare differs greatly for locals and foreigners (for obvious reasons). Choose an older driver as the younger ones are cowboys.

Safety Helmets are a must at all times for both the rider and passenger. Majority of times these are ill-fitting and sometimes even absent.

By law, Okadas are forbidden to ply after dark (7PM) for safety reasons. Avoid taking an Okada for long distances, while it's raining and in the night since majority of mainland is devoid of street lights.

Okadas and kekes (tuk tuks) were banned by the government in Lagos/Victoria Islands, Ikeja, Apapa, Yaba, and certain other Mainland districts of Lagos effective Feb of 2020 for safety reasons.

It is said that Lagos is for tourists like England is for food — bland and boring. It's a stereotype and not really true, but you have to put the effort in to see Lagos. There are also lots of markets to see, although doing so can be very tiring. They are usually safe during the day.

There are over a dozen beaches in Lagos (Lekki, Alpha, Eleko, Akodo beaches to the east, and Tarkwa Bay, Ogogoro Island, Atlas Cove, Lighthouse beach, Ilashe Beach, Agaja Beach and Badagry beach to the west), making for a wide array to choose from. More beaches are found outside the city, in places like Badagry. Good for picnics and barbecues. Inside the city, Lekki is about as good as it gets.

LUFASI Nature Park

LUFASI Nature Park is an urban forest park on 20 hectares of land along the Lekki-Epe Expressway. The nature park comprises of a relaxation centre for adults, a play park and a football pitch for the young ones or young adults.

Unless you are in a supermarket or restaurant/bar with fixed prices, you will be expected to negotiate the price you pay for an item down to the lowest the vendor would sell. When you are stuck in traffic, expect to see hawkers selling anything from potatoes to drinks. Expect any brand names in these informal markets to be fake, and should you wish to purchase them aim for a very low price.

If you hold a Visa, MasterCard or Maestro credit/debit card you can withdraw cash in Naira from various ATMs around Lagos. Visa machines can be found at Standard Chartered Bank. MasterCard/Maestro machines are found in Ecobank and some Zenith Bank branches.

Foreign currency, U.S. dollars, pounds sterling, or euros can be exchanged in various places, usually near large hotels and the airport. These are not formal bureaux de change and you will need to negotiate the exchange rate. It is strongly recommended that you count your money in front of the exchanger, and don't be afraid to walk away if you are not happy with the deal. Be wary of your safety in money changing areas, and take care to make sure you are not followed when leaving them.

There are formal bureaux de change in the various banks, and you can rest assured about transacting with them, although their rates may be slightly higher or lower than the rates outside.

Some of the good places for shopping are the City Mall and the Lekki Art Market.

Sherlaton has outlets in two places. One in the mainland ( Hotel Newcastle, Antony Village ) and another in VI ( Hotel Cumberland, Adeola Odeku St )

• Mr Bigg's . The ubiquitous Mr Bigg's is Nigeria's version of McDonald's. While western fare such as hamburgers is served, Nigerian delicacies such as jollof rice and moin moin are more popular. Look for the big 'B' with a red and yellow colour scheme - you shouldn't have much trouble finding one in Lagos  
• Tantalizers . Another leading Nigerian fast food chain, Tantalizers serves Nigerian fast food staples such as meat pies, scotch eggs, chicken, jollof rice, fried rice, cake, and hamburgers. Has about 25 outlets in Lagos. ( updated May 2022 )

You can always find amazing places to chill with friends and family in Lagos, and these drinking spots are affordable.

Lagos has some great hotels and many more are being built. There are many 4 star hotels for the price of a 3 star hotel. Try to get a hotel on Victoria Island.

Protea, a South African group, has three hotels in Lagos, all of acceptable standard but not cheap. The prices are reduced if you hold a group loyalty card, the ProKard.

The Wheatbaker , owned by Legacy Hotels and Resorts, a South African hospitality chain, is on Lagos Island.

In general, Lagos has become a much safer place to visit than before, with the state spending huge budgets on security with police patrol cars, CCTV cameras (though this isn't always the case). etc. But beware of deals or businesses that sound too good to be true (especially e-mails soliciting your help), and do not openly flaunt your possessions, especially in public places.

While it is rare for a tourist to be a victim of a violent crime, it is still wise to stay safe and be alert, especially during late night outings. Stick to crowded streets and make sure to go out in groups as against going out alone.

