trek mtb bars

Best mountain bike handlebars: steer with confidence and precision

• Danny Milner
• June 13, 2024

The best handlebars will give you greater control and comfort while riding, and are a simple way to upgrade your bike. These are the best we've tested.

The best mountain bike handlebars are the right width and form to give you control and comfort when riding your bike, whether you’re climbing, descending, riding cross-country or enduro. We’ve tried and tested many to bring you our pick of the best, whatever your needs and budget. Don’t ignore the significance the best mountain bike grips can make to your ride as well, while the optimal mountain bike stem can make a big difference to comfort and handling.

Jump straight to the handlebar diameter you’re looking for:

Jump to: Best 35mm diameter bars Jump to: Best 31.8mm diameter bars

Best 35mm diameter bars

OneUp’s E Carbon handlebar noticeably reduces deflection from roots and rocks

1. OneUp Carbon E-Bar

Best for comfort and control.

Weight: 249g | Width: 800mm  | Rise: 35mm | Dimensions: 8° back, 5° up | Rating: 10/10

Reasons to buy:

• Improved comfort and control
• Reduced fatigue

Reasons to avoid:

• Not the lightest carbon bar
• Only available in 35mm rise in e-bike version
• Difficult to see markings
• Slight trade-off in steering accuracy

OneUp has designed its Carbon bar not to save weight, like most examples, but to improve comfort and control. With an ovalised bend, the bar is carefully tuned to offer more vertical compliance. And it works – during back-to-back testing we noticed the bike deflected less off big roots, which gave a calmer, more composed ride, and let us loosen our grip on the bars, which helped with fatigue.

It’s a 35mm diameter bar, with a 800mm width and integrated channels for hiding e-bike wiring. Gradients on the bar let you set up the rake of the bar to match your bike’s head angle, although they’re hard to read. Lots of bars claim to be compliant, but few can match the extra comfort dished out by the OneUp Carbon E-Bar and its analogue cousin, the Carbon Bar.

Read the full review of the OneUp Carbon E-Bar

OneUp’s Aluminium handlebar takes the sting out of the trail

2. OneUp Aluminium handlebar

Improved comfort at a lower price.

Weight: 340g | Width: 800mm  | Rise: 20mm or 30mm | Dimensions: 8° back, 5° up | Rating: 10/10

• Two rise options
• Coloured decals supplied
• Tones down trail chatter and boosts comfort
• Matt anodised finish scuffed up quickly
• Only available in black

If you like the idea of the OneUp Carbon bar, but it’s a bit out of your price range, then the OneUp Aluminium handlebar will be right up your street. Available in two rises and a single 800mm width, it gets a shot-peened finish in stealth black, but there are stickers in the box to jazz it up.

Like the more expensive Carbon bar, it’s engineered to cut out some of the trail buzz that induces fatigue and can limit control. While it’s not as effective as the Carbon bar, it still does a remarkable job at reducing the volume of trail chatter. Jarring spikes are rounded off and it lets you charge into sections without getting spat into the weeds.

Read the full review of the OneUp Aluminium handlebar

The Race Face Next R handlebar has loads of space for lights and e-bike remotes

3. Race Face Next R handlebars

Best for crowded cockpits.

Weight: 218g | Width: 800mm  | Rise: 10, 20 or 35mm | Dimensions: 8° back, 5° up | Rating: 10/10

• Lots of room for controls
• Good ride feel
• Costs more than an alloy bar

Race Face always features among our list of top handlebars, and the Next R gets particular praise for its comfortable ride quality and extended control zones, useful if you have lots of remotes and clamps crowding the bar.

Compared an aluminium Race Face bar, you can feel the extra flex. The steering is still direct, but the extra compliance helps keep you fresh on long descents. With a comfortable shape and loads of colour options, this is a great finishing touch to a boutique build.

Read the full review of the Race Face Next R handlebars

Race Face Six C handlebar is so wide we couldn’t fit it all in the shot

4. Race Face SixC handlebar

Best option if you want a wide bar.

Weight: 239g | Width: 820mm | Rise: 20, 35mm | Dimensions: 8° back, 4° up | Rating: 9/10

• Plenty of precision
• Great vertical compliance
• Full 820mm width
• Minimum cut length is 770mm

Wide bars feel great on big DH bikes and heavy e-bikes, when you’re riding 30mph moto jump lines and wide-open DH tracks. Obviously they’re not so good for tight, tree-lined singletrack. But if you only ride the former, then the expansive Race Face SixC could be just the ticket. At 820mm wide it’s a beast. Yes, you can cut it down, but only to 770mm. Which might be too wide for some.

Despite the width, it’s pretty light. And really comfortable. In fact it’s almost as compliant as the OneUp Aluminium bar. Even if cutting it down will reduce this.

Read our full review of the Race Face SixC handlebar

Hope’s Carbon Handlebar is a work of art

5. Hope Carbon Handlebars 35mm

Most attractive carbon handlebar.

Weight: 224g | Width: 800mm | Rise: 20mm | Dimensions: 7° back, 5° up | Rating: 9/10

• Beautiful exposed weave finish
• Muted ride sensation
• Lacks back sweep
• Only one rise option

Hope is a rare breed in this day and age in that it actually makes its bars in-house, here in the UK. And what a work of art it is, with a stunning exposed weave that matches its artisan carbon frames. It’s the same facility that builds the ultra-exotic GB Olympic track bikes.

While a full 800mm wide, the backsweep is less than average, so might not suit some riders. But we found that the wider bar with the 35mm clamp diameter is actually more comfortable than the 31.8mm version. Expensive, but exotic.

Read our full review of the Hope Carbon Handlebar 35mm

The Race Face Atlas is built tough

6. Race Face Atlas

Best ultra-wide alloy bar.

Weight: 318g | Width: 820mm | Rise: 20 or 35mm | Dimensions: 8° back, 5° up | Rating: 9/10

• Super strong with long life expectancy
• Wide enough for all tastes
• Super gloss finish requires careful brake/shifter/dropper clamping
• Lacks angle-dangle markings for controls

Ultra-strong, but wafer-thin, the Race Face Atlas bar is perfect for anyone that shuns carbon and prioritises durability. At 820mm, there’s no skimping on width, either, even if we can’t think of many riders who want to run a bar this broad.

