tobago tourism news

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Inside the Cayman Islands’ Sleek New Hotel Indigo, the First One in the Caribbean 

What’s Next for Tourism in Tobago?

Tobago like other Caribbean islands have been economically impacted by the Covid-19 pandemic, however stakeholder consultation and collaboration is “key to the rebound of the tourism sector.”

That’s according to newly appointed Tobago House of Assembly Tourism Secretary Tashia Burris, who told Caribbean Journal recently that she has been in office approximately two months and has spent the greater part of that time in direct stakeholder engagement to better assess the environment in which the office operates.

“Additionally, as the formal stakeholder engagement series winds down, a larger cross-industry meeting will be held where the data I have collated from the individual engagements will be presented and then we will agree tentatively on key points that will serve as the pillars upon which the rejuvenation plan will stand,” she said. “I also look forward to regular open dialogue with industry stakeholders to ensure that plans and policies are relevant and effective.”

The 36-year-old tourism secretary, said that during her meetings with the Tobago Hotel & Tourism Association (THATA) and the Tobago Tourism Agency Limited (TTAL) in January, covered areas of focus for the way forward, including the reestablishment of the tourism standing committee, enhanced domestic marketing and ongoing conversations towards standards & regulations and increased airlift.

With regards to upgrades on hotel room stock on the island, she said this was critical to any product throughout the tourism life cycle, as enhanced and increased quality room stock offerings will translate into growth and expansion of the industry.

“This area of product development is one that we recognize as crucial and as such, through the Tobago Tourism Agency, we continue to facilitate for accommodation providers on the island the Tourism Accommodation Upgrade Program which is a tourism incentive project that provides a partial reimbursement to eligible tourism accommodation properties for upgrade work. Of course, we are also focused on doing the necessary work and collaborations to attract foreign direct investment in this regard as well,” the tourism secretary said.

Burris said she had no updates on the $74 million Marriott-branded hotel in Rocky Point, which is expected to be constructed by 2025.

“When that announcement was made by the last administration, there were no submissions from the developers for environmental clearance and other necessary approvals and to date, as far as I am aware, those requests for approvals are still outstanding,” she said.

The pandemic has shown the world that the way of doing business and attracting investment must be done differently and it’s against this background, that Ms. Burris identified that both the Division and the Tobago Tourism Agency Limited must now focus more intentionally on the island’s domestic market (Trinidad).

“Indeed, our largest source market at this time for leisure is our neighboring sister isle and this must be taken into account during this pandemic as we design new marketing efforts and strategically chart the rebound of the sector,” she said.

International travel only reopened last month after almost two years.

That included the return of British Airways and Virgin Atlantic, which both resumed flights twice weekly to the island.

“The resumption of the international flights has seen us experiencing stable international arrival numbers on each flight since their return to Tobago,” she said.

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Quiz: find the best country for you », tobago's tourism, fishing hit as oil slick spreads across caribbean.

Tobago's Tourism, Fishing Hit as Oil Slick Spreads Across Caribbean

Workers of Oil Mop Environmental Services (OMES) suction oil from a spill at Magdalena Grand Resort, in Tobago Island, Trinidad and Tobago, February 16, 2024. REUTERS/Clement George Williams

By Curtis Williams

SCARBOROUGH, Tobago (Reuters) -Nine days after a slick was first spotted by Trinidad and Tobago's Coast Guard, an oil leak from a capsized barge remains unplugged, according to first responders and authorities, prompting nations across the Caribbean to coordinate a response.

The spill has spread miles from Tobago's shore, the area first hit by the incident. Trinidad this week alerted neighbors Venezuela and Grenada on possible impact to their coasts.

The Caribbean Disaster Management Agency, dependent on regional group Caricom, has activated a contingency plan, the head of Tobago's Emergency Management Agency (TEMA), Allan Stewart, said on Friday.

A barge pulled by a tugboat caused the spill, but details of the incident remain unclear, including the type of petroleum leaking, the ship's intended destination, owner and if any members of the crew were lost.

By Thursday, the slick had reached about 144 km (89 miles) into the Caribbean Sea and was moving at a rate of 14 km (9 miles) per hour, authorities said.

"This looks like it will continue for a few weeks. I cannot simply sit down and do nothing," said Edwin Ramkisson, who makes a living fishing for snapper and salmon in Lowlands, on Tobago's Atlantic shore. "I need help cleaning my boat before moving to another port on the Caribbean side."

The barge is believed to have carried as much as 35,000 barrels of fuel oil, Tobago's officials have said. The spill has blackened the island's beaches, affecting wildlife and tourism.

Several beach and golf resorts in Tobago that typically receive foreign tourists have been forced to close access to the ocean. The nearby Scarborough cruise ship port is being protected from the spill by containment booms.

Trinidad is considering declaring a Tier 3 emergency that would allow it to obtain foreign assistance to deal with the spill, Prime Minister Keith Rowley told Parliament on Friday.

First responders and volunteers in Tobago have so far collected about 2,000 barrels of oil, but the island is short of protective equipment for volunteers and crews, TEMA said.

The Trinitarian government's next task is to empty the vessel in a controlled operation. "The vessel is, as of now, still stuck on the reef at Cove and continues to pose a major threat as it continues to foul the coastline and surrounding seas," Rowley said.

The twin-island nation's government said the ship's origin was Panama and it was bound for Guyana. However, monitoring service TankerTrackers.com has said the barge-tugboat combo was seen in satellite photos near Venezuela's Puerto La Cruz refinery in late January, and it was headed to St. Vincent and Grenadines days before the spill.

Venezuela's oil minister Pedro Tellechea told reporters on Friday the vessel "has nothing to do" with state oil company PDVSA or Venezuela, but the country is collaborating with Trinidad's investigation including the oil's type.

Brazil also has offered help, Trinidad's government said. Grenada did not reply to a request for comment.

(Reoprting by Curtis Williams in Scarborough and Tibisay Romero in Yagua, Venezuela; Writing by Marianna Parraga; Editing by Bill Berkrot, Kirsten Donovan)

Copyright 2024 Thomson Reuters .