Lagosians are generally nice and friendly people, most of whom will readily offer directions to you if you are lost.

Lagos still has its fair share of street beggars (both the old and young), people with psychological disorders, etc. If someone approaches Lagosians for money, what most of them do is ignore the person or continue to walk at a brisk pace.

There are police officers who are corrupt and inefficient so it is best that you stick to places and people you know and avoid going anywhere without a trusted guide if it is a first visit.

Nigeria has both GSM & CDMA Networks. Most of the International GSM Networks are served here on Roaming Partner Basis. Local pre-activated GSM (SIM) connection can be purchased at a very cheap rate. ₦200 for a SIM.

• 9Mobile Services: Calls, SMS, GPRS and some most advanced feature can be found only on this network.
• Airtel: (formerly Zain or CelTel). Services: Calls, SMS & GPRS Services.
• MTN: Services: Calls, SMS, DATA (Internet) & GPRS Services.
• Glo: Services: Calls, SMS, DATA (Internet) & GPRS Services.
• SWIFT: Services: Calls, SMS & DATA (Internet).
• Spectranet: Services: Calls, SMS & DATA (Internet).
• SMILE: Services: Calls, SMS & DATA (Internet).
• Cyberspace Networks: Services: Calls, SMS & DATA (Internet).
• Vodafone: Services: DATA (Internet).
• Express Wifi: Services: DATA (Internet).
• Wifi.com.ng: Services: DATA (Internet).

Wifi Internet providers

Express Wifi: Services: Calls, SMS & DATA (Internet).

Retail unit no. 5. Second upper floor, Maryland Mall, 350/360 Ikorodu Road

In Nigeria SMS (Short Messaging Service) is known as "Text".

The networks in some parts of Lagos can be very erratic at times. On certain days you cannot make a phone call at all or you will not be able to recharge your phone for the most of the day making business very difficult at times. But its occasional and that is the reason if you want to stay for a long term, make sure that you have at least two phones or a dual SIM phone.

• The ancient slave port of Badagry - also known as the 'Point of No Return'. This ancient town of Badagry was founded around 1425. Before its existence, people lived along the Coast of Gberefu and this area later gave birth to the town of Badagry. It is the second largest commercial town in Lagos State. It is an hour from Lagos and a half-hour from the Republic of Benin.
• Tarkwa Bay on the southern coast
• Go to the numerous towns in South East Nigeria

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Insider’s Guide: 10 Must-Know Tips for Your First Visit to Lagos, Nigeria

This is a guest post written by Jumoke Smiley , a Nigerian local who lives between Lagos and Ibadan. She’s an avid traveller, travel writer, podcaster and experienced curator who runs an amazing tour company The Smiley’s Place Travels. Smiley’s Place Travels curates tours and experiences all around Nigeria, including Lagos and West Africa. 

Lagos has the best vibes from its warm locals to its rich history and culture. It is home to the Afrobeat, the music genre taking the world by storm, some of the African tech unicorns, hundreds of beach fronts, and lots of islands, amongst others.

It is considered to be a city but visitors often forget Lagos is a whole state. Lagos consists of 20 Local Government Areas (LGAs), and these LGAs are all buzzing and super busy. Navigating Lagos on your own can feel chaotic and overwhelming for first-timers.

Visiting for the first time? Here are 10 tips to help you navigate through Lagos like a local.

Other Posts About Nigeria You May Find Helpful:

• 24 Of The Best Things To Do In Lagos, Nigeria
• Top 5 Short Let Apartments In Lekki Phase 1
• The Most Secure AirBnBs In Lagos
• The Influence Of Nigerian Cuisine In Brazil – From Birth To Pain, To Freedom
• How To Make Efo Riro – A Taste of Nigeria 

Table of Contents [ expand ⬇️ ]

1. Best Time To Visit Lagos

The best time to be in Lagos as a first-timer is December, to experience Detty December. Detty December in Lagos can’t be compared to any other in the world, although it comes with much more traffic than usual in Lagos. It’s a season when the Nigerian diaspora returns home for enjoyment. The festivities are lined up with fun activities that range from clubbing, concert-going, beach parties and carnivals to sightseeing.  

Depending on your personality, or if you’re an outgoing person who loves to be outside and enjoys the nightlife, music, and so on, you should visit from November to December. These months are the best time for anyone to be in Lagos.

