air compressor trips breaker while running

Is Your Air Compressor Tripping the Breaker: Fix it today

There are two reasons an air compressor can trip a breaker, electrical and mechanical. Most commonly, the motor is pulling too much amperage but before diving into the electrical circuit. Inspect for mechanical issues, such as the pump being stiff or locked up. Inspect bleeder or loader valve. I run into this occasionally, I hate myself when I spend two hours testing circuits, and it should have been a fifteen-minute job replacing a bleed-off valve.

Safety first: safety glasses unplug the compressor. Visually inspect the compressor and surrounding area for obstructions to the mechanical parts of the compressor, such as pulleys, belts, pump, and the motor.

Before You Can Repair Your Breaker concern, let us save you some time by asking a few qualifying questions.

This is the first time plugging in this compressor, and the breaker tripped while running? a) my compressor is new b) my compressor is not new

my new air compressor trips breaker

The most common reason I find circuit breakers tripping with new compressors is too much load from combined amperage draw from multiple devices and tools on one circuit.

Sometimes on new compressors, the easiest way to cure this concern would be to move the compressor to a dedicated circuit large enough to handle the load. Moving the compressor may also identify a week breaker. If the breaker trips on one 15 amp breaker but not the other, The tripped one may be old and worn. I would recommend replacing that worn breaker and move the compressor back to its original location.

STILL, TRIPPING BREAKER?

Your air compressor is tripping the breaker due to untenable current demands that exceed the breaker’s capacity. Several factors can cause your compressor to pull too much power, but we will not waste time testing the compressor. If we determine it is the compressor, It’s new; bring it back.

Before resetting the breaker, find the amp rating on the compressor, be sure that the breaker is large enough to handle all the appliances and tools on that circuit. Take this time to unplug all other devices or tools that may be causing a draw on that circuit. Inspect the outlet that the compressor is now using. Is it lose, or has any signs of overheating? Replace the outlet or repair before going on to the next step.

How to test an unloader valve on an air compressor

To see if a failed unloader valve is the root of the problem, take the following steps:

Unplug your air compressor
Open the tank drain and let all pressurized air escape out of the tank
Plug the air compressor back in
Turn the air compressor switch to “ON,” restarting your air compressor. If the compressor starts, let the system fill.
if the compressor still will not start inspect the pump.
Once the compressor turns off, bleed some air until the motor starts. Replace the valve if the breaker trips while attempting to turn on with a full tank. The cause was the valve not releasing pressure from the cylinder head.

Inspecting an air compressors pump for mechanical concerns

To see if a failed pump is the root of the problem, take the following steps:

unplug the compressor
remove the cover plate or belt guard
turn the pump by hand it should spin freely

If the pump is locked or hard to turn, It time to replace the pump

If the pump turns freely its time to test the electrical circuit.

Disclaimer: Self-diagnosing air compressor concerns may not be a simple problem. If you are not familiar with electric motors or circuitry, then you may need to take your air compressor into a shop to have a load test performed and diagnosed. Performing electrical tests is hazardous and should only be performed by a professional.

Measuring the amps that your air compressor produces while in use can be done one of three ways at the breaker box, exposing the wires at the compressor or using a splitter between the outlet and the cord of the compressor.

Click the link below to skip you down the page that best fits your situation:

My compressor is:

220volt single-phase or 220volt three -phase

How to Measure amperage on an air compressor. 110-volt A/C

Note: The compressor should be almost full of air to represent a heavier load on the motor on start and run.

plugging in a splitter into the outlet then plugging the compressor’s cord into the splitter is much like using an extension cord is the easiest way to test amperage.

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measuring the amperage at the breaker box,

Safety glasses! Open the breaker box and turn off the main breaker,

reset the breaker to the compressor and then shut it off, remove the panel to expose the wires and breakers

place amp meter around the load wire, let some air out of the compressor so when you flip the breaker, the compressor turns on.

Watch the meter at start-up and while running.

Was the amperage on start-up and running lower than that of the manufacturer specifications?

2.measuring the amperage draw with an outlet splitter or inline wattage meter. If You have this splitter, it makes life a whole lot simpler. Unplug the air compressor, plug the splitter into the wall plug in the compressor to the splitter. Clip your meter on the splitter. You are ready to start the air compressor. measure the amps at start-up and while running

3.Measuring the amperage draw on the air compressor is my last option. The only reason I sometimes measure amperage this way is I suspect the capacitor, and a quick visual inspection may reveal it needs replacing. All air compressors are different, and the manufacturer uses as little wire as possible, making it sometimes challenging to expose and separate wires. Once you have gotten a location to clamp the meter. Start the compressor and watch the amps at start-up and while running.

Was the amperage on start-up and running lower than that of the manufacturer specifications?

How to measure amperage on an air compressor. 220-volt A/C

Safety first! Unplug or turn off the breaker, test to make sure power is off. Inspect all wire connections on the compressor. Removing cover plates to expose the wires will provide a place to use your amp meter.

I always recommend measuring 220 Amperage at the Breaker box. All connections, including the ones at the breaker, need an inspection.

220-volt has one common or neutral lead and two load wires measuring 110 volts. It is also possible it will have a ground wire. Place the amp meter around one of the two load wires. Start the compressor and let it run until it shuts off.

Note the amperage. Move your meter to the second load wire.

Bleed air from the system until the compressor starts and repeat the procedure.

If you are dealing with a new compressor and producing more amps than the manufacturer’s specifications, return it to the store. Brandnew compressor failure is more common than you would think.

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(yes)If you Verified that the amperage draw is lower than the factory specifications and that of the breaker. The tripped breaker may be old and worn. Is it Possible to move the compressor to another circuit with the same amperage rating? Cycle the compressor on that circuit if there is no problem with that breaker. I would recommend replacing the worn breaker.

(no) A faulty capacitor is the most common cause for compressor tripping a breaker. Some compressors have two capacitors, and some have only one.

How to test an air compressor capacitor. with video

Safety First: Wear safety glasses disconnect power, and make sure power is not present.

Remove the cover to the capacitors. One capacitor will be the start capacitor. The other will be the run capacitor. Ratings and percentages are printed on the side of all capacitors. If it is not legible, there will be no way to test the capacitor. I usually replace capacitors that look distorted in any way, and capacitors are cheap enough that the cost is negligible compared to labor or a comeback.

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Caution: A Capacitor can store a deadly D/C discharge!

With an isolated Scew driver, touch the top leads together on the capacitors. Discharging them eliminates the chance for shock.

Now that it is safe to handle the capacitors, remove them and look at the side of the capacitor; take note of the micro-farad range. The format will read something like(540-630µf) or (64µf + – 6%) but not those exact numbers, and This micro-farad range is the tolerance the motor needs to start and run under random loads generated by the compressor. In the first example (540-630µf), when testing the capacitors, the micro-farad range should fall between those readings. In the second example (64µf + – 6%), you must first do some math. 64×0.06=3.84 round up to the next highest round number equals 4.0 64 minus four equals 60 and 64 plus 4 equals 68

in this example, the capacitors range is between 60µf and 68µf.

Set your meter to this symbol -)|- or the µf. Connect the leads and measure the micro-farads. If the reading falls between the variance, the capacitor is good. In this example, the reading reads 61.2 µf the capacitor is within tolerance. And we would move on to the next step or the next capacitor. Replace the capacitor if it is out of range.

Is your air compressor the cause of your breaker tripping #weakbreaker

If you plugged the compressor into another outlet and the breaker did not trip, or you measured the amperage draw during use and the beakers ratings are above that witch the compressor is drawing, chances are the breaker is weak or there is a loose wire in that circuit. inspect the circuit for loose wires and replace the weak breaker.

10 Reasons Why Your Air Compressor Keeps Tripping the Breaker

Few things are as frustrating as trying to use your air compressor only to have your circuit breaker trip – especially if it happens over and over again. To make matters worse, there are numerous possible causes, many of which can be difficult to diagnose. So this article will cover the many possible reasons your air compressor is tripping your circuit breaker, how to diagnose them, and what to do about them.

A word on circuit breakers, immediate or delayed breaker trip, reason #1 your circuit is overloaded, reason #2 faulty circuit breaker or wiring issue, reason #3 short-circuit/failed capacitor/loose wiring in compressor, reason #4 dirty air filter or cooling components, reason #5 low oil/too much oil, reason #6 extension cord/power strip, reason #7 clogged cylinder, reason #8 damaged/improperly tensioned belt, reason #9 failed unloader valve or check valve, reason #10 faulty pressure switch, air compressor keeps tripping breaker conclusion, air compressor tripping breaker faq’s.

A circuit breaker is a switch designed to protect an electrical circuit (and the devices drawing power from it) from damage due to faults, shorts, or excessive current. They are located in your electrical distribution board (aka breaker box). When an electrical anomaly or overload is detected, the breaker will automatically “trip,” cutting off power to the circuit.

This gives you some idea of what’s going on when your air compressor trips the breaker – it’s usually due to an overload or electrical fault of some kind.

The first thing to keep in mind when troubleshooting a circuit breaker trip is when the breaker trips. Does it happen as soon as you turn it on or after it’s been running for a few seconds or more? The answer may point you in the direction of the root cause. That being said, some issues may cause either an immediate or delayed trip.

With that in mind, we’ll examine the possible causes in each scenario separately.

Air Compressor Trips The Breaker As Soon As It Starts

First, let’s look at what might cause your air compressor to trip the breaker immediately on startup. ( Note: this means when you initially turn it on, not when the pump kicks back on automatically during use – we’ll explore that scenario in the next section. )

Before looking at the air compressor itself, it’s best to rule out issues with your circuit. One of the most common causes of a tripped circuit breaker is a simple overload of the circuit. If you have multiple devices plugged into the same circuit, turning on your air compressor may simply put it over the edge – air compressors tend to draw a lot of power when the motor starts up. This issue may not always occur immediately on startup and may be accompanied by flickering/dimming lights.

Solution: Find out what other appliances or lights are on the same circuit and try unplugging other devices or plugging your compressor into another circuit with fewer (or no) other devices or lights connected to it – the closer to the breaker box, the better. If this solves the problem, the likely cause was an overloaded circuit.

The issue may also be with the breaker itself or a wiring issue somewhere else in the circuit. Breakers can wear out over time, so if you have very old breakers, this may be the issue. When a circuit breaker trips it can be from a loose or damaged wire, whether in the breaker box, outlet, or compressor power cord – or anywhere in between. A damaged extension cord may also be to blame (more on extension cords later).

Solution: Inspect visible cords for damage. If using an extension cord, try plugging directly into the wall instead; if the compressor power cord is damaged, you may need to take it to a professional for repairs. Test the circuit for continuity using a multimeter, or replace the breaker. This can be dangerous, so if you’re not comfortable and familiar with electrical work, don’t hesitate to hire an electrician.

If the circuits are fine and aren’t being overloaded, you may have a short in your compressor. This can be caused by a loose electrical connection, failed capacitor , or shorted motor windings (the coiled copper wires on a motor). Any of these issues can create an overdraw of amps, which will cause the breaker to trip.

Solution: With the compressor turned off and unplugged, check all electrical connections in the compressor head and tighten if necessary (your user manual should have instructions on how to do this). If this doesn’t solve the problem, you’ll have to test the motor windings and capacitor(s) to ensure they’re working properly. Again, unless you have experience with this, you’re probably better off taking it to a motor/compressor repair specialist to have this done.

In some cases, the motor or pump may simply be on its last leg, particularly if it’s very old. If so, you’ll likely be better off replacing the whole compressor.

Air Compressor Trips Breaker After Running for a Few Seconds (Or Longer)

It’s typically more common for an air compressor to trip the breaker after running for a short time or as the motor kicks on a second time to maintain pressure in the air tank. Let’s look at the possible causes of this.

If your compressor’s air intake filter is clogged with dirt and dust, it can strain the motor, causing it to draw more amperage than normal. If this excess power draw exceeds the breaker’s capacity, it will trip the breaker. Similarly, if the cooling fan intake grate or any other air pathways are clogged with gunk, the motor may overheat and cause the breaker to trip.

Solution: Clean or replace the air intake filter. Clean any other air pathways or cooling apparatus such as intake vents and cooling fins (compressed air and a microfiber cloth work well). Run the compressor again to make sure the problem is solved.

If your compressor is oil-lubricated, make sure it has the correct amount of oil in it. Too much or not enough oil can both cause the pump to struggle and overdraw power, resulting in our air compressor tripping the breaker

Solution: Check the oil level to ensure that it’s right where it should be according to the instructions in your user manual. Add or drain oil accordingly and try to run it again. If oil has entered your air chamber you may need to wait a day or so to let it drain back down into the sump.

Air compressors and extension cords don’t get along very well. Most extension cords aren’t rated for the amperage draw of compressor motors, which means the motor will be underpowered. This can cause the motor to overheat and trip the breaker. The same goes for power strips – and if several devices are plugging into the same strip, it can overload the circuit.

Solution: Plug the air compressor directly into a wall outlet or use an extension cord that’s rated for your compressor’s amperage (and the shorter, the better). In general, it’s always better to use a longer air hose instead of an extension cord.

If one or more of the pump cylinders has become contaminated with grit or rust, the piston(s) may not be moving freely, which can result in overheating or overdrawing of power. This can also occur with rotary screw-style compressors.

Solution: If possible, try to crank the motor drive by hand (with the unit unplugged). If it’s stiff or stubborn, the issue may be a clogged or corroded cylinder or mechanical element inside the pump. You’ll likely need to have this repaired by a professional. In some cases, you may need to replace the pump, compressor head, or entire compressor.

If your compressor uses a belt drive system, the issue may simply be that the belt is worn out or not tensioned correctly and is putting undue strain on the motor.

Solution: Inspect the belt for wear and tear; check for proper tension. Replace or re-tension the belt per your user manual’s instructions.

An unloader valve is a crucial component of an air compressor. When the tank reaches its pressure limit and the pump stops, the unloader valve releases any air trapped in the air chamber above the piston. If this valve malfunctions, the air will remain trapped and increase the load on the motor when it restarts to maintain tank pressure. This increased load can cause a spike in amperage draw and trip the breaker.

Similarly, compressors have a check valve that prevents air in the tank from flowing back into the air chamber. If this malfunctions (stays open), air from the tank will reverse course into the air chamber and overload the piston – again, possibly causing a tripped breaker.

Solution: Unplug your compressor and drain all of the air out of the tank. Then, plug it back in and turn it on with an empty tank. If the breaker trips while the tank is filling, it’s likely the check valve. If it doesn’t trip until the pump kicks on a second time (to maintain tank pressure), it’s most likely the unloader valve. In either case, the solution is to replace the valve in question.

If the breaker trips as the pump restarts to maintain tank pressure, another possible cause is a faulty pressure switch. When the tank is drained to a certain level, the pressure switch sends a signal to the motor, telling it to kick back on and pump more air into the tank.

If the contact terminals inside the pressure switch are worn or loose, it may create a short-circuit that trips the breaker.

Solution: Unplug the compressor and drain the air tank completely. Remove the cover on the pressure switch to expose its internal components (be very careful – you’ll be exposing live contact terminals that can shock you). Plug the compressor back in and turn it on, keeping an eye on the terminals. If you see any arcing or sparks, you have a faulty pressure switch. In this case, simply replace the pressure switch.

As you can see, there are numerous reasons your air compressor might be tripping the breaker. But with the help of this guide, you should be able to solve the problem with a little investigation and experimentation. However, always follow the safety precautions detailed in your compressor’s user manual and never attempt tests or repairs that you’re not comfortable with – especially where electrical components are concerned.

Can a bad compressor trip a breaker?