Still, all that extra leverage comes in handy on a burly e-bike. Available in a load of colours, we were impressed by the durability of the finish. Even if we’d like to see some more gradients in the control zones for setting up your brake levers.

Read our full review of Race Face Atlas handlebar

Best 31.8mm diameter handlebars

A little bit of moto-inspired coolness: The Renthal FatBar V2

1. Renthal FatBar V2

Best 31.8mm alloy handlebar.

Weight: 364g | Width: 800mm | Rise: 10, 20, 30 or 40mm | Dimensions: 7° back, 5° up | Rating: 9/10

• Modern classic that still cuts it
• Loads of rise options
• Not as wide as more modern offerings.

A modern classic handlebar. The blend of stiffness-to-flex is spot-on for all types of mountain biking. You don’t have to be railing World Cup downhills to get the benefits. And the iconic colour and logos make the perfect finishing touch to any custom build.

The Fatbar is not exactly light, but it’s beautifully made and really durable. You can also get it in a 35mm clamp version, and both diameters now come in a full 800mm width. Pair it with the Apex stem for a really solid and good-looking cockpit.

Read our full review of the Renthal FatBar handlebar

The Spank Spike 800 Vibrocore is not your regular hollow handlebar

2. Spank Spike 800 Vibrocore

Best for vibration reducing tech.

Weight: 330g | Width: 800mm | Rise: 15, 30, 50mm | Dimensions: 8° back, 4° up | Rating: 10/10

• Ideal for those looking for flatter grip angle
• Unique Vibrocore ‘filling’ genuinely reduces discomfort
• Graphics are a bit dated
• Shallow up-sweep can feel odd to some riders

In terms of stiffness, the Spike is solid and steers precisely, but there’s a distinctly deadened, dull sensation that’s similar, yet somehow different, to the feeling you get from the best-damped carbon bars. High frequency trail chatter was noticeably more muted, leaving our hands fresher and less sore at the bottom of tough descents.

How is this feeling achieved? Essentially by pumping the bar full of foam. No really. The essential idea here is that the foam can dissipate tiny vibration and chatter, leaving the metal handlebar being able to be made really stiff and inflexible. This Vibrocore foam buzz killing technology has since found its way into Spank’s other components (principally its wheel rims). And the Vibrocore filling only adds around 25g.

Read our full review of the Spank Spike 800 Vibrocore Race handlebar

Hope’s Carbon Handlebars are made right here in the UK

3. Hope Carbon Handlebar 31.8mm

Looks good and feels great.

Weight: 225g | Width: 780mm | Rise: 20mm | Dimensions: 7° back, 5° up | Rating: 8/10

• Rides even better than it looks
• UK made classy carbon
• One size only

No, you’re not seeing double. We did already list a Hope handlebar above in the shortlist of the best 35mm diameter handlebars. This bar here is the original 31.8mm version.

Carbon handlebars in the ‘old’ 31.8mm clamp size appear to be something of a dying breed, but this one is a good choice. For the money, a carbon bar isn’t the most costs effective way to save weight, but it’s a nice addition because it’s something you’re going to be looking at every time you ride. In that department, Hope’s Carbon riser is tough to beat. It looks stunning, but the high price (and lack of rise options) does count against it.

Read our full review of the Hope Carbon handlebars

What do I look for in the best mountain bike handlebars?

We’ve come a long way from the shoulder-width steerers of the nineties and modern geometry theorists will tell you that wide bars are the way to go. It’s always a question of personal preference though, and other factors include things like where you ride. Tight and twisty trails with loads of trees close together? You may prefer to go a little narrower…though still wider than the old days of mountain biking!

The perfect bar width varies depending on your build and the terrain you’re riding. Most people end up somewhere between 760mm and 800mm.

We think you should be aiming for at least 760mm. While this may seem extreme, in the majority of cases they will add a level of control and stability that can transform the way your bike rides. Plus, a wider bar doesn’t cost any extra and you can always cut it down.

The shape of a bar is dictated by three key measurements: rise, backsweep and upsweep. Rise is typical measured in millimetres — hence 20 or 30mm rise — and basically indicates the bar’s height.

If you’re tall and/or you’ve not changed your bar rise for several years but have moved on to longer and longer reach bikes, we’d strongly recommend going for a higher rise bar than you’ve used previously i.e. 35mm rise or higher.

Clamp diameters come in 31.8mm or 35mm

Clamp diameter

The majority of handlebars are 35mm or 31.8mm stem clamp diameter ie. they fit in a 31.8mm stem. You will need to also have/buy a stem to go with them so don’t forget to budget for that too when buying new bars, unless you already have one the right size.

Material choices

Carbon or aluminium

Aluminium or carbon is the choice. Aluminium is cheaper. Carbon is lighter. Carbon bars can be stiffer – some can even be uncomfortably stiff.

Obviously there is a spread of prices and materials here, which means there is something for every pocket. Carbon bars are pricy, but they are superbly made and you’re looking at roughly a 150 gram weight saving over the aluminium alternatives

What you’re looking for is a perfect balance between stiffness, comfort and resilience. If you can also get a bar that’s light and wide enough, then you’re probably looking at a winner.

The red lines indicate the upsweep (height) of the handlebars and the green lines the backsweep (depth) of them

Sweep angles

Backsweep and upsweep are measured in degrees and they affect the angle of the bit you hold.

Not all manufacturers produce bars in multiple rises, and you need to consider stem angle and bar rise together to achieve your perfect bar height. All of our favourite bars combine upsweep and backsweep, so we’d avoid any that are too flat or angled too far back.

Trim to width

Cut marks and reference marks

You should know how to get your controls at the same angle by eye, but to reduce the guesswork several manufacturers print reference marks on the bar.

Cut marks are a handy addition if you want to trim the bar and don’t own a tape measure. They also allow you to ignore the old maxim ‘measure twice, cut once.’

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How to Raise the Handlebars on a Trek Mountain Bike: A Step-by-Step Guide

Riding a mountain bike can be an exhilarating and fun experience, but if your handlebars are not comfortable or at the right height, it can quickly become a painful one. This is where raising the handlebars comes in. By adjusting the height of your handlebars, you can improve your comfort, posture and ultimately, your riding experience.

So, whether you’re looking to improve your mountain biking skills or simply make your rides more enjoyable, this step-by-step guide will walk you through the process of raising the handlebars on your Trek mountain bike. From identifying the type of stem your bike has to selecting the right tools, we’ve got you covered. Let’s dive in!