The optimal period for visiting Lagos falls between November and February when the weather is drier, less air humidity, and the temperature is cooler, thanks to the harmattan winds. On the other hand, June and July are the wettest months which experience intense downpours leading to potential flash floods and considerable traffic congestion in certain city areas. During this period, prices tend to be lower compared to the peak and shoulder months. 

2. You Will Need Data To Stay Connected

To have access to 24/7 data even outside your hotel/accommodation, you need to buy a SIM card. There is no WiFi connection on the streets and internet access might not be consistent everywhere. To get a local SIM card requires registration in which you will need to bring your passport with you and may need a National Identification Number (NIN) number. This is because the sim card will be registered under your name and passport details. 

Alternatively, you can get an e-SIM which allows you to activate a cellular plan from a carrier without needing a physical SIM card. It beats the stress of having to go through the process of registering for a SIM card. Plus as soon as you land at the airport, you’ll be free to use the internet right away, connect with your loved ones and check your favourite apps.   Use the code ‘ TRAVELWITHJOYCE ‘ and get 5% off your data plan with Ajo . 

You can also invest in a MiFi (portable mobile Wi-Fi hotspot) if you are planning on staying in Lagos for a long time. 1GB of data costs N300 which is less than 50 Cent and with $1 you can buy more than 2GB of data.  

3. English Is Widely Spoken 

English is the official language in Nigeria and in general, English is spoken widely in Lagos, but learning a few basic phrases in local languages like Hausa, Yoruba, or Igbo can be helpful and appreciated. You’ll also hear locals speak Nigerian Pidgin English which is a Vernacular English-based language using broken words most popularly spoken across Nigeria and also in West Africa. If you travel through West Africa, you will hear Pidgin being spoken but might sound a bit different from Nigeria’s Pidgin depending on the local language elements incorporated into it. With over 250 ethnic groups speaking more than 500 languages and dialects, Pidgin English is a language that unites Nigeria linguistically. 

4. Vaccination and Medications

One of the necessary vaccinations to be taken before travelling to Nigeria is the Yellow Fever Vaccination. You can also bring your first aid medicines if need be. According to the International Health Regulations (2005), travellers aged 9 months or older arriving from countries where there is a risk of yellow fever transmission must possess a yellow fever vaccination certificate. This requirement also applies to travellers who have transited through an airport in a country with a risk of yellow fever transmission.

5. Pack For Hot and Rainy Weather

The weather in Lagos is mostly hot with an average temperature of 29°C.  However, Lagos experiences a rainy and dry season and even in between these seasons, it’s mostly hot but cloudy days with cooler weather that shouldn’t be underestimated. Bring items like closed-toed hiking sandals, light and loose linen or cotton clothes and wear sunscreen! If you’re travelling during the rainy season, bring a cardigan or a thin sweater you can easily remove when the weather gets too hot and bring a small umbrella with you. 

Travel Tip: Don’t wear military or combat-style clothing or prints as this is against the law in Nigeria and can be seen as impersonating the military. 

6. Cash Is King

The official currency is the Nigerian Naira (NGN). In many establishments, you can make payments with your debit/credit card. It’s important to notify your bank before you travel.  However, you need to carry cash with you as cash is preferred especially when shopping in local markets, and food stalls and using public transport.

7. Try Nigerian Foods When In Lagos

When you’re in Lagos, try out the world-famous “Nigeria’s Jollof Rice”, Ofada Rice, and its sauce, Abula. You should also taste the following soups Edikaikang, Egusi, Efo Riro and Ogbono. These soups should be eaten with any swallow (staple food). Eating local foods is a great way to experience the culture. 

8. Transportation

If you’re with someone familiar with Lagos, you should try out Danfo buses, Keke Marwa (Tuktuk), BRT (these are the buses you would get and fund your payment card to use), and Okada (bike). However, if you’ll be alone or it’s your first visit to Lagos, you should use Bolt, In Driver, or Uber as these are more comfortable transportation options within Lagos. If you plan on using any ride-hailing services while in Lagos, drivers in Lagos always call you before they start coming to pick you up at the start of your trip. Always share your journey with a trusted friend or family member and opt to pay by cash instead of debit card as most drivers prefer cash.