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Tags: Panama , Guyana , environment , United States , Grenada , Trinidad and Tobago , pollution

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Tobago's tourism, fishing hit as oil slick spreads across Caribbean

By Curtis Williams

SCARBOROUGH, Tobago (Reuters) -Nine days after a slick was first spotted by Trinidad and Tobago's Coast Guard, an oil leak from a capsized barge remains unplugged, according to first responders and authorities, prompting nations across the Caribbean to coordinate a response.

The spill has spread miles from Tobago's shore, the area first hit by the incident. Trinidad this week alerted neighbors Venezuela and Grenada on possible impact to their coasts.

The Caribbean Disaster Management Agency, dependent on regional group Caricom, has activated a contingency plan, the head of Tobago's Emergency Management Agency (TEMA), Allan Stewart, said on Friday.

A barge pulled by a tugboat caused the spill, but details of the incident remain unclear, including the type of petroleum leaking, the ship's intended destination, owner and if any members of the crew were lost.

By Thursday, the slick had reached about 144 km (89 miles) into the Caribbean Sea and was moving at a rate of 14 km (9 miles) per hour, authorities said.

"This looks like it will continue for a few weeks. I cannot simply sit down and do nothing," said Edwin Ramkisson, who makes a living fishing for snapper and salmon in Lowlands, on Tobago's Atlantic shore. "I need help cleaning my boat before moving to another port on the Caribbean side."

The barge is believed to have carried as much as 35,000 barrels of fuel oil, Tobago's officials have said. The spill has blackened the island's beaches, affecting wildlife and tourism.

Several beach and golf resorts in Tobago that typically receive foreign tourists have been forced to close access to the ocean. The nearby Scarborough cruise ship port is being protected from the spill by containment booms.

Trinidad is considering declaring a Tier 3 emergency that would allow it to obtain foreign assistance to deal with the spill, Prime Minister Keith Rowley told Parliament on Friday.

First responders and volunteers in Tobago have so far collected about 2,000 barrels of oil, but the island is short of protective equipment for volunteers and crews, TEMA said.

The Trinitarian government's next task is to empty the vessel in a controlled operation. "The vessel is, as of now, still stuck on the reef at Cove and continues to pose a major threat as it continues to foul the coastline and surrounding seas," Rowley said.

The twin-island nation's government said the ship's origin was Panama and it was bound for Guyana. However, monitoring service TankerTrackers.com has said the barge-tugboat combo was seen in satellite photos near Venezuela's Puerto La Cruz refinery in late January, and it was headed to St. Vincent and Grenadines days before the spill.

Venezuela's oil minister Pedro Tellechea told reporters on Friday the vessel "has nothing to do" with state oil company PDVSA or Venezuela, but the country is collaborating with Trinidad's investigation including the oil's type.

Brazil also has offered help, Trinidad's government said. Grenada did not reply to a request for comment.

(Reoprting by Curtis Williams in Scarborough and Tibisay Romero in Yagua, Venezuela; Writing by Marianna Parraga; Editing by Bill Berkrot, Kirsten Donovan)

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Tobago Tourism Agency launches “Mask On Tobago” contest

Posted Apr 07, 2021

The Tobago Tourism Agency Limited (TTAL) launched a “Mask On Tobago” social media contest ahead of the busy Easter weekend, in their latest initiative to encourage the use of masks and adherence to COVID-19 health protocols in the island’s tourism sector.

#MaskOnTobago encourages the public to unite to create a safer Tobago for residents, hospitality staff and visitors, and show how they’re doing it by sharing photos via social media. Some examples of content encouraged by the TTAL includes photos of tourism workers wearing masks and PPE, visitors enjoying Tobago while following government regulations, and any other measures that industry stakeholders have taken to make their businesses and services as COVID-19 safe as possible.

The contest was launched on April 02, 2021 via Tobago’s official destination pages on Instagram, Facebook, and Twitter, and gives entrants the chance to win local hotel stays and other exclusive prizes until the end date of April 28, 2021. Entries will be eligible for weekly draws as well as two Grand Prize draws.

This latest engagement strategy by TTAL builds upon the ongoing success of the World Travel and Tourism Council (WTTC) “Safe Travels” stamp initiative on the island, implemented by the Tobago Tourism Agency in June 2020. Tobago was the third destination in the Caribbean to be named a “Safe Travels” destination by the WTTC, and has since seen more than 100 tourism businesses embrace the guidelines outlined in TTAL’s Health and Safety Manual for post COVID-19 , and earn the “Safe Travels” stamp of approval for their operations.

TTAL’s Marketing Coordinator Ms. Sheena Des Vignes stated:

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For more information about the Tobago Tourism Agency Limited’s ongoing #MaskOnTobago contest, visit the website www.tobagobeyond.com/maskon

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Barely a day into my visit to Tobago I found myself on horseback in the shallows of Buccoo Bay. I clung on, knowing my horse may wade in even further to swim, and that I would be expected to simply go with the flow. 

That was just another day in Tobago, a free-spirited Caribbean island with an uncanny habit for drawing you out of your comfort zone and into exhilarating escapades of adventure.

Why you should visit Tobago

There's a realness to Tobago that doesn't always feature in the Caribbean resort fantasy. The coves of pearly white sand, slouching palm trees and irresistible water are all there, but it's less manicured. The more built-up areas, like the capital Scarborough, are boisterous pockets of unfiltered life, while many inland villages are little more than clusters of half-finished buildings where untethered animals roam freely around their keepers. 

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Tobagonians wouldn't have it any other way. They've honed the art of not taking life too seriously, coolly devoting it to family and community, all generously seasoned with a mischievous sense of humour. These are the key ingredients to life here and, just like the local music genre soca, there's an inherently jovial rhythm to it all.

Pigeon Point is one of the island's most picture-perfect spots

What to do in Tobago

Sink into one of Tobago’s fine beaches and be entirely content. Buccoo Bay, Pigeon Point and Castara Bay are just a few of the most photogenic spots, but there are countless hidden gems waiting to be found, many virtually untouched by any flicker of civilisation. Pirate's Bay, on the northeast tip near Charlotteville, is every bit as secluded as it was in its more nefarious past. 