Table of Contents

Understanding the Importance of Proper Handlebar Height

When it comes to mountain biking, handlebar height is an essential factor in determining the rider’s comfort and performance on the bike. Proper handlebar height not only helps reduce the strain on your back and neck but also ensures a more relaxed and controlled grip on the bike’s handlebars, making it easier to navigate through challenging terrains.

Choosing the ideal handlebar height depends on various factors, including your riding style, body posture, and the type of terrain you ride on. If the handlebars on your Trek mountain bike are too low or too high, it can cause strain on your upper body and make it harder to control the bike. Therefore, it is crucial to understand the importance of proper handlebar height and how it can affect your overall mountain biking experience.

Read Also: How to Easily Take Off the Rear Wheel of Your Mountain Bike

Tools and Equipment Needed to Adjust Handlebar Height on a Trek Mountain Bike

To properly adjust the handlebar height on your Trek mountain bike, you will need a few tools and pieces of equipment. These items will make the process more manageable and ensure your handlebars are set to your desired height.

Firstly, you will need an Allen key or hex wrench. This tool is essential as it will aid in loosening and tightening the bolts on your stem and handlebars. You may use a multi-tool or specific hex wrenches of different sizes, depending on the bolts found on your bike. A torque wrench is also highly recommended as it allows you to tighten the bolts to the manufacturer’s recommended level rather than overtightening which can lead to potential damage. By having these tools, you can safely and efficiently make the necessary adjustments to your handlebars.

Steps for Adjusting the Stem to Raise the Handlebars

Adjusting the stem is an essential step to raise the handlebars on a Trek Mountain bike. Before starting the process, you need to locate the stem assembly first. The stem is the component that connects the handlebar to the fork steerer tube.

To raise the handlebars, you need to loosen the stem bolts. Most stems feature two bolts located on the top of the stem. Once you loosen the bolts, you can adjust the height of the stem according to your desired height level. After adjusting the height, tighten the bolts back in place. Ensure that the stem is secure and does not move around when you pull on the bars. Setting the height of the stem is crucial for the rider’s comfort and stability. Therefore, riders need to ensure that the stem is at a comfortable height to prevent back and neck pain when cycling.

You may also like: Best Race Hardtail Mountain Bikes: Top Picks for Aggressive Riders

Options for Adjusting Handlebar Height without Replacing the Stem

If you want to raise the handlebars on your Trek mountain bike without replacing the stem, there are a few simple options available to you. One of the easiest ways to adjust the handlebar height is by flipping the stem. To do this, simply loosen the bolts that secure the stem to the fork. Then, turn the stem over and reposition it on the fork. This method will raise your handlebars by about 2 inches.

Another option is to use spacers. If your stem is already flipped and you still need more height, you can add spacers between the stem and the handlebars. Typically, every spacer is about 5 millimeters thick, so adding several spacers can significantly raise the handlebars. However, remember that by using spacers you can only raise your handlebars about 1-2 inches maximum, so if you need more height, you should look into replacing the bike’s stem.

Tips for Testing and Fine-Tuning Handlebar Height for Maximum Comfort and Performance

Once you have successfully adjusted the handlebar height, it is essential to test and fine-tune the height for maximum comfort and performance. The first tip is to take your Trek mountain bike for a test ride on different terrains and inclines to determine how well you feel on the bike’s new setting. While riding, keep adjusting the handlebar height until you get to a comfortable position where you can maintain balance and control without straining your back or neck.

Another tip is to pay attention to the handlebar’s grip position. A comfortable handlebar grip can help reduce strain and fatigue in the hands and wrists. If necessary, adjust the handlebar height and angle, so you can find a comfortable grip that works for you. The goal is to ensure that you can easily maneuver through different terrains while minimizing body strain and maximizing performance. With these tips, you can fine-tune your handlebar height to make your Trek mountain bike ride more comfortable and enjoyable.

Understanding the Limits of Handlebar Adjustability on a Trek Mountain Bike

When it comes to adjusting the handlebars on your Trek mountain bike, it’s essential to understand the limits of your bike’s handlebar adjustability. While it’s possible to raise the height of your handlebars, there are some limitations that you need to be aware of. Exceeding these limitations can put you at risk of injury or damage to your bike.

First and foremost, you need to be aware of the maximum height at which your handlebars can be adjusted without compromising your bike’s handling. If you raise your handlebars too high, you may experience difficulty in steering your bike on tight turns and technical terrain. It’s essential to find a balance that provides adequate height while maintaining the bike’s stability and control. By understanding these limitations, you can ensure that your handlebar adjustments are safe and effective.

Related Post: Can You Put Aero Bars on a Mountain Bike: Everything You Need to Know

Potential Risks and Precautions When Raising Handlebars on a Trek Mountain Bike

When raising the handlebars on a trek mountain bike, there are potential risks and precautions that must be taken into consideration. The first risk is that the stem might become loose during the ride, which can lead to a loss of control of the bike, especially when downhill or on rough terrain. To avoid this, make sure that the stem bolts are tight and secure before taking the bike out on a ride.

Another potential risk of raising handlebars is that the headset may become overloaded and damaged. Overloading can occur when the stem height exceeds a certain limit, which can lead to a strain on the fork and headset bearings. To prevent this from happening, ensure that the stem is not raised beyond the manufacturer’s recommended level. Always make small adjustments each time and test ride the bike to detect any problems. If in doubt, consult a bike mechanic to get an expert opinion before making any changes to your bike’s setup.

Final Words

In conclusion, raising the handlebars on a Trek mountain bike can greatly increase your comfort level while riding. It is a fairly simple process that can be done with just a few tools and some patience. Remember to take your time and make small adjustments until you find the perfect height for your handlebars.

Additionally, it is important to remember that the height of your handlebars will affect your riding style and performance. As you adjust the height, pay attention to any changes in handling or comfort. Be sure to test ride your bike after making any adjustments to ensure that it is comfortable and safe for you to ride. With these tips, you can easily raise the handlebars on your Trek mountain bike and enjoy a more comfortable, enjoyable ride.

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Bike Finder

Results have arrived, mountain bike handlebars buyer's guide.