9. Drink Bottled Water

It is crucial to stay well-hydrated by consuming lots of water. Opt for bottled water and avoid drinking water from clear sachets. You can buy a pack of bottled water from supermarkets like Shoprite for N750 ($1.69/ £1.37) for 12 bottles. Avoid drinking water directly from the tap, if you must boil the water or filter your water to make sure it’s clean.

10. Hire a Tour Guide to Explore Lagos

Exploring Lagos with a tour company based in Lagos is a great way to take the stress out of planning. Lagos offers a variety of things to do, from historical tourist attractions such as Badgary to cultural tours. Whether you enjoy market shopping, adrenaline-pumping adventures, buzzing Lagos nightlife experiences or visiting art galleries and a popular Owambe (a party, Nigerian style), there’s something for everyone to enjoy on their trip to Lagos.

Reach out to The Smiley’s Place Travels to book any of these tours or a bespoke package in Lagos, Nigeria.

Would you love to visit Lagos anytime soon?

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A Local’s Guide to Lagos, Nigeria

A former lawyer, Reni Folawiyo left the corporate world to introduce luxury retail to her native Nigeria. Today, her Alara concept store, designed by David Adjaye and found on Lagos’s Victoria Island, houses an expertly curated selection of African and international labels and has become the standard for high-end shopping in the region. Folawiyo has been featured as a member of the BoF 500 .

This interview is part of The World Made Local , a global collaboration between the seven international editions of Condé Nast Traveler in which 100 people in 100 countries tell us why their home turf should be your next destination.

Describe your home for us.

I live primarily in Lagos , Nigeria. It’s not a city that one can easily describe. I feel Lagos more than I see it visually, which is interesting and unique. It’s the energy of this city, the tenacity of the people, the creativity in abundance, the force of the youth, and therefore its promise. I see Lagos as a city in transition, that energy and frenzy that’s leading us somewhere magical.

Tell us about your connection to Lagos

Lagos is becoming a cultural force, I feel lucky to be somewhat in the center of its creative transformation. With my work in Alara and Nok [her restaurant] we are able to influence the transformation by engaging actively with the youth in the arts, creating a platform for them, standing up for them, and believing in their promise. Living in Lagos also allows me to explore more of our culture, as there’s a good connection to other parts of the country where we rediscover age-old traditions and artisans to work with.

Reni Folawiyo

If a friend was in Lagos for 24 hours, where should they go?

Start the day nice and early before the city wakes up, with a walking or cycling tour of old Lagos to see the historical buildings and the origins of Lagos today. Afterward, you could then take a quick boat ride to Tarkwa Bay beach; this ride also allows you to view Lagos from its coast. Take the longer route for a deeper appreciation of the island.

For the early evening, there’s always something cultural and great happening at Freedom Park, which now has a skate park. Jazz in the city is thriving at OTI’s and at Bogobiri for a night out. Start with dinner at Nok, then an hour of jazz, and hopefully, if it’s a Sunday night, finish off at the Fela Kuti shrine. You will probably have to roll from there onto your flight.

For me, sitting quietly people-watching is inspiring—the energy, the rush, or sometimes not; the sense of style on the streets is epic. For everyone is a peacock, literally, and with something profound to say, and so it’s inspiring to me. Or visit me at my woodworking studio, on the outskirts of Lagos, where you will find sculptors, wood carvers, and other artisans experimenting and connecting.

What’s a happening neighborhood to check out?

Yaba, for the contrast of old town and new tech hub, is interesting to me. I’m curious to see how this area develops. It has open-air Afrobeats clubs and restaurants, as well as the popular Tejuosho Market. The University of Lagos is also there.

What excites you about Lagos right now?

The youth; they are claiming the city, and it’s super exciting, in tech, music, food, and the arts in general. They are also pushing the boundaries to live and express themselves freely and openly regardless of old biases and sexuality. It’s the kind of pressure that will eventually create more openness and change.

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A Fashion Designer’s Guide to Lagos

Miles of markets, haute couture cuisine, and a booming arts scene..

It’s commonly understood that the best way to explore a new place is to go straight to the locals. Each week in The Urbanist, we take that wisdom one step further by seeking out not just locals but local experts — those who are especially well versed in their cities’ newest and most noteworthy scenes — to give us insider tips. This week, we asked Folake Folarin Coker , founder, designer, and creative director of fashion label Tiffany Amber , for her recommendations in Nigeria’s largest city.