A bad compressor can trip your breaker. One that has trouble starting will pull more electricity than normal. And sometimes more than the breaker can handle. Which in turn would trip your breaker.

What is a common problem fault on an air compressor?

A few of the most common problems on air compressors are broken parts, oil leaks and air leaks. Each of these may cause your compressor to stop running or to not be able to start.

How do I stop my air compressor from tripping the breaker?

The first thing to check when trying to stop your air compressor from tripping the breaker is if the circuit you are using has enough amps to handle the compressor. If it does not have enough, move it to a dedicated circuit large enough to handle the draw your compressor is pulling.

Can An Air Compressor Be Laid Down or Stored on Its Side?

Air compressor types compared (pancake, hotdog, twin stack, vertical).

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Why Does My Air Compressor Keep Tripping the Breaker?

Written by Edwin Jones / Fact checked by Andrew Wright

Does your air compressor circuit breaker trip every time you turn it on? Do you want to know how to stop air compressor from tripping breaker?

There are many factors why your air compressor trips your breaker. Additionally, each factor that affects the air compressor also has different types of solutions. So to fix this, you need to understand some of the problems it may encounter, thus causing the tripping.

Read on to find out the answer to “why does my air compressor keep tripping the breaker?” and how you can troubleshoot it.

Table of Contents

1. Shorted Air Compressor

2. damaged or shorted wire, 3. high power draw during start-up, 4. clogged condenser coil, 5. not enough or too much freon, 6. damaged condenser motor, 7. damaged contactor, 8. dirty air filter, 9. grounded disconnect switch, 10. faulty circuit breaker, possible factors.

Troubleshooting an air conditioning compressor can be challenging to do so. You need to trace the source of the problem, which is mainly under the purview of professionals. However, even DIYers can learn a thing or two to do their own checks.

Safety first: Before starting with your inspection, take precautions, especially when working with electricity. It’s best to disconnect the airconditioner’s main power before doing anything.

To give you an idea about the factors that affect your air conditioning compressor and breaker, these are some common problems that you might encounter. There are also included tips that can help you repair it quickly and easily. But if you’re not sure of what you’re doing, leave it to the professionals!

The most common reason for circuit breaker trips is a shorted air compressor. Sometimes, the air compressor trips breaker immediately, but sometimes it makes a noise for a moment before it trips its dedicated breaker.

Check the line and terminal of the air compressor with your multimeter. However, to test if the real short is your compressor, disconnect it from the circuit then turn on the affected breaker. If the breaker does not trip, then the compressor is the problem. In that case, you need to find a professional to look at it.

Furthermore, here is a detailed guide about breaker size for air compressors if you needed!

There is the possibility that the wire insulation connecting the air compressor to the breaker might be damaged. It could be because of animal bites, like mice, or simply due to aging. If this happens, it may short if it accidentally contacts other cables.

You should check the air compressor’s cable, starting from the disconnect switch up to the circuit breaker panel. If you find a damaged wire, repair it using wire and terminal connectors. You can find a good pair in the top-rated wire connector article so you can find a suitable wire connector to help you with your repair.

If your air compressor tripping breaker on startup, or if your lights dim or fluctuate for a few seconds every time you turn it on, it means that it has a high power draw. This high power draw might exceed your circuit breaker’s capacity, leading to a trip.

The best thing you can do about this problem is install a hard start kit containing a relay and a hard start capacitor. It can help drop the amp requirement by up to 50% for every startup. Check this guide to know how many amps an air compressor uses!

A clogged condenser coil can also cause an increase in amp requirements. If the air that goes to the air compressor is blocked by too much dirt, the fan will have to work harder, increasing its power draw.

To clean it, spray the coil with water using a water hose from the inside out. However, be careful while doing this, as too much force from your pressurized hose might damage the coils.

Freon levels may also be a reason your circuit breaker trips. When the freon in your air compressor does not match the manufacturer’s requirement, this can cause the unit to malfunction, therefore causing the trip. Unfortunately, you need a technician to check it and see if it’s the actual cause of your issues.

If your air compressor runs slow then trips breaker, check your condenser fan if it’s stuck or doesn’t rotate as fast. That could mean your condenser motor is damaged. This is because the fan draws a lot of power to cool your unit, which it doesn’t do well because of the damage.

A contactor is the one that controls the voltage of your air compressor. If the voltage is uneven for both terminals, it may result in tripping your circuit breaker. Test the voltage with a multimeter to see if you get voltage fluctuations. However, be careful during your testing as you’re dealing with live power.

A dirty air filter can also cause breaker trips. Like a dirty condenser coil, a dirty air filter can reduce airflow, thus requiring the fan to work harder.

Furthermore, the air filter prevents dirt from coming into the air pump. If it’s too dirty, it could fail and let contaminants into the pump itself, leading to expensive repairs. Change your air filter when you see that it is dirty.

A grounded disconnect switch may lead to a short circuit. It is also dangerous as it’s typically attached to the metal casing, thereby increasing the risk of electrocution. Regularly check the disconnect switch terminals and replace them immediately if you see any damage, like scorch marks.

If you’ve checked all the factors above and your compressor keeps tripping breaker, you may have a faulty circuit breaker. Call a professional electrician to check if your breaker is defective.

However, if you also see some scorch marks in your circuit breaker, immediately replace your breaker before it gets worse.

Note: Before troubleshooting your equipment, turn off your circuit breaker or pull out your disconnect switch. It ensures that no current flows into your air compressor line and keeps you safe from electrocution. You could also watch this video by Word of Advice TV so you can have a better idea of how to troubleshoot your air compressor.

All of the factors discussed above are some of the most common reasons air compressors cause breaker trips. If you’re experiencing the same problem, you can go through them one by one and see which one affects your unit. Still, if you’re unsure of what you’re doing, it’s best to call a professional electrician.

That way, you and your property can remain safe.

So, did you find the answer to why does my air compressor keep tripping the breaker? If you have additional questions regarding your air compressor unit, leave them in the comments section below.

I am Edwin Jones, in charge of designing content for Galvinpower. I aspire to use my experiences in marketing to create reliable and necessary information to help our readers. It has been fun to work with Andrew and apply his incredible knowledge to our content.

Air Compressor Troubleshooting Chart, Guide And PDF

Air compressors can occasionally run into issues that affect their performance. Troubleshooting these problems can save you time and money, and ensure your air compressor runs efficiently.

The process of troubleshooting an air compressor involves a systematic examination of the device to diagnose any issues related to its operation.

In this guide, we will share a complete air compressor troubleshooting chart, so you can quickly diagnose and fix any problems with your air compressor.

4. Check valves and gaskets:

If your air compressor isn’t producing enough air pressure, the first thing to check is the intake valve. If the intake valve has become clogged or damaged, it can cause a decrease in air pressure and performance.

Air Compressor Troubleshooting Topics:

– Air Compressor Troubleshooting Chart – Air Compressor Troubleshooting PDF – How Do I Troubleshoot My Air Compressor? – What Is The Common Failure In Compressor? – How Can I Make My Air Compressor More Efficient? – What Is The Best Way To Maintain An Air Compressor? – What Causes An Air Compressor To Stop Working? – What Causes An Air Compressor To Overheat? – What Are The Failures Of Air Compressor? – What Are Some Tips For Troubleshooting Air Compressor Problems? – Frequently Asked Questions – Final Words

Air Compressor Troubleshooting Chart

This guide to air compressor troubleshooting and maintenance should help you keep your system in top-notch condition.

However, if any issues arise that are too complex for you to handle on your own, it’s best to contact a professional for help.

Experienced technicians can quickly identify the problem and provide assistance with repairs or maintenance, ensuring that your air compressor is running smoothly and efficiently.

Air-Compressor-Troubleshooting-Chart-infographics

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About Ivan Sanchez

Ivan Sanchez is a passionate blogger, traveler and certified Mechanic and moreover owns a Mechanic Shop in Norway too. He loves Painting Cars, Fixing them and a lot more. His father had a shop too where he used to sell Air Compressors, that's where Ivan learned about it and now reviewing some top-notch air compressors through this blog for you.

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Air Compressor Keeps Tripping Reset? (We Have a Fix!)

There is nothing quite as frustrating as your equipment quitting while you’re trying to complete a project. Have you ever been working and suddenly your air compressor trips to reset? Before calling it quits yourself and buying a new air compressor, there are a few things to check that might solve the problem.

If your air compressor keeps tripping reset, it’s doing so because it’s overheating. This might be because your power supply is not large enough to power the compressor. It might also be that the compressor is overheating from running for too long. Lastly, the centrifugal switch may not be functioning properly.

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A Reset Button’s Purpose

A reset button on an air compression is also known as a thermal cut or safety switch. It can be located on the end or the side of your compressor. In some cases, it’s located inside the wiring of the motor.

The reset button is there for your safety. Its main purpose is to automatically turn off the air compressor’s power when it overheats. If a compressor were to overheat without the presence of a reset button, the motor would be damaged. If your air compressor is tripping, it’s because it’s too hot.

Air Compressors

Using a gas engine or an electric motor as its source of power, an air compressor continuously sucks volumes of air from the atmosphere. It then compresses or squeezes that air into a tight space in order to make the volume smaller and increase its pressure . The high-pressure air is moved to a receiving tank which then powers the equipment.

Three Basic Types

The three basic types of air compressors are as follows:

A reciprocating compressor has a cylinder with a piston inside which squeezes the air.
A rotary screw compressor compresses the air with a spinning spiral screw of steadily diminishing volume.
A centrifugal compressor has an impeller that rotates. The impeller transfers momentum to the air which then compresses it.

Any one of these types of compressors may trip your reset button if the power supply isn’t large enough , the compressor has been running for too long, or the centrifugal switch is getting stuck.

Not Enough Power

If you’re powering your air compressor with an extension cord or power bar, therein lies your problem. The power bar or extension cord may be too small to allow the proper flow of power.

By restricting the power through a smaller wire, the compressor motor can’t get a sufficient amount. This causes the motor to overheat which causes the thermal cut out to shut it down.

What’s the Fix?

Make sure your compressor is plugged directly into the wall outlet. A power outlet of 20 amps or more is best.

Running the Compressor Too Long

A compressor duty cycle is the length of time pressurized air can be delivered by the compressor. Typically, a duty cycle is between 10-15 minutes. If you run the compressor longer than the duty cycle allows, the compressor will overheat and trip to reset.

It’s likely that you will need to use your air compressor for longer than 15 minutes at a time. If that’s the case, you’ll have to take breaks in between uses. Run it for 10 minutes, and then, let it sit for just as long before running it again. This allows the engine enough time to cool so it won’t overheat too quickly during your next use.

Sticking Centrifugal Switches

The majority of air compressors have what is called a centrifugal switch. The centrifugal force caused by a rotating shaft (usually a gas engine or electric motor) activates the centrifugal switch.

If you think of it in terms of a car, the centrifugal switch is like first gear. It energizes the start-up windings. Once the compressor motor reaches ¾ of its RPM, it switches gears from the motor windings to the run windings.

Over time, the centrifugal switch can shift out of adjustment, causing it to get stuck in one position. If the centrifugal switch gets stuck in the open position, the windings won’t shift properly. The start windings can’t withstand the heat of the compressor’s full RPM, which will cause the compressor to overheat.

Depending on your comfort level and knowledge of centrifugal switches, you can adjust it yourself or replace it.

First, you want to make sure the points on the contact plate are in the open position. If they’re not, bend the circular spring flat so the points are no longer in contact. If the points are welded shut, then the contact plate needs to be replaced.

If there is light pitting on the surface of the points, you can sand them gently with 400 grit sandpaper. Larger deformities will create an unusable condition, so the contact plate must be replaced.

Tripping the Circuit Breaker

Occasionally, the problem may be bigger than the compressor itself tripping. What happens if you reset your air compressor only to trip your circuit breaker? There are a few things you can check to troubleshoot this problem.

Unloader Valve

If the unloader valve isn’t working, it might be the cause of the compressor’s malfunction. Sometimes, some of the compressed air gets trapped over the cylinder piston. That air adds to the load on the motor, potentially forcing it to pull too much power. This can trip a breaker or blow a fuse.

To find out if this is the issue, shut off the tank and unplug it. Then, drain all of the air from the tank. This will relieve the pistons of any excess pressure, allowing the tank to start up normally.

It’s important to occasionally inspect and clean the unloader valve to avoid trapping air over the pistons. If the problem continues, the unloader valve may need to be replaced.

Pressure Switch

It’s a little more unlikely, but a possibility is that your pressure switch shorted out. To find out if this is the issue, take the following steps:

Unplug the compressor.
Drain the tank and take off the cover.
Restart the breaker system.
Watch for signs of sparking or arcing. If you notice this, the pressure switch is your problem.

After many uses, motors get worn. Loose capacitor wires, worn windings, and other general wear in a motor can cause breakers and fuses to blow. If you’ve been running your compressor on the same motor for many years, it’s time to change it out.

Check out our guide: What Size Breaker For An Air Compressor?

Are Your Air Compressor Vents and Filters Clear?

Sometimes, when your air compressor cannot correctly vent itself, it can cause the compressor to continually reset so that the device does not become overheated and damaged. While running the air compressor for an extended time can certainly cause the unit to overheat, clogged vents and filters can also make the compressor overheat even more.

When the air vents and filters are clogged, the machine has to work harder than normal to pull in air from the outside. When the pump and motor are overworked, they can trigger the reset switch. Be sure always to clean the vents and filters on your air compressor and ensure there is no debris, hair, dust, or lint interfering with the machine’s ability to pull in outside air. Part of your routine maintenance on your air compressor should consist of routinely cleaning the vents.

Is Your Air Compressor Properly Maintained?

Sometimes, poor maintenance can cause your air compressor to reset continually. This fact is because there may be a mechanical issue within the air compressor that is causing the reset switch to trip before the tank is full.

To ensure that your air compressor is well maintained, you’ll want to perform a routine inspection about every six months to ensure that all the fittings, valves, and gaskets are in good working order. If your air compressor is continually resetting, you may have an issue with a broken pressure valve or possibly a broken gasket. Changing the valve or the gasket will help the compressor reset only when needed and help it maintain appropriate pressure.

Summing It Up

The reset feature on an air compressor is very important for your safety as well as the compressor’s motor. When the compressor overheats, the reset button will automatically shut it down to avoid hazardous heat levels.

To avoid tripping your air compressor to reset, make sure you’re taking breaks while using it to allow the compressor’s motor to cool. Check that the unit is plugged directly into the wall so that enough power can flow to the compressor. Inspect the centrifugal switch to ensure that it’s working properly and not getting stuck in one position.

It can be frustrating when the air compressor keeps tripping in the middle of a project, but remember, it’s for your protection. Hopefully, one of these solutions will fix the problem so that you can get back to using your air compressor peacefully.

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Brigid Levi is a wife, mother, and freelance writer who enjoys a good DIY project and creating beautiful spaces within her home. From cleaning and organization hacks to home decor ideas, she loves helping people in their quest to turn a house into a home. Her hobbies include pretending to be Joanna Gaines while updating her home with her husband and performing in local theater productions.

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Solving the dilemma: why is my air compressor keeps tripping reset?

Are you having trouble with your air compressor? Is it tripping when you turn it on, or every few minutes after running for a certain period?

We’ve all been there – it’s a frustrating experience and can be costly! But don’t worry, let us help you get to the bottom of why your air compressor keeps tripping and what you should do to reset the problem.

Several causes may lead to this issue, such as overloading, improper installation, improper wiring, insufficient power supply, etc. It’s important to run through each potential cause and make sure that you take into account all potential variables to find a solution.