But it would be a crime to limit any experience of Tobago to beaches alone. When it's not submerged between the tides, No Man's Land is an uninhabited peninsula that attracts hordes of visitors twice a day. There are schools of brilliantly coloured parrotfish in the coral reefs that can be snorkelled just a few minutes out from this ribbon of sandy coastline. Somehow the water is knee-deep out by those reefs, so you can experience the phenomenon of standing in the middle of the Caribbean Sea.

Whether you prefer to paddleboard or snorkel, you can explore the coastline above and below water

Inland Tobago engulfs you in exotic plant and animal life, an experience that peaks on the island of Little Tobago . It's reserved exclusively for nature, particularly the many seabirds that flock balletically off its verdant coastline, and none more famously than the elegant red-billed tropicbird. It's a steep, sweaty ascent to the island's observation deck, but if David Attenborough deemed the airborne spectacle that awaits you worthy of his "Trials of Life" BBC series, you might too. 

The main island is just as fertile, with a soaring, rainforest-covered interior that feeds a vibrant ecosystem and climate. The Main Ridge Forest Reserve is a portal to the oldest protected rainforest on the planet, and home to a thriving colony of flora and fauna, many of which are endemic. 

A guided tour is an immersive introduction to the island's ecological lifeblood, especially when you discover the enchanting waterfalls hidden deep in the overgrowth. The water is far from cold at Parlatuvier Falls, but it offers welcome and well-earned refreshment after a day spent navigating the dense and unruly vegetation. 

Discover the island's exotic plant and animal life, such as the Trinidad motmot

Eating and drinking

Tobago's cuisine, with its roots in the Indian subcontinent, is anything but subtle. Flavour, spice, heat – all are cranked up to the max. Take the ubiquitous breakfast street food, doubles. These small flatbreads filled with curried chickpeas may look harmless but deliver a ferociously potent hit of deep, fruity, addictive heat that I'm still reminiscing about. 

Fish is both a staple and delicacy, the warm waters giving the island rich stocks of kingfish, lobster and red snapper. At the rustic Bird Watcher's Restaurant and Bar in Speyside, owner Mr Frank has been serving what many locals consider the island's finest lobster for over 20 years; I would consider it arguably the finest lobster I’ve eaten anywhere. The huge specimens are grilled simply with butter, lemon and garlic and are best eaten by hand in a ritual of shameless, messy silence, lubricated by a cleansing Carib beer. 

Tobago's exotic produce is the foundation of specialties found everywhere, like hearty coconut bake, fragrant crab and dumplings , and comforting breadfruit and stewed dasheen. Fresh coconut water, drank directly from the machete-hacked opening of the fruit, never gets boring. Even the menus of the more refined dining spots, like The Seahorse at Stonehaven Bay or the Brown Cow in Pigeon Point, never stray too far from Tobago's most classic dishes, even if their zingy, rum-spiked cocktails may be a notch more flamboyant.

Tobago's cuisine packs a punch – expect spice, flavour and heat

Where to stay in Tobago

For now, Tobago is one of the few Caribbean islands that isn't overrun by blingy, identikit hotel resorts. Perhaps the nearest things to that aren't hotels at all. 

Ohana Villa is a 12-person rental property of dramatic scale, elevated on the Scarborough coast. The opulent terrace has two infinity pools and the grandest rooms have four-poster beds, with showers inside and out, offering inspiring sea views. 

Sunsets are unrivalled, either from the house or the strip of quasi-private beach it comes with. The building's arrowing silhouette recalls period architecture from the Far East, while the interior has a luxe Polynesian finish. Together it's an extravagant wedding venue, bougie getaway or potential "Love Island" location.

Sunsets at Ohana Villa are 'unrivalled'

Castara Retreats is more like a hotel, just with fewer bad habits. Overlooking the ruggedly beautiful Castara Bay on the Caribbean coast, the complex of eco-lodges unfurls over the abundant hillside rainforest, like ivy over a castle's walls. Some of the self-catering cabins have terraces facing both the sea and the Main Ridge Forest Reserve and, if the weather turns, trust me – it's the kind of rainfall you'll enjoy being woken by.

The hotel's sustainability practices contribute to Tobago's growing reputation as an ecotourism hotspot. It is constantly fine-tuning its approach to hospitality, including its authentic restaurant, but it is already bringing its A-game to the wellness offering. Led by Judha, who conducts welcoming daily yoga classes and personalised massage therapies, it's a key reason why Castara Retreats can legitimately call itself a retreat.

Focus on wellness and relaxation at Castara Retreats

Rates at Ohana Villa start from £1,343 (USD$1,699) per day from May to October, and £1,580 (USD$1,999) during the high season. Rates at Castara Retreats start from £117 (USD$148) for a one-bedroom lodge during the main season, and £130 (USD$164) during high.    

Dominic was invited to visit Tobago by Four PR agency, working on behalf of the Tobago Tourism Agency (TTA). Castara Retreats hosted Dominic on a complimentary basis, while TTA sponsored experiences at Ohana Villa and other selected businesses in Tobago during his stay.

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Welcome to myTobago

The definitive visitor guide to Tobago

Tobago is a jewel in the Caribbean crown. This beautiful laid-back island lies just north of the South American coast and is best known for its wide sandy beaches and remarkable tropical rainforest.

This website is our tribute to Tobago. Written by visitors, for visitors, our goal is to tell you what the island has to offer, through the eyes and from the perspective of visitors. Devoid of marketing hype, myTobago offers nothing but frank and honest down-to-earth information and opinion. Our site offers detailed information on Tobago resorts, hotels, guest houses, self-catering apartments, rental villas, restaurants, car hire, sightseeing and activity providers and other tourism-related information.

Our Reader Satisfaction Ratings (RSR) icons offer a simple visual guide to every business and feature associated with vacations on the island. Our Tobago visitor forum enables holidaymakers to ask question, express opinion and join debate. Our overall aim is to steer you to the best of Tobago. We applaud those that provide good service and condemn those that don't. The reasoning is simple: if our site helps to enhances your vacation on Tobago, you are more likely to return and are more likely to recommend the island to others.