“Lagos is a lifestyle, a grand, hectic lifestyle. You either love it or you hate it, but I do believe everyone should experience Lagos at least once in a lifetime. It’s just one big adventure, really. There’s a lot to see. Lagos was not designed for tourists. It’s a work-in-progress. What Lagos is for tourists now is 5,000 times better than what it was, say, ten years ago. There’s a lot more to do. Still, people come here for other reasons and then they add tourism, fall in love with the city, and decide to stay or come back. Tourists should definitely visit Bogobiri House (9 Maitama Sule Street). Not to stay — it’s not luxurious at all — but to feed your eyes, to see the art and and get an impression of a typical Lagosian hotel. It’s full of pieces by local artists, who also helped to decorate the rooms. A lot of locals go to the Lekki Conservation Centre (19 Lekki-Epe Expy, Lekki Peninsula II), especially families with children. It’s the closest you can get to the zoo. There are loads of beach resorts — you drive out, you can be by the water, have a picnic. My favorite is Ilashe Beach , because it’s quiet and has a lot of private beach houses. Being there takes you on a mental holiday from the wildness of Lagos. Moist Beach Club is another favorite; it gives a calm and relaxing energy. I’d also suggest visits to Tarkwa Bay Beach, the National Theatre, and the National Museum. And they should visit them by Uber or licensed taxis. I wouldn’t advise tourists to use the BRT bus or an unlicensed taxi on the road. They’re too chaotic. And come December through March, because otherwise it gets really hot, humid, or rainy.”

Her Other Musts

“There are boutique hotels, and most of them reflect the local culture in one way or the other. I recommend Eko Signature (1415 Adetokunbo Ademola Street, PMB 12724) and Wheatbaker (4 Onitolo Road). They’re both five-star hotels. Everything just works at Wheatbaker. If you go there, you’re never going to be stressed. And the hotels will arrange a licensed taxi for you, so you don’t have to worry about the transportation.”

Neighborhood

“There’s a misconception that Lagos is one of the most dangerous cities — it’s far from true. As a Lagosian and a regular traveler, I assure you that I find Lagos safer than a lot of the cities and countries I’ve visited. Don’t throw caution to the wind, that is, take all normal security measures like you would in any foreign land. Ikoyi , Victoria Island , and Lekki Phase 1 are central, and they’re the safest areas. Victoria Island is like Manhattan. Ikoyi is five minutes away from Victoria Island. There’s no traffic, it’s more residential. All the diplomats live there. It’s the wealthiest part of Lagos, the richest part of Lagos. But there’s still a lot there for other people to see, there are shops there, there’s loads of restaurants. If you’re in Ikoyi, you’ll want to go to Tarragon (50 Raymond Njoku Street), the in-house fine dining restaurant at the Culinary Academy, and Danfo Bistro for something more casual.

Local Restaurant

“If there is one thing you can count on doing for fun in Lagos, it’s eating out. One local dish you definitely must try is Jollof Rice. My favorite is ‘Nok by Alara (12a Akin Olugbade). The best way to describe the restaurant is haute couture African dishes. My favorite is this dish called Abula , a mixture of bean soup and draw soup. It’s completely traditional, and you have it with Amala, which is a “swallow” made from yam flour. It’s very delicious. Every Thursday to Sunday, I order it two or three times. That’s how much I love it. And La Brioche for the perfect breakfast. It’s just a normal Continental breakfast, but it’s really good.”

“ Lekki Market for art and craft, Balogun Market for everything under the sun, and Law School Market for everything vegetables and sea foods. I go to the market during the week. Weekends are too crowded when everyone’s not at work. I brace myself for the craziness I’ll have to go through, because it’s really crowded, and it’s noisy. Very noisy. Lekki is probably the sanest. Every tourist that comes into Lagos goes to Lekki Market, because you have artists with loads of arts and crafts, fashion, clothes made with traditional fabric sold at reasonably good prices, clothes and bags and shoes. They have paintings, statues, carvings, anything you would want to bring home. Now, Balogun is the craziest market you can go to. You will find everything under the sun being sold there. Go to Lekki Market first. If it’s overwhelming for you, then you shouldn’t go to Balogun. The third, Law School Market, it is very local, but anything you are looking for in terms of spices and vegetables, you will find it. If you’re staying in an Airbnb and want to cook for yourself, that’s the perfect place to go for seafood and vegetables and spices. Sometimes you see the boats bring in the fish, fresh from the ocean.”