In this article, we’ll discuss the various causes of air compressor breaker tripping and how to combat the problem so that you can use your air compressor without any further issues.

So keep reading if you want to get back up and running in no time!

1 What is an air compressor reset?
2 Common causes of air compressor tripping
3 Troubleshooting tips for air compressors
4 How to fix a faulty pressure switch
5 How to test your air compressor
6 Tips for recognizing and preventing potential issues
7 Air compressor keeps tripping reset? (We have a fix!)
8 Is your air compressor properly maintained?
9 Where is the reset button & what does it look like?
10 Conclusion
11.1 What could be causing my air compressor to trip circuit breakers?
11.2 What should I check if my air compressor trips the breaker?
11.3 What safety measures should I take when dealing with electric issues?
11.4 Air compressor keeps tripping reset? (We have a fix!)
11.5 Are your air compressor vents and filters clear?
11.6 Is your air compressor properly maintained?
11.7 Where is the reset button & what does it look like?

What is an air compressor reset?

If you’re wondering why your air compressor keeps resetting, first, you’ll need to understand what an air compressor safety switch is. In short, it’s a safety feature designed to protect the compressor in the event of an overload or power surge.

When this happens, the air compressor reset button can be used to switch off the power supply and allow the motor to cool down before being restarted.

The problem with this is, while the safety switch can prevent further damage to the motor and compressor, it won’t fix the underlying issue that caused the reset in the first place. That’s why it’s important to identify what is causing your air compressor to trip or reset to avoid future trips or resets.

The major causes of air compressors tripping can include:

Not enough airflow (blocked filters)
Not enough oil levels
A motor fault or freeze up
An electrical surge or overload of current

What’s the purpose of the air compressor reset button ?

Let us start by talking about the air compressor reset button. A thermal overload switch or thermal cutout switch is a device that automatically shuts off the air compressor’s power when it overheats.

The air compressor reset button is usually located at the back of the compressor or in its electrical wiring. The air compressor reset button protects the engine from being destroyed in case it becomes overloaded. It also causes air compressors to stop snoozing when it gets hot.

Common causes of air compressor tripping

A motor issue might be one of the most frequent causes of your compressor’s recurrent trips. Usually, gas engine difficulties are brought on by a damaged fan, a loose electrical connection, or even a motor fault.

In some cases, you may need to completely replace the motor.

Tripping might also result from issues with the air compressor’s cooling system . Your machine may trip and shut off if it cannot properly cool itself. Low oil levels in your system or blocked filters obstructing airflow might be the reason for this.

If the unloader valve fails , part of the pressurized air in the tank may become trapped above the cylinder piston. The air then increases the total load on the motor, perhaps forcing it to draw too much power and blowing the fuse or tripping the breaker.

The duty cycle of a compressor is the amount of time the compressor can deliver compressed air. Normally, a duty cycle lasts between 10-15 minutes. If you run the compressor for a longer time than the duty cycle allows, it will overheat and trip to reset.

The duty cycle is vital, and it works on the premise that for every 10 minutes of work , you should have 10 minutes of rest . If you don’t have a user manual, you may find out the duty cycle of your compressor by getting in touch with the manufacturer.

Most air compressors include centrifugal switches . Centrifugal switch-driven motors activate the centrifuge. If one thinks about cars, then centrifugal switches are the same in first gear: it revs up the momentum of a startup.

After a compressor motor hits 34 rpm , the gear shift is made by the motor windings in the drive windings. Often the centrifugal switch is left out of the adjustment and can remain locked in one location. If a centrifugal switch remains open, the motor windings cannot properly move.

Over time, the centrifugal switch can shift out of adjustmen t, which causes sticking centrifugal switch.

If the centrifugal switch were to get stuck in an open position, then the windings won’t shift properly .

Finally, overloading your air compressor is a common reason it may be tripping on and off. If you’re running too many tools at once, or they require too much power at once, your machine may not be up to the task and trip out as a safety switch.

Troubleshooting tips for air compressors

When it comes to fixing the issue of why your air compressor keeps resetting, there are a few troubleshooting tips you can benefit from. To make sure you’re doing everything right here is what you should do:

Unplug the air compressor power bar and make sure that it is turned off. Then, open up the unit and check for dirt and debris. Clean out any buildup found in the unit with a brush or compressed air canister.
Test all connections. To check for problems with wiring or other connections inside the machine. If you find that any of them need to be replaced, you must do so as soon as possible to prevent further damage from occurring. It’s common for older air compressors to develop a tank check valve leak .
Check the pressure switch for signs of wear or damage – replace it if necessary. You may also want to try to replace the broken pressure valve and use a multimeter to measure power to ensure it is adequate for your air compressor needs.
Finally, if everything else fails, it may be time to call in a professional!

How to fix a faulty pressure switch

It could be something as simple as your broken pressure valve. A pressure switch’s job is to turn on and off the power supply to the electric motor, depending on the pressure in the air tank.

So, how can you tell if it’s your pressure switch causing this issue? Here are a few signs to look out for:

Motor shutting off while running
The motor won’t start
Motor runs but no air is produced
Intermittent on/off cycling of compressor motors
Pressure gauge readings that don’t make sense

If you’re experiencing any of these problems with your air compressor, it’s time to check if it’s your centrifugal switch . Testing the switch is a simple process , and can save you from purchasing a new motor or paying for an expensive repair. All you need is a multimeter, which you can get from most hardware stores.

Here are the steps:

Unplug the power bar and disconnect all wires from the centrifugal switch.
Set your multimeter range to ohms —the symbol looks like a fishhook. Make sure not to touch any exposed metal parts or terminals during the test process!
Place one probe of multimeter into each terminal of the centrifugal switch
Check that there is continuity when it is in the “on” position and then again when it is in the “off” position (in other words, make sure that there are low resistance levels when switched “on” and higher levels when switched “off”)

How to test your air compressor

If you think you’ve done all the steps to make sure your air compressor doesn’t keep tripping, it might be time to run a few tests.

This will require unplugging all appliances and electronic devices from the power bar and the circuit breaker for the house or unit.

Check the pressure switch.

Isn’t it so frustrating when you have a fully loaded air tank, and you begin operating the air tool , and as the pressure starts to build, the air compressor suddenly trips the circuit breaker and the reset switch is good for absolutely nothing?

Make sure that your pressure switch is set to shift properly . The set pressure should not exceed the range of pressure values stated in the manual; otherwise, it could trip at low pressures.

If it is set too high, simply adjust the range accordingly and test it by running it until its peak pressure point, then resetting the switch.

Check for overheating.

Usually, a gas engine on your air compressor produces a certain amount of heat when running, so any higher than normal temperatures can cause it to overload and shut down.

The duty cycle is crucial, and it operates on the principle that if your compressor has a 50% duty cycle, you should take 10 minutes off for every 10 minutes of work.

To test this, feel around each part of the compressor to see if any spots feel abnormally hot . If so, this could be a sign that there is poor air circulation or something more serious is going on with your electric motor and compressor —it may be time to call a professional.

Test your amps.

You can alsogauge how well your air compressor performs by testing the amps on each component while running. This way, you can get an accurate reading of how much current your system is using and whether anything needs to be serviced or replaced altogether.

Tips for recognizing and preventing potential issues

If you’ve been having problems with your reset switch, then don’t worry — you’re not alone.

But to prevent future issues, it’s important to recognize potential issues before they turn into bigger issues.

Here are some great tips that can help you recognize and prevent potential air compressor issues:

Check for voltage.

Check the power supply for any voltage problems from the power source, such as fluctuating current or voltage irregularities, which can cause tripping, surges, or spikes in power.

Rather than using an extension cord , plug your air compressor directly into a wall outlet. A power outlet of 20 amps or more is even better. In general, it’s always better to use a longer air hose instead of an extension cord .

Adjust settings .

Adjusting settings on your air compressor can also help reduce the chances of tripping the reset switch.

If you have an adjustable centrifugal switch on your unit, adjust its settings accordingly to put less strain on the motor by reducing pressure levels when not in use.

Checking all centrifugal switch belts for proper tensioning is also important — too much tension puts more stress on your compressor and can lead to malfunctions.

Air compressor keeps tripping reset? (We have a fix!)

It’s incredibly frustrating when your air compressor keeps tripping reset, but we’ve got a fix for you.

Before anything else, take a look at your compressor settings. When it has been unplugged or left idle for too long, the pressure switch will be too low, meaning the motor won’t get the necessary air compressor power to start running.

In this case, you’ll want to adjust the centrifugal switch by following the manufacturer’s instructions.

Additionally, regular maintenance on your compressor can save you many headaches in the long run—things like changing out oil and checking the belt should be done at least once a year (or more often, depending on how much use it gets).

Are your air compressor vents and filters clear?

That’s an often overlooked reason why your air compressor might be tripping—but it’s worth checking out.

If your filters and vents are clogged, then it can cause the motor to overheat, ultimately leading to a trip-out. It’s important to be sure all filters, intake vents, and exhaust power outlets on the compressor are clean and that there’s plenty of ventilation around the machine.

If they’re blocked, air won’t move freely around the compressor motor and eventually, your compressor overheats and trips out.

If you find that cleaning the vents doesn’t work, then you’ll want to investigate installing an external fan to ensure steady airflow around the motor and keep it cool.

Is your air compressor properly maintained?

Finally, it’s important to check if your air compressor is properly maintained . Air compressors are machines and, like any machine, components can wear down over time. If you don’t do regular maintenance on your air compressor, it can cause it to trip more frequently than usual.

Some of the most common maintenance tasks include:

Changing the oil
Tightening electrical connections
Checking the centrifugal switch settings
Replacing air filters
Inspecting hoses and piping for leaks or blockages

Doing these things can ensure that your air compressor will continue to work safely and efficiently long-term. If you’re not sure how to perform any of these tasks, a handyman or professional technician can help you out.

So if your air compressor keeps tripping reset, make sure it’s properly maintained before you call an expert!

Where is the reset button & what does it look like?

The reset switch is usually located on the side of the air compressor and is usually red or black. It’s typically marked with a warning sign or the word “reset” to distinguish it from other knobs and buttons.

That said, the place and appearance of the reset button can vary from model to model, so it’s important to make sure you’re looking in the right place.

To do this, check your user manual for specific instructions on resetting your compressor.

If you still can’t find it after that, don’t worry — there are other ways you can troubleshoot your compressor. When in doubt, always consider a certified technician to come and take a look at your equipment.

In conclusion, if you’re having any issues with your air compressor, the first step is to try to diagnose the issue. You might be able to solve the problem yourself, or it might require a repairman that relevant as well if you experience issues with a dehumidifier .

Additionally, it is significant to make sure that your air compressor is properly maintained , as this can also help minimize tripping problems.

Frequently asked questions

What could be causing my air compressor to trip circuit breakers.

There can be a few reasons why your air compressor causing to trip the circuit breaker. It could be caused by a faulty electric motor, overload, excess pressure in the tank, too many amps running through the system, or insufficient power supply .

What should I check if my air compressor trips the breaker?

The first thing to check is if there is any visible damage on the compressor motor, like burning or fraying wires. You should also inspect that all wiring connections are in order and there aren’t any loose wires that might cause an electrical circuit breaker to trip.

Additionally, check an unloader valve, which is a critical component of an air compressor. When the tank reaches its pressure limit and the pump stops, the unloader valve releases any air trapped in the air chamber above the piston.

What safety measures should I take when dealing with electric issues?

Always make sure you unplug the air compressor’s power source before attempting any repairs and wear protective gear like gloves when inspecting electric wiring connections.

The first step is to check for any blockages or kinks in the air hose. If there are none, then you should check the air filter for dirt and debris buildup. If this doesn’t solve the issue, try resetting the circuit breaker. If the problem persists, it may be time to call a professional for help.

Air compressor vents and filters should be regularly checked and cleared of any debris or blockages to ensure proper operation.

Properly maintaining an air compressor is essential for optimal performance , efficiency, and longevity. Regular maintenance can help prevent breakdowns, reduce energy costs, and extend the life of the compressor.

Additionally, properly maintained air compressors can provide reliable, consistent air pressure and air quality, ensuring that tools and equipment operate safely and efficiently.

The reset button on an air compressor is typically located near the motor or pressure switch . It is usually a red button with a small hole in the center.

Read More: Is Your Air Compressor Tripping the Breaker

Considering that most people continue to pay the masters in the service for a consultation, I decided to create my blog.

Compressor Trips The Breaker On Restart

You’ve got a full tank of air. The air tool ramps up nicely and is working well. Then, and as the pressure in the tank drops to the cut in pressure setting, rather than the compressor starting to rebuild the air in the tank, when it tries, the compressor trips the breaker on restart. If it’s a fuse in the circuit instead of a breaker, when attempting to restart, the compressor blows the fuse. The information on this page includes:

-what’s happening when the compressor trips the breaker or burns the fuse on restart?

-what needs to be checked on the air compressor when that happens?

-what are the compressor components involved and how to check them?

What’s happening when a compressor trips the breaker / fuse on restart?

When the air compressor tank is drained down to the cut in pressure level, the pressure switch reacts to the drop in tank pressure, it trips to “passing” (as in, the current now flows to the compressor motor) and the compressor should start and run until the compressor tank pressure has reached the normal cut out pressure setting, at which time the compressor should stop and wait for the tank air pressure to drop to the cut in pressure level again.

At the cut in pressure setting the the current will flow first through the pressure switch and then through the motor start circuit, and for a huge number of different makes and models of air compressor, the current then flows to a start capacitor.

If a particular compressor motor does not have a start capacitor, often that’s a small, sub-fractional motor, and there is sufficient current in the electricity flow to kick that motor into turning.

Larger compressor motors require a “kick start” to get going, as there is not enough power in the circuit to to feed what the compressor motor needs on start up, and that’s called the “inrush current”.

If for some reason the motor cannot start, it will continue to draw power, and may pull enough amperage to exceed the capacity of breaker or fuse and as a result the compressor trips the breaker or fuse on restart.

What are the things on the compressor to check when the air compressor trips the breaker or fuse on restart?

Did the unloader valve work sometimes the unloader valve fails, and as a result, some compressed air is trapped over the cylinder piston. that trapped air adds to the load the compressor motor experiences on start up, and that additional load may be enough to force the motor into pulling too many amps and popping the breaker, or blowing the fuse..

To test for this, unplug the compressor, open the tank drain and drain all the air out of the compressor tank (which you should do after every use of your air compressor as part of the regular preventive maintenance), plug the compressor back in and if your compressor has one, flip the ON/OFF switch to on.

If the compressor starts this time and the breaker doesn’t pop, that suggests that your air compressor unloader valve is not working properly, one of which made by Square-D is shown in the image above, and you need to either fix it or replace it. To be sure, shut off the compressor, drain the tank again, and try to restart it with an empty tank. If the compressor starts easily again, then it’s pretty much certain that it’s the air compressor unloader valve failure that is causing your air compressor to trip the breaker on restart.

Are you plugging the air compressor into a power bar or extension cord? Home use extension cords are notorious for throttling power, as is a power bar. You may be under powering your compressor motor, and the resulting overheated motor may be contributing to the breaker tripping when the compressor starts.

Leave the compressor to cool for 15 minutes or so, and then try plugging the air compressor power cord directly into a wall socket, preferably one that has a 20 amp breaker, and has no other electrical devices using power at the same time as the air compressor is trying to start.

If the compressor starts this time, and after you have used some air and the compressor successfully restarts when the tank pressure drops to the cut in pressure setting, then you’ve nailed down the problem.