If you are considering a holiday in Tobago or intrigued by the island's ability to create Tobago fanatics like ourselves, then this website is a must for you.

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Tobago Holiday Accommodation

Looking for comfortable vacation accommodation in Castara? Perhaps you would prefer to stay in another rainforest-backed Caribbean fishing village? Or, is the more populated region of Tobago more to your taste? No worries, we have you covered.

Our site boasts the most complete listing of Tobago holiday accommodation available, with review and opinion of more than 400 resorts, hotels, inns, guesthouses, cottages and rental villas.

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Latest Reviews

Wow wow wow! We cannot recommend SHIRMA enough! We stayed with Shirma for 6 weeks during our medical elective and it was the best 6 weeks ever. Shirma and Clifford went above and beyond to make our stay the best it possibly could be and made us feel so comfortable and safe. When we arrived Clifford was waiting for us at the airport, he took us to...

Caileigh Oliver from U.K. stayed at Shirma's Apartment in July 2024 and rated the experience  

My family and I had an amazing time at the Blue Marlin Suite. The unit is fully equipped, very spacious, and kept in pristine condition. The pool is well laid out, and steps away from the beautiful beach. Liz, who over sees everything is fantastic! I highly recommend the Blue Marlin Suite...

Jose Franco from Trinidad stayed at Blue Marlin Suite in August 2024 and rated the experience  

My family stayed at the Chaconia suite for a one-week stay in Tobago. Liz met us on arrival and showed us around. This was an exceptional stay here. 1) location: quiet, right on the beach at Grafton, comfortable size pool on site. A few gorgeous sunsets. Need a car if you want to go out for bigger groceries but walkable to pleasant prospect and a...

Carla l from Canada stayed at Chaconia Suite in July 2024 and rated the experience  

If you want to live in Tobago with complete peace of mind, this is the place to be. Anything you could ever want from beautifully furnished apartments, delicious weekend home cooked food, hassle free tour bookings, transport to and from the airport are just some of the things offered by Shirma and Clifford. I thoroughly enjoyed my stay, felt safe...

Justin Ho from U.K. stayed at Shirma's Apartment in August 2024 and rated the experience  

We enjoyed our stay at Mahogany Villa to the fullest. Liz was so welcoming and informative and kept in contact every step of the way. The Villa was clean and comfortable and fully equipped with everything you could need during your stay. The villa is exactly as pictured. Quiet surroundings and relaxing scenery. It is perfect if you are looking...

Jenelle Clarke from Trinidad stayed at Mahogany Villa in August 2024 and rated the experience  

I stayed with Shirma for a month during my medical elective and I couldn't recommend her more highly. Her and Clifford were absolutely fantastic! I came to Tobago by myself so I was nervous before I got there, but Clifford was waiting for me at the airport and my nerves went instantly. Shirma completely looks after you and any problem or...

Imogen La Chapelle from U.K. stayed at Shirma's Apartment in August 2024 and rated the experience  

My friends and I stayed at this lovely apartment for 4 nights in July 2024. The stay was lovely. The apartment was well fitted with everything we need. The hosts were kind and very hospitable. We definitely will revisit again soon. The place will be recommended to anyone we come across.

Rebekah Kistow- Davis from Trinidad stayed at Shirma's Apartment in July 2024 and rated the experience  

Myself and my partner visited Tobago for our medical elective in July 2024 and we couldn’t recommend Shircliff’s Place enough. From the very second we arrived we were made feel so welcome and comfortable. Everything was taken care of, from airport transfers to weekly trips to the grocery store. Shirma also was so helpful in organising...

Ruth & Lewis from U.K. stayed at Shirma's Apartment in July 2024 and rated the experience  

Shirma we already miss you! We enjoyed a 4 week stay at ShirCliff’s place over our medical elective at Scarborough General Hospital. We cannot emphasise enough how incredible our time here has been. Shirma and Clifford made our stay; if you elective in Tobago and don’t stay at Shirma’s you’ve done it wrong!

Lottie, Jess and Erin from U.K. stayed at Shirma's Apartment in July 2024 and rated the experience  

I stayed at Shirma’s for 4 weeks during my medical elective and thoroughly enjoyed my stay. The apartment was clean, spacious and well looked after. Shirma was a wonderful host and made my stay so much easier by organising transport to the hospital each day, food shopping each week and having contacts with trusted tour guides and taxi...

Gloria from U.K. stayed at Shirma's Apartment in May 2024 and rated the experience  

Tobago tourism – what would BC say?

The recent reports of two dolphins beached on Store Bay in Tobago might be a metaphor for the state of Tobago’s tourism industry, and the efforts of bathers to steer the beautiful but confused creatures back out to sea could be an extended metaphor.

I spent a sun-kissed pre-Carnival week with my son and his young family in Tobago, just missing the rescue mission. People complain about the ferry service and the airbridge between Trinidad and Tobago, but that all worked as it should, coming and going, even though the odds seemed stacked against us.

When our overworked car battery decided to take a rest just as the call came at 6 am to drive onto the ferry in Port of Spain, the very helpful port aides got us jumpstarted and oversaw our F1-style circuits of the then-empty car park as we tried to recharge the battery cells. They ensured at the Scarborough end that we got to the car early and started up so as not to cause any delay once real disembarkation began. The system for boarding the cars was impressive. The port hands, though, could not prevent or help our violent seasickness.

We arrived at our hotel at about 10 am. The gold-coloured 1970s Rolls Royce parked, it turned out to be permanently, outside the entrance lobby was a standard-setter. The hotel was voted the top Caribbean hotel twice in the last few years, yet it felt like a three-star venue. Nothing wrong with that, but not at the prices we paid. The exquisite view straight down to the aquamarine water of the small private bay was the stuff of dreams, but one soon realised that it was not a perfect paradise. The floors were in need of care and the water cooler caused constant water-soaked tiles just adjacent to the reception.