Art Gallery

There’s a thriving arts scene in Lagos, especially because African art has broken into the international market. Now you have places like Sotheby’s selling African art. One of Ben Enwonwu’s paintings sold for a million pounds in London. There are so many different options, like Nike’s Art Gallery , and OYASAF Art Foundation . It’s the biggest private collection in Nigeria, and it’s owned by Yemisi Shyllon, the largest art collector in Africa. I think everything boils down to the fact that Africans really embrace their culture now, and maybe because of the international attention on the African lifestyle, it has broadened it’s appeal and suddenly everyone appreciates it a lot more. You can see that at the Arthouse Foundation (28 Norman Williams Street, Ikoyi), where they have live-work residencies for local artists, as well as a fund to send Nigerian artists abroad to participate in international art programs.

If you want to experience nightlife like a local, you have to go to the New Afrika Shrine (1 Nerdc Road, Agindigbi, Ikeja). That’s a place you would go to as a local. It was founded by Fela Kuti, so it has great historical significance. [Note: Tourists can learn more about Fela Kuti at the Kalakuta Republic Museum .] Let’s put it this way. When Macron came to Lagos a few months ago, that was one of the places he said he had to go to. He was a diplomat in Lagos years ago, and he remembered it as a place that he had so much fun. It’s not like a luxurious setting, but you just feel the vibes of Lagos in there. The wild vibes of Lagos, for lack of a better word.

Sightseeing and Activities

There are so many options for outdoor activities. There’s kayaking at La Campagne Tropicana , golfing at Ikoyi Club 1938 , and horse-riding at Ikeja Saddle Club . There’s the Lagos Polo Club in Ikoyi, too, if you’re interested in polo. Listen to classical music at Muson Centre , or see plays at the National Arts Theatre . Mix with locals at Freedom Park . It’s a park, and you can relax there, but there’s much more than that. There are live music performances, entertainment, monuments, and so much to see. Terra Kulture too (Plot 1376, Tiamiyu Savage, Victoria Island). It’s dedicated to preserving Nigerian culture and language. There’s a restaurant, plays, book readings, exhibitions. If you’re really interested in the history of Lagos, there’s the Badagry Black Heritage Prison , about the trans-Atlantic slave trade.

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Your insider guide to the best neighborhoods in Lagos

Mar 23, 2023 • 9 min read

With heritage sites, beaches and cosmopolitan culture, Nigeria's most populous city has plenty to see and do © Tolu Owoeye

There is so much for visitors to  Lagos to enjoy – depending on the area, you can tour its heritage sites, some dating back 500 years, or taste the cosmopolitan flavors of Nigeria’s food culture. With a 186km (116-mile) coastline sprinkled with beach resorts, it's also got no shortage of places to stretch out in the sunshine and forget your worries.

Once you've shaken off the stress of home and you’re in the mood for some song and dance, Lagosians will proudly tell you there’s no party like a Lagos party. Whenever you're planning to visit, these are some of the best neighborhoods to check out when you arrive.  

Groove to Afrobeats in Ikeja

Lagos is the birthplace of Afrobeats, a genre of music pioneered in the 1970s by the late Fela Kuti. If you’re a fan, nothing could feel more right than dropping in at his former home, now the Kalakuta Republic Museum in Ikeja. 

From the ground floor up, dozens of family portraits line the walls. The tour ends at a terrace bar backdropped by an oil painting of the musician – the default spot for selfies. Order jollof rice, chips and drinks and listen to a continuous stream of Fela’s music, or stay longer by booking one of the five rooms in the second-floor boutique hotel.  

If you'd rather bed in at another hotel in the neighborhood, Treasureland Cottage  and  Presken Hotel are excellent for budget travelers. For a little more luxury, consider the recently opened Watercress Hotels on Oritshe Street, off Awolowo Way.

From there, head to the New Afrika Shrine , built by Fela’s multiple-Grammy-nominee son Femi, who rehearses on Thursday evenings for free and performs to a packed hall during the Shrine’s main show, Sunday Jump. 

The Shrine is about the size of a soccer pitch and is open throughout the week. Its core patrons are young Lagosians who come to play snooker, chat over drinks and watch soccer matches. However, the place is at its liveliest in mid-October during Felabration, the weeklong series of concerts to mark Fela’s birthday, when local and international musicians thrill thousands of fans. Sit on the ground floor, or enjoy the performances from higher up at the back of the hall in the VIP/VVIP sections.  