As a general rule we suggest that you add air hose to get the compressed air to your work station as opposed to using an extension cord to move the compressor closer to where you want to use compressed air. Nothing gets damaged if it doesn’t get enough air through a long hose. On the other hand, electrical devices are overworked if their power supply isn’t up to what is required leading to electrical maintenance issues.

Is it the pressure switch itself that has failed? Less likely, but still possible, that your air compressor trips the breaker on restart can be cause by a pressure switch that has shorted out.

When the air pressure in the tank drops, a diaphragm inside the pressure switch moves, and ultimately, that moving diaphragm forces the points inside the pressure switch to touch, a circuit is made, and power flows to the compressor motor starting it, and driving the pump to pump more air into the compressor tank.

Turn off or unplug the compressor.

Drain the compressor tank and then close the drain.

With due regard to the presence of live terminals inside the pressure switch, pull the cover off, reset the breaker, and watch inside the pressure switch to see if there is any arcing or sparking when you turn the compressor back on.

Since the pressure switch points should already be touching with the absence of air in the tank, there should not be any arcs or sparks, and if there are, that’s a pretty good indication that you pressure switch may be the problem.

You will need to replace the pressure switch.

Has the compressor capacitor failed?

If the compressor has a start capacitor, or a start / run capacitor, or two capacitors, the failing of one may mean that the compressor will blow a fuse or circuit breaker when attempting to start.

This is what a typical motor capacitor will look like:

The correction of the problem of when the air compressor trips the breaker on restart becomes increasing complex once these earlier tests have been made. One of the more complex tests is that of testing the capacitors.

If useful for you, please follow this link to our page that describe what the capacitors are and about how to test them.

Compressor motor windings shorting? In our opinion the next component that will be suspect when the compressor trips the breaker on restart are the motor windings shorting, or any of the electrical connections inside the motor that may be shorting and the sudden flow of electricity to ground pulls too many amps.

If you have reached this state in your compressor problem diagnosis, and you are not skilled in electrical motors or electrical circuitry, we suggest that you get your compressor motor to an electrical motor shop for a load test to try and determine what, if any, part of the motor is shorting.

These are a few of the typical reasons why an air compressor trips the breaker on restart. If you have experience with other scenarios, why not share them with visitors using the comment box below? If you see a comment and you would like to add to it, please feel free.

It is always helpful if you identify the make and model of your air compressor in any post.

No related posts.

By Ashley Pearce

As a passionate manufacturing and mechanical engineer, I've had my fair share of run ins with air compressors and compressed air systems. With over a decade of experience in the industry, I have both a fresh perspective and time-served hands and mind to help you with your compressor problems (along with our able community!)

Hi, I have an old Husky Air Scout 1.5 gal 135 psi max air compressor that I bought from a friend for cheap. I have used the compressor maybe 25 – 30 times at 100 psi with no problem. I plug the compressor into a wall outlet connected to a 20 amp circuit breaker. last week when I tried to use it, it worked fine for the first 15 inch mower wheel. I shut it off after bleeding the air. (there is a bleeder valve on the front) . When I tried to turn it on again an hour later, It blew the fuse that was in a fuse case on the front. I went to the hardware store and bought a 4 pack of fuses. It blew all four (one at a time) as soon as I turned the compressor on. It never got a chance to compress any air. Put new fuse in. Turn on compressor. Blown fuse immediately. There is no circuit board that I can see. There is a pressure switch (120vac 10 A) in the unit. Can anyone tell me what might be happening?

Hi, is there someone that can help me It is model 919.176841 Craftsman 4hp 20 gallon horizontal air compressor. The problem is it will start and go up to proper tank pressure with no problem. But then if you use the air hose and the pressure drops to around 75, which is normal, it goes to start again, and it barely turns. If I leave it trying, it will kick out the reset on the motor. If I disconnect the big line that comes out of the compressor head, it starts fine. I took off the air filter, and it wasn’t that. I replaced the unloader valve at the switch on the smaller air line. Nothing changed. But, if I push down the little reed valves while it trys to restart, it restarts fine. I just hold down the reed valves with a small screwdriver just long enough for the compressor to get up to normal rpms. Then it runs fine. It will run all day long once it’s started. I used a blow gun attachment to keep bleeding off air pressure while it was running, and it keeps runnning fine and building pressure with no problems. ? I’m stumped here. Please help Thanks -Jim

I am facing the same problem 100 hp fini air compressor tripping the breaker . Checked the motor winding no shortage how can i check step by step found the exact problem

Hello, this website is really helpful! I have an Eagle Silent Series .75-HP 1-Gallon Hot Dog Air Compressor, and am having issues with the breaker tripping while the compressor is running. It happens very sporadically. Sometimes it occurs every few minutes, sometimes every few hours. I have replaced the capacitor on the compressor. From this page, it sounds like it may be an issue with the compressor being underpowered. Besides plugging in directly to an outlet, do you have any suggestions for remedying this issue?

It’s difficult to be certain what the issue may be, Tianna. For example, when the compressors is running, does it run for long periods at a time… hours instead of minutes? If so, could be that the motor is overheating due to it not having time to cool between uses. This relates back to the Duty Cycle, and if you commonly exceed that with a compressor, that’s how the motor reacts. This compressor has a 50% duty cycle, meaning that for every period of time – in 10 minute increments, not hours – the compressor must sit unrunning for an equivalent period of time for it to cool. Could this be the issue?

And if the compressor trips the breaker after it’s going/ pumping out air? Anything on the compressor that would caused that or is it just an overloaded circuit now? Thank you for your help.

Sorry, not clear. Are you saying that the breaker trips after the compressor has started, and is pumping air into the tank? If so, what pressure does it pop the breaker, please. And, what’s the make and model of yours? Thanks.

Hi There I have the Hitachi ED-12 compressor. I was having trouble with the compressor starting and getting up to speed. It would eventually blow a fuse.

I did what was suggested and opened the drain valves and it has no problem getting up to speed right away. I assume that means the capacitors are fine and from what I have read, you need to replace the “unloader valve”? I am not sure where that is in my unit?

Could you be referring to the non-return valve? Item #53 in the pic below? I see on a parts site it says to replace that if you are having these issues.

I got this unit for free and it has been great, I don’t use it that often, but like to have it for winterizing my pool shed and sprinkler system.

I appreciate all your feedback

Hi Chris. I’ve modified your post somewhat to remove many of the off-site links that didn’t really help.

First, you are referring to the EC12 compressor, yes?

You say “I did what was suggested and opened the drain valves and it has no problem getting up to speed right away. I assume that means the capacitors are fine and from what I have read, you need to replace the “unloader valve”? I am not sure where that is in my unit?”. Opening the drain valve removed over-piston air load, and emulates the function of the unloader valve. If opening the tank drain valve worked, the first check is the unloader valve. After the compressor gets going, close the tank drain, and let the air pressure build up to cut out. As the compressor stops on full pressure cut out, liste around the pressure switch (yours appears to have an internal unloader valve) to ensure that there is an quick burst of air from the pressure switch signifying that the compressor has unloaded.

If the compressor unloads, then it’s quite likely that the issue IS the start capacitor being weak.

You say “Could you be referring to the non-return valve? Item #53 in the pic below? I see on a parts site it says to replace that if you are having these issues.”, no, I am not. I am referring to the unloader valve that is part of the pressure switch.

Right, It does hit full pressure and will stop. I dont recall hearing a his release but will check again. Also, is there a “foot valve” that will keep the pressure in the cylinder head as well that might need to be replaced?

Also, can the unloader valve be serviced/cleaned and it looks like on my unit, I have to replace the whole apparatice that houses the valve? is that correct?

Remove the cover (carefully) of the pressure switch, empty the tank, start the compressor, close the tank drain, and monitor the unloader which is a part of the pressure switch on this compressor. If it works, check the start capacitor. See how here: http://fix-my-compressor.com/is-the-compressor-start-capacitor-working/

The “foot valve” you refer to is the tank check valve, and it’s in the fitting where the air line from the pump head reaches the tank. If air pressure stays in the tank after the compressor has stopped and unloaded, it is likely working fine.

i started it up again with an empty taNK. starts no problem and runs but dont shut down it gets to a point that it is working hard then stops and hums, full tank of air. so some pressure regulator switch is the issue for sure.

No, I don’t think so. Check the capacitor, Chris.

Fair enough, but how do I find a discontinued part? Can i just get a same or similar spec capacitor?

The photo shows a 40 micro-farad capacitor, and the voltage. It doesn’t show the spade or connector types on top. As long as you get a new cap with the same ratings, and it fits your compressor, it should work fine.

Okay, I pulled the caps. they seem fine. I was only able to test continuity and they seemed to be fine for continuity.

Here are some pictures. I don’t have a capacitor tester

http://fix-my-compressor.com/is-the-compressor-start-capacitor-working/

how do i find a replacement cap. without going to original OEM spec cap?

What size am I looking for? Granger.ca seems to have them in Canada/.

Hi Chris. Does this page not provide enough info: http://fix-my-compressor.com/finding-a-new-compressor-capacitor/

If not, add a comment. Thanks.

Hi there! Great website and very informative!

Ok I bought a used 20 Gallon Porter Cable C5510 air compressor for cheap. The guy said it runs but trips his breaker every once in awhile. I figure he probably had a weak breaker and I should be good. Got it super cheap so didn’t mind taking the gamble.

Ok. My setup is: – 15A outlet in garage with nothing else connected to it.

When i first install it it was working fine. It would pump up from empty to cut off and then turn on at cut in. Rarely it would trip my breaker.

Fast forward a few weeks, now it constantly trips the breaker.

This is what I’ve done so far: – replaced pressure switch with Condor MDR11 (built in unloaded valve; which does hiss/release pressure, when I turn the switch off) – removed, inspected and tested pressure relief valve – tested the capacitors with a high quality Fluke meter. Both capacitors tested good via capacitance and resistance test. – I clamped the line cable and with the drain valve open I constantly get around 7.5-8 amp draw. When I close the drain valve to add load to the motor, it starts to climb to around 9 amps. I am not able to test further as it will not pump any higher than 30 PSI. – with both the drain valve open and closed, the breaker trips. So doesn’t matter if there is a load or not. – additionally I isolated the AC motor with the pump motor by removing the belt and ran it for 10 minutes and it did not trip the breaker at all. I was getting 5.0 – 5.1 amps constant with this setup. So with that said I really don’t think it’s the AC motor at all. It only trips when I have the pump motor connected.

Furthermore, I did try another outlet and secretly (haha) my neighbour outlet and it still trips the breakers.

Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!

Can you find an outlet wired to a 20 amp breaker and try that? Or, use your meter to check the inrush current draw. I suspect that your power supply is marginal for an older, tired compressor.

Thanks for your prompt response. Unfortunately I do not have any 20 amp circuits at home. I would have to haul it out.

At start up the inrush or starting amperage draw is around 25-30 amps. it does not trip the breaker at that point. it trips after 15-30 seconds, regardless if the tank is empty or partially filled.

Thanks. OK, you’ve cleared everything on the compressor, and the problem persists. So… by deduction, I’m thinking that it must be the compressor, and that it is heating up and creating a short of some kind. I know it didn’t trip the breaker with no load on the motor, but the load increases as the pressure in the tank increases. That’s what I think, and that’s a very difficult thing to nail down. Good luck.

Well I think I got it figured out. Tried 2 things today.

First I took apart the AC motor and inspected the contacts and they we’re dirty so gave it a good polish with sandpaper. Ran the motor with no load and unbelted and amp draw seemed to drop from around amps to around 4.5 amps. Not sure if it made a difference for efficiency or if it’s due to ambient temperatures and conditions vs yesterday. I put everything back together and……… No good! Still tripping the breaker.

So then I then proceeded to the pump motor and took of the cylinder head off and low and behold!!! One of the valve plate reeds is broken!

Hopefully I can source one out locally, if not may have to order it online.

I’ll keep you posted once I replace the reeds…

I just bought a new Harbor Freight McGraw 20 gallon compressor. On a full tank, this morning, while blowing some sawdust, it tried a few times to start, hesitating, then tripped the breaker. My last unit was Central Machinery and it did this from the beginning throughout it’s ONE YEAR life before it failed and I threw it away. All the advice for this problem is always related to older machines with failing parts, never on brand new machines that do this. I don’t want to go through this again. So according to the troubleshooting, I should be looking for a bad check valve on this brand new machine?

Perhaps, but first I’d consider the power supply. Is the supply to the socket where the compressor is plugged in on a 15 amp or 20 amp breaker. Electric motors need higher amperage on start up due to their need of “inrush current” and a 15 amp supply is often marginal once the compressor gets going, but often isn’t enough to deal with the inrush demand of the motor.

willyr, it’s happened again. This time, I used a lot of air blowing and it never kicked on. Almost emptied the tank. Next day,, I was rolling it out to take it back to HF and passed another plug and tried it and it kicked on. So I put it back on the original plug and it also started, but hesitated a lot. My dad says it may be because I have the tool side set to high, at 120 psi. I have since lowered it to 90 psi and am waiting for the inevitable fail, unless that could possibly be why it won’t start or hesitates to start. It hasn’t been tripping the breaker though.

It is the only circuit in my shop that’s not on a 20 amp breaker. Tomorrow I will swap this 15A breaker out with the 20A that runs the lights. That makes more sense. This circuit is for the compressor and any power tools I use, so it needs a beefier breaker, the lights will do fine on a 15A.

You can put it in a 20amp breaker if you have 12-3 wire in the circuit. 14-3 wire will heat up using a 20 amp breaker.

Those were existing breakers, I’ve rewired the shop for 20A since I moved in. Didn’t have a need to change them til now.

I have a Dewalt 4-gallon electric dolly style compressor that works well most of the time. Sometimes though upon start-up the motor starts to run slowly and then trips the breaker. I flip the breaker and try starting again. The motor again starts slow and then will either crank up properly or else trip the breaker again. It does this when fully empty and usually just when it hasn’t been used in a long time. So, it shouldn’t be the unloader valve and I’m plugged directly into the outlet (no extension cords or power-bars). This happens on different outlets on different circuits so not an electrical source issue. As my issue is intermittent , where do I start to diagnose? Thanks

Dave, have a read of this page, I think it may explain what’s happening on your compressor.

hi sir i have an Italian air compressor mod: (CPRC 3200 NS11S MS) and i use it with a Generator but now it wont run!! when i turn it on its run less than one second and the Generator shutdown!!? but its not the generetor coz when i use the generetor for some things ells its work properly!! so thats mean the problem is in the air compressor!! dont know is it circuit breaker or pressure switch!! or some things ell!?

Sanborn 20 gal that runs for around 30 seconds to 2 minutes. Overheats, and will trip the breaker, unless it’s already run for a couple cycles. Then it trips its own overheat safety and needs to be reset. Does not exceed 110 psi unless connected to a 30amp breaker.

Hi Scott. Per the tips on the page, what have you checked so far please?

have Makita MAC5200, with 0 air pressure the compressor will run up to approx 40psi then blow the current overload switch on the compressor. Reset the switch and drain off the pressure and it runs until it gets to around 40psi then blows the current overload again.

Sure Franz. What did you find when you did the checks? If you’re not sure, navigate to here and scroll down to the appropriate page; http://fix-my-compressor.com/air-compressor-problems-and-fixes/ .

I have checked both the run and the start capacitors. The run capacitor 50 uf measures 55 uf and the start capacitor 300 uf measures 343uf. Would either of those readings cause the compressor problem described above.

I have replaced the pressure switch and that did not solve the problem.

If I run the compressor with the drain valve open it will run without stopping. But when I close the valve it builds up pressure and blows the overload switch on the compressor. It will start again but only for a short time before it blows the overload switch.