Here we’ll cover everything you need to know to choose the overall best handlebars for your mountain bike from carbon vs. aluminum, to flat bars vs. risers, and 35mm vs. 31.8mm.

Written by: Micah Ling

Published on: Jul 15, 2021

Posted in: Guides

SHOP HANDLEBARS

Handlebar material: The pros and cons

Mountain bike handlebars are almost always either aluminum alloy or carbon. On rare occasions, you’ll see titanium used as well. There are pros and cons to any material — here’s our breakdown:

• Extremely durable
• Inexpensive
• Less likely to have a catastrophic break — i.e. more likely to bend than break
• Heavier than carbon
• Less vibration dampening

SHOP ALLOY HANDLEBARS

• Lightweight
• Better dampening vibration
• Great for climbing
• Crashes can completely ruin the handlebars — more likely to crack or break than bend

SHOP CARBON HANDLEBARS

• Extremely strong
• Lasts a long time
• Less vulnerable to bends and breaks
• Not a wide variety to choose from

Handlebar shape: The rise and sweep

When we think of flat bars, we think of XC-oriented bikes. While flat bars don’t have an up sweep, they do usually have a bit of a back sweep, for a more comfortable grip. This more race-oriented set-up keeps your hand and body position low and allows a rider to be in a more forward position, ready for driving the pedals hard on climbs and sprinting.

High rise bars

Again, riser bars rise upward on each side. The major advantages here have to do with comfort. Adjustments can be made on riser bars so that hands are in a higher position, thus taking weight off the hands and creating a more comfortable, neutral or upright position. This position is good for navigating steep and technical downhills. But, going too high and reducing weight on the hands too much can also mean less traction when cornering or going over obstacles.

Handlebar width: What to consider

There are some tricks for determining the correct bar width like measuring your hand width in the pushup position or using a formula based on your height (world renowned coach Lee McCormack has suggested male riders multiply height in millimeters by 0.440 and female rider by 0.426 to find a good starting point for bar width), but the only way to really find your perfect width is through experimentation. Your shoulders, neck, back, and hands will tell you pretty quickly if your handlebars are the wrong width — they’ll cause discomfort, aches, and even numb spots. 

You can always make wide bars narrower by cutting them with a hacksaw and guide, but you can't make a bar that's too narrow wider. It's often a good idea to buy wider handlebars and trim them down if necessary to fit. Here are a few things to think about when you’re choosing your ideal mountain bike handlebars:

Your height

Body proportions have a lot to do with picking handlebars that feel comfortable. Not just overall height, but also torso length and reach. Keep in mind that the difference in flat or riser bars can have an impact on reach — basically how far you have to reach with your arms to hold the handlebars. This also has an effect on bar height and stem height. A good rule of thumb is to have your grips be level with your saddle — no more than 30-50mm above, depending on your height and proportions. Level with the saddle is considered a more aggressive / racey orientation, while higher is more relaxed and oriented toward downhill.

Terrain and riding style

Terrain and riding style have a lot to do with handlebar preference. If you’re riding tight XC singletrack, wider handlebars might not be the best pick because they make it more difficult to carve tight corners around switchbacks or maneuver through narrow gaps in trees.

But if you’re more interested in blasting over obstacles, and flying down steep descents, something a little wider will likely feel more stable. Wider bars give you more leverage to keep the front wheel under control when going fast and taking on roots and rock gardens.

Generally, wider handlebars = more control going down, and narrower handlebars = more maneuverability around twisty singletrack.

Handlebar shape: Expanding options

Standard straight bar.

Most mountain bikes still utilize the standard straight bar. There’s a huge range of options and tweaks that can be made to a traditional straight bar setup, so that you feel comfortable no matter your riding style, terrain, or body size.

Jones H-Bar

Drop bar mountain bikes? Yes. These bikes have road bike characteristics, but are made for playing on the trails. These are becoming more and more popular for mixed terrain riding, touring, and bikepacking. Plus there’s just something super fun about riding drop bars down singletrack. Examples of drop bar mountain bikes: -Salsa Fargo -Trek 920 -Kona Sutra ULTD -REEB Sam’s Pants

22.2mm grip: The only choice

The only decision you don’t have to make is about the grip diameter: Mountain bike handlebars come in only one width — 22.2mm. So all grips are interchangeable with any mountain bike handlebars out there.

Stem clamp diameter: The new and the old

35mm stem clamp.

More recently, an oversized 35mm clamp has become popular. It offers greater strength and stiffness. This diameter is also better for carbon bars because it provides a larger surface area for stem connection and thus lower clamping pressure. However, some find the larger diameter bars to ride a bit harsh

SHOP 35MM HANDLEBARS

31.8mm stem clamp

This is the more classic option, and many can’t feel the difference in stiffness or flex, especially if they’re not a larger rider. That being said, 31.8mm bars are often more comfortable than oversized 35mm bars so if your hand feel sore on chattery terrain, a less stiff 31.8mm bar can help. 

SHOP 31.8MM HANDLEBARS

The old standard is 25.4mm. You might encounter it on some vintage bikes, but it's not seen on modern mountain or road bikes.

Handlebar choice largely comes down to style of riding, terrain, and comfort. Here are some take-away points to consider depending on the kind of riding you’re most often doing:

Cross Country Bikes: You want to look at lower rise handlebars and longer stems, for steep climbs. It also might be worth looking at carbon handlebars because of the weight factor. With long climbs, the lightweight handlebars really pay off.

Trail/Enduro Bikes: You have the largest variety to choose from. Carbon might be worth it here as well, if you’re spending long days on the bike. Choose anything from 10mm to 35mm rise, depending on your preference / comfort.

Downhill Bikes: You can look at either carbon or aluminum, though downhill bikes see the most abuse, so aluminum might be the safer, more economical choice. You’ll likely want to choose the highest rise bars, which help you get your weight back over the rear wheel.

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How to Raise Handlebars on Trek Mountain Bike

Last Updated on March 10, 2022

Trek is one of the biggest and most popular bike manufacturers in the globe. And there’s a good chance you might ride one!

If so, you might have asked yourself how to raise handlebars on Trek mountain bike . Well, you’ve just found the perfect place.

Because here, we’ll show you the right way on how to raise handlebars on Trek mountain bike . We’ll also tell you the tools needed and some tips to adjust your handlebar.

Table of Contents

Tools needed

• Torque wrench

Related: What Mountain Bike Tools Do I Need

How to add headset spacers?