The hotel could not let us check in early despite the adults still feeling queasy and a seven-month-old being grizzly. We had to wait till 3 pm. We packed nearly a carload of baby gear and suitcases into an office, not an official storage area, and headed for the enticing beach bar/restaurant. We settled into a corner, under a very slow fan, with the vast rest of necessary baby gear, overlooking the calm water, perfect for keeping young holiday-makers safe and parents free from worry. Carib and Stag on the go and just as we were about to order food a waitress increased the volume of the nearby speaker and all conversation had to cease. We had been enjoying the low-volume Kitchener strains emanating, putting us into the mood.

I asked the waitress to turn down the volume so we could converse. She replied that they regularly get complaints from guests on the beach who cannot hear the music, and if we did not like it we should move. We did, with no offer of help or apologies.

I checked the beach and noted three over-middle-age, foreign couples lounging under the long line of balmy coconut trees, all quietly reading books. We carted all the stuff down to the other end of the bar, where we had a tasteless lunch. I am happy to say that over the next four days the cuisine improved noticeably.

An elderly couple who had joined us in the restaurant also complained about the noise that destroyed the serenity of the bay. They were not Trinis, though, so they prevailed. It was the explanation given to me by a fellow hotel guest one morning at breakfast. The US-based Trini had spent US$4,000 on a special holiday for her husband’s big birthday and they were deeply unhappy with their leaky room and their treatment by staff.

Everywhere, the hotel showed signs of not having recovered from pandemic closure mode – collapsing woodwork, worn-out floors, over 50 per cent of ceiling fans inoperable, rationed towels, no car-park lighting, and a garden view that was a mini-forest view. My request for the lawn to be mowed and the hedges cut was quickly met. Happily, overall, the service was equally obliging and cheerful.

I kept thinking what dearly departed BC would have made of it all. I guessed he might have referenced Fawlty Towers, the hilarious 1970s BBC-TV sitcom, starring John Cleese as an inept, guest-hating hotelier, and made a few pithy observations about the “firetrucking” hotel being only half full until the Carnival Saturday and the significance of Tobago having a whopping 500 per cent increase in business over just one weekend.

Why cash is king in Trinidad and Tobago

Landlord found dead in cunupia, man gunned down in barataria, girl, 13, attacked, stabbed in endeavour, i love tobago sign to be relocated, hinds: camouflage 'sin shorts' not against the law, young: national energy making good progress in guyana, suriname, japan, trinidad and tobago celebrate 60 years of friendship with new song, "tobago tourism – what would bc say", more in this section, short-changing education, nobody sees us, why we dread independence day.

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An elongated oval just 41km by 14km, Tobago manages a surprising diversity within her craggy coastal fringes. Rich in natural allure, from deserted palm-lined beaches and lively coral reefs to a wealth of lush rainforest, and with plenty of tourist infrastructure in its southwest corner, the island offers something for every taste. Tobago’s greatest appeal, however, is its relatively unspoilt feel. Although tourism has definitely taken root here, development has so far been fairly low-key when compared with many other Caribbean islands. There are few all-inclusive resorts and none of the high-rise hotels that have blighted many other tropical paradises – and the hustler mentality that exists on more touristy islands is less intense here.

Charlotteville

Crime and safety in tobago, getting around, organized tours, scuba diving, tobago festivals.

A place where locals and tourists tend to co-exist in an easy equilibrium, with everyone frequenting the same beaches, bars and nightclubs, Tobago’s overall vibe is overwhelmingly laidback and relaxing. Moreover, celebrations such as the Easter goat races are attended by more Tobagonians than tourists, and local culture is honoured at the annual Heritage Festival each August. The uniquely friendly mentality here is best expressed at the year-round Harvest Festivals, where entire villages open their doors to passing revellers.

Tobago is breathtakingly beautiful; heavy industry is confined to Trinidad, so the beaches here are clean and the landscape left largely to its own devices. The flat coral and limestone plateau of the southwest tip is the island’s most heavily developed region, with the majority of hotels, bars and restaurants as well as the best – albeit most commercialized – beaches such as Pigeon Point and Store Bay . There are also quieter stretches of sand along the area’s smart hotel coast, where glass-bottom boats head for Buccoo Reef , palms sway over the Mount Irvine golf course, and hotels around Plymouth run night excursions to watch giant turtles laying eggs on the beach. Strong currents in this area provide some excellent surfing possibilities, with the rough seas between November and February (the height of the tourist season) producing big breakers at Mount Irvine Beach.

But Tobago isn’t just sun, sand, surf and the tourist dollar. The commercial clamour of the southwest tip is kept in check by the capital, Scarborough , a lively, picturesque port town tumbling down a fort-topped hillside. Pummelled by the dark-green, wave-whipped Atlantic, the island’s rugged windward (south) coast is lined with appealing fishing villages; Speyside and Charlotteville in the remote eastern reaches have coral reefs as ornate as you’ll find anywhere in the Caribbean and scuba diving is a burgeoning industry. Tobago is an excellent and inexpensive place to learn to dive, and there’s plenty of challenging drift diving for the more experienced, while the many fringing reefs within swimming distance of the beaches make for fantastic snorkelling. Coral sands and glassy Caribbean waters along the leeward (north) coast provide some of Tobago’s finest beaches; some, like Englishman’s Bay , are regularly deserted, while at Parlatuvier and Bloody Bay , you’ll share the sand with local fishermen. Castara , meanwhile, holds the only real tourist infrastructure along Tobago’s Caribbean coast, with a host of guesthouses and places to enjoy the excellent fresh fish meals.

The landscape of the eastern interior rises steeply into the hillocks and rolling bluffs which make up the central Main Ridge. These mountains shelter the Forest Reserve – the oldest protected rainforest in the western hemisphere – an abundant tangle of mist-shrouded greenery dripping down to fabulous coastlines, often with neither building nor road to interrupt the flow. Ornithologists and naturalists flock in for the bird – and animal life that flourishes here; David Attenborough filmed parts of his celebrated Trials of Life series at Little Tobago, a solitary sea-bird sanctuary off the coast of Speyside. For slightly less committed nature-lovers, the island’s forested interior offers plenty of opportunities for birdwatching or a splash in the icy waterfalls.