I am leaning toward buying the run capacitor but not sure that is the problem and they are not cheap.

Hey Franz. The symptoms you are experiencing on your Makita MAC5200 are symptoms developing from an inability of the motor to overcome an issue.

While I am not an electrician, I believe that since the uf readings on your caps exceed the rated output, that suggests that they are fine.

If they are OK, and the tank check valve is not preventing increasing pressure to enter the tank, the results of which would be an overload situation on the motor and it going off on thermal overload, then I would wonder about the pump itself. For example, is the pressure side of the valve plate working properly? If it is not, it may be the issue preventing air entering the tank and back loading the motor causing the overheat.

I’d pull the pump head and have a look at the valves before buying another cap.

My name is Dave. I have this same exact problem with my MAC5200, but I haven’t started to diagnose it yet other than plugging it straight into a 20 amp socket. What would be advisable?

Hi Dave… when you reviewed the other items referred to on the page, what did you find / see / hear?

Craftsman model 919.167312 6HP 30 Gallon. Starts with no load fills to 140 PSI fine. When pressure drops and it tries to restart it trips the breaker. Unloader appears to be working (I can hear it when I shut it off). If I disconnect the unloader tube, the compressor starts just fine. No air leaks out when unloader tube disconnected- full tank with the machine off so I am pretty sure the tank check valve is OK.

Once I hook the unloader tube back up it trips the breaker. if the tank is above 40 PSI and I try to restart.

Please the see troubleshooting page and scroll down to the start / run capacitor pages. If this were mine, I’d be checking the start cap if all else is OK in terms of power supply. Please check and let us know.

05?. Campbell and hausfield 15 gal. Model # starts with hl4. Fills tank to 125psi and shuts down. On restart hums.and trips breaker if sont unplug immediately. Replaced pressure switch unloaded valve check valve and start capacitor. Not on extension cord. No sparking. Does same thing. Please help

Carol, the humming is from the motor. It’s trying to start and cannot and cannot do so against load. That the compressor will start with no load (no air in the tank) and fills to 125 PSI and shuts of normally, suggests that there is no pump i8ssue.

Then, when it tries to restart with air in the tank it cannot. If the start capacitor has been replaced and is working properly, then that points to the motor itself as being the problem.

For example, some compressor motors have a centrifugal switch that will allow the motor to start with no load, and then, as back-pressure from the filling tank increases the motor load, the switch trips to allow the motor to handle that. That’s just one scenario.

I think you need to have the motor checked out.

Just replaced pressure switch. Didn’t work. It does hum when trying to restart but tank full, not empty. I am using extensions cords as built a new shed and need for siding. Will try to figure out what start cap is but the pressure switch was a major job. Took me almost 2 hours. Any suggestions most appreciated.

Campbell.and hausfield compressor

Carol, same answer… “If it’s humming on the restart, it’s also time to check the start capacitor. Does it hum on start with the tank empty. If so, that doubly suggests the start cap is failing. See the page under general troubleshooting on how to test that, if you aren’t sure.”

However, if you are using an extension cord that’s too small for the motor power needed, that, too, will cause a humming motor.

Move the compressor to a plug where you can plug it in without an extension cord. If it works OK, your extension cord is too small a gauge.

Found the capacitor on Amazon. Delivered today and installed but can’t test till 3.(daughter works nights). My concern is it looks dirty.and scratched up.. Cross your fingers.

What looks “dirty and scratched?, the new cap? That being the case, send it back, unless you bought a used one.

Update. Didnt work. Still hums and won’t restart. Get 1 tank of air then trips if I don’t unplug right away. Help. Running out of things to replace. Need for job asap. Should I give up and buy another one.

Hauled it back to garage, not the extension cord. It is a heavy duty. So i filled, let some out and when it tried to restart hummed and was unable to. Pull power, drained and same.thing. From reading your troubleshooting several times (this all above my pay grade), I assume you think it’s the start capacitor. Which I can not seem to find but in the interest.of dumping more money andntume in this wanted to confirm. Thanks so much for your help

You are welcome. Check this page for more information on the motor start capacitor: http://fix-my-compressor.com/is-the-compressor-start-capacitor-working/

Campbell and hausfield compressor from mid 2000 so it’s old. Runs till pressure up, leaks out of uploader valve. Tries to restart but can’t. Replaces uploaded valve. No change. Will tries to restart hums. Strange thing is after unplugging, still makes a noise like shorting for a few seconds. Any help appreciated

Carol, if air is leaking out of the unloader valve when the compressor is stopped, you’ll likely need to clean / replace the tank check valve.

If it’s humming on the restart, it’s also time to check the start capacitor. Does it hum on start with the tank empty. If so, that doubly suggests the start cap is failing. See the page under general troubleshooting on how to test that, if you aren’t sure.

Before you go thinking it’s any of these… I checked on the back of the cover that holds the capacitors and found a lever activated thing that’s plastic and pushes on a thin piece of metal… It rests upon the motor shaft… here the cover was broken causing it to not rest against the shaft and it didnt push the plastic lever against the metal to make electrical connection that goes to your start up capacitor… I glued my cover back together at the mounting screw where it was broken, mounted it and that solved my problem… good luck!

Air compressor issue. 6.0 hp 60 gal tank. Condor Md 11. My compressor will not restart when after being filled it hits the cut in pressure. I replaced the pressure switch and unloader valve. The unloader valve works great when fill pressure has been reached but when compressor hits cut in pressure it labours to start and trips the breaker. I disconnected the unloader valve line and put a manual ball valve on the end of it. If i open the valve when the cut in pressure is reached the compressor will start fine, I close the ball valve and compressor reaches capacity. I open the ball valve again and air purges out and stops. no bleed. Close the valve and open it again when cut in pressure is reached and compressor starts fine, repeat. Could the check valve be the problem, there is no air bleeding from the unloader valve when the tank is full. Thanks

You’ve checked and the unloader actually unloads when the compressor reaches cut out! So if there is no pressure over the piston, why isn’t the compressor starting with a load in the tank? It’s time to check the motor capacitor to find out. See this link for more info.

Thanks willyr, There is no air above the cylinders as I tested by manually purging it before start up. I figured if the capacitor is failing or bad will it just quit all together and not allow the motor to start. Could it just be weak and not giving the full power the motor requires?

Quite likely. You’ll need to test it/them to be sure.

I have an old sears paint compressor model 106.15451, where would I find the unloader valve? It’s tripping the breaker after the pressure falls to refill again. It starts up perfectly when no air in the tank.

Hi Elvis. I can’t see the pressure switch on this compressor, as I have no photo to check. So, is the present unloader on the pressures switch? If so, likely the fasted way to correct this issue is to replace the pressure switch with one that has the same type of unloader. If you’d like to add a photo of your present pressure switch from both sides and bottom, we’ll try to help further. You can add photos as a reply to this thread.

willyr 0 air in tank cold sttart

OK, no air in tank, starts compressor, runs 10 seconds and trips 20 amp breaker, one new capacitor, right? Is there another cap and have you tested it? It’s a 220 Volt motor I presume? Without the belt on, can you turn the pump sheave relatively easily?

120 volt, no belts and yes when i take cover off can spin motor and crankshaft freely. Oh ya has two capacitors one new the other is good so I’m told.

Update July 14/19 – sticker on cover says 5hp 20gal 12o volt plugged into outlet no ext cord it’s a pro air 2 if that helps

Don, did you not write earlier that it was a 5 HP compressor? Seems odd that a 5 HP has a 120 Volt motor? No way 120 V can run a 5HP motor properly. And it is a Devilbiss right, since that’s the page on which you posted originally? Do you have the model number?

Are you plugging it right into the socket or using an extension cord, please? And also, please keep the thread on one page if you would.

Don, I see that you’ve added that it’s a ProAir 2. When I go looking for that model I find that it is Devilbiss that has the ProAir line, but cannot find a ProAir2 on a 20 gallon tank. The specs I’ve seen say that it’s a dual voltage motor, meaning the motor can be powered by 120 or 240 depending on how the motor is wired.

Assuming the condition is a new one, and assuming that you are not using an extension cord or power bar to plug in the compressor, and now knowing that the pump moves freely, my money is on one of the capacitors still not working, or the motor itself.

This page will provide information on how to test the capacitors: http://fix-my-compressor.com/is-the-compressor-start-capacitor-working/

This page will give more info about that: http://fix-my-compressor.com/finding-a-new-compressor-capacitor/

A bad start capacitor can look the same as a bad unloader valve. To differentiate the two,: 1) get the compressor into the situation causing the non-start (i.e. pressure in tank but dropped enough to cause a an attempt to restart). 2) Turn the compressor off and reset the breaker if needed 3) Unscrew the unloader tube (the small one) from the check valve.

If a little air comes out when you do this then stops, your unloader valve probably wasn’t working. If air continues to come out, then your check valve is not working and needs to be cleaned or replaced. If no air pressure came out when you did this then the unloader valve probably is working properly and already did its job.

In the last case, screw the unloader tube back in and try to turn the compressor back on. If it starts normally then it was probably the unloader valve or check valve. If it labors to start and then blows the circuit again then I would look at the start/run capacitor(s). or possibly, shorted windings

Hi great writeup. I have an issue with my compressor where it will only trip the breaker on my generator but when its used on mains power it works flawlessly. Any ideas on that one before I start working through your recommendations above ?

I suspect that the inrush demand of the motor on the compressor exceeds the output capacity of the generator. I don’t believe, if the compressor works well on the mains, that it’s a compressor issue, but rather, an issue of the generator being under-capacity for the demand.

I have a 20 kw disel gen set. My compressor will start but blows breaker at 50 lbs pressure. The motor for compressor gradually powers down greatly as it reaches 50lbs. Am miffed. Help me??

Per the list of items on this page Ray, can you please advise what you have checked?

I have a a DevilBiss manufactured single piston 12 gallon 1hp CRAFTSMAN model number 919.174212. It’s been working great for years now. I’ve changed the oil frequently with Amsoil synth for compressors. I’ve drained the tank and changed the inlet filter and after use I leave the compressor off. It usually doesn’t get much use occasionally filling tires and once in a while running an impact wrench, but that’s all. Resently it started throwing breakers. This model doesn’t have a pressure release motor start valve so that can’t be the problem. It only throws breakers when the tank is full and the pressure goes slightly down from using a tool… it struggles to turn the compressor and then throws a breaker. I tried using a different breaker line. I just changed the starter cap (the old one tested fine on the multimeter, but thought I’d take a chance) but it did fix the problem. Is it the motor? I mean it runs great when there’s zero pressure and fills up the tank easily. Could it be the pressure switch? What the best way to test for that?

You have a great website! Thanks in advance!

Thanks for your kind words. When an air compressor tank has air in it, there is back pressure against which new compressed air has to work to get into the tank. This adds load to the motor making it work harder to try and start. If you are not using ANY extension cord or power bar, your start cap is good, your unloader vent (you likely have a small hole in the line from the pump to the tank which bleeds air all the time the compressor is running and stops when the compressor stops) is open allowing air over the piston to vent, then I would expect the problem is the motor itself, whether something in the motor has failed (centrifugal switch if one, windings shorting, brushes worn if there are any etc. ).

I have my Dad’s old Champion compressor, a two-cylinder, The sticker on the motor is too faded to read but I am guessing it is 3/4 hp to 1 hp. I have it on a 20 amp breaker and a 5′ 12/3 cord.

It initially starts fine and goes up to 100 lbs when where I have it set to cut out. I can hear pressure being bled off the cylinders by the unloader valve after the compressor shuts off so that seems ok. But, when it is time to restart, the motor runs about 10 seconds and before it really gets up to speed the breaker kicks out.

When the breaker kicks, the compressor pulley seems fairly easy to turn by hand–I don’t know what to expect but doesn’t make sense (to me) that the motor is too weak to turn it.

So I started by replacing the check valve–which was completely shot and definitely needed it. No change. Next I did the pressure switch, which came with a new unloader valve. No change. Then I replaced the start and run capacitors. No change. New belts and they aren’t slipping.

If I bleed off the pressure to about 30 lbs by turning the compressor off and running a tool for awhile, it will start up and fill the tank as it should. Seems like it could the unloader valve is not letting off all the pressure, but what are the chances of both the old and new unloader valve being bad?

Any ideas would be appreciated. I hope it isn’t the motor!

Zeroing in on the capacitors was a good idea, as that would be my first thought based on your compressor symptoms. Your power supply looks good based on your description. Replacing the check valve was a good move. If I understand correctly, the compressor pump starts fine with the tank empty, but will not properly restart if there is air in the tank? Things that may be causing this are a faulty valve in the pump (don’t know where for sure, but maybe from the second cylinder to the tank if it’s a two stage or one of the cylinders if it’s just a twin) or the motor itself has an issue with the power on start up against load.

HI Willy Thanks for your reply.

Yes, if I start with an empty tank the pressure will build up to 100 psi no sweat. But, when it is time to restart, the motor will run for about ten seconds and trip the breaker.

If I just bleed off air pressure down to 30 pounds it will restart, but if I only bleed it down to 40 pounds when I flip the switch on it will kick off the breaker again.

It isn’t a two-stage, just an ordinary twin. This is an old horizontal tank type on wheels.

But I am afraid I don’t know what you mean by a faulty valve–could you explain how that would work? It does seem like if the check valve is working OK, and the unloader valve is OK there shouldn’t be any extra pressure that the motor is working against. But that motor just doesn’t quite get enough momentum to keep going.

It would be too bad if it is something in the compressor–I doubt there are any parts for this thing–it is pretty old.

I do have an another motor I think might fit that I could throw on there and see what happens. It is a 3/4 hp 3450 rpm, though I think the one that is on there now is a 1140 or 1725–it runs pretty slow.

Any thoughts? Thanks again!

Could be the motor… which is easier for you. Swapping the motor or opening the pump head to have a look at the valves. It’s the valves inside the pump to which I referred earlier, Charles.

HI Willy–my question about the valves would be, what would I look for? Don’t these cylinders have something like a head gasket that has to be replaced once you open it up? As I mentioned, I doubt there will be any parts for this.

I believe it would be better to try the motor–at least at this point the compressor will pump up!

I’ve not taken this model pump apart Charles, so my response is general. Yes, there will likely be a gasket inside the pump that will need changing. As far as the valves go, you would be looking for anything that looks wonky… broken part, sticking reed etc. I cannot be specific as I haven’t looked inside one. Yup, get the motor checked out first.

I am sure its one of the two capacitors, please tell me where I can order them from? model number BTM56RB34D2M

As noted on this site: “You are here: Home / Is The Compressor Start Capacitor Working? Is The Compressor Start Capacitor Working?

This is page three about troubleshooting a Craftsman air compressor that will not start and this page focuses on – is the compressor start capacitor working?

If you want to review the steps from the beginning, here is page one on figuring out why your Craftsman air compressor will not start. What in heck is a start capacitor?

It’s a device (or sometimes two) normally found on the exterior of a compressor motor, often covered in a metal shroud, near the shaft end of the motor. The purpose of the start capacitor is to help the compressor get going. If your compressor motor also has a run capacitor, that one helps to keep the motor running.

Start capacitor cover installed on electric motorThe start capacitor cover on your compressor motor may look the same as the one shown in the photo, or might differ slightly.

As we have been trying to find out why our Craftsman air compressor will not start, in previous pages we’ve traced the power supply successfully to the motor circuit.

If the compressor motor start capacitor has failed, the power supply to the motor stops there, and the motor will not start.