The best way to raise your bike’s handlebar is to add spacers. The first thing to do is to place your bike on your workstation stand.

Make sure that the wheels are firm on the ground. Then slowly loosen the clamp bolts on your stem’s rear area. Add a bit of grease on the top cap’s bolt. This is important to avoid seizing especially if you always ride on gnarly trails.

The next thing to do is to remove the top cap. This is the one that sits directly above the stem’s top part. Then slowly slide the stem away from the steerer tube. You’ll see that it’s like how the bolt and top cap looks like.

Thread these into a star nut. This holds them in place and ensures it won’t topple off when hitting jumps and drops.

But you need to use a bung if you have a carbon handlebar. This is an expanding wedge which makes the adjustment process easier and more accurate.

Decide how many centimeters you’ll raise your handlebar. You need to add more spacers if you want to have a very high handlebar. You’ll usually need 2 or 3 additional spacers if you ride downhill trails.

This provides better maneuverability and control when tackling technical sections. Add a bit of grease so that the two surfaces won’t rub and damage each other. Then slowly slide the stem directly into your steerer tube.

Make sure there’s enough gap between your stem, spacer, and steerer tube. This gap usually measures around 3 to 5 mm. This ensures that there is enough space for the top cap headset to clamp back on your headset bearing.

It also allows the headset to preload. Then slowly palace the bolt and top cap on top of the stem. Tighten it until you feel some kind of resistance. But make sure it’s not too tight as this can break your stem. It’s best if you use a torque wrench to get the right tightness.

The next thing to do is to align your stem with your front wheel. This ensures that the handlebar is at your wheel’s right angle. It also makes it easier for you to straddle on the bike’s top tube. This makes your ride more controllable and comfortable, especially if you always ride downhill.

Get your torque wrench once you’ve aligned the stem and front wheel. Use the torque wrench to clamp the bolts back to the bar.

We recommend you set the torque around 5 to 8 Nm. This isn’t tight or loose, but just right. This is important because a very tight stem might break your handlebar especially if it’s carbon.

Then check the adjustment of your headset. Hold your front brake with one hand, while the other is on your headset. Then slowly rock the handlebar sideways and back and forth.

Get a feel of the rocking motion to see if it’s installed properly. Loosen the clamp bolts again if you feel any rocking motion. Then tighten the top cap bolt again. You’ll usually need just a quarter turn. Then use your torque wrench to tighten the bolts again.

How to flip the stem on a Trek mountain bike?

The most popular way to raise your handlebars is to add spacers. But if these aren’t enough, then you can just flip the stem. This changes the bar height because the shape of the stem is upside down.

Note that most stems are in a positive position which creates an upward angle. But you can flip it so it goes the other way around. Unbolt the handlebar from the stem’s front part. Make sure that both your bike’s wheels are on the ground so it won’t move.

We also recommend putting it on a workstation stand to secure it in place. Remember the angle of the handlebar and brake lever. This is important so you can keep your preferred angle later.

Use masking tape to mark the handlebar and face plate’s original angle. This will help you get the correct angle when refitting. Then undo the bolts which connect the handlebar to the stem’s frontal section. Remove the faceplate of the stem.

Then slowly release the handlebar and let it gently drop to the side. Then follow the steps mentioned above on how to add spacers. Flip the stem that is off the bike and slide it back to its original place on the steerer tube.

Reinstall the handlebar and follow the original angle of the handlebar and brake lever. Tighten the stem to the recommended torque. This is usually around 5 to 8 Nm. Make sure that all bolts are tightened evenly so there’s no gap.

This is very important, so your cockpit won’t rattle and get loose when you jump your bike . There should also be an even gap from top to bottom. The handlebar is pinched if the gap isn’t even. This can damage the bars if left unfixed in the long run.

Knowing how to raise handlebars on Trek mountain bike is important. Not only does this ensure that you are comfortable on your ride. But it also gives better control and safety.

The steps on how to raise handlebars on Trek mountain bike isn’t really difficult. In fact, it’s easy as long as you follow the right steps!

Just remember to take good care of your bike, use the right tools, and ride safely. When you do, then you’ll surely have a fun time riding your Trek mountain bike.

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All-new Trek Emonda ALR takes lightweight frame tech to alloy models

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When Trek announced their Emonda carbon road bike line , they backed up their “world’s lightest” claims with an impressive frame and fork and an even more impressive 10.25lb (4.6kg) complete bike. Now, they’re adding an alloy Emonda ALR option that’s also lightweight yet far more affordable.

To earn the Emonda badge, the frame uses their top-level 300-series Alpha Aluminum that’s been hydroformed into size specific tubes, then welded together using a no-see technique that produces smooth joints that use less material to save weight.

The process is called Invisible Weld Technology, which they say produces stronger, stiffer welds despite using less material. Video, pics and more details below…

Trek told us the unpainted frame is 1050g (56), and a painted fork is 358g w/240mm steerer.

Like the ultralight Emonda carbon models, the ALR uses their H2 race geometry, E2 tapered headtube (standard 1-1/8″ to 1-1/2″) and wide Pressfit BB 86.5, meaning this bike is made to go fast. Other frame details include a braze-on front derailleur mount (no need to add a clamp if you’re getting the frameset) and external cable routing.

We’ve requested a more technical description of the welding process (update as we get it), but the frame is only part of the story. The complete bikes come equipped with built-in extras like the a Blendr stem with integrated light/computer mount, and it has Duotrap S compatibility (their ANT+/Bluetooth 4.0 speed/cadence sensor, sold separately for about $60).

You also get a complete group, so the Emonda ALR 6 with Ultregra gets a full Ultegra group from chain to brakes to cassette and everything else. There are no mis-matched parts or down spec’d bits to cut costs. A full carbon fiber tapered fork completes the package.

The Emonda ALR will initially come in two builds, the “6” with full Ultegra, Bontrager Race tubeless ready wheels with R2 tires, and a Bontrager cockpit with alloy short reach/drop bar and carbon seatpost for $2,249.99. Our local Trek Bike Store says complete bike weight is claimed at 17.25lb (7.82kg).

The Emonda ALR 5 drops down to a full Shimano 105 group with non-series Bontrager tubeless ready alloy wheels, R1 tires and a full alloy Bontrager cockpit for $1,759.99. Claimed weight is 18.77lb (8.51kg), colors will be the gloss black/hi-viz yellow and blue shown here, plus a racing red coming soon.