Brief history

Tobago has long been a hotly contested property. The original Carib population fiercely defended the paradisiacal island that they called Tavaco (the name is derived from the Indian word for tobacco) against other Amerindian tribes, and thwarted European colonization throughout the late 1500s and early 1600s. English sailors staked Britain’s claim in 1580, tacking a flag to a tree trunk during a water stop en route to Brazil; and in 1641, England’s King Charles I presented Tobago to his godson James, the Duke of Courland (in modern Latvia). A group of Latvians arrived a year later, but their settlement at Plymouth suffered constant attacks from the Caribs, and in 1658 was taken by the Dutch, who called it Nieuw Vlissingen. Twenty years later, the Courlanders left for good, and in the following years, the Amerindian population slowly petered out. Meanwhile, the belligerent shenanigans of the Dutch, English and French turned the coasts of Tobago into a war zone , with the island changing hands 31 times before 1814.

Pirates and plantations

During the eighteenth century, forts sprang up at every vantage point, and Tobago descended into turmoil, plundered by pirates and officially declared a no-man’s-land in 1702. In 1762, however, the British took decisive action and sent a powerful fleet to Tobago, taking possession of the island with swift precision. Sustained by the promise of stability that came with firm British control, plantation culture began in earnest, with the island transformed into a highly efficient sugar, cotton and indigo factory. Africans were shipped in to work as slaves , with around 3000 toiling on the plantations by 1772, under the control of less than three hundred Europeans. The economy flourished and, by 1777, the island’s eighty or so estates had exported 1.5 million pounds of cotton, as well as vast quantities of rum, indigo and sugar. The numerical might of the slave population led to many bloody uprisings , with planters doling out amputations and death by burning and hanging to the rebels.

Emancipation and beyond

Once the Act of Emancipation was passed in 1834, most of Tobago’s African population took to the interior to plant small-scale farms, and also established coastal fishing communities. Some continued to work the estates as free men and women, but when Britain removed its protective tariffs on sugar sales, Tobago’s unmechanized industry was unable to compete with other, more efficient producers. A severe hurricane in 1847, along with the collapse of the West India Bank (which underwrote the plantations), marked the beginning of the end for the island’s sugar estates.

In the aftermath of the Belmanna Riots , Tobago’s Legislative Council relinquished its tenuous rule, and the island became a Crown Colony in 1879. Having reaped all it could from the island and its sugar industry, England had little further need for this troublesome, ailing dependency. In 1899, Tobago was made a ward of Trinidad, effectively becoming the bigger island’s poor relation with little control over her own destiny. With the collapse of the sugar industry , the islanders fell back upon other crops, planting the acres of limes, coconuts and cocoa that still remain in patches today. Boosted by the arrival of free Africans in the mid-1800s, the black population clubbed together to farm the land, tending their food crops in the efficient “ Len-Hand ” system of shared labour that is still celebrated during Harvest Festivals. By the early 1900s Tobago was exporting fruit and vegetables to Trinidad, and was granted a single seat on the legislative council in 1927.

Tobago today

In 1963, Hurricane Flora razed whole villages and laid waste to most of the island’s crops; the ensuing restructuring programme saw the first tentative steps towards developing a tourist industry. By 1980, the island had her sovereignty partially restored when the Tobago House of Assembly (THA) was reconvened, but it had authority only over the island’s more mundane affairs while the main decisions were still made in Trinidad. Although Tobago now has a stronger profile in the republic’s affairs, the island is still perceived to be looked down on by bigger Trinidad, much to the resentment of the local populace.

In terms of economy, tourism remains the island’s main earner, and development projects abound, many slated for some of the island’s most pristine and lovely stretches of coast. It remains to be seen whether all this construction will erode the very things that attract tourists to Tobago in the first place.

Tumbling willy-nilly down a hillside to a horseshoe bay of calm Caribbean waters, where frigate birds swoop over the fishing boats, the absurdly pretty CHARLOTTEVILLE looks its very best as you approach the village on the Windward Road. Snugly situated under the protective cover of Man O’ War Bay , Charlotteville is one of Tobago’s foremost fishing communities – more than sixty percent of the island’s total catch is brought in by local fishermen. Bordered on each side by steep forested hills, the village has an isolated feel, although this is in fact one of Tobago’s biggest communities with around 5000 inhabitants. It is also one of its oldest, first settled by Caribs and then by the Dutch in 1633 – for many years the bay was known as Jan De Moor Bay after an early Frisian occupant. During the plantation era, the area was divided into two successful estates, Pirate’s Bay and Charlotteville; sugar shipments made regular departures from the bay, and the village prospered. In 1865, both estates were purchased by the Turpin family, who still own much of the surrounding land. Today, tourism plays its part – albeit as second fiddle to fishing – in sustaining the local economy, and the village is increasingly popular with independent types who come for the quiet beaches and laidback charm. If you’re seeking peace, quiet and great beaches, it’s hard not to become utterly besotted with Charlotteville.

The hole-in-the-wall shops and sprinkling of restaurants that make up Charlotteville’s centre line the road along the beach, while the streets that stretch inland and uphill, spreading back from a central playing field, are mostly residential. Slap in the centre of the village is the Fishermen’s Co-Operative , where the day’s catch is weighed, scaled and sold (and in the midst of an upgrade at the time of writing); adjacent to it is the proposed site for the controversial new Charlotteville Beachfront Mall . Beyond the site, the bay view opens up, the sea wall dotted with benches and the beach mostly taken up with fishing boats and nets drying on the sand. The long concrete pier offers a lovely perspective back over the village, and is a great spot from which to watch the sun set.

Bustin’ the bamboo

In Charlotteville and other rural Tobago communities, music at open-air celebrations and Christmas/Old Year’s festivities is often given an ear-splitting percussive accompaniment. Loved by small boys for the incredibly loud, cannon-like explosion that’s produced, the tradition of “ bustin’ the bamboo ” remains a popular – if rather dangerous – sport. To achieve the desired earth-shaking report, the prospective buster must have the know-how to first select a piece of bamboo of the correct age and durability with at least four or five internal joints, and then cut the section so that joints seal each end. A hole is pierced at one end, and the bamboo is filled with pitch oil (kerosene) from a slit at the opposite end. The fuel is lit and fanned until it heats up sufficiently to blow out the remaining joints, which creates the resounding boom and often results in the loss of eyelashes and moustaches.