If you are comfortable with doing so, remove the cover of the start capacitor. Your capacitor may look something like the one in the next photo.

compressor motor start capacitorWhen you get the cover off, examine the capacitor. We are expecting that you have pulled the compressor power cord at this point. Please be careful not to touch the capacitor terminals as a capacitor is a high discharge device, and you could get quite a jolt from the power that’s stored in it.

Look for discoloring, blisters on the outside of the capacitor body, connected terminals that don’t have a lot of corrosion on them, anything that would give you the impression that all is not right with the capacitor.

Even if the motor capacitor looks good, you will still want to check it to make sure that it’s working properly. Please see the embedded video about “How to Check Motor Start and Motor Run Capacitors”

Replacement compressor motor capacitor

You will, unless the label is worn off, be able to see writing on the side of the capacitor. It will show a rating in MFD (mircro-farads) and a voltage range.

As long as you acquire a replacement motor capacitor that has the same MFD rating as the old, and the same voltage range, and you can connect the terminals, then you can use that capacitor, regardless of the shape or size. It’s best to get one that fits inside the existing capacitor cover, of course.

If you cannot see the writing on the side of the capacitor, then it’s time to check out the motor specs to find what capacitor is needed, and you can use your search browser to query what the capacitor is for such and such a motor HP, with xxx voltage etc.”

I have a 5hp Devilbiss ProAir Model PRF5530, 30 gal tank. The compressor has worked fine for about 17 years with no problems. A couple of weeks ago it started throwing the breaker after running for about 3 seconds. I read your articles. Since it starts fine, I replaced the run capacitor and installed a rebuild kit for the cylinder while I was working on it. It still does the same thing. There is no pressure in the tank, no sparks at the rear when it is starting, everything is drained so it isn’t the release valve. The only thing I haven’t replaced is the start capacitor. Since it starts up fine, I didn’t think it was the problem. Any ideas? Thanks,.

“throwing the breaker after running for about 3 seconds.” this suggests the start cap is the issue. Check it out, will you, and let us know?

Finally got the start cap. I was only able to find ONE contractor that could get the start cap from A.O. Smith. No one else had it. I contacted at least 8 different supply houses. Finally found CSH Electric on-line. It cost about $33 which was a lot higher than the other caps I found. The running cap was only $9. Anyway, I put it in last night and it didn’t help at all. Everything else that I plug into that outlet works fine so I know it isn’t the outlet or the wiring to the breaker box. I’m really out of ideas. I’ll probably see if I can find a small-motor repair shop around town and see if they can track the problem down. Thanks.

OK. I’ll order a new capacitor and install it and see if that fixes it. By the way, your video shows the start cap on the outside of the motor. Another site I was looking at said that the start cap was the one inside the rear cover. I replaced the one on the top of the motor. I thought that was the run cap. I’ll get a new one to replace the one in the rear of the motor and let you know what happens. Thanks.

Different compressor motors have different capacitor locations. Some fractional HP motors may even have the cap as part of a circuit board.

Also, I ran another test after posting the above question. I loosened the top air line that connects to the head cylinder on top and moved the air line out of the way. I then attempted to crank it. I felt the air coming out but after 3 seconds it threw the breaker. I reset the breaker and placed my thumb over the head port and tried to crank it. It threw the breaker immediately. I’m guessing that is due to the back pressure my thumb caused.

I have a Ingersoll rand 200 liter single phas. AAttached to a socket in the wall. Used it for good couple of jobs, now it just cuts power after a few seconds of starting and trips the breaker in the house. I use it for sandblasting. Is it possible that maybe the aluminum oxide has some how gotten into the movements?

When the motor runs in the starts for few seconds its fine, then it starts to slow down and trips

Bill, see the troubleshooting page on this site about testing your motor capacitors, and please do so. The compressor symptoms suggest to me that this might be the problem.

My Rigid electric wheel borrow type compressor circuit breaker trip’s around 60psi, any idea what the problem could be ?

Whether or not it’s an electric compressor on a wheelbarrow or not, has no bearing on the circuit breaker tripping, I expect. Are you saying that the circuit breaker in the supply panel trips, and not the breaker on the compressor? If it’s the former, I’d wonder if your extension cord is under sized for the distance from the source to the compressor?

Hi, my craftsman air compressor has worked fine for years and now it blows the fuse as soon as it starts to run. It’s a single cylinder oil free 5 hp max 1.7 hp running 30 gal compressor. 120V 15 Amp. It’s plugged into a receptacle in my garage. I have unplugged it and my fuse is fine so I know it’s the compressor. Where would I find the capacitor(s) and how do I test them? I love to tear stuff apart but I can’t afford to guess with this. I use it all of the time. Need it back up and running asap. Doesn’t matter if tank empty or full, it’s currently empty. Should I look at the motor part itself of first should I look where the electrical cord goes into the box. Model 919.165570

Boz, all the info you have asked for is already available on the pages of this site. No point in retyping it all here. Have a look, and if you have a specific question – other than those that are already answered, please add a comment here.

Capacitors tested fine. I was told by a technician that most likely the bearings are bad causing the inside to touch the windings grounding it out. Electric motors are far from cheap! Holy crap batman!!!! For the price of that I might as well spend a couple bucks more and get a whole new compressor and keep this old tank for storage.

I have 25 gallon husky belt drive air compressor not sure old it is as it was given to me by a friend. It’s been plugged into an outlet with a 15 ft extension cord that runs my garage door and lights for 10 years which is a 15 amp breaker last weekend when tried to start back up it tripped the breaker so I took the belt to be sure it’s not the compressor itself and it still trips took the back cover off the motor and tried cleaning the contact in side still trips I’m at a loss. the motor does have two capacitors. Any suggestions?

See the page on this site about testing the start capacitor. That would be our first step… that, and losing the extension cord completely. Your power supply is marginal even when not being compromised by an extension cord. Move the compressor to the socket and plug it directly into the outlet. Use a longer air line to get air to your tools.

I have a HuskyPro 26 Gal oil lube compressor, when the compressor starts to re-fill I hear the pump cycle about 3-4 times, then it will stall and trip the breaker. I have already replaced the unloader, but that didn’t help. I’m not using any extension cords, and when it is very low pressure, the motor will fire up (but struggle) but then continue to fill up the tank to 145psi or so. the motor already has been reconditioned once (I’m assuming, as the word recon is scratched into the larger of the 2 capacitor bulges on the motor)

If you are sure that the unloader valve is working, and you have not added any load to the power circuit that is feeding the compressor, our recommendation would be to check the start cap.

So, I’ve replaced the unloader, and both the start and run caps… sadly, it’ still stalling on refilling the tank. It will fill the tank from empty just fine, just refilling the tank is where it stalls out. when I let it fill all the way up without stopping it, I can hear the unloader release the pressure, I don’t think it does when I turn it off before it hits it’s full pressure. (I’ve never had an issue with it doing it this way in the past)

Is it fair to say that the compressor works well until there is back pressure from the tank? You’ve checked most of the necessary things to check, yet we wonder if the problem is caused by a wonky tank check valve that prevent free flow of air into the tank, thus overloading the motor circuit? We would remove, clean and / or replace the tank check valve next. If that doesn’t resolve the issue, then it’s pretty much got to be a high pressure valve that’s blocking flow into the tank line as back pressure grows, or it’s the compressor motor itself that has a problem.

I have a dewalt 30hp compressor it fills up fine then when I start to use it and it starts refilling the breaker power pops out and it’s not allowing me to use it again cause the air won’t fill back up please help

Glad to help if we can. What have you checked? Did you read: http://fix-my-compressor.com/compressor-trips-the-breaker-when-the-pressure-drops/ ?

i have a Mcquay unit and the compressor is very hot, i tried restarting it by flipping the breaker off for two hours per instructions from my super, when i re started it, it was on for about a few seconds and tripped the breaker again.

Please tell us about the power supply to the compressor. Extension cord? Amperage of breaker for the compressor circuit. What else is drawing power from the same circuit and so on. If your power supply is starving the motor, overheating and thermal cutout almost always results. If, however, the power supply is good, and the compressor problem is a new one, that suggests that your motor power supply is compromised, and typically that’s a start capacitor problem.

Compressor pumps up to max air when pressure drops it will not come back on until empty was told 3 phase wasn’t big enough.

Well Ron, a bit hard to be specific as we have no idea of the make or model of your air compressor. The troubleshooting pages about air compressors that won’t come back on themselves will be helpful to you we think, and more specifically, can you tell us if the unloader valve works when the compressor reaches cut out?

My compressor keeps tripping the breaker at cut in. Starts fine after I completely empty the tank. I changed the pressure switch, the unloader valve and the check valve. Still trips breaker. Any other ideas? Again starts fine with an empty tank.

Welcome back, Simon. That the compressor starts fine with the tank empty is pointing to a load issue. You replaced the unloader valve, and you confirmed that it is working, which is a good check to make. As long as the power supply is good, and pump pulley turns easily (indicating that there is no mechanical lock up), then it comes down to only a couple of things. One is that you’ve got a valve in the pump that’s locking up under back pressure, or the motor start capacitor isn’t sufficient for the job, or the motor itself is failing.

I have a 4 hp compressor that starts fine when pressure is low but once it has full pressure and it tries to restart it sounds like it is running fast enough but then blows a 20 amp breaker. It seems to make a vibrating noise on and off, then blows. I already changed the starter compacitor, not the run one.

Not knowing the make or model makes diagnosis a bit more difficult, Kevin. If the compressor starts and runs up to cut out when the tank is empty, and only has problems restarting when the tank has air pressure at the cut in level, we wonder if you have checked to ensure that the unloader valve is actually unloading? Not sure what that is? It’s covered on a page on this site.

I have a 120v 6.3amp 1/2hp compressor with a sf of 1.25. I have a 15amp breaker with a 12/2 ran to the motor starter which is operated by the pressure switch on the compressor. The starter has a relay with and overload set at 8.6amps, with a range of up to 20.2amps. The operating pressure is 60psi and when the compressor drains to be refilled it trips upon start-up. What is happening? Do I need a higher amperage breaker? Change the overload amperage? Compressor screwed?

Well, it may not be totally screwed! 🙂 What we think you may have a problem with is the starting capacitor, or the start run capacitor if it only has one. See the page on how to check the caps on this site, and let us know if that was the problem if you would.

I have a 220v air compressor that has been out of service for over ten years. The electric motor was bad so I replaced it with a new one. It will start off and build to under 20psi and trip the circuit breaker. I can slowly build the air pressure to 80 psi after about a half dozen trips of the circuit breaker. If the discharge tube is disconnected from the compressor, it will run fine under no load and not heat up the compressor or the electric motor. Once I start loading the electric motor the circuit breaker trips. It has a Telemechanique XMP pressure regulator with an unloader valve. The compressor does put out a lot of head pressure, so and ideas what I should check next? It ran fine before I took it out of service and never had any problems. It has been and will be stored in a garage. Thank you. Tim

Tim, we are assuming that you’ve drained the sump and added the correct amount of fresh oil? The air intake filter is clean? The tank check valve has been removed an tested? That being the case additional causes could be a motor capacitor failing, the valves inside the pump are failing, or a possible mechanical issue with the pump itself. You can see the page on this site about testing the capacitor, and that’s what we would do next.

I wonder if someone can suggest me about a problem i having with my 2hp induction motor air compressor. Last week the compressor shotted down the 15 amps circuit breaker, I turned on the circuit breaker then the compressor did run for few minutes then the circuit breaker shotted down again. Since the compressor can run on 20 amps circuit I connected the compressor to 20 amps circuit and then when the compressor did reach 80 psi shotted down, this time by the protection on the motor itself (the red button on the back of the motor) . I called the compressor company and they told me that it was a problem with the motor and they sent me the motor that i installed today but I have the same problem. The pump turn freely by hand so I, don’t think is a pump problem, the compressor turn of to 80 psi all time but it isn’t a problem from the regulator because any time the compressor stop still has the electric power coming from the regulator (I call ”regulator” the device that stop the compressor when the compressor reach the max. pressure ) Thank you Stefano

Please tell us about the new motor, Stefano. Did it come with a start and run capacitor? Or, are you using the older ones. We think that it could be an issue with the run capacitor on this motor. Please see the page on this site about how to check them.

My new compressor was tripping the breaker on kick-in pressure. My garage only has 2 outlets making an extension cord necessary until I re-wire (although the book says avoid extension cords). My New Porter Cable belt driven compressor filled from 0-135 (kick off pressure). I read this tip page and after going to the hardware store and purchasing a new 25′ 10 gauge contractor extension cord (the big thick ones) everything worked perfectly. Thank you so much for this web page! Hope this helps anyone else who has this issue.

Bob, thanks for the vote of confidence. Glad you were able to get your compressor working properly.

I have 2 compressors, both 110volt. Every time I turn on either of them they trip my indoors breaker. If I turn off all lights, radio, etc, it doesn’t trip. No extention cords are used, just the heavy-duty 5-6ft cord supplied on the compressors, straight into my receptacle. What do I need to do? Larger breaker maybe? Or upgrade wiring to larger gauge? Any help would be appreciated.

We suspect a couple of reasons, Kevin. Have a look at: http://fix-my-compressor.com/lights-dim-when-the-compressor-starts/ , and also at this page: http://fix-my-compressor.com/air-compressor-will-not-start/ . How far is the outlet from the power panel and what is the amperage of the breaker? A larger gauge wire could be useful, as might a higher amperage breaker, but we can’t be sure as we don’t know what yours is now.

Ronin's Grips

Tired of tripping your circuit breaker when your air compressor refills? You can easily fix that!

I tell you what it is really hard to get by without a compressor but it can also be but it can also be a real headache if the circuit breaker regularly, or even unpredictably, trips when the compressor tries to top off the tank. There a couple of really easy modifications we can do to the compressor but before that, let’s step through a couple of things first just in case there is another issue at hand:

Safety Stuff

I actually spent more time trying to think about the what-ifs than actually writing the two options to make your compressor start softer but I do want you to approach this safely. I am assuming you are handy with a basic understanding of electrical wiring and compressed air to do this work.

First, you should be using a properly sized circuit or at least one that is very close. If your compressor needs far more than what your circuit is sized for, say 30 amps and you only have a 15 amp circuit, then the fix I am going to tell you may not help. It does often help when you have a circuit that is very close to the required amps but when there is a heavy draw, it exceeds the circuits capacity so the breaker trips. My experience is that consumer air compressors list a low draw number like 15 amps and can draw more than that under peak load. So, for example, if you have a 15 amp circuit and a compressor that says it needs 15 amps – you may be having some challenges that this modification might help with.

In terms of properly sizing a circuit, engineers and others can give you rules of thumb such as doubling the circuit capacity to allow for spikes in demand or to allow 6 amps per 1 HP for 1 phase or 1.25 amps per HP for 3 phase. Doing this means running new wire and installing new breakers. DO NOT JUST PUT IN A BIGGER BREAKER! The breaker is protecting the wiring from over heating and catching fire. Each thickness, or gauge, of wire has a limit to the number of amps it can carry. Never put a higher capacity breaker on a smaller cable – you are asking for trouble in the worst way.

Second, plug the compressor directly into the wall. An extension cord will likely introduce too much resistance and cause the breaker to trip so do not use an extension cord (assuming your compressor is not an air nailer or air brush model – they draw so little that they can use extension cords).

Third, I have only encountered this a few times over the years but breakers can wear out over time. If you investigate and it seems that you should have enough capacity and can’t figure out why your breaker is tripping, then try installing a new breaker and see if that helps. Again, install the right size and don’t put the wiring at risk of fire. If in doubt, bring in an electrician to straighten things out.

Fourth, if you look at your outlets and/or wiring and they look burned, there is any trace of soot or a burned smell stop and get an electrician to inspect the line. It may sound funny but I have seen lines fail over the years for a ton of unexpected reasons.