At this time, the air is smoke-heavy and shows stretch well into the small hours, so consider lodging within the Agidingbi area. Pearlwort Hotel and Suites and De Meros Hotel & Suites – both three-star hotels – are a 10-minute walk away. 

Chill at a park in Alausa

Still in Ikeja, Alausa is the administrative heart of Lagos, but also one of its more ambient locales. Its wide, tree-lined sidewalks – including Governor’s Rd, Governor’s Ave, Mobolaji Johnson Ave and the short stretch of the Obafemi Awolowo Way that runs past the state secretariat – make it one of the easiest neighborhoods to explore on foot.

Stop for a breather at the beautifully landscaped Johnson Jakande Tinubu (JJT) Park, adjoining the Lagos State House of Assembly complex. The park is a great place to spend a refreshing hour or two – it’s quieter on weekdays but packed with picnicking families on weekends, especially on Sundays.

Relax under a shaded tree, or sit in any of the half-dozen gazebos scattered about and watch everyday Lagos drift gently by. While there’s a general atmosphere of calm, familiar sights include students on excursions, celebrants marking their birthdays, couples posing for pre-wedding shoots and small teams recording low-budget music videos. 

Walk down memory lane, from Onikan to Broad Street 

As the hub of British colonial rule from the late 19th century until Nigeria’s independence in 1960, the Onikan–Broad Street–Marina district on Lagos Island is perfect for walking tours.

It has some important historic sites from the years of colonial rule: the National Museum , Tafawa Balewa Square (formerly a race course and the venue for Nigeria’s Independence ceremony), Holy Cross Cathedral (Catholic), Lagos City Hall, St George’s Hall, Government Printing Press, CBAAC Building (houses the FESTAC museum and a library), Old Government House and secretariat and the Christ Church Cathedral (Anglican).  

Take a break and stop over at Freedom Park , enclosed within a 200-year-old fence. Previously a 19th-century prison, it’s now a garden, arts center, gallery, bar, restaurant and museum, all rolled into one; with seating areas scattered throughout, you can choose any part of the leafy surroundings to chill in. The fountain and fish-and-duck pond add to the overall calming ambiance of the place. 

Get a sense of the prison’s dreadful past on a walk through some of its repurposed landmarks: a block of cells is now an exhibition and reading space; the records office, a museum/gallery/office space; the European prisoners' cell block, an amphitheater; and the gallows, a performance stage. 

While at this, you’ll come across more than a dozen sculptural pieces celebrating some of Nigeria’s cherished traditions and the remarkable industry of everyday Nigerians. The food court (formerly the prison’s kitchen) is a fine place to try out some of the mouth-watering local dishes: jollof rice, fish pepper soup, pounded yam and vegetables.   

Explore the city’s Brazilian ties

In addition to the colonial-era buildings on Lagos Island, the character of Lagos' cityscape is shaped by 19th-century Brazilian-style architecture. After Afro-Brazilians liberated from enslavement sailed back to West Africa en masse from the 1850s onwards, thousands were allocated land in the Popo Aguda area – aka the Brazilian Quarter. 

Onikan House is a fine specimen that has been restored by a private concern. Built in 1940, it is a repository of photographs, maps and charts showing the people and events that shaped Lagos, from its earliest incarnation in the mid-15th century as a sparsely populated commune to its present as a megacity of more than 20 million residents. Highlights include the Eyo room on the first floor and a cute little library in the attic. 

You may pre-book an in-house tour, which will take you in a danfo (mini-bus painted in the yellow-and-black, the official color of commercial transport in Lagos) and stop at some of the important heritage sites on Lagos Island, including the Afro-Brazilian Cultural Center. It is where surviving descendants of the returnees have made a modest attempt to preserve the memory of their forebears. 

Mingle with royalty in Downtown Lagos 

Lagos may be a cosmopolitan city, but it is also a deeply traditional society. Isale Eko (Downtown Lagos) was first settled by Awori fishermen and farmers in the 15th century, and it is here that the first royal family was installed in the 1630s. Iga Idugaran, the palace of the king of Lagos, was built in the early 18th century; the settlement that has grown around it since then is a labyrinth of densely packed multi-story apartment blocks, shrines, palaces and mini recreation centers, so your best bet is to explore on foot. 