The frameset shares the same paint scheme as the “6” and comes with an FSA sealed cartridge bearing headset for $989.99. The frames have a lifetime warranty carrying a 275lb rider weight limit.

Just for fun, here’s the companion lifestyle video.

All three models shown here are available now and should hit stores soon. Our sources tell us there’ll also be an Emonda ALR 5 with Tiagra, an ALR 8 with Dura-Ace mechanical and ALR 9 with Dura-Ace Di2 coming soon. That last model suggests they’ll have an electronic-only frame, too, since these first models only have external cable routing. At the very top, in terms of light weight anyway, will be the ALR 10 with a full SRAM Red group.

TrekBikes.com

Tyler Benedict is the Founder of Bikerumor.com , where he’s been writing about the latest bikes, components, and cycling technology for almost two decades. Prior to that, Tyler launched and built multiple sports nutrition brands and consumer goods companies, mostly as an excuse to travel and ride in new places.

Based in North Carolina, Tyler also loves the Vanlife & family adventure travel and is always on the lookout for the next shiny new part and off-grid adventure.

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looks like a rebadged Allez

The invisible welding looks a lot like what pretty much every other company calls smooth welding. And has been using for years. You weld the tube normally then go back over it without filler material and “reweld” it. The process smooths out the weld and helps it wet out. REVOLUTIONARY TREK!!!

Interesting that they are using hydroformed tubes but didn’t choose the aero tube shapes of the Madone design.

@Robert W – my sources say the Madone is on the way out. & if the story is about weight vs. areo it would make sense to mimick the emonda shapes. Also, the 2 series aluminum frames are already Madone-esqe.

I always find it funny that companies state how they’ve extensively optimized tube shapes for their flagship carbon fiber bikes, but then seemingly can successfully apply those shapes to materials with very different properties. There is a little marketing lie in their somewhere.

Anyway. Glad to see these Al bikes. CF has been getting too pricey fort me.

I like how they quote an unpainted frame weight, then only offer it in a painted variety. But lets also make sure we pair that unpainted weight with a painted fork weight.

Looks legit. Seeing they are coming out of the Giant factory why not put on the overdrive 2 fork and stem and really take it next level?

Aluminum, how quaint.

Why not sell them unpainted if they weight them unpainted? JBikes if I read you right what your saying is the shapes have far mo9re to do with design than engineering.all thes tube shapes are probaly coming from kitchen appliance design firm and they bs riders who rarely go over 20mph that aero is worth buying a new bike for

That Bontrager cycling kit is pretty damn nice. “Understated” as the hipsters like to say.

How about US made aluminum, with giant tubes, some internal routing, and some really funky paint jobs. Oh wait…

Hasn”t specialized already been doing this for like 3 years now? And better welded joints? Revolutionary-nothing is more like it, just another slightly modified copy frame.

Roy – no I was just commenting on the fact it’s stated how non aero tube shapes are optimized for carbon fiber for whatever properties (stiffness, weight, ride) but then a vastly different material can achieve the same with the same tube shapes? I’m sure they vary material thickness and such, but given the vast difference in CF and Al, I’d think tube shapes would vary more between the two materials, unless the CF and Al frames ride completely different.

Jesus, tough crowd. Lightweight aluminum, full component groups and small price tags… Sounds good to me.

Full Ultegra! Well… except the wheels. Of which, the Bontrager Race spec is a few notches below Ultegra…

y’all are haters. you can pick on the marketing and on random bits and pieces but in the end this is the bike you’re going to start seeing at all the local crits and races. So they have weird marketing, worry about the bike and what it can do for you.

Aluminum is the new carbon.

Yeah a bunch of haters here, Go buy a Specialized because they are not owned by the big man, Oh wait, Specialized is own by a conglomerate, and Trek is family owned. Seems like most people don’t understand the definition of “the man” Don’t hate on them just because you don’t like it that more people ride Trek than any other brand in the US.

@Durianrider, you’re killing me! Lol

When you think about it, it’s a bike people actually look for: Workhorse, and the no-nonsense but clean aesthetic.

Considering the Propel SLR might not come stateside, as well as the update TCR SLR before it, it’s nice to have another potential alloy option on the market that isn’t an Allez or CAAD.

I really like where Trek is going with their new paint schemes. Very minimal branding and no stupid racing stripes and decals. Keep it premium!

Jbikes: I understand why you’re asking about why two frames with different materials have the same tube shapes, but in fact they probably should have the same shapes.

In the bike industry (and many others), it’s common practice to design using isotropic material properties (e.g., with aluminum) for a first pass. The resulting stiffness (quantified through FEA) ensures you’re getting the most sectional modulus you can out of a given tube shape. Only then do you go back and design a laminate schedule with anisotropic materials (e.g., carbon fiber).

This allows the designer to clearly separate the modulus (stiffness) due to tube shape and the modulus due to the laminate schedule. That way, each can be optimized as a discrete step.

Except for a few corner cases, optimal frame tube shape is material-independent. Surprising but true!

Looks like a great bike at a good price. I love nice aluminum race bikes. But why no H1 geometry option? It irks me that companies (not just Trek) spec the really race oriented stuff at the high-end of the price scale. I know a short head tube doesn’t work for everyone but why not give us the option? What does the size of your wallet have to do with your flexibility?

I’m wondering if some of the frames are anodized, so unpainted weight would be pretty relevant.

JasonK – thanks! Great info. Never really thought of it that way but it makes sense.

I like the emonda and the CrossRip frame for my commuter. I would seriously consider if I was in the market and carbon was not an option.

Man that’s a light frame. Nice to see they are using full groupset specs.

I wonder if the welding is a form of aluminium brazing using a lower melting temperature brazing rod. I think this is what Shimano do with the external reinforcing tabs on the aluminium rims. This is supposed to be lower strength than welding but coming up with some newer technology is not beyond Trek’s resources. Or maybe they have come up with a way to modify the pulse action of a TIG welder with a certain filler wire application. Either way, the old double pass method for aluminium is old hat now.

Most companies claim unpainted frame weights. Use this general guide: If a company says “…painted frame weight is…” then it’s including paint. If they don’t specifically say painted then you can guarantee it’s an unpainted frame weight.