Now, on to making a compressor softer starting

IMPORTANT SAFETY ANNOUNCEMENT – BE SURE YOUR SYSTEM IS FULLY DRAINED AND THE COMPRESSOR IS UNPLUGGED (ENSURING THERE IS NO WAY IT CAN TURN ON) BEFORE YOU DO ANY WORK. The pressures involved can hurt you and we do not want that.

Make sure the unit is unplugged also just to be safe.

So, with those things said, let’s say you need to make your compressor work better with the circuit you have for whatever reason, let’s talk about what some folks call a “soft start” modification. It’s called this because it makes it easier for the pump and compressor to start and come up to speed before a heavy load is introduced.

The way a compressor works is that a motor has to turn the pump and send air through a filler tube into the main tank. Between that little tube and the tank is a check valve that screws in right at the top of the tank that keeps air from rushing backwards. Now when the compressor fills the tank each time, the switch controller opens a bleed off valve to empty the air in the filler tube to make it easier for the compressor to start next time. The problem is that the volume of air in that tube is relatively small and when your compressor starts, it can only turn a few times before the tube is full and then the motor must work much harder and thus draw more amps to overcome the check valve to put air in the tank. Depending on the amps required, this can then trip the breaker.

Look at this next photo. See how short and small that left tube is? The pump can only turn a few times before that left tube is pressurized – it never has a chance to build up speed and momentum in the flywheel. As a result when the pressure of the tank is reached it puts a lot of strain on the motor.

Note, the second smaller tube, which is often a flexible plastic, provides pressure to the cut off switch that automatically turns the motor off when the tank reaches a specified pressure. We are interested in the larger tube that runs from the head (top) of the compressor pump down to the top of the tank. It is usually much larger than the pressure switch tube.

The fix is simple – increase the air capacity between the pump and the tank! You want the motor to be able to start and the heavy flywheel build up momentum before it encounters the pressure behind the check valve.

Option one: Simply make a longer tube so there is more potential volume to fill

There are two options to make this softer starting. One is to just add a long length of copper tubing in between the compressor and the tank. You roll it into a coil and it kind of looks like a moonshine still and it does the job. The con is that it looks really funky. I did this with one of my early compressors and the photo below shows about 8 to 10 foot of tubing installed. I would replace whatever the original tubing was with the same size so you would do the same. You need to replace the compression fittings also and you can do the job in about 30 minutes. Note that I used hose clamps to keep the coils from rattling. Ugly as heck but it worked until I finally wore out the pump. I checked the date on my photos and I ran this setup from 2010 to 2014 – it does hold up.

Option two: Add a reservoir to really increase the volume

The second approach is a little bit more elaborate and involves putting a 1/2 to 1 gallon small air tank between the compressor and the tank. This allows the pump and motor to come up to speed before they must overcome the check valve. This works great. The only slightly annoying thing you will notice is that once the pressure is reached and the compressor cuts off, the pressure relief valve opens and the air runs out longer because there is more air in the line.

A couple of quick design considerations:

I carefully bent the aluminum using a tubing bender and tried to avoid abrupt turns.
The small tank you see is a Firestone 9125 1 gallon 150 PSI tank. The compressor filled the main tank to 135 PSI so the tank needed at least that rating to be safe. Be sure your tank is at least rated as high as your compressor.
Factor in the length of tank and if you will have enough room. The one pictured is 12″ long.
The tubing should be at least the same diameter as the original and the tank’s fittings should be adequately sized. This is a fairly small compressor in the photo.
I secured the tank to plywood and the plywood to the original compressor using the screw hanger fittings you find with conduit. I wanted it to be relatively portable and I also wanted the wood to take up some of the vibration.
I installed a T-fitting at the bottom of the tank to drain off moisture and never really found any. I would recommend you still add it even if it just gives you an ability to bleed off air if something happens.
Use quality Teflon/PTFE tape on all of your fittings to prevent leaks
An optional recommendation I would urge you to do is to either use brake-line wrenches or at least quality fixed wrenches to avoid rounding over the fittings. It is easy for an adjustable wrench to slip and round over the edge of a fitting. You need to tighten things firmly so they do not leak or come loose.

I got by with the above for a number of years until I could afford to both get a bigger compressor and pay an electrician to run a 240 volt service into my shop. I don’t need it now but these two approaches got me by for almost six years before I bought my current Ingersoll Rand.

If you find this post useful, please share the link on Facebook, with your friends, etc. Your support is much appreciated and if you have any feedback, please email me at in**@ro*********.com . Please note that for links to other websites, I may be paid via an affiliate program such as Avantlink, Impact, Amazon and eBay.

AC Breaker Keeps Tripping Breaker: 9 Common Culprits & Fixes

“My AC keeps tripping the breaker. What’s wrong? How do I stop my AC from tripping the breaker?”

AC tripping the breaker is annoying. Even more troublesome, repeatedly trying to run an air conditioner that keeps tripping the breaker can result in permanent damage to the AC unit. So, easy on the breaker reset button ; you should diagnose and fix the problem first.

Here is what might be happening with your air conditioner:

Air conditioner trips the breaker immediately . When you turn the AC unit, the breaker will flip immediately or only after a few seconds.
AC trips breaker after 5 minutes or so. The AC starts OK, but after a few minutes, the breaker will trip. This, for example, is typical for the AC compressor tripping breaker (outside AC unit tripping breaker).
AC trips breaker after a few hours . An air conditioner will work fine for several hours before it trips the breaker.

To help everybody out, we are going to look at how to check why the AC unit keeps tripping the breaker. We are going to check for 9 key culprits that cause the AC circuit breaker to keep tripping.

There are only two roots for why your AC keeps tripping:

You have a faulty breaker . This involves issues with circuit breaker, AC wiring, and electrical short circuits.

sketch of air conditioner for fixing ac breaker that keeps tripping

As every HVAC professional does, you should check these culprits one by one, eliminating the causes as you go. Once you have correctly detected what is causing the AC breaker to keep tripping and fix the problem, your AC unit should work smoothly again.

Note: For every culprit, we are going to tell you if it causes the AC breaker to trip immediately, after a few minutes, or after a few hours, and explain why.

Here are the most common culprits (listed one by one) for any air conditioner type – be it central air, mini split, portable, or window air conditioner – to keep tripping the breaker. We are going to start with breaker-related issues (#1 to #3) and continue with AC unit-related issues (#4 to #9) :

Table of Contents

#1 Circuit Breaker Is Bad, Loose, Or Undersized (Causing AC To Trip Breaker Immediately)

If you are lucky, the AC breaker keeps tripping due to a bad breaker. This is one of the easiest problems to solve; problems with the AC unit itself are harder and costlier to fix.

It’s not uncommon to see a bad circuit breaker. Both new and old breakers can go bad due to wear-and-tear or acute amp surge that fries the breaker. Over time, even well-installed circuit breakers can come loose and cause all sorts of issues, including tripping unexpectedly.

In limited cases, we also see that homeowners have installed a circuit breaker that is just too small. Example: A 3-ton AC unit on 220V has a max. wattage of about 3,600 watts and requires a 25A or 30A breaker. You can check what size AC breaker you need here accounting for NEC 80% ampacity rule .

Dead giveaways of a bad breaker are:

Breaker smells like something is burning.
Breaker is hot to the touch.
Breaker keeps tripping all the time.

Solution: First, you need to check if you have a bad breaker. Secondly, check if the breaker is loose; try to nudge it from left to right to set it back in the required position. Of course, you will also have to check the above article if indeed your breaker is big enough to handle all the amps that you need to run your AC unit.

If you have a bad breaker, you just simply replace it. Get a new one – circuit breakers are quite inexpensive – and be sure to check that it has the same ampacity as the old one. Everybody can DIY breaker replacement; you can consult this guide on how to replace a circuit breaker if you need some help.

Once you have a working breaker again, your AC should stop tripping it.

#2 Wrong AC Wiring (New Air Conditioners Trip Breaker Immediately)

Another possibility, especially for new air conditioners, is wrong wiring. If you have a newly wired thermostat or you have just replaced an old thermostat, chances are that not all wires are connected to the right sockets.

For air conditioners, you will have to connect:

Blue or yellow wire is meant for cooling. These wires are connected to the Y terminal in a standard thermostat.
Red fire for power, connected to R.
Common wire (usually black) connected to C.

wrong thermostat wiring leading to ac breaker tripping

For more advice on how to wire a thermostat, you can consult the thermostat wiring guide here .

Wrong wiring will lead to the outside AC unit tripping breaker immediately (central aircon or mini splits). This is a standard AC compressor tripping issue; the compressor creates a surge of amps that can hit an undersized breaker if it’s wrongly wired.

Solution: Check that all the wires are in the right sockets. In limited cases, you will have to can an electrician to fix this, but most people can use the guide cited above to adequately wire a thermostat themselves.

#3 Electrical Short Circuit (Unsheathed Wires Touching)

Any short circuit can cause a spike in electrical current (amps) that will trip the breaker. In fact, one of the reasons why we use circuit breakers in the first place is to protect our circuits against short circuits.

In the case of wiring air conditioners, the short circuit happens when two exposed wired (unsheathed because the coating has been degrading for years) touch.

Example: Let’s say that the blue and red wire touch. This doesn’t happen if they are properly insulated. However, over time, insulation can decay. When this happens, the electrical current from two wires will travel along a single wire (the one with the least electric resistance, according to Ohm’s law). This will cause a spike in amps that can knock out the breaker.

Admittedly, it’s very difficult to tell if you are experiencing a short circuit. You do have to go to check all the wires to see if the insulation is damaged. This short circuit problem also causes the AC to trip break immediately, after 5 minutes, or even after 10 hours of running the AC unit. It is not time-specific which makes the detection even harder.

Solution: If you suspect that your AC unit tripping the breaker due to a short circuit, you can check the wires yourself or call an electrician. Once you find faulty wires that are causing the short circuit, you have to reapply the coating, or, in more cases, just replace the wire.

All of this, of course, is easier said than done.

Once you have eliminated the thermostat-related problems, you can start checking if there is something wrong with your air conditioner unit, resulting in the breaker tripping repeatedly:

#4 Dirty Condenser Coils (Causing Outside Air Conditioner Circuit Breaker To Trip)

A lot of AC tripping breaker problems are caused by the air conditioner overheating. One of the most common examples of this is the air conditioner circuit breakers outside to trip.

The outdoor condenser coils are exposed to the environment. That means that anything from dirt, leaves, dust, and grass, can find its way into the AC outdoor unit (you may even find a dead rat in there) . If this dirt accumulates on the fairly exposed condenser coils, you will have problems with the outdoor AC unit tripping breaker.

These condenser coils are basically superb heat exchangers . They expel all the heat that is generated in the refrigeration cycle. If these condenser coils are coated with dirt, for example, their ability to conduct heat is impeded. Obviously, if the coils can’t give away enough heat, the whole outdoor unit will get overheated.

And overheating leads to the AC tripping the breaker.

In this case, the AC breaker won’t turn trip immediately. It won’t even trip in 5 minutes or so. Dirty condenser coils are one of the most common reasons why the AC trips breaker after a few hours. The AC will overheat in time and that can take anywhere from some 10 minutes to several hours.

Solution: Clean the outdoor condenser coils. Open the outdoor unit and check if there is dirt coating on the coils. If there is, clean out the debris and spray them with detergent or coil cleaners. You can read how to clean the condenser coils on the Carrier website here .

After the outdoor coils are cleaned, they can adequately exchange heat again. That means that all the heat that has to be expelled via the coils will be released into the atmosphere again. As a result of the AC unit not overheating, you will no longer have a problem with AC breaker tripping.

#5 Dirty Air Filters (Restricted Airflow Results In Overheating And Trips Breaker)

Dirty air filters are another common culprit for an AC unit to trip breaker after a few hours.

We all know that every AC should have adequate airflow. If the filters are dirty, they restrict the airflow. This can cause a series of unwanted issues and will eventually lead to AC overheating. And, as we know, if the AC is overheating, it will inevitably trip a circuit breaker.

Everybody pretty much knows what to do with dirty air filters, right?

Solution: Clean or replace the air filters. This will again enable the AC unit to operate at sufficient airflow. The AC unit will not overheat. The AC breaker will not trip. It’s a pretty simple fix.

#6 Compressor Fails To Start (Or Hard-Starting Compressor)

Out of all the things that may go wrong, the compressor-related issues are the worst. When you have a faulty compressor, you will in almost all cases have to replace it. This replacement can be so costly that homeowners with older units usually just replace the whole air conditioning system.

Now, if you have a faulty compressor (the reason might also be a fault capacitor), you can expect two things to happen:

Compressor doesn’t start at all. Regardless of this, the AC compressor can still trip the breaker. You will notice that in this case, the AC compressor trips the breaker immediately.
Compressor starts slowly (usually takes a few seconds) . This is an indication of a faulty compressor and might lead to the AC compressor tripping the breaker after a few minutes.

The compressor – the main part of the AC – is responsible for compressing the refrigerant gas. If it doesn’t do its job, the AC unit might start overheating and blowing warm (instead of cold) air.

When the compressor doesn’t start at all, there is usually a spike in amps along the compressor wire to the breaker. This will trip the breaker immediately.

If you have a hard-starting compressor, the breaker won’t trip immediately. Nonetheless, such a compressor repeatedly can repeatedly send amp spikes towards the breaker in order to keep running. Eventually – usually in a few minutes or so – one of these amp spikes will overwhelm the circuit breaker and the breaker will flip.

Solution: This is a hard pill to swallow but you will probably have to replace the AC compressor. This is a complex replacement process you can’t do yourself; you will require an HVAC professional to do it for you.

You can, of course, take this ‘opportunity’ to replace the AC unit altogether. If your AC unit is past its prime (15+ years old), replacing the whole air conditioner makes sense in many cases.

#7 Compressor Is Grounded (Wires Touching The Sides)

Another problem a compressor might have – much less troublesome – is some wire displacements. Namely, the electrical wires that power the compressor are unsheathed and touching the compressor casing. It’s always best to check if everything is OK with the compressor wires.

Of course, if the wires touch the metal casing, all that electricity will go to the ground (we talk about the compressor being grounded). Inevitably, this will cause a spike in amps that will knock out the breaker.

Now, this may happen when you turn on the AC, after a few minutes, or even after several hours. The vibrations in the compressor pretty much displace one wire so much that it touches the casing, and that may happen immediately or even after some hours.

Solution: Check if all the wires that go in and out of the compressor still have their insulation coating on them. Also, check if the wires are neatly packed and away from the casing. If you find an exposed wire close to the casing, it’s very likely this is the wire that keeps tripping the AC breaker.

Use a plastic or nylon line to fix the wire in place, away from the casing. You can even replace that wire if you see that the insulation coating is severely damaged. After you do that, your breaker should stop tripping.

#8 Low Refrigerant Levels (Lines Leaking Freon)

All air conditioners work based on the refrigerant cycle. For this cycle to work properly, the lines have to be full of freon (refrigerant gas like R22, R410A, and so on). If you have a leak in the refrigerant lines, there will be less refrigerant within the lines which will lead to AC overheating and potentially tripping the breaker.

Example: If your window AC keeps tripping the breaker, the refrigerant leak could be the culprit.

Solution: You have to check if the refrigerant levels are indeed low by measuring the refrigerant pressure. If freon is indeed leaking out, you will first have to seal the leak and then recharge the AC unit.

In most cases, you will need professional help for this.

hvac professional measuring refrigerant pressure

If you want to know how a professional refills the freon, you can consult this article about how to recharge a window air conditioner .