Until recently, you could walk into the spacious forecourt of the king’s palace and marvel at not only its architecture and wide ornamental double doors but also cannon guns from the 1850s shelling of the neighborhood by anti-enslavement British naval regiments in the 1850s. Nowadays, it’s fenced off from view, and entry is restricted. 

But not to worry, there are plenty more slices of history and heritage lurking at almost every turn because there are more palaces (locally called Igas) here per square mile than any other locale in the city. Traditionally, Lagos is administered by 69 white-cap chiefs in four different classes: the Akarigberes (royal chiefs), Idejos (land owners), Ogalades (spirituals), and Abagbons (war chiefs). All of them operate under the leadership of the Oba of Lagos. 

Key landmarks worth visiting include the palace of Eletu Odibo, the traditional prime minister; Enu Owa, the shrine at the head of the street, and where every king of Lagos is crowned in a weeklong ceremony; Awe Adimu, enclave of the custodian of the Eyo Festival cult, the highly esteemed cultural identity of Lagos; and Erelu Square, site of the tomb of Erelu Kuti, whose lineage has produced every king ever crowned from the 1740s. If you still have wind in your sails, add the Elegba shrine, Oju Olobun Shrine and Obun Eko, the oldest known market in metropolitan Lagos.

The Isale-Eko House, situated opposite the Iga Iduganran palace, will help facilitate a walking tour of the area if notified in advance. 

Go bird-watching in Lekki

Lekki is the preferred home for rich and famous Lagosians, with multimillion-dollar real-estate developments continuing to spring up. It’s got the trendiest restaurants and bars and an ever-increasing collection of galleries.

If you’re looking to escape the fast-paced tempo of everyday Lagos, visit the Lekki Conservation Center , a 75-hectare (185-acre) patch of unspoiled mangrove. The park’s ubiquitous mona monkeys are noticeable right from the gates and you can get up close to them on the boardwalk. But the highlight of a visit here is walking above the forest on the 401m (1315-ft) canopy walkway. It’s a busy spot for the bird-watching community and other attractions include fish ponds, life-size board games and multiple gazebos scattered across the savanna-type vegetation. 

There’s also Lufasi Park , a wildlife sanctuary on 25 hectares (62 acres) of preserved habitat, a 10-minute drive away on the Lekki-Epe Expressway. Managed as a public-private partnership, its chief attractions are Nora lake, a fern and butterfly garden and a plant nursery, as well as a spot for forest bathing by an ironwood tree. On the way to Epe, don’t miss the architectural masterpiece that’s the Yemisi Shyllon Museum, Pan-Atlantic University's art museum and  one of the most delightful landmarks in the city . 

Explore Badagry’s history of enslavement

Badagry is the crown jewel of Lagos tourism. Situated on the western tip of the state and boasting the most listed heritage sites statewide, it is the most-visited destination for both local and international tourists, all of whom are drawn by its past as a port for the trafficking of enslaved people. 

A typical day tour includes stops at Badagry Heritage Museum, the Brazilian Barracoon, Vlekete Slave Market and Mobee Slave Relics Museum, finished with a slow-paced 2.5km-walk (1.6-mile) along the route taken by enslaved people on famed Gberefu Island to the Point of No Return. Locals visit Badagry for its beaches, African Americans go there to connect with their ancestral origins and South Americans take the trip to explore the shrines, for which Badagry is also famous. 

Badagry is a two-hour drive away from Ikeja, the capital, but the most fun and enjoyable way to get there is via the lagoon waters. Book a Lagos ferry ride from Five Cowries Terminal, or from the privately managed Tarzan, which has operated from its jetty on the island for more than two decades. The journey lasts about 90 minutes and offers the most scenic views of the state’s mangrove vegetation. 

If you’re visiting as a group, local guides can arrange for you to be met by an Indigenous troupe, who will cheerfully welcome and serenade you with dance-inducing Badagry folk songs. 

Badagry is okay to visit any time of the year, but best in August during the annual heritage festival, when it celebrates its pantheon of deities (Vothun and Zangbeto, among them) and diverse traditions. An evening is set aside for the Fitila procession, a reenactment of slave-raiding scenarios in memory of the millions of people taken from these shores during the trans-Atlantic trade of enslaved people. 

This article was first published May 16, 2022 and updated Mar 23, 2023.

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