The only reason I wouldn’t buy one of these is the head tube is too tall…

I applaud Trek for coming out with a ‘light’ and ‘inexpensive’ aluminum frameset but I’m still not sold on the H2 geometry.

Sincerely, Worlds longest head tube.

I like the option of a high end aluminum frame as well….but this one misses the mark for me because trek refuses to make any bike with its “racer” H1 geometry that doesn’t cost at least 4,500 for a frameset. If they only would make H1 options of their emonda sl frame or this new all I’d buy one in a second. Trek already makes a million bike models….why not better fit options? Ever since they did away with the 6 series madone the options for the budget conscious racer have gone to zero. Bleh. And more seatmast length options trek!

Nearly the same weight as a Cannondale frame that was first manufactured out of the same material about 6 years ago

I think this will make a GREAT race frame.

Certainly beats trying to replace a carbon frame someone broke for you in that ‘last corner of the criterium’ crash.

If I see one more I’m-so-flexible-I-can-stick-my-head-up-my-ass comment about the lack of H1 geometry, I might give up trolling comments on bike rumor all together. Seriously, 5 years at a Trek dealer and we sold maybe 3 H1 bikes (all as special order). We ordered dozens more project 1 bikes in the ‘normal’ H2. Working now at a Cervelo dealer I have very few people balk at the head tube height, and MOST are running a positive angle on the stem anyways. At 6’3″ I run 14cm of bar drop. I have had zero issue getting a proper fit on stock bikes, including Trek. Currently on the newly updated (i.e. market norm) stack of the 2015 Cervelo S5 I still have 15mm of spacers under my stem. If H2 geo just doesn’t do it for you, grab a Cannonade with a low profile headset cap and go ride. They are making a bike for the largest market, obviously the budget racers this bike is designed for are too busy riding their bikes to complain on Bike Rumor…..

Looks like a great bike for the money and your avg rider. Nothing wrong with that. Kudos too for specing a complete group build, awesome!

Waiting for my ALR 5 to arrive!! Last bike I bought was in 1986, a Myata One Ten. Hopefully this one will last another 29 years.

uhhh… the allez actually looks good

http://www.specialized.com/us/en/bikes/road/allez/allez-comp-race

the only thing actually missing from these frames are some colorway options like the tarmacs

i had a domane and the headtube was too tall.

i might get one of these. its pretty affordable all things considered.

There doesn’t seem too much, if anything at all, to complain about here. The Emonda ALR frame MSRP is right in line with a CAAD10 frame MSRP ($10 cheaper actually). It looks good, and it’s certainly not a heavyweight bike. If it rides as good as it looks, it will be a great deal.

@MikeC – Are you kidding? I haven’t seen anyone refer to a full groupset as including the wheel since like 1999. Some people are just desperate to find something to bitch about. The Bontrager Race wheels are great. They only weigh 200g more than the Ultegras, and unlike every Shimano wheel, they are specced completely with off-the-shelf parts that are easily purchasable in any bike shop.

@Adam – Yes, because Cannondale were the first company with an aluminum racing bike. You forget the Trek, via Klein, were making awesome lightweight aluminum race bikes when Cannondale was still welding together soda cans.

@H1 Lovers – You’re all on crack. A quarter of the Trek pros don’t even ride the H1, and I promise you that you are not that fast. I can also tick off a list of local heroes, Cat 1 and PRO dudes, who get by just fine on the H2, usually preferring it to the H1.

@Psi – And the Trek is clearly much better specced than the Cannondale, with an Ultegra crank and Bontrager Race wheels, not to mention a cockpit that won’t require immediate replacement.

Wait to you see the next gen cannondale frame before you jump on this..

I am happy this exists. Buyers beware if you crash this thing it’s probably going to dent up like tinfoil.

@badbikemechanic – What makes you say that? There is a generation of high end aluminum out there that holds up just fine to the rigors of daily life. I personally have an aluminum Allez that I regularly leave locked up outside of bars, the grocery store, as well as race, and it hasn’t even scratched the anodized finish yet.

As always, opinions abound….and everyone is “right.” The H1 vs. H2 debate is clearly a hotter topic than I thought. What it boils down to though is “choice.”

Trek offers the option, meaning there are people that prefer it. I rode a 60 cm H1 Madone 6 series last year, and absolutely loved it. Sadly it was a team bike and I had to give it back at the end of the year. In looking for a replacement I want a bike with similar geometry, but don’t want to spend 4,500 to have the OPTION to get the geometry I like. The head tube on the H1 is 18 cm…compared with 21 cm on the H2. That is a LARGE difference. I don’t think anyone is right or wrong to ride whatever geometry they like. All I’m saying is that for me…the H1 geometry is perfect, and I don’t need to run a -17 stem to get my preferred position of the bike. Being a pro, being fast or slow, is irrelevant. I would just like to see the option available at a reasonable price point.

These bikes are epic. And yes, they blow the competition out of the water.

About time Trek offers something for the Joe-Racers out there. Yes, carbon is super nice but you guess what: so is aluminum. I have a locally-made Aluminum bike and it rides *amazing*. So did my old Caad7 and I bet Specialized’s aluminum bike is also fantastic. We need more people in the sport, and to do that we need a much lower entry-level bar. if for $2,200 you get a nice Al Trek with good geometry, good wheels (i own the bontis tlr and they’re indestructible and readily serviceable), good parts and cockpit that are either race-ready or hammer-ready, then god bless Trek. For the record i own a cannondale six and it’s a phenomenal bike. but my aluminum rig is my favorite. way to go, Trek – kudos indeed.

Arguing that “some pros ride H2, therefore nobody needs H1” is well, just a poor excuse for an argument. An H1 aluminum Emonda would be a hit, and I would purchase one as soon as it were available. I’ve owned and ridden both H1/H2 models, and greatly prefer the H1. As an aside, direct mount breaks on this beast would be the icing on the cake. Think about it Trek.

This bike compared with the new caad 12 is nothing …

I’ve got a current model year Allez smartweld frame built up with full 105 and tubeless Shimano wheels. I certainly didn’t do it for $1760 retail, but then some parts on my bike (bars, saddle, tires) are from a very much higher trim level. I’ve also got all the accessories (cages, tools, &c) in my price, and I was unable to use the economy of scale a manufacturer can.