#9 Faulty Fan Motor (Leading To Overheating And Breaker Tripping)

In limited cases, we also see that a faulty fan motor is responsible for the outdoor AC unit tripping a breaker after a few hours.

The outdoor fan produces airflow that expels the heat into the environment (cooling the condenser coils). That fan is powered by the motor. If the motor doesn’t produce adequate power output, the fan doesn’t produce adequate airflow, and the outdoor AC cooling process is impeded.

bad fan motor causing air conditioner to trip breaker

This can lead to AC overheating and tripping the AC breaker. This happens when the AC is overheated enough; it takes a few hours (not on start-up or after a few minutes).

Solution: Check if the outdoor fan is spinning. If not, the problem might be a faulty fan motor. You will probably need to replace it. Before you do that, do check out all the reasons why outdoor AC is not spinning here . Namely, a faulty fan motor is not the only reason why the condenser fan is not spinning.

After you fix this and the fan is spinning again, there won’t be overheating, and the outdoor AC unit will stop tripping the breaker.

How To Call If You Need Professional Help?

As we have seen, both the diagnosis of why the AC keeps tripping the breaker as well as the fixes are not a piece of the case.

From checking the breaker to checking if something is wrong with your AC unit, there is quite a lot of knowledge (and experience) that guys fixing AC units should have.

This article was a general overview of the causes for AC to keep tripping the breaker. If, however, you realize you will a professional help, you can turn to your local HVAC companies.

We hope this helps somebody figure out why the AC keeps tripping the breaker and how to go about fixing it by themselves or with professional help.

AC Making Noise: 5 Air Conditioner Noises + How To Fix Them
Window Air Conditioner Freezing Up In Summer? Here’s What Is Wrong
Thermostat Not Reaching Set Temperature: 7 Causes + Fixes
How To Tell If AC Is Frozen? 3 Tell-Tale Signs (Ice On Evaporator Coils)
How To Measure Superheat? Easy 10 Step-By-Step Guide

Air Compressor Keeps Tripping Reset Button -Thermal Overload Causes & Solutions

Hey! This site is reader-supported and we earn commissions if you purchase products from retailers after clicking on a link from our site.

With just a couple of minutes running time, or sometimes after ten or fifteen minutes or so, the air compressor reset button always trips on my air compressor.

If this is your compressor problem, this article will provide a few things to look for and perhaps fix if your compressor reset button always trips.

What’s the purpose of an air compressor thermal overload reset switch, where is the reset button & what does it look like, why a compressor reset button always trips, how to stop your air compressor reset button from tripping, what to do if you think your air compressor thermal overload switch is faulty, air compressor tripping thermal reset button vs tripping circuit breaker, faqs (frequently asked questions), existing reader reset button tripping problems and responses.

First of all, let’s discuss the role of a compressor reset button. The compressor thermal overload reset, also commonly referred to as a thermal cut-out, thermal overload, or safety switch, is there to automatically turn off the air compressor’s power when it overheats. Learn about the basics of motor protection here !

The reset button is there to protect the motor from becoming damaged if the compressor begins overheating. That’s also why the air compressor keeps tripping the reset button because the system is becoming too hot. You can typically find the reset button on the end or side of your compressor, and sometimes even located inside the wiring of the motor.

The thermal overload button is used in series with the power supply to the motor and in the event of excessive overload or heating, it cuts off power to the motor to allow it time to cool down.

Some thermal overload switches are manual, and require the big red button on them to be pressed when the air compressor has cooled. Others are auto-reset types, which automatically let the motor restart when it has cooled enough. All thermal reset switches are similar in design, regardless of what electric motor they’re on, whether that’s an air compressor, air conditioner, or heating blower. You can view some thermal reset switches here !

You might know it as the thermal cut-out or thermal safety switch. Others know it as the reset button. You can see one of them on the end of the electric motor in the image below.

It may be a small red button on the shroud of the compressor, it may be a button on the end of the motor if that is visible on your compressor, and I have seen them on the side of the motor at the shaft end, on some compressor motors.

Some are inside of the wiring cover on the motor, others are an inline switch on the wiring. The locations of this important piece of equipment on the air compressor sure do vary.

Air Compressor Keeps Tripping Reset Button -Thermal Overload Causes & Solutions

Regardless of where the compressor thermal reset button is on your compressor – on the motor or on the shroud of the compressor – its purpose is to cut the power to the motor in the event that the motor itself gets too hot.

Without the air compressor thermal overload switch, if there were a condition in the motor that was causing it to get hot, eventually the heat itself would destroy the compressor motor.

If the compressor reset button always trips on your compressor, the motor is getting too hot and you may need a replacement. For information on how to buy a compressor motor reset switch please visit our guide!

There are a few reasons as to why your reset button may be tripping on your air compressor and these are:

The power supply
The compressor runs too long
Centrifugal switch

The Power Supply

Check to make sure that your air compressor is plugged right into the wall socket, and that it is not being powered through an extension cord or power bar. The reason being is that the wire in the extension or power bar may not be large enough to allow the flow of power that the compressor motor needs.

The power cord of the compressor is sized to allow sufficient power to the compressor motor. Restricting it through a smaller wire will cause the motor to overheat. If the motor overheats, the thermal cut-out will shut it down. This is a very common issue.

Compressor Runs Too Long

If you are using your air compressor for extended periods, more than, say, ten or fifteen minutes at a time, the typical DIY air compressor will overheat. The duty cycle of the compressor may be less than the time you are requiring it to run, and the motor will overheat. If you think this is happening to your air compressor, try only running it for ten minutes and then letting it sit for at least that time so the motor can cool, before firing it up again.

Older air compressors – and some not so old if the compressor has tipped over for some reason – can develop a tank check valve leak. If that happens, air will be bleeding out of the tank all the time, even when the compressor is running. If that is happening on your air compressor, it will take much longer for the tank to fill – if it ever does – to cut out, and the by-product of that is a motor that overheats.

See the troubleshooting pages on this site about how to fix a leaking tank check valve .

If your air compressor has or is developing a mechanical issue – perhaps a weakened or broken intake or pressure valve or a blown gasket in the pump, the compressor may have to run much longer than normal to fill the tank to cut out.

It may run so long that the motor will shut down on thermal cutout before the tank is full. If your air compressor seems to be undergoing this scenario, it may be time to add a valve and gasket kit. The troubleshooting pages hyperlinked on this page address these issues.

Centrifugal Switches

Our thanks to Waite Mccormick for providing the following information on centrifugal switches and their role in thermal overload:

Another issue, the centrifugal switch can stick which will keep the start windings energized tripping the thermal switch within 30 sec.

That centrifugal switch is kinda like 1st gear sorta speaking, and when the motor gets almost 3/4 of its design RPM, it shifts the motor windings to the run windings, kinda like a running drive gear.

The start windings are much smaller and can’t withstand the heat (of running full rpm) resulting in the kicking of your thermal overload. Over time, the centrifugal switch can shift out of adjustment, causing it to get stuck in a singular position.

If the centrifugal switch were to get stuck in an open position then the windings won’t shift properly. The start windings can’t withstand the heat of the compressor’s full RPM which subsequently causes the compressor to overheat.

I’ve provided you with the 3 reasons why your air compressor reset button keeps tripping. Now, let’s focus on ways to combat this!

Time needed: 10 minutes

Air Compressor Reset Button Fixes

Make sure that the air compressor is plugged directly into a wall outlet that provides 20 amps or more, and do not use power bars or extension cords.

To not overwork the air compressor, or exceed its duty cycle, Run the compressor for say 10 minutes, and then allow it to sit for 10 minutes before running it again. This will allow the engine sufficient time to cool and ensure that it doesn’t overheat and trip the reset button.

First of all, you want to make sure the points on the contact plate are in the open position by bending the circular spring flat so the points are no longer in contact. If the points are welded shut, the contact plate needs to be replaced. If there is light pitting on the surface points, you should be able to sand them gently with say 400 grit sandpaper. Anything larger will create an unstable condition and so, the contact plate must be replaced.

Air Compressor Reset Button Tripping Fix YouTube Demonstration

I have picked out the below video as a useful YouTube demonstration on how to fix your air compressor reset button.

What are your options if it turns out that your thermal overload switch is faulty, and tripping when the compressor isn’t overheating? In this situation, you’re probably better off buying a replacement than trying to DIY fix the switch. I’d first recommend seeking professional advice, whether that is at a repair center or a local compressor store.

People often confuse tripping the thermal reset button and tripping the circuit breaker. The key difference is that the thermal reset button is solely due to overheating while the circuit breaker is down for a number of reasons. If the motor on the air compressor is unable to start for whatever reason, but still tries to draw power, it may exceed the amperage and capacity of the breaker, causing it to trip.

Circuit breakers are likely to trip due to air filters, broken extension cords, clogged cylinders, faulty pressure switches, failed capacitors, failed unloader valves, and more. For more information visit our Air Compressor Keeps Tripping Circuit Breaker – Why & How To Fix guide!

It is likely that your compressor is tripping due to your power supply not being large enough to power the compressor or the compressor is overheating from working for too long and so the reset button trips.

The reset button can be located on the motor or the shroud of the compressor, it typically depends on the make and model of your compressor.

It really does depend on the make and model of the compressor. Some compressors will have their reset buttons wired into the motor, whilst others are located at the end of the compressor.

Reset buttons, otherwise known as thermal switches or thermal reset buttons, are important parts of air compressors as they ensure that air compressors do not overheat to prevent damage to parts and the overall system.

Look for the reset switch, typically a small red or black button near the side of the motor near the power cord, and click this. The location will vary depending on the make and model.

The sole purpose of resetting your air compressor is that it is getting too hot. Therefore it cuts power to the compressor to ensure that it doesn’t overheat any further and subsequently prevent damage from occurring.

Harbor Freight Compressor Thermal Switch Keeps Popping Out

I have the 90234 air compressor from Harbor Freight. I have used it quite often for over a year. I have even pushed it on multiple occasions running it nonstop for hours without a break.

Yesterday while using it with my sandblaster the air compressor thermal overload switch popped and the compressor died.

I restarted it to only have it run for about thirty seconds before it died again.

Figuring it needed a rest I left it alone. Today I went to start the compressor only to have it run for another thirty or so seconds and just cut out, it didn’t even fill the tank.

The oil and its level seemed fine.

Is it possible my motor is dying? I have it on a power strip all by itself connected to an outlet without anything else and I never had this problem before even when running the compressor for hours at a time.

I am going to check tomorrow if there is a restriction of some sort on the copper line. If I can get any advice I appreciate it. Thanks

Scott, I don’t know what the Duty Cycle of your model of Harbor Freight compressor is. If you are not sure what I mean by Duty Cycle, see the page of that name linked from the sitemap page for complete info.

I think, reading between the lines, that you know that you have abused the compressor. If, in fact, it is not a continuous-duty compressor, from your own admission, you have run it long and hot, and I suspect, this has damaged your motor, if not the pump.

Sounds like you have had your money out of this one, and since, I suspect, replacing the motor may only solve one of the issues, it may be time to retire this one for parts and get another.

To be sure, find an electric motor rebuild shop, and take the motor there for a load test.

Cheers and good luck.

Here are a number of existing reader problems and helpful responses to reset button problems with various brands of air compressors:

Central Pneumatic Air Compressor Will Not Stay Running – Central Pneumatic Air Compressor Troubleshooting
Air Compressor Won’t Start – Ways to Fix Air Compressor Won’t Turn On Problems
Makita Air Compressor Trips Reset Button
Kobalt Air Compressor Reset Button – Kobalt Air Compressor Keeps Tripping Reset Button
Central Pneumatic Air Compressor Keeps Tripping Reset Button

If you have any questions regarding air compressor reset buttons then, leave a comment below, with a photo if applicable, so that someone can help you!

By Aidan Weeks

A passionate Mechanical Engineer with endless enthusiasm for fluid power - building off the back of over 18 years of high quality contribution and discussion stimulated by Bill Wade here at About Air Compressors. With both practical and theoretical experience in pneumatics and hydraulics, I'm putting my knowledge to work - and working my grey-matter through my research, assistance and publishing work here at About Air Compressors. Feel free to reach out any time! P.S. A HUGE shout out to Doug who really offers such great value to all visitors to About Air Compressors - once again, feeling like I'm standing on the shoulders of GIANTS by getting to work alongside such a great community

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“My AC Works But It Keeps Tripping the Breaker”

Does your air conditioner cool for a while but then trip your circuit breaker and shut off?

Typically, your AC breaker trips when there’s a short circuit, the AC is overworking or a part is bad or malfunctioning.

If you continue to run your AC, you could permanently damage the air conditioner. Get a professional AC repair tech out as soon as you can.

Now let’s look at the specific causes of an AC tripping the breaker.

Specific AC problems that can trip your breaker

Dirty air filter.

If you leave your air filter in so long that it is completely clogged with dirt, it can suffocate your AC, causing it to work much harder than it should, overheat, and trip the breaker.

Dirty condenser coils

These coils, located in the outside AC unit, are designed to release the heat from your home to the outside. But if they’re covered in dirt, they can’t do that. (It’s like you trying to cool off while wearing a wool sweater).

Bad capacitor

A capacitor is responsible for starting and keeping your air conditioner running. If it goes bad, it can pull too much electricity and trip your breaker.

Old or weak compressor

The compressor is in your air conditioner’s outdoor unit. A weak compressor has trouble starting. When it does try to start, it may try to pull too much electricity, which will trip your breaker.

If this is the problem, an air conditioning professional might recommend installing a hard start kit.

Loose electrical connections

Wires expand and contract as the weather changes, which can cause loose electrical connections inside of your air conditioner and result in a short circuit.

Another mechanical problem

There are numerous small mechanical problems that could also be causing your AC to trip your breaker.

Get your AC repaired today

Need help with your air conditioner and live in the Atlanta , Nashville , or Birmingham, AL areas? Give Coolray a call! We have been keeping people cool since 1966 and our technicians have the tools and experience to handle all your AC issues.

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Recent Posts

10 Reasons Why Your Air Compressor Keeps Tripping the Breaker

Table of Contents

Air Compressor Trips The Breaker As Soon As It Starts

Air Compressor Trips Breaker After Running for a Few Seconds (Or Longer)

Can a bad compressor trip a breaker?

What is a common problem fault on an air compressor?

How do I stop my air compressor from tripping the breaker?

Can An Air Compressor Be Laid Down or Stored on Its Side?

Why Does My Air Compressor Keep Tripping the Breaker?

1. Shorted Air Compressor

Air Compressor Troubleshooting Chart, Guide And PDF

4. Check valves and gaskets:

Air Compressor Troubleshooting Topics:

Air Compressor Troubleshooting Chart

About Ivan Sanchez

Home Services

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Smart Living

Top stories

Air Compressor Keeps Tripping Reset? (We Have a Fix!)

Do You Need Appliance Repair Services?

A Reset Button’s Purpose

Air Compressors

Three Basic Types

Not Enough Power

What’s the Fix?

Running the Compressor Too Long

Sticking Centrifugal Switches

Tripping the Circuit Breaker

Unloader Valve

Pressure Switch

Are Your Air Compressor Vents and Filters Clear?

Is Your Air Compressor Properly Maintained?

Related Questions

Summing It Up

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Solving the dilemma: why is my air compressor keeps tripping reset?

What is an air compressor reset?

Common causes of air compressor tripping

Troubleshooting tips for air compressors

How to fix a faulty pressure switch

How to test your air compressor

Tips for recognizing and preventing potential issues

Air compressor keeps tripping reset? (We have a fix!)

Are your air compressor vents and filters clear?

Is your air compressor properly maintained?