Pirate’s Bay

Charlotteville’s main street veers away from the coast at the eastern end of the village, but a dirt track continues along the shoreline to the town’s – and, for many, Tobago’s – most attractive beach, Pirate’s Bay . After walking for about fifteen minutes along the steep track you’ll come to a long concrete stairway, at the bottom of which you’re rewarded with a stunning horseshoe of calm emerald-green water and fine yellow sand, with a backdrop of trees, ferns and foliage. A tumbledown fisherman’s hut is the only building in sight, and there’s even a freshwater rinse, courtesy of a stream trickling down from the hills. The bay’s translucent waters offer fantastic snorkelling , especially on the left-hand side. The seventeenth-century buccaneers after whom it was named may have gone, but the bay still has its freebooters, a large colony of frigate birds , which feed by snatching recently caught fish from the beaks of smaller sea birds. These, and other birds such as terns and pelicans can be found at St Giles Island a few kilometres to the north, but strong currents make it difficult for small boats – and thus birdwatchers – to get there. If the walk (or the stairs) are too much for you, you can usually arrange for one of the village’s fishermen to drop you at the beach and pick you up. Though the track is partially driveable, it’s best to leave your car in town – the only place to park is also the only turning spot, so leaving your vehicle there means anyone else will have to reverse back down the hill.

There was a time when crime of any sort was virtually unheard of in Tobago, but several high-profile robberies and attacks in recent years have tarnished the island’s reputation as a safe haven in the Caribbean. Most of the victims have been expat residents rather than people on holiday, and many put these crimes down to disputes and simmering tensions between the newcomers and their local neighbours rather than opportunism. Nonetheless, it has to be said that crime statistics have risen here in recent years, and while some Tobagonians still leave their front doors unlocked and their parked cars open, visitors are well advised to take the common-sense precautions to avoid potential problems.

Another main concern of late has been break-ins at villas , whose often-idyllic locations – in the middle of nowhere with only the birds for company – are irresistible to tourists and criminals alike. If you do stay in a villa, bear in mind that those clustered together in a resort-style complex, complete with gates and security guards, are obviously the safest choice. Always ask about security measures such as outside lighting and window locks or grilles before renting, and make sure that you lock doors and windows securely before going out and when retiring for the night. Should the worst happen, don’t offer any kind of resistance to thieves; and call the police on t 999 as soon as possible; in addition, there are police stations at Scarborough ( t 639 2512), Crown Point ( t 639 0042 or t 639 9872), Old Grange ( t 639 8888), Moriah ( t 660 0029 or t 660 0100), Roxborough ( t 660 4333) and Charlotteville ( t 660 4388).

Given Tobago’s small size, public transport can be a useful option for short journeys, particularly in the southwest, with plenty of route taxis, maxis (with blue bands in Tobago) and buses plying the main roads. In remote corners of Tobago, and on Sundays throughout the island, waiting times can be long. All public transport to outlying spots such as Castara, Charlotteville or Speyside departs from Scarborough; bear in mind that it’s best to get an early start, since many of the services to outlying towns and villages leave early in the morning, with a significant lull during the middle part of the day. Renting a car is by far the easiest way to explore the island, even if you just rent one for a day for a round-Tobago whirlwind trip.

Easter weekend is to Tobago what Carnival is to Trinidad: an unofficial national holiday when hotels are filled to the brim and the island erupts with festivities. A succession of huge open-air parties and well-attended harvest feasts culminate on Easter Tuesday at the Buccoo goat races , a tradition since 1925. Though attempting to race one of the world’s most belligerent animals may seem a little ridiculous to the uninitiated, these tournaments are taken very seriously by aficionados, who study the form (and character) of the sleekly groomed animals and place bets on their favourites. Raised separately from the run-of-the-mill roadside grazer, racing goats undergo a rigorous training routine and return to the tracks year after year. Prize specimens live out their days as stud goats to breed more potential champions.

The preliminary round at the Mount Pleasant Family Fun Day on Easter Monday gives everyone a chance to see which goat is running best, but the main event is at Buccoo on the Tuesday. Food vendors and craft stalls line the streets and a carnival atmosphere builds as fast as the crowds, who are kept entertained by dancing and drumming in between stakes. Smartly attired in white shorts and coloured vests, the jockeys limber up by the side of the tracks, a necessary exercise, as their ability to keep up with their goat (and keep hold of it) over the 150m race has more influence on their success or failure than the capabilities of the goat itself: animals are raced at the end of a rope, and kept on course via taps from a long switch. Once the jockeys manage to manoeuvre their malignant charges into starting position, the actual races are a joy to watch. With wild-eyed stares, the goats tear haphazardly down the track, often taking a diagonal course that trips up competitors and runners alike, to the delight of the spectators. The best of the bunch battle for supremacy in the final “Champ of Champs” race, while “Champion Jockey”, “Champion Trainer” and “Most Outstanding Goat” prizes are also presented.

Once all the races are over on Tuesday, the final all-night party swings into action, and the dancing continues until dawn.

Tobago has a bewildering number of tour companies and guides , with options ranging from the highly qualified and experienced to the downright charlatan (note that certified guides have an ID badge issued by the Tobago House of Assembly). It’s worth spending time considering the options before parting with your cash. Several established companies offer standard island tours covering Tobago’s main sights, which are great if you want a hassle-free overview of the island. A boat ride is one of the best ways to appreciate Tobago’s gorgeous coastline and get some excellent snorkelling. Several operators work the waters, and trips usually include lunch, snorkelling at Englishman’s Bay or other similarly deserted coves, and an open bar; half-day, or sunset and moonlight dinner trips are also on the roster of most operators.

Full-day tours (land or sea) of eight hours or so almost always include lunch and cost US$70–90 per person; half-day tours hover at around US$50 for four to five hours. Most people book through reps who visit the main hotels or trawl the beaches, but you can sign up independently as well. Note that the prices given here are for adults; all companies offer reduced rates for children.