ANYWAY. The ride quality of my Allez is nothing short of amazing considering. It is *as smooth* as my steel 3-speed with 38mm tires over brick roads. I have no problems riding the Allez a hundred miles, though I run out of water. The Allez smartweld is making me completely re-think aluminum as a frame material, especially for amateur racer types.

These Treks seem to DIRECTLY compete with the Allez smartweld introduced last year, which is great, since it engenders competitive designs. When you get an Allez Comp (with 105), you pay less, but you miss out on the excellent 5800 brakes and crankset, and get bog standard training wheels. Moving up to an Allez Expert (with Ultegra), gets you a full groupset with carbon SL-K crank and ‘Fulcrum’ wheels at a competitive price.

I’d love to ride these Treks back to back with my Allez.

I am happy to see Trek jump into the “high end” aluminum market. I have owned & loved several iterations of CAAD’s. I have also read good things about Specialized redesigned Allez frames. I am now hearing of a redesigned CAAD12(?) to be released later this Summer…(anyone else hearing any details?) I would have liked to have seen a disc version from Trek… (Spec as well.) I believe that road disc offerings from every manufacturer will increase exponentially once the pro’s are riding them. I wanted my next road bike purchase to have discs so that I can look for second set of wheels that will be future proof…(thru-axles coming next?) I had my eye this year’s CAAD10 Rival disc, hoping the boys at Cannondale offer an Ultegra disc spec on the CAAD12 later this year. 🙂

Just ordered my alr 6 today! I work at a trek dealer, and I have to say H2 is usually great for 99% of our customers, and they usually have the stem flipped up. For the 1% of people that actually want that huge bar drop, you can always size down and make it look super pro with a longer stem! Nothing wrong with that!

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Loved the world over, the Marlin has long held the hearts of new riders and seasoned rippers alike, and to keep everyone rolling with ear-to-ear grins we’ve revamped it with more trail confidence than ever. Whether zipping through town, dipping your toes into the trail for the first time or slicing through switchbacks as a well-seasoned rider, you’ll appreciate the sleek new frame that ups the capability and brings looks to match. There’s a reason why it’s always been your favourite.

Total trail confidence A bike's geometry is the defining framework it's built on, and the Marlin is a true mountain bike at it's core. Its measurements are perfectly dialled to give you a confidence-inspiring, planted feel when you’re rolling down steep and bumpy trails, while keeping it easy to pedal back to the top when you’re ready for another lap.

Marlin’s head tube (a) sits at a slacker (more acute) angle. The slacker head tube angle (b) moves your front wheel further in front of you. Take it to the trail, and this slacker head tube angle (b) boosts stability and control for confidence when descents get steep and rowdy.

To balance a slacker head tube angle (b) , the Marlin features a steeper (more upright) seat tube angle (d) . A steeper seat tube (c) lets you get the most out of every pedal stroke, so you don’t waste power on the climb to the top.

The Marlin is equipped with a short stem and wider handlebar for more direct control and responsiveness when you’re manoeuvring through rocks and roots. Meanwhile, a longer reach (e) gives you extra stability so you can ride faster and more confidently.

Secure your ride

A new Thru-Skew axle provides better rear wheel security, holding your wheel in place snugly and ensuring it doesn't slip out of the frame, even when you're rolling through rough-and-tumble terrain.

Fully guarded

Full-length, full-coverage guards on the chainstay protect your frame and keep your ride quiet.

Float on the trail

Big 2.4˝ tyres elevate traction, so you stay planted on dusty switchbacks. But not only do bigger tyres give you more grip — they also soak up bumps for a smoother ride.

Upgrade ready

With a frame this nice, you won’t want to part ways with your Marlin as your skills grow. The Marlin Gen 3 is upgrade-ready, so you can upgrade your bike when you upgrade your skills. New internal cable routing lets you install a dropper post – and sizes XS and up can be upgraded to a bigger 120 mm fork when you’re ready to take on bigger trails.

A bike for everyone We believe that every rider deserves a well-fitted bike, that’s why the Marlin is available in every size from XXS to XXL – and even an 'extra-medium' size for riders who fall in between a medium and large. Each size is tuned to its riders, with Smart Wheel Sizing that scales the wheel size with the bike size, so every rider has comfortable standover height. Smaller, XXS and XS frames also feature a curved top tube to boost confidence and make getting on and off a breeze.

• Shop XS bikes

Make Marlin yours Whether you’re regularly ripping up the trail or a rugged city commuter, your Marlin can be fully customised with a treasure-trove of accessories. From kickstands and grips to bottle cages and bags, you can turn your Marlin into the perfect bike for your everyday ride.

• Deck out your Marlin

Trek warranty and backing We believe that when you put your heart and soul into something, you should have the stomach to back it up. That’s why we stand behind all Trek bikes with a limited-lifetime warranty. From your first ride to your 500th, we’ll be here for you in the unlikely event that something goes wrong with your Marlin. All you have to do is pop into your local Trek retailer and you’ll find all the support you need to get back spinning in no time.

The Marlin family Both generations of Marlins are true mountain bikes aimed at the rider who wants a versatile hardtail capable of off-road singletrack or in-city missions. Both generations have a 100 mm travel suspension fork and 29” wheels on most sizes except for smaller sizes with proportionate suspension travel and wheels, thus making it a great bike for shorter riders as well.

Marlin Gen 2

Get all-around versatility on Marlin Gen 2. It fits up to 2.2˝ tyres, and features balanced, neutral geometry that keeps you comfortable and in control as you venture off-road.

Marlin Gen 3

Get serious trail capability with Marlin Gen 3’s bigger, 2.4˝ tyre clearance, internal dropper post routing and a stiffer, more secure ThruSkew rear axle. Plus, its updated longer, slacker geometry gives you a boost in stability on steeper trails and at higher speeds.

Looking for something more to fill your singletrack appetite?

If you’re itching for a lighter weight, even faster hardtail, the X-Caliber is your ride. It’s light, sleek and efficient – perfect for new riders, cross-country racers and anyone who wants to cover a lot more trail miles in a lot less time.

The Roscoe delivers the capability of a full suspension trail bike in a simple hardtail package. The laid-back geometry that gives you tons of stability on rowdier trails, and it rolls on big 2.6˝ tyres that give tons of traction for getting through rough and tricky sections of trail.