There are also several guides who specialize in the Forest Reserve , and who are usually to be found at the main entrance, Gilpin Trace. Glass-bottom boats to Buccoo Reef are one of the most popular tour options on Tobago; all leave from Store Bay. Other more active tour options include fishing , mountain biking , golf , horseriding and scuba diving .

Tobago is one of the best scuba-diving spots in the southeastern Caribbean, yet it has relatively few divers visiting its dazzling coral reefs, volcanic formations and marine wrecks. The island is internationally recognized for the exciting and challenging drift dives caused by the Guyana current, which results from the confluence of the Caribbean Sea and the Atlantic Ocean. The seas around Tobago are home to 300 species of South Atlantic coral and a variety of spectacular multicoloured fish , not to mention larger species such as stingrays, manta rays, sharks, dolphins, turtles and squid . Rarer species such as toadfish and shortnose batfish are also occasionally spotted. Adding a touch of history to underwater encounters are the sunken ships that litter the sea floor.

There are many dive shops in Crown Point thanks to the sheer volume of visitors in the southwest, but Speyside is the island’s premier diving destination, with a variety of spectacular sites surrounding the offshore islands: Goat Island is popular for drift dives; St Giles for its rocky pinnacles and underwater canyon; and there’s a reasonable chance of seeing manta rays on dives around Little Tobago. Popular dive sites in the area include London Bridge, Bookends, Angel Reef, The Cathedral and Kelliston Drain – the site of the single largest brain coral in the Caribbean, and possibly the largest in the world. For more advanced divers, Sisters Rocks, offshore of Bloody Bay – with the sea shelf falling to 667m – is especially popular for larger species of fish including hammerhead sharks.

Tobago’s diving industry was only established in the 1980s but since then scuba-diving operations have multiplied with many hotels, beaches and guesthouses sporting their own centres. Prices vary slightly between operators; in general one to three dives cost about US$50 each, half-day resort courses US$65, five-day PADI open water certification courses US$480 and advanced open water from US$385. When deciding who to dive with it’s worth contacting the Association of Tobago Dive Operators ( t 660 5445, w tobagoscubadiving.com ); they can provide a list of certified scuba-diving operators. Always check for the prominent display of a dive affiliation, such as NAUI, PADI, SSI or BSAC. A good operator will always ask you to fill in paperwork and present a diving certification card. The rental equipment should be well rinsed; if you see sand or salt crystals this may indicate careless equipment care. Inspect all equipment thoroughly, check hoses for wear, see that mouthpieces are secure and ensure they give you a depth gauge and air-pressure gauge. Listen for air leaks when you gear up and smell the air, which should be odourless. If you smell oil or anything else, search for a different operator. In case of accidents, Tobago has a recompression chamber in Roxborough ( t 660 4000).

Though Carnival in Trinidad tends to take precedence in the T&T festival calendar, Tobago more than holds its own in terms of celebrations, and even if your visit doesn’t coincide with some of the bigger events, there’s almost always a beach party or fete to liven things up. Of the annual festivals, August means Great Race , when a flotilla of high-powered speedboats compete to be the first to cross the waters between the two islands. This being T&T, there’s more concentration on partying than maritime action: the whole shebang kicks off with the massive Great Fete outdoor party and stageshow at Pigeon Point, and on race day itself, huge crowds gather at the Store Bay finish line, all the while entertained by blaring soca, rhythm sections, pan bands and copious quantities of rum and beer. A similar scene unravels at the annual round of fishermen’s festivals , which celebrate patron of the trade St Peter by way of friendly beach parties at Castara and Charlotteville: vats of pacro water (shellfish soup) simmer and stacks of speakers get everyone in the mood for dancing. For something gentler, you might check out the Harvest Festivals held in the island’s villages throughout the year, which feature folk singing and dancing, heaps of “blue food” such as dasheen and tannia, and a friendly, community vibe. But the most hyped event on the island these days is the Tobago Jazz Festival , held between April and June by the sea at Plymouth and featuring international acts alongside the best of local talent – past performers include Diana Ross, Elton John, Sting, Emile Sandé, Erykah Badu, John Legend and, of course, T&T’s own Machel Montano.

Discover more places in Trinidad and Tobago

• Crown Point and around
• The leeward coast
• The northwest coast
• Scarborough
• The windward coast

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written by Andy Turner

updated 26.04.2021

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Go Experience

Indulge in a truly authentic Caribbean escape where the wild and untamed beauty of nature is rivaled only by the genuine warmth and hospitality of its people.

Explore the extraordinary in Tobago.

Everything Tobago

Sea & Beaches

Live your best island life as you sample the calm turquoise waters of Tobago’s idyllic beaches. Go completely off the grid on a secluded stretch of coastline, where your footprints are likely to be the only ones you’ll see; or dive into the heart of the action with adrenaline pumping water sports at a beach.

Whether you’re soaking up the sun, soaking in the surf, or seeking gorgeous sunsets, there’s a strip of sand that’s just right for you

Eco Adventure & Nature

Awaken your wild side as you venture off the beaten path to explore Tobago’s lush, natural beauty. Immerse yourself in the flora and fauna of the oldest protected rainforest in the Western Hemisphere; go deep and allow your inner-adventurer to explore the colourful marine life of the island’s vibrant reefs, and indulge your senses with a therapeutic waterfall massage courtesy Mother Nature.

Discover why Tobago truly is nirvana for all naturalists

Romance & Weddings

Whether you dream of a barefoot ceremony on a deserted beach, tying the knot beneath the dramatically beautiful rainforest canopy, or simply want to find a naturally serene spot to unwind together, Tobago delivers the ideal backdrop.

Local Culture, People & Heritage

Discover the authenticity of Tobago’s thriving culture. Infuse your vacation with local flavor and acquaint yourself with Tobago’s vibrant and well-preserved heritage.

Treat your tastebuds to delectable signature dishes like curried crab and dumplings; learn to move to the soulful beats of the steelpan, and connect with Tobagonians on a personal level to uncover the true essence of the island’s allure.

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